WRT moving the wheel & tire assembly on/off the hubs...I learned from the tire shop guys that regular round point shovel is almost a prefect tool. Thin, slides easily, easy to rock in & out as well as up and down, and the point catches the tire enough that you can use it to rotate the wheel into position.
I recently purchased a Class A motorhome and plan on extensive travelling around the country. I wanted a spare tire and the ability to change it rather than relying on road assistance. What a task to acquire all of the necessary equipment to be able to change out a tire on a 22,000lb+ rig on an uncertain area of road. I ended up with a torque multiplier by Klutch from Northern Tools instead of your tree size torque wrench. I did try some air impact guns and heavy duty cordless options, but they couldn't free up the lugs. Even with penetrating oil and some good whacks. The multiplier makes easy work to crack them loose and I kept the cordless to use once their loose. Thanks for sharing your video. There's not too much about this including air bags and not having hydraulic levelers.
Your issues with pneumatic and electric impacts are why I did a lot of digging before settling on the DeWalt I got. Your lugs are probably rated the same as mine at 400-450 ft-lbs. This DeWalt impact I initiall bought to make the lugs easier has proven to be my new favorite tool, at least for working on the RV, and has made quick work of anything I can get it on. Well, almost anything, I've got an upcoming video that will show the one nut it couldn't break. But there's nothing wrong with a torque multiplier and doing it manually, and using a smaller torque wrench at that. I'll probably buy a torque multiplier at some point too. But, if you don't do as much work on your bus as I do, it matters less. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Great video and look forward to your content. My suggestion for wheel removal would be to get a tire iron and insert it between the tire and ground slightly lift and walk the tire off the hub.
That's on the list! Right now I have a planned video on the operation of the slides and "level low" system, but that won't go as much into the specific mechanics of it (at least not yet).
I am curious about something. I am changing out my front airbags and shocks on a 02 CC and saw where your jacking point is behind the front wheels on the cross member that also has the lower A arms attached to it although you are out to the end of that cross brace. l looked closely at it and it goes up to the frame. I wanted to confirm so I called Prevost Pass and they said that wasn't strong enough to support the load, I found this hard to believe as it is part of the frame structure, any thought on this?
The first thing I'd suggest would be to go to prevostcar.com and download the maintenance manual for your coach. If you aren't familiar, they're available on there free and you don't need an account. In there is a diagram that shows the allowed jacking points for your coach. If I'm understanding your description correctly, that sounds like an approved jacking location that I've used on my bus as well. I haven't talked to Prevost Pass before, but it's possible that the person either wasn't familiar with your coach or misunderstood your description, but the manual is pretty clear on it. I've heard mixed reviews from people who've called Pass with questions, I'm not sure how familiar the people they have answering the phone are with our older coaches at this point vs. the newer ones that the commercial operators are running. If you're changing out your airbags and shocks, I have videos on both of those and would encourage you to check them out. Both are pretty straightforward jobs however both also had a few gotchas, especially the front springs/shocks. Make sure you get the "upgraded" front springs which are a bit larger and will do a better job of supporting the front end, especially when manually raising it. I'd also suggest changing out the sway bar end link bushings (I have a video on that, too). My bus rides and drives much better after all of that work.
@@TedsGarage I looked closely at your video and we are talking the same place. But I have the owners manual and the is no mention of that spot for jacking, all it list is the two rectangular tubing with the half inch plate on the bottom and I believe these are the ones you had your floor jack on to raise the tire. Those would be fine to change a tire but not practical for the air bags.
@@jimpfennigs9410 I double checked in the owners manual and maintenance manual (section 18, Body) and as I read both of those documents, those locations are listed as appropriate jacking points. I'm looking at Section 18, Body, of the maintenance manual, Figure 50, which points to jacking points on the frame in those locations. Figure 51 then also shows the jacking points on the IFS axle. I'm seeing the same figures in the owners manual as well. Looking at it structurally, it definitely looks like a jacking point to me and looks strong enough, as well as appearing to be called out in the manual. I have had no issues with it thus far. Hope this helps! 🙂
@@antonkadantsev7737 I wonder of the disc brakes were an optional upgrade at the time? Would make sense. The disc brakes still have a delay since it's air brakes but they do act quicker than the drum brakes on my previous RV.
WRT moving the wheel & tire assembly on/off the hubs...I learned from the tire shop guys that regular round point shovel is almost a prefect tool. Thin, slides easily, easy to rock in & out as well as up and down, and the point catches the tire enough that you can use it to rotate the wheel into position.
That’s a good tip, I’ll have to try that.
I bet not one out of a hundred prevost owners do the work you do. Great job dude
Thanks!
I recently purchased a Class A motorhome and plan on extensive travelling around the country. I wanted a spare tire and the ability to change it rather than relying on road assistance. What a task to acquire all of the necessary equipment to be able to change out a tire on a 22,000lb+ rig on an uncertain area of road. I ended up with a torque multiplier by Klutch from Northern Tools instead of your tree size torque wrench. I did try some air impact guns and heavy duty cordless options, but they couldn't free up the lugs. Even with penetrating oil and some good whacks. The multiplier makes easy work to crack them loose and I kept the cordless to use once their loose. Thanks for sharing your video. There's not too much about this including air bags and not having hydraulic levelers.
Your issues with pneumatic and electric impacts are why I did a lot of digging before settling on the DeWalt I got. Your lugs are probably rated the same as mine at 400-450 ft-lbs. This DeWalt impact I initiall bought to make the lugs easier has proven to be my new favorite tool, at least for working on the RV, and has made quick work of anything I can get it on. Well, almost anything, I've got an upcoming video that will show the one nut it couldn't break. But there's nothing wrong with a torque multiplier and doing it manually, and using a smaller torque wrench at that. I'll probably buy a torque multiplier at some point too.
But, if you don't do as much work on your bus as I do, it matters less. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Great video and look forward to your content. My suggestion for wheel removal would be to get a tire iron and insert it between the tire and ground slightly lift and walk the tire off the hub.
That’s excellent advice and something I should’ve added in the video. I did that on some other tires just didn’t end up recording those.
Looking forward to a video on the air leveling system
That's on the list!
Right now I have a planned video on the operation of the slides and "level low" system, but that won't go as much into the specific mechanics of it (at least not yet).
Great job looking forward to more content.
Thank you!
Have you ever used one of the torque limiting extentions for use with impact guns? Supposed to stop tightening at a specified torque.
I haven’t, Tim. I should look into those.
I have a 2004 xL2. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Do you know of a way to clean the fuel injectors and other engine common issues?
great video. I really appreciate your work. What type of oil do the hubs take?
The Prevost manual details it. I used 85W-140 before I had read as much into the manual, but 75W-90 is fine too.
what type of oil do the hubs take?
how do you get the front bumper to roll out
I am curious about something. I am changing out my front airbags and shocks on a 02 CC and saw where your jacking point is behind the front wheels on the cross member that also has the lower A arms attached to it although you are out to the end of that cross brace. l looked closely at it and it goes up to the frame. I wanted to confirm so I called Prevost Pass and they said that wasn't strong enough to support the load, I found this hard to believe as it is part of the frame structure, any thought on this?
The first thing I'd suggest would be to go to prevostcar.com and download the maintenance manual for your coach. If you aren't familiar, they're available on there free and you don't need an account. In there is a diagram that shows the allowed jacking points for your coach. If I'm understanding your description correctly, that sounds like an approved jacking location that I've used on my bus as well.
I haven't talked to Prevost Pass before, but it's possible that the person either wasn't familiar with your coach or misunderstood your description, but the manual is pretty clear on it. I've heard mixed reviews from people who've called Pass with questions, I'm not sure how familiar the people they have answering the phone are with our older coaches at this point vs. the newer ones that the commercial operators are running.
If you're changing out your airbags and shocks, I have videos on both of those and would encourage you to check them out. Both are pretty straightforward jobs however both also had a few gotchas, especially the front springs/shocks. Make sure you get the "upgraded" front springs which are a bit larger and will do a better job of supporting the front end, especially when manually raising it.
I'd also suggest changing out the sway bar end link bushings (I have a video on that, too). My bus rides and drives much better after all of that work.
@@TedsGarage I looked closely at your video and we are talking the same place. But I have the owners manual and the is no mention of that spot for jacking, all it list is the two rectangular tubing with the half inch plate on the bottom and I believe these are the ones you had your floor jack on to raise the tire. Those would be fine to change a tire but not practical for the air bags.
@@jimpfennigs9410 I double checked in the owners manual and maintenance manual (section 18, Body) and as I read both of those documents, those locations are listed as appropriate jacking points. I'm looking at Section 18, Body, of the maintenance manual, Figure 50, which points to jacking points on the frame in those locations. Figure 51 then also shows the jacking points on the IFS axle. I'm seeing the same figures in the owners manual as well. Looking at it structurally, it definitely looks like a jacking point to me and looks strong enough, as well as appearing to be called out in the manual. I have had no issues with it thus far. Hope this helps! 🙂
Wow, disc brakes. That's surprising. I have a 2000 xl2 entertainment and mine are drums.
That is interesting. I don't know when they made the changeover, but I'm happy to have discs.
@@TedsGarageyeah that’s curious. I got the whole shabang with dd3 cylinders. Gives me the usual delay in braking I have to account for
@@antonkadantsev7737 I wonder of the disc brakes were an optional upgrade at the time? Would make sense. The disc brakes still have a delay since it's air brakes but they do act quicker than the drum brakes on my previous RV.