I am glad to see you still posting videos. As for your conundrum/conflict I am 44 now. It's all about having fun. Neither of us were alive back in the hotrodding hey days but we saw our parents and grandparents building streetrods when they came from hotrodding roots. They built Street rods because they were more drivable. God only knows why they monocromed everything and painted in pastels but they built nice cars regardless of my personal tastes and many of them drove 1000s of miles to car shows like the street rod nationals. The reality is a street rod is a car you want to drive and a Hotrod was built on the cheap to go fast by mainly younger guys that could not afford a new sports car. A street rod captures the feel of a Hotrod in speed and style but has refinement and drivability built in to it that will preform similar to a new car but look way cooler. My Model A pickup I call it a Hotrod but the reality is it's a streetrod with some traditional Hotrod style. Disc brakes, dual reservoir master cylinders, 5 speed trans's or automatics with overdrive make the car more drivable. I like paint, upholstery and stereos and if I can figure out a way to hide it a heater would be good too lol. The key for me is keeping a basic look. For me it's 1960, but I am realistic I don't live in 1960 so there are new and old bits bias ply wide whites were/are a must as is a small block Chevy that looks like it came from a 1960 Impala (4 barrel, stock valve covers, intake with the oil fill, a road draft tube and a generator) as will all be seen but it also will have a pertronix electronic ignition because although I like the simplicity of points I don't like getting them dialed in just to have to do it again in a few weeks. Then there is the stuff that I am doing that isn't so 1960 but you cant see them without looking like the 1987 Plymouth voyager mini van seat (it fits a model A so well and it was 20 bucks at the junkyard, it gives you a little more room every which direction, The 1965 mustang gas tank (it fits perfectly in the bed between the rear axle and tailgate), the GPS Stewart Warner speedo because why mess with inaccurate speeds and the disc brakes, all of that won't really be seen but it makes the car so much more driver friendly. The Four-barrel carburetor is because I get angry at tuning multiple carburetors but hidden under a vette style air cleaner it will be fine. Disc brakes will be hidden underneath fenders on a car that is so low I wonder if I'm really making it drivable lol Twenty-year-old me would have scoffed at what I am doing but 20yo me also didn't have a Hotrod because he was stupid and wanted a traditional car with virtually no money or fabrication skills or connections to get the parts so he drove 1960 Rambler and a 73 Lincoln as his fun cars. (I still have the Lincoln, I probably look on it today just like I did 20 years ago because I have a pompadour in the Disco era car lol). In hindsight I should have been like everybody else in my generation and built a dam rat rod because in that age group it would have got me into a fun Hotrod but I wanted a really nice car that screamed authenticity of 1955 vut I was on a PBR beer budget. Anyways my point is after my long rambling we are no longer kids and even twenty-five years ago those parts were getting scarce as they were 40-50 years old if not older and the cars were 70ish years old. Today the parts are 70+ and the cars are 90ish years old and there is more people building cars all over the world where when the hobby was in it's infancy it was a had full of younger men around the nation. My model A pickup is clean considering it has been off the road since 1958 but the reality is it's a rusty POS in 1960 it would have only looked like it does after a fire in the rust belt and I have spent probably 300 hours so far straightening damage and rust repair and it is no where near show quality or even ready for some shiny paint. I have been hitting every swap meet here in Southern California for the last 3 years I have came to the realization that there are a lot of parts that have to be bought new such as suspension bits and a slew of reproduction Model A parts because we don't live in 1960. Your tri power set-up will fool all but the diehard gearhead and if he has built his own car he won't criticize you for using it... 20 year old you and I may talk sh-- but what were/are they driving if you know what I mean and did they build it or did they buy it? The only thing I wish I could do let's go back and kick twenty-year-old me into gear and build the dodge brothers touring into a rattyass Hotrod and then drive the wheels off it instead of hoping an A roadster would appear for practically nothing.
Back in 1966 I had a 64 GTO. It had a 4bbl carb,4 speed and posi. I got stopped by several guys running tri-power carbs who were looking to trade for my setup. Currently I’m building a 318 for my 30 Plymouth 4dr. Thinking about the COOL 😎 factor of tri-power. Having a hard time finding one.
The Speedway carb flow a little more air. And they are new. How good they are I do not know. Only experience is a late flathead with 3 and it seems to run fairly well. They flow around 150cfm each For a Chev?? IF you must have 3x2bbl use more modern 2bbl GM carbs. As was the deal in maybe the 60s. They flow around 200cfm per carb. If you want simple performance use a Q jet on factory intake. Or a Holley. For near stock engines you will not beat the Q jet,, a Performer/ RPM intake will be a little better, and be alloy. And whatever out perform those prehistoric Strombergs!
Agreed! I have a Qjet on 350 in a 32 pick up, and man it works great. Can’t beat the high idle warm up! I used to hate Qjets but once you mess with them and get a good one working they are a great carb.
@@raniermorneau4423 A Holley carburetor with an electric choke will also work perfectly fine before reaching full operating temperature when adjusted correctly. The fast idle speed adjusting screw is a bit hard to get to if you're not familiar with it when the carb is installed on the vehicle. Usually, the best way to adjust it is with a 1/4 wrench with the carburetor pinned or held wide open. It will take a couple/few mornings of cold starts to get it adjusted exactly how you want it and then work perfectly for many years thereafter.
i got'em from maund about 20 years ago lol. looks like the one man shop is still in business shoot him an email and get yourself some. canyonracer.net/hot_rod_parts.html www.maundspeed.com/
But How do they work?? That’s why I came to your vid! Haha! I have 6 Holley 94’s on a 364 nailhead. And they drive me bonkers, they leak, work great, then the car sits 3 months and I have to rebuild the carbs, then the leak, the cycle goes on and on! I was thinkin on buying a set if 6 of these super 97’s but I heard they don’t work well. Who knows! Post an update!
tbd... stay tuned... the build is is still in progress and we will be putting them on a 283... itll be a little too much cab...but not as bad as six 94's on a 364 lol but hey when yours are working great how does it run? curious about the six carb set up did you block off the power valves and idle circuits in any of those 94s to make it work? also... seems like nothing will solve the carb sitting issues... I just got super lucky on my 54 that it fired up after 9 months
I’m running just the center 2 carbs, I should have included that in my orig post! Just haven’t had the time to set up all 6. My advice for any multi carb set up is to run the vintage speed base kits!! They are worth every penny!! That was always my plan with the 6x2’s run the center 2 carbs as idlers, with the primary vintage speed base kits, then the outer 4 progressive, with the secondary vintage speed base kits. I got this set up from a good friend who spent a lot of time getting the center carbs to work good on his 401 nailhead, so I just put the set up on my motor and set the idle circuits. When it works, it runs great! Really smooth with a surprisingly good amount of power and pull from a stop, I have a 4 speed manual trans in the car too which also helps with that. Once you build a 3 pedal hot rod you will never go back to an automatic! It’s too much fun shiftin gears! Looks like you have a ton of vids, I’ll be subscribing! Thanks for the Reply! I’ll keep my eyes peeled for a follow up vid, I hope you get a chance to run those carbs, and tell us lerkers how they work out! Also o clarify speedway copied the vintage speed bases, so having the new super 97’s is like having a brand new stromberg 97 with a vintage speed base, and yes I would run the vintage speed base even on a brand new 500.00 dollar plus stromberg! 😅
Oh! You asked if I blocked off the power valves, no didn’t, I am running the power valves on my primary carbs. I would run them on secondary carbs also. But the advantage to stromberg 97’s or the super 97’s is they don’t have power valves like the Holley 94’s do!!
In my opinion its a bit late to figure out you bought an imposter. However a Edelbrock on a 283 chevy is an imposter as chevy built tripower set ups also. Then you have a chevy in a ford which is an imposter. I am working on a Model A which will have a Flathead which is an imposter of the 1st sort as Model A's weren't born with a flathead. I guess I'm saying Hot Rodding or Modifying a vehicle to improve it, is all about turning it into an imposter, I'm not sure if how far your willing to go is terribly important. Nice video and enjoy the journey!
thanks dude.. i see you get it... there is a lot to contemplate when you follow in footsteps on a path you think is cool.. and why its cool... and ya know .. when do deviate. i feel like its worthwhile to know the history and build the confidence to do whats best for you...even if you are building something thats inherently kinda showy
For 3x2’s on a SBC you can’t beat Rochester 2g carbs! Buy the vintage speed (charlie price) bases and linkage and they work great! I’ve had good luck with them, I’ve ran those on 3 diff cars with progressive linkage.
1981 I bought a 1956 354 Hemi the real hemi not the New Canted valve so called Hemi. I got 4. 97s and a Wieand intake. Took the 97s to Ford parts obsolete in long beach and the Gentleman reached under the counter and pulled up 4 rebuilt 97s and SAID $12.50 each exchange rebuilt. I ran the 97s for a while pulled them off put a 750 spread bore Holly on it and that was the end of it . Yes the 354 would Fly push Button and all .
what a great story, i mean even if you take in what a dollars worth now it feels like you got a rebuilt for the price of a modern kit... but more importantly there was a place, with parts, with a guy... and he knew stuff. I remember when I started doing this stuff around 2000 there was still a guy in atlanta named mr fisher and he had a carburetor shop in the city and he would anodize our stromberg and 94 parts and sell kits... he was easily in his 70's. He is gone and his old shop building is a trendy restaurant surrounded by high rise condos... i didn't think at the time i was kinda the last of a generation... but my maybe i was... i took it for granted back then i guess... i don t know where i would send someone today to have the same stuff done
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I am glad to see you still posting videos.
As for your conundrum/conflict
I am 44 now. It's all about having fun.
Neither of us were alive back in the hotrodding hey days but we saw our parents and grandparents building streetrods when they came from hotrodding roots. They built Street rods because they were more drivable.
God only knows why they monocromed everything and painted in pastels but they built nice cars regardless of my personal tastes and many of them drove 1000s of miles to car shows like the street rod nationals.
The reality is a street rod is a car you want to drive and a Hotrod was built on the cheap to go fast by mainly younger guys that could not afford a new sports car. A street rod captures the feel of a Hotrod in speed and style but has refinement and drivability built in to it that will preform similar to a new car but look way cooler.
My Model A pickup I call it a Hotrod but the reality is it's a streetrod with some traditional Hotrod style.
Disc brakes, dual reservoir master cylinders, 5 speed trans's or automatics with overdrive make the car more drivable.
I like paint, upholstery and stereos and if I can figure out a way to hide it a heater would be good too lol.
The key for me is keeping a basic look.
For me it's 1960, but I am realistic I don't live in 1960 so there are new and old bits bias ply wide whites were/are a must as is a small block Chevy that looks like it came from a 1960 Impala (4 barrel, stock valve covers, intake with the oil fill, a road draft tube and a generator) as will all be seen but it also will have a pertronix electronic ignition because although I like the simplicity of points I don't like getting them dialed in just to have to do it again in a few weeks.
Then there is the stuff that I am doing that isn't so 1960 but you cant see them without looking like the 1987 Plymouth voyager mini van seat (it fits a model A so well and it was 20 bucks at the junkyard, it gives you a little more room every which direction, The 1965 mustang gas tank (it fits perfectly in the bed between the rear axle and tailgate), the GPS Stewart Warner speedo because why mess with inaccurate speeds and the disc brakes, all of that won't really be seen but it makes the car so much more driver friendly.
The Four-barrel carburetor is because I get angry at tuning multiple carburetors but hidden under a vette style air cleaner it will be fine. Disc brakes will be hidden underneath fenders on a car that is so low I wonder if I'm really making it drivable lol
Twenty-year-old me would have scoffed at what I am doing but 20yo me also didn't have a Hotrod because he was stupid and wanted a traditional car with virtually no money or fabrication skills or connections to get the parts so he drove 1960 Rambler and a 73 Lincoln as his fun cars. (I still have the Lincoln, I probably look on it today just like I did 20 years ago because I have a pompadour in the Disco era car lol). In hindsight I should have been like everybody else in my generation and built a dam rat rod because in that age group it would have got me into a fun Hotrod but I wanted a really nice car that screamed authenticity of 1955 vut I was on a PBR beer budget.
Anyways my point is after my long rambling we are no longer kids and even twenty-five years ago those parts were getting scarce as they were 40-50 years old if not older and the cars were 70ish years old. Today the parts are 70+ and the cars are 90ish years old and there is more people building cars all over the world where when the hobby was in it's infancy it was a had full of younger men around the nation.
My model A pickup is clean considering it has been off the road since 1958 but the reality is it's a rusty POS in 1960 it would have only looked like it does after a fire in the rust belt and I have spent probably 300 hours so far straightening damage and rust repair and it is no where near show quality or even ready for some shiny paint. I have been hitting every swap meet here in Southern California for the last 3 years I have came to the realization that there are a lot of parts that have to be bought new such as suspension bits and a slew of reproduction Model A parts because we don't live in 1960. Your tri power set-up will fool all but the diehard gearhead and if he has built his own car he won't criticize you for using it... 20 year old you and I may talk sh-- but what were/are they driving if you know what I mean and did they build it or did they buy it?
The only thing I wish I could do let's go back and kick twenty-year-old me into gear and build the dodge brothers touring into a rattyass Hotrod and then drive the wheels off it instead of hoping an A roadster would appear for practically nothing.
Back in 1966 I had a 64 GTO. It had a 4bbl carb,4 speed and posi. I got stopped by several guys running tri-power carbs who were looking to trade for my setup. Currently I’m building a 318 for my 30 Plymouth 4dr. Thinking about the COOL 😎 factor of tri-power. Having a hard time finding one.
Great thoughts on rodding.
The Speedway carb flow a little more air. And they are new. How good they are I do not know. Only experience is a late flathead with 3 and it seems to run fairly well. They flow around 150cfm each
For a Chev?? IF you must have 3x2bbl use more modern 2bbl GM carbs. As was the deal in maybe the 60s. They flow around 200cfm per carb.
If you want simple performance use a Q jet on factory intake. Or a Holley. For near stock engines you will not beat the Q jet,, a Performer/ RPM intake will be a little better, and be alloy. And whatever out perform those prehistoric Strombergs!
Agreed! I have a Qjet on 350 in a 32 pick up, and man it works great. Can’t beat the high idle warm up! I used to hate Qjets but once you mess with them and get a good one working they are a great carb.
@@raniermorneau4423 A Holley carburetor with an electric choke will also work perfectly fine before reaching full operating temperature when adjusted correctly. The fast idle speed adjusting screw is a bit hard to get to if you're not familiar with it when the carb is installed on the vehicle. Usually, the best way to adjust it is with a 1/4 wrench with the carburetor pinned or held wide open. It will take a couple/few mornings of cold starts to get it adjusted exactly how you want it and then work perfectly for many years thereafter.
Awesome video buddy
Those Maund stacks are amazing looking. Where did you find them?
i got'em from maund about 20 years ago lol. looks like the one man shop is still in business shoot him an email and get yourself some. canyonracer.net/hot_rod_parts.html www.maundspeed.com/
But How do they work?? That’s why I came to your vid! Haha! I have 6 Holley 94’s on a 364 nailhead. And they drive me bonkers, they leak, work great, then the car sits 3 months and I have to rebuild the carbs, then the leak, the cycle goes on and on! I was thinkin on buying a set if 6 of these super 97’s but I heard they don’t work well. Who knows! Post an update!
tbd... stay tuned... the build is is still in progress and we will be putting them on a 283... itll be a little too much cab...but not as bad as six 94's on a 364 lol but hey when yours are working great how does it run?
curious about the six carb set up did you block off the power valves and idle circuits in any of those 94s to make it work? also... seems like nothing will solve the carb sitting issues... I just got super lucky on my 54 that it fired up after 9 months
I’m running just the center 2 carbs, I should have included that in my orig post! Just haven’t had the time to set up all 6. My advice for any multi carb set up is to run the vintage speed base kits!! They are worth every penny!! That was always my plan with the 6x2’s run the center 2 carbs as idlers, with the primary vintage speed base kits, then the outer 4 progressive, with the secondary vintage speed base kits. I got this set up from a good friend who spent a lot of time getting the center carbs to work good on his 401 nailhead, so I just put the set up on my motor and set the idle circuits. When it works, it runs great! Really smooth with a surprisingly good amount of power and pull from a stop, I have a 4 speed manual trans in the car too which also helps with that. Once you build a 3 pedal hot rod you will never go back to an automatic! It’s too much fun shiftin gears! Looks like you have a ton of vids, I’ll be subscribing! Thanks for the Reply! I’ll keep my eyes peeled for a follow up vid, I hope you get a chance to run those carbs, and tell us lerkers how they work out! Also o clarify speedway copied the vintage speed bases, so having the new super 97’s is like having a brand new stromberg 97 with a vintage speed base, and yes I would run the vintage speed base even on a brand new 500.00 dollar plus stromberg! 😅
Oh! You asked if I blocked off the power valves, no didn’t, I am running the power valves on my primary carbs. I would run them on secondary carbs also. But the advantage to stromberg 97’s or the super 97’s is they don’t have power valves like the Holley 94’s do!!
In my opinion its a bit late to figure out you bought an imposter. However a Edelbrock on a 283 chevy is an imposter as chevy built tripower set ups also. Then you have a chevy in a ford which is an imposter. I am working on a Model A which will have a Flathead which is an imposter of the 1st sort as Model A's weren't born with a flathead. I guess I'm saying Hot Rodding or Modifying a vehicle to improve it, is all about turning it into an imposter, I'm not sure if how far your willing to go is terribly important. Nice video and enjoy the journey!
thanks dude.. i see you get it... there is a lot to contemplate when you follow in footsteps on a path you think is cool.. and why its cool... and ya know .. when do deviate. i feel like its worthwhile to know the history and build the confidence to do whats best for you...even if you are building something thats inherently kinda showy
How about putting Rochester carbs back on intake as was intended it should run fine after that
I agree
For 3x2’s on a SBC you can’t beat Rochester 2g carbs! Buy the vintage speed (charlie price) bases and linkage and they work great! I’ve had good luck with them, I’ve ran those on 3 diff cars with progressive linkage.
Well said Ryan
1981 I bought a 1956 354 Hemi the real hemi not the New Canted valve so called Hemi. I got 4. 97s and a Wieand intake. Took the 97s to Ford parts obsolete in long beach and the Gentleman reached under the counter and pulled up 4 rebuilt 97s and SAID $12.50 each exchange rebuilt. I ran the 97s for a while pulled them off put a 750 spread bore Holly on it and that was the end of it . Yes the 354 would Fly push Button and all .
what a great story, i mean even if you take in what a dollars worth now it feels like you got a rebuilt for the price of a modern kit... but more importantly there was a place, with parts, with a guy... and he knew stuff. I remember when I started doing this stuff around 2000 there was still a guy in atlanta named mr fisher and he had a carburetor shop in the city and he would anodize our stromberg and 94 parts and sell kits... he was easily in his 70's. He is gone and his old shop building is a trendy restaurant surrounded by high rise condos... i didn't think at the time i was kinda the last of a generation... but my maybe i was... i took it for granted back then i guess... i don t know where i would send someone today to have the same stuff done
Who cares your putting it on a sb chevy. If you want history put them on a flat head. Run what works best and have fun.