theres companies that dip, or build two tanks that the car fits in and fill one with white vinegar(acid) and one with baking soda (alkalize), and alternate dips, be done in a few weeks much easier after you build tanks. let the chemical process do all that work !!
I personally am not a fan of full acid dips. First is just the cost factor and I feel it leaves a lot of exposed metal in-between every panel. If you watch ahead on this car as we torn more of it apart I did my own controlled version of an acid dip to remove/ neutralize the rust and treat it from there. Thanks for the feedback.
I just ran across your channel talkin about this challenger. I have located a few six-cylinder challengers and I'm looking for 1 to build. I'll be looking for parts. You have any leads you want to pass on? Builder car or parts? My now I'm assuming you're done with this car. I'll be looking at your series on it. Maybe I could reciprocate with some parts leads. I've got one in mind we may be able to get that frame rail.
I don't have too many leads on guys wanting to get rid of Challengers, most of them are all looking the same as you to build them. This car is not quite done as waiting for the owner to acquire a few other key parts for the build but it is getting close to completion soon and will update on a video when we finish the next major repair.
Honestly your channel is a hidden gem on youtube. More users should be subscribed. It is very interesting how you describe the work and the quality of the workmanship is admirable. Hopefully more people discover them soon, you deserve it.
@@carthageclassiccars you should get bigger than gravyard cars..he jokes too much,,makes too much.$$$...im in aus. i importd a 73 chall clone, 340 r/t sublime. because it wasnt the original color, met green,,it sat in shed far 12 yrs.has to be 100% original,,stoopid laws,.i just collected parts, re built parts. drove it illegaly. your fuel is sht loads better than ours, had half tank when i got it, went real well. i have a 71 grill for it. paid 150 for it, back when things were better..keep up the work, we need people like you, honest, doing a proper job. that said, if its just a driver, id say fix the rust, make it clean, but, with all the bog, its the right thing to do. i also have 4 u.s trucks..just live in the wrong country..
@@harrywalker5836 Thanks again and sounds like a really cool car, I imagine between that and the trucks they draw even more attention down there. Keep hot rodding and enjoying them!!!
@@carthageclassiccars Hi great channel. I have a 72 Plymouth Duster that I parked, but still started it up every now and then. I haven't for the past 6 years though. Could I write to you and ask you some questions?
I have a 73 dodge challenger. I need the same work done as you are doing here. How do we communicate? I am, not ready at this moment. I am collecting data and costs I want to install Mopar Handling Full-Vehicle Suspension Kits and Replace quarter panels. Floor pans front and rear
Thanks for what I consider the best instructional video I’ve seen yet. My question is about why you used the ospho before the sandblaster? Wouldn’t you still need to use ospho after the blasting?
Thanks a lot for the kind words. I have a video on this channel where I go in depth into the Ospho but short answer I think it actually is worse to use Ospho on blasted surfaces. Primers/paints need one of two things to adhere to metal, a mechanical grip or chemical grip. The sandblasting already provides a mechanical grip or tooth from the textured surface. Ospho provides a chemical grip almost like where the paint would say you can top coat in 72 hours but after that the paint loses its chemical grip and needs to be scuffed per the Technical data sheet. (mechanical) The downside to Ospho is the PH is too acid and can lead to paint not adhering. I use Lacquer thinner to neutralize this PH but with how rough a blasted surface is I feel you could have OSPHO stuck in the pits and actually make it worse. My opinion is sandblast and prime in 24 hours don't touch the bare metal with bare hands and the surface is already to go.
Thank you. I don't have an good or bad opinion on that yet as I haven't used it. I personally like to stick with the separate parts in most instances as they give me more flexibility and adjustability before welding to really dial in these cars.
I actually had the conversation with the owner of this car a few days ago. I was just curious and he said knowing what he does now being how nice his cars is with new parts, he wished he went that route and cloned a 70. If the 70 is your favorite style I think its the way to go. I think the 70 is the only one you can buy all the parts new. The 71 you would have to find I believe a donor upper grille support.
I just saw this comment, I am personally not a fan of chemical dipping a car. I feel when it strips the car it strips in the middle of everything you will never get protection again as you can't reach in all the cracks or between pieces.. This I feel will open the car up for rust issues down the road.
I'd like to communicate with you about possibly doing work on my car. How do we go about that? I live in Northern Virginia. I have a '70 Cuda I've had for 35 years. As you've mentioned, one never knows how rough a car is until its been stripped. That said, I know this car well, and I think my car is much more solid and needs far less work that this car, or the '71 Cuda you did a video series on. Needs quarter panel work...at least from the body line down, and outer wheel houses and drop down trunk floor extensions. Probably a trunk floor as well. That'd be the bulk of it. Like this car, mine is an original 318 car that is now a clone 440 6bbl car. Like you said, I'm looking to do a driver quality car that looks good at 10' away.
Awesome car brother il have to watch your build. I just drove 3000 miles to Texas and back to Utah and picked up a 73 Challenger R/T 340 4 speed car Got to get busy building it on my channel.
Thank you for what you're doing and what you're sharing. I love the changes in production efforts from the first group of videos. It looks like you will be done with your projects long before this commenter is done with his.
are you going to take the cereal numbers off the rad support and graft them back into the new one. Also the trunk drip rail has numbers on the drivers side
You are right it does have numbers however I am not going to do that on this one The reason I feel is we are not trying to hide anything here, the parts will be replaced and feel saying the whole front clip being new is a better selling point vs keeping the stock stampings here and there. I might have a different of opinion but to me I am a fan of just placing the new panel in place and adding the numbers to me is just extra work that in this situation I don't think it calls for. Saying that if the owner wanted to do it this would be a different conversation.
Hey great job on the car, a friend of mine runs a blasting shop he uses aluminum oxide in the blaster which doesn't get hot like sand or glass and Warp the sheet metal it always leaves the metal looking like fresh stampings.
@@carthageclassiccars I tried to wet blasting one time and I was sorry I did it made a mess of the car it was like trying to get mud dauber nest out of the cracks and seams you had to literally brush it out air would just blow right over it in the mud would stay in the cracks
@@mrpurcountry I agree with you! I think there is a time and place and have been looking at purchasing a wet blaster however I don't think you can really do a good job wet blasting unless the car has no quarters and roof honestly and you need to wash it well after with the rust inhabitator.
One of the best how to restoration channels on the internet. Only one way to do anything, "the correct way". Quick and easy is never the best way to do anything, well done.
The good thing about this car is I believe it was bought for $200 in the early 1980's as a wrecked car by the owner and he drove it for 15 plus years after getting it to the less rusted version of this.
Looking forward to seeing this project. Your skills are very impressive👍
Thank you
theres companies that dip, or build two tanks that the car fits in and fill one with white vinegar(acid) and one with baking soda (alkalize), and alternate dips, be done in a few weeks much easier after you build tanks. let the chemical process do all that work !!
I personally am not a fan of full acid dips. First is just the cost factor and I feel it leaves a lot of exposed metal in-between every panel. If you watch ahead on this car as we torn more of it apart I did my own controlled version of an acid dip to remove/ neutralize the rust and treat it from there. Thanks for the feedback.
Another one back from the dead !
Love your work and how you explain your plan for the care going forward
thank you
I just ran across your channel talkin about this challenger. I have located a few six-cylinder challengers and I'm looking for 1 to build. I'll be looking for parts. You have any leads you want to pass on? Builder car or parts? My now I'm assuming you're done with this car. I'll be looking at your series on it. Maybe I could reciprocate with some parts leads. I've got one in mind we may be able to get that frame rail.
I don't have too many leads on guys wanting to get rid of Challengers, most of them are all looking the same as you to build them. This car is not quite done as waiting for the owner to acquire a few other key parts for the build but it is getting close to completion soon and will update on a video when we finish the next major repair.
Honestly your channel is a hidden gem on youtube. More users should be subscribed. It is very interesting how you describe the work and the quality of the workmanship is admirable. Hopefully more people discover them soon, you deserve it.
Thank you so much that really means a lot to me!
@@carthageclassiccars you should get bigger than gravyard cars..he jokes too much,,makes too much.$$$...im in aus. i importd a 73 chall clone, 340 r/t sublime. because it wasnt the original color, met green,,it sat in shed far 12 yrs.has to be 100% original,,stoopid laws,.i just collected parts, re built parts. drove it illegaly. your fuel is sht loads better than ours, had half tank when i got it, went real well. i have a 71 grill for it. paid 150 for it, back when things were better..keep up the work, we need people like you, honest, doing a proper job. that said, if its just a driver, id say fix the rust, make it clean, but, with all the bog, its the right thing to do. i also have 4 u.s trucks..just live in the wrong country..
@@harrywalker5836 Thanks again and sounds like a really cool car, I imagine between that and the trucks they draw even more attention down there. Keep hot rodding and enjoying them!!!
@@carthageclassiccars
Hi great channel. I have a 72 Plymouth Duster that I parked, but still started it up every now and then. I haven't for the past 6 years though. Could I write to you and ask you some questions?
@@gm-lb9oe Yes send me an email to carthageclassiccars@gmail.com
I have a 73 dodge challenger. I need the same work done as you are doing here. How do we communicate? I am, not ready at this moment. I am collecting data and costs
I want to install Mopar Handling Full-Vehicle Suspension Kits and Replace quarter panels. Floor pans front and rear
Feel free to send me an email to carthageclassiccars@gmail.com and we can discuss offline, than you.
I have two 1973 cars. Not sure they are salvageable, but possible donor cars for parts. Let me know if anyone is interested
Nice they must be really far gone considering what can be saved now and days/
Thanks for what I consider the best instructional video I’ve seen yet. My question is about why you used the ospho before the sandblaster? Wouldn’t you still need to use ospho after the blasting?
Thanks a lot for the kind words. I have a video on this channel where I go in depth into the Ospho but short answer I think it actually is worse to use Ospho on blasted surfaces. Primers/paints need one of two things to adhere to metal, a mechanical grip or chemical grip. The sandblasting already provides a mechanical grip or tooth from the textured surface. Ospho provides a chemical grip almost like where the paint would say you can top coat in 72 hours but after that the paint loses its chemical grip and needs to be scuffed per the Technical data sheet. (mechanical) The downside to Ospho is the PH is too acid and can lead to paint not adhering. I use Lacquer thinner to neutralize this PH but with how rough a blasted surface is I feel you could have OSPHO stuck in the pits and actually make it worse. My opinion is sandblast and prime in 24 hours don't touch the bare metal with bare hands and the surface is already to go.
What do you think about the Dynacorn complete front frame rail inner fender set up they have. Like watching your videos 👍👍
Thank you. I don't have an good or bad opinion on that yet as I haven't used it. I personally like to stick with the separate parts in most instances as they give me more flexibility and adjustability before welding to really dial in these cars.
For the restoration you have planned for this car would $20,000 be too low or too high of a price tag?
20K would be way under what the parts would cost to properly restore this car.
Hey, what are your thoughts on replacing the grill/front end of the 72/3/4 to that of the 70 or 71? Just curious on your thoughts
I actually had the conversation with the owner of this car a few days ago. I was just curious and he said knowing what he does now being how nice his cars is with new parts, he wished he went that route and cloned a 70. If the 70 is your favorite style I think its the way to go. I think the 70 is the only one you can buy all the parts new. The 71 you would have to find I believe a donor upper grille support.
@@carthageclassiccars Thanks, I wonder why the front end style changed so drastically in 72..
@@applejuice9468 Looking back that is a good question I have no clue.
Maybe to cut costs, maybe to conceal the big gap between the bumper and the body.
That's a job and a half ! Looking forward to seeing you master this one .
Thanks, this one will be a fun project I think
What are your thoughts on chemical dipping a car? Have you ever used that method
I just saw this comment, I am personally not a fan of chemical dipping a car. I feel when it strips the car it strips in the middle of everything you will never get protection again as you can't reach in all the cracks or between pieces.. This I feel will open the car up for rust issues down the road.
I'd like to communicate with you about possibly doing work on my car. How do we go about that? I live in Northern Virginia. I have a '70 Cuda I've had for 35 years. As you've mentioned, one never knows how rough a car is until its been stripped. That said, I know this car well, and I think my car is much more solid and needs far less work that this car, or the '71 Cuda you did a video series on. Needs quarter panel work...at least from the body line down, and outer wheel houses and drop down trunk floor extensions. Probably a trunk floor as well. That'd be the bulk of it. Like this car, mine is an original 318 car that is now a clone 440 6bbl car. Like you said, I'm looking to do a driver quality car that looks good at 10' away.
Brian I got your email and sent you a reply, thanks.
Amigo Excelente proyecto!!!!!! Te ganaste un nuevo subscriptor Saludos desde Argentina
Awesome car brother il have to watch your build. I just drove 3000 miles to Texas and back to Utah and picked up a 73 Challenger R/T 340 4 speed car Got to get busy building it on my channel.
Thanks and that is really cool good luck on your build and channel its a labor of love thats for sure.
Good luck to you as well on your build. If you need any parts I know where lots of random Mopar stuff is kicking around utah.
@@KnowlesFamilyGarage sounds good thanks!
Thank you for what you're doing and what you're sharing. I love the changes in production efforts from the first group of videos. It looks like you will be done with your projects long before this commenter is done with his.
You are welcome and thank you for noticing the editing quality being a little better always trying to work on it to make it look more professional.
acid dips and alkaline dips to get all that rust off
There are many different ways to tackle the rust removal, usually with the way the car comes in will determine what route I usually go.
I'll be watching. Hope the owner chooses a 71 grill
I don't even know for sure yet, on some of these builds the direction changes half way through, but stay tuned. Thanks for watching!
Great content and explanation of plan of attack I also like the fact that your family is involved. look forward to next video
Thank you
good job man
Thanks
are you going to take the cereal numbers off the rad support and graft them back into the new one. Also the trunk drip rail has numbers on the drivers side
You are right it does have numbers however I am not going to do that on this one The reason I feel is we are not trying to hide anything here, the parts will be replaced and feel saying the whole front clip being new is a better selling point vs keeping the stock stampings here and there. I might have a different of opinion but to me I am a fan of just placing the new panel in place and adding the numbers to me is just extra work that in this situation I don't think it calls for. Saying that if the owner wanted to do it this would be a different conversation.
I really like your step-by-step process It's not overwhelming how you explain it
Thank you
Hey great job on the car, a friend of mine runs a blasting shop he uses aluminum oxide in the blaster which doesn't get hot like sand or glass and Warp the sheet metal it always leaves the metal looking like fresh stampings.
I will look into it I honestly haven't had too much luck with most blasters wet or dry but ill check it out thanks.
@@carthageclassiccars I tried to wet blasting one time and I was sorry I did it made a mess of the car it was like trying to get mud dauber nest out of the cracks and seams you had to literally brush it out air would just blow right over it in the mud would stay in the cracks
@@mrpurcountry I agree with you! I think there is a time and place and have been looking at purchasing a wet blaster however I don't think you can really do a good job wet blasting unless the car has no quarters and roof honestly and you need to wash it well after with the rust inhabitator.
One of the best how to restoration channels on the internet. Only one way to do anything, "the correct way". Quick and easy is never the best way to do anything, well done.
Thank you very much
Out of words, love the work y’all doing
Thank you very much!
Cool car, surprised the hood is still on it
Besides being full of bondo the owner made sure it was a complete car and didn't sell anything on it.
great videos - thanks.
You're welcome
The most important question is how much was paid for that shell?
The good thing about this car is I believe it was bought for $200 in the early 1980's as a wrecked car by the owner and he drove it for 15 plus years after getting it to the less rusted version of this.