Simple, clear and well made video where you talk only when needed, fantastic, well done sir. P. S nice camera work, how do you video you rear wheel when riding? 😂😂😂
Hey Chris I have a weeping fork seal on my R1150R, have you ever done a video about installing new ones? also need to change the brake and clutch fluids also wondering if you have covered those? I've looked over your catalog of videos but missed it if you have already covered those, If not thanks in advance if you would ever go over those. PS, glad to see your rolling!
Chris, Fork Seals: th-cam.com/video/tAQ4KdEZpxs/w-d-xo.html But, before you change them try this. Lift the dust wiper up and you might be successful in cleaning the seal below it with a squirt of brake cleaner and some compressed air. Other topics will come in the future. Good Luck, Chris
Thank you Chris for another great video. Do you know if it's possible to fit that auxiliary headlamps on my 1998 R 1100RT? Because of the big fairing. Greetings from Portugal!
I have always appreciated your videos and knowledge, Chris. Can you direct me to one of your videos that might address a rough running, at speeds after 2nd gear, of a 2000 BMW R1100R, which I recently purchased? The previous owner denies any such issue existing before the sale. Thank you for sharing your time and knowledge.
I have a 2000 R1100R that ran like shit, it was way too lean. It would accelerate normally, easing up, but when it got to the sustained speed, it trailer hitched something awful I "cured" it by disconnecting the oxygen sensor and adjusting the throttle position sensor to make it think I was giving it more throttle. This made for a good ride, but it ate too much fuel. I have money so I just bought more fuel. Eventually I got a tuner and a free flowing exhaust and ditched that heavy monstrosity of an exhaust system. The Tuner was TFI, you dial it in yourself, it has four pots that you adjust with a small screwdriver. Another thing that's important is throttle body balance, you can make a simple loop manometer and see on youtube how it's done. And while you're at it, adjust the valve clearance. I'd do the last two things I mentioned first, throttle body balance and valve adjustment. The header and tuner brought my bike alive, I'd guess 20 more hp. It fucking flies now.
I think having the mileage outside of the bike prominently displayed as to the last oil change would probably be better, Or both. I did enjoy the video
Hello Bill, The mileage be there for me, the lowly a-hole technician. It's easy enough to drop a mirror on the floor and see the mileage of the last oil change while your looking at the oil sight window to inspect your oil level. Chris
I enjoy watching your oilhead videos even though I don't own one. My 89 R100RT airhead has an oil cooler though. Do the airhead oil coolers exhibit the same tendency to drain if parked when hot? If so, should the oil level be checked when the cooler is empty or full? I have never seen a discussion about this in airhead videos or on airhead forums.
ปีที่แล้ว
r1100r with spoked rims??? Original or from r1100gs?
1100 CC is already more than enough power for any freeway. A 6th gear transmission is also unnecessary. It just means more shifting. I don't like fairing on my bike. Fairing makes repairs more work and its crazy expensive if you need to replace it. I believe on the later models BMW went with wider wheels. Wider wheels have less agility. Cross wire spoke wheels are the best, but hard to find unless you get a GS.
mjarre; great question, thank you. Piston rings of ridiculously hard compound stuffed into Nikasil coated cylinder bores makes for a slippery situation. 1994 - 2004 Oilhead engines required 25,000 miles of hard running to break-in properly using conventional oil. When synthetic was used before the engine completely broken in, break-in was never achieved, the engine becomes an oil consuming pig and the only remedy is to re-ring and break in properly.
I began, that way, oh so long ago. However, pre-filling the filter requires you dump unfiltered oil into the new oil filter. The few moments that it takes for pressurized oil to fill the filter and reach all of the critical components is nowhere near long enough for the oil film to be depleted from these surfaces. All that start up clatter is the left cam chain tensioner and there's nothing you can do about that. Advocates and detractors from both sides. I do it this way to minimize mess and speed the process along. Time spent fucking around at the lift is time not spent in the saddle. More soon, Chris
Have R1150r 2004 in my country have mineral oil 15-40 or 20-60, 15-50 is sintetic or synthetic based, ist warm outsaide, i has been in the Greeck last week put 2300km on two day on road, its great machine, its elefant, support tu you, wich oil is beter 15-40 or 20-60
Thanks, i drive for 35 years motorcycle i take a care for each, cold weather is in winter, in other bikes i put 15-40 mineral for all season, i think is 60w ok for samer bat for winter is heavy, how meni km is need to break it, for 15-40 break it after 3500-4000km in hot condition in 4 cilinders, i have GS550e 79 for 14 years, all myself working in every bikes, it's my hoby and my love, i spiking with my bikes, sorry for the time took you
@@milankanazir5852 Applying to R850, R1100, R1150 and R1200C / R1200CL models; Over here in the U.S. BMW specified 20w50 for all temps above freezing. Operation in winter requires 10w40. 10w40 used in summer often is consumed faster than 20w50 would be and oft times 20w50 will not show any oil consumption at all. My Japanese bikes all live on 10w40 year round with no problem but they are not made in Germany.
I ain't naming any names here, but some idiot didn't use a torque wrench. I believe my drain plug hole is stripped. Its holding my oil in for now, but next oil change I need to repair treads on drain plug hole. What is the best method to repair the treads? I was thinking Time Sert or Helicoi.
@@ChrisR.Harris I'm still gathering information on the KeenSert. Keensert M16 doesn't appear on Amazon or eBay. If you know where to buy it, send me a link. It looks like a special tool is required. The Time Sert is Kit p/n 1615C. Unfortunately it cost $240.88. www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Drain-Pan-Part-1615C/dp/B003W649QK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=1615c&qid=1565552982&s=gateway&sr=8-2 LISTEN UP TURKEYS!!! USE A CALIBRATED TORQUE WRENCH!!! I might get the Time Sert kit, use it once than sell it on eBay.
Joe, It would fit but it is not identical in that the S motor has different cylinder heads and many other lightened components to reduce weight and increase the power.
@@ChrisR.Harris Thanks for reply.👍👍👍 I got my 1st BMW bike. Picked up a 2004 R1100S. Hope to put many miles on this R1100S. 😁 Have been riding Japanese bike for over 25 years.
Bas, Yes, Very easy; Ride motorcycle to operating temp. If equipped with the Riders Information Display, ride until 5 bars of oil temp are indicated. Figure on a 20 mile ride regardless (the engine reached 5 bars, right? HOT?!). Then find a nice level spot of hard ground, shut down and leave it alone! Do not restart the engine for a moment, do not crank the engine over, none of that. Park it and wait. Check the oil level on the centerstand 5 minutes later and you'll have your oil level. Beware of being fooled into thinking the level is low when in fact it be high. Have a friend stand on the right side of the bike and lean the machine towards them noticing the oil level come down. Overfilling is very, very bad. Do not do it. BMW moved the oil sight window down in the engine block 5 times during series production to get people to stop over-filling the engine with oil. I will cover this on video soon. Stay tuned, Chris
@@ChrisR.Harris thanks for the tips so i don't have to have it on the side stand for a few minutes before putting the bike on the centre stand that's what their told me again ... thanks and keep up the good work 👍
@@kelt620 No sidestand needed. Here's what happens. Our Oilhead rider returns from a several hour ride and parks next to his house. He goes inside, changes clothes and gets a beer. Comes outside, starts the engine and rides it 10 meters to his garage. He checks the oil later on or the next day and sees that it is low. He does not know that the oil cooler is full of oil right now because when the engine was started last the engine had cooled enough for the oil cooler thermostat to close. Now, this 10 meter ride is not far enough to allow the engine to warm and the thermostat to open therefore it remains closed. The oil level will now appear low because oil is captured in the cooler. Rider makes mistake and adds .25 liter of oil which looks correct in the window but over-fills the engine due to the oil trapped in the cooler. Next time the engine is run to operating temp, shut down and the level checked; the level will be too high. But, don't think this is over just yet! This is the precise time rider adds even more oil because he is unable to see the oil level and suspects that it is too low; when in fact the level is far above the top of the inspection window. Another 0.25 added and the level is not up to the crankshaft. Internal engine pressures rise; the weak crankcase ventilation system unable to handle the higher oil level. Rider puts a few miles on, checks the level again and, sometimes, pours even more oil into the left cover. Use a new oil filter, put in precisely 3.75 liters (exactly 4 quarts) of oil during oil changes. Always check your oil before a ride but this can be done a few minutes after shut-down as well. Checking it when hot (5 bars on the RID) will guarantee that you've seen the level while the thermostat is open. Checking before the ride is acceptable as well if you know that the engine has not been run since being shut down HOT. I hope that helps, Chris
![BMW R1100 замена масла и фильтров [Мото Туториал #6]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Wz1hw-77hWU/mqdefault.jpg)
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Many was the time I went out to warm the bike up for an oil change and came back hundreds of miles later, just to do an oil change another day.
:)
Clear and concise instructions. Impossible to fcuk up you'd imagine but some do. Great job as usual Chris.
There will be a far more detailed one of this topic in the future. Thanks for watching.
Hi. Great video. I wonder if it is possible to remove the oil filter without that special tool? :) Thanks a lot.
Very useful.
Thank you for the sharing 😊
Simple, clear and well made video where you talk only when needed, fantastic, well done sir.
P. S nice camera work, how do you video you rear wheel when riding? 😂😂😂
Gotta service my R80RT. Just did over 5,000 miles, Boston to Glacier National Park and back!
Congratulations on a good ride!
Hey!! That is MY Red R1100R in the background! lol
Love my 1100R. Such a laid back yet capable machine. Its 850R stablemate is just not as enjoyable in mixed riding. Happy Christmas Chris and family 👍🏻
Thank you, John; best wishes to you as well, Chris
Спасибо!
Hi Chris;
Why do BMW motorcycles use regular oil vs. Syn oil? Just curious as to why? Thanks Rick.
Brilliant and concise.
Danke
Hey Chris I have a weeping fork seal on my R1150R, have you ever done a video about installing new ones? also need to change the brake and clutch fluids also wondering if you have covered those? I've looked over your catalog of videos but missed it if you have already covered those, If not thanks in advance if you would ever go over those. PS, glad to see your rolling!
Chris, Fork Seals: th-cam.com/video/tAQ4KdEZpxs/w-d-xo.html
But, before you change them try this. Lift the dust wiper up and you might be successful in cleaning the seal below it with a squirt of brake cleaner and some compressed air. Other topics will come in the future. Good Luck, Chris
Thank you Chris for another great video. Do you know if it's possible to fit that auxiliary headlamps on my 1998 R 1100RT? Because of the big fairing. Greetings from Portugal!
Where can I get one of those special BMW combination roasting/drain pans?
I think I've got the only one left. US made 1970's aluminium.
Other one as all oke
Plastiek bidon from 5l is oke
I have always appreciated your videos and knowledge, Chris. Can you direct me to one of your videos that might address a rough running, at speeds after 2nd gear, of a 2000 BMW R1100R, which I recently purchased? The previous owner denies any such issue existing before the sale. Thank you for sharing your time and knowledge.
I have a 2000 R1100R that ran like shit, it was way too lean. It would accelerate normally, easing up, but when it got to the sustained speed, it trailer hitched something awful I "cured" it by disconnecting the oxygen sensor and adjusting the throttle position sensor to make it think I was giving it more throttle. This made for a good ride, but it ate too much fuel. I have money so I just bought more fuel. Eventually I got a tuner and a free flowing exhaust and ditched that heavy monstrosity of an exhaust system. The Tuner was TFI, you dial it in yourself, it has four pots that you adjust with a small screwdriver. Another thing that's important is throttle body balance, you can make a simple loop manometer and see on youtube how it's done. And while you're at it, adjust the valve clearance. I'd do the last two things I mentioned first, throttle body balance and valve adjustment.
The header and tuner brought my bike alive, I'd guess 20 more hp. It fucking flies now.
I think having the mileage outside of the bike prominently displayed as to the last oil change would probably be better, Or both. I did enjoy the video
Hello Bill, The mileage be there for me, the lowly a-hole technician. It's easy enough to drop a mirror on the floor and see the mileage of the last oil change while your looking at the oil sight window to inspect your oil level. Chris
Thanks. I have the r850r, great bike. 👍
Indeed they are!
I enjoy watching your oilhead videos even though I don't own one. My 89 R100RT airhead has an oil cooler though. Do the airhead oil coolers exhibit the same tendency to drain if parked when hot? If so, should the oil level be checked when the cooler is empty or full? I have never seen a discussion about this in airhead videos or on airhead forums.
r1100r with spoked rims??? Original or from r1100gs?
Good job! As always!
Thanks, Kovee GS!
Nice like allways 👍🏻🇸🇪
What is the oil filter wrench size?
Thanks
Great video Chris good on you - what do you think of the r1200rt? 2007
Joseph; There are better machines out there for much less money and a lot less grief. I wish you luck, Chris
1100 CC is already more than enough power for any freeway. A 6th gear transmission is also unnecessary. It just means more shifting. I don't like fairing on my bike. Fairing makes repairs more work and its crazy expensive if you need to replace it. I believe on the later models BMW went with wider wheels. Wider wheels have less agility. Cross wire spoke wheels are the best, but hard to find unless you get a GS.
Chris Harris
Don’t tell me that best bike I’ve ever owned
@@josephkalayzich3622 You got a good one; that's great! I wish you continued luck.
Are the steps the same for an R1100GS?
Why specifically non-synthetic? Castrol specify their usual synthetic 4T... Purely a cost driver?
Synthetic oil has the habit of bypassing oil seals.
mjarre; great question, thank you. Piston rings of ridiculously hard compound stuffed into Nikasil coated cylinder bores makes for a slippery situation. 1994 - 2004 Oilhead engines required 25,000 miles of hard running to break-in properly using conventional oil. When synthetic was used before the engine completely broken in, break-in was never achieved, the engine becomes an oil consuming pig and the only remedy is to re-ring and break in properly.
@@allantottman189 That too.
Making it look easy getting the bike on the lift you are. (Yoda speak)
Thanks. It is easy. I'll cover that later too.
Am I the only one who prefills an oil filter before installation? I hate to pump air through the oil system, get those bearings lubricated asap.
I began, that way, oh so long ago. However, pre-filling the filter requires you dump unfiltered oil into the new oil filter. The few moments that it takes for pressurized oil to fill the filter and reach all of the critical components is nowhere near long enough for the oil film to be depleted from these surfaces. All that start up clatter is the left cam chain tensioner and there's nothing you can do about that. Advocates and detractors from both sides. I do it this way to minimize mess and speed the process along. Time spent fucking around at the lift is time not spent in the saddle. More soon, Chris
Like. It’s good to watch someone else’s work))))
It is.
Have R1150r 2004 in my country have mineral oil 15-40 or 20-60, 15-50 is sintetic or synthetic based, ist warm outsaide, i has been in the Greeck last week put 2300km on two day on road, its great machine, its elefant, support tu you, wich oil is beter 15-40 or 20-60
milan; mineral 20w50 (20-60, in your case) except for operation in frozen temps when the lighter grade would be appropriate. Take care, Chris
Thanks, i drive for 35 years motorcycle i take a care for each, cold weather is in winter, in other bikes i put 15-40 mineral for all season, i think is 60w ok for samer bat for winter is heavy, how meni km is need to break it, for 15-40 break it after 3500-4000km in hot condition in 4 cilinders, i have GS550e 79 for 14 years, all myself working in every bikes, it's my hoby and my love, i spiking with my bikes, sorry for the time took you
@@milankanazir5852 Applying to R850, R1100, R1150 and R1200C / R1200CL models; Over here in the U.S. BMW specified 20w50 for all temps above freezing. Operation in winter requires 10w40. 10w40 used in summer often is consumed faster than 20w50 would be and oft times 20w50 will not show any oil consumption at all. My Japanese bikes all live on 10w40 year round with no problem but they are not made in Germany.
I ain't naming any names here, but some idiot didn't use a torque wrench. I believe my drain plug hole is stripped. Its holding my oil in for now, but next oil change I need to repair treads on drain plug hole. What is the best method to repair the treads? I was thinking Time Sert or Helicoi.
Keen-Sert would likely be best. Good luck,
@@ChrisR.Harris I'm still gathering information on the KeenSert. Keensert M16 doesn't appear on Amazon or eBay. If you know where to buy it, send me a link. It looks like a special tool is required.
The Time Sert is Kit p/n 1615C. Unfortunately it cost $240.88.
www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Drain-Pan-Part-1615C/dp/B003W649QK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=1615c&qid=1565552982&s=gateway&sr=8-2
LISTEN UP TURKEYS!!! USE A CALIBRATED TORQUE WRENCH!!!
I might get the Time Sert kit, use it once than sell it on eBay.
@@ChrisR.Harris I found a M16 Time Sert kit on eBay for half price. If you need to borrow it, let me know before I put it back on eBay after I use it.
Update: I bought the M16 Time Sert kit, but didn't use it. The treads were good and held the specified torque. I will be selling kit on eBay.
Is the R1100R motor the same the R1100S?
Thanks
Joe, It would fit but it is not identical in that the S motor has different cylinder heads and many other lightened components to reduce weight and increase the power.
@@ChrisR.Harris
Thanks for reply.👍👍👍
I got my 1st BMW bike.
Picked up a 2004 R1100S.
Hope to put many miles on this R1100S. 😁
Have been riding Japanese bike for over 25 years.
Chris
can you tell what the richt method is to check oil level
for a 1150 gs
thanks
thanks
Bas, Yes, Very easy; Ride motorcycle to operating temp. If equipped with the Riders Information Display, ride until 5 bars of oil temp are indicated. Figure on a 20 mile ride regardless (the engine reached 5 bars, right? HOT?!). Then find a nice level spot of hard ground, shut down and leave it alone! Do not restart the engine for a moment, do not crank the engine over, none of that. Park it and wait. Check the oil level on the centerstand 5 minutes later and you'll have your oil level.
Beware of being fooled into thinking the level is low when in fact it be high. Have a friend stand on the right side of the bike and lean the machine towards them noticing the oil level come down. Overfilling is very, very bad. Do not do it. BMW moved the oil sight window down in the engine block 5 times during series production to get people to stop over-filling the engine with oil. I will cover this on video soon. Stay tuned, Chris
@@ChrisR.Harris thanks for the tips
so i don't have to have it on the side stand for a few minutes before putting the bike on the centre stand
that's what their told me
again ... thanks and keep up the good work 👍
@@kelt620 No sidestand needed. Here's what happens. Our Oilhead rider returns from a several hour ride and parks next to his house. He goes inside, changes clothes and gets a beer. Comes outside, starts the engine and rides it 10 meters to his garage. He checks the oil later on or the next day and sees that it is low. He does not know that the oil cooler is full of oil right now because when the engine was started last the engine had cooled enough for the oil cooler thermostat to close. Now, this 10 meter ride is not far enough to allow the engine to warm and the thermostat to open therefore it remains closed. The oil level will now appear low because oil is captured in the cooler. Rider makes mistake and adds .25 liter of oil which looks correct in the window but over-fills the engine due to the oil trapped in the cooler. Next time the engine is run to operating temp, shut down and the level checked; the level will be too high.
But, don't think this is over just yet! This is the precise time rider adds even more oil because he is unable to see the oil level and suspects that it is too low; when in fact the level is far above the top of the inspection window. Another 0.25 added and the level is not up to the crankshaft. Internal engine pressures rise; the weak crankcase ventilation system unable to handle the higher oil level. Rider puts a few miles on, checks the level again and, sometimes, pours even more oil into the left cover.
Use a new oil filter, put in precisely 3.75 liters (exactly 4 quarts) of oil during oil changes. Always check your oil before a ride but this can be done a few minutes after shut-down as well. Checking it when hot (5 bars on the RID) will guarantee that you've seen the level while the thermostat is open. Checking before the ride is acceptable as well if you know that the engine has not been run since being shut down HOT. I hope that helps, Chris
@@ChrisR.Harris thanks for the comprehensive answer it makes a lot clear
@@kelt620 You are quite welcome, Bas. Take care, Chris
Hi Chris re-vid black gloves blurr-out some close up stuff... perhaps try blue or white we will see things much better.
Good to know, Malcolm, thanks. I'm using what I've got, right now. Duly noted, however. ;)
why at just 800 miles?