I'm stuck in bed because of my spinal arthritis, but watching you work in the shop made me a happy for a few minutes. Thanks for the hard work and getting your apron dirty.
I'm always amazed at how many people comment with how "they" would do it since they're "so much more experienced and smarter"... I have never done work like this but I think you did a great job! In the end does it really matter?, it's apart.
Hey Keith! If there is one thing I have learned from an old mechanic was to spray anything your going to disassemble a day or two before attempting to work on it. Stay healthy.
I worked on resistance welders , lots of scrap copper and brass . for long punches we drilled a hole in a bar of steel , threaded it and screwed a brass bolt in for a " soft " end .
Kieth, look at cutting the damaged base away from the center rotating feature then mounting the rotating feature back on a new base cut from some steel plate. Fasten the two together from below or above with 1/2" cap screws. No worry about further cracking the rotation feature while trying to braze in a new piece.
Keith, Make yourself two short pins same diameter as the shaft. Taper one end, the longer the taper the better. You now have drift punches to align the holes and lock it in place with the trunnion bolts. If you put one drift punch in with the taper pointing outwards, the main axle will drive it out. Al
If you drill and tap the end of the pin, you can use allthread to draw it back in instead of percussive brutality. Drill a hole through the stub pins suggested below to clear the threaded rod.
Hi there , just checked Abom (th-cam.com/video/si1uU2Z0yNM/w-d-xo.html ) table isn’t really identical , it’s part of the shaper , it’s not an accessory for a radial drill . True it has angle adjustment but so do many other machine tables or slides . I used to work in a machine tool builder (Foradia )making big radial drills . They offered varios options on slotted boxes with one plane angle adjustment but no rotary base .
I’ll be following along for this one Keith. Especially the pattern and casting portion of it. I hope you have some good technical videos explaining the pattern size vs final casting size to account for the shrinkage factor.
Nice job taking it apart, you had me nerves their for a few seconds, when the whole units started to move, and with my advantage of the video, you could see that happen. Great video and when reassembling just make a taper pin to guide the pin back in, that's the way, I have always aligned things similar to that. And Happy New Year, too you and your family.
For getting the table on, maybe use some screw jacks on each corner so you can accurately dial in the location and have it stay there. Either screw jacks or bottle jacks.
Turn two (2) short pins the diameter of the table tilt pins. Turn a slight taper on one end of each short pin. Insert them, using the taper to get the holes aligned and let the full diameter of the pins to align the holes. Then drive the tilt table axis shaft thru, knocking the short dummy partially pins out as you go. Easy peasey.
You might be able to use a wad of masking tape or duct tape for a third hand in those cases. Just wrap a bunch of tape around the end of the shaft and drift to hold them together. The tape will push off the shaft as it goes thru the hole, but it should hold the drift in place almost until the last knock.
I have actually ran production parts and a radial drill was a part of my job so we had to set the thing up with the angle we wanted with aluminum or steel blocks machined ground precision or what have you for repeatable to achieve all the actual radial drill had was the knee with the keyway's. Could have used this rotating angle plate setup life would have been easier we did not know about these in my earlier machining days. That optional plate is really huge and tough to work on for you Keith.
Nice job, A suggestion for you, something I use to remove close tolerance hardware from a wing spar. I use a rivet gun, the rapid pulsing beats hammering on the parts. I believe that center shaft would have come out with a lot less effort.
It's a monster! I have just 3 comments. 1) there seems to be a center punch mark between the 2 set screws to mark the position of the shaft relative to the worm gear,but I was glad to see you marked it any way.2)On the retaining collar on the other end it may have been easier to remove the shaft if you had first cleaned up the indentation left by the set screw.3) when reassembling I suggest making a dummy shaft the same size as the original, but longer with a long taper on one end that you could push through and then follow with the original one. As usual ,a great video.You need Bryan to build you a gantry!
Les Bender, I’m just being a smartass after seeing all the replies that Brian got about it! But, I would have welded a couple 1/4” plates in there too! It wouldn’t have taken much to do it.
Can't wait to see the solution- casting an ear and brazing will take some serious heating on that thing, then the base will have to be milled flat to a reasonable tolerance for drilling jobs- not sure if you have a mill or shaper with enough travel. I'll bet that old planer could do it.
Frame around the area to be cast with some cardboard, pour in some latex mold making compound, and copy the area to be duplicated. Remove the now copied section and send it off to have it recast in cast iron from the foundry. That way you can stick weld the section on and go through the heating/cooling process a few times to relieve internal stresses. You may even be able to have the composition of the original part matched and have the new section cast with a closely matching part. Just my opinion, it's what I would do considering the amount of stress that corner would be under when clamped and the table articulated.
Hell yea! I was thinking he could cast twins of all those components and have one or more extra complete assemblies available. Definately a cool piece 'specially with so many beast Radial Arm Drills around.
That went a lot easier than I was expecting! Great job keeping all your fingers intact, too! Thinking about using pins to reinforce the repair? ----Aaron
I was thinking that you would only need to remove the four bolts holding the huge top rotating portion to the stationary base for your repair work on the missing "leg" of the base. But maybe you wanted to fully take it apart anyway.
I don't know if I'm in the minority here, but I really like the cleaning parts. So I was surprised when you said you wouldn't bore us with the cleaning. Anyway, nice table, nice video! To be honest, I was afraid the table would tip over much worse when it got loose.
I would suggest reassembly be done with the table upside down, that way the heaviest part is stationary, and the lighter stand is suspended, with the base being the last of the 3 main components to be added.
You had me worried with it in that position... I knew it would settle after the clamps were released. Good job! Waiting for more on this old treasure, it's going to make a great addition to the drill. You know Adam Booth needs a table for his, right? Time to do some horse-trading! I'm sure he'd love to have your old, non-universal one.
Exactly what I was thinking, he scared me the hal out when the table tilted, I thought it would flip all back unless the engine hoist. Nice video and hope to see the whole completion, only if it was speed-up. It looks to me a shaper table.
I was thinking the same thing also. I Even imagined three matching FLAT paralells from 1" plate steel, bolted to the bottom to reinforce the planned brazing repair. To quote Tom Lipton of OX Tools- "Nothing too strong ever broke." Something thats already that heavy we don't just swing it up on the drill one handed like like a suitcase anyway. ... (Well, mabe Abom79 does lol.) (Countersunk sockethead bolts). *I liked your comment, Machinists like their work to exell standard quality.
@@keith73z28 I was thinking reading your comment, what about bringing that large piece on brazing temp and slowing down after brazing. Keith could better takeover the bottom plate and create a new steel one, instead of brazing a newly cast piece to it.
There are some proprietary casting repair systems such as "Metal lock" and "Lock-n-Stitch" which use either a linked key stitch or a truncated threaded fastener to provide constant tension across the crack or repair joint. These systems are very strong. Perhaps one of the companies would be interested in producing a demonstration video. Their market is usually the oil field or heavy earth moving equipment, but machinery is another on of their specialties. Good luck and good job, thanks.
hey keith hows about pouring a casting repair on the corner set the whole thing in a mould box with a void around the corner to suit the repair make a large riser and gate melt far to much metal and run it through for some time so to melt the origional casting then leave it to cool or you could leave a percentage hanging out to heat and lessen the chance of any chills happening if you use sodium silicate it would handle it better
I have never seen that done, have you done it? How well does the new pour fuse to the old metal? Seems like it would be hard to get that big base hot enough to make a good joint.
@@bcbloc02 hi brian i havent done it myself but have read it in a book it could have been the metal casters bible but cant be sure as most of my books are still packed up after moving but do remember the context was repairing castings with faults actually at the foundry i think the technique was called washing in . if it was at the foundry they would have no shortage of hot metal to pour through the mould i think the worst problem would be the heat affected zone not getting chilled by the bulk of the origional casting . i have been trying to figure out how to contact luckgen an austrailian you tuber who does some fab casting work .
agreed, this seems like the best option. you would want to have induction heaters on the broken part of the casting to bring it up to temperature, then pour brass around it. you can then use the induction heaters to slow the cooling so there is minimal distortion.
@@bcbloc02 i have just rooted out the book the metal casters bible by cw ammen isbn 0-8306-1173-8 and so far on page 181 its called autogenous welding :pouring hot metal in a defect in a casting in hopes it will weld and become part of the parent metal. this is also called burning in. he goes on to say , it is a hit and miss deal at any rate . the hotter the casting being repaired the better chance you have of establishing a good homogenous weld .
Sam's Club degreaser concentrate - it's supposed to be mixed 32:1 with water - but if you mix it 50/50 it will de-grease AND strip paint real easy!!!! it's only like 6 or 8 bucks for a gallon of it at Sam's-
Maybe cast the whole new base and for go the brazing.... one question I have is how do you align the universal knee on a radial arm DP. to get the angle with out error.
Putting pin back in make some loose fitting short stub pins that you can place into the holes when you are in approximate alignment. One with probably 1mm clearance and the other with 0.5mm clearance, just a little longer than the 2 web thicknesses. Then you get a rough alignment and put the loose pin in the one side, and then align the other side with the closer tolerance pin, and finally use the shaft to push out the loose pin , taking the final alignment, and then pushing the last pin out with ease as you get there. Might just want to take the shaft and put a slight draft on the end with the collar, so you can use this to align, the grub screw and collar will not be in the way.
I was thinking a couple short tapered pins. Just wiggle the pieces around til the pins settle in, and then lock it in place with the bolts, just the opposite of the way it came apart.
Future project idea Keith, a rolling gantry crane. Contact Abom and get him to give you design details on his so you can copy it. Simpler to build than Mr. Fenner's crane and you don't need A-frames that can pivot with all that floorspace. But still, that engine hoist is getting too small for taking apart these machines.
Serious question from someone who doesn't know. Is there such a thing as extruded cast-iron? I thought that's how you made steel, but again I don't know
Just saw that the base is missing a piece, kind of a bummer, the assembly seems to be in pretty good nick otherwise (well, except for the apprentice marks on the table, but those come with the trade).
Great video Keith, just wondering why you wouldn't weld it instead of brazing it? From a shop that specializes in cast iron repair on a variety of old farm , automotive and industrial applications. We weld cast iron or cast steel with no stress cracks or any failures about 97% of the repairs undertaken !
The amount of nickel rod for a repair like that will cost an arm, a leg and a dick. Probably both of your kidneys too. :-D And not even guaranteed to work. Keith said it many times that he's much more comfortable with brazing.
If he would try welding it with , I just might! You guys must be paying a huge price for your nickel rod. From your comments that's what it sounds like. Wish I knew how to post pictures on here!
I bet that thing is closer to 700 lbs. I just rebuild a mill, lathe compo that was 469lbs, fully dressed and this has substantially more iron in it as far as I can tell.
Interesting piece, neat video. How did they machine the circular T-slot in the base? How did they get the milling tool into the slot that they were machining.
Hole drilled all the way thru the width of slot then slot width cutter brought up from the bottom side to proper height and then revolved to make the slot.
I'd weld that if it were me... Then get it on a large Miller and recut the bottom where it bolts to the base of a drill...using the radius part on the top to register... Then it could be flipped over and the bolt seats skimmed...
Don't try to weld on a repair piece to the base plate. machine the minimum off the surface of the bottom so there is a true step. machine a whole new corner.. bolt it on from the bottom. if you machine it just right.. you should be able since the base will be sitting on top of your repair as an overlap.. not a butt joint.. it will be crazy strong. you will be able to rough the upper shape of the repair with grinders. needle scalers.. a little bondo to fill any gaps and when you paint it.. since you will be have blind holes up from the bottom or even counter sunk holes all the way thru the flange. you can bondo those up and paint it.. no repair will be seen.
I'm stuck in bed because of my spinal arthritis, but watching you work in the shop made me a happy for a few minutes. Thanks for the hard work and getting your apron dirty.
I'm always amazed at how many people comment with how "they" would do it since they're "so much more experienced and smarter"... I have never done work like this but I think you did a great job! In the end does it really matter?, it's apart.
Hey Keith! If there is one thing I have learned from an old mechanic was to spray anything your going to disassemble a day or two before attempting to work on it. Stay healthy.
I love these restoration videos.
me too!!
I worked on resistance welders , lots of scrap copper and brass . for long punches we drilled a hole in a bar of steel , threaded it and screwed a brass bolt in for a " soft " end .
Watching you clean those up wouldn’t be boring I love the restoration videos my self keep up the great videos
Constantly amazed at the work Keith does without the help of an assistant or apprentice.
It's all about the rigging.
@@noelhenderson700 And common sense.
Kieth, look at cutting the damaged base away from the center rotating feature then mounting the rotating feature back on a new base cut from some steel plate. Fasten the two together from below or above with 1/2" cap screws. No worry about further cracking the rotation feature while trying to braze in a new piece.
Going to be a fun project!! Can't wait for the pattern making! Thanks Keith!
Looking forward to the repair of the casting. All the rest looks like it's in very good nick, gonna be a nice piece when finished.
Keith, Make yourself two short pins same diameter as the shaft. Taper one end, the longer the taper the better. You now have drift punches to align the holes and lock it in place with the trunnion bolts. If you put one drift punch in with the taper pointing outwards, the main axle will drive it out.
Al
That table is a beast, love it!
Enjoyed seeing how it's put together. Looking forward to the casting repair.
I love these types of videos.have fun!!! it will be awesome when you are done.
Amazing display of moving stuff around without bruising knuckles. Keith, you are one with the metal!
Cant wait to see the rest
Extremely cool. Looking forward to this project.
Keith, great job dissembling what will be an interesting project.!.!.!.
If you drill and tap the end of the pin, you can use allthread to draw it back in instead of percussive brutality.
Drill a hole through the stub pins suggested below to clear the threaded rod.
Nice table...looking forward to the repair ...
Nice table ! Never seen one with a rotary base before. Good luck with the restoration.
Aboms shaper has a universal on it, I think identical
Hi there , just checked Abom (th-cam.com/video/si1uU2Z0yNM/w-d-xo.html ) table isn’t really identical , it’s part of the shaper , it’s not an accessory for a radial drill . True it has angle adjustment but so do many other machine tables or slides . I used to work in a machine tool builder (Foradia )making big radial drills . They offered varios options on slotted boxes with one plane angle adjustment but no rotary base .
Great job Keith. I think that was the easiest, most problem free disassembly I've seen you do.....lol
I love taking things apart as much as you do to see how they work. thanks. you doing it saves on my knuckles. sorry I just couldn't help myself there
It's putting them back together that always does for me.😊
I’ll be following along for this one Keith. Especially the pattern and casting portion of it.
I hope you have some good technical videos explaining the pattern size vs final casting size to account for the shrinkage factor.
I like your game plan for the repair.
Nice job taking it apart, you had me nerves their for a few seconds, when the whole units started to move, and with my advantage of the video, you could see that happen. Great video and when reassembling just make a taper pin to guide the pin back in, that's the way, I have always aligned things similar to that. And Happy New Year, too you and your family.
Keith, great video thanks for sharing.!.!.!.
For getting the table on, maybe use some screw jacks on each corner so you can accurately dial in the location and have it stay there. Either screw jacks or bottle jacks.
Turn two (2) short pins the diameter of the table tilt pins. Turn a slight taper on one end of each short pin. Insert them, using the taper to get the holes aligned and let the full diameter of the pins to align the holes. Then drive the tilt table axis shaft thru, knocking the short dummy partially pins out as you go. Easy peasey.
You might be able to use a wad of masking tape or duct tape for a third hand in those cases. Just wrap a bunch of tape around the end of the shaft and drift to hold them together. The tape will push off the shaft as it goes thru the hole, but it should hold the drift in place almost until the last knock.
Absolute awesome
Looking forward to your repair solution.
I have actually ran production parts and a radial drill was a part of my job so we had to set the thing up with the angle we wanted with aluminum or steel blocks machined ground precision or what have you for repeatable to achieve all the actual radial drill had was the knee with the keyway's. Could have used this rotating angle plate setup life would have been easier we did not know about these in my earlier machining days. That optional plate is really huge and tough to work on for you Keith.
Nice job, A suggestion for you, something I use to remove close tolerance hardware from a wing spar. I use a rivet gun, the rapid pulsing beats hammering on the parts. I believe that center shaft would have come out with a lot less effort.
It's a monster! I have just 3 comments. 1) there seems to be a center punch mark between the 2 set screws to mark the position of the shaft relative to the worm gear,but I was glad to see you marked it any way.2)On the retaining collar on the other end it may have been easier to remove the shaft if you had first cleaned up the indentation left by the set screw.3)
when reassembling I suggest making a dummy shaft the same size as the original, but longer with a long taper on one end that you could push through and then follow with the original one.
As usual ,a great video.You need Bryan to build you a gantry!
Les Bender, I think Keith wanted Brian to build a gantry crane for him, but Brian refused to put any gussets on it!
@@Hoaxer51 Keith could add them himself.I thought they should be there myself to lessen the stress on the top welds
Les Bender, I’m just being a smartass after seeing all the replies that Brian got about it! But, I would have welded a couple 1/4” plates in there too! It wouldn’t have taken much to do it.
Can't wait to see the solution- casting an ear and brazing will take some serious heating on that thing, then the base will have to be milled flat to a reasonable tolerance for drilling jobs- not sure if you have a mill or shaper with enough travel. I'll bet that old planer could do it.
Enjoyed the video
Looking forward to the casting repair.
Casting the new piece is going to be interesting.
Frame around the area to be cast with some cardboard, pour in some latex mold making compound, and copy the area to be duplicated. Remove the now copied section and send it off to have it recast in cast iron from the foundry. That way you can stick weld the section on and go through the heating/cooling process a few times to relieve internal stresses. You may even be able to have the composition of the original part matched and have the new section cast with a closely matching part. Just my opinion, it's what I would do considering the amount of stress that corner would be under when clamped and the table articulated.
I wish I had a table like that! Maybe someday I will find an affordable one.
Hell yea! I was thinking he could cast twins of all those components and have one or more extra complete assemblies available. Definately a cool piece 'specially with so many beast Radial Arm Drills around.
he might ask you to mill it flat after the repair
It would not be a problem. :-)
That angle scale looks like a happy frogs face lol
Awesome 👍
Is there a part 2 for this restore ?
Interesante reparación !!!! Espero ansioso los próximos videos.
That went a lot easier than I was expecting! Great job keeping all your fingers intact, too! Thinking about using pins to reinforce the repair? ----Aaron
I was thinking that you would only need to remove the four bolts holding the huge top rotating portion to the stationary base for your repair work on the missing "leg" of the base. But maybe you wanted to fully take it apart anyway.
I don't know if I'm in the minority here, but I really like the cleaning parts. So I was surprised when you said you wouldn't bore us with the cleaning. Anyway, nice table, nice video! To be honest, I was afraid the table would tip over much worse when it got loose.
Hand tool rescue has nearly 500,000 subscribers, I think he is underestimating what people will watch.
hand tool "rescue" is amateurish and painful to watch. that guy destroys tools.
@@superdansilverman.....Go away! Every comment you make is negative and full of your "know-it-all" BS. Why the constant hate?
Maybe, but a ton of people like to watch his and other videos of degreasing and rust scraping etc.
@@paulcopeland9035 luv you too bb 💋
Handling that thing made me start to sweat and puff too!
HEY KEITH, How about making a VIEWING SET of this.?? This is PART ONE...??????
I would suggest reassembly be done with the table upside down, that way the heaviest part is stationary, and the lighter stand is suspended, with the base being the last of the 3 main components to be added.
Wonderful!
just great videos, greetings from germany
Grate project I like your plan, can’t wait for the brazing and too see you prove all the naysayers wrong
Hi Keith. Very well done! Quite enthralling watching you. I rather suspect a lot of knowledge comes into play. BobUK
Heavy metal on a Monday morning 😎
You had me worried with it in that position... I knew it would settle after the clamps were released. Good job! Waiting for more on this old treasure, it's going to make a great addition to the drill. You know Adam Booth needs a table for his, right? Time to do some horse-trading! I'm sure he'd love to have your old, non-universal one.
With a piece that big to be brazed would it be worth drilling in some holes you can use for locator pins or bolts?
Now that's exactly what i was thinking, they would or should add a little bit of support for the brazed joint.
Exactly what I was thinking, he scared me the hal out when the table tilted, I thought it would flip all back unless the engine hoist. Nice video and hope to see the whole completion, only if it was speed-up. It looks to me a shaper table.
I was thinking the same thing also. I Even imagined three matching FLAT paralells from 1" plate steel, bolted to the bottom to reinforce the planned brazing repair. To quote Tom Lipton of OX Tools- "Nothing too strong ever broke." Something thats already that heavy we don't just swing it up on the drill one handed like like a suitcase anyway. ... (Well, mabe Abom79 does lol.) (Countersunk sockethead bolts). *I liked your comment, Machinists like their work to exell standard quality.
@@keith73z28 I was thinking reading your comment, what about bringing that large piece on brazing temp and slowing down after brazing.
Keith could better takeover the bottom plate and create a new steel one, instead of brazing a newly cast piece to it.
There are some proprietary casting repair systems such as "Metal lock" and "Lock-n-Stitch" which use either a linked key stitch or a truncated threaded fastener to provide constant tension across the crack or repair joint. These systems are very strong. Perhaps one of the companies would be interested in producing a demonstration video. Their market is usually the oil field or heavy earth moving equipment, but machinery is another on of their specialties. Good luck and good job, thanks.
Very nice upgrade Keith.
Adam may have need your old table. His drill didn't have one.
yeah,he sell that table to Adam for his Abom size drill....
8:45 You need those Crescent 460's. They get the job done right.
You need a rolling gantry to handle that heavy iron by yourself.
Yeah, that was scary to watch. He really should use the propper tools...
@@Rabennase3 You mean as opposed to the tool designed to lift large cast iron or cast aluminum machines with extremely precise tolerances in them?
@@Rabennase3....Scary? Why?
He got it done just fine.
@@Rabennase3 naa! you haven't seen scary until you watch me do something like that.
hey keith hows about pouring a casting repair on the corner set the whole thing in a mould box with a void around the corner to suit the repair make a large riser and gate melt far to much metal and run it through for some time so to melt the origional casting then leave it to cool or you could leave a percentage hanging out to heat and lessen the chance of any chills happening if you use sodium silicate it would handle it better
I have never seen that done, have you done it? How well does the new pour fuse to the old metal? Seems like it would be hard to get that big base hot enough to make a good joint.
@@bcbloc02 hi brian i havent done it myself but have read it in a book it could have been the metal casters bible but cant be sure as most of my books are still packed up after moving but do remember the context was repairing castings with faults actually at the foundry i think the technique was called washing in . if it was at the foundry they would have no shortage of hot metal to pour through the mould i think the worst problem would be the heat affected zone not getting chilled by the bulk of the origional casting . i have been trying to figure out how to contact luckgen an austrailian you tuber who does some fab casting work .
agreed, this seems like the best option. you would want to have induction heaters on the broken part of the casting to bring it up to temperature, then pour brass around it. you can then use the induction heaters to slow the cooling so there is minimal distortion.
@@superdansilverman i was talking about iron rather than brass the idea is to end up with a as new casting
@@bcbloc02 i have just rooted out the book the metal casters bible by cw ammen isbn 0-8306-1173-8 and so far on page 181 its called autogenous welding :pouring hot metal in a defect in a casting in hopes it will weld and become part of the parent metal. this is also called burning in. he goes on to say , it is a hit and miss deal at any rate . the hotter the casting being repaired the better chance you have of establishing a good homogenous weld .
You need to have bcbloc02 machine all the sides square with each other when you’re done with repair. He definitely has the mill for it!
Another fun video Keith, thats a neat table for sure. looking forward to seeing how you approach that repair
oh boy going to be a goodie.. i see you have changed the outro music up a bit sounds more fun (for a lack of better words)
After the trunnion bolt was loosen the table move to its parked position. It might be easier to drive the pin in that position.
I love what you do. where are you located? Someday before I die I'd like to come see some of your projects.
Sam's Club degreaser concentrate - it's supposed to be mixed 32:1 with water - but if you mix it 50/50 it will de-grease AND strip paint real easy!!!! it's only like 6 or 8 bucks for a gallon of it at Sam's-
Maybe cast the whole new base and for go the brazing.... one question I have is how do you align the universal knee on a radial arm DP. to get the angle with out error.
Hi Keith, try NaOH lye as a paint stripper. Cheap and removes 100 % of the paint without any effort.
Lye is nasty stuff - never use it unless you absolutely have to, always try something less dangerous if you can.
Did you ever look in a Carlton Catalog to see if the table was an optional part?
Putting pin back in make some loose fitting short stub pins that you can place into the holes when you are in approximate alignment. One with probably 1mm clearance and the other with 0.5mm clearance, just a little longer than the 2 web thicknesses. Then you get a rough alignment and put the loose pin in the one side, and then align the other side with the closer tolerance pin, and finally use the shaft to push out the loose pin , taking the final alignment, and then pushing the last pin out with ease as you get there. Might just want to take the shaft and put a slight draft on the end with the collar, so you can use this to align, the grub screw and collar will not be in the way.
I was thinking a couple short tapered pins. Just wiggle the pieces around til the pins settle in, and then lock it in place with the bolts, just the opposite of the way it came apart.
I think that would be easier to re-assemble upside-down.
tjousk getting the T nut in might be tricky
Indeede deede doo. Put the stupid heavy part on the table and add the light parts...
It may be, but having to get it flipped back over after assembly would make it not worth it.
inkman996
Trying to flip it would be a great way to break off another corner of the base.
It would be far easier if it was reassembled on its side. Much easier to line up the pivot
am I the only one who was secretly hoping for that shaft to shoot across the shop with the first hit of that 4lb precision fitting hammer? LOL...
Keith, I think you had better add "Heavy" Vintage Machinery to your logo! Never gets smaller. lol
A little penetrating oil to make things easier ?
Make a mold of the oposite corner to fix the broken one. A foundry could easily make a new one
"Casting" - that reminds me. Whatever became of that foundry furnace you were building? Might we see that in use here?
Enjoyed Keith, thats going to be real nice to work with when your done!
ATB, Robin
Future project idea Keith, a rolling gantry crane. Contact Abom and get him to give you design details on his so you can copy it. Simpler to build than Mr. Fenner's crane and you don't need A-frames that can pivot with all that floorspace. But still, that engine hoist is getting too small for taking apart these machines.
At 12:45 /46 the sound of extra thrust does the truck. :)
Will we finally see the new smelter furnace in action?
no he cant do iron
@@jusb1066 That's what he made his new furnace for, to be able to do iron.
@@knas5289 haha did he? oh well if he ever does, then it will be fun
RunE knas, he can set the base of that new table on top of his new furnace and heat it up for welding and to slowly cool it off!
Can you find some extruded cast iron thick enough to do it and machine it also? just wondering Keith...
Serious question from someone who doesn't know. Is there such a thing as extruded cast-iron? I thought that's how you made steel, but again I don't know
@@henryD9363 yes, it's called continuous cast or dura bar.
@@superdansilverman Thanks.
Just saw that the base is missing a piece, kind of a bummer, the assembly seems to be in pretty good nick otherwise (well, except for the apprentice marks on the table, but those come with the trade).
looking forwars to the repair on the base.
Great video Keith, just wondering why you wouldn't weld it instead of brazing it? From a shop that specializes in cast iron repair on a variety of old farm , automotive and industrial applications. We weld cast iron or cast steel with no stress cracks or any failures about 97% of the repairs undertaken !
The amount of nickel rod for a repair like that will cost an arm, a leg and a dick. Probably both of your kidneys too. :-D And not even guaranteed to work. Keith said it many times that he's much more comfortable with brazing.
Maybe for fear he would be the 3% ?
@@lesbender236 Getting that base up to brazing temp will be fun though. Maybe he'll slap it on top of his furnace that he made.
Donate 10kg of nickel rod and he might do so, at least he will appreciate it.
If he would try welding it with , I just might! You guys must be paying a huge price for your nickel rod. From your comments that's what it sounds like. Wish I knew how to post pictures on here!
Are you going to scrape the table?
just build it with braze like a boss
I bet that thing is closer to 700 lbs. I just rebuild a mill, lathe compo that was 469lbs, fully dressed and this has substantially more iron in it as far as I can tell.
Interesting piece, neat video. How did they machine the circular T-slot in the base? How did they get the milling tool into the slot that they were machining.
Hole drilled all the way thru the width of slot then slot width cutter brought up from the bottom side to proper height and then revolved to make the slot.
Invert the piece to work on it?
I'd weld that if it were me...
Then get it on a large Miller and recut the bottom where it bolts to the base of a drill...using the radius part on the top to register...
Then it could be flipped over and the bolt seats skimmed...
Adam Abom 79 need a table for his drill .You should Give your other one to him
Will you be surfacing the bottom to be all true to each other and true to the flat rotating face after you have brazed the new part on?
Shim's! Of course, that's not the way Keith does things.
Don't try to weld on a repair piece to the base plate. machine the minimum off the surface of the bottom so there is a true step. machine a whole new corner.. bolt it on from the bottom. if you machine it just right.. you should be able since the base will be sitting on top of your repair as an overlap.. not a butt joint.. it will be crazy strong. you will be able to rough the upper shape of the repair with grinders. needle scalers.. a little bondo to fill any gaps and when you paint it.. since you will be have blind holes up from the bottom or even counter sunk holes all the way thru the flange. you can bondo those up and paint it.. no repair will be seen.
Nice piece of iron, are you trying to make Brian Block jealous?
Keith: Your closing graphic needs an apostrophe in "Don't forget to subscribe"!
I think you should keep your old one for extra unless its just loaned out.
In the last video he mentioned giving it to Adam Booth to use with his newly acquired Carlton drill.
How to make icecream machin wood please
15:51 Clevis vs. Shackle... dare I poke that hornets' nest?