Lead Climbing 101 - How to Find Rests
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
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Today we’re going to take a look at one of the most important skills in lead climbing - how to find rests.
Resting in the middle of a route is where sport climbing and bouldering differ. When we boulder, we can go full throttle and empty that gas tank for those 10 moves or less. On a sport climb, there are around 40 moves, which makes it very difficult to get from bottom to top in one continuous push. This means that we have to utilize pace and constantly monitor our energy.
To demonstrate how to do this, I’ll be climbing the orange route you see here. It’s a combination of vertical and steep climbing with a fun roof traverse.
The grade is a 5.12B. There are 40 moves, and 9 clips including the anchor.
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Climbing Gear
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High quality chalk | Frictionlabs Unicorn Dust 10oz | amzn.to/3dSvP8t
Crag pack (doubles as soft pad) | Black Diamond Pipe Dream 45 | amzn.to/3bxFiAg
Quick draws | Black Diamond Hotforge Quick Draws | amzn.to/2WvXN3V
Climbing rope | Black Diamond 9.9m Rope (70m) | amzn.to/2Lwb4D6
Belay gloves | Black Diamond belay gloves | amzn.to/2y3FNEF
Belay glasses (very useful for outdoors) | NiceClimbs Belay glasses | amzn.to/2yXYNVu
Belay device | Petzl Grigri | amzn.to/2WAhg3A
Harness | Black Diamond Momentum Harness | amzn.to/2T1xzEj
Hangboard | Beastmaker 2000 | amzn.to/3fQmvUh
Climbing/Outdoor Apparel
Most comfortable underwear | ExOfficio Give-N-Go Boxer Brief | amzn.to/2WxZL3K
Good outdoor pants | Prana Stretch Zion | amzn.to/2zGccBo
Warm puffy for cold season | Black Diamond Cold Forge Hoody | amzn.to/3cuf6b4
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Useful & Inspiring books
Movement based climbing training | Self Coached Climber | amzn.to/2UnSEJO
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Vibrating foam roller (legs, forearms, fingers) | Hyperice Vyper 2.0 | amzn.to/3dPEcSe
Massage gun (shoulders, chest, calves, forearms) | Hyperice Hypervolt | amzn.to/3h5l84B
Videography equipment
Microphone | Blue Yeti | amzn.to/2yXs6aJ
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Seriously one of the best walkthroughs of a route I’ve ever seen. Please make more.
Very nice and thorough. I like the 2 cameras so we can see everything whats going on
I'm new to climbing and and also new to watching climbing content, and maybe it's the marketing but modern bouldering with all those dynos seems to be the more popular (or even mainstream) version of the sport and I personally see so much more beauty and grace in a nice lead climb than a boulder problem. I guess i don't have a point to make, just really enjoyed the video and wanted to appreciate your style 👌
My endurance is definitely not as long as I'd like so I need to take rests - these tips are super helpful! Thanks!!
use elliptical using also your arms...it helps a lot.
Love your content! More lead videos please!
Would definitely like to see more lead climbing related videos!
Definitely recovered in the editing
This was some good info... Thanks for the video!
nice, i always wanted to show people how to climb with a go pro! But even sweeter that theres 2 cameras!!
Thanks for the tips! Also thanks for the videos, I find them super usefull to upgrade my training
Really great video with useful tips. Thanks for sharing
Nice vid, very specific and helpful
Love it! Thanks for the info, more tips for lead climbing would be awesome!
Usually you can spot a resting point by looking for the big chalked up holds near a quickdraw.
You SURE that's a real 12b??
It's a pretty well known gym. I'd bet he's just strong enough to make it look easy
no way im no pro but that didn't look difficult. those holds were deep
Ok so basically, I think this is a joke. 12b is a grade that has never been climbed by anyone (hardest route is currently Adam Ondra's 9c) and that shall not be climbed for a very long time. He said "5.12b", which is actually 7b.
Jean Kévin little did you know when you made this comment that megos had just sent the worlds second 9c😎
@@Connordrs1123 Now I know it ;)
my gym is not nice and puts hard holds at both the start and towards the end lmao
i have a question tho i started climbing about 3 months ago but stopped bcs i dislocated my shoulder a few days ago when do u think its appropriate to continue progressing im trying to progress from V4 to V5 now
Continue climbing when there is no pain. You can always progress, unless you get injured badly that will step-back your progression
First recover FULLY from your injury, I myself had a strain (A3 and A4 pulley) with my middle fingers in both hands, and I'm sitting out till the injury is no longer a problem.
To increase you grade, GYM, climbing grades 5a to 6b+ you only need good technique and not a lot of strength. From 6C onwards you need strength.
Workout 3 times a week (cardio included) and climb once a 4-5 hour session once a week and your grade will improve, keep the campus board to a minimum as that can easily get you injured if you have not built up a minimum base level of strength required to use it