Cub Cadet 127 Narrow Frame Hydro Drive Shaft Maintenance
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ค. 2024
- Here's how I replace the engine-to-drive-shaft coupler and dowel pin on most any narrow frame Hydrostatic Drive Cub Cadet. I also show a change I made to make it easier, Towards the end, I show my "Cub Cadet Grease Rack", which gets my Cubs two feet off the ground so I don't have to bend over to work on them.
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Thanks! I have a 127 (1971) that has a messed up driveshaft. I keep thinking that a conversion to the newer type used on the 2500 series(with the urethane slugs as a sort of CV joint) would be a better fix, but still thinking of options.
That rear pin is a pain to replace. I hook the front of my tractor to a come along and stand it straight up on its rear end. Much easier to access the bottom. That trick I learned from working on forklifts many years ago.
if you remove hydro oil filter you can access rag connector from the bottom much easier
I have a 1969 Cub Cadet 125 (12 hp hydrostatic) that was purchased new in the family back in September, 1969. I'm going to use your guidance to cut a hole in the same place on mine to get to the shaft for future maintenance. The idea of having an maintenance and inspection cover is so logical, but I never did it (I thought about but you did it so your guidance is great!) Have you drilled a hole for a lubrication point for the front axle? That's on my list of things to do as well! I also have a 1970 Cub Cadet 147 (built in December, 1969) which as you know has very similar maintenance points... Good machines, eh?
Thank you for your kind words.
Re: Have you drilled a hole for a lubrication point for the front axle?
No, but I have squirted oil at that area a few times. And now that I think about it, at least one of my Cub Cadets does have a grease zerk up there somewhere.
I currently have my 127 apart because the grass screen on the engine came loose and was rubbing against the housing resulting in sparks. I pulled the front end off as you mentioned at 7:00 thinking I would be able to slide the engine forward enough to get the shaft off of the coupler. As it turns out, the oil pan hangs below the frame and hit the front of the frame before I was able to get enough room to get the shaft out. I ended up lifting the engine and completely removing it. I found your video while trying to decide what to do the the enlarged hole in the hydro shaft. I suppose a complete replacement would be the best option, but I am trying to find a cheaper alternative. Thank you for the great information.
Re: "hole in the hydro shaft"---
If you mean the shaft the sticks out of the hydro unit itself, Maybe you could drill it and its coupler (called the "Arm Coupling 759-3009") out to 5/16 and use a 5/16 grade 8 bolt instead of that darn spring pin. Even if you don't do that, I have simply stuck a 1/4" grade 8 bolt (with nut) in there and it has lasted for years.
@@frenchcreekvalley No sorry. I am talking about the hydro drive shaft and coupler at the engine, the same parts you are working on. At some point in my 127's life, the pin was replaced with a bolt that was most likely a bit undersized allowing movement causing the hole in the shaft to to get really worn out.
@@mdmowrey 2 thoughts:
- drill a new hole in the shaft, just behind the existing hole (toward the rear of the tractor) and at right angles to it.
I THINK there'll be just enough engagement with the driver for that to work with a new pin or bolt.
-Weld the worn hole in the shaft up and re-drill/ream it for a new pin.
It probably took 20 or 30 years for the hole to wear as much as it did, so I don't think you will have to worry about re-occurence for a while.
@@frenchcreekvalley I finally got my 127 all back together today. I ended up welding the worn hole to fill it in and re-drilled the shaft at 90 degrees for a new spring pin. Now if I could only figure out where this one bolt that I have left over goes... 🤔
Thank you. I got a Cub 127 and I am just tearing into it. I have been using it for 3 years already. Thank you. Can the sleeve be welded and filled and re-cut?
If you are asking about the front hub assembly, Drive Plate; I am pretty sure that it is case hardened. once the dowel pin eats through the case hardened surface, the pin digs in to the softer material, as you probably already knoe only too well. They cost over $60 each, new. I have 3 of the worn out ones, myself. I can get in there and mig up the worn areas. That weld will be soft enough to file, Just haven't gotten around to it yet.
I was thinking that, all one really needs to do is to drill/ream a new hole for the dowel pin , just about 3/8" back from the existing hole. Then the pin will be driven from a brand new hardened surface and be good for another 20 or 30 years.
I just bought a 129 that sheared off the coupler dowel pin at the front of the driveshaft. Is the process to replace the pin the same for a wide frame tractor?
I don't have any wide frame machines. But as far as the driveshaft, etc., goes, those parts look pretty much the same.
You can go here to see exploded view drawings:
www.partstree.com/parts/cub-cadet/mowers-lawn-garden-tractor/129-2050046u-2050220u-2050221u-2050222u-2050223u-cub-cadet-garden-tractor/transmission-case-diff-hydro-drive-rel-parts/
Great, thank you!
My 127 has a grade 5 1/4 in bolt to replace the pin. Been running that way 3 years. I tried a grade 8 bolt but it kept snapping off
Just picked up a cub cadet 123 hydro, has no engine, anyone got any hot tips on repower options?
301 parts stiil around the valves and bore wear rest will be ok
here i thought i had something ahhahahaa with this type of table... old guy bet me to it hahahha great minds think alike i guess
People cut and modify these but I hate to see that . These are antiques and should be preserved and rebuilt stock
I appreciate your point of view, but, with 6 or more hours of mowing each week around here, getting the lawn care done is my top priority. These things still only bring a few hundred dollars apiece, in worn out condition at a local online auction house, so I don't see then as "rare birds" at this point.
@@frenchcreekvalley I know what you mean. I only became familiar with vintage cub cadets about 1 year ago but I see tremendous value in these machines because they can plow snow and pull a heavy garden trailer while also being very inexpensive to maintain. In my mind, people are not going to be eager to spend $10k on a zero turn mower when the economy crashes or even maintain those mowers when it costs them a few thousand to put a new engine on them or replace hydro pumps. I'm just a fan of everything "old school" and simple. NO COMPUTERS ! Even though you might think your machine is a bit difficult to fix, it's really a repair that you do once every 20 years. So if you take some time and take the entire machine apart and replace every seal and every worn linkage, you might spend a few hundred dollars but you'll be good for the next 30 years . How great is that ?! They just aren't building them like these cubs anymore. So it's like this, do you want to drive a '65 chevy $10k or do you want to drive a $85k Tesla ? And which are you going to enjoy and which is going to cost you less in the long run ?
whew....Quitelines are much easier .