Progress capture devices
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- Here's a list of a few progress capture devices for hauling systems, these are mostly used for crevasse rescue but can also be useful for some rock systems too.
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It’s the Lorenzi hitch (noeud Lorenzi). Works like a garda but you don’t need identical carabiners. You can use lockers like you did in the video.
Thanks for your interesting videos !
Sweet, I'm happy I finally got a name for it!
Ropeman is wild country! Love it and love your videos!
The last hitch seems to be the same as what is called the Kara-Acht here in Germany, which is usually made using one carabiner and a figure 8. That is also what the name comes from. Since nobody really carries figure eights anymore, at least for climbing, the two carabiner version looks more practical. I know of people and rescue teams still using it over here, mainly for canyoning and water rescue, where figure 8 style devices are more common. It is regarded as a very secure and high strength tie-off, often used for tensioning highlines and similar setups. With a figure 8, it is also releasable under load. With just the carabiner, I think you could release it, but you have no friction, so you will lose the load if you don't add anything to the system.
That's pretty interesting I may have to look into that in the future, thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much!! This was exactly what i needed 🙏
As you showed at 5:00, I was taught to use a plate with a prussik on the load side, you can simply pull the belay side and know you're getting progress capture without having to "reset" the prussik or pay attention to it, and you can now focus on more important tasks.
Hey man, greetings from New Zealand. Your videos are extremely valuable to me as I get deeper into climbing. Thanks for the upload!
Thank you Ryan for all your very informative videos.
In germany ist called Stuflesser, but i never see anyone use it.
An issue I see with the garda hitch and the locking munter (besides a lot of friction) is they are quite hard to release. If you've got someone who is getting pulled into a lip of a crevasse or into a rock edge, having the ability to quickly release and slack the system is potentially important I think. A device like the Micro Traxion or Spoc can be released by pulling up slightly and then holding back the cam with a finger to let rope out. And if using a prusik cord, consider using an auto block hitch which can be released under load and I find is "self tending" when used with a carabiner. (Not so good with a pulley as it tends to get sucked in.)
Hey Ryan, nice to see another video from you. What are you up to these days? Guiding?
Ya pretty much, I'm in the hight of alpine guiding season!
Ryan, love your videos and channel! Could you possibly make a video showing how you became an AMGA guide. I’m considering heading down that path and would benefit from your experience in doing that. Thank you Ryan!
Ya I can add that to my video list
Hey Ryan. Really love your content, advise and attitude of learning.
A question: how do you lower from the Lorenzi and locking Munter progress capture hitches? Seems like the follower must be capable of climbing the pitch otherwise you are in for some nasty rope fiddling and possibly a hauling system. Actually kinda jiggling the lower carabiner in the Lorenzi hitch seems to allow for alittle bit of lower, similar to the ATC in guide mode. But still no great option if you need to lower a large distance?
Ya both of these hitched kind of can’t be lowered with after the climber weights the system, that’s why I would recommend them just as a emergency device. I’ve gotten this question a lot so I think I’ll make a video about a possible way to deal with this situation.