Only way to restore an old tractor and end up with a small fortune, is to start with a large fortune!! I’m restoring a 1960 1801 industrial, same engine…. Nice work!
Yep as soon as I seen that I was like he's gonna have a sticky lifter or stuck, bent, broke but any rebuilder will tell you we become complacent at times lol
Just found this channel i have a 871 diesel select-o-speed i bought at a auction a few years back good running machine very fuel efficient only problem is the trans has issues im debating on swaping it over to a manual. Probably will repaint it at that point. I had a 841 i repainted in high school. Great tractors lots of power for the size
Always use NEW ROD BOLTS, replace the bolts, and test to see if they need to be resized , yes they will need to be removed, but I'd definitely replace rod bolts
Exactly. Conrod bolts are “once off use” bolts. Definitely never to be used a 2nd time. They are actually called “torque to yield” bolts. They are designed to stretch to a point beyond which, they shrink back to their original length once used. So in essence they are stretched when torqued the first time the engine is assembled, and when disassembled they don’t shrink back to their original length. When you try to use them the second time, being already stretched, the original torque specs are enough to cause them to yield and snap or strip. And if you te-use them and they do torque up, it will be a lot higher torque than originally and they risk snapping under load when the engine is running. So older mechanics, who are used to rebuilding these older Ford 4 Cylinder wet sleeved engines in the Ford N9 (Ferguson TEA 20 motors, know that you can’t re-use the big end caps bolts. In a lot of respects it’s lucky that those ones did break on you, because it highlights this exact problem. Hopefully you were able to obtain replacements for them all, because otherwise you run the risk the old ones that remained may snap on you in use, which would be a real shame.
You are doing a great job on the engine rebuild. I sold professional quality tools for almost 40 years. I don't trust Craftsman torque wrenches. Not sure who makes them. Anyway, I'd be suspect of yours. Have it calibrated or at leas tested. I hope your lower end holds up.
That's an interesting oil seal. Almost wonder if it would work better to just pump that slot with silicone. I'm sure there is a good reason for that style.
Great job. You’re doing great. Some time it gets overwhelming, I’m a field mechanic so I know how it gos. At least your in a shop.. I know you do stuff n the field too, I seen you videos. 😁😁
Yep as soon as I seen that I was like he's gonna have a sticky lifter or stuck, bent, broke but any rebuilder will tell you we become complacent at times lol
I'd check out scat, see if they make a crank for it! And port the oiling system, radius any sharp turns, remove restrictions, look into improved oil pumps. Seems it can use the help, why lon earth do they use Soo many rings? Only a bell has more rings!! 😆, Maybe look into a oil cooler, atleast gauges . to be sure the pressure and Temperature is correct! But a turbo and a T-5 in a truck 👍
isn't that rough spot on the crank in line with the oil holes and do the bearings have a center relief that lines up with it, if so just clean/file it smooth so it wont cause bearing damage and run it. remember all mechanical things wear in before the wear out
It would have been nice to see how you sealed the sides of the rear main seal. I have had people said they filled it with silicone. Otherwise good job of showing repair procesd.
i think you're right. i know this will take longer, but i would not use that crank either. time is the biggest element next to your conscience. would you use that tractor. would you sell that tractor. not with that crank. good for you. best wishes
You are supposed to install the side seals on the rear main cap before you install it in the block and there are pins that are super to be installed after you set the cap in and before you torque it. That crankshaft should have never been machined it was junk when it was pulled out . A good machine shop would have told you that instead of taking your money .
Curious on why you had resleeved. I have 1957 800 gas it has sleeves. The 1958 and up gas and diesel engines do not have sleeves. I had mine bored oversize it was cheaper and easier than changing the sleeves. Was your block worn too much to rebore?
That really sucks , maybe not as much demand as the gas not sure of the numbers but the diesels are a lot less common than the gas. They were supposed to be the cheapest priced diesels at the time. oversize pistons are usually the same casting just left bigger when they are turned to finish. That makes me think twice about buying one @@dieseJL
It’s honestly just as cheap as boring. Every rebuild kit you can buy includes sleeves. I think with block machine work and a rebuild kit i was in $1100
@@dieseJL im hoping you include total prices at the end of the series, best tractor restoration ive seen on youtube or tv so i guess best ive ever seen haha
I'm so sorry mate but you should hang up your tools before you kill anymore engines. You don't have the skills or the common sense to stop when it feels wrong
Most important rule when assembling an engine, "NO CORDLESS IMPACT WRENCHES". You can't tell thread quality 😕 Please find a mechanical mentor. Don't give up 👍
You should wash a block after coming from machine shop before putting parts in it. plus cleaning out the galleries in the block, you left lots of grit and dirt in that block,
Tenho um Ford trator 600 .com motor adaptado do trator Ford 8 BR perkin d4203 . 8 BR é a linha 800 do EUA 4 marchas e reduzida .que entendi por ser tão parecida a mecânica
Just Saying had a machine shop ruin a complete motor overhaul by takeing to much off 1 rod cap! , werid part is should’ve trust that dude after he said thought never going to get cap inside sirfave round!. End result was after dropping over $500.00 in the motor! Throw that rod thru the block! ! Completely waste of money & time! The hood of that is that machine shop no longer in business! Out the money! No longer having enough money for new block ! End up saleing whole car for scrap! Shows there are people who say that know what they doing but don’t!!
![TEEDEE TADA - DIAMOND NARAKORN X LEGO LYKN [Special Dance Performance]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QgtZedFeumA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for keeping the old equipment running. Good job!!!
Yes, please on the injection pump. Fascinating stuff. Your patience is admirable.
You are a very good teacher, i learn a lot, your explanation are awesome, thank you for sharing your good and bad experience 👍👍👍👍
Interesting to see how the double function clutch is constructed!
Ps. Old school tip: put small peices hose on rod bolts so less likely to bang on rod sirfice of the crank! When installing pisston
Only way to restore an old tractor and end up with a small fortune, is to start with a large fortune!! I’m restoring a 1960 1801 industrial, same engine…. Nice work!
Thanks! Good engines they seem
Nice job!! Love these old tractors
Thanks 👍
That lifter you forced in is a no no
My old heart skipped a few beats on that one.
Yep as soon as I seen that I was like he's gonna have a sticky lifter or stuck, bent, broke but any rebuilder will tell you we become complacent at times lol
Just found this channel i have a 871 diesel select-o-speed i bought at a auction a few years back good running machine very fuel efficient only problem is the trans has issues im debating on swaping it over to a manual. Probably will repaint it at that point. I had a 841 i repainted in high school. Great tractors lots of power for the size
Yeah I just fired mine up finally. Excited to use it!
Its kool that u do this stuff. I really enjoy watching your videos. Keep it up
great video and i would like to see more updates please! 🙂👍
Really enjoy all your videos, can’t wait for the paint vid. Keep up the great work
Great video, great series.
Glad you enjoy it!
Always use NEW ROD BOLTS, replace the bolts, and test to see if they need to be resized , yes they will need to be removed, but I'd definitely replace rod bolts
Exactly. Conrod bolts are “once off use” bolts. Definitely never to be used a 2nd time. They are actually called “torque to yield” bolts.
They are designed to stretch to a point beyond which, they shrink back to their original length once used. So in essence they are stretched when torqued the first time the engine is assembled, and when disassembled they don’t shrink back to their original length.
When you try to use them the second time, being already stretched, the original torque specs are enough to cause them to yield and snap or strip.
And if you te-use them and they do torque up, it will be a lot higher torque than originally and they risk snapping under load when the engine is running.
So older mechanics, who are used to rebuilding these older Ford 4 Cylinder wet sleeved engines in the Ford N9 (Ferguson TEA 20 motors, know that you can’t re-use the big end caps bolts.
In a lot of respects it’s lucky that those ones did break on you, because it highlights this exact problem.
Hopefully you were able to obtain replacements for them all, because otherwise you run the risk the old ones that remained may snap on you in use, which would be a real shame.
Brings back memories for me.. I bought a "bargain" 860 for $600, had to put another $3000 into it. Ran great, but not the "bargain" I hoped for.. :)
Gas or diesel?
@@dieseJL gas
I wish this was a gasser right about now haha
Great video ,I have 3 super major I still use on the ranch for moving irrigation reels they are great
Good job! I enjoy your videos! Keep it up!
Thanks!!
Looking real good,
Thanks 👍
Good job man.
Nice project
Thank you! Hopefully it turns into a nice tractor haha
I'd be really tempted to just buy a 4bt swap it in there! Call it a Cummings tractor! Or a 4-53 Detroit, put a GMC badge on it!! 👍
The series isn’t done yet 🤣🤣
You are doing a great job on the engine rebuild. I sold professional quality tools for almost 40 years. I don't trust Craftsman torque wrenches. Not sure who makes them. Anyway, I'd be suspect of yours. Have it calibrated or at leas tested. I hope your lower end holds up.
Sure enjoyed your video thank you
Thanks for the support!!
That's an interesting oil seal. Almost wonder if it would work better to just pump that slot with silicone. I'm sure there is a good reason for that style.
Great job. You’re doing great. Some time it gets overwhelming, I’m a field mechanic so I know how it gos.
At least your in a shop.. I know you do stuff n the field too, I seen you videos. 😁😁
Thanks! Yeah working in the ac on this one is nice lol
Yep as soon as I seen that I was like he's gonna have a sticky lifter or stuck, bent, broke but any rebuilder will tell you we become complacent at times lol
I'd check out scat, see if they make a crank for it! And port the oiling system, radius any sharp turns, remove restrictions, look into improved oil pumps. Seems it can use the help, why lon earth do they use Soo many rings? Only a bell has more rings!! 😆, Maybe look into a oil cooler, atleast gauges . to be sure the pressure and Temperature is correct! But a turbo and a T-5 in a truck 👍
I have no words
isn't that rough spot on the crank in line with the oil holes and do the bearings have a center relief that lines up with it, if so just clean/file it smooth so it wont cause bearing damage and run it. remember all mechanical things wear in before the wear out
It would have been nice to see how you sealed the sides of the rear main seal. I have had people said they filled it with silicone. Otherwise good job of showing repair procesd.
I used the felpro seal and used generous amounts of rtv with it. I did not use the metal pins with it.
amzn.to/3reBdPe
That crank is fine it’s a tractor not a race truck
Man I was so on the fence
That crankshaft is junk! You don't check with a hammer. Rust pits if not deep will polish . Crankshaft are magnifluxed not hit with a impact
👍👍👍👍👍👌Absolutely amazing!!!
Fascinating. I wish I had your skills!
i think you're right. i know this will take longer, but i would not use that crank either. time is the biggest element next to your conscience. would you use that tractor. would you sell that tractor. not with that crank. good for you. best wishes
Awesome
Yes, you shouldn't have to drive in the lifters
And a impact on rod bolts?? 😮
👍👍👍Нестоит так ложиться под висячий двигатель, техника безопасности должна быть безопасной. Удачи и успехов. 🤝😉
Hello I am a first time and I want to see more
Who ever did your sleeves didn't chamber the bores that's why you had so much trouble putting in your piston.
I went thru the bolt stripping thing with a cheap chinese torque wrench. Ended up spendin $200 on a USA brand well worth it.
Yeah maybe I should check that 🤔
On my ford 1510 the Connecting rod bolts are 20 lbs torque
You are supposed to install the side seals on the rear main cap before you install it in the block and there are pins that are super to be installed after you set the cap in and before you torque it. That crankshaft should have never been machined it was junk when it was pulled out . A good machine shop would have told you that instead of taking your money .
That makes sense. I really struggled with them. Thanks for the tip!!
Did you rebuild the water pump? or was it still good.
You or someone should put that engine or a similar one in a ranger or explorer, adapted to a T-5
Could you keep it naked un painted just sprayed with old oil and diesel ?
I like paint 🤣
Curious on why you had resleeved. I have 1957 800 gas it has sleeves. The 1958 and up gas and diesel engines do not have sleeves. I had mine bored oversize it was cheaper and easier than changing the sleeves. Was your block worn too much to rebore?
They don’t make oversized pistons for a diesel
That really sucks , maybe not as much demand as the gas not sure of the numbers but the diesels are a lot less common than the gas. They were supposed to be the cheapest priced diesels at the time. oversize pistons are usually the same casting just left bigger when they are turned to finish. That makes me think twice about buying one @@dieseJL
It’s honestly just as cheap as boring. Every rebuild kit you can buy includes sleeves. I think with block machine work and a rebuild kit i was in $1100
@@dieseJL im hoping you include total prices at the end of the series, best tractor restoration ive seen on youtube or tv so i guess best ive ever seen haha
What did you use to strip the paint off tractor
you didn't check crankshaft thrust bearing clearance
Did you clean that block yourself first before assembly...?
Never assume it's clean from someone else's workshops...
☹🇬🇧
They tanked it and all. But you are right I assumed they did a good job 😶😶😶
Invest in an engine stand.
I need one for 3406’s lol
Is that a metric stump?
Just what is the torque on the rod bolts it sure seemed you were pushing hard on those bolts and they shodnt be much more than 40 foot pounds .
50, it definitely seems like a lot haha
On my 86 ford 1510 it calls for 20 lbs for the connecting rod bolts!
I'm so sorry mate but you should hang up your tools before you kill anymore engines. You don't have the skills or the common sense to stop when it feels wrong
Most important rule when assembling an engine, "NO CORDLESS IMPACT WRENCHES". You can't tell thread quality 😕 Please find a mechanical mentor. Don't give up 👍
This looks a bit like a A model engine,
💪
You should wash a block after coming from machine shop before putting parts in it. plus cleaning out the galleries in the block, you left lots of grit and dirt in that block,
BUILT FROD TUFF !
Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
Tenho um Ford trator 600 .com motor adaptado do trator Ford 8 BR perkin d4203 . 8 BR é a linha 800 do EUA 4 marchas e reduzida .que entendi por ser tão parecida a mecânica
If that motor goes away put f85 V8 in it
As long as it’s a diesel lol
Amazed there is no surface rust for sitting around for months. Awesome job…
There is a 4 letter warning that you neglected "Ford"
DUDE ?
no oil , yet rubber gloves....
It's not a Motor! it's a Engine!
Just
Saying had a machine shop ruin a complete motor overhaul by takeing to much off 1 rod cap! , werid part is should’ve trust that dude after he said thought never going to get cap inside sirfave round!. End result was after dropping over $500.00 in the motor! Throw that rod thru the block! ! Completely waste of money & time! The hood of that is that machine shop no longer in business! Out the money! No longer having enough money for new block ! End up saleing whole car for scrap! Shows there are people who say that know what they doing but don’t!!
First thing you should do is clean it again. Can't trust the machine shop.
It's a ford......... 😉
Yeah the poor man’s tractor, I can’t afford yellow and green lol
you should never be rebuilding a engine!
Why?
Why?
Why?
Can't handle rubber gloves. 👎👎👎👎👎
If someone slod the tractor then it was never abandoned in the first place.
Its kool that u do this stuff. I really enjoy watching your videos. Keep it up