I have added those to 2 different boats over the years. It does scrub a little from the top as you showed but the help with planing quicker is where it shines.
I’m running one on my 50hp on my 16 Klamath. Made a huge difference. For one your bolts are in upside down. I also trimmed mine after to reduce drag even more. Secondly, it would appear you have zero clue what trim is. With a fin your trim position is going to be different. In my boat it’s way more stable and corners better because it’s a hard v-nose light weight aluminum boat. Secondly with 5 people and gear I’m up out of the water and on step in 2 seconds. Lastly my top speed was about 24 without it and I’ve been as high as 32 with the fin. Again, learn what trim is and how to use it. I’d wager a guess you also have you’re outboard mounted to low or even too high maybe. It’s important that where the fin mounts to is in line with the bottom of your boat or slightly above. An by slightly I mean less than 1/8 inch. An yes, running a speed prop is going to change a lot as well.
You want them to go in from the bottom up through the hole to reduce drag. I also like it that way because I can see the threads and I will notice if it’s coming loose.
I had the same "tail-heavy" concerns putting a 4-stroke 20hp on my 12 foot aluminum. The boat was rated for up to 20hp but it was also made back when lighter 2-strokes were the norm. I had a local shop make me up some bolt-on pods for the stern. Added a foot to the length and now it sits fine with the 4-stroke and even gets on a plane easier when I have the 9.9hp on.
Now to play with trim settings and props. Its a balancing act to get it all working in concert. You may also need to better tune the cutout to get the motor deeper into the water. Get it all dialed in and you could double your fuel efficiency. That last few MPH usually comes at the cost of the largest loss of MPG. Simpson rules still apply to increases in speed in relation to fuel usage on planing or semi-planing hulls so for best fuel efficiency you usually want to cruise at the lowest throttle setting that will keep you on plane which should be somewhere between a bit over half to two thirds throttle. Back in the late 50's we could plane a 17.5 foot mahogany plywood semi-vee with a 35 horse Evinrude Big Twin and run all day on 12 gallons of fuel with the correct prop pitch and trim setting if we watched our throttle setting. Chine Lock and Skipping in a turn can be dangerous since you might not only toss an occupant but also flip a boat over sideways so play it safe. If your combination is prone to Chine Locking and the foil helps relieve that then indeed keep it and make the boat safer. Best!
Pretty good video dude. I have one of those exact ones on my 20’ open bow. I haven’t checked to see if it slows down my boat, but in rough water, it really helps with controlling the boat!
I put that same hydrofoil on my 14 1/2 foot StarCraft John boat with a 25 Yamaha. Made a world a difference. It was nearly uncontrollable without it and it would porpoise uncontrollably. Now it drives like a new boat. It’s an amazing transformation.
WOT should be around 5600 you should drop a pich in the prop. As well as I didn't see you trim up at all after on plain you should trim up a little bit just hold the trim up button for second and you will feel the backend rise up.
You need a power trim and tilt to provide the proper attack angle. It works really well with a hydrofoil. Finding a proper attack angle will cause your boat to go faster without increasing the throttle.
@@SmallCraftCruising please accept my apologies. I watched your video again and saw your hydraulic trim and tilt. I have the SE 300 and l love it. But one day I was out and found that adjusting my motor upwards from the throttle handle while cruising caused my bow to rise and my speed to increase. I believe this improves fuel efficiency. This hydrofoil drastically improved my ability to raise or lower my bow to find the sweet spot of fuel efficiency. Also, I love this ability to raise my bow up when going against larger wind generated waves. Like you said I also love that it very much improved overall stability. Very respectfully, Ryan
Put one of these on a 74" Glassmaster tri hull powered by a 60 hp 2stoke mercury. Pulled over to a cove after 20 mins and took it off. Made the boat lose 5 mph from top speed and it rode around everywhere with the bow way in the air. Some of the worse money I ever spent.
Having the bow way in the air and losing speed means you either have the motor trimmed wrong or you have the motor too deep in the water. Probably both in this case.
For all the people saying you need to go down a pitch on your prop, I think you also need to go up in power. If you're not willing to go up a weight class, look for the highest HP that's within 50 pounds of your current motor's weight. If you ARE willing to go up a weight class, or even TWO, you can get a 60-115HP modern engine, or you can stay pretty light with an old-school 2-stroke 90hp or so 3-cylinder. Do you need anything over 90? No, not unless you're a true speed demon, then you go 115-175. But 60-90 will do you DAMN good, and IMO you need AT LEAST a 40 on that boat for it to get out of its own way. Most of the realistic issues with motors are weight, though, so if you find that 40s, 50s and 60s all weigh the same, then there's no sense going for the 40 when you can run a 60, have power to spare for more weight, run at a lower RPM for planing cruise at the same or potentially better fuel efficiency, AND have more "clout" for running a bigger motor. And if you're worried about cops, a 60 won't look out of place and a 90 might get a chin scratch or two. Either way, you can register the boat differently so there won't be issues, and/or you can just put a smaller sticker on it, as long as it's relatively believable. (Nobody will believe a 90hp sized cowl is only covering 15hp or 25hp, but they might believe a 90 is a 60 or a 60 is a 40)
at the time of purchasing the motor, the highest HP in a 15" shaft was 25.. i really wanted 30-35, but was simply not available.. and yes, that motor is much too heavy for that boat.. I will need to find another solution
@@SmallCraftCruising Ehhh, if you're willing to add to/modify your transom you could add the 5 inches of height to it you'd need to run a 20" shaft motor. Then you could swap that 25 for a DF60A if you want to keep it Suzuki and want to keep it modern. Yeah, it's 80 pounds heavier. But that's a large dog, or 2/3 of a woman. Which might equate to another 2 inches of draft, tops. Your boat doesn't sag nearly enough in the water with a 25 as you feel it does, and even if that was considered bad sag, you can fix that as a part of your transom mods by adding some pour foam. Once you combine the massive power gain with a 4-bladed prop and using a hydrofoil on the new motor, everything will equal out. At worst, you'd have to add a little front ballast, but IDK what your fuel tank situation is. Then again, if you're happy being slow and unmodified, more power to you. If you want to go at least a little fast and have much better performance with 3 or 4 passengers, then do some research and delve into modding. If you're still worried about the weights, older 2-strokes in the 40-60hp range are mostly all under 200 pounds. You could even mod those to make them more powerful, still. A race-prepped 40 probably makes closer to 60 and still only weighs 180 pounds, all without being THAT out of whack so as to be unreliable or whatever. Just 30 pounds more for over double your current power.
@@Drunken_Hamster the boat was originally rated for something like 40-50 horsepower, but the problem is, is the transom is close enough to the water as is that small wind waves have come over the back and threatened to sink the boat.. skinny of it is, is the boat is too small.. also, the 25 can get this up to 30 mph which is scary fast for that tiny hull.. i would not want to be able to go much faster TBH.. i am trying to find a 14-15' of a similiar year, and then put a 50 hp on it instead
It’s been my experience that using a four blade prop will really cut down the fishtailing and greatly reduce the sliding in turns while giving you a tighter turn radius and get you on plane faster. You may lose a little on top speed but you will definitely have a safer boating experience.
Hydrofoil adds a lot of stability to a boat and are well worth it, but it takes a couple of miles per hour of your top end. Try this: add 1” or 1.5” spacers to rise your hydrofoil off of your anti-cavitation plate. This should give you back your top end speed if that’s important to you. Make sure your spacers are at least 5/8 diameter, so it distributes the force against the anti-cavitation plate.
Good for you you took an older hull and repowered it with a great little motor, I hope you spent the cash and did get power trim and the short lower end. If so with the engine propped correctly and engine height correct that boat should be doing a lot better than it is. I wish you had taken some nice long shots of the water spray at the transom with and without the foil. If you are keeping the boat and want more versatility at different altitudes get a jack plate and use the more coarse prop . Don't bother if you don't have power trim.
I used my 'biggest' prop at over 4000 elevation, and I should have gone down a size or two before filming. Did not think of it until i was on the water, and since it was not exactly central to the video since the foil would drag (or not drag) regardless of the prop, i did not swap them. yes, it has power trim, and i did a top speed run at a lake near sea level and found 31 MPH at 5600 RPM (with this same prop) you can see that video in my profile under "Top Speed Run on Classic Boat" and yes, i am trying to get better shots of the boat. I need an assistant to help film..
I noticed that you were not triming out the motor while underway and mentioned nothing about trim. Also have you tried to change engine height before adding a foil ? Your cavitation plate while underway should be at the top of the water pretty much. Reason why I say this is that people add a foil for no reason because they don't know how to use trim and your engine height is wrong :) you want to exhaust all options before just throwing on a foil or a 4 blade prop, foil is more drag and 4 blade prop is less efficient and slower
Talking about drag, wouldn't you have less drag if you used carage style bolts with the smooth side down and shouldnt the foil and anticavitation plate be out of the water at top end? Check your height, keep the foil but get it just out of the water at WOT with adjusting engine height.
A few things. As everyone said that's not a hydrofoil it's really designed to help get your boat on plane and not plow water,. works great for small motors like a 3.0 Merc. on small ski boats like a Bayliner. 27mph with a 25hp 4 stroke seems fine to me. What I really wanted to see was playing with the trim to help air out the boat to see if you can find more top end. Have fun with it and wear your life jacket.
I had the same experience with a 16' Aluminum Lund with a 50hp Johnson. With the hydrofoil, can get the boat up on plane quicker even when heavily loaded, can turn sharper without cavitation, it makes the boat "fee" bigger" and more stable. Because it is a wing in the water it does reduce the top speed slightly, but for me that is more than offset by the other advantages. I consider it well worth it.
Slower with the foil. More drag. Raise the motor up for more speed. Lower for more foil induced control. Prop could be shorter pitch for more wot rpm. Chk motor spec.
I put that same Hydrofoil on my 19 foot bow rider. Yes it does slow you down . I also have a 4 fin prop witch I put on. The boat planes much nicer and had a awesome hole shot with and without skiers. I save on fuel by plane at slower speeds. With just one small person or persons in the bow it plane’s really nice and slow. That’s what I wanted when I put it on. They make a nice slow plane with a foil on. There not for speed. In my opinion. Thank you for the video.
I like your video's a lot!! So thanks for the effort. The quality may not be the best, but the subjects, and the way you share the information in a detailed way is great! ( like what rpm does for the speed, and when it starts plaining) Maybe you could make another video about the diffrent props you told about, (Or try a 4 blade?) In short: Keep it up, and i look forward for more!!!
thank you! yes, i would love to increase the quality, but I am mostly one person doing this, so I do what I can with what I have.. but sure, I will do another video with the effects of different props
If you're losing top speed it's because your outboard is mounted too low. Raise it up to get the hydrofoil to skim on top of the water at top speed and you'll get the pros without losing top end... I have the exact same hydrofoil on mine and keep it for slower planning speed. Not losing any top speed since the outboard was raised to it's most efficient position...
100 percent agree on this! I added an SE Sport 200 to my 20' bass boat and by adjusting my jack plate to raise the motor, my boat would jump right up on plane at a much lower RPM and speed, like it was going over a curb, and never lost top speed.
This is what I’m hoping for. I have a 12’ flat bottom jon with a Suzuki 9.9EFI 4-stroke. First mount and it was dragging and the cav plate was under water. Couldn’t reach full RPM and had a hard time planing unless someone was sitting on the bow to keep it down. I added a jack plate and played with the mounting holes. Went higher and higher until it would blow out and dropped it back down. Now I can plane easier and get the WOT RPMs right, but since it’s a 9.9 I don’t have power trim. The only way to plane out is to have it all the way down, but this causes porpoising at top speed. I’m thinking adding a foil and setting the trim to the middle setting might be the cure. Won’t need to be fully trimmed down to plane and should be a flat running surface at speed. So many damn factors on tiny boats. Life was much easier on my 22’ Key West Center Console with a 200hp Yamaha and hydraulic trim tabs.
Thank you for posting your hydrofoil results…I had a Volvo drive with out one…and recently a cobra drive with one or a copy…not sure. My main concern is some big prop nicks and some pieces broken off the leading edges of the drive…caused by a previous user. As we all know cavitation from prop or drive is like putting your tranny in neutral…especially on hard turns…looks like the foil acts to shield prop suction during tight turns…as you demonstrated…I plan to epoxy and clean up the drive leading edges…and most likely replace the rock chewing prop.
Addes one to my 14', 40hp rig, planes instantly, gained top speed, have infinite control over trim with small touches of button. Best addition I have done on my boat.
Made one for my 10 foot inflatable..with a 9.9 .. .. I liked the fact that it slowed down the back of the boat from rising out of the water ,when navigating large waves … helped keep my prop in he water …and got up on plain twice as fast ….. could cruise along at about 24 mph .. before the I’d only get maybe 18 ……. I made mine out of a I/4 inch plastic plate ..20/20 inch .. drilled 4 holes …. Cost me the price of the bolts ….
If you wanna turn and get better bite. And lift at low speed You have power trim. Just tuck the motor in a bit. No need for the whale tail thats my opinion. I run a 30hp mariner on a 16x42 trim makes all the difference. I can eek out 31mph if i trim up as for as i can. But i cant corner without blowout. So when i turn i just tuck in the motor about flat trim and i can turn full lock at wide open throttle no problem. Drive your boat. I use an 11 and 12 pitch props
You should get trim tabs. For that boat smart tabs would probably work, or get some electric Lenco trim tabs. BTW, sweet looking boat, reminds me of my dads Glasspar.
@@SmallCraftCruising and 9n a stern that narrow, tabs wouldn't leave you any room for your transducer. Love how these guys tell you what you should do, but they have zero idea what they are talking about. I really doubt any of them own, or have ever set up a boat. It's entertaining tbough haha! Great vid, thx again
@SmallCraftCruising Im from the netherlands and we have a lot of small canals, i have a corsiva 475 with a 15hp engine. What i found out is that the boat is easier to steer (less drifing) in tight corners, steers better when the prop is not turning. And even without electrical trim i find the rear of the boat does not dip that much in the pre-plane phase. For me its a good purchase and i agree with everything in your review. 💯
That particular is brand is hands down the best on the market... I've been running one on my bass rigs for 15 years... Been paid for many times over is saved gas. DO NOT BUY ANY of the units where you don't drill- they will not stay on your engine. Drill the1/4" bolt holes and forget about it. These SE's have a fool proof template for a perfect installation. If anyone tells you these don't work- you can bet they have never tried it. Guess that's enough said..
My father did this (although on the sides instead of the outboard) to his row-boat style boat with a 5hp outboard. Before it just raised the nose up and didn't glide but after a few screws and glass fibre panels the boat started planing and top speed almost doubled with the same engine.
You need same to go down at minimum 1 pitch in that prop 2 pitch reduction would be perfect for when you have passangers. If its speed and 1 person. Reduce 1 pitch if its overall performance go down 2 pitches or 3 i think you gain 200 or 400 rpm per drop in pitch. Read up on it. But if I'm correct i think that motors max efficient running rpm is 5600 rpm but don't quote me.
It looks as if trimflaps on the rear of the boat would do the same thing.. and if you install adjustable trimflaps, you can have a uneven loaded boat and still go straight..
Hydrofoil. It's the difference between an airfoil and an elevator on an airplane. The (hydrofoil) airfoil lifts because of the curve and the (trim tabs) elevator only deflects.
Does that Szuk have power trim? Trim er up some when you get on plane. Also you might be able to raise the motor up some if your motor has additional mounting holes. You want the anti ventilation plate about even with or just a tad bit above the bottom of the boat. That way the fin would be just above and not really touching the surface of the water when on plane, eliminating it's drag, but should still work at lower speeds. Just my thoughts.
Idk what prop he has....but it's too much pitch ....that boat needs no more than 11 pitch that will get you to the top of the Rev range and better lift at low rpm. (Up on plane at a lower speed so you can cruise more efficient.
For these to be effective, you must lower your motor mounting height so the hydrofoil is below the hull line in “clean” water. Only then will you feel the dramatic results. And be prepared. A little trim adjustment goes a long way. You can absolutely porpoise your bow into a wave as easily as you can get it airborne.
I haven’t watched a second of this video, but i can tell you those foils work a treat. Not only got my boat on the plane almost instantly (4.3m heavy duty aluminium with 60HP 4 stroke), but the handling also went from twitchy to solid as a rock. Highly recommend.
These engines have so many different applications it would be stupid to come with them. Some boats benefit from them, others only have a negative impact. A fun would be useless if this motor was on a pontoon or work barge or if being used as a kicker motor or on a sailboat.
I don't understand why the engine manufacturers don't just form the anti-cavitation plate in this configuration if they work so well. Seems like it would be better than an aftermarket add-on.
You should look into a Hydro-Shield. Its a hydrofoil that bolts to your skeg and runs underneath the prop. Now its always in the water and always helpful, unlike the whale tail type you just tested. Disclaimer, i haven’t actually used/tested one myself but the interwebs has received them kindly.
Just bought 100 evinrude . From guy with your size boat. He built two aluminum boxes for buoyancy. Lol. I got nice motor. And bet with his new 40 horse he has same problem. . I thought he should have shimmed motor to keep front down. And hydrofoil would have helped. . But good for me. Lol 😮 do you think I may be right on tilting motor. Shims on top . Tilt top. motor out more. ? You don’t have to take off tilted in. But up on plan with tilt to keep front down.??? I’m just thinking is all. And I did not look 👀 if he had bottom lined up. With motor right. I’m shure he did.? I just wanted that 100. To replace my 75. More faster more gooder lolz 😮
You don't really need the foil. You have 25hp and only get 5kRPM at max throttle and the boat doesn't plane. I get the same result with 20HP with a boat same bottom hull shape but overall bigger size and more weight.. You need to properly trim the motor, can give you up to 1k RPM more. Also in best case scenario, your cav plate or hydrofoil should create one line with the hull line. It being 1" above or under is not a big deal tho.
This opinion is fairly false and you are welcome to experience the boat with and without the foil attached. You will immediately notice how much better the boat handles with the foil on it
@@SmallCraftCruisinghe is half right and half wrong. You don’t “need” the foil for power/planing/speed purposes. It is needed for your boat for handling purposes. Where is is right is that you should be getting 5800-6000rpms out of that motor at WOT. Something else is a miss. Motor height and prop adjustments might help you out greatly.
@@patrickfearon7942 yes, i did not swap to my other prop. at sea level, i set a record of 31MPH with this setup (minus foil), but at 4000 elevation, it is not possible and i need to go down in prop. but... this is why we test and report!
Ha. Yeah first thing is Sharrow doesn’t make props yet for the small displacement (Hp) motors. And they cost at least $5000 just for the prop. Not worth it.
The correct way is balance, which is the weight distribution in the boat as well as its design, gas tanks, the position of the console, etc. etc. When you see a boat with trim tabs stabilizer... you should doubt its performance.The same thing happens in an airplane, its weight distribution is important, you will not see additional wings attached to compensate the imbalance.
@@SmallCraftCruising Does the Hydrofoil flatten out the Wake? I was told it does, so it would be good for pulling a waterskiier? Have you noticed a difference in the wake with/without the hydrofoil?
When you have a small boat with an outboard and the driver handling the outboard, there's no way to balance the weight unless you want to put 200kg of ballast to the nose. That would seriously hamper the performance.
I found an increase in perfromance in my hole shot and cornering, as you said. I may have lost somethnig in the top end, this is less important to me. One bigger thing I noticed is an increase in my trim authority. It mde it slightly more 'touchy' but I now have increased range, so I can make bigger changes for trolling, general boating, and for towing skiers or tubes. I actually added a few washers on the front of the tail 'foil so I can get that bow down sooner if desired. I aslo have a dual-geometry 4-blade prop: I have better thrust as I transition from lower speeds to higher speeds. YMMV.
I had a 22 ft princecraft deck boat with a VERY HEAVY HONDA 115 only foil that work was an ATTWOOD it has lots of lift and the corners have stringers to prevent sliding
I had a 16' cobia and adding a hydrofoil gave me a smoother ride and higher trim for better top speed. My current 17' mckee doesn't benefit at all from the hydrofoil. It doesn't seem to make any difference in the ride or top speed.
The motor height matters a lot with these things. Cobia was probably set up perfectly for it and the McKee either needs raised or lowered to find that sweet spot.
@@patrickfearon7942 The mckee was designed for lots of room and to be unsinkable. I don't believe it was designed for speed or a smooth ride on anything other than smooth water. Those early designs are popular for lifeboats on larger boats. They didn't have a vee hull back then.
It looks like you didn't trim the motor up with the foil on, making it act like a brake. Trim it up properly and repeat the testing, and you may be pleased with the results.
@@SmallCraftCruising Maybe not the focus, but if you experiment, you will usually find that the boat runs differently with the foil on, and requires a different trim angle. Experiment and see if you can find the sweet spot.
Those dolphin foils are a waste of time, if you've set your motor up correctly that skeg plate will be above the water line on the plane. Have a look next time you're a passenger. You should have timed full throttle acceleration from zero to a set speed to see if there's any cavitation benefit?
To utilize the most of a se200 hydrofoil fin a hydraulic jackplate makes a difference when paired you keep the speeds up same time and have benefits of having the fin same time
With that rain storm, you could have taken shelter under your sunglasses. Keep the fin on, change the prop from a three blade to a four blade and look at the pitch to keep the RPM within manufactures specs.
I have a 300 on my 16' StarCraft DC w/60hp Merc. Boat planes @ 3500rpm. Noticably more stable, better gas consumption, but not as fast top speed by about 5mph. Not a concern. Performance 50% better OA. IMO, smaller boats would benefit in planing performance and particularly stability from using a hydrofoil.
I have added those to 2 different boats over the years. It does scrub a little from the top as you showed but the help with planing quicker is where it shines.
I’m running one on my 50hp on my 16 Klamath. Made a huge difference. For one your bolts are in upside down. I also trimmed mine after to reduce drag even more. Secondly, it would appear you have zero clue what trim is. With a fin your trim position is going to be different.
In my boat it’s way more stable and corners better because it’s a hard v-nose light weight aluminum boat. Secondly with 5 people and gear I’m up out of the water and on step in 2 seconds. Lastly my top speed was about 24 without it and I’ve been as high as 32 with the fin. Again, learn what trim is and how to use it. I’d wager a guess you also have you’re outboard mounted to low or even too high maybe. It’s important that where the fin mounts to is in line with the bottom of your boat or slightly above. An by slightly I mean less than 1/8 inch.
An yes, running a speed prop is going to change a lot as well.
The nuts and bolts that hold the foil to the anti airration plate are in backwards, Look at the directions again. Good little video though!
those bolts backwards, increases the drag considerably
You want them to go in from the bottom up through the hole to reduce drag. I also like it that way because I can see the threads and I will notice if it’s coming loose.
I had the same "tail-heavy" concerns putting a 4-stroke 20hp on my 12 foot aluminum. The boat was rated for up to 20hp but it was also made back when lighter 2-strokes were the norm. I had a local shop make me up some bolt-on pods for the stern. Added a foot to the length and now it sits fine with the 4-stroke and even gets on a plane easier when I have the 9.9hp on.
You can raise your motor height with that foil without cavitation.
This will help with lost speed.
Foils help with better response with trim and tilt.
i will do a video on how it affects the trim, because it is a big difference
Now to play with trim settings and props. Its a balancing act to get it all working in concert. You may also need to better tune the cutout to get the motor deeper into the water. Get it all dialed in and you could double your fuel efficiency. That last few MPH usually comes at the cost of the largest loss of MPG. Simpson rules still apply to increases in speed in relation to fuel usage on planing or semi-planing hulls so for best fuel efficiency you usually want to cruise at the lowest throttle setting that will keep you on plane which should be somewhere between a bit over half to two thirds throttle. Back in the late 50's we could plane a 17.5 foot mahogany plywood semi-vee with a 35 horse Evinrude Big Twin and run all day on 12 gallons of fuel with the correct prop pitch and trim setting if we watched our throttle setting.
Chine Lock and Skipping in a turn can be dangerous since you might not only toss an occupant but also flip a boat over sideways so play it safe. If your combination is prone to Chine Locking and the foil helps relieve that then indeed keep it and make the boat safer.
Best!
Sweet little rig ya got there man!
Pretty good video dude. I have one of those exact ones on my 20’ open bow. I haven’t checked to see if it slows down my boat, but in rough water, it really helps with controlling the boat!
Mount it upside down will handle better reduce drag maintain top end speed
@@scottb4832 lets see it on your boat
I put that same hydrofoil on my 14 1/2 foot StarCraft John boat with a 25 Yamaha. Made a world a difference. It was nearly uncontrollable without it and it would porpoise uncontrollably. Now it drives like a new boat. It’s an amazing transformation.
WOT should be around 5600 you should drop a pich in the prop. As well as I didn't see you trim up at all after on plain you should trim up a little bit just hold the trim up button for second and you will feel the backend rise up.
You need a power trim and tilt to provide the proper attack angle. It works really well with a hydrofoil. Finding a proper attack angle will cause your boat to go faster without increasing the throttle.
did you not watch the part where i specifically pointed out the power trim on this motor?
@@SmallCraftCruising please accept my apologies. I watched your video again and saw your hydraulic trim and tilt. I have the SE 300 and l love it. But one day I was out and found that adjusting my motor upwards from the throttle handle while cruising caused my bow to rise and my speed to increase. I believe this improves fuel efficiency. This hydrofoil drastically improved my ability to raise or lower my bow to find the sweet spot of fuel efficiency. Also, I love this ability to raise my bow up when going against larger wind generated waves. Like you said I also love that it very much improved overall stability.
Very respectfully,
Ryan
Put one of these on a 74" Glassmaster tri hull powered by a 60 hp 2stoke mercury. Pulled over to a cove after 20 mins and took it off. Made the boat lose 5 mph from top speed and it rode around everywhere with the bow way in the air. Some of the worse money I ever spent.
Did you not try to adjust the trim?
Having the bow way in the air and losing speed means you either have the motor trimmed wrong or you have the motor too deep in the water. Probably both in this case.
@@CncObsession motor had hydraulic trim so no matter how it was adjusted the bow was way to high.
For all the people saying you need to go down a pitch on your prop, I think you also need to go up in power. If you're not willing to go up a weight class, look for the highest HP that's within 50 pounds of your current motor's weight. If you ARE willing to go up a weight class, or even TWO, you can get a 60-115HP modern engine, or you can stay pretty light with an old-school 2-stroke 90hp or so 3-cylinder.
Do you need anything over 90? No, not unless you're a true speed demon, then you go 115-175. But 60-90 will do you DAMN good, and IMO you need AT LEAST a 40 on that boat for it to get out of its own way. Most of the realistic issues with motors are weight, though, so if you find that 40s, 50s and 60s all weigh the same, then there's no sense going for the 40 when you can run a 60, have power to spare for more weight, run at a lower RPM for planing cruise at the same or potentially better fuel efficiency, AND have more "clout" for running a bigger motor.
And if you're worried about cops, a 60 won't look out of place and a 90 might get a chin scratch or two. Either way, you can register the boat differently so there won't be issues, and/or you can just put a smaller sticker on it, as long as it's relatively believable. (Nobody will believe a 90hp sized cowl is only covering 15hp or 25hp, but they might believe a 90 is a 60 or a 60 is a 40)
at the time of purchasing the motor, the highest HP in a 15" shaft was 25.. i really wanted 30-35, but was simply not available.. and yes, that motor is much too heavy for that boat.. I will need to find another solution
@@SmallCraftCruising Ehhh, if you're willing to add to/modify your transom you could add the 5 inches of height to it you'd need to run a 20" shaft motor. Then you could swap that 25 for a DF60A if you want to keep it Suzuki and want to keep it modern. Yeah, it's 80 pounds heavier. But that's a large dog, or 2/3 of a woman. Which might equate to another 2 inches of draft, tops. Your boat doesn't sag nearly enough in the water with a 25 as you feel it does, and even if that was considered bad sag, you can fix that as a part of your transom mods by adding some pour foam.
Once you combine the massive power gain with a 4-bladed prop and using a hydrofoil on the new motor, everything will equal out. At worst, you'd have to add a little front ballast, but IDK what your fuel tank situation is. Then again, if you're happy being slow and unmodified, more power to you. If you want to go at least a little fast and have much better performance with 3 or 4 passengers, then do some research and delve into modding. If you're still worried about the weights, older 2-strokes in the 40-60hp range are mostly all under 200 pounds. You could even mod those to make them more powerful, still.
A race-prepped 40 probably makes closer to 60 and still only weighs 180 pounds, all without being THAT out of whack so as to be unreliable or whatever. Just 30 pounds more for over double your current power.
@@Drunken_Hamster the boat was originally rated for something like 40-50 horsepower, but the problem is, is the transom is close enough to the water as is that small wind waves have come over the back and threatened to sink the boat.. skinny of it is, is the boat is too small..
also, the 25 can get this up to 30 mph which is scary fast for that tiny hull.. i would not want to be able to go much faster TBH..
i am trying to find a 14-15' of a similiar year, and then put a 50 hp on it instead
@@SmallCraftCruising Cool. I'll probably see the video sometime, then.
It’s been my experience that using a four blade prop will really cut down the fishtailing and greatly reduce the sliding in turns while giving you a tighter turn radius and get you on plane faster.
You may lose a little on top speed but you will definitely have a safer boating experience.
Hydrofoil adds a lot of stability to a boat and are well worth it, but it takes a couple of miles per hour of your top end. Try this: add 1” or 1.5” spacers to rise your hydrofoil off of your anti-cavitation plate. This should give you back your top end speed if that’s important to you. Make sure your spacers are at least 5/8 diameter, so it distributes the force against the anti-cavitation plate.
honestly, i have maxed this boat at 31mph and it is... scary.. I am very happy with a cruising speed of 15-20mph
Good for you you took an older hull and repowered it with a great little motor, I hope you spent the cash and did get power trim and the short lower end. If so with the engine propped correctly and engine height correct that boat should be doing a lot better than it is. I wish you had taken some nice long shots of the water spray at the transom with and without the foil. If you are keeping the boat and want more versatility at different altitudes get a jack plate and use the more coarse prop . Don't bother if you don't have power trim.
I used my 'biggest' prop at over 4000 elevation, and I should have gone down a size or two before filming. Did not think of it until i was on the water, and since it was not exactly central to the video since the foil would drag (or not drag) regardless of the prop, i did not swap them.
yes, it has power trim, and i did a top speed run at a lake near sea level and found 31 MPH at 5600 RPM (with this same prop) you can see that video in my profile under "Top Speed Run on Classic Boat"
and yes, i am trying to get better shots of the boat. I need an assistant to help film..
When you get to wide open throttle trim the engine up some and you will turn more rpms and get better top speeds
Thanks for the info on the foil. I always wonder how they did.
I noticed that you were not triming out the motor while underway and mentioned nothing about trim. Also have you tried to change engine height before adding a foil ? Your cavitation plate while underway should be at the top of the water pretty much. Reason why I say this is that people add a foil for no reason because they don't know how to use trim and your engine height is wrong :) you want to exhaust all options before just throwing on a foil or a 4 blade prop, foil is more drag and 4 blade prop is less efficient and slower
i plan to make a video talking about how trim affects boat speed
Talking about drag, wouldn't you have less drag if you used carage style bolts with the smooth side down and shouldnt the foil and anticavitation plate be out of the water at top end? Check your height, keep the foil but get it just out of the water at WOT with adjusting engine height.
A few things. As everyone said that's not a hydrofoil it's really designed to help get your boat on plane and not plow water,. works great for small motors like a 3.0 Merc. on small ski boats like a Bayliner. 27mph with a 25hp 4 stroke seems fine to me. What I really wanted to see was playing with the trim to help air out the boat to see if you can find more top end. Have fun with it and wear your life jacket.
trim will be its own video
Never saw him trim the motor up.😂
I had the same experience with a 16' Aluminum Lund with a 50hp Johnson. With the hydrofoil, can get the boat up on plane quicker even when heavily loaded, can turn sharper without cavitation, it makes the boat "fee" bigger" and more stable. Because it is a wing in the water it does reduce the top speed slightly, but for me that is more than offset by the other advantages. I consider it well worth it.
Cool boat!
Slower with the foil. More drag. Raise the motor up for more speed. Lower for more foil induced control. Prop could be shorter pitch for more wot rpm. Chk motor spec.
I put that same Hydrofoil on my 19 foot bow rider. Yes it does slow you down . I also have a 4 fin prop witch I put on. The boat planes much nicer and had a awesome hole shot with and without skiers. I save on fuel by plane at slower speeds. With just one small person or persons in the bow it plane’s really nice and slow. That’s what I wanted when I put it on. They make a nice slow plane with a foil on. There not for speed. In my opinion. Thank you for the video.
Same for me. Great improvement!
Very cool boat, the style reminds me of my 60'
I like your video's a lot!!
So thanks for the effort.
The quality may not be the best, but the subjects, and the way you share the information in a detailed way is great!
( like what rpm does for the speed, and when it starts plaining)
Maybe you could make another video about the diffrent props you told about,
(Or try a 4 blade?)
In short:
Keep it up, and i look forward for more!!!
thank you! yes, i would love to increase the quality, but I am mostly one person doing this, so I do what I can with what I have.. but sure, I will do another video with the effects of different props
If you're losing top speed it's because your outboard is mounted too low. Raise it up to get the hydrofoil to skim on top of the water at top speed and you'll get the pros without losing top end... I have the exact same hydrofoil on mine and keep it for slower planning speed. Not losing any top speed since the outboard was raised to it's most efficient position...
100 percent agree on this! I added an SE Sport 200 to my 20' bass boat and by adjusting my jack plate to raise the motor, my boat would jump right up on plane at a much lower RPM and speed, like it was going over a curb, and never lost top speed.
This is what I’m hoping for. I have a 12’ flat bottom jon with a Suzuki 9.9EFI 4-stroke. First mount and it was dragging and the cav plate was under water. Couldn’t reach full RPM and had a hard time planing unless someone was sitting on the bow to keep it down.
I added a jack plate and played with the mounting holes. Went higher and higher until it would blow out and dropped it back down.
Now I can plane easier and get the WOT RPMs right, but since it’s a 9.9 I don’t have power trim. The only way to plane out is to have it all the way down, but this causes porpoising at top speed. I’m thinking adding a foil and setting the trim to the middle setting might be the cure. Won’t need to be fully trimmed down to plane and should be a flat running surface at speed.
So many damn factors on tiny boats. Life was much easier on my 22’ Key West Center Console with a 200hp Yamaha and hydraulic trim tabs.
Thank you for posting your hydrofoil results…I had a Volvo drive with out one…and recently a cobra drive with one or a copy…not sure.
My main concern is some big prop nicks and some pieces broken off the leading edges of the drive…caused by a previous user. As we all know cavitation from prop or drive is like putting your tranny in neutral…especially on hard turns…looks like the foil acts to shield prop suction during tight turns…as you demonstrated…I plan to epoxy and clean up the drive leading edges…and most likely replace the rock chewing prop.
Cleaning up your leading edges will be a good thing!
A prop sucking air from the surface is ventilation. Cavitation is tiny air bubbles under high pressure popping against the prop blades.
Addes one to my 14', 40hp rig, planes instantly, gained top speed, have infinite control over trim with small touches of button. Best addition I have done on my boat.
The biggest thing is how fast you get on plane. They work great for heavier setups.
and even though the boat is 'light' the motor is proportionally heavy, and it really helps balance the boat out
Made one for my 10 foot inflatable..with a 9.9 .. .. I liked the fact that it slowed down the back of the boat from rising out of the water ,when navigating large waves … helped keep my prop in he water …and got up on plain twice as fast ….. could cruise along at about 24 mph .. before the I’d only get maybe 18 ……. I made mine out of a I/4 inch plastic plate ..20/20 inch .. drilled 4 holes …. Cost me the price of the bolts ….
I just got my 30 Suzuki. Going on my 16 V.
If you wanna turn and get better bite. And lift at low speed You have power trim. Just tuck the motor in a bit. No need for the whale tail thats my opinion. I run a 30hp mariner on a 16x42 trim makes all the difference. I can eek out 31mph if i trim up as for as i can. But i cant corner without blowout. So when i turn i just tuck in the motor about flat trim and i can turn full lock at wide open throttle no problem.
Drive your boat.
I use an 11 and 12 pitch props
Hey, great video and boat. Thank you!
You should get trim tabs. For that boat smart tabs would probably work, or get some electric Lenco trim tabs. BTW, sweet looking boat, reminds me of my dads Glasspar.
i am not going to put that much money into it
@@SmallCraftCruising and 9n a stern that narrow, tabs wouldn't leave you any room for your transducer.
Love how these guys tell you what you should do, but they have zero idea what they are talking about.
I really doubt any of them own, or have ever set up a boat. It's entertaining tbough haha!
Great vid, thx again
@@SmallCraftCruisingto be fair, smart tabs are cheap. I don’t think you need them though. That boat is beautiful and riding nice.
@@Evian1990 you are 100% right.. i do not think these people realize just how small this boat really is!
thanks for your review, I ordered one last week!
how do you like it?
@SmallCraftCruising Im from the netherlands and we have a lot of small canals, i have a corsiva 475 with a 15hp engine. What i found out is that the boat is easier to steer (less drifing) in tight corners, steers better when the prop is not turning. And even without electrical trim i find the rear of the boat does not dip that much in the pre-plane phase. For me its a good purchase and i agree with everything in your review. 💯
That particular is brand is hands down the best on the market... I've been running one on my bass rigs for 15 years... Been paid for many times over is saved gas.
DO NOT BUY ANY of the units where you don't drill- they will not stay on your engine. Drill the1/4" bolt holes and forget about it. These SE's have a fool proof template for a perfect installation. If anyone tells you these don't work- you can bet they have never tried it. Guess that's enough said..
There is nothing wrong with that. Great little boat
good review so great a low speeds like waterskiing to get out of the "hole" etc but more of a hindrance at high speeds
Love these things! It tells potential buyers that the boat is underpowered and you should walk away.
you clearly did not watch the video
My father did this (although on the sides instead of the outboard) to his row-boat style boat with a 5hp outboard. Before it just raised the nose up and didn't glide but after a few screws and glass fibre panels the boat started planing and top speed almost doubled with the same engine.
Nice boat.
If you want to go faster with the hydrofoil then you got to trim your motor up and it will give you the top speed you’re looking for.
You need same to go down at minimum 1 pitch in that prop 2 pitch reduction would be perfect for when you have passangers. If its speed and 1 person. Reduce 1 pitch if its overall performance go down 2 pitches or 3 i think you gain 200 or 400 rpm per drop in pitch. Read up on it. But if I'm correct i think that motors max efficient running rpm is 5600 rpm but don't quote me.
What's the prop pitch on this motor?
It looks as if trimflaps on the rear of the boat would do the same thing.. and if you install adjustable trimflaps, you can have a uneven loaded boat and still go straight..
Basically a trim tab added to the motor?
Hydrofoil.
It's the difference between an airfoil and an elevator on an airplane. The (hydrofoil) airfoil lifts because of the curve and the (trim tabs) elevator only deflects.
Top RPM of 5100 with just you? What is the wide open RPM supposed to be, according to the manufacturer? Might be to large a prop.
5000-6000 is what it says
@@SmallCraftCruising definitely on the low side with just you, for sure needs a difference prop.
Does that Szuk have power trim? Trim er up some when you get on plane. Also you might be able to raise the motor up some if your motor has additional mounting holes. You want the anti ventilation plate about even with or just a tad bit above the bottom of the boat. That way the fin would be just above and not really touching the surface of the water when on plane, eliminating it's drag, but should still work at lower speeds. Just my thoughts.
Idk what prop he has....but it's too much pitch ....that boat needs no more than 11 pitch that will get you to the top of the Rev range and better lift at low rpm. (Up on plane at a lower speed so you can cruise more efficient.
For these to be effective, you must lower your motor mounting height so the hydrofoil is below the hull line in “clean” water. Only then will you feel the dramatic results. And be prepared. A little trim adjustment goes a long way. You can absolutely porpoise your bow into a wave as easily as you can get it airborne.
I haven’t watched a second of this video, but i can tell you those foils work a treat. Not only got my boat on the plane almost instantly (4.3m heavy duty aluminium with 60HP 4 stroke), but the handling also went from twitchy to solid as a rock. Highly recommend.
If engines were supposed to have them they would design the cavitation plate as such. Get trim tabs or a bigger engine and trow the foil out.
find me a 4-stroke 15" motor new with more than 25 hp please!! I would love to upgrade
These engines have so many different applications it would be stupid to come with them. Some boats benefit from them, others only have a negative impact. A fun would be useless if this motor was on a pontoon or work barge or if being used as a kicker motor or on a sailboat.
4 strokes are always arse heavy. I have had to reverse wedge Mercury motors on Crestliner boat
I feel like you should trim the motor out and test max speeds
@@kirb743 I did.. in a different video 🤙🏻
I don't understand why the engine manufacturers don't just form the anti-cavitation plate in this configuration if they work so well. Seems like it would be better than an aftermarket add-on.
with this engine rpm should be 5000 - 6000 so you can change the prop as Gennaro said
There is no SE 100, they only come in 200, 300 and 400 series.
He got scammed 😂😂😂
You should look into a Hydro-Shield. Its a hydrofoil that bolts to your skeg and runs underneath the prop. Now its always in the water and always helpful, unlike the whale tail type you just tested. Disclaimer, i haven’t actually used/tested one myself but the interwebs has received them kindly.
Great vid 👍 thanks
Just bought 100 evinrude . From guy with your size boat. He built two aluminum boxes for buoyancy. Lol. I got nice motor. And bet with his new 40 horse he has same problem. . I thought he should have shimmed motor to keep front down. And hydrofoil would have helped. . But good for me. Lol 😮 do you think I may be right on tilting motor. Shims on top . Tilt top. motor out more. ? You don’t have to take off tilted in. But up on plan with tilt to keep front down.??? I’m just thinking is all. And I did not look 👀 if he had bottom lined up. With motor right. I’m shure he did.? I just wanted that 100. To replace my 75. More faster more gooder lolz 😮
A 4 blade prop can also help with grip and stern lift. Maybe some type of trim tabs?
Great explanation. I plan to add now to my 16 ft with 40 HP Merc!
If you put a 4 blade prop instead it should give you more stern lift
i have not been able to find a 4-blade for this outboard.. got any links? I would love to try one out!
You don't really need the foil. You have 25hp and only get 5kRPM at max throttle and the boat doesn't plane. I get the same result with 20HP with a boat same bottom hull shape but overall bigger size and more weight.. You need to properly trim the motor, can give you up to 1k RPM more. Also in best case scenario, your cav plate or hydrofoil should create one line with the hull line. It being 1" above or under is not a big deal tho.
This opinion is fairly false and you are welcome to experience the boat with and without the foil attached. You will immediately notice how much better the boat handles with the foil on it
@@SmallCraftCruisinghe is half right and half wrong. You don’t “need” the foil for power/planing/speed purposes. It is needed for your boat for handling purposes.
Where is is right is that you should be getting 5800-6000rpms out of that motor at WOT. Something else is a miss. Motor height and prop adjustments might help you out greatly.
@@patrickfearon7942 yes, i did not swap to my other prop. at sea level, i set a record of 31MPH with this setup (minus foil), but at 4000 elevation, it is not possible and i need to go down in prop. but... this is why we test and report!
Yea bro the mounting bolts are in upside down.
You should try a share prop.
I am not familiar with this
Sharrow Prop..................... they look interesting
@@loganpotts9623 oh cool! never heard of them before.. will look to one in my motor's size and see how they perform!
Ha. Yeah first thing is Sharrow doesn’t make props yet for the small displacement (Hp) motors. And they cost at least $5000 just for the prop. Not worth it.
The correct way is balance, which is the weight distribution in the boat as well as its design, gas tanks, the position of the console, etc. etc. When you see a boat with trim tabs stabilizer... you should doubt its performance.The same thing happens in an airplane, its weight distribution is important, you will not see additional wings attached to compensate the imbalance.
@@juliocesarvazquez3992 I’ll be sure to tell the men who designed it back in 1955
@@SmallCraftCruising Does the Hydrofoil flatten out the Wake? I was told it does, so it would be good for pulling a waterskiier? Have you noticed a difference in the wake with/without the hydrofoil?
When you have a small boat with an outboard and the driver handling the outboard, there's no way to balance the weight unless you want to put 200kg of ballast to the nose. That would seriously hamper the performance.
I bought the HydroSheild. And removed my Whale tail. It’s night and day diffrents.
I think I like those glasses, hehe. Do you have a link.
I have a 1965 Hydrodyne and it doesnt have hard chines too.
yeah, the earliest i have seen them is 1960, but i do not know of any that did not have them by 1970.. am no expert though
Super cool boat.
Hey thanks man! 🤙🏻
I found an increase in perfromance in my hole shot and cornering, as you said. I may have lost somethnig in the top end, this is less important to me. One bigger thing I noticed is an increase in my trim authority. It mde it slightly more 'touchy' but I now have increased range, so I can make bigger changes for trolling, general boating, and for towing skiers or tubes. I actually added a few washers on the front of the tail 'foil so I can get that bow down sooner if desired. I aslo have a dual-geometry 4-blade prop: I have better thrust as I transition from lower speeds to higher speeds. YMMV.
They make 2 versions that don’t need holes drilled.
I had a 22 ft princecraft deck boat with a VERY HEAVY HONDA 115 only foil that work was an ATTWOOD it has lots of lift and the corners have stringers to prevent sliding
Why didnt you use Carriage Bolts to mount it with the rounded heads down?
i used the bolts that came with the product
I put one on mine and plained out much faster.
Mine causes my boat to almost flip over when trimmed down. Scared the hell out of me.
cool boat
Is that a Norriscraft? Looks like their paint scheme.
I had a 16' cobia and adding a hydrofoil gave me a smoother ride and higher trim for better top speed. My current 17' mckee doesn't benefit at all from the hydrofoil. It doesn't seem to make any difference in the ride or top speed.
The motor height matters a lot with these things. Cobia was probably set up perfectly for it and the McKee either needs raised or lowered to find that sweet spot.
@@patrickfearon7942 The mckee was designed for lots of room and to be unsinkable. I don't believe it was designed for speed or a smooth ride on anything other than smooth water. Those early designs are popular for lifeboats on larger boats. They didn't have a vee hull back then.
It looks like you didn't trim the motor up with the foil on, making it act like a brake. Trim it up properly and repeat the testing, and you may be pleased with the results.
trim was not the focus of the video and was left out, however the motor was trimmed as needed. I did many speed runs and only filmed some of them
@@SmallCraftCruising Maybe not the focus, but if you experiment, you will usually find that the boat runs differently with the foil on, and requires a different trim angle. Experiment and see if you can find the sweet spot.
@@thilltony3362 did you miss the previous comment? “the motor was trimmed as needed” is there a better way to communicate that to you?
@@SmallCraftCruising It didn't look like it in the video, but if you did, then great. Don't be upset.
Is that a Duo? I used to have that boat
what camera are you using ? so nice
Olympus Tough TG-6 on the boat, and my phone in the office
Those things are awesome, can get up on plain and rip
It makes a difference I can plane my boat at a little past half throttle
thanks a lot for the video
@@mahmoudeljedwy3247 hope it helped
Those dolphin foils are a waste of time, if you've set your motor up correctly that skeg plate will be above the water line on the plane.
Have a look next time you're a passenger.
You should have timed full throttle acceleration from zero to a set speed to see if there's any cavitation benefit?
Did you watch the part of the video where I explained how much better the boat handles with the foil on it?
Dude's sunglasses are big, good video tho
Pretty sure that's a helmet.
To utilize the most of a se200 hydrofoil fin a hydraulic jackplate makes a difference when paired you keep the speeds up same time and have benefits of having the fin same time
With that rain storm, you could have taken shelter under your sunglasses. Keep the fin on, change the prop from a three blade to a four blade and look at the pitch to keep the RPM within manufactures specs.
those sunglass are amazing! they definitely protect me from the rain and sun and wind and shitty judgmental people!
Why not use your tilt and trim? You'll go faster
was not shown in video, was used
Nice!
I put a hydrofoil on my 22 Mako. The Hydrofoill made a big positive difference in planing and top end speed.
are you trimming your engine
yes duh
Chill dude , @@SmallCraftCruising
Would the order of the test make a difference? Fuel weight and balance, engine operating temp?
Whats with the snowboarding goggles?
they are great for wind and water spray as well!
The top end was better without the fins! And that’s all I care about lol so I won’t be getting them anytime soon
If you choose to be slower to get on the plane, you will be left behind .....
Adding a "hydroplane/fin" to your outboard motor adds weight and drag. Hmmm thats better??
did you watch the video? I literally addressed this question.. in the video..
Get auto trim tabs, they are so much better
boat is too small for them to fit
@@SmallCraftCruising Need a bigger boat!
@@SmallCraftCruisingyou can buy cheap spring loaded trim tabs
It’s a leveler
What kind of sonar are you using that you can still read the bottom at those speeds?
the one that came in the box..
I have a 300 on my 16' StarCraft DC w/60hp Merc. Boat planes
@ 3500rpm. Noticably more stable, better gas consumption, but not as fast top speed by about 5mph. Not a concern. Performance 50% better OA. IMO, smaller boats would benefit in planing performance and particularly stability from using a hydrofoil.