GOING REAL FAST WITH SIMPLE STUFF!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ส.ค. 2024
- I DETAILED WHAT WE DID WITH OUR FACTORY 5 ENGINES IN COMPETITION WHICH CALLS FOR STOCK ENGINES AND THAT IS WHAT I DID REMOVING SOME THINGS... LOL
THESE CAN BE DONE ON THE STREETS AND WILL GAIN YOU POWER FOR ALMOST ZERO DOLLARS. AFTER DOING THESE THINGS YOU CAN BOLT ON PORTED HEADS OR AFTERMARKET CYLINDER HEADS FOR ADDITIONAL POWER!
Obtw, I get numerous requests for technical advice and if interested, tex me @ 626 203 2712. Half hour to 1 hour+ rates are available. Most calls go over as posted and it is ok. US Pacific time zone.
The bloody knuckle it's called ( pay attention to the little numbers) the little numbers matter. This guy is spot on !
The very minor or small details that we pay attention to is what gives us the edge.
Lifetime of toil via utube- hope people appreciate this.
“How to cheat the street” lol, love it. Keep it coming Ben!
Thank you very much and appreciate your support all these years.
Ben
If you look closely at the pistons, rods, there is a lot of material in places that only contribute to weight, not strength, a little time with a grinder, Dremel, file, the weight overall can be fairly substantial, the extra material around the pin bores in the piston, some casting lines can be smoothed over, and rounded corners, on the skirt, same for the rods, smooth the beans, remove casting marks, eliminate stress riser's, casting or forging lines, and the balance pads can be basically removed, as long as you are balancing the rods as you go, being sure the pin ends are all the same weight, along with the journal ends, and overall weight equal, being Shure to remove the rod bolts to not leave stress riser's , make the rod smooth as glass, then resized after fitting ARP bolts,
Then the crank can be lighter, remove the weight from both sides of the counter balance requiring more mass to be removed to balance the crank, reducing rotating and reciprocating mass, if more rotating mass were to be required, then a heavier flywheel can be used, or a larger heavier damper but should be fine without any extra weight, the rods should handle anything the pistons can handle, and probably the crank, as long as the rpm is kept under the moon!!😆👍
Lots of trial and error and sometimes I have seen radical weight cutting of the counterweight required installing mallory and placing the weight back on to get the correct balance.
Great stuff Mr Alameda !!!
Great video Ben.
I like not spending money.
This is genius! Please adopt me! 😂
Thank you.
Really good Ben info Thanks for sharing
Another great video Ben, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!
Your a great teacher Ben, really enjoying your videos
Grate video Mr Alameda 👍🏻
Great tips Ben thank you for sharing them 👍
Thanks for supporting my channel!
Thank you Ben.
We are loving these videos.
WE all wanna go faster. Keep them coming.
Glad you like them! Keep in touch always and thanks for your support of this channel.
great tips, love all these ideas!
Glad you like them!
Super job Ben, thank you!
Thanks for supporting my channel!
Excellent info. Goes to show there's no substitute for experience!!! Knowledge is power. HORSE POWER!!!
Thanks Tank!
Good information!!!!
I love your videos !!!
I love this guy! This is something I could listen to all day every day.
KC, thanks for your support there bud!
@@benalamedaracing2765 No, thank you! I've only been watching for a week and already you have made me look at things different and I thought I was pretty sharp already. Because of you I checked the diameter of the head gaskets I'm running on the 12.85 to 1 compression SBF I built. 3.250 stroke 4.030 bore and sure enough the bores were 4.080 to 4.090. Never would have thought to check it until you said something. I'll be ordering custom gaskets when i put it back together. It's an "extreme" street car as you put it. 2900 lbs. I can't thank you enough and keep em coming.
Wish I had found your place a year ago, fun and great video, info. KEEP IT UP!
Thanks John!
Great review of what we did in the days of learning Ben in the 60-70’s me growing up with very little money I had to fine everything FREE I could!!!!
Thanks for the memories
Mike❤
Mike, it has been since day one running around and trying things out and finding out what works and does not! You seen and been there!
This is a factory class race car guy right here . Great information thank you
Thanks Ben and I learned class racing is one of the hardest with all the limitations and looking for an edge anywhere and everywhere!
I've begun watching every one of your videos as even some of the simplest often overlooked details are disassembled and discussed in detail always exposing the importance. I haven't seen anyone studying spark plugs like you expect for Ed Pink.
The details.....
Thanks Robert and thanks for your support!
Good Stuff . Thaks Ben . I wish I were in the Area ..
I could use more gearhead friends specially here in Vegas! Where do you live at the moment?
My 408 stroker only has 11.8 foot pounds of rotating drag using Mahle power pack pistons but of course they are not stock, I can't believe your giving away all my secretes to racing circle track with there strict rules. 🤪
Thank you Ben. Ive done some of those with success but wow i didnt think about the rings!!!
Thanks so much for sharing your incredible knowledge
Glad it was helpful!
Run across your TH-cams helping me out refreshing my memory on SBFs , I picked up a rebuilt 302/.030 over checking it out to find a 289 assembly w/ forged pistons 3/8 rod bolts I'm going to put a 302 crank in for 306 .some great information 👍👍
Added displacement does not hurt for sure!
Love these low buck tricks. I've known about some of these. Great stuff.
I just am building a 94 302. Too bad I didn't see this before I put it together, I would have been tempted to do these mods If it was a track only car.
May I suggest if you deleted the 2nd ring to run slightly heavier oil which I missed to mention on the video. There will be more coming soon!
THAT, was some really good information ben!!! And i realize that information did'nt come easy ben!!!! Or cheap as it takes along time and experiance to have that kind of knowlege!!! THANKYOU BEN FOR SHARING!!! 😁
Thanks for tuning in Carl!
Interesting stuff. Thanks for sharing. Now I have to measure the ring friction and check were i am.
You can use a fish scale and vary the amount you bend the ends! These technique does not work with oil rings with a wire funning around its middle circumference.
Great info, I just recently got into tuning my LS. Last time I worked with tuning it was making fuel metering rods out of brass rods from a hardware store, used to turn them with a drill against sandpaper for the correct profile. Anyway, using HP tuners I got my 2017 L96 Silverado 6.0 50 more ft/lbs just tuning, no other mods, factory leaves so much on the table!
Thanks for the info!
30 degree seat also advances the intake valve timing.
Because the valve lifts off the seat quicker.
Production of more low end torque:)
THIS, IS THE VIDIO INFORMATION, THAT GOT ME HOOKED BEN 😃 I V'E LIKED THEM ALL, BUT THIS, IS SOME VERY SLICK INFO, AND A BUNCH OF IT. THANKS FOR SHARRING BEN, SO. ILL.😊
Glad you enjoyed it!
Ill try applying this to small engine motorcycles! I've been applying your principles to my racebike. Wish me luck mang ben.
Thanks and please share to everyone there in PI!
Ben thank you so much for all these tips. Currently running a 302 stock bottom. With my importing cam 650 double pumper was Ash small shot of nitrous 125 shot. 93 F-150 I do have extra block. That I will definitely try piston rings oil rings. Reverse the Pistons water pump. I honestly believe. This is going to make another great block that I have in my arsenal. The engine that I recently built. Is awesome. I will definitely keep you posted thank you so much. For all of your knowledge tips
Yes keep me posted on your build!
So much good information. Thank you. I would love to hear about some 351w info if you car to provide.
I will indeed follow up with a 351W block mods.
Good stuff Ben.
Thanks!
I really love your content. I’m doing a AMC360 for a 77 hornet
Yes many of these tricks will apply to many engines.
Awesome content! Gives me some ideas !
Thanks Ray!
Very cool video!
Thanks for the visit
You’re a very smart man Ben. Some people are just gifted in terms of being mechanically inclined, you’re lucky to have found your calling.
I live in Vancouver Canada. I’ve been in the high-performance Fords since the late 1970s.
I currently own four-cylinder turbo Cosworth cars from the UK, specifically the escort Cosworth and the sapphire Cosworth cars. I would be great to see more budget build information and specifically how much horsepower you can get from stock blocks, heads, cranks etc as well as medium sized horsepower engines cost a little bit more money. Have a great new year.
Thank you sir for your kind comment.
thanks for video!
awesome stuff Ben, I flipped my pistons on my 86 when I refreshed the shortblock, I wish I had known about these other optimizations because I would have tried them! I really like the 289 rod tioa and milling off some of the Piston top! do you recall how much weight was taken off the pistons? that's got to help also! Reducing the crank and rod.joirnal size is an awesome tip too!
All I remembered was I had to re balance because the pistons was a lot lighter. The higher ring placement was worth all that work.
@@benalamedaracing2765 Thanks for sharing Ben! These tips are pure GOLD for the budget minded garage builders like myself!
Yes sir plan on getting that done on my 86 fox 5.0 before year end.
Fantastic and interesting!!!!!!!
Thank you sir for your support.
@@benalamedaracing2765 I didn't mention this earlier because it creates a sh#! storm. The reversing of the pistons in an appropriate application was mentioned by a TH-cam in Tennessee as a trick to create a snappier quicker revving engine. Two mega high dollar Magazine guys in California crucified said creator as being an outdated old hack. They even dynoed before and after swapped power output of a Mopar LA 318 and proclaimed victory when the power remained the same. Tennessee content creator never said the swap made more power. He said the engine revs quicker. California wine vineyard guys are real deuechbags.
@@TheOverisel thank you thank you for your insight sir! It does not gain power per se but the response changes and dyno's sometimes miss this very thing. In fact if you created a fast descending piston from TDC because of a shorter rod the dyno does not see this but the car specially road racers or oval track sprint cars the off the corner response is big time quicker. Therefore a dyno will miss it, but if you we did all the fancy math and calculated the speed around an oval track (for example) the car will be faster by ET calculations and weight + speed & ET will show as more power! That is why I love doing this video to highlight my departure from dyno and flowbench results and I feel you see thru this so I thank you...
Been with this work I need these things to my big block Ford have a 521 10 oh, one compression P 51 Heads St., roller cam, heavy car. Your tips are very, very interesting. Very nice ideas. I’ve heard your name from many many many years, didn’t you start out working with Chris Kaufman the name rings a bell? I believe you had a 460 powered fox body once? I miss going to Palmdale Raceway.😢
Stevo, yes Kaufman did hire me to race for KPI years ago and we set the first 10 & 9 sec. pass here on the West Coast setting the fastest passes and winning the FFW events that was held at Palmdale and Famoso. The BBF Fox was done by KPI and I was hired shortly after to run their drag program.
Very good info. I knew some of this this stuff. Did not think about the oil tensioner ring. Good to know I wonder how this would work on a 390. I got one in. Fox I play with for local 1/8. Grudge fun
Should work on most engines with old skool ring types.
I have a 1974. 390. Stock bottom end 410. Pistons. 8 5. Cr. Lowriser heads. 274. Hyd. Runs. 7 .70. S. 1/8. Shifting at just 5k I really am curious by removing the second ring and modifying the oil tensioner s. If it would pick up 30 ft tq im going to try it just to see.
@@dce428 I did that o my 394 back in 2000 with everything FE he said. It still screams like a banshee . 14 ft lbs to turn it.
that was great thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I'm definitely trying all of these things. I'm at 3300 ft elevation and noticed my 5.0 really likes 16 degrees of advance. The alternator and "smog" pump tricks are next. I haven't tried it yet, but what is your opinion on electric water pumps for the street? Oh one last question! What is your opinion on a 306 with a 5.4 connecting rods? Is it better just to go to 347? Oh does the piston flip apply to aftermarket pistons as well, like on a 347? Ok now I'm done. Thank you.
Most new cars today run an electric water pump so I am sure somebody out there makes it very well but of course the price would be a bit much. Better go to a 347 over any stock stroke 302 engines. There are many good stroker kits out there and I use Scatt most of the time and happy with the quality and power. Just make sure you order the flat top pistons non dish type.
great videos Ben,im watching and liking your older videos.i run a fe 428 in my 66 comet street car.any tips for the old FE?
Will do this soon!
Funny how thinking can change...
Remember my brother's "Corvette" 327 he had put in a '72 Nova.... How when he had to rebuild it, he took the crank for machining and specifically asked for 30 under. As a kid I wondered why he would want to remove more material from an already "small" small journal crank. As an adult I realize now he wanted to maximize the amount of rubber he could lay down on those suburban streets with his open diff Chebby.
Doing whatever it takes for power! Smart.
Great video Mr. Alameda-I have done many of your low buck modifications to my 1976 SBF. Mr. Smokey Yunick experimented with installing roller bearings for the crankshaft. I recall he found that the roller bearings only helped at low speed, and with a proper crank/bearing clearance, could duplicate, via bearing clearance & oil pressure, the roller bearing performance with typical crank bearings. What is your bearing clearance specs?
With regards to the second piston ring delete, did blowby increase-would a gapless type top ring compensate for the second ring? Thank you, Tony.
Gapless definitely helps no doubt and bore prep and ring material used will also factor into the equation. I use the basic rule of a thou for every inch of bearing diameter!
Very good.
Thanks Terry.
@@benalamedaracing2765 hi Ben. I really like the truth in your words. I'm currently getting things together for a 311 CI and. Solid roller,with what should be around 11.2 to 1 static compression. I'm not a professional engine builder per say, but I have had some really nice hot rods. I'm 66, and live in Az, where people genuinely frown on anyone have a serious street ride. I'm originally out of Houston,where it's all about horsepower on the street. So I find myself possibly doing this build in my garage. I'm pretty good at math and I understand the concepts of tight clearances. The motor will be based on a working ROM range of 2500 to 6500. Pretty small for a solid roller. However it going into a regular cab swb Ford ranger, 2wd. 3.73 LSD, with a 5 speed. Should be quite the highway star. Any ideas or suggestions, would be greatly appreciated. Have a great evening
that was interesting, always looking for something extra, I've enjoyed several of your video's. About shutting off the alternator at wot, do you have a switch on the linkage or gas pedal? How do I do that?
I have the switch @ the linkage so I can access it easily.
Thanks for sharing your experience mr alameda.could ya still flip piston around on a inline six.good ya explain your opinion on intake and exhaust valve lift for any combination.peace
If it has a dot on the pistons it is possible to flip it and gain power. On an unknown combination I would flow test the heads and see where the peak flow @ valve lift tells me how much duration and valve opening I need to achieve my goal.
If you are going to be grinding the crank any good but at all, you can offset gring it, get the pistons out the hole just a bit more, if it's cut .030" then .015" offset , push the piston out . 015" higher add that bit more to the stroke,
I have done offset grinding to do these and it helps and also takes the top ring closer to the deck!
Fantastic
Thanks Patrick for supporting my channel big time! Throw me any questions if you want to and appreciate the feedback.
I used to build single cyl honda race motors. If the rules didn't say the second ring had to be there we left it out. If it did have to be there we would heat treat the tension out so they just float in the bore. Tighten up the top ring gap or run gapless rings. I was wondering and you answered!
You got that right with the process or may I add something else, run a smaller bore second ring and it saves you all the headaches of the heat treat for tension. This way when they really nit picked your engines it will still showing radial tension is still there.
@@benalamedaracing2765 You're amazing! I never would have thought of that. Definitely a good choice for a "stock" class. The heat treating is very time consuming granted the oven is doing the work.
Lots of new information. I never even thought of………
A lot of old school tricks there, did you ever polish the side beams on the rods and take weight off the crank? I remember they used to sell oil valley shields
Yes it helps connecting rod strength when you polish the sides and removes many of the stress points on the surface.
My shop teacher told me back in the 50s there wasnt much money around, so they would actually take the old pistons and shot peen them so they fit well in the bore again, some people even made their own piston rings> Nowadays you can buy everything, heck theyre even remaking the exotic stuff that only thr works teams had
No better teacher than experience!
Too many of our secrets given out though😂
There are a ton more and contemplating how much I can talk about! lol
Thanks Randy.
Wow thanks
Thanks David!
Great stuff, I’ve also heard of guys retarding the cam timing anywhere from 4-8 degrees! Tricking the engine thinking it has more duration upstairs!
It works if you are racing the dyno for big numbers and many times it can backfire! It usually makes your car suffer from bottom end and mid range pull so be careful and proceed with caution. In short, there is a big difference in dyno and track tuning!
Best ever
Thanks sir!
I say the same thing. It's only illegal if you get caught. I was always reading the rules and making notes of what it didn't say you couldn't do. One of the classes we built engines for didn't have a cc rule on the head but the rule was an overall height measurement of the head. We cut the heads and welded up the top and machined it down to the spec. We could take .100 off and you couldn't tell unless you were really really familiar with those engines. If you're not in the gray area or flat out cheating you aren't trying hard enough.
It figures we are only cheating if we got caught! lol
@@benalamedaracing2765 The class we actually ran in nobody ever caught us. We got protested our fair share but you had to specify what it was you wanted to have checked not just go through the whole motor. Lots of it was going through boxes of rods looking for the longest ones and and the right piston to keep it below zero deck since that was the max. I was always worried if the motor got checked hot after a race the rod would have stretched a thou or two and be illegal but that never happened.
A blast from the past stormin Norman wow like racin Jason what memories
I was lucky to be part of the 5.0 revolution back in that time!
All little tricks add up... and how about a cooler thermostat ?
Shoot! Wish I'd had this information when we ran stock 1600 class off-road!
We could have shortened the barrels and the piston tops!
Anything to get an advantage is a plus in all our efforts!
Have wondered about grooving the bearings to simulate narrow bearings, reduce friction! The groove can lube the bearing all at once, instead of from the oil hole around the bearing, it could cool / lube the bearing better, allowing a more narrow bearing, or wider grove, just a rough guess, 2-3 mm on a typical 5.0 Chevy or Ford rod beating, possibly same for the mains, even cam bearings, I think I'd try a few sets on the Dyno or run stand, to get the width right, before just hitting the road, I'd say 5-6 mm would be absolutely the most, maybe slightly more on the cam bearings, a bearing 1/4" reduced width, is a lot, if it worked out could be considerable friction reductions, seems a groove is better than a narrow bearing, because it still is riding on the pressure of the oil, (or a thicker oil film, than the rest of the bearing) so research and testing needs to be done before just removing .030" deep groove, half the width of your bearings, they could burn up, they may require more pressure, more volume, to keep the bearing cool,
Need the surface to handle the load and narrowing perhaps a groove takes away from the surface loading. If you had a wider bearing to start with it may be good but somehow some SBC bearing are already too narrow to start with. Good question and observation James!
As I’m searching it keeps referring to a .10 bearing I have an experimental motor I’m building following ur skills to see how it works I appreciate ur experience
If you have bearing questions call the manufacturer they may be the best help!
I been curious. Why not try more offset, like 2-4x of a stock offset! What could happen? Like in the neighborhood of 3mm offset? And coat the skirts, and go over the bore, with a fine hone, after a rough hone to make the bore feel smoother still have the coarse crosshatch to hold oil . then do a fine hone, it should feel smoother to the piston, with a coated skirts, it should feel smoother!
Ben, do the smog pumps last reasonably well sucking greasy fumes? I need a vacuum pump for my 8 stack setup, and I was considering this until someone told me it would die right away. What's your take on this? With a catch can, do you suppose it would hold up for a long time?
Hi mr alameda when you where talking about 30 degree vavle angle did you have any sealing problems on the seat or did you have a interference angle between valve and seat.as I'm going to try it as I'm only revving engine to 6000 rpm.i heard you should put a confirmation groove on the valve to help it seal what's or opion thankyou.peace
No need to place an interference angle due to the fact your valve springs pressures are low enough already and it might not seal firmly on the seats! A good valve job is all you need and it would really be responsive all thru out with basically stock everything!
Great content, thanks for the tricks. Can I also do these tricks on a 351w?
If it is basically a stock block it will work just as well or even better actually!
@@benalamedaracing2765 Do you think it will throw the balance off?
@@DaOnE51T, it will not affect it in a bad way. You should try it and have fun!
How to cheat on the street🤔.........Subscribed😎
The second ring delete trick… would it make a difference in a boosted or nitrous setup? What I’m asking is would you not recommend doing it in that application?
I have run them in nitrous as well as boosted and paying attention to any kind of combustion coloring below the top ring! If it stays clean then you are basically sealed real good. If there are residue below the ring then I would try a different ring material or bore prep!
30* valve angle . like Pontiac did a long time ago ? how about radius valve seat ? also Pontiac guys did back in the day . all good tips here, back it the old days we had to read magazines to get tips like this. No internet back then.
Thanks Frank! 30* seat actually flows very well specially if the combination is mild with a moderate amount of lift for street performance.
When you mentioned to ditch the second ring...... Is there a substitute low tension ring that could replace it instead of ditching it entirely?
Or would you need a custom piston?
Depending on your pistons perhaps you can option for a second ring with a napier design which has a lot less drag than a stock ring pack!
Hi Ben, I call machine shop for cylinder head ls and I told him I want 0.50 off mill head and he said that too much. Well I said Ben told me that 0.50 mill off ? Or maybe I'll have 0.20 off mill head I guess 😮? Thanks Ben. But on ls how much would you take off mill ??😮
Can you do a video about coyote motor 🆚 LS motor
I will try sir.
if you have wore out bores, how does the less tension oil ring and removed 2nd ring handle? does oil control become an issue then?
Yes if the bore is far from perfect there will be leakage and I would not try them because there will be too much getting past the rings.
Hey Ben = we’ve met a few times at the track /born and raised in Atwater village-anyhow -wondering how much power u get from raising the ports??
Adam, thanks for reaching out and miss my days there in Atwater. What street did you live at? Anyway, raising the ports depending on the heads yielded big power without loss of torque down low and the mid range! I do these exclusively for people wanting to get more power with whatever they have now. What kind of head or engine are you looking at?
Ben, can we still remove the second ring when using the molly larger ID top ring, and do these expanding top rings increase ring grove/lip to cylinder, please mate, mike
As I showed if there are no carbon residue on the space below the top ring to the second you can do these. I just do not know what you are describing as larger ID top ring. It will be ok as long as the ring groove is deep enough to keep a minimum amount of inner bottom clearance.
I do have to say it’s a great pleasure to see ur videos I’ve been watching a lot of them Man U give a lot of knowledge of the way it use to be I really appreciate you man you have brought back a lot of memories from the 90s racin Jason bill divine and stormin Norman jimmy larocca these guys were legends in my time. A lot of knowledge man thanks
Thanks Tony and I worked on Stormin Norman's car with the prototype Twisted Wedge cylinder head before it went to production. There are many more and it will eventually be posted as well.
Clemix ms117 po10 I have these sitting around forever Ben are u familiar with the part number if it fits a 351?or if it’s a 10 over
Ben I have a question teguatding oil clearance I’m building a 351 Windsor 408 turbo 9.5 compression using eagle forged crank rods etc and I was looking at the main bearing part number Ms1432 hx extra clearance is this a better option to run for more oil ? Is it better using the standard size I built one similar oil pressure was at 50 psi cold what’s ur opinion on this thanks
Would you advise removing the second ring on a budget nitrous motor? I know oil and nitrous don't mix is my reason for asking
Chuck, I will follow up with a video of the single ring piston from Stormin Norman's 5.0 Championship winning racecar. It ran two stages of nitrous at the time and we did not have any breakdown in the oil because we constantly ventilated the block with a vacuum pump. It is almost a must have just to make sure!
Great info man! I've been building SBF engines for many years and never heard most of your great tricks...I'm definitely going to start using them on future engine builds...especially like the oil ring tension reducing tip.. PS. I remember Stomin Norman racing his convertable 5.0 back in the 90's...Met him and his friend Denny at a Fun Ford event in Dallas one year ...They had the fastest 5.0's around..
Thanks for your comment and support!
That was all Jack Rousg prepared stuff.
Hi Ben I was looking to find some info on these bearings and I came across a company called lunati selling them in size .021. Is that enough clearance on a rebuild that has he .002 clearance?
A thousandt clearance for every inch diameter is sound advice.
Any plans for a continuation of this video?
I will consider other avenues to proceed and explain more stuff! Thanks.
302 ho e303 camshaft slivolite flat top pistons gt40p heads trick flow spring upgrade 39 thickness head gasket would it be a clearance problem.
Nope it will have good clearance and do it with no problems.
I just recently left a comment extra block and I had to experiment with. What would you suggest ring Gap. With running nitrous.
Follow the manufacturers ring gap suggestion and you will be safe with that with or without the second rings.
Won't the bending the oil ring trick cause oil consumption?
You have to leave some meaningful drag like anything if there is not enough tension inside it will pass oil up instead of controlling it. Go carefully and if it slides in it is probably too loose!
Why does oil run at normal temperature around town, but get hot as soon as you get on highway? Highway cruise at 80 mph is 3800 rpm. This cruise scenario indicates 21 in manifold vacuum.
Under load creates additional heat specially around the bearing load areas and with friction and combustion heat the oil becomes the coolant besides the cooling system. Oil removes a lot of the bearing surface heat and idlng or slow driving does not do this as much.
Can I apply these tricks to Gen VI BBC?
It works for just about any engine.
So, if I remove the second ring, do I still want to do the oil ring mod? If not, which one frees up more hp?
Depends on the manufacturer but from what I have seen the oil rings drags more than the second rings.
Advancing the camshaft is another trick for power
Many tend to overcam their engines and advancing it actually helps in many instances. To add to your comment as well, cam manufacturers usually add 4* of cam advance because they well know this scenario happens!
@@benalamedaracing2765 they have been for a few years, they used to not years back.
All this sounds like a cheap motor you go into 2-3 times a year! The 302 is a class or cheap bracket motor! We ran 351 Windsors! I suppose the same principles,, but I think I'll open up the Gao on the second ring! We ran a cast piston 351 for 2 years that would run 7:0, to 7:0s on 93 pump gas, ran it 2 years, run 6.5] (1/8 milr) with a 100 shot, but going to a 150 shot made little difference! Sold it to a guy with a street car.
Agree 351's a better choice than a factory 302.
I thought I was a Ford Guy ? I'm just a mechanic with a toy.
Do not matter Coil as long as you are a gearhead at heart!
If you're not cheating you're not trying.
Absolutely sir!
Can you build me a engine
I am sick and trying to recuperate for the moment and perhaps soon will be back to normal.