One of the best automotive channels on TH-cam! As a new shop owner, I will be requesting that any employees I have, to buy your book and subscription to your channel or I will buy it for them. The knowledge you provide us with in just one video is priceless! Hope you get to feeling better Paul and the rest of your family.
I gotta get through my long ass factory training before my shop will buy it for me I guess I see the point from their perspective but a lot of it is nonsense if you don’t know the difference between a screwdriver and ratchet you probably shouldn’t be working on someone else’s vehicle
@johnasosajr have them contact me (shop manager or owner) and lets get you set up with SD Premium. It's only $132 for the year! You can't take a single 4 hour class for that much in the aftermarket and you'll have access to over 400 hours of material. www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html Hope to see you there soon!
I guess sensor is showing absolute pressure that is why it is 1 atm (15 psi) higher than mechanical gauge (external gauge unplugged will show 0 psi and electronic will show atmosperic pressure). Thanks for the good work Paul! Love your videos
Hmmm. So in other words, pressure sensors whose values agree with that on the gauge read gauge pressure while those which read about 15PSI higher are outputting absolute pressure. Thanks!
Fallen for something like this on LPG system when tank was empty but level sensor was fixed full. Fuel psi was 15 as it was electronically ready atmosphere.
Maybe the reason the pressure pid shows higher than what is on your gauge because the type of pressure sensor that is being used. If it is an absolute pressure sensor, the PCM is going to see gauge pressure + atmospheric pressure.
Great catch. That make a lot of sense. You could prove it by disabling the fuel system and have no pressure in the system, and then see what the scan data shows. I would expect 14.7psi or so.
Thank you Danners. Your approximate 15 psi difference between the fuel pressure gauge reading and scan data reading is the scan data is absolute pressure. To prove that you can pull fuel pump fuse or relay, while engine is running until it stalls. Your fuel supply pressure live data will read approximately 15 psiA, while your pressure gauge would read 0 psiG.
The sensor looks like it may be an absolute pressure where as the gauge is "gauge pressure". The absolute pressure sensor would show around 14.5 psi as its atmospheric "ZERO" and 0psi would be a perfect Vacuum.
You guys are the best. If I had the $ I’d relocate you to my state. With a huge contract and state of the art diagnostic/repair shop. Too bad I’m not a millionaire. I wish mechanics around the world had your knowledge and care for the customer. You guys are very trustworthy. I’ve never met a shop like this near me. They’re always trying to just take your money. God forbid if you’re woman or elderly. This is not all repair shops there are some that care. But not enough. For guys like me who can take apart engines and repair but have trouble with diagnostics, this channel is the ultimate.
I thank God for you Danner plus all your team because your really a blessing to us young tech Your really a Genius and thanks for your shared knowledge Sir! Wish you quick recovery This is BULASIO from Uganda
Very cool video. So hard to explain this stuff to a customer. Being at a trusted private shop now for me its much easier to deal with these issues. But the conversation of it needs "this" sensor but may need further repairs is always painful. I try to remember we're all in this together, talking down about other shops just confirms even further the cust perception that "I'm getting ripped off". The few poison the well for the many, and I think most techs have good intentions but just don't have the training to correctly diag systems.
I watch several auto repair channels and there is not too much on GDI systems out there yet. Thank you so much for posting this and the info from Brian was gold. All of you please get well soon. My wife did the same thing to me. She was coughing and telling me don't worry, it's only sinus stuff. You won't catch anything. In about 3 days I felt like I had the plague for the next 3 weeks. 🤒😵🤧
Funny I ran across this video after searching Phoenix Plus scanners. I have the same car doing the same thing and it acted like a fuel pressure issue or restriction- meaning it ran better as I lifted off the pedal in test drive. But I couldn’t verify because I didn’t have test port adapter for low side. I ordered that and then my Autel broke before I could get back to it. I ordered a Phoenix Plus and this video was suggested under your review. Wish I’d found it the first time I tangled with that car but now I’m excited to get back.
Hi Paul, if you go to pinpoint test in alldata or Mitchell , go to pinpoint test HP and at HP3 it will say to compare FLP pid to the mechanical gauge, and it says if it is within 22 psi then its ok. If not replace the FLP sensor. I hope that helps. Thanks Paul, great video.
Great video again, finally catching up with you guys after almost finishing an eight month home renovation. Nice catch on this one, nice assist by your brother and in the net by Paul!
Great content as always. Easy and not complicated but it's all about following everything we've learned up to this point and putting to use. Another great example of pressure sensors! Commend you for putting out content even under the weather.
I think a test drive before working on a vehicle is very important. Paying close attention to what the vehicle is doing right or wrong. Not to beat a dead horse but I know you and you brother have complete confidence in each other. I was thinking of a new tech working on a vehicle with only the information from the customer or the shop Forman. A test drive before and after the repairs is so important. We have all test drove a vehicle after repairs and on that test drive the vehicle does something that seems wrong. In your mind you might be thinking I wonder if it did that before I worked on it. That's what I was trying to put out there. I have been working on vehicles and equipment for 40 years and I feel I still don't know enough but thanks to you I know a lot more.
Absolute and gauge pressure will be 15-20 PSI difference. I learned about this on a Volvo with a DC (Duty Cycle) NON GDI fuel pump system and did a scan tool pressure test. Service info and scan tool test told me about it and researched told me also. Funny thing it kept throwing fuel pressure sensor codes. Cause the pump was worn so DC was at like 50%, to maintain desired PSI. With a new pump DC came down to 20-30%(Been 5 years so don't remember exact # now). Vehicle was at 2 shops and the dealer before it came to me. All replaced the sensor and filter. Dealer wanted to put a computer in it.
Even when you're not sick, you guys are all fully sick, but in a good way🤣 Thanks Paul, Caleb and Jim for all you do for us out here in TH-cam land and SDP land. Hope you're all feeling better soon👍🇦🇺
Low pressure fuel pressure sensor (LPFS) is not likely an absolute press-sensor, there is no need for that value. What most people did not realize is that, any added hose length, Tee fittings and orifice produces HEAD or restriction to flow and will create a lower reading on the mechanical-capillary gauge we use to troubleshoot, even assuming that the capillary gauge is as "accurate" as the all electric LPFS. Position of the LPFS also matters. Some cars has its LPFS sensor at the fuel filter output at the fuel tank and we read our pressure at close to the input of the HP fuel pump at the engine . This extra distance of approx 4 meters and elevation of approx 50cm LPFS is reading adds to HEAD and read as higher pressure. And then we add skinny hoses and Tee fittings to our mechanical capillary gauge with extra 50cm length, hence our mechanical-capillary gauge will read even lower pressure. If one wants to read pressure equally as possible on all instruments/sensors which are not taken from the same port, it has to be static reading with pressure raised slowly and not while engine is running, assuming there is no check-valve involved. Often electronic LPFS is temperature compensated while our mechanical-capillary gauge is not, there goes some more deviation. Mechanical-capillary gauge by design is most accurate at the middle sweep range, that is given. So a 145pis gauge is most accurate at its 70-80 psi range. On my Mercedes W212 M276 3.0TT engine, its LPFS is at the fuel tank at the filter body, reading filtered output. The sensing/reading port for mechanical-capillary gauge is at engine Bank 2, so 0.8 to 0.9 BAR lower pressure I am reading compared to Xentry scanner LPFS value is acceptable. I use 50cm hose for the mechanical-capillary gauge and able to place it near engine fan shroud, so that it is safer if any leak occurs because turbocharger is close by if leak occurs at gauge, while gauge is on the engine Vee. If anyone has a swimming pool with decent good twin filter system of sand filter + cartridge filter and pressure gauges at the pump output, one can see various pressure differences when system is running, all produced by resistance or HEAD from either filter media clean/dirty, pipe length, elbow, valves, check vales and all other related HEAD or resistance a fluid delivery system will encounter.
Agree with your first statement. What would be the need for an absolute psi sensor here. This low side pressure is clearly not critical that it needs to be an exact amount as we are not supplying rail psi with it like on a port injection system. And location of the psi sensor is certainly a factor, especially on this set up! I would argue that my gauge is not a big factor here as I've used this same set up a thousand times on port injection systems and have exact psi specs with it. Thanks for the comments and info!
@@ScannerDanner I do not know what is the minimum input pressure for this Ford's HP fuel pump requires, but on my M276.820 its a Bosch 200 BAR (3,000psi) unit which expects 4 BAR ( 60psi) minimum at its input at maximum fuel burn. However, my LP fuel pump is 3 phase variable speed, so testing LP fuel pressure need me to do WOT at 1st and 2nd gear to see real performance of the LP fuel pump as the fuel flow mapping won't be all out during stationary revving. Same design to the Ford HP pump for its Normally Open fuel quantity control valve though. However, I like seeing most american cars are generous for their data perimeter. For reason unknown Mercedes for M276.820 engine ( Bosch ECM MED17.7 ) is stingy for a few important perimeters. There is no desired LP fuel pressure and HP fuel pressure information, DUGGHH !!! I knew about the 4 BAR minimum pressure from Bosch datasheet of the HP pump family used on my engine, which is the HDP5 family. Single piston type. I am hoping someday you will scope the HP fuel pump fuel quantity valve and break down its data value vs actual mechanical action which is quite complex and you are very good with explanation of such system and knowing your mind-set : forever wanting to learn more, it will be awesome this information coming from you. Some OE like Mercedes call it actuation angle while Ford call it by % of actuation. The complex part is the real actuation timing of the single piston fuel quantity valve of the HP pump vs the camshaft's lobe for the HP fuel pump pumping. In a 3 fuel lobes camshaft scenario there will be 120 degrees of camshaft revolution per lobe BDC>>TDC>>BDC, but only 60 degrees is able to pressurize the fuel, the upward stroke of the lobe BDC to TDC. The other 60 degrees TDC to BDC is for "suction". VVT system added complexity when measuring these as camshaft angle keeps changing in respect to crankshaft angle. Hence it takes an excellent teacher like yourself to dig in deeper into this GDI 101. A delay in the activation of the electromagnetic coil of the HP pump fuel quantity valve from degreading coil insulation or whatnot, but seemingly % is achieved* ( *but at wrong camshaft lobe position ) say in a Ford GDI, can really ruin a troubleshooting day. If total dead fuel quantity valve is easy to troubleshoot. Okey dokey, thanks Paul for the excellent video , as always.
Don't just forget about the grill shutter. Ive had one where i was chasing engine faults that didn't make sense. Engine dying while idle, not starting, not charging, charging too much, instrument cluster going crazy. It was hard to drive it in to the workshop and the exterior lights also blinked on and off. The grill shutter was full of water and was directly on the lin bus line and messing everything up. Every problem went away pulling and drying the plug since it was dripping wet, and with a new shutter every code went away and i only got code for it once, it never reappeared after deleting codes the first time but luckily i had printed out all the first codes and checked it not too long after in the diagnostic and had 1 more car with just charging fault even tho it was charging, same part changed fixed it
Thanks for sharing Paul. Don’t know if you follow Sean toppling podcast but he had a good fuel pressure problem on a 3.5 Honda engine which turned out to be skipped tooth on the Cam which drives the pump. It as a good one. All of you get well soon Artie 🇺🇸😊
The 15PSI difference is normal, Ford and volvo (from my knowledge) use absolute pressure sensors for low side fuel. Usually it is written in the fuel pressure sensor info. Almost got my butt kicked from that once hahaha the TSB is most probably because too many techs thought the sensor was faulty when it wasnt.
You are correct absolute and gauge pressure is 15-20 PSI difference. I already commented on this video, but I learned this on valvo service info when doing scan tool pressure test.
I also suspect some sort of attenuating or amplifying harmonic between the electrical signals and the mechanical action of the gauge( think of the Tacoma Bridge). Anyway, it just doesn't matter but thanks for the reply.
I hope u get well soon 🔜... again.. another great video u have no idea how helpful you are and all of your knowledge...great tip from Brian at the end!
@@ScannerDanner glad to hear that btw..idk if Yu remember me comment on a different video about the car not starting when hot....I believe it was the ect sensor....also it turned off on my client and found out the pump wasn't even strapped in on the holder and connected to hose
@@ScannerDanner well definitely direction..months later...I should have checked the pump first.......u had asked me what was the milliamp doing on the O2 sensor and it fluctuated from .2 to .9 .......yes u did help a lot!!.. definitely different than 2 years ago ...thank Yu!
As to the fluctuations in gauge not matching the scan data: the needle on gauge may not be able to keep up with the frequency increase in the electrical fluctuations on the scan tool.
I think this is my 3rd play through this video. I appreciate what you do! I was wondering more about how the pcm determines what fuel rail pressure it needs. My 2.0 eb is idling at 260 frp and i see the car in this video is in the 700's. I think that points to my lean code and failing cat. However ive been missing it because the desired pressure is also right at 260ish so the ecu is happy. Im planning to test the low side pressure very soon.
@@ScannerDanner the car is running at over +30% fuel correction. Weve checked for air leaks until we died. Even a ford dealer found no air leaks. So if the system is correcting with that much added fuel, there MUST be extra air for it, UNLESS there is just not enough fuel available. The pcm is opening the injectors as far as possible just to get enough fuel to idle near stoich. Above idle, my fuel rail pressure spikes fast and the trims begin to drop, at wot im near 0 ltft. So it would seem i have low frp but only at idle. Ive replaced/swapped every sensor including the injectors.
I Seen Your Preview On Facebook My First Thought Was I Have Seen This Problem Before, That Must Be A Ford Lol I Wanted To Comment And Ask But Figured I Would Wait On The Video.Really Awesome!!!!
This was exactly as you thought? Cool, I've since heard this is pretty common! What are your thoughts on the drastic fuel psi changes during snap throttle testing after the fix. I'm calling it normal on this system but I could be wrong. Thanks!
@@ScannerDanner First Time I Ever Came Across This, Probably 2 Years Ago I Diagnosed The Problem As A Low Side Pressure Sensor Failure….I Was Correct But After Replacement I Seen Numbers On Scan Data That Didn’t Match The Actual Reading, The Car Ran Great But The Numbers Through Me Off,Long Story Short I Actually Ended Up Convincing Myself That There Must Be An Issue With The High Pressure Pump. After Replacing The Pump For No Reason Other Then What I New At The Time,The Fuel PSI Numbers We’re Exactly As They Where After Sensor Replacement.Nothing Wrong With The Pump I’m Calling It Normal As Well, I Have Had Other Ford GDI Engines Same Fluctuation And No Problems At All.
@SMAutoRepairLLC to be clear, you changed the high psi pump for those low psi fluctuations I'm mentioning? I wasn't talking about the skewed sensor issue if that's what you were thinking. Thanks!
@@ScannerDanner That’s My Fault Sir, I Did Believe That Is What You We’re Referring To My Apologies. The Low Pressure Reading Fluctuations By What I’ve Seen Seem to Be Completely Normal. I Appreciate You Taking The Time Out Of Your Evening To Reach Out Really Awesome!!!!
Had a 2015 equinox give me trouble with desired high pressure and actual pressure on the high side. It’d randomly go to 0 psi desired and the pressure Would stay at 650ish psi and it’d buck and go into reduced power. Called a bad pcm but didn’t fix it. I was like why would it want 0 psi on the high side. Didn’t fix it ended up being a high pressure pump. Didn’t leak down key on engine off. Low side pressure desired and actual matched.
The reason why your pressure readings readings are different on mechanical gauge than scanner is because the fuel rail pressure sensor measures pressure difference using intake vacuum, where your mechanical gauge compares the difference with atmospheric pressure
Paul, bear with me here as I'm pretty new to the scope scene. But the other day I connected both lead of my scope to the coil windings from a relay (resister removed), held it on the fuel pressure sensor and I could easily see the PWM signal on the fuel pressure sensor on a 2013 Kia Optima. I don't have a COP paddle ignition pick up, but I would assume that would be the nicer tool to use. If you get a second give it a try and maybe you could have used that to see if the PCM was sending the correct signal. Idk just a thought.
That is a very interesting point if the electronic gauge is an absolute case and it's going to be 15 psi higher because the atmospheric pressure I wonder if that's what the computers actually reading very interesting point Love video
Another great informative diag and fix! I was wondering if you could pull the Low side fuel pressure sensor down to ground on the signal wire with a test light and then observe duty cycle % and actual pressure? Or even the body resistance with your fingers on the signal wire?
You could definitely alter the signal voltage and watch the PCM reaction. But once I unplugged it and saw the PCM provide a much higher psi, I was no longer concerned with that if that makes sense.
you not did give the flux. every one got it. it was in air this fall .over one month ago .i have seen that dif reading on ford with gauge many year ago and check on ford web and seen that note of dif pressure .great video tks
Great video. I have been following your channel for many years. I learnt a lot. what is the purpose of heating the sensor? As I understand, Heating will rise up the pressure, we should see voltage going up.
Is it possible that the reason why the more fluctuations you see on the gauge the less there is on the PID, is because as the fluctuations climb, the less time the sensor has to measure and it kind of averages out on the screen, thus showing less swing?
scanner frame rate could definitely be a factor, its just opposite of what you'd think. A smoother actual measurement, shouldn't result in more fluctuations on scan data
I also have a vehicle in at work that just took a quick diagnostic on where the high pressure fuel side goes from 48 to 3 bar and the engine dies, but only on hot engine. Havent got time to check up on it anymore since our shop is always overbooked..... (shitty management😅) so no time for lengthy diag. But the scan data looks very simmilar otherwise and i said it looks like the low pressure side fuel pump might be bad but haven't called anything yet since i only had 30 minutes on it including testdrive to get it dying but now i have an idea what to look for firstly 👍 Great timing as it been sitting a while and customer wants his car back days ago...
So happy to tell you AND the customer the car is fixed now 😁 Tha part was "only" 170 usd so just the time of diagnosing more was weighted to just change it and see since parameters were very similar to yours and the low pressure never changed a single digit. So changed it and the pressure showed now went to be dynamically changing, also opener the old one and the electronics where filled with fuel. Now it is all good. Before it was 5 minute drive before it started dying, i drove 20 minutes today and it idles nice without stalling now. Volvo/Ford dealer told they only sold 2 sensors since 2018 so it was guaranteed i was ordering wrong part, jokes on them since it fixed it 😂
A question about it. What happens with the SFT and LFT in that situation? Low pressure implies less fuel and lean condition? Would the ECM try to correct it increasing SFT? Thank you for this gems Mr.Danner.
Neat to see some GDI troubleshooting. In order to get better put a fuel pressor sensor with a pico on your sinuses and report your findings. LOL Just kidding. I'm sick a bit too. This was a really good video, I don't have a lot of testing knowledge on GSI systems. I hope everybody's better soon.
Scanner Danner what's up my brother Paul hey I need a link to buy your book. the one from class you know how long ago that was, is out dated now. need to stay up to date, and by the way can you recommend a good garage where I can take one of my vehicles so a professional can check it out???
Maybe the reason the gauge steadied when rpm increased is, even though the scan tool amplitude varied more, the frequency also increased on the scan tool. The physical gauge probably doesn't keep up.
@@ScannerDanner frame rate the same but the time between peaks for instance are closer together when reving (fluctuations so fast the physical gauge just reads steady.) Just a thought.
I had a recent issue when testing fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge, I was getting 40psi when it should be 60psi could not confirm the fault so I applied 20psi to the gauge from a hand pump the needle on the gauge didn't even move!!!, way out of calibration.
I have a 14 Fusion now with similar complaint, but has a code for FPCM. Dealer replaced FDCM but codes comes back. Have yet to replicate the customer issue and all live data seems good, unlike your video. I worry my checks at the FPCM will be "good" unless I can catch it when the problem is happening
I'm glad for your chanel, ive been learning a lot with you. Actually the psi lower than 85 is interesting since the low sensor now works within specs.What could be the psi not reaching 85 as the sensor has been replaced?
I have a 2014 ford fusion 2.0l turbo. I was wondering what the desired fuel rail pressure at idle? Mine is running 259 psi I’m assuming it is low. The low pressure pump is at 55 psi on a gage. By the way awesome video.
You should have that data parameter on your scan tool. If you can read rail psi, the desired should be there too and we'll as the high psi pump solenoid duty cycle. I do not know what the desired is, sorry
Thanks for the response. I tried my scanner is a BlueDriver. It just reads the high side and doesn’t give me desired. Bummer. Have a great day and thanks again.
Could it be the gauge is smoothing out at higher rpm’s due to that long line on the gauge. As the pressure pulses increase in frequency the compliance of that long hose smooths out the variation. The sensor doesn’t have this problem.
Thats crazy youd think that ford would just make an update to the FPS but i guess since COVID thats not really possible im still have problems getting parts, oh and im in tx and me, my wife, and all my kids have the same cough/ fever think its just going around hope yall feel better god bless
How did you overlay your scantool screen on top of video playing in the background? You could make a video going over all your editing tricks-- that would be super interesting; even if it's only a 10min video.
This is my son Caleb who does all of this fancy stuff. There was probably 20 hrs of edits on this one. But I tell him this same thing all the time. He needs to start doing short how to clips of the stuff he does. Thank you!
Our 2014 Focus Titanium just started acting up and has 226,000 miles. I have a cheap code reader that shows low fuel pressure. The FRP goes to 0 and runs very rough after driving 4 or 5 miles. FRP sensor and FP sensor replaced. No change. In tank fuel pump replaced and HPFP replaced, as well as the fuel pump driver module, with no change. The HPFP has a foam insulation cover on it and I am curious about how warm the HPFP should be? It gets pretty hot to touch. Is this normal? I'm asking because nobody around here seems to be able to help.
I think the first thing I would do is to confirm that the low pressure side of the system is being maintained at the proper pressure. You'll need to adapt a pressure gauge on the low side of the system somewhere.
@ScannerDanner Thank you for answering. I haven't put a physical gauge on it, but my friend has a Snapon scanner, and it's reading a constant 85psi on the low side. The in tank pump is new. I removed the FRP and turn the ignition on, and it shoots a stream of fuel out of the fitting. The fuel filter is in the tank fuel pump. No in line filter.
@ScannerDanner I'm sorry to bother you again. The FRP and desired FRP are within a few psi from cold start to 194 ect. As soon as it reaches 194 ect the FRP and desired FRP goes haywire. Desired FRP will drop to 53.6 and rebound to 288 and everywhere in between. The FRP will drop to 0 and climb to 400 or more and drop to 0. After it starts running bad , I unplugged the FP sensor with no change so I plugged it back in. Unplugged the FRP sensor, and it won't run, so I plugged it back in. When I unplugged the HPFP it runs better. No sputtering or rough running. Plug it back in and the rough running and sputtering returns. I think I found something but I don't know what or where to go from here. New in tank fuel pump, HPFP, FRP and FP sensors, FRP pigtail, and fuel pump driver module. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
These engines can very easily lose a head gasket when the low pressure sensor fails. They lean out. Soon after the block cracks at the top between the edge of the cylinder and the cooling groove.
use a heat gun with steel flex tubing(exhaust) to heat the sensor or steam, if you have a steam carpet or engine cleaner with small handheld wand. I'll state the obvious, don't burn yourself doing so that way and do not use open flame or spark producing things to heat fuel system parts(like the fan in heat gun!) keep everything a distance away just in case(lol) some people need this warning I guess.
My alternator on my 2001 Firebird won't charge at idle speed, but raise it a couple hundred rpm and it starts charging. I checked the exciter wire going to the alternator and it shows it has 9 volts unplugged, with the key on. Should I be checking this plugged in? Or does this indicate a bad ground in the computer? Not sure if you're familiar with this system or not. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
@nateb.1568 okay, this is a simple system where the ECM turns the alternator "on" with that small gauge wire. It should be near 12v from memory and should be tested plugged in. You can actually take a test light to battery positive and touch on that alternator terminal and make the alternator start charging
@@ScannerDanner Thanks! I wasn't sure if it would be 5 volts since it was a signal coming from the computer. If 12V is the case, I have a voltage drop somewhere. I can see that it had been spliced into already so I should start checking there to see what voltage I get before the splice.
Paul, i have an intermittent po325 on a 2011 kia soul. Ill pay you to troubleshoot, and ill even buy you lunch if i can be there while you troubleshoot.
That DTC sets when the ECU does not detect a signal from the knock sensor. There are only a few reasons why that would happen, which would most likely be: 1. Failed Knock Sensor 2. Open connection between the sensor and ECU 3. Failed ECU Just unplug the sensor and connect a test light to B+. Touch your light to the plug gently. If it lights up, replace the knock sensor. If it doesn't light, or you've replaced the sensor and the problem persists, reply back to this comment and I'll try to help you troubleshoot further. Edit: If you're replacing the sensor make sure you use a Hyundai/KIA part. Don't use aftermarket sensors unless you absolutely have to.
Man, that's like 3 strikes in one sentence 😉 1.Someone from TH-cam (they generally have had their hands in there, which always makes things more complicated) 2. Intermittent issues are the worst! 3. Someone who wants to watch 😊 Thanks for your confidence in me though
@@ScannerDanner N-Acetyl Cysteine, an OTC supplement. Good for liver cleansing, and kidneys, possibly good for lungs. Emergency Rooms will give NAC to detoxify the liver in cases of Acetaminophen overdose, for example.
One of the best automotive channels on TH-cam! As a new shop owner, I will be requesting that any employees I have, to buy your book and subscription to your channel or I will buy it for them. The knowledge you provide us with in just one video is priceless! Hope you get to feeling better Paul and the rest of your family.
Thank you so much! We have been setting other shop owners up for their technicians. Contact me at support@scannerdanner.com if you have any questions.
I gotta get through my long ass factory training before my shop will buy it for me I guess I see the point from their perspective but a lot of it is nonsense if you don’t know the difference between a screwdriver and ratchet you probably shouldn’t be working on someone else’s vehicle
@johnasosajr have them contact me (shop manager or owner) and lets get you set up with SD Premium. It's only $132 for the year! You can't take a single 4 hour class for that much in the aftermarket and you'll have access to over 400 hours of material.
www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Hope to see you there soon!
@@JaySosaNY Have your shop check if they can write the books and the courses off the taxes as an expense.
As a DIYer since mid 70s book is worth every penny. have one for 2yrs now.
I guess sensor is showing absolute pressure that is why it is 1 atm (15 psi) higher than mechanical gauge (external gauge unplugged will show 0 psi and electronic will show atmosperic pressure). Thanks for the good work Paul! Love your videos
oooo, didn't think of that. that is it right there! gotta be, good job.
My thoughts exactly.
Hmmm. So in other words, pressure sensors whose values agree with that on the gauge read gauge pressure while those which read about 15PSI higher are outputting absolute pressure.
Thanks!
need to see that reading in denver to prove your theory........road trip!!!!! lol
Fallen for something like this on LPG system when tank was empty but level sensor was fixed full. Fuel psi was 15 as it was electronically ready atmosphere.
Maybe the reason the pressure pid shows higher than what is on your gauge because the type of pressure sensor that is being used. If it is an absolute pressure sensor, the PCM is going to see gauge pressure + atmospheric pressure.
Great catch. That make a lot of sense. You could prove it by disabling the fuel system and have no pressure in the system, and then see what the scan data shows. I would expect 14.7psi or so.
Thank you Danners. Your approximate 15 psi difference between the fuel pressure gauge reading and scan data reading is the scan data is absolute pressure. To prove that you can pull fuel pump fuse or relay, while engine is running until it stalls. Your fuel supply pressure live data will read approximately 15 psiA, while your pressure gauge would read 0 psiG.
🤦🏻♂️ Now that you mentioned it, it is so obvious, I almost ashamed not to have figured it out haha
You could use a potentiometer like a TPS to simulate the fuel pressure signal to test the rest of the system.
i was thinking that too
Same here, I was screaming as I watched... "Throw a decade box on it. "
The sensor looks like it may be an absolute pressure where as the gauge is "gauge pressure". The absolute pressure sensor would show around 14.5 psi as its atmospheric "ZERO" and 0psi would be a perfect Vacuum.
You guys are the best. If I had the $ I’d relocate you to my state. With a huge contract and state of the art diagnostic/repair shop. Too bad I’m not a millionaire. I wish mechanics around the world had your knowledge and care for the customer. You guys are very trustworthy. I’ve never met a shop like this near me. They’re always trying to just take your money. God forbid if you’re woman or elderly. This is not all repair shops there are some that care. But not enough. For guys like me who can take apart engines and repair but have trouble with diagnostics, this channel is the ultimate.
I'm glad you found me! Thank you so much for your kind words. Looking forward to hearing from you more along the way
I thank God for you Danner plus all your team because your really a blessing to us young tech
Your really a Genius and thanks for your shared knowledge Sir!
Wish you quick recovery
This is BULASIO from Uganda
Thank you!
Very cool video. So hard to explain this stuff to a customer. Being at a trusted private shop now for me its much easier to deal with these issues. But the conversation of it needs "this" sensor but may need further repairs is always painful. I try to remember we're all in this together, talking down about other shops just confirms even further the cust perception that "I'm getting ripped off". The few poison the well for the many, and I think most techs have good intentions but just don't have the training to correctly diag systems.
I watch several auto repair channels and there is not too much on GDI systems out there yet. Thank you so much for posting this and the info from Brian was gold. All of you please get well soon. My wife did the same thing to me. She was coughing and telling me don't worry, it's only sinus stuff. You won't catch anything. In about 3 days I felt like I had the plague for the next 3 weeks. 🤒😵🤧
Funny I ran across this video after searching Phoenix Plus scanners. I have the same car doing the same thing and it acted like a fuel pressure issue or restriction- meaning it ran better as I lifted off the pedal in test drive. But I couldn’t verify because I didn’t have test port adapter for low side. I ordered that and then my Autel broke before I could get back to it. I ordered a Phoenix Plus and this video was suggested under your review. Wish I’d found it the first time I tangled with that car but now I’m excited to get back.
Hi Paul, if you go to pinpoint test in alldata or Mitchell , go to pinpoint test HP and at HP3 it will say to compare FLP pid to the mechanical gauge, and it says if it is within 22 psi then its ok. If not replace the FLP sensor. I hope that helps. Thanks Paul, great video.
You can use sensor simulator to change the low pressure sensor voltage reading to see what happens to pressure gauge reading.
Oh great video as usual you make the thought process look easy , most of us suck at direction at the start of a diag job,
Great video again, finally catching up with you guys after almost finishing an eight month home renovation. Nice catch on this one, nice assist by your brother and in the net by Paul!
Great content as always. Easy and not complicated but it's all about following everything we've learned up to this point and putting to use. Another great example of pressure sensors! Commend you for putting out content even under the weather.
Thank you my friend
Hope you and the family get better soon buddy. I have been fighting off the same thing for the last week and a half lol. Great video Paul 😁
Good job sir.
Hope you feel better! I had some cough like you. I drank lots of habiscus hot tea that helped me a lot!
I think a test drive before working on a vehicle is very important. Paying close attention to what the vehicle is doing right or wrong. Not to beat a dead horse but I know you and you brother have complete confidence in each other. I was thinking of a new tech working on a vehicle with only the information from the customer or the shop Forman. A test drive before and after the repairs is so important. We have all test drove a vehicle after repairs and on that test drive the vehicle does something that seems wrong. In your mind you might be thinking I wonder if it did that before I worked on it. That's what I was trying to put out there. I have been working on vehicles and equipment for 40 years and I feel I still don't know enough but thanks to you I know a lot more.
Of course, but I knew I could get it to act up with it just idling and my bro already drove it 😉
Absolute and gauge pressure will be 15-20 PSI difference. I learned about this on a Volvo with a DC (Duty Cycle) NON GDI fuel pump system and did a scan tool pressure test. Service info and scan tool test told me about it and researched told me also. Funny thing it kept throwing fuel pressure sensor codes. Cause the pump was worn so DC was at like 50%, to maintain desired PSI. With a new pump DC came down to 20-30%(Been 5 years so don't remember exact # now). Vehicle was at 2 shops and the dealer before it came to me. All replaced the sensor and filter. Dealer wanted to put a computer in it.
I felt those coughs. Hope you and the man behind the camera (Caleb) get well quickly. Great video too.
Even when you're not sick, you guys are all fully sick, but in a good way🤣 Thanks Paul, Caleb and Jim for all you do for us out here in TH-cam land and SDP land. Hope you're all feeling better soon👍🇦🇺
That is an awesome fuel pressure tester kit.
Low pressure fuel pressure sensor (LPFS) is not likely an absolute press-sensor, there is no need for that value.
What most people did not realize is that, any added hose length, Tee fittings and orifice produces HEAD or restriction to flow and will create a lower reading on the mechanical-capillary gauge we use to troubleshoot, even assuming that the capillary gauge is as "accurate" as the all electric LPFS.
Position of the LPFS also matters. Some cars has its LPFS sensor at the fuel filter output at the fuel tank and we read our pressure at close to the input of the HP fuel pump at the engine . This extra distance of approx 4 meters and elevation of approx 50cm LPFS is reading adds to HEAD and read as higher pressure. And then we add skinny hoses and Tee fittings to our mechanical capillary gauge with extra 50cm length, hence our mechanical-capillary gauge will read even lower pressure.
If one wants to read pressure equally as possible on all instruments/sensors which are not taken from the same port, it has to be static reading with pressure raised slowly and not while engine is running, assuming there is no check-valve involved.
Often electronic LPFS is temperature compensated while our mechanical-capillary gauge is not, there goes some more deviation. Mechanical-capillary gauge by design is most accurate at the middle sweep range, that is given.
So a 145pis gauge is most accurate at its 70-80 psi range.
On my Mercedes W212 M276 3.0TT engine, its LPFS is at the fuel tank at the filter body, reading filtered output.
The sensing/reading port for mechanical-capillary gauge is at engine Bank 2, so 0.8 to 0.9 BAR lower pressure I am reading compared to Xentry scanner LPFS value is acceptable. I use 50cm hose for the mechanical-capillary gauge and able to place it near engine fan shroud, so that it is safer if any leak occurs because turbocharger is close by if leak occurs at gauge, while gauge is on the engine Vee.
If anyone has a swimming pool with decent good twin filter system of sand filter + cartridge filter and pressure gauges at the pump output, one can see various pressure differences when system is running, all produced by resistance or HEAD from either filter media clean/dirty, pipe length, elbow, valves, check vales and all other related HEAD or resistance a fluid delivery system will encounter.
Agree with your first statement. What would be the need for an absolute psi sensor here. This low side pressure is clearly not critical that it needs to be an exact amount as we are not supplying rail psi with it like on a port injection system.
And location of the psi sensor is certainly a factor, especially on this set up!
I would argue that my gauge is not a big factor here as I've used this same set up a thousand times on port injection systems and have exact psi specs with it. Thanks for the comments and info!
@@ScannerDanner I do not know what is the minimum input pressure for this Ford's HP fuel pump requires, but on my M276.820 its a Bosch 200 BAR (3,000psi) unit which expects 4 BAR ( 60psi) minimum at its input at maximum fuel burn. However, my LP fuel pump is 3 phase variable speed, so testing LP fuel pressure need me to do WOT at 1st and 2nd gear to see real performance of the LP fuel pump as the fuel flow mapping won't be all out during stationary revving.
Same design to the Ford HP pump for its Normally Open fuel quantity control valve though.
However, I like seeing most american cars are generous for their data perimeter.
For reason unknown Mercedes for M276.820 engine ( Bosch ECM MED17.7 ) is stingy for a few important perimeters. There is no desired LP fuel pressure and HP fuel pressure information, DUGGHH !!!
I knew about the 4 BAR minimum pressure from Bosch datasheet of the HP pump family used on my engine, which is the HDP5 family. Single piston type.
I am hoping someday you will scope the HP fuel pump fuel quantity valve and break down its data value vs actual mechanical action which is quite complex and you are very good with explanation of such system and knowing your mind-set : forever wanting to learn more, it will be awesome this information coming from you.
Some OE like Mercedes call it actuation angle while Ford call it by % of actuation.
The complex part is the real actuation timing of the single piston fuel quantity valve of the HP pump vs the camshaft's lobe for the HP fuel pump pumping. In a 3 fuel lobes camshaft scenario there will be 120 degrees of camshaft revolution per lobe BDC>>TDC>>BDC, but only 60 degrees is able to pressurize the fuel, the upward stroke of the lobe BDC to TDC. The other 60 degrees TDC to BDC is for "suction".
VVT system added complexity when measuring these as camshaft angle keeps changing in respect to crankshaft angle. Hence it takes an excellent teacher like yourself to dig in deeper into this GDI 101.
A delay in the activation of the electromagnetic coil of the HP pump fuel quantity valve from degreading coil insulation or whatnot, but seemingly % is achieved* ( *but at wrong camshaft lobe position ) say in a Ford GDI, can really ruin a troubleshooting day. If total dead fuel quantity valve is easy to troubleshoot.
Okey dokey, thanks Paul for the excellent video , as always.
Some great info in there 👍. That fuel pressure adapter kits looks pretty useful.
You and your brother and Caleb were great together
Don't just forget about the grill shutter.
Ive had one where i was chasing engine faults that didn't make sense.
Engine dying while idle, not starting, not charging, charging too much, instrument cluster going crazy.
It was hard to drive it in to the workshop and the exterior lights also blinked on and off.
The grill shutter was full of water and was directly on the lin bus line and messing everything up.
Every problem went away pulling and drying the plug since it was dripping wet, and with a new shutter every code went away and i only got code for it once, it never reappeared after deleting codes the first time but luckily i had printed out all the first codes and checked it not too long after in the diagnostic and had 1 more car with just charging fault even tho it was charging, same part changed fixed it
ah great tip! Did not consider water pulling the network down! Thanks!
Thank you for the video Scanner Danners, and take care of yourself 🙏hope you get well soon .
Thanks for sharing Paul. Don’t know if you follow Sean toppling podcast but he had a good fuel pressure problem on a 3.5 Honda engine which turned out to be skipped tooth on the Cam which drives the pump. It as a good one. All of you get well soon Artie 🇺🇸😊
Great Diag. video Paul as always and GREAT Intro. by your brother.Hope Ya''ll get better soon stay safe.Be Praying for Ya''ll GOD BLESS.
Thank you!
@@ScannerDanner Anytime Paul.
The 15PSI difference is normal, Ford and volvo (from my knowledge) use absolute pressure sensors for low side fuel. Usually it is written in the fuel pressure sensor info. Almost got my butt kicked from that once hahaha the TSB is most probably because too many techs thought the sensor was faulty when it wasnt.
You are correct absolute and gauge pressure is 15-20 PSI difference. I already commented on this video, but I learned this on valvo service info when doing scan tool pressure test.
I also suspect some sort of attenuating or amplifying harmonic between the electrical signals and the mechanical action of the gauge( think of the Tacoma Bridge). Anyway, it just doesn't matter but thanks for the reply.
Great diagnosis
I hope u get well soon 🔜... again.. another great video u have no idea how helpful you are and all of your knowledge...great tip from Brian at the end!
All better now my friend. Thank you!
@@ScannerDanner glad to hear that btw..idk if Yu remember me comment on a different video about the car not starting when hot....I believe it was the ect sensor....also it turned off on my client and found out the pump wasn't even strapped in on the holder and connected to hose
@@nutsandbolts7407 I'm not sure without the context of the discussion. I'm sorry 😞
But it sounds like I was able to help you? Either way, nice find!!
@@ScannerDanner well definitely direction..months later...I should have checked the pump first.......u had asked me what was the milliamp doing on the O2 sensor and it fluctuated from .2 to .9 .......yes u did help a lot!!.. definitely different than 2 years ago ...thank Yu!
Awesome video Paul. Thank you and feel better soon.
As to the fluctuations in gauge not matching the scan data: the needle on gauge may not be able to keep up with the frequency increase in the electrical fluctuations on the scan tool.
More like the data is not keeping up with actual. It never does and is always delayed. But this was more than that.
Good job, you beat me to it. It’s reading absolute pressure
Famous last words. I’m not contagious. 😂😂
Hope you get feeling better soon.
Great job Paul. very informative. i hope you feel better soon.
So that's how it is👍
Thanks ScannerDanner☺️
More power to you
You got rock star status now man!!
Great video and excellent data capture.
I think this is my 3rd play through this video. I appreciate what you do! I was wondering more about how the pcm determines what fuel rail pressure it needs. My 2.0 eb is idling at 260 frp and i see the car in this video is in the 700's. I think that points to my lean code and failing cat. However ive been missing it because the desired pressure is also right at 260ish so the ecu is happy. Im planning to test the low side pressure very soon.
If your desired matches the actual, then your pump is not the issue. What are you chasing?
@@ScannerDanner the car is running at over +30% fuel correction. Weve checked for air leaks until we died. Even a ford dealer found no air leaks. So if the system is correcting with that much added fuel, there MUST be extra air for it, UNLESS there is just not enough fuel available. The pcm is opening the injectors as far as possible just to get enough fuel to idle near stoich. Above idle, my fuel rail pressure spikes fast and the trims begin to drop, at wot im near 0 ltft. So it would seem i have low frp but only at idle. Ive replaced/swapped every sensor including the injectors.
get well soon mate
I Seen Your Preview On Facebook My First Thought Was I Have Seen This Problem Before, That Must Be A Ford Lol I Wanted To Comment And Ask But Figured I Would Wait On The Video.Really Awesome!!!!
This was exactly as you thought? Cool, I've since heard this is pretty common! What are your thoughts on the drastic fuel psi changes during snap throttle testing after the fix. I'm calling it normal on this system but I could be wrong. Thanks!
@@ScannerDanner First Time I Ever Came Across This, Probably 2 Years Ago I Diagnosed The Problem As A Low Side Pressure Sensor Failure….I Was Correct But After Replacement I Seen Numbers On Scan Data That Didn’t Match The Actual Reading, The Car Ran Great But The Numbers Through Me Off,Long Story Short I Actually Ended Up Convincing Myself That There Must Be An Issue With The High Pressure Pump. After Replacing The Pump For No Reason Other Then What I New At The Time,The Fuel PSI Numbers We’re Exactly As They Where After Sensor Replacement.Nothing Wrong With The Pump I’m Calling It Normal As Well, I Have Had Other Ford GDI Engines Same Fluctuation And No Problems At All.
@SMAutoRepairLLC to be clear, you changed the high psi pump for those low psi fluctuations I'm mentioning? I wasn't talking about the skewed sensor issue if that's what you were thinking. Thanks!
@@ScannerDanner That’s My Fault Sir, I Did Believe That Is What You We’re Referring To My Apologies. The Low Pressure Reading Fluctuations By What I’ve Seen Seem to Be Completely Normal. I Appreciate You Taking The Time Out Of Your Evening To Reach Out Really Awesome!!!!
Had a 2015 equinox give me trouble with desired high pressure and actual pressure on the high side. It’d randomly go to 0 psi desired and the pressure Would stay at 650ish psi and it’d buck and go into reduced power. Called a bad pcm but didn’t fix it. I was like why would it want 0 psi on the high side. Didn’t fix it ended up being a high pressure pump. Didn’t leak down key on engine off. Low side pressure desired and actual matched.
The reason why your pressure readings readings are different on mechanical gauge than scanner is because the fuel rail pressure sensor measures pressure difference using intake vacuum, where your mechanical gauge compares the difference with atmospheric pressure
Is off by more than 15 psi wasn't it?
Paul, bear with me here as I'm pretty new to the scope scene. But the other day I connected both lead of my scope to the coil windings from a relay (resister removed), held it on the fuel pressure sensor and I could easily see the PWM signal on the fuel pressure sensor on a 2013 Kia Optima. I don't have a COP paddle ignition pick up, but I would assume that would be the nicer tool to use. If you get a second give it a try and maybe you could have used that to see if the PCM was sending the correct signal. Idk just a thought.
That is a very interesting point if the electronic gauge is an absolute case and it's going to be 15 psi higher because the atmospheric pressure I wonder if that's what the computers actually reading very interesting point Love video
Another great informative diag and fix! I was wondering if you could pull the Low side fuel pressure sensor down to ground on the signal wire with a test light and then observe duty cycle % and actual pressure? Or even the body resistance with your fingers on the signal wire?
You could definitely alter the signal voltage and watch the PCM reaction. But once I unplugged it and saw the PCM provide a much higher psi, I was no longer concerned with that if that makes sense.
@@ScannerDanner It sure does and thanks for the response! I appreciate the knowledge gained!
you not did give the flux. every one got it. it was in air this fall .over one month ago .i have seen that dif reading on ford with gauge many year ago and check on ford web and seen that note of dif pressure .great video tks
Great video. I have been following your channel for many years. I learnt a lot. what is the purpose of heating the sensor? As I understand, Heating will rise up the pressure, we should see voltage going up.
Heat and vibration are the keys in recreating intermittent faults. Also rapid cooling of a sensor or component can help too. Thanks!
Paul, Duane in the Philippines here, where is Danner's shop Rheostat so you can force/inject sensor voltages? Another great Case Study.
Is it possible that the reason why the more fluctuations you see on the gauge the less there is on the PID, is because as the fluctuations climb, the less time the sensor has to measure and it kind of averages out on the screen, thus showing less swing?
scanner frame rate could definitely be a factor, its just opposite of what you'd think. A smoother actual measurement, shouldn't result in more fluctuations on scan data
Appreciate you Dannet
I also have a vehicle in at work that just took a quick diagnostic on where the high pressure fuel side goes from 48 to 3 bar and the engine dies, but only on hot engine.
Havent got time to check up on it anymore since our shop is always overbooked..... (shitty management😅) so no time for lengthy diag. But the scan data looks very simmilar otherwise and i said it looks like the low pressure side fuel pump might be bad but haven't called anything yet since i only had 30 minutes on it including testdrive to get it dying but now i have an idea what to look for firstly 👍
Great timing as it been sitting a while and customer wants his car back days ago...
awesome! Looking forward to an update on what you find. Is it a Ford?
Actually an Volvo but they are all Ford parts and engines now 😂 think it is the exact same engine as this one
So happy to tell you AND the customer the car is fixed now 😁
Tha part was "only" 170 usd so just the time of diagnosing more was weighted to just change it and see since parameters were very similar to yours and the low pressure never changed a single digit.
So changed it and the pressure showed now went to be dynamically changing, also opener the old one and the electronics where filled with fuel.
Now it is all good.
Before it was 5 minute drive before it started dying, i drove 20 minutes today and it idles nice without stalling now.
Volvo/Ford dealer told they only sold 2 sensors since 2018 so it was guaranteed i was ordering wrong part, jokes on them since it fixed it 😂
@@tullgutten awesome, thanks for the update!
A question about it. What happens with the SFT and LFT in that situation? Low pressure implies less fuel and lean condition? Would the ECM try to correct it increasing SFT? Thank you for this gems Mr.Danner.
Yes sir! Fuel trims would go very positive at times
Great and interesting stuff thank you guys. Get well.
Neat to see some GDI troubleshooting. In order to get better put a fuel pressor sensor with a pico on your sinuses and report your findings. LOL Just kidding. I'm sick a bit too. This was a really good video, I don't have a lot of testing knowledge on GSI systems. I hope everybody's better soon.
I'm glad you like it! Thank you
hen we see Fuel pressure fluctuates idle or a hight rpm at in a simple fuel system without a high pressure pump what could be your fault?
The signal appears to be aliased on the scan tool at the higher rpm due to a low refresh rate.
That wouldn't explain an actual smoother psi on the gauge cause the scan data PID to move more. I'd be the opposite if it wad a refresh issue.
Where can I find out more about why are manufacturers going to GDI?
Scanner Danner what's up my brother Paul hey I need a link to buy your book. the one from class you know how long ago that was, is out dated now. need to stay up to date, and by the way can you recommend a good garage where I can take one of my vehicles so a professional can check it out???
Maybe the reason the gauge steadied when rpm increased is, even though the scan tool amplitude varied more, the frequency also increased on the scan tool. The physical gauge probably doesn't keep up.
Scan data frame rate was the same if that's what your saying? Thanks
@@ScannerDanner frame rate the same but the time between peaks for instance are closer together when reving (fluctuations so fast the physical gauge just reads steady.) Just a thought.
Paul this is a great video yet customers say “just plug it in and it will tell you what’s wrong” haha if only
I had a recent issue when testing fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge, I was getting 40psi when it should be 60psi could not confirm the fault so I applied 20psi to the gauge from a hand pump the needle on the gauge didn't even move!!!, way out of calibration.
Blk seed oil, zink , magnesium Malnate, fortify your immune system Paul..
Thanks for share this kind of videos I love when the people use the critical thinking
Good to have a GDI class You can't find any good classes on it
The Scanner caughs and fixes it, cool 👍😊😁😎😁😊😎
Try the TOPDON Phoenix, scantool, L O L instead of that snapon Scanner Danner
I have the Phoenix 🤔
Not sure what your point is
I have a 14 Fusion now with similar complaint, but has a code for FPCM. Dealer replaced FDCM but codes comes back. Have yet to replicate the customer issue and all live data seems good, unlike your video. I worry my checks at the FPCM will be "good" unless I can catch it when the problem is happening
I'm glad for your chanel, ive been learning a lot with you. Actually the psi lower than 85 is interesting since the low sensor now works within specs.What could be the psi not reaching 85 as the sensor has been replaced?
Watch the last clip (before my cough sequence) for an answer to that
I have a 2014 ford fusion 2.0l turbo. I was wondering what the desired fuel rail pressure at idle? Mine is running 259 psi I’m assuming it is low. The low pressure pump is at 55 psi on a gage. By the way awesome video.
You should have that data parameter on your scan tool. If you can read rail psi, the desired should be there too and we'll as the high psi pump solenoid duty cycle.
I do not know what the desired is, sorry
Thanks for the response. I tried my scanner is a BlueDriver. It just reads the high side and doesn’t give me desired. Bummer. Have a great day and thanks again.
Hello Dan...I was wondering if you could help me concerning a lean condition on my 2005 accord 3.0 V6?
Could it be the gauge is smoothing out at higher rpm’s due to that long line on the gauge. As the pressure pulses increase in frequency the compliance of that long hose smooths out the variation. The sensor doesn’t have this problem.
I think the increase in frequency of the high psi pulses is why the psi gauge would smooth out.
Thats crazy youd think that ford would just make an update to the FPS but i guess since COVID thats not really possible im still have problems getting parts, oh and im in tx and me, my wife, and all my kids have the same cough/ fever think its just going around hope yall feel better god bless
Thank you!
How did you overlay your scantool screen on top of video playing in the background? You could make a video going over all your editing tricks-- that would be super interesting; even if it's only a 10min video.
This is my son Caleb who does all of this fancy stuff. There was probably 20 hrs of edits on this one. But I tell him this same thing all the time. He needs to start doing short how to clips of the stuff he does. Thank you!
Everytime I see a new scanner dancer video I immediately click on it 😂 love you videos Paul Keep it up
Yes, I suppose one could say that he does dance with the scanner 😂
I've been suffering from 2 colds in arow so far, cought and spluttering, its the time of the year even in England...
Hope you feel better now my friend
@@ScannerDanner Yes Paul thankyou
Awesome Outstanding job thanks
Our 2014 Focus Titanium just started acting up and has 226,000 miles. I have a cheap code reader that shows low fuel pressure. The FRP goes to 0 and runs very rough after driving 4 or 5 miles. FRP sensor and FP sensor replaced. No change. In tank fuel pump replaced and HPFP replaced, as well as the fuel pump driver module, with no change.
The HPFP has a foam insulation cover on it and I am curious about how warm the HPFP should be? It gets pretty hot to touch. Is this normal?
I'm asking because nobody around here seems to be able to help.
I think the first thing I would do is to confirm that the low pressure side of the system is being maintained at the proper pressure. You'll need to adapt a pressure gauge on the low side of the system somewhere.
@ScannerDanner Thank you for answering. I haven't put a physical gauge on it, but my friend has a Snapon scanner, and it's reading a constant 85psi on the low side. The in tank pump is new. I removed the FRP and turn the ignition on, and it shoots a stream of fuel out of the fitting. The fuel filter is in the tank fuel pump. No in line filter.
@ScannerDanner I'm sorry to bother you again. The FRP and desired FRP are within a few psi from cold start to 194 ect. As soon as it reaches 194 ect the FRP and desired FRP goes haywire. Desired FRP will drop to 53.6 and rebound to 288 and everywhere in between. The FRP will drop to 0 and climb to 400 or more and drop to 0.
After it starts running bad ,
I unplugged the FP sensor with no change so I plugged it back in. Unplugged the FRP sensor, and it won't run, so I plugged it back in. When I unplugged the HPFP it runs better. No sputtering or rough running. Plug it back in and the rough running and sputtering returns. I think I found something but I don't know what or where to go from here.
New in tank fuel pump, HPFP, FRP and FP sensors, FRP pigtail, and fuel pump driver module.
Your help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
FordTechMalulco also has boxer dogs :) 🐕🐾
Good old Paul, spreading the knowledge as well the viruses hahaha 😆🤣.
Take care brother God bless you, hope everyone is feeling better.
100% spred it everywhere
What type of Scanner are you using?
These engines can very easily lose a head gasket when the low pressure sensor fails. They lean out. Soon after the block cracks at the top between the edge of the cylinder and the cooling groove.
use a heat gun with steel flex tubing(exhaust) to heat the sensor or steam, if you have a steam carpet or engine cleaner with small handheld wand.
I'll state the obvious, don't burn yourself doing so that way and do not use open flame or spark producing things to heat fuel system parts(like the fan in heat gun!) keep everything a distance away just in case(lol) some people need this warning I guess.
Link to adapters please
www.scannerdanner.com/tools.html
One of my tools pages (Amazon and AESwave) has it listed
Thank you!
My alternator on my 2001 Firebird won't charge at idle speed, but raise it a couple hundred rpm and it starts charging. I checked the exciter wire going to the alternator and it shows it has 9 volts unplugged, with the key on. Should I be checking this plugged in? Or does this indicate a bad ground in the computer? Not sure if you're familiar with this system or not.
Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
Is this the one wire set up other than the heavy cable of course? I'd have to check a diagram
@@ScannerDanner yeah. It has the battery positive terminal on the back, and then a small Guage wire going to a plug on the top of the alternator.
@nateb.1568 okay, this is a simple system where the ECM turns the alternator "on" with that small gauge wire. It should be near 12v from memory and should be tested plugged in.
You can actually take a test light to battery positive and touch on that alternator terminal and make the alternator start charging
@@ScannerDanner Thanks! I wasn't sure if it would be 5 volts since it was a signal coming from the computer. If 12V is the case, I have a voltage drop somewhere. I can see that it had been spliced into already so I should start checking there to see what voltage I get before the splice.
@@nateb.1568 100% agree
A new case study 😁🎉
Paul, i have an intermittent po325 on a 2011 kia soul. Ill pay you to troubleshoot, and ill even buy you lunch if i can be there while you troubleshoot.
That DTC sets when the ECU does not detect a signal from the knock sensor. There are only a few reasons why that would happen, which would most likely be:
1. Failed Knock Sensor
2. Open connection between the sensor and ECU
3. Failed ECU
Just unplug the sensor and connect a test light to B+. Touch your light to the plug gently. If it lights up, replace the knock sensor. If it doesn't light, or you've replaced the sensor and the problem persists, reply back to this comment and I'll try to help you troubleshoot further.
Edit: If you're replacing the sensor make sure you use a Hyundai/KIA part. Don't use aftermarket sensors unless you absolutely have to.
Man, that's like 3 strikes in one sentence 😉
1.Someone from TH-cam (they generally have had their hands in there, which always makes things more complicated)
2. Intermittent issues are the worst!
3. Someone who wants to watch
😊
Thanks for your confidence in me though
Paul Danner - AKA Chuck Liddell
Paul has crap in his lungs while his brother is sucking on a cigar. Now that's funny. lol
Is it??
@@ScannerDanner Meant to be. Hope you're well by now!
Does cooling a sensor raise voltage?
Temperature shouldn't change a psi sensors signal. This just further revealed what we already knew, which was the psi sensor was messed up
Good to go
Is GDI Ford specific?
No GDI (gas direct injection)
But each system is different in particular with the low psi side of the system.
I'm no doctor....but some say NAC is good respiratory issues.
what is NAC?
@@ScannerDanner N-Acetyl Cysteine, an OTC supplement. Good for liver cleansing, and kidneys, possibly good for lungs. Emergency Rooms will give NAC to detoxify the liver in cases of Acetaminophen overdose, for example.
@@spinb never heard of it
I watched the last 10 minutes at 1.75 speed. The coughing compilation was even funnier that way.
Haha I'm sure! I always watch these types of videos, including my own when I review, in 1.5 times 🙂
High pressure fuel pump on fords,they leak fuel into the oil and drive the
Mixture mad just fix one last week ..
When it come to wiring and can net work I’m not so good 🥲