I don't know why this wasn't included in the video, but when you make the mold, glue (or otherwise attach) a conical piece to the top of the master. This way the mold will naturally have a funnel included to pour the resin in. In terms of resin leaking out of the sides, I would put the two pieces of the mold together, tape the sides for extra protection, and sandwich the mold between two pieces of wood and put rubber bands or clamps on it. This way the mold does not deform by the pressure of whatever is holding it together. Pour the resin in slowly, tap it against the table a couple times to dislodge any air pockets that might form, and top off. I've seen dozens of comments below asking these questions, and I don't know why they haven't been answered yet. Hope this helps.
@@ErikNonIdle i caught the same lol, maybe a short dowel or something could be used.. but also, even with that, this mold would be sitting in the wrong orientation. it should be upright, and at that point it probably wouldn't stand.
Thank you! I spent a fruitless half hour looking for this information before I found you. You did a thorough and entertaining video with exactly what I needed.
Actually, this part because it has a flat bottom could be molded without the clay by taping off the inner side of the opening and gluing the master with top facing up to foam core. Make the box walls the same and pour the silicone. When cured separate it from the bottom foam core, turn the box over, remove the tape, and push the silicone with the master deeper into it so you can pour silicone for the other side. Do that the same as in the vid. To make the casting, pour a little resin into the top half and "squish" the bottom half onto it. This forces the resin to fill the mold and the excess gets squeezed out the sides. It's messy but it works. Or you could mold in or cut a pouring/vent hole(s).
OMGeeeeee!!!! This is amazing! I’ve been not wanting to try even starting to try making two piece molds because it seemed so intimidating. I’m beyond excited about trying this now!!
I bought a case of monster clay in medium online. I found a 10% off code and it was a little cheaper than Amazon. I wish I could have gotten a mix of light and hard in that case but I have a feeling the medium will be my favorite 🤩
You have to make a pour spout (usually cork-shaped) that will be attached to the master and then pour the silicone around it, it will give you a reference point on your new mold and a spout to pour your casting material into. Some molds will also have air spouts, which are thinner and help prevent bubbling. (AKA he needed to stick some rubber in there somewhere and failed to do so presumably)
Thank you so much for THIS, been needing to make a/n couple of 3 part molds and I'm the epitome of a newbie. To the matter of fact I've never made a mold before in my life and I was scared until I saw your video thank you so much
Why haven’t I heard of this monster clay. That’s a game changer. Now to figure out soft, medium or hard should I order. I’d like to know which one you used in this video.
If you look at the packet on his desk - there's a squiggle in the "Medium" box... I came here for the exact same question, before realising the packet had all three options printed on it.
I bought monster clay based on this video (soft version). After experimenting with it and pouring silicone on it multiple times, I realised monster clay is bullsh*t. It has never come off cleanly as it does in the video. To be fair, I was trying to mold a very small intricate part (alot smaller than the video). But it always held the part in place rather than the silicone. Orientation is vital to my part, so bieng held by the clay and not sticking to the clay is pivotal. Anyhow, I don't want to write a diatribe. If you have any questions about this, reply to this comment.
I've always had a tough time with clay. Making a level parting line is something I'm not good at. Monster clay might fix that issue. Thank you so much!
😂🤣☺️ Your are really funny, thanks for the laugh and great, very great mold making tip here, I am enjoying all your episodes as just found you👀😃very helpful episode.
Love this video i used Alumilite years ago Thanks for still being around ???????? but question when your making the two part mold how do you pour the Alumite to mole????? Do you have a pour hole???
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I have an object that I have wanted to replicate, but I could not figure out how to do it. If I make the 2 part mold, how do I pour clear resing into the mold?
Being able to melt the clay and have almost no cleanup when removing it is a game changer! Thanks for sharing this. One question though, does it matter which hardness of Monster clay is Used? Would soft melt the easiest, or could a medium come off of the master more cleanly than soft?
Yes, you can use silicone to make a mold of a foam item! However, here are a few tips to get the best results: Use a release agent: Foam can sometimes stick to silicone, so using a mold release like UMR Mold Release will make it easier to remove the foam without damaging it. Apply the silicone carefully: Brush on a thin layer first to make sure the silicone fills any small details, then pour the rest of the silicone to cover the foam. This prevents air bubbles that can distort fine textures. Consider the foam type: Some foams, especially very porous ones, may absorb silicone if not sealed first. You can seal the foam with a thin layer of spray varnish or resin before pouring the silicone.
What is "rubber driver" mold release ? At 4:52 "...some type of release on that first silicon pour... rubber driver mold release" ? I'm thinkin' the word isn't "driver" but sounds like it...
If its a one time mold you can shred up the mold from and add to the pour when making the mold it cure at same viscosity as the cured mold would with using less new product
How do you fill a two part mould that has an opening to fill. I have a two part mould that requires both pieces to be together. How do I seal it? I've tried different types of tape and resin oozes out all over.
I''m sold, I don't use aluminite often. The odd part I can't buy or refurbish. But this is a must to have around after suffering thru the process of a decent mold. Tell your boss you made a sale.
This is amazing thank you! But I have probably a stupid question...why do you need the clay at all? What's the reason that you can't just pour in some silicone, wait for it to cure, put it some keys, Vaseline, pour in the second layer of silicone? Thank you!
Hay about a square ive put rose flake in it but it's not come out the way I want it's about 3 mill high and thr picpro epoxy resin is ment to be good but it's not really and because it only being so small so I would like what it would i have to use without distroying it buddy could you tell me the grits you'd use many thank d 👍😁👌 thank you all the best mates ✌️ peace ✌️
Hey there! 😄 It sounds like you’re working on a cool project with some rose flake in a 3mm-high square, but the finish isn’t quite what you had in mind. No worries-you can fix it up and get the smooth, polished look you want. Here’s a quick guide to sanding and polishing your piece without damaging it. 👍 What You’ll Need: Sandpaper in various grits Water for wet sanding (to avoid overheating and scratches) Polishing compound (optional, for a high-gloss finish) A soft cloth or polishing pad Step-by-Step Sanding Process: Start with Lower Grits: Begin with 400 grit sandpaper to remove any uneven surfaces or imperfections. Since your piece is small, be gentle to avoid sanding too much off. Gradually Work Your Way Up: Move through finer grits step-by-step: 600 grit 800 grit 1000 grit 1500 grit For a super smooth finish, you can go up to 2000 grit or higher. Always wet-sand to keep the resin cool and reduce scratches. Polish It Up: After sanding, use a polishing compound to bring back the shine. Apply it with a soft cloth or a buffing wheel for the best results. This will give the resin a smooth, glass-like finish. Pro Tip: If you’re still not happy with the look after polishing, you can always apply a thin topcoat of resin to even everything out. Just make sure the surface is clean and sanded lightly with 600-800 grit before pouring to help it adhere properly. Let me know how it goes, mate, or if you’ve got more questions! 🛠 Peace and happy crafting! ✌ 📞 Need help? Call us at (269) 488-4000 or email info@alumilite.com.
I Saw a video where a Guy Fixed a He man battle bones. The clips were broken. He made a 2 part mold. Took a Plastic cup. Used a Glue gun & Glued the clip in the middle. Then He poured the rubber into it. Just cut it in half. & He made brand new clips. So if it is a smaller Item Use a plastic cup & Glue gun.
Holy sh1t! Game Changer! Watching Robert Tolone's YTube channel (which everyone should if they haven't) has shown me that I don't need to make two part molds nearly as often as I thought I did. But still, sometimes you gotta. Pourable clay is gold, thank you for this! So I'm clear, it looked like when you were pushing your master into the wet clay substrate, you didn't have to worry about it sinking. Is it really that simple? I don't have to wait for it to cool to a certain viscosity or anything, do I? Also, is Monster Clay cool with platinum-based silicon?
I have a favorite ornament top for ball ornaments. Would I need to break one of my ornaments to get what it looks like on the inside or can you figure out a way not to have to break it? Please help anyone?
Just found this looking into Monster clay. it's a meltable pouring clay = so much time saving than applying clay yourself bit by bit, smoothing it off, etc. bit pricey, should be a good value 4.5 lbs for $35 now.
Coworker shared this with me as I do some mold-making in our shop. My feedback below. I hope I don't sound too egotistical! I think these are great tips, and every part has unique requirements/challenges: I learned a few tips from that... I have microwaved clay to make a base before, and yes it is quick and easy, but the "going off to get a snack" portion can trip me up, because I'll come back to it being already too hard. It also only works on parts that have a flat split line (which is often not the case), and doesn't cover situations like pass-throughs, die locks, severe undercuts etc. That said, it might be worth trying more often just to initially establish the part in the mold, and then I can do all that other stuff (including the non-flat split line) manually. It does also require a good bit more clay to do a pour - you can't leave any voids, so you'd better have enough. I tend to prefer the cardboard boxes over legos just because I can make them exactly the right dimensions, and I think assembly would probably be pretty similar time-wise, but I guess legos could get pretty close. Legos may release cleaner, but they also won't split at the corners and fold down...on the other hand, they will be perfectly square, and exactly the same dimensions when flipping the mold over (the cardboard mold boxes can get destroyed or be slightly off from perpendicular), so they seem like they'd be worth trying for that reason alone. I also like the way his clay cutting tool makes grooves. The rounded profile achieves the same air release as the circular dents I make with the head of an acorn nut, but the continuous line probably helps seal up leaks better, so I actually like that. I also very much approve of taping around molds - it'll slow any accidental leaks, and it just helps hold the mold together. A couple of things he could have maybe done better (or maybe he did do but didn't show, for sake of simplicity/simplest case): -Degassing -Casting under pressure to eliminate any bubbles trapped at high points (probably wasn't necessary on this piece but still - rarely hurts) -Spray-on mold-release is easier/faster to apply and less likely to miss a spot, although you do want to brush it in and re-coat -Use different dye colors for the silicone halves, to ensure proper mixing, but also to clearly see the separate halves and if anything bonded to one or the other -He also didn't show the process of adding sprues or vents; I personally like to hot-glue my sprues on before pouring the top half of the mold, then add vents and reservoir bowl with a sharp syringe and razor knife, respectively.
@@MLeeBarrette I've never thought to make videos...I've only been making molds about 5 years now, and it's probably 10% or less of my day job, so I still don't consider myself an expert. But I do think making videos would be fun. I'm glad someone liked my tips! I actually usually default to 2-part molds- don't be intimidated by them!
You can make money on TH-cam once you get so many subscribers and views. You just have to use royalty free music. My husband videos his tractor stuff and has enough following to make a couple hundred bucks every so many months. It’s a good little chunk of change every now and again 🤗
My bearded dragon has passed... I used the life mold alginate and was unable to make her fingers come through the mold. Are these products safe to use on a "sleeping" dragon? I don't wanna let her go yet.
So... you have a mold with no way to get the casting resin into it. Maybe you should have mentioned siphons and venting and stuff. I've never liked the cap-mold technique, which leaves too much room for error, especially for something that _should_ be as precise as dice.
I don't know why this wasn't included in the video, but when you make the mold, glue (or otherwise attach) a conical piece to the top of the master. This way the mold will naturally have a funnel included to pour the resin in. In terms of resin leaking out of the sides, I would put the two pieces of the mold together, tape the sides for extra protection, and sandwich the mold between two pieces of wood and put rubber bands or clamps on it. This way the mold does not deform by the pressure of whatever is holding it together. Pour the resin in slowly, tap it against the table a couple times to dislodge any air pockets that might form, and top off. I've seen dozens of comments below asking these questions, and I don't know why they haven't been answered yet. Hope this helps.
It's called a sprue and you are 100% right. I was wondering how he would get his casting material into that mold😂
@@yougosquishnow Weird that wasn't included, right?
@@ErikNonIdle i caught the same lol, maybe a short dowel or something could be used.. but also, even with that, this mold would be sitting in the wrong orientation. it should be upright, and at that point it probably wouldn't stand.
Yes. A sprue AND air escape vents are important. BUT the melted Monster clay was worth watching the video!
Honestly I would repost this with this vital information included, otherwise this feels very misleading.
Excellent video!
Thank you! I spent a fruitless half hour looking for this information before I found you. You did a thorough and entertaining video with exactly what I needed.
I'm loving your YT channel and videos... amazing. Just starting out in making moulds for SFX. Thank you for making things look simple and achievable.
So happy to hear!!
Once you make the mold. How do you get your wax or resin to fill both sides
Thank you for this needed tutorial. I was still scratching my head about how to make a two sided mold and be able to cut the mold apart! 👍😊
Finally, another use for the huge box of monster clay on my shelf.
Actually, this part because it has a flat bottom could be molded without the clay by taping off the inner side of the opening and gluing the master with top facing up to foam core. Make the box walls the same and pour the silicone. When cured separate it from the bottom foam core, turn the box over, remove the tape, and push the silicone with the master deeper into it so you can pour silicone for the other side. Do that the same as in the vid.
To make the casting, pour a little resin into the top half and "squish" the bottom half onto it. This forces the resin to fill the mold and the excess gets squeezed out the sides. It's messy but it works. Or you could mold in or cut a pouring/vent hole(s).
OMGeeeeee!!!! This is amazing! I’ve been not wanting to try even starting to try making two piece molds because it seemed so intimidating. I’m beyond excited about trying this now!!
I bought a case of monster clay in medium online. I found a 10% off code and it was a little cheaper than Amazon. I wish I could have gotten a mix of light and hard in that case but I have a feeling the medium will be my favorite 🤩
That is pretty awesome! Love the use of Lego's as a mold box. I have been doing just that for years and they work so great! - Heidi
This is really cool, but where do you pour into once you’ve created the mold?
You have to make a pour spout (usually cork-shaped) that will be attached to the master and then pour the silicone around it, it will give you a reference point on your new mold and a spout to pour your casting material into. Some molds will also have air spouts, which are thinner and help prevent bubbling. (AKA he needed to stick some rubber in there somewhere and failed to do so presumably)
Thank you so much for THIS, been needing to make a/n couple of 3 part molds and I'm the epitome of a newbie. To the matter of fact I've never made a mold before in my life and I was scared until I saw your video thank you so much
We're glad to hear we could help! Thanks for watching!
Why haven’t I heard of this monster clay. That’s a game changer. Now to figure out soft, medium or hard should I order. I’d like to know which one you used in this video.
If you look at the packet on his desk - there's a squiggle in the "Medium" box... I came here for the exact same question, before realising the packet had all three options printed on it.
@@theelectricmonk3909 good catch thanks
Excellent! I too had the same question. Very astute! 🤗
Soft! The others are very hard
Nice! Just subscribed. You do some cool stuff.
I bought monster clay based on this video (soft version). After experimenting with it and pouring silicone on it multiple times, I realised monster clay is bullsh*t. It has never come off cleanly as it does in the video. To be fair, I was trying to mold a very small intricate part (alot smaller than the video). But it always held the part in place rather than the silicone. Orientation is vital to my part, so bieng held by the clay and not sticking to the clay is pivotal. Anyhow, I don't want to write a diatribe. If you have any questions about this, reply to this comment.
Great video! Now to go molding!!
I've always had a tough time with clay. Making a level parting line is something I'm not good at. Monster clay might fix that issue. Thank you so much!
I really like the lego trick and that monster clay looks like really great stuff. I'll need to get some for a project soon.
😂🤣☺️ Your are really funny, thanks for the laugh and great, very great mold making tip here, I am enjoying all your episodes as just found you👀😃very helpful episode.
That is really cool. the possibilities are endless
Love this video i used Alumilite years ago Thanks for still being around ????????
but question when your making the two part mold how do you pour the Alumite to mole????? Do you have a pour hole???
Yes great question
This was a thing of beauty. Truly.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I have an object that I have wanted to replicate, but I could not figure out how to do it. If I make the 2 part mold, how do I pour clear resing into the mold?
Nice and fresh 🤠👍 idea
Well done 👍✅
Thank you so much for putting this video together. What if the master material is clay, what changes would there be to this process if any?
This is fabulous! Gonna save th s video for reference.❤️
I've watched several of your videos and I see all this fascinating work explaining resin types, molds and pours.
Any resin infusion?
That is awesome!
Being able to melt the clay and have almost no cleanup when removing it is a game changer! Thanks for sharing this. One question though, does it matter which hardness of Monster clay is Used? Would soft melt the easiest, or could a medium come off of the master more cleanly than soft?
Yea so how do you pour the mold now that youve encased the whole thing in silicone ?
How are you going to fill that mold now?
I want to make a mold of a foam item. Can you use silicone with foam?
Yes, you can use silicone to make a mold of a foam item!
However, here are a few tips to get the best results:
Use a release agent: Foam can sometimes stick to silicone, so using a mold release like UMR Mold Release will make it easier to remove the foam without damaging it.
Apply the silicone carefully: Brush on a thin layer first to make sure the silicone fills any small details, then pour the rest of the silicone to cover the foam. This prevents air bubbles that can distort fine textures.
Consider the foam type: Some foams, especially very porous ones, may absorb silicone if not sealed first. You can seal the foam with a thin layer of spray varnish or resin before pouring the silicone.
Brilliant!!
Will you do a video on making a phone case with monster clay
What is "rubber driver" mold release ? At 4:52 "...some type of release on that first silicon pour... rubber driver mold release" ? I'm thinkin' the word isn't "driver" but sounds like it...
Believe he said rubber to rubber release agent. Vaseline is the best I'm told
so can I pour the second half of the mold after the 30 mins demold time or do I have to wait for the first half to cire full 24 hrs?
If its a one time mold you can shred up the mold from and add to the pour when making the mold it cure at same viscosity as the cured mold would with using less new product
Can you use any oil based clay for making a silicone mold, not two part…thanks really helpful video.
This looks awesome but it comes in soft medium and hard. How do you know which one to get please?
He used medium
Good tips. Can M clay be used with resin for dams and backing cracks etc? Thanks
I never used monster clay and was wondering can you reuse the clay or is it one time only?
I'm not 100% sure but I think it's one time only
@@AlumiliteCorporation Nope, it's reusable! You can melt and reuse it as many times as you want.
Can i use my monster clay sculpture in the monsterclay if i put a thin layer of plastic on it ?
Are we ever going to get an answer as to how to fill the mold with resin?
I guess not
Where do I get silicon matts? Pour them?
How do you fill a two part mould that has an opening to fill. I have a two part mould that requires both pieces to be together. How do I seal it? I've tried different types of tape and resin oozes out all over.
I''m sold, I don't use aluminite often. The odd part I can't buy or refurbish. But this is a must to have around after suffering thru the process of a decent mold. Tell your boss you made a sale.
This is amazing thank you! But I have probably a stupid question...why do you need the clay at all? What's the reason that you can't just pour in some silicone, wait for it to cure, put it some keys, Vaseline, pour in the second layer of silicone? Thank you!
Does the clay work with all of your silicones? Trans 40/plat 40? Thanks
Hay about a square ive put rose flake in it but it's not come out the way I want it's about 3 mill high and thr picpro epoxy resin is ment to be good but it's not really and because it only being so small so I would like what it would i have to use without distroying it buddy could you tell me the grits you'd use many thank d 👍😁👌 thank you all the best mates ✌️ peace ✌️
Hey there! 😄 It sounds like you’re working on a cool project with some rose flake in a 3mm-high square, but the finish isn’t quite what you had in mind. No worries-you can fix it up and get the smooth, polished look you want. Here’s a quick guide to sanding and polishing your piece without damaging it. 👍
What You’ll Need:
Sandpaper in various grits
Water for wet sanding (to avoid overheating and scratches)
Polishing compound (optional, for a high-gloss finish)
A soft cloth or polishing pad
Step-by-Step Sanding Process:
Start with Lower Grits:
Begin with 400 grit sandpaper to remove any uneven surfaces or imperfections. Since your piece is small, be gentle to avoid sanding too much off.
Gradually Work Your Way Up:
Move through finer grits step-by-step:
600 grit
800 grit
1000 grit
1500 grit
For a super smooth finish, you can go up to 2000 grit or higher. Always wet-sand to keep the resin cool and reduce scratches.
Polish It Up:
After sanding, use a polishing compound to bring back the shine. Apply it with a soft cloth or a buffing wheel for the best results. This will give the resin a smooth, glass-like finish.
Pro Tip:
If you’re still not happy with the look after polishing, you can always apply a thin topcoat of resin to even everything out. Just make sure the surface is clean and sanded lightly with 600-800 grit before pouring to help it adhere properly.
Let me know how it goes, mate, or if you’ve got more questions!
🛠 Peace and happy crafting! ✌
📞 Need help? Call us at (269) 488-4000 or email info@alumilite.com.
What do you add to the mold (after it's all finished) to make the item you're trying to replicate?
We usually use Alumilites Amazing Clear Cast Resin
I Saw a video where a Guy Fixed a He man battle bones. The clips were broken. He made a 2 part mold. Took a Plastic cup. Used a Glue gun & Glued the clip in the middle. Then He poured the rubber into it. Just cut it in half. & He made brand new clips. So if it is a smaller Item Use a plastic cup & Glue gun.
Seems pretty simple for a flat object but for a 1/4 scale human sculpture, it would be more complex.
How do you get the resin inside?
Holy sh1t! Game Changer!
Watching Robert Tolone's YTube channel (which everyone should if they haven't) has shown me that I don't need to make two part molds nearly as often as I thought I did. But still, sometimes you gotta. Pourable clay is gold, thank you for this!
So I'm clear, it looked like when you were pushing your master into the wet clay substrate, you didn't have to worry about it sinking. Is it really that simple? I don't have to wait for it to cool to a certain viscosity or anything, do I?
Also, is Monster Clay cool with platinum-based silicon?
I have a favorite ornament top for ball ornaments. Would I need to break one of my ornaments to get what it looks like on the inside or can you figure out a way not to have to break it? Please help anyone?
Did you use hard, medium or soft Monster clay?
Just found this looking into Monster clay. it's a meltable pouring clay = so much time saving than applying clay yourself bit by bit, smoothing it off, etc. bit pricey, should be a good value 4.5 lbs for $35 now.
Show me how to pour that two-part mold
Does it matter if it’s hard monster clay, for this purpose?
Which grade are you using?
Coworker shared this with me as I do some mold-making in our shop. My feedback below. I hope I don't sound too egotistical! I think these are great tips, and every part has unique requirements/challenges:
I learned a few tips from that...
I have microwaved clay to make a base before, and yes it is quick and easy, but the "going off to get a snack" portion can trip me up, because I'll come back to it being already too hard. It also only works on parts that have a flat split line (which is often not the case), and doesn't cover situations like pass-throughs, die locks, severe undercuts etc. That said, it might be worth trying more often just to initially establish the part in the mold, and then I can do all that other stuff (including the non-flat split line) manually. It does also require a good bit more clay to do a pour - you can't leave any voids, so you'd better have enough.
I tend to prefer the cardboard boxes over legos just because I can make them exactly the right dimensions, and I think assembly would probably be pretty similar time-wise, but I guess legos could get pretty close. Legos may release cleaner, but they also won't split at the corners and fold down...on the other hand, they will be perfectly square, and exactly the same dimensions when flipping the mold over (the cardboard mold boxes can get destroyed or be slightly off from perpendicular), so they seem like they'd be worth trying for that reason alone.
I also like the way his clay cutting tool makes grooves. The rounded profile achieves the same air release as the circular dents I make with the head of an acorn nut, but the continuous line probably helps seal up leaks better, so I actually like that.
I also very much approve of taping around molds - it'll slow any accidental leaks, and it just helps hold the mold together.
A couple of things he could have maybe done better (or maybe he did do but didn't show, for sake of simplicity/simplest case):
-Degassing
-Casting under pressure to eliminate any bubbles trapped at high points (probably wasn't necessary on this piece but still - rarely hurts)
-Spray-on mold-release is easier/faster to apply and less likely to miss a spot, although you do want to brush it in and re-coat
-Use different dye colors for the silicone halves, to ensure proper mixing, but also to clearly see the separate halves and if anything bonded to one or the other
-He also didn't show the process of adding sprues or vents; I personally like to hot-glue my sprues on before pouring the top half of the mold, then add vents and reservoir bowl with a sharp syringe and razor knife, respectively.
Do you have any videos? I love your tips and tricks, especially using two different colors for the separate halves... genius!!
@@MLeeBarrette I've never thought to make videos...I've only been making molds about 5 years now, and it's probably 10% or less of my day job, so I still don't consider myself an expert. But I do think making videos would be fun. I'm glad someone liked my tips! I actually usually default to 2-part molds- don't be intimidated by them!
You can make money on TH-cam once you get so many subscribers and views. You just have to use royalty free music. My husband videos his tractor stuff and has enough following to make a couple hundred bucks every so many months. It’s a good little chunk of change every now and again 🤗
Where are the vents & fill spout?
You don't need vents and fill spouts with this mold design!
You can see it at 6:07 in the video.
Pour spout ?
This is great if the object you are doing the 2 part mold for is anything BUT monster clay. Good tips nonetheless.
My master parts always stick to the monster clay when I try to separate it from the first layer of silicone.
My bearded dragon has passed... I used the life mold alginate and was unable to make her fingers come through the mold.
Are these products safe to use on a "sleeping" dragon?
I don't wanna let her go yet.
So... you have a mold with no way to get the casting resin into it.
Maybe you should have mentioned siphons and venting and stuff.
I've never liked the cap-mold technique, which leaves too much room for error, especially for something that _should_ be as precise as dice.
great vid thanks, incredible!,,, but bobs not my uncle.
Uh, how about showing us how to pour into the mold now?
I've been looking for a video to confirm my theory that using monster clay this way is viable.
Once I used monster clay I never tried any other kind, watch out it gets HOT if melted
Do you need a special crackpot just for your monster clay? Also a special microwave? Don't want to use my household stuff if it will be harmful.
Looks like chocolate milk :P
Just tell us.
Nvm found it
No response to questions, bad!
Too much talkative man.
Why do Americans overtalk in every frigging video