I've been there brother. I was in the middle of building my current gravel bike and the handle bars swung around and dented my top tube. I completed the build and still ride it almost everyday. Every time I look down at the dent I get a little aggravated. We learn so much from our mistakes. That is how we grow. I have no doubt you will continue to do great things. You went above and beyond and it paid off. Amazing Job Bruce!!
Really nice job on the restoration of a great-looking vintage Miyata. Congratulations. I have a project right now with a similar stuck seat post situation on a 1970's bike that is being converted from a 10 speed into a single-speed. After attempting to loosen the seat post in various ways with no results in sight, I simply cleaned it up and left it at the height it was stuck at. With the seat I have installed, the seat post at the exact position for the rider ... lucky
haha that's awesome, and the result isn't much different than mine, because where the dent is in the seat tube, i have to run a very short seat post, so you really can't safely raise it up any more than it is now.
Thanks for,hanging in there and saving this bike. I have a soft spot for Miyata’s. As I watched your video it was like watching an experienced surgeon saving a life. A patient who was in a bad place and you got to work. Almost surgical. Battleship grey is a cool color. I want one but with a “pop” of neon to create depth.
thank you Mauricio! I was also considering going with a second color, but being I already had these blue wheels, I was afraid that adding anything might look a little over the top, or like it's trying too hard.
What a bummer with the seatpost and the dents. Great job fixing it again and pulling through! What a life lesson for us all to remember: Be patient... and always check the seatpost when buying a steel bike second hand! :)
Stellar video! Loved all the details, and insane commitment to the frame repair. Thanks for the crown race installation tool idea lol...better than my screwdriver technique
A few years back I bought a 1992 Miyata 914 that some old guy had powder coated a fad blue, put silver decals on it and clear coated over that and it was built up with Dura Ace 9 speed set up including the wheels. It was freaking awesome. I snagged it for $300. I kept and road the snot out of it for the last 9 years or so then took off all the Dura Ace bits and put tiagra stuff on it and sold it for $350.
You are a legend. You made a mistake of being in a hurry, I know that feeling all to well, and f'd a classic frame up that deserves better and then (legend status) you cowboyed up and gave it the love and set it back on its destiny.. Props and respect!!!! You are a Champion!!
Satisfying video to watch! Worth the time and frustration for the restoration! I have an '84 Miyata 1000 Grand Touring as well. Friggin' love that Cadillac of a bike!
Bruce very nice job. Like always I appreciate your "ingenuity" (who will forgot the brake adapter on your mtb to road bike conversion!) of doing stuff the way you think, even if you are mistaken I feel you have learned something, and it's a beautiful message to pass.
thanks a lot Michele! Knew you'd be here for a good comment! :) yes it was a learning lesson for sure, the dent mistake easily tripled the time to build this bike.
Love the trophy, I should have a few on my desk too. My experience with Shimano shift cables in Campy shifters is that the lead head on Shimano is just a little too big and can make it a booger to get out the next time. Thanks for the video.
Was a bit surprised when i first saw the different color at start of the video. But then after seeing what followed, it made sense. Good job fixing it. Also, pretty sure you're driving someone crazy with that drivetrain comprised of campy, shimano, sram, microshift, and others. I personally love it. Whatever works.
thank you Oscar! yes I was also considering how odd the mix of components are. But really it's just a combination of what I already had in the parts bin and what I could buy for a reasonable price. I should really do a price breakdown and post it in the description, I'm sure the question will come up anyway.
My friend, you are an artist! The bike was sensational, very beautiful indeed. I even think that you should have left your fork painted red. It would look even more beautiful. A big hug and until the next video.
@@BruceChastain Anytime! I retro-moded a few bikes last summer and donated them. If you are a bike-lover like me and you are, and love tinkering on them, there is nothing more satisfying than to take an old vintage steel-frame bike and bring it back to life with a fresh coat of paint and some new, updated components. Though the bikes may be moded-out in the final restoration, they never seem to loose their vintage character.
yes and this one really does still seem vintage to me, I think because I kept the downtube shifters and quill stem, it's not light and super fast, but rides so nice.
Great video! Who'd have thought that music (Eric Satie?) would go so well with a bike build? It makes me feel better that I'm not the only person who lost patience and made a costly mistake during a bike build. I guess you learn from those kind of mistakes though!
That was a great build you did I have a Miata it's a 1985 and it's a survivor it's almost mint and it's the favorite bike I have I like it better than my carbon road bike
thanks Brittany! Yes well the thing is, you have to be very careful because if they saw blade isn't perfectly parallel with the seat tube, then it can start actually cutting into the tube and not just the post, so it's very slow cutting and a lot of stopping and checking as you go.
I have had success getting a stuck seatpost out with liquid nitrogen and a heat gun. I do this first before attempting any other kind of removal such as a liquid penetrant or use of force. 1. Place the frame in a stand upside down, seatpost pointed down. Make sure that any holes to the inside of the post are plugged so that the liquid nitrogen does not run out. 2. Heat the seat tube gently with the heat gun. This will expand the seat tube metal. 3. Pour the liquid nitrogen down into the bottom bracket, and down into the seat tube. This will contract the seat post. The thermal difference between the post and seat tube will generally shock the seat post free, sometimes with a popping sound. However, I have a mallet ready to quickly knock the seat post out once I either hear the pop or I give it a few seconds to react. You don't have to really get the seat tube any hotter than a temperature that is uncomfortable for you to touch and hold. Anything hotter than this is just excessive due to the super cold nature of the liquid nitrogen. If done correctly, you won't damage the paint. If there are some nearby decals, those might be damaged.
quality build.So therapeutic watching someone build a bike.You certainly have some skills Bruce.Would you ever consider removing the left shifter boss for a cleaner look for a build like this one?
I have a univega nuovosport pretty much similar frame- looking into DIY painting the frame myself. I noticed you didnt completely remove the initial paint layer. How did you approach the paint job? Just simply sanding down to some extent then straight to spraying? I see other videos where people will bring the frame down to bare steel, does it make any difference? Thanks
I've painted a few frames now and my method that I think works best is this: 1. Sand down to where the surface of the existing paint is very thin or even the paint is gone. Don't worry about removing it totally, the original paint will actually sick better to the metal likely then what you'll apply. 2. I don't use primer, I use a 2 in one primer paint, and I've been fine like that. 3. Use the 2 part clear coat, do not use a regular single part, needs to be 2 part clear. And know that whatever you have before laying the clear down is what you're going to get in terms of the surface finish. The 2 part clear really just creates a glossy hard coating of whatever you already have. That's my cliff notes from doing a few frames.
Nice! A couple of questions... Wouldn't it be possible to pull out the dents in the top tube like on a car dent repair? Good idea with the 9 speed 1x9 - great with the link to the Microshift cassette - i'll be using that... but I prefer STI shifters instead of downtube shifters - do you know any STI shifters that work with the Sram derailleur?
Thanks Andreas! I did contact some people on suggestions for the dent, even posted on a frame builders facebook group, the suggestion is to first try to actually push it out with what's called frame blocks, which I did you can see at one point in the video. Then either use a metal filler or bondo to finish it. In terms of the STI and Sram, I might be wrong but I believe any will work as long as it matches the number of cogs on the cassette. This is because the distance that the derailleur moves is only dependent on the shifter, not actually the derailleur, I mean the distance of the increments. Hope that makes sense.
Love the bike and I love the colour too you got some skill wish I did could you build one with more gear like so 1x12 to see if it better than the 1x9 thanks
outstanding!! you sir have skill. i hope to get as deep as you do on a build.im looking at a few bikes that may be good candidates for a complete take down and restore
@@yylvib not sure, maybe stop in at some local bike shops, I wouldn't think that they would be able to take care of it, but they may know someone who can.
Great result! I presume the downtube shifters are not indexed? How do you like them with the nine speed cassette? My project idea was a 1x10 setup with downtube shifters, but it's near impossible to find compatible indexed shifters apparently and I've never tried pure friction shift so I'm unsure about that. Maybe bar end shifter is the way to go, though I really don't like the looks of those.
Thank you! Yes you’re correct they’re only friction. I like the 9 speed cassette, it’s my favorite, I think it works good with the friction shifters, although I’ve never tried a 10 speed.
I have a MIYATA Pro Aero which I bought new. I did an upgrade and remodel in the late 80's . to include braze-ons and a repaint. Currently mostly Sun Tour Superbe derailleurs, brakes and bar ends.. Love the bike but I want to do something more interesting with it to make it more useful rather than the all out racer it was intended to be. Done with my "racing" days. I am curious about your gearing ; what restrictions, if any, on the 11/42 - 38 ? And would it be possible to use the bar-ends ? Excellent video, crazy good bike. Admire your ingenuity and tenacity. Liked and subscribed. PS I have a 1983 SOMEC, 2011 Rivendell Hunqapillar, 2018 Rivendell Cheviot, 1991 GIANT CFM III, mid 90s Trek Mtn Bike.
thank you Jeff! As for the gearing, for me it's totally fine, but if you're more on the racer side or if you like getting a lot of speed going down hills, probably you'll spin-out. Yeah bar-end shifters should work totally fine. I'd actually like to try to do that some day.
@@BruceChastain I prefer to explore rather than race. been there, crashed that. I have modern bar ends on my Hunqapillar but original early 70s Suntour Superb bar ends on the MIYATA and the SOMEC. I take the black rubber cover off, file, sand and polish the aluminum.. they look great and are perfectly functional after all these years.
This is why steel bikes are great. No one is going to be doing this with old carbon bikes in the future. I also like that you made that trophy to remind yourself to slow down and think things through.
Almost all my bikes are 9 speed, so it’s easy to interchange parts. As for the 38x42t, well with that I can do a decent at climbing, and on the other end 38x11 is faster enough for me, not sure of the top speed but for sure can cruise around the low 30s kph.
@@BruceChastain I thought you were in Florida, are there any hills to climb in Florida ? Forgive my ignorance, I've been to Florida a few times, and I don't remember seeing any mountains like in southern California. I have a 1 to 1 ratio of 34t/34t as my lowest gearing, on my "nice" bike. And I also have a heavier Schwinn with 3x 28t front with 8x 32t rear. They feel about the same on the climbs.
Good job on a common frame. A lot of labor on a 50 dollar bike. For future reference the lugs dropouts and seatpost dimensions are a dead giveaway for a high end frame if you can identify them. But good work above all
Steel is Heavy. but at the same time it both fails gracefully, and can be bent a surprising amount without compromising its strength. Yes the clamp mistake was regrettable, but hey. Lesson learned.
Should have turned it upside down poured transmission fluid into the seat tube from bottom bracket then put it on some sort of sonic vibration device overnight to get that seat post out.
Too bad about the seat post, I would have tried freezing the post and warming the bicycle tube with a heat gun & use a CO2 fire extinguisher or even put liquid propane on seat post, it would shrink maybe be easy to remove.
Excellent video,,,,,,Sure CARBON is beautiful but can’t be fixed no mater what method is done to repair it.. ,,,, the confidence/ trust is gone…. Steel is very forgiving Also,,, can you please light any light on decals and the brand of the bicycle seat ….
thank you Tony! Yes love them steel bikes too. But sorry I didn't get you about the brand of the seat? It's a cheap ebay one, here is a video: th-cam.com/video/A5WYTqWk6U4/w-d-xo.html
I actually did try that. No dice, even had the frame on the ground with the pipe wrench and a extra pipe for more leverage. I was Torquing it so hard I thought the frame was going to get bent up.
Penetrating fluid and lots of time has only ever worked for me. Too lazy to hammer at it anyways, but nice finished product regardless of the struggle.
I get you probably enjoy doing this type of thing but man, all that work for a $300 frame at best? Go buy a Rivendell Roadini frame like I did for $1000 and be happy. Its freaking beautiful and rides like a dream.
![ILLSLICK X YOUNGOHM - We're The same [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yUJNkobYR0E/mqdefault.jpg)
If you're into tool reviews and restorations checkout my new second channel here: th-cam.com/channels/m4g4GNOTXfr3aVtSFZGMLg.html
I've been there brother. I was in the middle of building my current gravel bike and the handle bars swung around and dented my top tube. I completed the build and still ride it almost everyday. Every time I look down at the dent I get a little aggravated. We learn so much from our mistakes. That is how we grow. I have no doubt you will continue to do great things. You went above and beyond and it paid off. Amazing Job Bruce!!
well luckily my dent is near the seat post, so I don't see it while riding :) . thanks Teve
Really nice job on the restoration of a great-looking vintage Miyata. Congratulations. I have a project right now with a similar stuck seat post situation on a 1970's bike that is being converted from a 10 speed into a single-speed. After attempting to loosen the seat post in various ways with no results in sight, I simply cleaned it up and left it at the height it was stuck at. With the seat I have installed, the seat post at the exact position for the rider ... lucky
haha that's awesome, and the result isn't much different than mine, because where the dent is in the seat tube, i have to run a very short seat post, so you really can't safely raise it up any more than it is now.
Thanks for,hanging in there and saving this bike. I have a soft spot for Miyata’s. As I watched your video it was like watching an experienced surgeon saving a life. A patient who was in a bad place and you got to work. Almost surgical. Battleship grey is a cool color. I want one but with a “pop” of neon to create depth.
thank you Mauricio! I was also considering going with a second color, but being I already had these blue wheels, I was afraid that adding anything might look a little over the top, or like it's trying too hard.
Going through a similar 84 Miyata 710 rebuild/upgrade now. Thanks for the inspiration.
cool thanks Michael. I'm actually about to do some upgrade/changes on it now.
What a bummer with the seatpost and the dents. Great job fixing it again and pulling through! What a life lesson for us all to remember: Be patient... and always check the seatpost when buying a steel bike second hand! :)
haha yes. because the dents I don't think I'd ever sell or give away the frame.
I was impressed with your dedication to the projects - coast to coast on a walmart bike is no joke; but this takes it on whole another level.
hey thanks so much молотые пчёлы !
Stellar video! Loved all the details, and insane commitment to the frame repair.
Thanks for the crown race installation tool idea lol...better than my screwdriver technique
Thanks Riley! Yes I found that idea from someone else here on TH-cam
A few years back I bought a 1992 Miyata 914 that some old guy had powder coated a fad blue, put silver decals on it and clear coated over that and it was built up with Dura Ace 9 speed set up including the wheels. It was freaking awesome. I snagged it for $300. I kept and road the snot out of it for the last 9 years or so then took off all the Dura Ace bits and put tiagra stuff on it and sold it for $350.
Man you have skills, you took this bike build to a whole new level. Awesome job!
hey thanks so much for the good words Timothy. Good seeing you again in here.
I understand
You are a legend. You made a mistake of being in a hurry, I know that feeling all to well, and f'd a classic frame up that deserves better and then (legend status) you cowboyed up and gave it the love and set it back on its destiny.. Props and respect!!!! You are a Champion!!
wow thank a lot Marcus!
Satisfying video to watch! Worth the time and frustration for the restoration! I have an '84 Miyata 1000 Grand Touring as well. Friggin' love that Cadillac of a bike!
Glad you enjoyed it! thanks for the comment!
Bruce very nice job. Like always I appreciate your "ingenuity" (who will forgot the brake adapter on your mtb to road bike conversion!) of doing stuff the way you think, even if you are mistaken I feel you have learned something, and it's a beautiful message to pass.
thanks a lot Michele! Knew you'd be here for a good comment! :) yes it was a learning lesson for sure, the dent mistake easily tripled the time to build this bike.
Beautiful restoration of a very nice bike, thanks. Ben from Koga country
thanks a lot Van!
Love the trophy, I should have a few on my desk too. My experience with Shimano shift cables in Campy shifters is that the lead head on Shimano is just a little too big and can make it a booger to get out the next time. Thanks for the video.
thanks for the comment and good words
Great video. Excellent editing, content, and music. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Was a bit surprised when i first saw the different color at start of the video. But then after seeing what followed, it made sense. Good job fixing it. Also, pretty sure you're driving someone crazy with that drivetrain comprised of campy, shimano, sram, microshift, and others. I personally love it. Whatever works.
thank you Oscar! yes I was also considering how odd the mix of components are. But really it's just a combination of what I already had in the parts bin and what I could buy for a reasonable price. I should really do a price breakdown and post it in the description, I'm sure the question will come up anyway.
My friend, you are an artist! The bike was sensational, very beautiful indeed. I even think that you should have left your fork painted red. It would look even more beautiful. A big hug and until the next video.
As always thank so much Eloi!
That was a really therapeutic video to watch. Great job, Bruce! The bike looks beautiful.
thank you Satchellite! glad you liked it!
Dude! What a wonderful treatment you did in this building 😻👏👏👏🤓🚴♂️💨
thanks so much Luiz!
Awesome job!! The bike looks great!
thanks a lot Tony! and thanks for stopping by.
@@BruceChastain Anytime! I retro-moded a few bikes last summer and donated them. If you are a bike-lover like me and you are, and love tinkering on them, there is nothing more satisfying than to take an old vintage steel-frame bike and bring it back to life with a fresh coat of paint and some new, updated components. Though the bikes may be moded-out in the final restoration, they never seem to loose their vintage character.
yes and this one really does still seem vintage to me, I think because I kept the downtube shifters and quill stem, it's not light and super fast, but rides so nice.
Dude must’ve super glued the seat post or something 😂
Nice work!
thank you!
Great video! Who'd have thought that music (Eric Satie?) would go so well with a bike build? It makes me feel better that I'm not the only person who lost patience and made a costly mistake during a bike build. I guess you learn from those kind of mistakes though!
thanks Tom :)
Best rebuild I've ever seen. I like rebuilds.
thank you so much
@@BruceChastain And, Thank you for liking my comment.
That was a great build you did I have a Miata it's a 1985 and it's a survivor it's almost mint and it's the favorite bike I have I like it better than my carbon road bike
thanks Jeff!
Nice work homie.I was having flashbacks watching you paint, and how i said i would not paint another bike.
Thanks 👍
Great video!! I'm planing to get a miyata le tour bike next week from a local shop.
very cool. It might be my favorite vintage road brand.
Watching at work 💪 Nice paint work
thanks man, this was a big one for me.
You really put some WORK in! Great content
Thanks a lot Komoonkh!
Six hours of hacksaw?! Man that's dedication! Nice rehab, I enjoyed watching it.
thanks Brittany! Yes well the thing is, you have to be very careful because if they saw blade isn't perfectly parallel with the seat tube, then it can start actually cutting into the tube and not just the post, so it's very slow cutting and a lot of stopping and checking as you go.
かっこいい。自転車を愛する気持ちが伝わってくる。
ありがとう！
That bike looks fabulous! Great job 🚴🚴🚴👍
thanks a lot David!
Nice job on the headset locknut, it was thrashed, but you brought it back to respectability!
thank you :)
I have had success getting a stuck seatpost out with liquid nitrogen and a heat gun. I do this first before attempting any other kind of removal such as a liquid penetrant or use of force.
1. Place the frame in a stand upside down, seatpost pointed down. Make sure that any holes to the inside of the post are plugged so that the liquid nitrogen does not run out.
2. Heat the seat tube gently with the heat gun. This will expand the seat tube metal.
3. Pour the liquid nitrogen down into the bottom bracket, and down into the seat tube. This will contract the seat post.
The thermal difference between the post and seat tube will generally shock the seat post free, sometimes with a popping sound. However, I have a mallet ready to quickly knock the seat post out once I either hear the pop or I give it a few seconds to react.
You don't have to really get the seat tube any hotter than a temperature that is uncomfortable for you to touch and hold. Anything hotter than this is just excessive due to the super cold nature of the liquid nitrogen. If done correctly, you won't damage the paint. If there are some nearby decals, those might be damaged.
Where does an average person get liquid nitrogen in the amount needed to try this technique my self.
Your videos are so relaxing I really love it
thank you!
Super nice bike man! Well done!
thank you Simon!
That bike looks great!
thanks a lot Joe!
the devil's in the detail, 10/10 for a great build, beautiful bike, thanks from U.K.
thank you Reece!
quality build.So therapeutic watching someone build a bike.You certainly have some skills Bruce.Would you ever consider removing the left shifter boss for a cleaner look for a build like this one?
thanks a lot SC! I'd like to try to remove a shifter boss on a frame I was throwing away anyway, at the moment I'm a little worried to try it.
Excellent work. Love your videos
Thank you! Cheers!
I have a univega nuovosport pretty much similar frame- looking into DIY painting the frame myself. I noticed you didnt completely remove the initial paint layer. How did you approach the paint job? Just simply sanding down to some extent then straight to spraying? I see other videos where people will bring the frame down to bare steel, does it make any difference? Thanks
I've painted a few frames now and my method that I think works best is this:
1. Sand down to where the surface of the existing paint is very thin or even the paint is gone. Don't worry about removing it totally, the original paint will actually sick better to the metal likely then what you'll apply.
2. I don't use primer, I use a 2 in one primer paint, and I've been fine like that.
3. Use the 2 part clear coat, do not use a regular single part, needs to be 2 part clear. And know that whatever you have before laying the clear down is what you're going to get in terms of the surface finish. The 2 part clear really just creates a glossy hard coating of whatever you already have.
That's my cliff notes from doing a few frames.
@@BruceChastain great thanks for the response. What type of material do you use to do the sanding?
영상 잘 봤습니다. I really like your video. Thank you :)
thank you Lee!
Nice! A couple of questions... Wouldn't it be possible to pull out the dents in the top tube like on a car dent repair?
Good idea with the 9 speed 1x9 - great with the link to the Microshift cassette - i'll be using that... but I prefer STI shifters instead of downtube shifters - do you know any STI shifters that work with the Sram derailleur?
Thanks Andreas! I did contact some people on suggestions for the dent, even posted on a frame builders facebook group, the suggestion is to first try to actually push it out with what's called frame blocks, which I did you can see at one point in the video. Then either use a metal filler or bondo to finish it. In terms of the STI and Sram, I might be wrong but I believe any will work as long as it matches the number of cogs on the cassette. This is because the distance that the derailleur moves is only dependent on the shifter, not actually the derailleur, I mean the distance of the increments. Hope that makes sense.
Love the bike and I love the colour too you got some skill wish I did could you build one with more gear like so 1x12 to see if it better than the 1x9 thanks
sure 1x12 would be possible. It's just I'm too cheap for that good stuff :)
1x is crap
outstanding!! you sir have skill. i hope to get as deep as you do on a build.im looking at a few bikes that may be good candidates for a complete take down and restore
Thanks a lot Stanley!
Hi Bruce…amazing restoration, I recently bought Pro Miyata but the rear drop out has a crack one on the detailer side, is that an issue?
Seems to me like that should ideally be repaired, wouldn't want it to fail while riding.
@@BruceChastain great point, what type of shop will be the ideal to fix this?
@@yylvib not sure, maybe stop in at some local bike shops, I wouldn't think that they would be able to take care of it, but they may know someone who can.
@@BruceChastain ok fantastic- I appreciate it.
Amazing Build!
By the way, did it take you this long or did you just take a haircut midway? 🤔🤔
hey thanks man! yeah I think a little both, it did take awhile to finish but also I cut my hair myself so I do that sometimes :)
@@BruceChastain would be awesome if we saw you ride this build!
Great result! I presume the downtube shifters are not indexed? How do you like them with the nine speed cassette? My project idea was a 1x10 setup with downtube shifters, but it's near impossible to find compatible indexed shifters apparently and I've never tried pure friction shift so I'm unsure about that. Maybe bar end shifter is the way to go, though I really don't like the looks of those.
Thank you! Yes you’re correct they’re only friction. I like the 9 speed cassette, it’s my favorite, I think it works good with the friction shifters, although I’ve never tried a 10 speed.
Great job!
Thank you Losif!
Great job Bruce...👍
Thanks 👍
I have a MIYATA Pro Aero which I bought new. I did an upgrade and remodel in the late 80's .
to include braze-ons and a repaint.
Currently mostly Sun Tour Superbe derailleurs, brakes and bar ends..
Love the bike but I want to do something more interesting with it to make it more useful rather than
the all out racer it was intended to be. Done with my "racing" days.
I am curious about your gearing ; what restrictions, if any, on the 11/42 - 38 ?
And would it be possible to use the bar-ends ?
Excellent video, crazy good bike. Admire your ingenuity and tenacity.
Liked and subscribed.
PS I have a 1983 SOMEC, 2011 Rivendell Hunqapillar, 2018 Rivendell Cheviot, 1991 GIANT CFM III,
mid 90s Trek Mtn Bike.
thank you Jeff! As for the gearing, for me it's totally fine, but if you're more on the racer side or if you like getting a lot of speed going down hills, probably you'll spin-out. Yeah bar-end shifters should work totally fine. I'd actually like to try to do that some day.
@@BruceChastain I prefer to explore rather than race. been there, crashed that.
I have modern bar ends on my Hunqapillar but original early 70s Suntour Superb bar ends on the MIYATA and the SOMEC.
I take the black rubber cover off, file, sand and polish the aluminum.. they look great and are perfectly functional after all these years.
Man if I was you I’d be putting the brake lever shifters in these bikes
yeah I could but I''m kinda cheap and never want to buy em.
Great refurb!
thanks man!
Thats a beautiful bike.
thank you!
This is why steel bikes are great. No one is going to be doing this with old carbon bikes in the future. I also like that you made that trophy to remind yourself to slow down and think things through.
thanks a lot Al!
Great video.
What made you decide on the 42T 9 speed cassette, with the 38T crank ?
Almost all my bikes are 9 speed, so it’s easy to interchange parts. As for the 38x42t, well with that I can do a decent at climbing, and on the other end 38x11 is faster enough for me, not sure of the top speed but for sure can cruise around the low 30s kph.
@@BruceChastain I thought you were in Florida, are there any hills to climb in Florida ? Forgive my ignorance, I've been to Florida a few times, and I don't remember seeing any mountains like in southern California.
I have a 1 to 1 ratio of 34t/34t as my lowest gearing, on my "nice" bike.
And I also have a heavier Schwinn with 3x 28t front with 8x 32t rear. They feel about the same on the climbs.
Que buen trabajo
Wow awesome work, is that bike originally a 27 inch bike? what tires did you use on it? what type of brake did you use to get to the 700c wheels?
thanks a lot Julio! Actually this one was originally a 700c, so that made it easy. Went with Panaracer gravel kings.
How long do you think the spray paint will last?
Still looks pretty good today, maybe I should do an update video on that...
great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Good good good job 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻bravo ciao da Milano italy 💛👋🏻👋🏻
thanks so much Antonio!
Good job on a common frame. A lot of labor on a 50 dollar bike. For future reference the lugs dropouts and seatpost dimensions are a dead giveaway for a high end frame if you can identify them. But good work above all
thanks NewM!
Steel is Heavy. but at the same time it both fails gracefully, and can be bent a surprising amount without compromising its strength.
Yes the clamp mistake was regrettable, but hey. Lesson learned.
yep, I'll never forget that one :)
very nice work !!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Should have turned it upside down poured transmission fluid into the seat tube from bottom bracket then put it on some sort of sonic vibration device overnight to get that seat post out.
🚲 gold 👏
well done!
thanks DBZ!
awesome!
Thank you! Cheers!
Love the trophy ;) you deserve it!
Thanks! 😁
Great video. Reminds me a lot of Oldshovel's videos.
thank you! I do get inspiration from his videos. I like his mature approach, not all flashy and crazy with the video production.
Wow. Well done.
Many many thanks Rolando!
Too bad about the seat post, I would have tried freezing the post and warming the bicycle tube with a heat gun & use a CO2 fire extinguisher or even put liquid propane on seat post, it would shrink maybe be easy to remove.
hmm interesting idea with the fire extinguisher
Six hours of hacksawing? That's more than 5 3/4 hours than I would have spent on it!
haha if it weren't for the fact I was trying to make a video, I would have too.
Excellent video,,,,,,Sure CARBON is beautiful but can’t be fixed no mater what method is done to repair it.. ,,,, the confidence/ trust is gone….
Steel is very forgiving
Also,,, can you please light any light on decals and the brand of the bicycle seat ….
thank you Tony! Yes love them steel bikes too. But sorry I didn't get you about the brand of the seat? It's a cheap ebay one, here is a video: th-cam.com/video/A5WYTqWk6U4/w-d-xo.html
Bike Therapy. Nice.
thank you!
from miyata to a Stratovarius' bravo
thanks texts!
You should have just used heat on the the seat tube since you were repainting it, could save you a hassle
a plumbing pipe wrench and wd40 might've helped
I actually did try that. No dice, even had the frame on the ground with the pipe wrench and a extra pipe for more leverage. I was Torquing it so hard I thought the frame was going to get bent up.
you cannot work that kind of magic with carbon fiber
true!
I did not see any flux when you were brazing...
Yes I had flux, although I can’t guarantee I was using it right
Another TH-camr destroys a thing. Yay.
Hi Peter!
Good job❤we share hobby😊
No sé
Penetrating fluid and lots of time has only ever worked for me. Too lazy to hammer at it anyways, but nice finished product regardless of the struggle.
thanks Justin!
So, guessing steel seat tube + aluminum seat post = bad company
that is correct, but it's very very common.
I get you probably enjoy doing this type of thing but man, all that work for a $300 frame at best? Go buy a Rivendell Roadini frame like I did for $1000 and be happy. Its freaking beautiful and rides like a dream.
Seatpost stuck. I need more hammer.
lol no more hammer!
A new Tange headset is like $25
No 🖐️🤚🫣😳
It's not a restoration if you don't use the original parts