Nice build, a tip to avoid consume your Freud bit and do less dust, after clamping the template to the "real mdf side face" cut with a jigsaw close to the template 2mm wider for example, a jigsaw blade is way cheaper and do less dust, after that you use the router, this way the router bit will be cutting 1/4 of wood "face".
Thank you. I saved your plans from the previous version, few years ago. I actually collected everything I needed to make this, the wood, Pi, joysticks, screen, everything but the issue is where I live, no space to house this or build. I am hoping this is the year where I can buy my first home with my husband, and this is something I hope I can build next year. The good thing has been, my tools has grown a lot since your video, been buying tools on sale. But awesome to see your are making these, appreciate the video.
@@MajimeTV hey, finally got my own place with a garage which I am converting to my workshop. I am going to make a tabletop version, maybe then build a stand later.
Awesome Video! I am a high school technology teacher and have a student attempting a much simpler arcade cabinet, but your video has illustrated so many things we haven't thought of yet. It will be very helpful in bringing their project to the finish line. Thank you very much for sharing!
Brilliant video I was gripped from start to finish, the fact that you used what I think of every day DIY tools to make this and showed each step was great. I know I have the DIY skills and knowledge of emulation and wiring to complete a project like this my only problem is space. I found this video very inspirational 😁
Thank you so much for this video. So easy to follow along. I was just able to build my monster using your instructions and it’s the first project I’ve taken on. I wish I could send you a picture
Definitely cut the template out of both pieces with a jig saw leaving about an eighth of an inch for the trim bit to "trim". Never cut material with a router like that (using a bearing guided trim bit). After you route one side, use that side in place of your template. That'll guarantee they are identical. Great build! Love the finished cabinet.
That's crazy you're still making cabinets! I followed your blue prints for the bartop cabinet years ago and it came out soo sick! Hand painted the cabinet too. I appreciate all you do man, keep it up.
57:30 Dupont (black square jumpers) connectors 2.54mm pitch JST SM are for circuit board headers. Old DIP circuit board 1970's electronics thru-hole integrated circuit design of 0.1" spacing. JST XH 2.50mm pitch - 2 Pin & 3 pin are used on the Zero delay boards, come in 2-6 connector plug/socket design. JST make different pitch SM 2.54mm, XH 2.50mm, PH 2.00mm, ZH 1.50mm, GH 1.25mm, SH 1.00mm are some of the pin centre designs.
definitely gave me some ideas. im building a full setup with retro arcade, retro shooter, ps4 and (racing sim) and connected to my pc (it will be right next to it).
58:15 The missing female spade connector is 0.187" used on Suzo-Happ style buttons (micro switch) - white/blue harness, 0.110" are used on Sanwa style buttons (keyboard switch) - white/red harness.
Attach the template to your MDF with a couple screws. If you do it on the inside face you won't see the holes. You could use your router to transfer your holes over to the MDF. Set your router to make a shallow cut and you will have a slot for you cross pieces.
Really nice build.. you've put a really nice efforts on this one. I would like to see you sharing the build cost in terms of the material used and the labour you guys put towards the end of the video or at least in the video description. I want to build a cabinet like this one but for my desktop computer, just to have a retro theme of work place.
At the time I overspent on a lot of it and spent over $1100 on the build back in 2018. I would have done cheaper paint and a different system for the backlighting and fans but due to time constraints I went for what was available quickly. I lost track of how many hours I spent since but could probably build it a lot faster the 2nd time around
Thank you for the amazing video and excellent plans. I have old CRT TV that I would love to use in my home arcade (I tried, and it works with my TV box). However that will make the arcade even deeper and heavier. Great idea with the coasters, that will make thing much easier to lug around. Thanks again and keep it up! (Your website is amazing, btw, I have bookmarked it)
Great video! With the low clearance at the bottom, how are you able to reach beneath the cabinet to lock and unlock the back casters? Are you just tilting the cabinet out every time and having someone reach below to unlock and lock?
Insulation on the electrical connectors isn't to prevent them from touching. It's to keep you from electrocuting yourself if you drop a screw or tool. Either insulate them or put it in a box.
@WeBuildStuff Your final cabinet looked great. I like the hinged door, the fans, and the color combo. My favorite thing though was even as you had barely started you were thinking about "the next one". 🤣🤣🤣 I think that happens to every person who builds one of these.
Really good build and very well explained. The only thing i'm missing, is the measurements for the joystick and buttons, i see you mentioned you created the layout in photoshop, are you able to make this available to us? Thanks
I have more than 25 pcs PCB arcade game originaly Japanese made with JMMA type connection for sale . All are in very good condition and work perfectly, very popular titles.
the only critisizm I have is that the plastic sheet in front of the TV, I would have mounted it flush with the TV it's self. Basically creating an air tight seal between the plastic sheet and the TV screen itself. I feel like not only would this look way better, as the glare of the plastic looks really tacky covering the black cabinet bezel, but it would ensure no dust gets on the TV screen.
of course. that just takes a bit of engineering Build the base separate like this link www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Bartop-Arcade-Stand-Tabletop-Arcade-Machine_1600464379744.html
Great instructional video. I'm trying to get a XU4 set up but having issues with N64 games being super choppy. What image did you use and how did you get the N64 games playable?
@@dadwillmake at the time I used the Recalbox front end and the default emulator it came setup with. I booted upnmy old XU4 again with a fresh install and found the choppy stuff as well especially with audio. Emulators like project 64 on a windows pc work, raspberry pi usually works... wish i had time to figure tge xu4 better. You can change which emulator is used but sometimes it varies on which game is better compatible with a specific emulator. If you find one that is smooth let me know!
great video! I am totally trying this one out! One question though, why do you use mustard instead of glue? Is this some inside joke I didnt get? Also, could you upload the side panel layout with the internal markers as well? that would help me a lot!
Haha you're the first one to say anything. I didn't include it in the video but ten minutes before filming I accidentally touched a hot soldering iron unrelated to the arcade machine. Please keep watching haha
This video is great, and so are the plans (however, as an unskilled woodworker, the angles always confuse me). Do you happen to have a parts/supply list? Also, how many hours would you say this took you? Thanks!
This is an older build but there is a link in the description of some parts I think. For the angles I drew what looked good to me on paper and then in Autocad. Basically drew it on paper and then used a clear protractor to see what the cut angle would be, adjust machine accordingly. I spent a lot of hours on this build and didn't rush anything so what you see is just a sped up version of EVERY building step I did. Painting alone was probably 3 hours (I would love a spray setup!). A lot of the angles are not necessary and you will see a lot of old commercial arcades have gaps on the back where you don't see. You can also used trim to cover gaps. Look at house finishing construction where we cover gaps with molding and filler. Good luck and I hope you start your project!
For the time I rarely got to work a full day on it. I built this over a month an hour at a time. If I didn't have to stop this could be a weekend build if you plan your steps and account of paint drying.
Not these exact ones but this should give you the idea PATIKIL L Type PCB Spacer, 15 Pack PCB Insulated Board Motherboard Standoffs Plastic Foot Spacer for Arcade Gaming Board Replacement Parts a.co/d/7vtQ2nb
Excellent build!! I am looking at Arcade power supplies that would be capable of powering the 5v 4A Xu4, the 12v 50w speakers, 12v fans, switches, 5v leds to avoid all the bulky connectors in back and do a simple inlay bus bar that I can have recessed and find the next level up category on your system to make it a little more modular. Do you have any recommendations?
Hi Mike, First of all big fan of the videos, gave me the push I needed to make my own build. I am pretty much finished but I have one BIG problem. My controllers are being detected inconsistently, some times only 1 controller is detected, some times both. They also seem to get swapped over etc. I have made sure the controllers are both wired identically and I have so far tried Recalbox and Batocera to see if it makes a difference, no luck. Have you encountered this issue yourself? I am using a Raspberry Pi 5 Any advice is much appreciated, I have been tearing my hair out over this. Thanks.
@@benhaddon4376 this almost sounds like a potential dead cable or usb port on your controller encoder... hmmm I have had my controllers get swapped during the initial setup and I would just switch which usb ports they were plugged into until first player was actually working as first player. but once programmed in the menu recalbox would remember what I had done. As to inconsistency it could be a faulty wire or controller board. I make sure I have no other settings or wireless controllers hooked up, bluetooth off, etc I have used anything past a Pi3 since I haven't built one of these for myself since these videos. I have held in person workshops and helped others build their cabinets and issues usually arise with cheap hardware or encoders. Tricky to find good quality control with some of the mass produced products. I wish you luck and please keep me updated!
@@WeBuildStuff Thanks so much for the reply! I purchased my controllers in a pack of 4 players, so I do have spare encoders I can swap over. I will give that a try and see if it helps. Looking online, a lot of the hardware available appear to use identical encoder boards, is there a specific kit you recommend? I am from the UK so hopefully I can purchase them where I am. Thanks again!
@@WeBuildStuff Hi Mike, just to let you know, in the end simply swapping usb ports for my speakers and second player controllers fixed everything. Now working perfectly, thanks for your help.
Great work and video as always! I'm pretty new to woodworking, and following your plans for the bartop arcade. What is the name or type of router bit one would need to create a 'duplicate' side piece of the cabinet - assuming I'd cut the first one using a jigsaw?
Trim bits! Make sure that the one you buy has the bearing in the right place (copy what I did in the video if you like) and the right size shank for your router! woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6356/what-is-the-difference-between-flush-trim-pattern-and-template-router-bits
You could use the arduino to control things like lights and stuff but I don't believe there is support or enough power to run an arcade front end and emulators
whoa, really great videos, very detailed. Easy to follow your instructions and nice with the detailed plans. Your next project should be a Full size (maybee wide body) Pinball machine ;-
I am doing this project, but with a raspberry pi3. How did you connected the buttons and the joysticks to the odroid? Do you know how can I connect them to my Pi3?
Two ways: wires from microswitches directly to the GPIO headers on the odroid/pi3. You need to find diagram that fits the current version you have. I think I have pictures and some more videos here: holbrooktech.weebly.com/pi-arcade-101.html There are premade kits like this www.arcadexpress.com/en/cables-wires/300-1052-cableado-arcade-para-gpio-raspberry-pi-3-b-4.html Or wiring each microswitch individually to each header... that's how I made my first arcades. 2nd My personal favorite are uab joystick encoders that plug right into the usb on your board like this a.co/d/c2TJp2u The even easier way is to buy an all in one kit that comes with joysticks and buttons. a.co/d/gaz8lQC This is almost plug and play. Watch out for loose wiring that can be hard to diagnose when a button isn't working You can then open up the menu in recalbox and program the controls to match specific buttons ( x y a b, etc) I hope that helps!
great video and videos in general! I have been looking into making some tabletop cabinets for myself and my friend. Happened to stumble upon your channel and really enjoy the level of detail you put into what you are doing. If you had to pick the thing that took the most troubleshooting, what do you think it would be? I am also curious if you have made any Cabinet that's were fitted with anything besides typical Arcade getup; such as a Wii cabinet, Jamma board, etc. ? Do you receive inquiries about the cabinet before you build(Do you build to customer or en mass)? Do you think it is imperative to have removable panels with T nuts? Is this just for ease of use assembling, and or potentially installing a mini fridge(had to reference) later?
Thanks for the kind words. Not a whole lot of troubleshooting with one off custom builds for me as I have a rough plan when I start based on the parts I bought (build to fit size of screen, amount of buttons, size of speakers, fit through a door). As each next step comes up I usually make a drawing or measure as I go to fit the next part and try to think 2 steps ahead to avoid wasting material. I really enjoy the process. No just these simple arcade setups using raspberry pi or Odroid. This was built for a student and his dad and we spent time before any cuts were made planning to fit their requirements/wishes. The only money made off this project comes from any TH-cam revenue so I hope this video gets as popular as my other builds eventually! Removable panels are just my style as I enjoy planning out modular systems even though they will most likely never be taken apart. I tried to plan for a future thing in this case (mini fridge/subwoofer install). It would be much faster to build if I was just cutting, gluing, and nailing permanently.
@@sP4Ceogame some neogeo games use 7 buttons. 8 would be cool if doing a PC build and you are playing something that requires extra triggers like a modern xbox/ps controller would have
Ive been looking into the Odroid xu4 and Recalbox but Im a bit confused. Watching your video all I see in the Odroid and the boards that the controls and buttons are connected to. Can you help me with what I need to have all the games you have?
To find games you will need to search for "game roms" on the internet. I don't show how to source roms in the video. Sometimes you can download full rom sets or individually
You can never have enough clamps haha ... Well I used to say you can never have too many clamps .. I bought 40 one time just for one job then still bought a load of big quick release Irwin clamps and then some long sash clamps ...
I provide free videos and plans to DIYers . Not enough profit in building cabinets unless doing big runs. I only made $100 profit on this one as it was for a buddy
When making my template I eyeballed or traced circle shaped objects to fit. For the larger arc that goes from the upper marquee to the control panel I bent a long ruler into the arc that looked good and traced it with a pencil. Not everything is exact to the CAD plans. I use those as a starting point and make changes as I wanted or needed to without overthinking too much
Not everything is shown exactly in the plans. Sometimes you have to measure and make something fit. That being said I'm not sure which circle you are referring to (I built this in 2018). Can you reply with a timestamp in the video showing which circle. I may be able to explain better if I can see which part you are talking about.
@@Kevinka98 bottom of page 3 it says 46.18 in the side view but It isn't listed on the panel breakout page. So I believe that piece would be 46.18 x 81.28. Trim to fit if tight as these numbers are straight out of Autocad and don't reflect small human errors in measurement when building.
My first 3 thoughts: 1. Great X-Mas Sweater 2. I hope those bandages on those two fingers are not saw related. 😳 3. Oh fuck, the way you are holding that circular saw scares the holy fuck out of me! 🫣 Am at minute 2. Great video so far. +1 sub. Chris 👋
@@unheilbargut thanks Chris! Bandages were related to an off camera soldering iron incident that happened 20 minutes before I filmed the intro oooops. What did I do with the circular saw that freaked you out?
@@WeBuildStuff First of all I would like to admit that I am in no shape or form able to say anything about how to handle such equipment. My skills are tiny and I never used one of those. I never have seen anybody hold this kind of saw so far in the front - that could be because I never looked that close or because my brain is a swiss cheese and those holes usually swallow a lot of memories 😅. Those soldering accidents are meant to be. When I tried some silver soldering and some glass melting, I managed to grab the working piece about a minute after I had it orange glowing, because of said swiss cheese brain. Luckily I am due to my MS and disabilities taking a metric ton of opioids, so I didn‘t suffer that long, but hot pieces of metal and I are incompatible I guess. 🙈 (And by now I have seen your entire video and must say: amazing work!)
Big stationary equipment that are harder for other people to own and store like a tablesaw, bandsaw, etc, since I had too many viewers complaining that my shop was too well equipped and not realistic for the average DIY person. I tried to only use tools that I could fit in the trunk of my car like a hand router, hand drill circular saw, jigsaw, hand sander, etc. I recently bought a used portable air compressor and brad nailer setup for $60 that just required a bit of tinkering to get working well. This is a realistic project to build in a driveway or backyard with those types of power or hand tools.
@@KaungKhantKyawZow at the time of filmimg in 2018 I probably spent over $1000 CAD on this. I should have done a different paint method to save on costs
@@WeBuildStuff This is true. I also need to clear my shed to put said tools... I've been wanting to make an arcade cabinet since I played Donkey Kong back when it first came out... Maybe your video will give me the push I need!
@@themaniac5864 thanks! Not meaning to be aggressive. I specifically tried to avoid the big woodwork tools like a tablesaw, bandsaw, chopsaw, stationary big tools, etc, since I kept getting comments on my other arcade videos about my shop being "fancy". I tried to mostly use tools that I also have at home that can be bought new or used that I consider basic as they were some of the first hand held power tools I learned when I was younger and also teach teenagers in shop class how to operate. Thanks for watching!
Why is that just about all the built bartop arcades I have seen on youtube or on Ebay for sale are using horizontal monitors? The problem I see is that a lot of games like Ms. Pacman, Donkey Kong, Frogger, Burgertime, Punchout and tons of shooters use vertical screen. If you use horizontal monitor your screen get shrunk down a lot - you'd have huge black frame over the screen of the game. The best way is to have 2 arcade bartops: one using horizontal screen and the other using vertical screen. That way you'd get to have the best of both worlds. I don't see too many built arcade bartop arcades with veritcal screen. Another way around it is to have a software program that is coded within Batocera or Hyperspin to automatically adjust the screen according to your screen size and resolution. I dont' think the author of Batocera or Hyperspin has thought of that ..or I am expecting too much. I think it's software possible.
For the love of god use shrinktubes and not some weird ass tape when you solder wires together. The rest was professional and nice but things like this will piss anyone off especially the next person opening the arcade.
Good thing this was a hobby build for a buddy lol Project was on a time crunch so did what was needed at the moment with what I had on hand. Thanks for watching
Basic not primitive. A circular saw, jigsaw, router, and nailer are basic carpentry tools that 13 year olds learn to use in my classes. All can be bought used for cheap and are basic hand-woodworking tools. "Fancy and not basic" to me would be stationary equipment like a tablesaw, industrial thickness planer and jointer setup. This isn't five minute crafts using cardboard and paperclips or 'primitive' building with sticks and mud.
I believe I made the stencil out of other material I had from a previous project. I remember buying 3 full sheets of 4x8 MDF but having leftovers afterwards
@@WeBuildStuff Thanks for the response, Although I do I have another question what is the unit of measure in the plans becuase the height seems right for cm but the width doesn't.
Before the internet, this was the only way to play games with your friends. We're always nicer in person than the internet. Nice build.
Nice build, a tip to avoid consume your Freud bit and do less dust, after clamping the template to the "real mdf side face" cut with a jigsaw close to the template 2mm wider for example, a jigsaw blade is way cheaper and do less dust, after that you use the router, this way the router bit will be cutting 1/4 of wood "face".
Believe me I felt stupid not doing that exaxt same thing and wished I had filmed that!
Thank you. I saved your plans from the previous version, few years ago. I actually collected everything I needed to make this, the wood, Pi, joysticks, screen, everything but the issue is where I live, no space to house this or build. I am hoping this is the year where I can buy my first home with my husband, and this is something I hope I can build next year. The good thing has been, my tools has grown a lot since your video, been buying tools on sale. But awesome to see your are making these, appreciate the video.
start with a tabletop version, you can always build out a stand later! My husband and I are in the same pickle
@@MajimeTV hey, finally got my own place with a garage which I am converting to my workshop. I am going to make a tabletop version, maybe then build a stand later.
Awesome Video! I am a high school technology teacher and have a student attempting a much simpler arcade cabinet, but your video has illustrated so many things we haven't thought of yet. It will be very helpful in bringing their project to the finish line. Thank you very much for sharing!
I have a few different arcade builds on my channel for other ideas too!
Brilliant video I was gripped from start to finish, the fact that you used what I think of every day DIY tools to make this and showed each step was great. I know I have the DIY skills and knowledge of emulation and wiring to complete a project like this my only problem is space. I found this video very inspirational 😁
@@markpotter8280 thanks for the kind words. Hope parts of it help you build your own!
Thank you so much for this video. So easy to follow along. I was just able to build my monster using your instructions and it’s the first project I’ve taken on. I wish I could send you a picture
Watching from Brasil in 2024 nice project thank you
great video! probably one of the best full length builds I've seen. will definitely be using this video for ideas of when I build mine!
Definitely cut the template out of both pieces with a jig saw leaving about an eighth of an inch for the trim bit to "trim". Never cut material with a router like that (using a bearing guided trim bit). After you route one side, use that side in place of your template. That'll guarantee they are identical. Great build! Love the finished cabinet.
That Chipmunks cover of Dragonforce in the background of the video is 🔥
@@itchyisvegeta i went through the fire and the flames to avoid copyright issues
Nice job. Everything is awesome.
thanks for the video, I'm planning on making my own cabinet this spring, and this really helped alot! cheers!
That's crazy you're still making cabinets! I followed your blue prints for the bartop cabinet years ago and it came out soo sick! Hand painted the cabinet too. I appreciate all you do man, keep it up.
That's awesome!
57:30 Dupont (black square jumpers) connectors 2.54mm pitch JST SM are for circuit board headers. Old DIP circuit board 1970's electronics thru-hole integrated circuit design of 0.1" spacing.
JST XH 2.50mm pitch - 2 Pin & 3 pin are used on the Zero delay boards, come in 2-6 connector plug/socket design.
JST make different pitch SM 2.54mm, XH 2.50mm, PH 2.00mm, ZH 1.50mm, GH 1.25mm, SH 1.00mm are some of the pin centre designs.
I love how you show us EVERYTHING it’s a really big help thankyou❤
Amazing, I'm planning on building a street fighter 6 cab and this was very helpful man. Thanks!
Don't Hadouken yourself with any tools! Good luck and thanks for watching!
If you document the build, I'd be very keen to see the process and the final result :)
This was a really fun watch. I wish my brain worked like yours. Hope to see more arcade concepts from you soon
Thank you man
I ve downloaded 2018 plans and still I haven't made it but it is in my head
One day i ll take the time
definitely gave me some ideas. im building a full setup with retro arcade, retro shooter, ps4 and (racing sim) and connected to my pc (it will be right next to it).
58:15 The missing female spade connector is 0.187" used on Suzo-Happ style buttons (micro switch) - white/blue harness, 0.110" are used on Sanwa style buttons (keyboard switch) - white/red harness.
I hope your comment helps someone else who needs it too! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for keeping it simple cool custom design
0:00 on your panel at the wall what is the top most left placeholdes for?
great! going to try it myself
Attach the template to your MDF with a couple screws. If you do it on the inside face you won't see the holes. You could use your router to transfer your holes over to the MDF. Set your router to make a shallow cut and you will have a slot for you cross pieces.
Really nice build.. you've put a really nice efforts on this one. I would like to see you sharing the build cost in terms of the material used and the labour you guys put towards the end of the video or at least in the video description.
I want to build a cabinet like this one but for my desktop computer, just to have a retro theme of work place.
At the time I overspent on a lot of it and spent over $1100 on the build back in 2018. I would have done cheaper paint and a different system for the backlighting and fans but due to time constraints I went for what was available quickly. I lost track of how many hours I spent since but could probably build it a lot faster the 2nd time around
Awesome job dude 🔥🤙🏾
Great work bro ❤👏👏👏👏👍
Thank you for the amazing video and excellent plans. I have old CRT TV that I would love to use in my home arcade (I tried, and it works with my TV box). However that will make the arcade even deeper and heavier. Great idea with the coasters, that will make thing much easier to lug around. Thanks again and keep it up! (Your website is amazing, btw, I have bookmarked it)
Great video! With the low clearance at the bottom, how are you able to reach beneath the cabinet to lock and unlock the back casters? Are you just tilting the cabinet out every time and having someone reach below to unlock and lock?
@@KevinPreis the rear locking casters are very easy to access. It is also heavy enough that the cabinet doesn't move even when unlocked
Insulation on the electrical connectors isn't to prevent them from touching. It's to keep you from electrocuting yourself if you drop a screw or tool. Either insulate them or put it in a box.
@@richardmaclean5846 good tip
@WeBuildStuff Your final cabinet looked great. I like the hinged door, the fans, and the color combo. My favorite thing though was even as you had barely started you were thinking about "the next one". 🤣🤣🤣 I think that happens to every person who builds one of these.
This would be a dream core! Btw you should make a video on groovymister :)
Really good build and very well explained. The only thing i'm missing, is the measurements for the joystick and buttons, i see you mentioned you created the layout in photoshop, are you able to make this available to us?
Thanks
Good job .....it just needs a sub
Is there any reason you can use strips of your 3/4 mdf as the brackets on the inside instead of the 1” wood?
Yes you could. I used solid wood for areas where I use screws or fasteners. Ive had mdf strip when using wood screws and jot being carefull enough
I have more than 25 pcs PCB arcade game originaly Japanese made with JMMA type connection for sale . All are in very good condition and work perfectly, very popular titles.
the only critisizm I have is that the plastic sheet in front of the TV, I would have mounted it flush with the TV it's self. Basically creating an air tight seal between the plastic sheet and the TV screen itself. I feel like not only would this look way better, as the glare of the plastic looks really tacky covering the black cabinet bezel, but it would ensure no dust gets on the TV screen.
Would it be possible to build one but not permanent... so that it can be disassembled into maybe 4 main parts for easier transportation?
of course. that just takes a bit of engineering
Build the base separate like this link
www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Bartop-Arcade-Stand-Tabletop-Arcade-Machine_1600464379744.html
Basically build a bartop arcade (you can see other videos on my channel for two different sizes with plans) and then a base that can bolt on and off.
Great instructional video. I'm trying to get a XU4 set up but having issues with N64 games being super choppy. What image did you use and how did you get the N64 games playable?
@@dadwillmake at the time I used the Recalbox front end and the default emulator it came setup with. I booted upnmy old XU4 again with a fresh install and found the choppy stuff as well especially with audio. Emulators like project 64 on a windows pc work, raspberry pi usually works... wish i had time to figure tge xu4 better. You can change which emulator is used but sometimes it varies on which game is better compatible with a specific emulator. If you find one that is smooth let me know!
great video! I am totally trying this one out! One question though, why do you use mustard instead of glue? Is this some inside joke I didnt get? Also, could you upload the side panel layout with the internal markers as well? that would help me a lot!
Awesome build! Just a thought, could you have painted the back side of the plastic button panel, to hide the joystick screws?
100% could have. You can also attach from the inside so you dont see any screws
So, I'm at the 0:20 mark and I seriously question if I should watch on, seeing two bandaged fingers. 😅
Haha you're the first one to say anything.
I didn't include it in the video but ten minutes before filming I accidentally touched a hot soldering iron unrelated to the arcade machine.
Please keep watching haha
This video is great, and so are the plans (however, as an unskilled woodworker, the angles always confuse me). Do you happen to have a parts/supply list? Also, how many hours would you say this took you? Thanks!
This is an older build but there is a link in the description of some parts I think. For the angles I drew what looked good to me on paper and then in Autocad. Basically drew it on paper and then used a clear protractor to see what the cut angle would be, adjust machine accordingly. I spent a lot of hours on this build and didn't rush anything so what you see is just a sped up version of EVERY building step I did. Painting alone was probably 3 hours (I would love a spray setup!).
A lot of the angles are not necessary and you will see a lot of old commercial arcades have gaps on the back where you don't see. You can also used trim to cover gaps. Look at house finishing construction where we cover gaps with molding and filler. Good luck and I hope you start your project!
For the time I rarely got to work a full day on it. I built this over a month an hour at a time.
If I didn't have to stop this could be a weekend build if you plan your steps and account of paint drying.
Thank you so much for your reply!
Where did you get the plastic feet/stand-offs for the computer board?
Not these exact ones but this should give you the idea
PATIKIL L Type PCB Spacer, 15 Pack PCB Insulated Board Motherboard Standoffs Plastic Foot Spacer for Arcade Gaming Board Replacement Parts a.co/d/7vtQ2nb
@@WeBuildStuff Thank you!
Excellent build!! I am looking at Arcade power supplies that would be capable of powering the 5v 4A Xu4, the 12v 50w speakers, 12v fans, switches, 5v leds to avoid all the bulky connectors in back and do a simple inlay bus bar that I can have recessed and find the next level up category on your system to make it a little more modular. Do you have any recommendations?
Hi Mike,
First of all big fan of the videos, gave me the push I needed to make my own build.
I am pretty much finished but I have one BIG problem. My controllers are being detected inconsistently, some times only 1 controller is detected, some times both. They also seem to get swapped over etc.
I have made sure the controllers are both wired identically and I have so far tried Recalbox and Batocera to see if it makes a difference, no luck.
Have you encountered this issue yourself?
I am using a Raspberry Pi 5
Any advice is much appreciated, I have been tearing my hair out over this.
Thanks.
@@benhaddon4376 this almost sounds like a potential dead cable or usb port on your controller encoder... hmmm
I have had my controllers get swapped during the initial setup and I would just switch which usb ports they were plugged into until first player was actually working as first player. but once programmed in the menu recalbox would remember what I had done.
As to inconsistency it could be a faulty wire or controller board.
I make sure I have no other settings or wireless controllers hooked up, bluetooth off, etc
I have used anything past a Pi3 since I haven't built one of these for myself since these videos. I have held in person workshops and helped others build their cabinets and issues usually arise with cheap hardware or encoders. Tricky to find good quality control with some of the mass produced products.
I wish you luck and please keep me updated!
@@WeBuildStuff Thanks so much for the reply!
I purchased my controllers in a pack of 4 players, so I do have spare encoders I can swap over. I will give that a try and see if it helps.
Looking online, a lot of the hardware available appear to use identical encoder boards, is there a specific kit you recommend? I am from the UK so hopefully I can purchase them where I am.
Thanks again!
@@WeBuildStuff Hi Mike, just to let you know, in the end simply swapping usb ports for my speakers and second player controllers fixed everything. Now working perfectly, thanks for your help.
@benhaddon4376 sweet! Glad to hear it was a simple fix
Nice video!! 🕹️🤩
Thanks for watching!
Where do you get your electronic components from? There's so many to choose from and it's a little overwhelming
This build was Amazon primarily for fast shipping
@@WeBuildStuff Thanks! And thank you for this in-depth video.
@@MotorBro78 i hope the video is helpful as a starting point to customizing your own project!
Great work and video as always!
I'm pretty new to woodworking, and following your plans for the bartop arcade. What is the name or type of router bit one would need to create a 'duplicate' side piece of the cabinet - assuming I'd cut the first one using a jigsaw?
Trim bits!
Make sure that the one you buy has the bearing in the right place (copy what I did in the video if you like) and the right size shank for your router!
woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6356/what-is-the-difference-between-flush-trim-pattern-and-template-router-bits
@@WeBuildStuff thanks alot for the speed reply - looks like I've no more excuses to not get started :D - I'm off to buy wood now
@@lintfordpickle yes!!
Love this build. Exactly what I would like to do. Only one question. I don't have a pi but will Arduino work?
You could use the arduino to control things like lights and stuff but I don't believe there is support or enough power to run an arcade front end and emulators
awesome video. greatly appreciate your designs
whoa, really great videos, very detailed. Easy to follow your instructions and nice with the detailed plans.
Your next project should be a Full size (maybee wide body) Pinball machine ;-
Check out my buddy @wayofthewrench for a sweet pinball machine build
@@WeBuildStuff Thank you for the direction ;- ) some crazy but very detailed stuff he is doing, as you.
I am doing this project, but with a raspberry pi3. How did you connected the buttons and the joysticks to the odroid? Do you know how can I connect them to my Pi3?
Two ways: wires from microswitches directly to the GPIO headers on the odroid/pi3. You need to find diagram that fits the current version you have.
I think I have pictures and some more videos here:
holbrooktech.weebly.com/pi-arcade-101.html
There are premade kits like this
www.arcadexpress.com/en/cables-wires/300-1052-cableado-arcade-para-gpio-raspberry-pi-3-b-4.html
Or wiring each microswitch individually to each header... that's how I made my first arcades.
2nd
My personal favorite are uab joystick encoders that plug right into the usb on your board like this
a.co/d/c2TJp2u
The even easier way is to buy an all in one kit that comes with joysticks and buttons.
a.co/d/gaz8lQC
This is almost plug and play. Watch out for loose wiring that can be hard to diagnose when a button isn't working
You can then open up the menu in recalbox and program the controls to match specific buttons ( x y a b, etc)
I hope that helps!
You using a drill as a driver and a driver for a drill?
@@chiefgilray haha. Whatever is closest!
great video and videos in general! I have been looking into making some tabletop cabinets for myself and my friend. Happened to stumble upon your channel and really enjoy the level of detail you put into what you are doing. If you had to pick the thing that took the most troubleshooting, what do you think it would be? I am also curious if you have made any Cabinet that's were fitted with anything besides typical Arcade getup; such as a Wii cabinet, Jamma board, etc. ? Do you receive inquiries about the cabinet before you build(Do you build to customer or en mass)? Do you think it is imperative to have removable panels with T nuts? Is this just for ease of use assembling, and or potentially installing a mini fridge(had to reference) later?
Thanks for the kind words.
Not a whole lot of troubleshooting with one off custom builds for me as I have a rough plan when I start based on the parts I bought (build to fit size of screen, amount of buttons, size of speakers, fit through a door). As each next step comes up I usually make a drawing or measure as I go to fit the next part and try to think 2 steps ahead to avoid wasting material. I really enjoy the process.
No just these simple arcade setups using raspberry pi or Odroid.
This was built for a student and his dad and we spent time before any cuts were made planning to fit their requirements/wishes. The only money made off this project comes from any TH-cam revenue so I hope this video gets as popular as my other builds eventually!
Removable panels are just my style as I enjoy planning out modular systems even though they will most likely never be taken apart. I tried to plan for a future thing in this case (mini fridge/subwoofer install). It would be much faster to build if I was just cutting, gluing, and nailing permanently.
i have a small question pls, why some arcade consoles have 6 action buttons and other some have 8 ? which game we can play with 8 buttons ?
@@sP4Ceogame some neogeo games use 7 buttons. 8 would be cool if doing a PC build and you are playing something that requires extra triggers like a modern xbox/ps controller would have
@WeBuildStuff maybe like resident evil maybe. Thank you for your answer
Ive been looking into the Odroid xu4 and Recalbox but Im a bit confused. Watching your video all I see in the Odroid and the boards that the controls and buttons are connected to. Can you help me with what I need to have all the games you have?
To find games you will need to search for "game roms" on the internet. I don't show how to source roms in the video. Sometimes you can download full rom sets or individually
Hi ! Nice build !
You actually have the rat overlords as sponsors? 🤪
Lol
You can never have enough clamps haha ... Well I used to say you can never have too many clamps .. I bought 40 one time just for one job then still bought a load of big quick release Irwin clamps and then some long sash clamps ...
Diagonal TV in cm? Thank you
@@Kevinka98 this 32 inch tv would be 81.28cm after unit conversion
Can i also change all measurements to full decimal? Instead of 81.28 to 82 and 19.89 so its easy for cutting or o have to use exact measurements?
do you sell the builds? i'd like to have a full size dragons lair and also a full size killer instinct one day when i can afford it
I provide free videos and plans to DIYers . Not enough profit in building cabinets unless doing big runs. I only made $100 profit on this one as it was for a buddy
Whats the diameter of the circle? On the side panel layout. There are no measurements?
When making my template I eyeballed or traced circle shaped objects to fit. For the larger arc that goes from the upper marquee to the control panel I bent a long ruler into the arc that looked good and traced it with a pencil.
Not everything is exact to the CAD plans. I use those as a starting point and make changes as I wanted or needed to without overthinking too much
The bottom piece is missing in plans.
Not everything is shown exactly in the plans. Sometimes you have to measure and make something fit. That being said I'm not sure which circle you are referring to (I built this in 2018). Can you reply with a timestamp in the video showing which circle. I may be able to explain better if I can see which part you are talking about.
@@Kevinka98 bottom of page 3 it says 46.18 in the side view but It isn't listed on the panel breakout page. So I believe that piece would be 46.18 x 81.28. Trim to fit if tight as these numbers are straight out of Autocad and don't reflect small human errors in measurement when building.
How much if you build one for me ,I'll give u the size and type start to finish? Must use real good wood
My first 3 thoughts:
1. Great X-Mas Sweater
2. I hope those bandages on those two fingers are not saw related. 😳
3. Oh fuck, the way you are holding that circular saw scares the holy fuck out of me! 🫣
Am at minute 2. Great video so far. +1 sub. Chris 👋
@@unheilbargut thanks Chris! Bandages were related to an off camera soldering iron incident that happened 20 minutes before I filmed the intro oooops.
What did I do with the circular saw that freaked you out?
@@WeBuildStuff First of all I would like to admit that I am in no shape or form able to say anything about how to handle such equipment. My skills are tiny and I never used one of those. I never have seen anybody hold this kind of saw so far in the front - that could be because I never looked that close or because my brain is a swiss cheese and those holes usually swallow a lot of memories 😅.
Those soldering accidents are meant to be. When I tried some silver soldering and some glass melting, I managed to grab the working piece about a minute after I had it orange glowing, because of said swiss cheese brain. Luckily I am due to my MS and disabilities taking a metric ton of opioids, so I didn‘t suffer that long, but hot pieces of metal and I are incompatible I guess. 🙈
(And by now I have seen your entire video and must say: amazing work!)
@@unheilbargut thanks a ton for watching and I hope you enjoyed it
1:13:03... "Toasty!" :D
if these are basic tools which are the advanced ones ? laser cutters?
Big stationary equipment that are harder for other people to own and store like a tablesaw, bandsaw, etc, since I had too many viewers complaining that my shop was too well equipped and not realistic for the average DIY person.
I tried to only use tools that I could fit in the trunk of my car like a hand router, hand drill circular saw, jigsaw, hand sander, etc. I recently bought a used portable air compressor and brad nailer setup for $60 that just required a bit of tinkering to get working well. This is a realistic project to build in a driveway or backyard with those types of power or hand tools.
What was the overall build time?😅
I spent more hours than I should have making it up as I went. I could do a similar build now in 2-3 days
Cost
@@KaungKhantKyawZow at the time of filmimg in 2018 I probably spent over $1000 CAD on this. I should have done a different paint method to save on costs
39:10 *chipmunk chatter* O M G!!! *more chipmunk chatter*
The weird things I hear while editing😂
Person either amazed at my cabinet skills or gossip amongst the robotics club
How do you get the arcade game legally? I am interested to build my arcade one day but want to follow the law doing it
The law doesn't care about you and load of games you couldn't even get legally if you tried.
sound like he is in a school or one of those sharing work shops for city folks i herd a bit about may be
High school shop class. Projects like this show kids real world applications of the skills they learn here
yep thats a good thing @@WeBuildStuff
Amazing ! 🇧🇷💯
Fantástico 😊👍
Amazing
Awesome
I so need tools.
Used tools can be cheap and work just as well! Keep an eye out on marketplace for deals!
@@WeBuildStuff This is true. I also need to clear my shed to put said tools... I've been wanting to make an arcade cabinet since I played Donkey Kong back when it first came out... Maybe your video will give me the push I need!
Most people don't have air tools
Niiice. 👍🏾💯
very nice the the marquee and side are is pretty bad
@@nellen55 special request from the person who funded the build haha
@@WeBuildStuff fair, you did a great build over all
@@nellen55 thanks for watching!
Are you filming this while teaching a shop class? 😂
During non teaching blocks, arcade building club, or outside regular hours. We share the space with other teachers.
I bought plywood for mine because MDF is so foul
I bought it in the mines of Moria and I've had regrets ever since. I need to find a less foul supplier.
I would have painted inside OCD lol
OK CAN YOU BUILD ME 1 :)
somebody in 39:11 screaming
I left that audio loud on purpose haha
"basic tools" i see a router and circular saw... :/
Basic for construction/woodworker. If you want sticks and stones try minecraft 🤣
@@WeBuildStuff agressive, but fair. Left the like anyway 🙄
@@themaniac5864 thanks! Not meaning to be aggressive. I specifically tried to avoid the big woodwork tools like a tablesaw, bandsaw, chopsaw, stationary big tools, etc, since I kept getting comments on my other arcade videos about my shop being "fancy". I tried to mostly use tools that I also have at home that can be bought new or used that I consider basic as they were some of the first hand held power tools I learned when I was younger and also teach teenagers in shop class how to operate. Thanks for watching!
Why is that just about all the built bartop arcades I have seen on youtube or on Ebay for sale are using horizontal monitors? The problem I see is that a lot of games like Ms. Pacman, Donkey Kong, Frogger, Burgertime, Punchout and tons of shooters use vertical screen. If you use horizontal monitor your screen get shrunk down a lot - you'd have huge black frame over the screen of the game. The best way is to have 2 arcade bartops: one using horizontal screen and the other using vertical screen. That way you'd get to have the best of both worlds. I don't see too many built arcade bartop arcades with veritcal screen. Another way around it is to have a software program that is coded within Batocera or Hyperspin to automatically adjust the screen according to your screen size and resolution. I dont' think the author of Batocera or Hyperspin has thought of that ..or I am expecting too much. I think it's software possible.
I Dare You To Build Shoes With A Spring On The Bottom So You Can Jump Super High! Pls Donate Them To Me After You Make Them T-T
For the love of god use shrinktubes and not some weird ass tape when you solder wires together. The rest was professional and nice but things like this will piss anyone off especially the next person opening the arcade.
Good thing this was a hobby build for a buddy lol
Project was on a time crunch so did what was needed at the moment with what I had on hand. Thanks for watching
@@WeBuildStuff Well atleast the rest was professional, I gotta give you that.
With "basic tools"... not even you buy that lie.
Basic not primitive. A circular saw, jigsaw, router, and nailer are basic carpentry tools that 13 year olds learn to use in my classes. All can be bought used for cheap and are basic hand-woodworking tools.
"Fancy and not basic" to me would be stationary equipment like a tablesaw, industrial thickness planer and jointer setup.
This isn't five minute crafts using cardboard and paperclips or 'primitive' building with sticks and mud.
In the supply’s lists for the 4x8 particles you said you used 2 and a half is that including the extra stencil you made @we build stuff
I believe I made the stencil out of other material I had from a previous project.
I remember buying 3 full sheets of 4x8 MDF but having leftovers afterwards
@@WeBuildStuff Thanks for the response, Although I do I have another question what is the unit of measure in the plans becuase the height seems right for cm but the width doesn't.
Download the CAD plans. Everything should be metric. I built it years ago and don't have my paper plans anymore