When you a shop you cant do this but at home when there was no leak in freon you can replace the compressor without the other items. for just this issue. No noise clutch bearing failure. or clutch failure freon still full. Compressor only.
I would not start with the AC compressor, if the AC is working fine, it is probably okay. When the AC is on, the engine has more load on it, and has to work harder. If you have a bad motor mount, this will translate to more vibration from the engine when the AC is on, particularly on the ford 4 cylinder. The rattling you hear is likely something else loose (probably in the exhaust system). Start with a new motor mount to fix the faulty one, and check the exhaust for rattles.
The system will still work without replacing the drier, but you risk premature failure of your new compressor because your old drier won't absorb much more moisture in the air.
You'd have to investigate the blend/mode doors. I have seen blend doors break and complete block the passage of air inside the evaporator housing, it could also be an issue with the air door actuator. Unfortunately to really determine what the problem is, the Dashboard usually has to come out to gain access to the evaporator housing.
Unless the compressor was bad (slim chance. I have a 19 year old Focus. The only thing that has gone bad was that bearing), why not just replace the pulley bearing? Just don't use a cheap bearing.
It sounds like the car likely has a major refrigerant leak. You likely need to have the AC leak checked. A shop can inject dye into the system and then recharge the system, then the shop can use an ultraviolet light to find where the leak is after a few days of running it.
Do you hear the blower motor still running when the air stops blowing? Or does the blower motor become quiet when this happens? If it still sounds like it is trying to push air out, but nothing is coming out the vents, then you have a blend-door problem. If it gets quiet, then the issue is somewhere in the blower motor or electrical to the blower motor.
if i have to replace the hose do I need to vacuum down the system first? my hose has a cut in it and I think that is where my freon leak is coming from
JOE Hyundai Tech if you have a cut in the hose then you most likely have wrong refrigerant. So you would. It need to evacuate the system, however the system still needs to have a vacuum put on it to remove any non condensable gasses. The ac will not get as cold and it would be hard to get the correct amount of refrigerant in the system without first vacuuming it down to negative pressure.
I attempted to follow your instructions are your video witch were very good except the part with the tensioner pulley I can't get mine to give enough slack to get the belt off
I have a 2001 Ford Focus SE Wagon that I bought in June 2013. AC worked fine w/ summer but now going into Fall, when I use the Defrost, even after car is warmed up, the idle drops and almost dies when I come to a stop light. All ok when I drive. I thought it wld be the IAC but turns out it is the A/C compressor going out. Dealership is going to fix it for 800 bucks. No strange sound from it yet.I hope this is what is really wrong.In any case I need Defrost to work esp.in PDX w/ Fall & Winter.
Hi, I have a 2003 Focus SE, when I run my A/C, my car vibrates pretty heavily, but it comes and goes, about 10-20 secs vibrating, then the same amount of time no vibrating. It is most noticeable when I am idling in drive, it doesn't do it as much when parked. Do you think this is the compressor going bad, or one of my motor mounts?
It could be a defective compressor. The only other cause of that symptom that I know of is if you had inadvertently left out the orifice tube (or on a car with an expansion valve, the expansion valve is stuck wide open).
It sounds like you are probably low on freon, see if you can get access to some gauges and check the level of the freon. Or you can always try blindly shooting some in, but you risk overfilling it doing that.
Jeez, I hope the Ford dealership is as thorough and as good as you when they work on my car next week. They did not put on the work quote the Accumulator/Drier assembly. Only the A/C compressor and Orifice tube.. Should I mention that to them ? I hate to tell them how to do their job but for the price it is going to cost me to have this done, I just want to be sure.
So my 01 ford focus a/c isnt working. I don't notice any terrible noices when the engine is running. I filled the a/c with the r134a to 35psi and the ac still wasn't blowing out any cold air. I checked the pressure again and it dropped down to 10 psi within 5 mins. Does that mean I have a leak and I would most likely have to replace some hoses?
So lots of stuff left out to be able to respond properly but you have to be checking the pressures on both the high side and the low side and with the ac compressor running to see if the system is operating properly. If the AC is running and the low side is dropping to 10 it should shut off the compressor as the low pressure switch will turn it off. AC is not easy to diagnose without all the right equipment. It is very much worth $20-$40 that a shop charges to do an AC check. Unfortunately adding refrigerant is not always needed and in some situations can make the problem worse.
Hi, unfortunately I have no way of determining the correct belt size that you need. The only method i have really had any success with when doing custom belt work, is trial and error. Perhaps you can find a local auto-parts shop that will be kind enough to let you try a handful of belts and buy the one that fits.
The orifice tube restricts the volume of liquid refrigerant going to the evaporator. This allows for a pressure drop inside the evaporator which then allows the liquid refrigerant to boil and evaporate within the evaporator. When this happen, heat is absorbed and the evaporator gets cold. Without the orifice tube, (or expansion valve in some cars) the system would not work.
I cannot get the quick disconnect tool to pop the spring lock. I honestly spent about 30 minutes twisting and pulling on it just as you show in this video, to no avail. I'm working on a 2002 Ford Focus, but everything is essentially the same. Is there anything you can tell me that might help?
Ok, First things first, make sure you have evacuated all of the refrigerant out of the system. If the system is still charged, you wont get it off. The quick disconnect tool must get under the little spring that is within the connection on the AC line. You have to push the disconnect tool into the connection to get under the spring, then while pushing the tool in with one hand, use the other hand to pull the line out. It should come right out. The quick disconnect tool should be of good quality. It may be best to pick a connection that is easily visible if possible so you can see closely how it works. Then the harder connections you can do it by feel.
Tim Perham An AC machine or a vacuum pump and a storage tank are used to capture the refrigerant and oil in the system. Most DIYer's have a shop evacuate the system before any AC repair, the DIYer will then remove the failed parts and the dryer and orifice tube, flush the system really well, replace all the needed parts, then go back to the shop to have them vacuum it down and then recharge it. It is almost impossible to do an AC repair without those machines. Also you cannot just add refrigerant when you are done, the system must be pulled down to a negative pressure or vacuum before recharging.
Tim Perham - The quick disconnect end that goes into the spring lock fitting must go under the little spring that is within the spring lock connector. Look at it very close before putting the tool on, then make sure you slide the end of that tool underneath the spring, you push in on the tool to get under the spring, then you pull the connection apart and the spring is lifted over the fitting on the hose end.
I have a 2000 Ford Focus Zx3 DOHC Zetec 2.0L Engine and I went to the auto parts store and there are two different kinds of AC oil PAG 100 or PAG 150......? I called Atchey Ford and they said they weren't sure..
I have a focus 2002. 1.8 Tddi. Doesnt matter if it is or not on A/C when i press it to blow air on 1,2,3 or 4 it starts and blows for 10 sec. It makes an akward noise somewhere from the right side and it stops. doesn't blow air anymore. I allready refilled the refrigerant liquid. There are no leaks nothing. What can it be. I'm waiting for an answer cause with the winter coming i'm going to freeze and be blind because of the misty windows.
That would be a very broad answer I could give you as too whats wrong. Is a check engine light on? If so, that is where you want to start. Get the codes pulled if the light is on and research those codes. If not, then many possibilities exist, do you hear any noises when you engage the AC? Does the engine run perfectly with the AC off?
I just put a AC compressor on my daughters car 02 focus ZX5, I vacuumed and leak tested system, did not replace evaporator, I recharged to 1.6 pounds or 26 ounces my machine uses pounds, I equalized hoses and disconnected, when pump kicks on it almost stalls the car so I checked pressure on the high and low sides both are 150 pounds, that's not right the low side shouldn't be that high could it be the Orifice Tube or a defective pump?
The A/C Compressor Pulley on this Focus looks Alot larger than the one I have installed... In fact, I am installing one JUST Like the one you are installing now.. I was able to install it, only problem i am having now is I believe the belt is too short.. I think I ripped the new compressor out of a dohc or Zetec focus same thing only difference is the pulley size.. Do you know what serpintine belt length I should try?... My current belt length is 70.5
So I got a 2002 Ford Focus ZX5 that I need to change my AC Compressor. I bought AC Refrigerant and within a hour it stopped blowing cold air. I went to get it checked out and they told me the Compressor leaks. So they told me it was the AC Compressor. I bought the compressor. I know there's no fluid in there since it leaks it out. I'm wondering if I would have to change all the parts you did or if just the compressor would be ok. Also if it leaks, where would it be more possible that it would leak from?
+Oscar Esqueda If an ac compressor is being replaced, then you must replace the other components or your new compressor may only last a very short time. ALso the system, should be completely flushed to remove particles from the old compressor that you do not want to get into the new compressor as it will fail all over again. Also almost no AC compressor brand will warranty a compressor unless they also see you replaced those parts and did that flush.
Yes, On almost every component of vehicles nowadays a torques spec should be followed from a factory repair manual. Some parts are extremely sensitive like a plastic intake manifold or hub bearing axle nut and then others are not. Now if you see a professional ASE certified auto technician not torquing something, it does not mean he or she is doing it wrong, just like a professional plumber will tighten a toilet bowl gasket down snug, professional mechanics know when to use a torque wrench and when not. On the other hand, I have seen plenty of certified technicians even at dealerships that cause damage to parts from over or under torquing. If you are doing your own repairs which we promote, then we suggest always following the torques specs for the particular part.
The only thing I never had to worry about with torque was the thermostat housing that bolts the radiator hose to the thermostat. I used a self centering gasket so it didn't matter.
our focus ac is running warm air. While car is running and ac is on I watch the compressor to see how its working. the belt is on the pulley and turning. I watch the 3 bolts on the compressor to see how it moves. the wheel will turn for a 2 secs and stop for 15 secs and then it will turn again for another 2 secs. it continues like this while car continues to run. Have any idea what might be wrong? Great video too
Is it REALLY Necessary to replace the dryer even if I Switched it out as quickly as possible? Meaning putting the a/c lines on first then tightening it down to the bracket?
I have a 2011 Ford Focus SE, and recently every time I turn the heat or AC on it makes a whirring noise. When I checked under the hood, the noise starts as soon as the AC/heater button is pressed, and is coming from that compressor part you replaced. When the AC/Heater is powered on the center cylinder right outside where the belt wraps around does start to spin, but it makes that horrible whirring noise and no cold air. The heater still works though, just not the AC. If I replace the compressor, will I have to replace that other part that was seen at the 11:07 marker? How difficult is this job to do? What would a typical shop charge for both parts and labor for this type of repair?
+Antonio Contreras It sounds like your compressor has failed internally. This would require replacing the compressor, dryer and expansion valve. Also a very thorough system flush should be performed before installing any new parts as the compressor failing internally almost always means you have small pieces of the old compressor now circulated through the entire AC system. Some items you also have to replace the condenser if you cannot get all the pieces out. As far as a shop charge, this can vary between $600-$1000 depending on the brands of parts used.
Auto Parts Direct To You Thanks for the reply. Yea, you were correct, luckily when I purchased the car, I also purchased a very pricey extended warranty. They ended up replacing the compressor, along with the other parts, and flushing out the system. The whole job was estimated at $2100, but I only paid the deductible of $100. Thank goodness too, because $2100 expense on a new car is way too much.
ID F IT STILL WON"T COME OFF>>>>All good but mine just wouldn't move, even with the spring released. The final solution was to free the pipe from inside the clips in wheel arch, liner removed first, and clamp the solid pipe in the wooden jaws of a Stanley Worbench placed by the car, to gain some purchase without perforating the pipe. Some change in shape was expected by this stage, and achieved! . Not circular any more, but the problem was solved. Eventually the joint started to shift using a lot of circumferential force, alternately back and forth as with a rusted on nut, to start it moving. I have pictures but no idea how to post them here??? Once off I realised the problem is just awful design netalurgically, soft aluminium pipe binding on each other, not corrosion , especially when the new replacement drier jammed half way on. Doh! So I gave both pipes a severe relieving with wet and dry and steel wool, then a coat of silicon grease and a very quick screw push back on. Still a struggle. These joints are just plain stupid and unnecessary, a rubbish self jamming design that only works well for first assembly on the production ine, and is rubbish by the time it needs servicing. Thanks Ford. Even a simple nylon or PTFE coating on one side of the joint would make it easier to dismantle w/o expesnive colateral damage, instead of near impossible. A nut and O ring is fine everwhere else, why not here?.
My next step would be checking the negative side of the clutch for a good ground. Maybe after that, checking the gap of the clutch coil (0.35-0.75 mm) and even the resistance of the coil wingdings. If I'm still looking for the problem at this point, then visually inspecting the coil wingdings for discoloring as signs of heat.
just a quick question. How difficult it is to change just the manifold hose? Do I need the whole assembly? I have an 03 Focus and I have a leak in the hose assembly just in front of the compressor. What is the actual part that I need to order from your website. Thanks
Hello, unfortunately there is a few different engine options on the 2003 Focus and they have different hoses. If it is a 2.0L DOHC engine then it does have a manifold assembly which is the 2 hoses and has a muffler device built into it. Here is a link below to the hose assembly at Amazon but please make sure to read the vehicle fitment chart and match your exact engine. Also it is not hard to change but you do have to evacuate and recharge the AC system properly (usually best done at a shop) and also the receiver dryer and orifice tube should be replaced if the system is opened. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5C44I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000C5C44I&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=WTMIRUJG4WTPBNTU
What's a good way to know if it's just the a/c clutch or the compressor is bad? It hasn't been getting cold for sometime, the other day it went from making a strange noise to bogging down the engine to almost a stall. When the a/c turned off everything was back to normal. I popped up the hood and noticed when the a/c turned on the clutch was freezing up. Is that just a bad clutch or more of the hole unit. My guess was a bad a/c clutch... Thanks
+Mike Bullock If the engine almost stalled then the compressor is failing internally and locking up. Also it is very rare to just replace a clutch nowadays as the rest of the compressor is usually also worn and when you put a brand new clutch on a worn compressor, then you end up replacing the compressor shortly there after and it comes with a new clutch. While it seems like you are saving money up front, you end up paying way more with either labor, parts and or refrigerant evacuations and recharges.
I have an 06' Focus which was producing white burning smoke from the belt area. I opened it up and the a/c compressor pulley was not spinning...is this the cause of the from the belt gliding over a stuck pulley or is it not supposed to spin with ac off?
Sean Dosh my 07 focus is doing the same thing and seems to be putting a drag on the motor, going 55mph I'm pulling 3100 rpms. Thinking I'm going to have to replace the A.C. compressor.
my 04 zx3 makes these noises only while the ac is on but the other day it started making the noise even when the ac is off and my car stalls out when i out it in park is it just this or more
If you have excessive noise coming from the compressor, then you most likely need a compressor to start with. Make sure that if you do it yourself that replace the accumulator and the orifice tube, Also be sure to flush the rest of the AC system before installing a new compressor. If the compressor is failing from the inside out, then internal pieces can circulate into other AC components and then eventually go into the new compressor and thus kill the new compressor all over again.
+Oliver Morrell Oil type is Pag Oil, there should be a sticker under the hood that states how much oil the system takes. Our compressors come with oil and require no extra oil added
+jasonyes69 power and ground? If you have power and ground, then the issue is in the clutch coil. Other than an open circuit in the coil, there is a spec on the air gap of the clutch. 2.4L engines 0.012-0.020 and 3.0L engine 0.016-0.024
When you a shop you cant do this but at home when there was no leak in freon you can replace the compressor without the other items. for just this issue. No noise clutch bearing failure. or clutch failure freon still full. Compressor only.
I've saved your video for future reference appreciate the help. I need a video to that's doing pretty good "2005 Ford Focus noisy motor mount"
I would not start with the AC compressor, if the AC is working fine, it is probably okay. When the AC is on, the engine has more load on it, and has to work harder. If you have a bad motor mount, this will translate to more vibration from the engine when the AC is on, particularly on the ford 4 cylinder. The rattling you hear is likely something else loose (probably in the exhaust system). Start with a new motor mount to fix the faulty one, and check the exhaust for rattles.
thats not just "gone bad", thats the aircon pulley has sheared off its innermost clutch spokes(theres cooling grooves cut through the pulley).
The AC doesn't engage, but the engine is smooth, no issues. I'm in a 2007 Focus sedan.
freon leaked out look for a oil spot. or check around compressor seal for oil.
Thank you for this in depth video
The system will still work without replacing the drier, but you risk premature failure of your new compressor because your old drier won't absorb much more moisture in the air.
You'd have to investigate the blend/mode doors. I have seen blend doors break and complete block the passage of air inside the evaporator housing, it could also be an issue with the air door actuator. Unfortunately to really determine what the problem is, the Dashboard usually has to come out to gain access to the evaporator housing.
Unless the compressor was bad (slim chance. I have a 19 year old Focus. The only thing that has gone bad was that bearing), why not just replace the pulley bearing? Just don't use a cheap bearing.
Yes, anytime an A/C system is opened for any reason you should replace the filter-dryer. Acid is the number one cause of failure in a system.
It sounds like the car likely has a major refrigerant leak. You likely need to have the AC leak checked. A shop can inject dye into the system and then recharge the system, then the shop can use an ultraviolet light to find where the leak is after a few days of running it.
Thanks for good video guide!
Do you hear the blower motor still running when the air stops blowing? Or does the blower motor become quiet when this happens? If it still sounds like it is trying to push air out, but nothing is coming out the vents, then you have a blend-door problem. If it gets quiet, then the issue is somewhere in the blower motor or electrical to the blower motor.
if i have to replace the hose do I need to vacuum down the system first? my hose has a cut in it and I think that is where my freon leak is coming from
JOE Hyundai Tech if you have a cut in the hose then you most likely have wrong refrigerant. So you would. It need to evacuate the system, however the system still needs to have a vacuum put on it to remove any non condensable gasses. The ac will not get as cold and it would be hard to get the correct amount of refrigerant in the system without first vacuuming it down to negative pressure.
I attempted to follow your instructions are your video witch were very good except the part with the tensioner pulley I can't get mine to give enough slack to get the belt off
I've found that when this is the case, most-likely the belt was replaced with one that was too short.
can you tell me what size the disconnect tool was?
I have a 2001 Ford Focus SE Wagon that I bought in June 2013. AC worked fine w/ summer but now going into Fall, when I use the Defrost, even after car is warmed up, the idle drops and almost dies when I come to a stop light. All ok when I drive. I thought it wld be the IAC but turns out it is the A/C compressor going out. Dealership is going to fix it for 800 bucks. No strange sound from it yet.I hope this is what is really wrong.In any case I need Defrost to work esp.in PDX w/ Fall & Winter.
Hi, I have a 2003 Focus SE, when I run my A/C, my car vibrates pretty heavily, but it comes and goes, about 10-20 secs vibrating, then the same amount of time no vibrating. It is most noticeable when I am idling in drive, it doesn't do it as much when parked. Do you think this is the compressor going bad, or one of my motor mounts?
Motor mount. Passenger side usually.
It could be a defective compressor. The only other cause of that symptom that I know of is if you had inadvertently left out the orifice tube (or on a car with an expansion valve, the expansion valve is stuck wide open).
It sounds like you are probably low on freon, see if you can get access to some gauges and check the level of the freon. Or you can always try blindly shooting some in, but you risk overfilling it doing that.
Jeez, I hope the Ford dealership is as thorough and as good as you when they work on my car next week. They did not put on the work quote the Accumulator/Drier assembly. Only the A/C compressor and Orifice tube.. Should I mention that to them ? I hate to tell them how to do their job but for the price it is going to cost me to have this done, I just want to be sure.
So my 01 ford focus a/c isnt working. I don't notice any terrible noices when the engine is running. I filled the a/c with the r134a to 35psi and the ac still wasn't blowing out any cold air. I checked the pressure again and it dropped down to 10 psi within 5 mins. Does that mean I have a leak and I would most likely have to replace some hoses?
So lots of stuff left out to be able to respond properly but you have to be checking the pressures on both the high side and the low side and with the ac compressor running to see if the system is operating properly. If the AC is running and the low side is dropping to 10 it should shut off the compressor as the low pressure switch will turn it off. AC is not easy to diagnose without all the right equipment. It is very much worth $20-$40 that a shop charges to do an AC check. Unfortunately adding refrigerant is not always needed and in some situations can make the problem worse.
Hi, unfortunately I have no way of determining the correct belt size that you need. The only method i have really had any success with when doing custom belt work, is trial and error. Perhaps you can find a local auto-parts shop that will be kind enough to let you try a handful of belts and buy the one that fits.
The orifice tube restricts the volume of liquid refrigerant going to the evaporator. This allows for a pressure drop inside the evaporator which then allows the liquid refrigerant to boil and evaporate within the evaporator. When this happen, heat is absorbed and the evaporator gets cold. Without the orifice tube, (or expansion valve in some cars) the system would not work.
I cannot get the quick disconnect tool to pop the spring lock. I honestly spent about 30 minutes twisting and pulling on it just as you show in this video, to no avail.
I'm working on a 2002 Ford Focus, but everything is essentially the same. Is there anything you can tell me that might help?
Ok, First things first, make sure you have evacuated all of the refrigerant out of the system. If the system is still charged, you wont get it off. The quick disconnect tool must get under the little spring that is within the connection on the AC line. You have to push the disconnect tool into the connection to get under the spring, then while pushing the tool in with one hand, use the other hand to pull the line out. It should come right out. The quick disconnect tool should be of good quality. It may be best to pick a connection that is easily visible if possible so you can see closely how it works. Then the harder connections you can do it by feel.
What tools will I need in order to evacuate the system?
Tim Perham An AC machine or a vacuum pump and a storage tank are used to capture the refrigerant and oil in the system. Most DIYer's have a shop evacuate the system before any AC repair, the DIYer will then remove the failed parts and the dryer and orifice tube, flush the system really well, replace all the needed parts, then go back to the shop to have them vacuum it down and then recharge it. It is almost impossible to do an AC repair without those machines. Also you cannot just add refrigerant when you are done, the system must be pulled down to a negative pressure or vacuum before recharging.
Tim Perham - The quick disconnect end that goes into the spring lock fitting must go under the little spring that is within the spring lock connector. Look at it very close before putting the tool on, then make sure you slide the end of that tool underneath the spring, you push in on the tool to get under the spring, then you pull the connection apart and the spring is lifted over the fitting on the hose end.
Auto Parts Direct To You Next video we do we will do a close up of disconnecting the quick disconnect spring lock.,
i was just curious about why dont you flush the entire system at some point, and at what point would it be the best time to do it.
I have a 2000 Ford Focus Zx3 DOHC Zetec 2.0L Engine and I went to the auto parts store and there are two different kinds of AC oil PAG 100 or PAG 150......? I called Atchey Ford and they said they weren't sure..
I have a focus 2002. 1.8 Tddi. Doesnt matter if it is or not on A/C when i press it to blow air on 1,2,3 or 4 it starts and blows for 10 sec. It makes an akward noise somewhere from the right side and it stops. doesn't blow air anymore. I allready refilled the refrigerant liquid. There are no leaks nothing. What can it be. I'm waiting for an answer cause with the winter coming i'm going to freeze and be blind because of the misty windows.
Hi, I have a 2000 ford focus, and everytime I turn on the AC, my car gets slowed. I was told to flush the gas filter.
What can I do?
That would be a very broad answer I could give you as too whats wrong. Is a check engine light on? If so, that is where you want to start. Get the codes pulled if the light is on and research those codes. If not, then many possibilities exist, do you hear any noises when you engage the AC? Does the engine run perfectly with the AC off?
Lol
Great video, brother.
I just put a AC compressor on my daughters car 02 focus ZX5, I vacuumed and leak tested system, did not replace evaporator, I recharged to 1.6 pounds or 26 ounces my machine uses pounds, I equalized hoses and disconnected, when pump kicks on it almost stalls the car so I checked pressure on the high and low sides both are 150 pounds, that's not right the low side shouldn't be that high could it be the Orifice Tube or a defective pump?
The A/C Compressor Pulley on this Focus looks Alot larger than the one I have installed... In fact, I am installing one JUST Like the one you are installing now..
I was able to install it, only problem i am having now is I believe the belt is too short..
I think I ripped the new compressor out of a dohc or Zetec focus same thing only difference is the pulley size..
Do you know what serpintine belt length I should try?... My current belt length is 70.5
So I got a 2002 Ford Focus ZX5 that I need to change my AC Compressor. I bought AC Refrigerant and within a hour it stopped blowing cold air. I went to get it checked out and they told me the Compressor leaks. So they told me it was the AC Compressor. I bought the compressor. I know there's no fluid in there since it leaks it out. I'm wondering if I would have to change all the parts you did or if just the compressor would be ok. Also if it leaks, where would it be more possible that it would leak from?
+Oscar Esqueda If an ac compressor is being replaced, then you must replace the other components or your new compressor may only last a very short time. ALso the system, should be completely flushed to remove particles from the old compressor that you do not want to get into the new compressor as it will fail all over again. Also almost no AC compressor brand will warranty a compressor unless they also see you replaced those parts and did that flush.
I was thinking about trying 77.5 but some diagrams im seeing is saying this belt is used to delete the A/C compressor.....?
do you have to evacuate the system before replacing the compressor?
JOE FORD DIY yes unless it is already empty, also you must vacuum it down after installing new parts
Don't the compressor bolts have to be torqued to a certain amount to ensure that there is no stress on the compressor housing?
Yes, On almost every component of vehicles nowadays a torques spec should be followed from a factory repair manual. Some parts are extremely sensitive like a plastic intake manifold or hub bearing axle nut and then others are not. Now if you see a professional ASE certified auto technician not torquing something, it does not mean he or she is doing it wrong, just like a professional plumber will tighten a toilet bowl gasket down snug, professional mechanics know when to use a torque wrench and when not. On the other hand, I have seen plenty of certified technicians even at dealerships that cause damage to parts from over or under torquing. If you are doing your own repairs which we promote, then we suggest always following the torques specs for the particular part.
The only thing I never had to worry about with torque was the thermostat housing that bolts the radiator hose to the thermostat. I used a self centering gasket so it didn't matter.
our focus ac is running warm air. While car is running and ac is on I watch the compressor to see how its working. the belt is on the pulley and turning. I watch the 3 bolts on the compressor to see how it moves. the wheel will turn for a 2 secs and stop for 15 secs and then it will turn again for another 2 secs. it continues like this while car continues to run. Have any idea what might be wrong?
Great video too
That means your refrigerate is low. You can get a can to refill it at most parts stores or Walmart.
Is it REALLY Necessary to replace the dryer even if I Switched it out as quickly as possible? Meaning putting the a/c lines on first then tightening it down to the bracket?
I have a 2011 Ford Focus SE, and recently every time I turn the heat or AC on it makes a whirring noise. When I checked under the hood, the noise starts as soon as the AC/heater button is pressed, and is coming from that compressor part you replaced. When the AC/Heater is powered on the center cylinder right outside where the belt wraps around does start to spin, but it makes that horrible whirring noise and no cold air. The heater still works though, just not the AC. If I replace the compressor, will I have to replace that other part that was seen at the 11:07 marker? How difficult is this job to do? What would a typical shop charge for both parts and labor for this type of repair?
+Antonio Contreras It sounds like your compressor has failed internally. This would require replacing the compressor, dryer and expansion valve. Also a very thorough system flush should be performed before installing any new parts as the compressor failing internally almost always means you have small pieces of the old compressor now circulated through the entire AC system. Some items you also have to replace the condenser if you cannot get all the pieces out.
As far as a shop charge, this can vary between $600-$1000 depending on the brands of parts used.
Auto Parts Direct To You Thanks for the reply. Yea, you were correct, luckily when I purchased the car, I also purchased a very pricey extended warranty. They ended up replacing the compressor, along with the other parts, and flushing out the system. The whole job was estimated at $2100, but I only paid the deductible of $100. Thank goodness too, because $2100 expense on a new car is way too much.
Goat Boy strikes again
I can still hear the blower motor runing. but no air at all is coming inside the car through the vents.
ID F IT STILL WON"T COME OFF>>>>All good but mine just wouldn't move, even with the spring released. The final solution was to free the pipe from inside the clips in wheel arch, liner removed first, and clamp the solid pipe in the wooden jaws of a Stanley Worbench placed by the car, to gain some purchase without perforating the pipe. Some change in shape was expected by this stage, and achieved! . Not circular any more, but the problem was solved. Eventually the joint started to shift using a lot of circumferential force, alternately back and forth as with a rusted on nut, to start it moving. I have pictures but no idea how to post them here??? Once off I realised the problem is just awful design netalurgically, soft aluminium pipe binding on each other, not corrosion , especially when the new replacement drier jammed half way on. Doh!
So I gave both pipes a severe relieving with wet and dry and steel wool, then a coat of silicon grease and a very quick screw push back on. Still a struggle. These joints are just plain stupid and unnecessary, a rubbish self jamming design that only works well for first assembly on the production ine, and is rubbish by the time it needs servicing. Thanks Ford. Even a simple nylon or PTFE coating on one side of the joint would make it easier to dismantle w/o expesnive colateral damage, instead of near impossible. A nut and O ring is fine everwhere else, why not here?.
i have an 04 svt focus, the ac cuts in and out randomly. i checked and it is getting power when the clutch isn't engaging.
My next step would be checking the negative side of the clutch for a good ground. Maybe after that, checking the gap of the clutch coil (0.35-0.75 mm) and even the resistance of the coil wingdings. If I'm still looking for the problem at this point, then visually inspecting the coil wingdings for discoloring as signs of heat.
And by ac compressor oil, do you mean specifically the recharge refrigerant such as R-134 or actual oil ?
I assume you're talking about 6:58. That would be PAG oil, not R-134.
just a quick question. How difficult it is to change just the manifold hose? Do I need the whole assembly? I have an 03 Focus and I have a leak in the hose assembly just in front of the compressor. What is the actual part that I need to order from your website. Thanks
Hello, unfortunately there is a few different engine options on the 2003 Focus and they have different hoses. If it is a 2.0L DOHC engine then it does have a manifold assembly which is the 2 hoses and has a muffler device built into it. Here is a link below to the hose assembly at Amazon but please make sure to read the vehicle fitment chart and match your exact engine. Also it is not hard to change but you do have to evacuate and recharge the AC system properly (usually best done at a shop) and also the receiver dryer and orifice tube should be replaced if the system is opened.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5C44I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000C5C44I&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=WTMIRUJG4WTPBNTU
What's a good way to know if it's just the a/c clutch or the compressor is bad? It hasn't been getting cold for sometime, the other day it went from making a strange noise to bogging down the engine to almost a stall. When the a/c turned off everything was back to normal. I popped up the hood and noticed when the a/c turned on the clutch was freezing up. Is that just a bad clutch or more of the hole unit. My guess was a bad a/c clutch...
Thanks
+Mike Bullock If the engine almost stalled then the compressor is failing internally and locking up. Also it is very rare to just replace a clutch nowadays as the rest of the compressor is usually also worn and when you put a brand new clutch on a worn compressor, then you end up replacing the compressor shortly there after and it comes with a new clutch. While it seems like you are saving money up front, you end up paying way more with either labor, parts and or refrigerant evacuations and recharges.
+Auto Parts Direct To You good to know, thanks!
I have an 06' Focus which was producing white burning smoke from the belt area. I opened it up and the a/c compressor pulley was not spinning...is this the cause of the from the belt gliding over a stuck pulley or is it not supposed to spin with ac off?
Sean Dosh my 07 focus is doing the same thing and seems to be putting a drag on the motor, going 55mph I'm pulling 3100 rpms. Thinking I'm going to have to replace the A.C. compressor.
Your clutch is not disengaging properly, so when you turn your ac off, the pulley isn't spinning. You need to replace the compressor.
my 04 zx3 makes these noises only while the ac is on but the other day it started making the noise even when the ac is off and my car stalls out when i out it in park is it just this or more
I had same problem check the vacuum hose that comes from the back below area behind the throttle housing mine collapses.
3:10 Peter Griffin laugh Lol
My 2003 ford focus does the same noise.. so does that mean the compressor is bad.. ac only blows hot
If you have excessive noise coming from the compressor, then you most likely need a compressor to start with. Make sure that if you do it yourself that replace the accumulator and the orifice tube, Also be sure to flush the rest of the AC system before installing a new compressor. If the compressor is failing from the inside out, then internal pieces can circulate into other AC components and then eventually go into the new compressor and thus kill the new compressor all over again.
what is the model of compressor and how assambler? pleaees
What type of oil is it pre loaded with and how much? And where would I insert the oil into myself
+Oliver Morrell Oil type is Pag Oil, there should be a sticker under the hood that states how much oil the system takes. Our compressors come with oil and require no extra oil added
my air is great why cant I just replace the clutch ?
+Taco Bob yes, this vehicle does have a serviceable clutch coil.
+Auto Parts Direct To You Thank you so much you save me Big Bucks showing us how to fix your own car. It is fun doing well most of the time lol.
I have power to the Ac clutch but it doesn't engage.
+jasonyes69 power and ground? If you have power and ground, then the issue is in the clutch coil. Other than an open circuit in the coil, there is a spec on the air gap of the clutch. 2.4L engines 0.012-0.020 and 3.0L engine 0.016-0.024
What does the Orifice tube do?
I did not see u change orfus tube
What kind of vehicle is it?
2000 Ford Focus, unfortunately we don't know if it was SOHC or DOHC as this was so long ago
look at the wheel on your right it has a dent in it
Where is the orifice?
so, what is dat??? 19:41
+betto garciia Its the Orifice Tube, as described at 18:46
Cut about 5 inches off the handle end of a serp belt wrench and get the tensioner from the top of the vehicle. Effortless.