One thing I would add is to put on scope covers so you don't get solvent onto the lenses as it could damage the coatings (tip from modern day rifleman's cleaning process). Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the video, after watching it I bought the C4 carbon remover and did it to my Bergara i have before and after pictures the difference is amazing My Vudoo is new I don’t I have 500 rounds yet I am very close, I used my bore camera and is not bad at all yet
Good video. I have a V22 360 on order so these videos are helpful. My only comment would be that when scrubbing the inside of the action, you have to be cognizant of the possibility that dirt may be pushed down into the trigger mechanism if you are not very careful. I've had these issues also with cleaning solvents inadvertently entering the trigger mechanism when cleaning, which then led to trigger failures. If you can block (e.g., tape) that entry point inside the bolt or remove the trigger itself to separately clean it, you will avoid these issues.
When cleaning the barrel we use a bore guide that blocks off the trigger. For soaking the chamber like Greg showed, you could cover the trigger or be careful to not have a dripping wet brush.
That was my first question after seeing the Vudoo video on cleaning from some time ago. This guidance is significantly different from that one about cleaning the bore. The Rimfire blend is pictured, but evidently not used, nor is there any mention of the nylon brush. To say I'm confused is an understatement. To be blunt, this video raises more questions than it answers.
Is not necessary lubricate the barrel after carbon remove patches? Or is only necessary if you use the rimfire blend ? Thanks!! The best video in all TH-cam maybe!!
I notice that you don’t use a bronze brush. Do you clean the lead out at all, and if so, do you use a bronze brush? What solvent do you use to clean out the lead?
No, it's not enough. As the great Erik Cortina says "I can keep it consistently clean but I can't keep it consistently dirty". This is not the proper way to "clean" a barrel.
@@Dubbin1 it’s actually not. Match rimfire ammo is designed with lubricant on the bullet that is meant to coat the rifling. It is well known among top class rimfire shooters that barrels shoot better with some lead and bullet lube coating in the rifling. We refer to it as seasoning. Here we’re trying to clean the carbon ring out of the chamber while leaving the lead and bullet lube fouling in the rifling portion of the bore. Many top level rimfire shooters will go well over 10,000 rounds before cleaning their rifling. This is the cleaning method Vudoo recommends after working with both Bore Tech and Lapua. In testing, we find that rimfire barrels don’t show their best accuracy until over 1,000 rounds of seasoning where we don’t clean the rifling. In centerfire you have much higher pressure and are dealing with copper which is much harder and acts different in the barrel in numerous ways. It is a completely different animal.
I noticed several people ask about the BoreTech Rimfire Blend but no answer. So do you recommend not using the Rimfire Blend to clean the barrel at all? I've watched a few of your videos talking about not removing the "seasoning" in the barrel. Will the Rimfire blend do this and that's why you don't use it? Was confused like others why it is shown on the table but not used.
Hi great video. Just purchased Bergara b14r and although it’s not voodoo money still a big investment and really want to take care of it. Just a little kick in the pants as all the stuff you recommend with shipping comes to 280.00 from Boretech. I guess it’s worth it to protect your investment. One question is the pistol rod you use that’s fixed handle is this one the same from Boretech. Rather just place one order from one place “ the V stick” is this one fixed and since I just got rifle would you recommend Rimfire cleaner between different brands of ammo till I find out what rifle really likes and than stick with one ammo and just use the carbon cleaner to leave the “ good residue “ in barrel. Thxs. Hoping you’ll reply before I ask Boretech so I can order stuff today. Thxs
I use the pistol rod with the fixed handle because I have it in my toolbox. You can use a regular rifle rod with a ball bearing handle and grab the rod portion to spin... it’s just harder to grip. I wouldn’t bother with the rimfire blend between ammo types. I use it when the rifle starts to lose accuracy with the cleaning method here which is several thousand rounds. Run a mag or two of fouling rounds each time you switch ammo brands. Just don’t shoot any high velocity copper coated ammo or you’ll have one more type of material in your barrel. Quality rod, bore guide, C4 and proper size jags/brushes are the bare minimum I’d suggest buying.
I always remove the gen 2 firing control group with a punch through the little hole on top. This makes removing the pin a breeze. You mention in the video that the flat should be aligned - mine is when I put in the rifle and take out of the rifle but there is definitely a little play in it that I can move with my fingers. Is this correct or should there be no play whatsoever?
@@sekaf4125 I sent an email to them for some more clarification. I might send my bolt in for inspection. Do you know which video. He has a few bolt videos.
Spoke with Vudoo. What amazing customer service. The firing control system does have a little play left and right. So my bolt is perfectly normal. Also Paul seems to have subhuman hand strength and most people use a punch on the top to open the Gen 2 and 360 bolts. Lol.
Why would you completely soak the bolt in oil like that? I was always told that when you do that it just attracts more dirt and grit. It could and probably will also get down in the trigger which does the same, I've also never seen it recommended to add oil to the spring and striker like this as it should always be dry or at the very least wiped off with a rag if you did add oil. The only thing I have ever heard people putting on a bolt action rifles bolt is a little grease on the lugs and where the handle latches. Otherwise a bolt doesn't reciprocate fast like an AR15 Bolt carrier group. It simply locks in place while firing then you cock and cycle the bolt to charge another round into the chamber. Now obviously if you are noticing wear on the bolt you could add a little drop of oil on any parts that are wearing but otherwise I don't understand why a professional shooter would tell people to oil a bolt action bolt down like this. Lucas gun oil owes you some shares in stock if every new owner oils their guns down like in this video lmao. Thanks for sharing in all seriousness.
Depends on the brand. A good rule is NOT to use a standard .22 cal rod (designed for .223). If brand has a dedicated 22 “rimfire” rod, it’ll be good to go. (E.g., Boretech). If not, go .20 cal. (E.g., Dewey)
I just ordered a .20 cal Montana xtreme rod and jags, I ordered the Boretech guide rod from Vudoo, I don't want to be "that guy" that does more damage to the rifle using improper cleaning techniques versus just shooting it
One thing I would add is to put on scope covers so you don't get solvent onto the lenses as it could damage the coatings (tip from modern day rifleman's cleaning process). Thanks for the video!
How often do you recommend cleaning the rifle after all the break in is completed?
Thanks for the video, after watching it I bought the C4 carbon remover and did it to my Bergara i have before and after pictures the difference is amazing
My Vudoo is new I don’t I have 500 rounds yet I am very close, I used my bore camera and is not bad at all yet
Good video. I have a V22 360 on order so these videos are helpful. My only comment would be that when scrubbing the inside of the action, you have to be cognizant of the possibility that dirt may be pushed down into the trigger mechanism if you are not very careful. I've had these issues also with cleaning solvents inadvertently entering the trigger mechanism when cleaning, which then led to trigger failures. If you can block (e.g., tape) that entry point inside the bolt or remove the trigger itself to separately clean it, you will avoid these issues.
When cleaning the barrel we use a bore guide that blocks off the trigger. For soaking the chamber like Greg showed, you could cover the trigger or be careful to not have a dripping wet brush.
Very informative video, I don't have a Vodoo but will use this info on my Bergara, thanks
So at what point do you use the rim fire blend and nylon brush down the tube of your barrel ???
That was my first question after seeing the Vudoo video on cleaning from some time ago. This guidance is significantly different from that one about cleaning the bore. The Rimfire blend is pictured, but evidently not used, nor is there any mention of the nylon brush. To say I'm confused is an understatement. To be blunt, this video raises more questions than it answers.
Brilliant video best one yet by far. As I'm about to clean my own Vudoo for the first time.
Great video, Question when we should clean the barrel with a rimfire blend ? after 1,500 first shoots , how often?
Thank you for the good information.
Is not necessary lubricate the barrel after carbon remove patches?
Or is only necessary if you use the rimfire blend ?
Thanks!! The best video in all TH-cam maybe!!
I see you have the Rimfire blend also. Do you prefer the M4 better than the RF blend?
Good bacteria (lead) and bad bacteria (carbon), great analogy. So when, if ever do you remove the lead? When accuracy falls off?
No such thing as good fouling. Fouling = accuracy loss.
Excellent tutorial!!!!
great job as always Greg
man ive been waiting for this video for so long, thanks for putting it up
Can you add links to the items you used ?
Is it dishwasher proof? Thanks.
I notice that you don’t use a bronze brush. Do you clean the lead out at all, and if so, do you use a bronze brush? What solvent do you use to clean out the lead?
Why don't you use a bronze brush for the barrel?
After 500 rounds, I’ve had to run 15 to 20 patches before they come out clean. Is 3 or 4 really enough ?
No, it's not enough. As the great Erik Cortina says "I can keep it consistently clean but I can't keep it consistently dirty". This is not the proper way to "clean" a barrel.
When trying to remove a carbon ring from the chamber and not the lead/bullet lube from the rifling, It's all that's needed with the proper method.
@@Dubbin1 Erik Cortina is talking about centerfire... Rimfire is a different world.
@@The_Rimfire_Impact It's the same concept...
@@Dubbin1 it’s actually not. Match rimfire ammo is designed with lubricant on the bullet that is meant to coat the rifling. It is well known among top class rimfire shooters that barrels shoot better with some lead and bullet lube coating in the rifling. We refer to it as seasoning. Here we’re trying to clean the carbon ring out of the chamber while leaving the lead and bullet lube fouling in the rifling portion of the bore. Many top level rimfire shooters will go well over 10,000 rounds before cleaning their rifling. This is the cleaning method Vudoo recommends after working with both Bore Tech and Lapua. In testing, we find that rimfire barrels don’t show their best accuracy until over 1,000 rounds of seasoning where we don’t clean the rifling.
In centerfire you have much higher pressure and are dealing with copper which is much harder and acts different in the barrel in numerous ways. It is a completely different animal.
I noticed several people ask about the BoreTech Rimfire Blend but no answer. So do you recommend not using the Rimfire Blend to clean the barrel at all? I've watched a few of your videos talking about not removing the "seasoning" in the barrel. Will the Rimfire blend do this and that's why you don't use it? Was confused like others why it is shown on the table but not used.
Hi great video. Just purchased Bergara b14r and although it’s not voodoo money still a big investment and really want to take care of it. Just a little kick in the pants as all the stuff you recommend with shipping comes to 280.00 from Boretech. I guess it’s worth it to protect your investment. One question is the pistol rod you use that’s fixed handle is this one the same from Boretech. Rather just place one order from one place “ the V stick” is this one fixed and since I just got rifle would you recommend Rimfire cleaner between different brands of ammo till I find out what rifle really likes and than stick with one ammo and just use the carbon cleaner to leave the “ good residue “ in barrel. Thxs. Hoping you’ll reply before I ask Boretech so I can order stuff today. Thxs
I use the pistol rod with the fixed handle because I have it in my toolbox. You can use a regular rifle rod with a ball bearing handle and grab the rod portion to spin... it’s just harder to grip. I wouldn’t bother with the rimfire blend between ammo types. I use it when the rifle starts to lose accuracy with the cleaning method here which is several thousand rounds. Run a mag or two of fouling rounds each time you switch ammo brands. Just don’t shoot any high velocity copper coated ammo or you’ll have one more type of material in your barrel. Quality rod, bore guide, C4 and proper size jags/brushes are the bare minimum I’d suggest buying.
@@The_Rimfire_Impact ok sounds great Thxs so much for info
I always remove the gen 2 firing control group with a punch through the little hole on top. This makes removing the pin a breeze. You mention in the video that the flat should be aligned - mine is when I put in the rifle and take out of the rifle but there is definitely a little play in it that I can move with my fingers. Is this correct or should there be no play whatsoever?
❤️I was told by Mike Bush no play. He shows how in the bolt video
@@sekaf4125 I sent an email to them for some more clarification. I might send my bolt in for inspection. Do you know which video. He has a few bolt videos.
Spoke with Vudoo. What amazing customer service. The firing control system does have a little play left and right. So my bolt is perfectly normal. Also Paul seems to have subhuman hand strength and most people use a punch on the top to open the Gen 2 and 360 bolts. Lol.
Now that is how to do a cleaning video:)
100 different videos get 100 different ways to clean, no bronze brush 50% of the time while the rest brush away. Insanity
i mean you're still dragging that metal end of the rod across the crown.
Why would you completely soak the bolt in oil like that? I was always told that when you do that it just attracts more dirt and grit. It could and probably will also get down in the trigger which does the same, I've also never seen it recommended to add oil to the spring and striker like this as it should always be dry or at the very least wiped off with a rag if you did add oil. The only thing I have ever heard people putting on a bolt action rifles bolt is a little grease on the lugs and where the handle latches. Otherwise a bolt doesn't reciprocate fast like an AR15 Bolt carrier group. It simply locks in place while firing then you cock and cycle the bolt to charge another round into the chamber. Now obviously if you are noticing wear on the bolt you could add a little drop of oil on any parts that are wearing but otherwise I don't understand why a professional shooter would tell people to oil a bolt action bolt down like this. Lucas gun oil owes you some shares in stock if every new owner oils their guns down like in this video lmao. Thanks for sharing in all seriousness.
Lots of people say to use a .17 cal or .20 cal cleaning rod since a .22 cal might scrap the inside of the barrel. Any truth to this?
Depends on the brand. A good rule is NOT to use a standard .22 cal rod (designed for .223). If brand has a dedicated 22 “rimfire” rod, it’ll be good to go. (E.g., Boretech). If not, go .20 cal. (E.g., Dewey)
I just ordered a .20 cal Montana xtreme rod and jags, I ordered the Boretech guide rod from Vudoo, I don't want to be "that guy" that does more damage to the rifle using improper cleaning techniques versus just shooting it
I use the tipton carbon fiber one piece 17-20 rod it is awesome.
I would never spin a brush in the chamber. That’s asking for trouble
100% true with a wire brush. The nylon brush isn't so harsh.