As always, great video with god attention to detail. Glad to see you’re posting videos again…it’s been awhile. Double rope/party of three is fun, but rope management has always been tough. Thanks for putting this together.
3:45 - 4:20 I didn’t quite understand the example around why doesn’t the parallel technique isn’t safe for traverses? Specifically, I don’t understand how a climber could rake the other climber if they fall. If I am leading a traverse, wouldn’t I want to place pieces along the traverse so that climbers won’t swing as much? And if I place pieces along a traverse and instruct both followers do a staggered start, and that there should be at least one piece between the first follower and the second follower (on a wandering/traversy pitch), would parallel be as safe as caterpillar?
You got it. Note that I am belaying with a guide style device (the Black Diamond ATC Guide), NOT a brake assited device such as a grigri. Many break assisted devices have cams that can be jammed open when they come into contact with terrain. Terrain does not interfere with the operation of most guide style devices. The time to be wary of letting go of your break strands is if you have several twists in your belay ropes which are preventing the plate from rapidly locking (usually more than two complete twists) or if you have a possibility for one strand to pass underneath the other while it is under tension. Usually this only happens while belaying two people at once where there is a traverse into the belay. You can take a look at this video which I made to specify what to watch-out for in these circumstances: th-cam.com/video/4nr33w3XGOU/w-d-xo.html. I hope this is helpful!
Thanks. Some very good techniques to practice! Winged it yesterday with a party of three and it was a bit of a cluster.
Thanks for the tips. I'm excited to try some of your recommendations.
Thanks for the positive feedback @tylerashcraft6726! Let me know how it goes!
As always, great video with god attention to detail. Glad to see you’re posting videos again…it’s been awhile. Double rope/party of three is fun, but rope management has always been tough. Thanks for putting this together.
Thanks for the support and positive feedback @timmyrogers7507!
3:45 - 4:20 I didn’t quite understand the example around why doesn’t the parallel technique isn’t safe for traverses? Specifically, I don’t understand how a climber could rake the other climber if they fall. If I am leading a traverse, wouldn’t I want to place pieces along the traverse so that climbers won’t swing as much? And if I place pieces along a traverse and instruct both followers do a staggered start, and that there should be at least one piece between the first follower and the second follower (on a wandering/traversy pitch), would parallel be as safe as caterpillar?
Another great video. By the way, what pants are those? Thanks
Nice video but Darth Vader breathing in the background is a bit distracting. Consider getting a mic.
@19:09 it appears that your brake hand is off the client’s rope entirely?
You got it. Note that I am belaying with a guide style device (the Black Diamond ATC Guide), NOT a brake assited device such as a grigri. Many break assisted devices have cams that can be jammed open when they come into contact with terrain. Terrain does not interfere with the operation of most guide style devices. The time to be wary of letting go of your break strands is if you have several twists in your belay ropes which are preventing the plate from rapidly locking (usually more than two complete twists) or if you have a possibility for one strand to pass underneath the other while it is under tension. Usually this only happens while belaying two people at once where there is a traverse into the belay. You can take a look at this video which I made to specify what to watch-out for in these circumstances: th-cam.com/video/4nr33w3XGOU/w-d-xo.html. I hope this is helpful!
What route is that?