So glad I found this video. I've been wanting to change my front fork springs to progressive springs for months. I didn't realize how easy that process would be until I saw this video. I guess when I changed my fork oil I'll put some better spring in the forks. I also didn't know how easy it was to change the fork oil. I've had the bike for a year and a half, probably time to change it. Who knows when the previous owner changed it last. Thanks Common Motor Collective!
I love you guys! :* For real though. I was wondering whether I *really* need to lift the front end (P.O. took centre stand off, makes me crazy) or if I could do one side at a time. Figured you guys would know. Low and behold, yup. Always practical, super useful info. Much thanks!
This does not work with the 350k4 because the cap is captive to the spring, and the spring is captive to the fork. Once I undid the cap I sat forward on the bike to get the cap and spring to protrude through the top of the fork and then syringed the oil in past the spring. That worked fine.
Quick tip for anyone looking to grab a graduated cylinder go to any beauty supply in your area and they are cheap. They might not be as large but it'll do the trick. Just throwing that out there. Oh yeah. Thanks Common Motor for being kickass!
Thanks for teh video. It occurred to me that maybe by taking the spring out to help get the oil out, maybe the air compressor could be used to help push all the oil out.
I'm restoring a 1972 Honda Sl100 I found leaning up against the side of a barn- one fork was completely full of water and the barn side one was full of green sludge. The fork situation looks pretty much the same as this one, so this video would have really helped. I should have watched it first. Here's why: I read the shop manual, which is horribly unspecific and decided to drain both sides simultaneously to save time. It did not. I pushed down to work the forks and the forks were so old and rusty that they stuck in the completely down position. I had to have a friend stand on a shovel through the wheel while I yanked up with all my might to get it loose. Then she had to hold it up while I managed to get a cap on one side so it could keep itself up. Then I alternated removing caps and filling each side with oil like the kind gentleman in the video specifies. That's definitely a lesson I only had to learn once. But, it made for some laughs and then we drank beer.
Haha! Oh man the stories about the stupid things we've all done working on our motorcycles are the best. The beer, laughs and knowledge gained for next time is always worth it though!
Im restoring a 550 that was found in similar circumstances,been siting outside since the 80s,I'm doing a total restoration,i pulled the forks completely apart,the stuff that was in there could probably be used as a weapon of mass destruction and it stunk to high heavens,lol , pulled everything apart, washed in a sink with pine sol and ran paper towels thru everything till they came out white,waiting on seals and fork covers,fun project.
I know this is an old video but thought I might try to see if I get a response. I am following the instructions but when I try to undo the top fork nut it just spins! It was very tight but eventually got it to start turning but it just stays pretty tight keeps turning? Any idea what is happening?
Take both caps off and remove drain plugs one at a time and work the forks up and down pumping out the oil one at a time. The forks will collapse all the way down. Your springs will now be sticking up about five inches. I made a funnel out of a large syringe i had for mixing two cycle gas. I removed the plunger and used it for a funnel with a four inch piece of 1/4" poly tube attached to it. Squeeze the poly tube in beside the spring and add oil. I pumped that out just to clean it out and added my oil back in for keeps. Put a small bottle jack under the front on the motor and jacked it up just a enough to get the front wheel off of the ground, The springs go right back down in the fork and all you have to do is tighten the caps. Easy! Pessy!
Working on my new to me 73 CB350G. Got to the step where I need to pull the spring out. The top cap appears to be attached to the damper rod. Not sure how to proceed because the spring and cap are in the way to add fluid. Pump it in from below like a transmission?!? First time I've hit a snag following your awesome videos.
Take both caps off and remove drain plugs one at a time and work the forks up and down pumping out the oil one at a time. The forks will collapse all the way down. Your springs will now be sticking up about five inches. I made a funnel out of a large syringe i had for mixing two cycle gas. I removed the plunger and used it for a funnel with a four inch piece of 1/4" poly tube attached to it. Squeeze the poly tube in beside the spring and add oil. I pumped that out just to clean it out and added my oil back in for keeps. Put a small bottle jack under the front on the motor and jacked it up just a enough to get the front wheel off of the ground, The springs go right back down in the fork and all you have to do is tighten the caps. Easy! Pessy! 😎
On my CB350F once I completely loosened the "top plug" it's attached or stuck to the spring. I was able to sneak fresh oil in from the side, through the spring and thread it back down, but what's going on? Looks the same as your arrangement
The CB200 (/CB175/160/125Twin) Clymer manual from 1979 recommends a 30W fork oil as a performance mod, to eliminate fork dive under braking. Could it be that the weight metric has changed throughout the years? My bike is a 1975 CB200 with a disc brake, I also went from a 2.75 front tire to a 3.25 size, what oil do you recommend to reduce the effects of added unsprung weight? Thanks.
Good question.... good video but it needs to give the oil quantities for different models or advise folks to check the manual. My manual says the 350K4 takes 105-110cc after draining so SL and 360 must have bigger forks which makes sense.
hey I'm currently having some issues wit the ignition on my 74 cb360 it's not getting any spark to the left point but there's a bright blue spark on the right point I was thinking coil which I've ordered from yalls website any way but if you could get back to me it would be much appreciated
It could be a bad condenser if you are seeing a spark at the point itself, otherwise swap the sides the coils are on to see if the spark changes to the side. It would rule out a bad coil and indicate a bad condenser or poor electrical connection.
So glad I found this video. I've been wanting to change my front fork springs to progressive springs for months. I didn't realize how easy that process would be until I saw this video. I guess when I changed my fork oil I'll put some better spring in the forks. I also didn't know how easy it was to change the fork oil. I've had the bike for a year and a half, probably time to change it. Who knows when the previous owner changed it last. Thanks Common Motor Collective!
Glad it helped!
@@Common-motor Do I need to remove the springs and if I do, why? I have VFR750, never done fork job and Im scared to take that out :)
I love you guys! :* For real though. I was wondering whether I *really* need to lift the front end (P.O. took centre stand off, makes me crazy) or if I could do one side at a time. Figured you guys would know. Low and behold, yup. Always practical, super useful info. Much thanks!
This does not work with the 350k4 because the cap is captive to the spring, and the spring is captive to the fork. Once I undid the cap I sat forward on the bike to get the cap and spring to protrude through the top of the fork and then syringed the oil in past the spring. That worked fine.
Quick tip for anyone looking to grab a graduated cylinder go to any beauty supply in your area and they are cheap. They might not be as large but it'll do the trick. Just throwing that out there. Oh yeah. Thanks Common Motor for being kickass!
Thanks for sharing your time in this video I have a 1981 Honda cb650c
so I appreciate it a lot thanks again have a wonderful day hasta la vista 👍🏻
franco chato I have an 80 cb650 with the fork bolt that is a hex. So easy!
David Hart thanks for responding back
I really like all your videos very very helpful thank you for sharing 👌🏻
Thanks for teh video. It occurred to me that maybe by taking the spring out to help get the oil out, maybe the air compressor could be used to help push all the oil out.
I'm restoring a 1972 Honda Sl100 I found leaning up against the side of a barn- one fork was completely full of water and the barn side one was full of green sludge. The fork situation looks pretty much the same as this one, so this video would have really helped. I should have watched it first. Here's why: I read the shop manual, which is horribly unspecific and decided to drain both sides simultaneously to save time. It did not. I pushed down to work the forks and the forks were so old and rusty that they stuck in the completely down position. I had to have a friend stand on a shovel through the wheel while I yanked up with all my might to get it loose. Then she had to hold it up while I managed to get a cap on one side so it could keep itself up. Then I alternated removing caps and filling each side with oil like the kind gentleman in the video specifies. That's definitely a lesson I only had to learn once. But, it made for some laughs and then we drank beer.
Haha! Oh man the stories about the stupid things we've all done working on our motorcycles are the best. The beer, laughs and knowledge gained for next time is always worth it though!
Im restoring a 550 that was found in similar circumstances,been siting outside since the 80s,I'm doing a total restoration,i pulled the forks completely apart,the stuff that was in there could probably be used as a weapon of mass destruction and it stunk to high heavens,lol , pulled everything apart, washed in a sink with pine sol and ran paper towels thru everything till they came out white,waiting on seals and fork covers,fun project.
Great explanation thanks!
Looks like it will work for the CB400f too. Thanks for the video.
Yes indeed!
I have a 1976 1HONDA CB360T Please let know know
How much fork oil takes,
And the oil weight please?
Please help
Thank you
I know this is an old video but thought I might try to see if I get a response. I am following the instructions but when I try to undo the top fork nut it just spins! It was very tight but eventually got it to start turning but it just stays pretty tight keeps turning? Any idea what is happening?
Take both caps off and remove drain plugs one at a time and work the forks up and down pumping out the oil one at a time. The forks will collapse all the way down. Your springs will now be sticking up about five inches. I made a funnel out of a large syringe i had for mixing two cycle gas. I removed the plunger and used it for a funnel with a four inch piece of 1/4" poly tube attached to it. Squeeze the poly tube in beside the spring and add oil. I pumped that out just to clean it out and added my oil back in for keeps. Put a small bottle jack under the front on the motor and jacked it up just a enough to get the front wheel off of the ground, The springs go right back down in the fork and all you have to do is tighten the caps. Easy! Pessy!
Working on my new to me 73 CB350G. Got to the step where I need to pull the spring out. The top cap appears to be attached to the damper rod. Not sure how to proceed because the spring and cap are in the way to add fluid. Pump it in from below like a transmission?!? First time I've hit a snag following your awesome videos.
Take both caps off and remove drain plugs one at a time and work the forks up and down pumping out the oil one at a time. The forks will collapse all the way down. Your springs will now be sticking up about five inches. I made a funnel out of a large syringe i had for mixing two cycle gas. I removed the plunger and used it for a funnel with a four inch piece of 1/4" poly tube attached to it. Squeeze the poly tube in beside the spring and add oil. I pumped that out just to clean it out and added my oil back in for keeps. Put a small bottle jack under the front on the motor and jacked it up just a enough to get the front wheel off of the ground, The springs go right back down in the fork and all you have to do is tighten the caps. Easy! Pessy! 😎
Thank You for the Demos!
Ill try this with a cbrf3
On my CB350F once I completely loosened the "top plug" it's attached or stuck to the spring. I was able to sneak fresh oil in from the side, through the spring and thread it back down, but what's going on? Looks the same as your arrangement
Anyone know how much each fork takes on yzfr125 2016 plate in ml
The CB200 (/CB175/160/125Twin) Clymer manual from 1979 recommends a 30W fork oil as a performance mod, to eliminate fork dive under braking. Could it be that the weight metric has changed throughout the years? My bike is a 1975 CB200 with a disc brake, I also went from a 2.75 front tire to a 3.25 size, what oil do you recommend to reduce the effects of added unsprung weight? Thanks.
Awesome vid! Did your bike forks originally have those accordion boots on them? If so, can I just cut those off?
Following your procedure... how much oil goes in the cb350k4 (1972) - Some manuals state 110cc others state much much more... Please advise. Thanks.
Good question.... good video but it needs to give the oil quantities for different models or advise folks to check the manual. My manual says the 350K4 takes 105-110cc after draining so SL and 360 must have bigger forks which makes sense.
@@terryfraser7259 Thanks but I did solve the problem 3 years ago...
@@moeenzachariah lol
hey I'm currently having some issues wit the ignition on my 74 cb360 it's not getting any spark to the left point but there's a bright blue spark on the right point I was thinking coil which I've ordered from yalls website any way but if you could get back to me it would be much appreciated
It could be a bad condenser if you are seeing a spark at the point itself, otherwise swap the sides the coils are on to see if the spark changes to the side. It would rule out a bad coil and indicate a bad condenser or poor electrical connection.
Thank you!!!