I had no idea Eric Wareheim knew so much about bikes. Seriously though thank you for such a detailed breakdown. I’m confident about rebuilding my forks now thanks to you!
Thanks for the video guys. A tip for those who may be doing their forks too, use a cordless impact driver to loosen that 6mm bolt. I did and both spun right out.
Came right off with a wrench for me. I don't like using power tools on these things if I don't have to, I find it too easy to overtighten or otherwise screw something up.
@@starsword-c2534 I concur. Hand Break it loose and if you "must" use a drill go ahead but I do not want to shear it off with an (air, cordless or corded) impact driver. That is a bad practice when working on these old bikes. Shear bolts is a PIA the way it is, you do not need additional help to make your job even tougher.
Dear Common Motors, Have i told you lately how totally Lost i'd be without your how to videos?! not to mention your online store! Just finished this job tonight. next, new mufflers. by the time i'm done i will have done everything you guys suggest lol. then i'm gonna ride from NY to TX and thank Brenden personally. i might even ask for his autograph!
Thanks for uploading these, man! Your solution for the removal tool when the bottom bolt spins is great and I'm happy you included that, because I know both of mine will spin... I'll definitely be ordering some of those easy-install fork seals from you when I get going on my CB350 forks this winter.
This was a huge help. I was installing some aftermarket springs in my CB750K4 project bike and realized I had no idea what I was doing-the Clymer manual didn't describe it well at all.
I'm restoring a 71' CB350 K3 and I used the EZ fork seals for the rebuild of my forks. When I first put them in and got the snap ring in place, they appeared to fit perfectly. However, after measuring out and putting in my fork oil, the next morning I returned to the garage to find a puddle of green under the bike. Under pressure, the seal was leaking and running down the outside of the tube. I have the bike on a floor jack to support it while I get everything put back together. It appears the jack itself has a minor leak and so overnight, the front of the bike sunk forward and came to rest on the reassembled fork. The resulting pressure caused the oil to push its way out of the top of the seal where it ran down the outside of the lower fork case and onto the garage floor. The leak is coming from around the seal, steel washer and snap ring. When I pump the tube from the top, there is a noticeable amount of oil on the upper tube and as it runs back down the oil then collects in the top of the lower case around the snap ring. I have racked my brain and the only variables that I figure would yield a different outcome from the video would either be the weight of the fork oil I used in the rebuild or the amount that I measured out with the cylinder. I opted to use 10W instead of the 15W Bel-Rey on personal preference, but I doubt that would make much of a difference. I'm also waiting on the dust covers so those have yet to be installed. It's also worth mentioning that I had a hell of a time getting the factory OEM seals out and as a result, there were a few surface pits and scratches around the top of the lower tube interior and on the surface of the flange underneath where the seal would sit from my seal puller/pry bar. I carefully sanded out these imperfections, but very little of the surface material was removed so there was very minor if any change to the factory diameter of the tube. I'm not sure how closely you monitor your comment section, but I could really use your help. Are there any washers or springs that I may have mistakenly removed with the original seals that need to be replaced in order for the EZ seals to be compatible or should I just cut my losses and opt for the standard factory seals? To save time, below is a list of everything I've tried to resolve the issue so far. Troubleshooting Checklist - Double checked the orientation of the seal when placing it into the tube - Made sure to lube up the seal with MMO while installing it to help it seat properly - Used a graduated cylinder and measured out a medium between the two measurements for oil given in the video - Checked drain plug on lower fork case to make sure it was properly tightened - Used black gasket sealer on the bottom fork bolt as a thread lock and torqued it to the factory specs - Pumped the fork with the top 33mm cap off to get a good amount of the oil into the lower case before reinstalling cap and sliding back into the triple tree
Brendan, i've watched all three of you videos, you really do a good Job explaining how to do it. My question is, can I just remove the lower leg and the top cap? Nut, that holds down to spring. To replace the seal in the leg without removing the tube from the triple tree.
How did you clean the old gunk out of the inside of the forks? What items and cleaners do you find work best? I have some gunk on the bottom I can't seem to flush out.
Great video, very helpful. My 500T does not have a washer on top of the seal next to the circlip like yours. Do you know if it is supposed to or does it not matter?
Hey guys thanks so much for these videos - helping me out a lot with my 76 cb 360. After disassembly, what are your methods of cleaning old parts before reassembly?
Is there a way to reattach without the work bench setup? The video on removal was extremely helpful but now I’m kind of up a creek without a paddle on the reinstall. Anyone help!
Ran into the same problem. They claim a bench-less uninstall and did it with the thinking they had a bench-less rebuild process to go along with it. Kinda useless when you still need a bench to rebuild it... or strong friend to hold the fork leg while you rebuild it because you dont have a bench or vise. I dont recommend the latter from experience.
Jesus is the only way to meet God, the true truth, and the true life. If you believe in Jesus, You get eternal life, you get out of judgment, you get life. Trust and welcome Jesus, who came to the light of life to save you. He is God the Creator.
when putting the spring in did you say "big side down, small side up" ? which side do the 2 or 3 smaller diameter turns go? haynes manual doesnt specify :(
I had no idea Eric Wareheim knew so much about bikes. Seriously though thank you for such a detailed breakdown. I’m confident about rebuilding my forks now thanks to you!
How many milliliters is 160cc
Thanks for the video guys. A tip for those who may be doing their forks too, use a cordless impact driver to loosen that 6mm bolt. I did and both spun right out.
Came right off with a wrench for me. I don't like using power tools on these things if I don't have to, I find it too easy to overtighten or otherwise screw something up.
@@starsword-c2534 I concur. Hand Break it loose and if you "must" use a drill go ahead but I do not want to shear it off with an (air, cordless or corded) impact driver. That is a bad practice when working on these old bikes. Shear bolts is a PIA the way it is, you do not need additional help to make your job even tougher.
Dear Common Motors,
Have i told you lately how totally Lost i'd be without your how to videos?! not to mention your online store! Just finished this job tonight. next, new mufflers. by the time i'm done i will have done everything you guys suggest lol. then i'm gonna ride from NY to TX and thank Brenden personally. i might even ask for his autograph!
Please do that ride! It sounds awesome!
I love your intro. My CB360T is the same color.
Thanks for uploading these, man! Your solution for the removal tool when the bottom bolt spins is great and I'm happy you included that, because I know both of mine will spin... I'll definitely be ordering some of those easy-install fork seals from you when I get going on my CB350 forks this winter.
I refilled with Lucas synthetic 15W fork oil. Huge improvement! Thanks for the tip!
Happy to help!
This was a huge help. I was installing some aftermarket springs in my CB750K4 project bike and realized I had no idea what I was doing-the Clymer manual didn't describe it well at all.
Glad we can help you out!
removed my drain bolt to find almost nothing inside. Glad i’m rebuilding. Just ordered the EZ seals for my 350
Great rebuild bud, helped me immensely 👍
i love the torque specs. just a hair past snug, thats probably good.
I'm restoring a 71' CB350 K3 and I used the EZ fork seals for the rebuild of my forks. When I first put them in and got the snap ring in place, they appeared to fit perfectly. However, after measuring out and putting in my fork oil, the next morning I returned to the garage to find a puddle of green under the bike. Under pressure, the seal was leaking and running down the outside of the tube.
I have the bike on a floor jack to support it while I get everything put back together. It appears the jack itself has a minor leak and so overnight, the front of the bike sunk forward and came to rest on the reassembled fork. The resulting pressure caused the oil to push its way out of the top of the seal where it ran down the outside of the lower fork case and onto the garage floor. The leak is coming from around the seal, steel washer and snap ring. When I pump the tube from the top, there is a noticeable amount of oil on the upper tube and as it runs back down the oil then collects in the top of the lower case around the snap ring.
I have racked my brain and the only variables that I figure would yield a different outcome from the video would either be the weight of the fork oil I used in the rebuild or the amount that I measured out with the cylinder. I opted to use 10W instead of the 15W Bel-Rey on personal preference, but I doubt that would make much of a difference. I'm also waiting on the dust covers so those have yet to be installed.
It's also worth mentioning that I had a hell of a time getting the factory OEM seals out and as a result, there were a few surface pits and scratches around the top of the lower tube interior and on the surface of the flange underneath where the seal would sit from my seal puller/pry bar. I carefully sanded out these imperfections, but very little of the surface material was removed so there was very minor if any change to the factory diameter of the tube.
I'm not sure how closely you monitor your comment section, but I could really use your help. Are there any washers or springs that I may have mistakenly removed with the original seals that need to be replaced in order for the EZ seals to be compatible or should I just cut my losses and opt for the standard factory seals?
To save time, below is a list of everything I've tried to resolve the issue so far.
Troubleshooting Checklist
- Double checked the orientation of the seal when placing it into the tube
- Made sure to lube up the seal with MMO while installing it to help it seat properly
- Used a graduated cylinder and measured out a medium between the two measurements for oil given in the video
- Checked drain plug on lower fork case to make sure it was properly tightened
- Used black gasket sealer on the bottom fork bolt as a thread lock and torqued it to the factory specs
- Pumped the fork with the top 33mm cap off to get a good amount of the oil into the lower case before reinstalling cap and sliding back into the triple tree
Great series of instructional videos. Cheers boys!
Thank you!
Very nicely done.
77 ct125 is really similar too the old two piece seal was a MFer to remove as well
Brendan, i've watched all three of you videos, you really do a good Job explaining how to do it. My question is, can I just remove the lower leg and the top cap? Nut, that holds down to spring. To replace the seal in the leg without removing the tube from the triple tree.
Gracias por tus consejos...
Really useful, thanks.
nice job!! i want to to do the same to my cm 250 and i want to know how much oil you put to forks
How did you clean the old gunk out of the inside of the forks? What items and cleaners do you find work best? I have some gunk on the bottom I can't seem to flush out.
Great video, very helpful. My 500T does not have a washer on top of the seal next to the circlip like yours. Do you know if it is supposed to or does it not matter?
Hey guys thanks so much for these videos - helping me out a lot with my 76 cb 360. After disassembly, what are your methods of cleaning old parts before reassembly?
I have a 550f and I was wondering which way the spring goes back in. Is it tighter springs up or down ?
Do you have a video for the 68 CL 350 fork because it’s totally different?
Getting ready to do the 1969 CB160 forks. Do you or anyone have any experience doing this make and model? Appreciate any info.
Super video series on the forks. Any reason the springs in the forks would need replacing?
Mostly just either wear, rust or upgrades. We carry certain ikon springs that give you a lot better ride feeling.
Fork bushing?
how much is your upper triple tree?
Do they make those EZ install fork seals for the 750's? Not having any luck finding them.
Contact our support department over at our website. If our supplier makes the size you need we might be able to special order you a pair.
I have to do this for my cb400 and I really don't want to
Is there a way to reattach without the work bench setup? The video on removal was extremely helpful but now I’m kind of up a creek without a paddle on the reinstall. Anyone help!
Ran into the same problem. They claim a bench-less uninstall and did it with the thinking they had a bench-less rebuild process to go along with it. Kinda useless when you still need a bench to rebuild it... or strong friend to hold the fork leg while you rebuild it because you dont have a bench or vise. I dont recommend the latter from experience.
Jesus is the only way to meet God, the true truth, and the true life. If you believe in Jesus,
You get eternal life, you get out of judgment, you get life. Trust and welcome Jesus, who came to the light of life to save you.
He is God the Creator.
when putting the spring in did you say "big side down, small side up" ? which side do the 2 or 3 smaller diameter turns go? haynes manual doesnt specify :(