Talking point: belaying off of the anchor remake
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2024
- I was having some trouble with my editing software which caused the last few minuets of the video to be cut off, so I re- edited the video and now I have the full explanation of why we don't belay the follower up with this system anymore.
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Thanks as always Ryan! Stoked you are down in Cali. I hope you have a great season. I wondered if you could share your knowledge on retrieving stuck ropes and emergency bail techniques (if you haven't already!) Thank you!
Very good discussion of pros and cons. Understanding the reasons why to do things a specific way helps so much to understand and to improve the own technique. Thanks Ryan - I really appreciate your content!
Another great video!! thanks
I learned mini top-rope style. And that was only in the late 90’s. But it was for sport, and it was because the tube style belay devices didn’t have “guide mode”. So you couldn’t use them direct off the anchor very well. The other reason was for swinging leads, which is also what I learned. (Climbing mostly short, 2-4 pitch routes).
Hey Ryan, I have been watching your videos for years. I have a question. Would you consider making a video on ACCESSING a top rope anchor? There are lots of videos on types of anchors, but no one talks about how you approach the edge of the clif safely. How do i even get to the bolts if they are on the cliff face?
Thank you for all you share.
Ya that's an awesome video topic! I'll add it to the list.
Very nice video and completely agree with how nice it is belaying in guide mode. Also interested in more videos on fix point lead belay
I actually have a lot of videos on the fixed point belay:
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th-cam.com/video/gYMdQoE0Y1M/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/Ju83DJKVirQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/44B6YsXlnBo/w-d-xo.html
@@ryantilley9063 oh sry I mean talking points on belaying leader off the anchor. I saw your videos on using a munter for that, wander if there's any talks on setting up a belay devices, on anchor, for lead belay
Gold
How about being cloved into the anchor, feet braced, then belaying directly off your harness? After watching this video, I cracked open my HOW TO ROCK CLIMB book from 2010 and it describes this as the ABC setup. Anchor-belayer-climber.
Why do you want to do that? There are terrible dumb ok good better and best ways to do things. Why not always aim for the better and best ways when it comes to safety and ease of keeping the most amount of safety in the equation
The big problem with that set up is you need a lot more judgment and thinking to make it work for different situations. The Brits actually use that method as a the go- to for their belay set up so they can be softer on the equipment, but that line of thought doesn't track for the set up when you're sitting on the anchor.
That belay method is still used and useful, mostly in alpine/ short pitching/ snow belaying situations, but it's not as useful in the rock world anymore, and overall makes for a more uncomfortable belay for the climber and belayer also I've seen a lot of misuse or misapplication of that technique which could cause a lot of bad stuff if the climber falls.
I guess it's moved on to a more advance belaying style rather than a beginner belay style now.
I'd like to learn more about pros and cons of belaying off the anchor Master point with a grigri, you didn't really go into that vs the top belay with an atc in guide mode. Very interesting video, one that I needed a few weeks ago, bailed on a multipitch bc the top belay system wasn't feeding smoothly. I aborted the mission and lowered off to discuss the problems with my partner and I think we came up with the climb is such a low angle slab 5.4 perfect harmony edit 38 that belaying in that orientation was harder and then in addition the rope I have has a treatment on it hydrophobic I guess to which slows down the feeding. I just don't like the rope and how it seems sticky...
If I'd been taught to use the grigri to top belay that makes a lot of sense except if the grigri gets trapped against the rock somehow and you get no assistance in braking..
Everything I've learned has been through edgeworks and amga guides so..
@@staleyexplores With single ropes, belaying a second with a grigri is a dream on low angle and traverses compared to guide mode
You're completely right, if the Grigri gets trapped along the rock and that causes the cam to not engage it won't pinch on the rope. You can counteract that with flipping the grigri over so the cam is not on the wall side and facing you. A better option in that situation is just to use the ATC in guide mode if you're worried about the Grigri cam not engaging. I usually teach people just to use the ATC in guide mode at first and have the Grigri as another option. My guess is the other guides you worked with told you to use the Grigri because you have a really fat rope! The main reason to use the Grigri to belay the follower is if you have a really thick rope to save your elbows.
My go- to in every day situations is the ATC in guide mode with a thinner rope (about 9.1-9.4) and that works really well. If I'm using a fatter rope I'll probably go for a Grigri for the easier pull but that's also when it's hanging in space off of the anchor.
I worked at Edgeworks for a couple of years, really great guide service!
@@ryantilley9063 yeah I was never recommended to use the grigri, if anything they said not to and go guide mode!!🤙 My rope is 9.6 edilrid the tommy Caldwell rope. If nothing else I learned a lot in this experience along with your video. Ty Ryan for being such a bad ass!!