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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2022
- We are back at it with the Case 450B Bulldozer. Can we overcome the tar and get it fired up this time? Tune in to find out!!
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Should we dig a hole for it or do any of you have ideas for us!?
Did I mention break lines lose at injectors first an spay wd 40 into breather to fire off . Or put a low volume electric fuel pump on to prime pump to injectors
I have a roosa master pump in a '68 Case tractor with the 188 diesel. The tractor sat in the bush for 17 years with fuel in it. I have several videos of the removal, rebuild and reassembly of the pump. I'm still chasing some issues but the rebuild on these rotary pumps are well within the capabilities of a compentent home mechanic.
Bring an air compressor out there and pressure up the fuel tank with air and leave 2 injection lines loose then pressurize until you see fuel come out
1st thing I would've done was to set up a dummy, clean fuel supply to deliver clean fresh fuel (absolutely imperative on diesel systems with a rotary pump of any description!).
Secondly, get that injection pump off and give it to a reputable company to rebuild for you, watching you strip it down in the open cringes me up, these things are rebuilt in laboratory clean premises!!
Good luck from here on in just the same, love to see her fire up👍👍
.Good job worthy of appreciation, good luck with all your work
I bet the pump is clogged up with that tar. A rare down and good cleaning couldn’t hurt!
You guys keep going you are doing fine work this is not easy to work on like your videos
So you might have already figured it out since this was posted two weeks ago but here's my two cents worth of knowledge. I bought a Case 450 that had been sitting for years. Same problems as you are having. I bypassed the entire fuel system up to the injection pump. Those two filters on the side are notorious for leaking. If fuel can get out then it just stands to reason that air can get in. I used a plastic inline filter from an external tank and got it on the trailer. After cleaning the tank as well as I could I hooked back up to it but I kept the inline filter. Cheaper to replace. Each time a little more rust came out of the tank I just replaced the cheap little filter and kept on running. Some might say that you can't do that long term but I have seven years on mine now and know of three other 450's that have been changed to match mine.
That’s good advice… we’re already in need of an additional pre filter
It just needs a little TLC
That somebody else didn't give it, once you get it to crank up for ya, it'll start up ever time.
TH-camr "Salvage Workshop" rebuilt a mechanical pump like you have. He does a great job documenting the rebuild. The title of the video is "It STILL won't start. Let's find out WHY! (Quick SHOP Tour) ~ Day 2 ~ 1965 Allis Chalmers 645 Loader" You'll be able to rebuild the fuel after watching this video.
Ours is going now too! Check out our pump rebuild.
When one been sitting for years I take line lose at filters pressure rise fuel tank an retrieve some fuel for inspection before cranking then pull filters inspect and change put back together pressurize system again and bleed at pump then crank
Not usaully although I haven't been around it myself at all either. I've just been around other ones is all. I'd recheck those fuel filters for water inside of them.,or for A jelly like gel type forum film inside of either one of those filters. Cause it's possible it could have sucked in some of the tanks dirt.,or debris into those along with bad fuel plugging.,or blocking off the fuel flow. I woukd check inside of those inlets to both of those filter housing to aswell just to be on the safer side of things is all.
It's one of those things called back tracking to go forwards again. Witch is called going forwards in reverse right like the pink fylod song in in the bush.
dirty / stale fuel within pump has got it stuck, give it a gently tap on the body , and re try . It may free up by squirting plusgas release oil into the pump feed with an oil can
(Salvage workshop) just rebuilt one of them pumps. You could probably write him on here, might be able to help you out.
It’s rebuilt… stay tuned for the video this Friday 👀
Wd40 to get it running it lubricates as well works as starting fluid
Get pump warm with plumber's torch. May take a couple cycles. Drain pump and fill with solvent n let soak
what a breath of fresh air. too many will it run videos have a fool or two who act and talk like a glue sniffing junior high school drop out lol. that was a bit much but I'm enjoying your content. i did subscribe.
That is from based on what y'all said.& were saying.& what I seen myself to. Although it could be something broken. That's not always the case in those situations like that though.
It could be something like A sherd key way.,or some of the teeth are missing off of one of the gears.,or even A broken.,or worn out chain. Or just it's shaft driven And the notched out end is missing part of the tab., known as the notched out ear groove in the bar keyed shaft for priming.& pumping fuel through the pump.& up through the lines to the injectors. Now it's possible not always likely to have clogged up injectors causing the problems.,or out from the tank. Into the pump.& to the injectors pump maybe clogged up from setting so long. I personally think it's just frozen up inside of it is all myself.
The pump was turning we saw that when we had the top off. Needless to say it’s apart on my bench as we speak 🤣
Hey get yourself A can of PB-BLASTER spray to use on that machine.,or more like 4 cans.& some starting fluid to.
If the engine is good. I could start in about a half hour I went through this on a 580 B. I would check the metering valve to see if it is stuck or the plungers are struck. Mine was easy after cleaning fuel lines and changing the filters. I tapped on the pump with a wrench and the metering valve came lose. But then it would start but it would not restart. I added some essential lube to the fuel and when started again. I let it run and that seemed to clean out the pump. Just letting fuel sit in the pump that might help. I went through this it is very frustrating when you think it should start. I think I would pull the cover off and manually open the metering valve if it is closed then crank it over .If you have fuel your done if not the plungers are stuck in the pump. You can move the throttle and the shut off but if the metering valve is stuck it won`t have any effect. Nice video
Same engine isn’t it?
Check return line from pump to tank, if it’s has fuel try using a low pressure electric pump, use it to cycle fuel and try starting it. Fuel from the pump looked dark, was it grainy with bits in it? Could you verify timing, it is keyed with a fixed timing but if pump and gears were removed it could be 180 degrees out. Timing doesn’t seem to be the problem because there is no smoke.
Pump is off as we speak. Stay tuned!
pour some diesel in the intake port and try it -
stick with it.
It will start!
I was not aware that you could get pressure without the system being sealed up. I know I would have a way of making sure the pump is in time with the engine before just removing as chasing it will result in a never start......... timing is critical on diesel engines
make sure you stay tuned for the next video!
Start in the wide open position on the throttle. Pressurize the fuel tank
I remember Steve Watroba dissembled the Roosa master pump on his antique backhoe ( apparently you're not supposed to) but he got it running years ago now . Check out his videos on that maybe that will give you some insight into how they work.
I’ll have to look!
@@dieseJL You definately should. It was a fantastic series of videos of an Oliver coming back alive
That IP needs to come off for cleaning/rebuild. The delivery pistons in the rotor are stuck.
BTDT
That’s what’s happening now!
Find the diesel lift pump and prime the fuel lines with it's priming lever , then bleed all injector lines , The lift pump is not repairable and cost only $ 40
Your fuel pump HAS got o be sealed to pumpp fuel
Put the top on pmp. Good luck.
Reverse the rubber hoses that you just put on and see if you have those backwards it sounds silly but maybe
how would you guys are allowed to get that much big forest lands in america...soo relaxing to watch
Keep spirit bro
Check the key way.,or if it's A notched shaft check it to it might've snapped into inside from over the years of use. Some have gear drive.& some have A shaft drive.& some are chain.& gear driven.& then there's your kind that's gear to gear driven also.
Ladd has the best chicken in illinois!we drive almost 2 hours to get there a couple times a year!
Yeah that place is amazing. I like the crunchies 🤣
It cranks like my Dad's 1969 Plymouth Fury--- how does diesel taste? Could be a bad fletzer valve ... Fletch?
Taste like chicken?
One thing is you have to crack the injection lines because air won't open the injectors only liquid fuel will and I would say let a expert rebuild it don't try to do it yourself it is very complicated thing to do
We’ll see…
Those pumps aren't bad if you know them. I'd recommend pull apart a dummy pump that you don't care about. They aren't just a pump
Theirs alot of precision to those pumps. I am fooling with a j d 544 wheel loader for a guy it been sitting 15 yrs. Not the goo but same issue
Roosa master pump. 1, 500 for a pump. Insite go look up Warren on western truck repair I think it is , scroll through his catalog of vids you'll find stanadyne injection pump
Review that.
Check out Salvage Workshop's recent video on a common problem and fix on the Roosa master pump.
th-cam.com/video/f34J0iLLqmc/w-d-xo.html
Those pumps wear out and go to crap on the inside. Needs a rebuild, just like mine does.
We did it, check out the video!
Lift pump needs to pump fuel to the injection pump !
It’s a gravity feed system most case machines don’t have lift pumps
@@michaelwillcutt2619 My 450C has one but this is a 450B. Don't see how it could be operated uphill for any period of time with a gravity feed system. Something has to pull a suction on the fuel line to pull a useable amount of fuel to the injection pump.
Progress.
Progress indeed!
there should be no fuel in the top of the pump,only in the rotor head.all the fuel movements are done in the rotor head fuel in from the tank and fuel out under pressure to the injectors.the top part of the pump is the mechanical throttle and fuel shut off mechanisms i would suggest that the pump should be removed and serviced by an injection pump service company!
I wonder if roosa knew about that when they attached the return line to the top 🤔
Well hate to say this but you need too open the throttle you have it shut off at least set it to half throttle
the problem is the lift pump.
Don’t think it has one?
@@dieseJL All diesel engines have lift pumps to pressurize the injector pump.
It is gravity. Tank is above the pump. Allis chalmers 7000 tractor tank is below the pump and still no lift pump but does have a hand prime pump 6 cylinder roosa master on those
Ask Deboss garage. He has forgot more than most people know about diesel engines
Instead its in in the diesel engine now is all.
Hey - they don’t always fire right up. It’s “Character Building”.
Just subscribed!
Very true! Thanks for the sub, it will run SOON!
Ill bet they ran it out of fuel before abandoning it which probably screwed up the pump
Try ether
Hi bro
sup
Salvage workshop just put out a video this morning where they went through a pump like that on Alice Chalmers wheel loader. Here’s a link th-cam.com/video/f34J0iLLqmc/w-d-xo.html
Replace the pump
DO NOT REBUILD THE PUMP YOURSELF
There are special tools and knowledge required to rebuild a injection pump. Most dealer shops send them out.
Ope, too late!!