German magic. The land of odd size gauge blocks, sausage and a purity law to make sure the beer isn’t tampered with. Best not to ask too many questions.
Running the shop vac to capture the grinding dust is an excellent idea. Keeping that stuff out of your lungs will keep you healthy and happy for a long time and you avoid having that messy stuff all over the shop. I love the "idiot check" on the gauge block stack. Idiot checks are free and simple and are a powerful anti-bozo defense. Measure twice and cut once. It was an interesting little job and you filmed it well. Thanks for posting.
4:15 Comedy gold! I had to rewind a few times to check. Stefan, master of the deadpan delivery. I'm sure I'll find myself saying "Very useful. Slightly lacking rigidity." in the near future.
Nice job Stefan. Very interesting. I also like the abrasive sticks. I use them at work all the time along with a set of rotary tips made of the same material in different shapes for the rotary tool. Fantastic job.
Do you think your off center pulley could have caused the very slight run out in the grind? The drill press spindle probably doesn't have much if any preload in its bearings.
In hindsight that might be possible - I checked the spindle for side/side and axial play and it probably is lightly preloaded, but the small change in side-load from the o-ring could have caused that.
This could definitely be the culprit but I would also point at the rotational accuracy of the bearings themselves, the roundness of their locating bore. A different runout reading around the shaft (such as between the grinding wheel and the axis of rotation and then at 90° like in this case) would indicate the bearing ring roundness (which can also be influenced by the quill bore and exaggerated by preload and deformation conditions) while an off phase runout (in relation to the spindle rotation) reveals the ball/roller discrepancies in terms of their roundness or in their diameter along the ring's roundness. The second case would have probably been eliminated by the grinding operation as the wheel hits the same spots more than once, but that would not apply to turning operations (which is kinda interesting). PS: Can't wait to see the Super Duplex stuff finished!
@@gibbsey9579 Exactly! It would mean that the spindle was spending slightly more time in one half of the rotation than the other, resulting in more work being carried-out on the "slower" side. I'd bet that was the side that ended up lower. Love these videos! :)
It was great seeing the precision magnets being used, as I just watched that series a couple days ago, and couldn't remember them actually being used in a video.
Greatly enjoy your videos. I learn so much every time. Your very good at explaining what you are doing. Look forward to the next one. Thanks for sharing.
I saw this come up in my feed and I thought "why is it that I like this channel so much?" For whatever reason I thought "Stefan is drole", which of course means dull/boring in English, but in French it means "funny". There you have it, I like your videos because they are nerdy and dull (which I love) and funny!! Well done, love your work Stefan!!
good explanation Stefan, I did this same job in my first video with just under .0001 run out, I had replaced the shaft and ground a new taper. the bearings do seem to be creating the run out.
The runout is generated by the opposite end. The pully/belt set generating the rotation is your problem running eccentric. The action of the belt transfers to the bearing. That end is running out a considerable amount. Good video and cheers from Canada.
My drill press bearings or something is fecked.. It won't even turn anymore when I start it.. This gave me inspiration to finally do something about it.
Thanks! Röhm made a very similar one, which had Magnets built into the foot. Thats what I used as an reference. I might make another one, more precise and all hardened/ground construction.
Excellent Video! Well Explained! Liked !! By the way I came over from NYCNC when you were so nice to give a full tour of your shop to him! I subbed just now! Much Success to you!!
Wow, amzing. Greeting from and to Germany. Any suggestions how I can fix a runout of my MK2 (inner taper) spindle. It is a terrible runout of about 0.2mm right at the end of the spindle. I'd thrilled to fix my drill press (an italian BIMAK 18 CA). Thanks a lot in advance.
Really enjoy your vids, thx so much for continuing to share. Do you think there is any chance the slight variance in rotational speed on the quill from the pulley that didn't match the bore could have contributed to the run-out? Maybe I'm over or under-thinking it, but my thought was that as the quill accelerated/decelerated from the offset pulley that the contact time with the stone would vary a bit. Was the same run-out measured on the original taper/upper part of shaft?
The original taper had way more runout, about 0,03mm compared to the 0,002mm I got ;) It might be the bearings, it might be the slightly chaning sideload from the o-ring, it might be bad heat input. Lots of factors if you go bellow 0,01mm ;)
Eyeballed it ;) The radius is not realy critical - A larger radius will give you a slower rise/fall on the indicator, a very small radius will give you a very rapid rise/fall on the indicator.
It was a tricky piece to hang onto while milling the L shape. I built the comparator too. However, I use it more often as as a surface gauge with my tenths indicator. The ball bearing in the tip of the adjustment screw against the ground ball on the seat really make for smooth adjusting. Great idea.
Hi Stefan, At first I had some doubts about using the existing bearings in the quill toturn the shaft for grinding, if it were mine I would have used the situation to replace the bearings, a good time to do so, do you not agree. However as you said it a drill, I agree the run out if pretty fair for a drill. Since I had my mill (Similar to yours) I hardly use my drill. I see you do not use coolant on the grinder, I find I have to even to keep the abrasive dust down, as I didnt once and it took me ages to clean it off everything. Cheers Noel
Yes, you could hang it off the front of a surfacegrindertable, tilting the spindle downwards. Robin Renzetti showed a setup like that to regrind a surfacegrinder spindle on instagram.
any side effects of the speed variation introduced by an offset pulley? i doubt it would do much of anything since the grinding wheel surface speed is so much faster, just wondering. also 2 micron is pretty amazing for the runout of the bearings in a drill press quill and the side loading of the likely belt drive on such a long shaft up top will overwhelm those tolerances for sure unless somone decides to grind the top pulley and motor pulley and so on.
"This chuck was supplied. It's not mine"... Sure... It's for a "friend"... Just come clean Stefan. It's 2019 - we won't judge you. It's okay to use a keyed chuck. :-)
When tool to work piece clearance is critical a keyed chuck consume far less length compared to a keyless type. Another less commonly used attribute is they can be run in reverse for LH drills for example.
Larger keyed chucks make a good door stop. If my keyless Albrecht or Röhm are to long I use a ER collet chuck, shorter, better runout, better holding strength, non marring to drill-shanks.
Interesting, and niceley done! One thing that caught my attention is you mensioning the the hardness grade of the grinding stone (schleifscheibe :-) ). I use a white aluminum oxide wheel for grinding HSS lathe bits. It is a Tyrolit brand 89A46M5AV217 89= (Tyrolit specific compound?) A=Aluminum oxide 46=Grit M=Hardness I do not know if M-hardness is optimal for HSS lathe bits, but It is advertised for grinding drillbits, and drillbits might be close to lathe toolbits?? From what I can find online, hard discs is recommended for soft materials, and the other way around, soft discs for hard materials. Do not know if it's correct, but cool that you consider these things! Not everyone does!
Better to use the verjungung (?) or slope ,and simply cross multiply ,to convert to sine stack rather than do two sine conversions ( the morse taper is defined by slope not angle)
How would you go about regrinding an internal taper? I've got an Arboga drill press with a 3MT taper, which I tried to clean up by putting the spindle [rather than the quill] on the lathe using a 3MT reamer in the tailstock. Didn't go well, quite a lot of runout when I reinstalled it. Any advice would be great - before I drop £400 on a new spindle from MSC. Thanks Tom
How do you know your taper axis and your sine bar a parallel, especially since you aligned the sine bar to a slotted section of a potentially out of axis quill?
Hey Stephan, I just come across a TH-cam vid on CBN grinding wheels. Have you had any experience with them? It’s not a brand, stands for cubic boron nitride. They seem like a good option for surface grinders.
Why wouldn't this be ground between centers? Wouldn't any runout in the quill bearings add to inaccuract in the taper? Or did you chose your method as good enough for the quality of the drill press and chuck?
Another great job/video/lesson. If you know someone with a water jet cutter you can have any diameter wheel you want, as long as it is smaller than the wheel you make it from of course. 😆
Ha, the waterjet is a cool idea. I have seen people machining down grinding wheels on an old lathe with a diamond instead of a normal lathe tool. Insane mess but works.
Is that an expensive quill/spindle? It seems like a lot of time/money(I assume someone is paying you to do this?) to put into a part that looks like it goes to a fairly small and possibly cheap drill press.
Nice set-up, very much like the self-contained "calliper" Sine bar. Best regards from the UK, full metric in Engineering, apart from screwed pipe, then so is the rest of the world 💂
Like the sine bar in a box really cool and it is small perfect to us. Do not remember watching you make that years ago but you make a lot of great things so we likely forget here. Great share on the custom made grinding wheels small for you and for small uses like us, thank you for the share there. This answers our question from Facebook where we now know this is a drill press not a milling spindle no angular contacts or such the run-out you shared on Facebook makes great sense we always enjoy your accuracy so that was why the question arose. Thank you Lance & Patrick.
Isn't the dye just Prussian blue in a oil base? Edit: guess not. It's michler's ketone in hi spot blue. Still, most of the danger is in the petroleum carrier.
@@StefanGotteswinter digging deeper into the chemistry it looks like the msds I got actually listed precursors rather than what's in the final product. Looks like the dye is something akin to Victoria Blue B, so probably capable of doing some intracellular damage (it's used as a stain so has to be able to both penetrate and bind) Not a high risk or a sensitizer, and hard to place the risk vs sun exposure, but no need to take risks when gloves are available, cheap, and so much easier than worrying about staining things because you didn't scrub well enough.
Hab ich natürlich noch - Aber in letzter Zeit wenig interessante Drehmaschinenarbeit, die es wert währe zu Filmen. Teile mit zwei Absätzen und einer Durchgangsbohrung sind mäßig spannend ;)
Hi Stefan, cool. My Europa Lehrmittel book says 14.6mm for d3 (not that it is at all critical (usually)). For the benefit of the EU English readers, the book is also available in English too from them, ISBN '9 783808 519141' or "Europa-No 1910X". I grew up with the US Machinerys Handbook but in my eyes, the Europa Lehrmittel book is nicer to work with. I have no affiliation with them at all, just like their books. Cheers Peeps...
@Martin Vernon, Thanks for posting this info about the book. I was wondering where I could obtain an English version & you've provided the answer. Does this book also contain info on "Speeds & Feeds" like within the USA Machinery Handbook? regards Colin
Hi Colin, sorry, been tied up with other stuffs. Yes but not as much detail. There's all the info you need but but you need to do some math yourself, there's a chart, so you have a visual reference too. To be honest, I found a few places linked via the ubiquitous search engines providing older Machinery's Handbooks in PDF format, so I have an older one if I want more detail to browse on an iPad (don't like laptops in the workshop - swarf get's under the keytops). Hope that helps you... Cheers, Martin.
Stefan I love the accuracy of a DTI, but for centering, I really hate having to use a mirror or play at being a cpntorsionist to read it when the dial faces away. Just found out that the make a electronic DTI with remote display, and since I have not seen anyone mention this, thought you might be interested, Here's video on this - th-cam.com/video/HNIVFvsCQ1Y/w-d-xo.html John
9 thumbs down? They should always be made before a thumbs down to explain, youtube needs to get onto this. this is out of 1.7k? Thumbs down" please explain that's how we learn.
mpetersen6, I will agree with you and add one thing, there is also the F#%k wit Factor! Excellent work Stephan, I now have another project in my bucket list, A sine bar like the one you made! Cheers mate John, Australia. PS: Now there is Seven of them now, they must be breeding, lol.
Prussian Blue isn't dangerous, it's actually a medicine! (Used for heavy metal poisoning). And how much metal do you have embedded in your skin after all these years?
Haha. Only Mr Gotteswinter would be stressing over a 2 micron TIR.... Don't change Stefan, never change. You're one of a kind.
shawnhuk Renzetti would have slit his wrists over that much runout!
A bit extreme, but I have to agree. I don’t have the equipment to measure that small never mind achieve that accuracy.
Hey, always room for improvement :)
TWO MICRONS!!! Time to scrape the ways, I guess!
brilliant as always. one question: what kind of black magic is a 2.62 stack with only two blocks?!
I was here looking for this comment 😀 😀
take a 1.62mm and a 1mm gage block, haha. Or like I did, a 1.6mm and a 1.02mm block.
Or cheat and use an adjustable parallel 😋😋
Metric.
German magic. The land of odd size gauge blocks, sausage and a purity law to make sure the beer isn’t tampered with. Best not to ask too many questions.
Running the shop vac to capture the grinding dust is an excellent idea. Keeping that stuff out of your lungs will keep you healthy and happy for a long time and you avoid having that messy stuff all over the shop.
I love the "idiot check" on the gauge block stack. Idiot checks are free and simple and are a powerful anti-bozo defense. Measure twice and cut once. It was an interesting little job and you filmed it well. Thanks for posting.
4:15 Comedy gold! I had to rewind a few times to check. Stefan, master of the deadpan delivery. I'm sure I'll find myself saying "Very useful. Slightly lacking rigidity." in the near future.
Morse tapers are----never mind
had not thought about using a sine bar to set up a taper thanks very much
Nice job Stefan. Very interesting. I also like the abrasive sticks. I use them at work all the time along with a set of rotary tips made of the same material in different shapes for the rotary tool. Fantastic job.
Steve Summers 🤘🏻
Thanks Steve! Love the rotary cratex tips too - Always impressive how fast they can wear down if you hit a sharp edge the wrong way with them ;)
I've seen lapped tapers not print that well, what that tells me is the chuck manufacturer was able to match your precision. :)
Rollin' Rollin'Rollin', Move,en on, Head'em up, Pack it up, Ship it Out, RAWHIDE. Nice short, Stefan👍
Do you think your off center pulley could have caused the very slight run out in the grind? The drill press spindle probably doesn't have much if any preload in its bearings.
In hindsight that might be possible - I checked the spindle for side/side and axial play and it probably is lightly preloaded, but the small change in side-load from the o-ring could have caused that.
.002mm or .0001 is most likely way better than the the drill chuck supplied
This could definitely be the culprit but I would also point at the rotational accuracy of the bearings themselves, the roundness of their locating bore. A different runout reading around the shaft (such as between the grinding wheel and the axis of rotation and then at 90° like in this case) would indicate the bearing ring roundness (which can also be influenced by the quill bore and exaggerated by preload and deformation conditions) while an off phase runout (in relation to the spindle rotation) reveals the ball/roller discrepancies in terms of their roundness or in their diameter along the ring's roundness. The second case would have probably been eliminated by the grinding operation as the wheel hits the same spots more than once, but that would not apply to turning operations (which is kinda interesting).
PS: Can't wait to see the Super Duplex stuff finished!
Seems to me the offset pulley would have meant the spindle speed was not constant, and this variation may have caused the run out.
@@gibbsey9579 Exactly! It would mean that the spindle was spending slightly more time in one half of the rotation than the other, resulting in more work being carried-out on the "slower" side. I'd bet that was the side that ended up lower.
Love these videos! :)
Beautiful attention to detail as always.
I could watch your content all day, thank you for sharing.
I have one of those chucks with a JT6 taper that has a high spot in the middle. Very difficult to fit :)
Stefan, I cracked up at 7:30 when you said the error was aaah pretty much ‘nothing”! Haha. Awesome video yet again.
It was great seeing the precision magnets being used, as I just watched that series a couple days ago, and couldn't remember them actually being used in a video.
Always a pleasure to watch you work on a project. Thank you.
Great video as always.
I like that little sine bar.
Greatly enjoy your videos. I learn so much every time. Your very good at explaining what you are doing. Look forward to the next one. Thanks for sharing.
Great video you made it look so easy.
Thanks! It is suprisingly simple ;)
I saw this come up in my feed and I thought "why is it that I like this channel so much?" For whatever reason I thought "Stefan is drole", which of course means dull/boring in English, but in French it means "funny". There you have it, I like your videos because they are nerdy and dull (which I love) and funny!! Well done, love your work Stefan!!
Excellent demonstration but can't help but wonder why you left that white sticker on the grinding wheel?
These custom jobs you do are really fun to watch.
good explanation Stefan, I did this same job in my first video with just under .0001 run out, I had replaced the shaft and ground a new taper. the bearings do seem to be creating the run out.
The runout is generated by the opposite end. The pully/belt set generating the rotation is your problem running eccentric. The action of the belt transfers to the bearing. That end is running out a considerable amount. Good video and cheers from Canada.
My drill press bearings or something is fecked.. It won't even turn anymore when I start it.. This gave me inspiration to finally do something about it.
"Healing bench"... Unlike AvE's yours actually is used for making things better.
"euthanasia" is considered a medical procedure....
The sine bar is a sweet piece of work.
Thank you!
Enjoyed...great video..discussion/demonstration/build....like the sine bar, your design or copy of a product on the market?
Thanks!
Röhm made a very similar one, which had Magnets built into the foot. Thats what I used as an reference. I might make another one, more precise and all hardened/ground construction.
Excellent Video! Well Explained! Liked !! By the way I came over from NYCNC when you were so nice to give a full tour of your shop to him! I subbed just now! Much Success to you!!
Wow, amzing. Greeting from and to Germany. Any suggestions how I can fix a runout of my MK2 (inner taper) spindle. It is a terrible runout of about 0.2mm right at the end of the spindle. I'd thrilled to fix my drill press (an italian BIMAK 18 CA). Thanks a lot in advance.
Really enjoy your vids, thx so much for continuing to share. Do you think there is any chance the slight variance in rotational speed on the quill from the pulley that didn't match the bore could have contributed to the run-out? Maybe I'm over or under-thinking it, but my thought was that as the quill accelerated/decelerated from the offset pulley that the contact time with the stone would vary a bit. Was the same run-out measured on the original taper/upper part of shaft?
The original taper had way more runout, about 0,03mm compared to the 0,002mm I got ;)
It might be the bearings, it might be the slightly chaning sideload from the o-ring, it might be bad heat input. Lots of factors if you go bellow 0,01mm ;)
Indeed! The result was very good. I think I can see the runout on my cheap drill press with just my eye :)
Wow, love that sine bar! Nice.
Looks plenty good to me! I am fussing with .05mm run out on my 1 meter chuck on my lathe. While likely not bad I feel it could be better. :-)
Stefan, when you built your squareness comparator, how did you determine what the radius of the toe should be? Thank you!
Eyeballed it ;)
The radius is not realy critical - A larger radius will give you a slower rise/fall on the indicator, a very small radius will give you a very rapid rise/fall on the indicator.
@@StefanGotteswinterThank you sir! That is what I was wondering. Excellent work as always.
It was a tricky piece to hang onto while milling the L shape. I built the comparator too. However, I use it more often as as a surface gauge with my tenths indicator. The ball bearing in the tip of the adjustment screw against the ground ball on the seat really make for smooth adjusting. Great idea.
Yet another superior video, Herr Gotteswinter!
Hi Stefan,
At first I had some doubts about using the existing bearings in the quill toturn the shaft for grinding, if it were mine I would have used the situation to replace the bearings, a good time to do so, do you not agree.
However as you said it a drill, I agree the run out if pretty fair for a drill. Since I had my mill (Similar to yours) I hardly use my drill.
I see you do not use coolant on the grinder, I find I have to even to keep the abrasive dust down, as I didnt once and it took me ages to clean it off everything.
Cheers
Noel
very cool grinding set up.
T&c grinder is a versatile machine. I guess you could have also used the surface grinder with a different setup? Great video.
Yes, you could hang it off the front of a surfacegrindertable, tilting the spindle downwards. Robin Renzetti showed a setup like that to regrind a surfacegrinder spindle on instagram.
any side effects of the speed variation introduced by an offset pulley? i doubt it would do much of anything since the grinding wheel surface speed is so much faster, just wondering.
also 2 micron is pretty amazing for the runout of the bearings in a drill press quill and the side loading of the likely belt drive on such a long shaft up top will overwhelm those tolerances for sure unless somone decides to grind the top pulley and motor pulley and so on.
"This chuck was supplied. It's not mine"... Sure... It's for a "friend"... Just come clean Stefan. It's 2019 - we won't judge you. It's okay to use a keyed chuck. :-)
I realy dont own a keyed chuck :D
Haha nice one!
When tool to work piece clearance is critical a keyed chuck consume far less length compared to a keyless type. Another less commonly used attribute is they can be run in reverse for LH drills for example.
And a ER series collet takes up even less room. Badda boom. Game ,set, match. Plus it holds better and runs truer
Larger keyed chucks make a good door stop.
If my keyless Albrecht or Röhm are to long I use a ER collet chuck, shorter, better runout, better holding strength, non marring to drill-shanks.
Very nice job Stefan good video!
I'd be ecstatic with 2 microns of run out on my drill press! :-)
Interesting, and niceley done! One thing that caught my attention is you mensioning the the hardness grade of the grinding stone (schleifscheibe :-) ).
I use a white aluminum oxide wheel for grinding HSS lathe bits. It is a Tyrolit brand 89A46M5AV217
89= (Tyrolit specific compound?)
A=Aluminum oxide
46=Grit
M=Hardness
I do not know if M-hardness is optimal for HSS lathe bits, but It is advertised for grinding drillbits, and drillbits might be close to lathe toolbits??
From what I can find online, hard discs is recommended for soft materials, and the other way around, soft discs for hard materials.
Do not know if it's correct, but cool that you consider these things!
Not everyone does!
Better to use the verjungung (?) or slope ,and simply cross multiply ,to convert to sine stack rather than do two sine conversions ( the morse taper is defined by slope not angle)
Yes, that would be more correct - But without doing the math, on such a short taper it will not make a noticeable difference ;)
What a clever setup
How would you go about regrinding an internal taper? I've got an Arboga drill press with a 3MT taper, which I tried to clean up by putting the spindle [rather than the quill] on the lathe using a 3MT reamer in the tailstock. Didn't go well, quite a lot of runout when I reinstalled it. Any advice would be great - before I drop £400 on a new spindle from MSC. Thanks Tom
Nice job! Nice setup Stefan!
Steve
Thanks Steve!
Stefan, chance you could share the title of your German Machinist’s Handbook you feature in some of your videos?
The title is on the cover of the book.
"Tabellenbuch Metall" by Europa Verlag.
English version: Mechanical and Metal Trades Handbook
How do you know your taper axis and your sine bar a parallel, especially since you aligned the sine bar to a slotted section of a potentially out of axis quill?
Excellent video Stefan!
Very enjoyable and informative! Thanks for sharing
Hey Stephan, I just come across a TH-cam vid on CBN grinding wheels. Have you had any experience with them? It’s not a brand, stands for cubic boron nitride. They seem like a good option for surface grinders.
As always grate job man keep up the grate work
Hallo Stefan,
Denkst du man könnte das selbe auf der Deckel S1 mit „Bordmitteln“ hinbekommen?
Defekte Spindel + Deckel S1 vorhanden ;)
This is fantastic
Briljant as usual!
is the brand MAHR digital micrometer ex any good compare to mitutoyo?
Nice work Stefan. Thanks
Why wouldn't this be ground between centers? Wouldn't any runout in the quill bearings add to inaccuract in the taper? Or did you chose your method as good enough for the quality of the drill press and chuck?
The centers on that spindle are heavily damaged, no way to refurbish them without a lot of work.
Understood.
Looks good. Can I send you my drill press arbor?
perfect work, brilliant. 2.62 in 2 gauge blocks? I must of heard you wrong will watch again loved it.
Yes, 1,6mm and 1,02mm :)
Another great job/video/lesson.
If you know someone with a water jet cutter you can have any diameter wheel you want, as long as it is smaller than the wheel you make it from of course. 😆
Ha, the waterjet is a cool idea. I have seen people machining down grinding wheels on an old lathe with a diamond instead of a normal lathe tool. Insane mess but works.
Stefan Gotteswinter not my idea I got it from a Dan Gelbart video. If you haven't heard of him, watch his last on his homemade granite bed lathe.👍
@@chrisstephens6673 Oh right, he uses the waterjet for everything :D
Stefan Gotteswinter well if you had his millions wouldn't you? Jealous me?damn right!!!
Nice video, love the filmic qualities of the videography. DSLR is a bit of a PITA, but beautiful results!
Hey, could you please provide info for your reference book? Looks like pretty useful reference.
Regards
Stefan, perhaps the correct tapered length is 25.4 mm. ;>D
thats obsolete 😎
Is that an expensive quill/spindle? It seems like a lot of time/money(I assume someone is paying you to do this?) to put into a part that looks like it goes to a fairly small and possibly cheap drill press.
Nice set-up, very much like the self-contained "calliper" Sine bar.
Best regards from the UK, full metric in Engineering, apart from screwed pipe, then so is the rest of the world 💂
As usual, great job Bud!
Nice job Stefan. regards from the UK
"very useful, slightly lacking rigidity." taken me a bit to get to this, but i need concentration to watch and learn stuff. thanks for a great video
Thank you Stefan
Enjoyed and new information always. Thank you very much !
Wow! I just realised I’ve never heard a German say GMBH before!
th-cam.com/video/L3J5rRhpO00/w-d-xo.html 8:50 in case anyone was wondering.
John Kha 👍
@Matt
It's just "Gay-Em-Bay-Hah." German is so easy, right Stefan?
Like the sine bar in a box really cool and it is small perfect to us. Do not remember watching you make that years ago but you make a lot of great things so we likely forget here. Great share on the custom made grinding wheels small for you and for small uses like us, thank you for the share there. This answers our question from Facebook where we now know this is a drill press not a milling spindle no angular contacts or such the run-out you shared on Facebook makes great sense we always enjoy your accuracy so that was why the question arose. Thank you Lance & Patrick.
Really nice job Stefan! :)
Isn't the dye just Prussian blue in a oil base?
Edit: guess not. It's michler's ketone in hi spot blue. Still, most of the danger is in the petroleum carrier.
Ketone*
As far as I understand, the Ketone is not as good for you.
@@xenonram how the f did I spell that keytone the first time round?....
@@StefanGotteswinter digging deeper into the chemistry it looks like the msds I got actually listed precursors rather than what's in the final product. Looks like the dye is something akin to Victoria Blue B, so probably capable of doing some intracellular damage (it's used as a stain so has to be able to both penetrate and bind)
Not a high risk or a sensitizer, and hard to place the risk vs sun exposure, but no need to take risks when gloves are available, cheap, and so much easier than worrying about staining things because you didn't scrub well enough.
Hi, is it possible to buy that grinding wheels online ?
Perfect! Thanks for the video.
Was the diameter in the book not 14.6? No one has commented that so maybe I'm seeing things...
Yes
Tolle! Es freut mich. Danke schoen, Stefan!
Another great video.
When You do this, it always look so simple. When I do... euh, never mind.
me too
Thx gtswr!
Gotta be careful wording the nice job comment here, " Nice job grinding his shaft " might get taken the wrong way.
I laughed at this comment for a good 5 minutes. Thank you sir.
@@therealstubot Your welcome.
@@RichardHeadGaming Ouch!! :) from the name I guess your German, clearly with a good grounding in Brit sense of humour :)
Hast du eigentlich deine drehmaschine noch?
Die kommt in den Videos gar nicht mehr vor.
Hab ich natürlich noch - Aber in letzter Zeit wenig interessante Drehmaschinenarbeit, die es wert währe zu Filmen.
Teile mit zwei Absätzen und einer Durchgangsbohrung sind mäßig spannend ;)
Hi Stefan, cool. My Europa Lehrmittel book says 14.6mm for d3 (not that it is at all critical (usually)). For the benefit of the EU English readers, the book is also available in English too from them, ISBN '9 783808 519141' or "Europa-No 1910X". I grew up with the US Machinerys Handbook but in my eyes, the Europa Lehrmittel book is nicer to work with. I have no affiliation with them at all, just like their books. Cheers Peeps...
@Martin Vernon, Thanks for posting this info about the book.
I was wondering where I could obtain an English version & you've provided the answer.
Does this book also contain info on "Speeds & Feeds" like within the USA Machinery Handbook?
regards Colin
Hi Colin, sorry, been tied up with other stuffs. Yes but not as much detail. There's all the info you need but but you need to do some math yourself, there's a chart, so you have a visual reference too. To be honest, I found a few places linked via the ubiquitous search engines providing older Machinery's Handbooks in PDF format, so I have an older one if I want more detail to browse on an iPad (don't like laptops in the workshop - swarf get's under the keytops). Hope that helps you... Cheers, Martin.
Stefan
I love the accuracy of a DTI, but for centering, I really hate having to use a mirror or play at being a cpntorsionist to read it when the dial faces away. Just found out that the make a electronic DTI with remote display, and since I have not seen anyone mention this, thought you might be interested, Here's video on this -
th-cam.com/video/HNIVFvsCQ1Y/w-d-xo.html
John
Nice work Stefan!
ATB, Robin
Thanks Robin!
عمل جيد وشكرا على هذا الفيديو القيم
OH for shame...2 microns out from RPM change due to a non-concentric pulley.... ;-) Good enough for a drill press.
Hoffentlich war es ein Röhm Futter bei dem Aufwand :D
gute arbeit.
Kann man ihnen morgen an der Messe in Leipzig treffen?
Nein.
sehr gut
Ich weiss ja nicht...irgendwie passt die viele Muehe nicht recht zu dem Futter :-), vielleicht raetst Du ihm zu nem anderen.
Ich glaub nicht, dass das Futter draufbleibt ;)
9 thumbs down? They should always be made before a thumbs down to explain, youtube needs to get onto this. this is out of 1.7k? Thumbs down" please explain that's how we learn.
Awesome video Stefan...but...I always thought you were a HP calculator guy...Casio?? really? :-)
I have no love vor RPN at all. Casio all day long :)
Geil Stefan!
2 Micron TIR out and you are complainig? Oh My God!
Well, there is always room for improvement.
Knew an Asian guy who nearly performed ritual suicide over 2 freaking microns.
1.431 degrees = 0.300" per foot.
The two thumbs down have to be jealousy
LOL :D
mpetersen6, I will agree with you and add one thing, there is also the F#%k wit Factor!
Excellent work Stephan, I now have another project in my bucket list, A sine bar like the one you made! Cheers mate John, Australia.
PS: Now there is Seven of them now, they must be breeding, lol.
@@joandar1
Up to right. They must be Flat Earth are, aka flattards
Prussian Blue isn't dangerous, it's actually a medicine! (Used for heavy metal poisoning). And how much metal do you have embedded in your skin after all these years?