It Works!! I just did it on a $225 Milwaukee red lithium heavy high output M18 that wouldn't charge. It now charges and no need to buy a new one!! Thank you so much for this post!!
Thank you for the video. I have forgotten about this little trick and had a MACTOOL battery that was so low it would not charge. When you pressed the indicator button it would just give a flash and would not take a charge. My tip to those that encounter this was taking two short pieces of 16 gauge wire or similar and I just pushed the stripped ends into the PROPER locations. After two minutes both batteries showed fully charge. I took this wires off and placed them on the charger until the process was complete.
Wow, you leave them plugged together for 2 minutes? I guess on 18 volt batteries that might be okay, but with the flexvolt batteries I found that pulsing them for 5 second spans or so was the safest way to pick-up the voltage high enough for the charger to recognize them again. And I thought I was so smart for thinking this up. Lol...
@@MyFortressConstruction I am not sure but I think you sort of wake the battery up. Rechecking the battery it did not hold a charge so it might have a bad cell. I did see that these do not like extreme weather and the battery that failed was left in my black truck during the hot days we had recently so maybe that is part of the demise also. I think the heat is a current draw issue versus volts but not sure. Still messing with this but I did bring my lithium ion car battery back from the dead by using this method. It's a good video!
Great, I've been able to save about 5 batteries this way and they're all continuing to function. One I had to jump 3 times but it's been working fine for about 6 months now. However, I have had one battery completely give up the ghost so it's not always just a low voltage.
When the battery was flat again, the same trick didn’t work, so instead of connecting the battery to another one, or putting it directly into the charger, I connected it directly to the + and - terminals of the charger and it charged up ok. I think the other charger terminals must be doing something to stop the charge when it’s low. I kept an eye on the charger and the battery temperatures in case something blew up!
@@christaylor528 Cool, I didn't even think of that. I assumed the charger wouldn't work without the input from the other prongs. I recently had a flexvolt battery that wouldn't work with just hooking up + - so I hooked up every single prong to the prong of the other battery and it worked that way. Seems like there can be multiple things going on and you have to try different methods to trick the batteries.
Ima have to try this. I had a battery with 2 charge cycles die on me. Litterally a brand new battery. I warrantied it and they just sent a new one. Didnt havent to send the dead one which is cool since i can just fix it now
Great, glad it helped. I've saved 4 flexvolt batteries this way too. They seem to make it to 3 years and then start discharging too low. I had to hook up every pin to another flexvolt battery once when the simple + - trick didn't work.
I have the flexvolt system and have had 2 x 9amp batteries die on me right after warranty. One of which was sent back only to be told its useless and it was discarded. I've just brought my remaining 9amp battery back to life with this video. Thankyou so much for your clear and concise video.
Yeah, I've had six do that to me. I've been able to save them all except one which seems like some cells have permanently failed inside cuz I jumped it a few times but now it won't charge completely. I had a DeWalt rep tell me that since batteries won't hold a charge as well as the first day just bring them in before warranty is out and tell them it's not holding a charge like it use to (which is always true since batteries degrade over time). They should swap it out right then and there. DeWalt and Milwaukee know that these higher capacity batteries have a much higher fail rate after 3 years so now even Milwaukee doesn't offer 5 years on their large batteries. I have 5ah and smaller batteries from 2015 that haven't had a lick of trouble. Never had one fail. It's all 6ah and larger. Glad you saved at least one 9ah.
Great! Since figuring this out I've saved all of my batteries by either jumping them like this, or leaving them on my charger for multiple days and trying this on and off.
Mine was an original Dewalt that still had one light showing on the gauge. It was down to about 14 volts and the charger didn't like it and wouldn't charge. I have a variable power supply and added a small charge to bring up the voltage slightly and it charges fine now. I think the charger doesn't like to charge the battery once it gets too low, possibly would damage the charger with too much current...not sure.
Anyone wondering why this works, its because they run lithium ion batterys in series and parallel to increase the voltage and amps from 3.7v per battery to 20ish , and to charge a li ion battery like that they charge cells uneven and one overcharges and bust into flames, to stop this and have them charge within a millivolt of eachother equally they have an internal bms battery management system that measures while it charges and takes voltage from the highest cell and dumps it into the lowest to keep all cells equal at all times, when you over discharge one the bms turns off as it thinks the battery is damaged and dangerous to charge, hooking it up to another thats slightly more powerfull wakes up the bms as it feels the voltage from the good battery and the 20 second boost you put in it keeps it on till you put it on a proper charger, then the bms pulls amps from the charger and lets them to the cells again, reawakening a sleeping bms and saving the battery...
DeWalt has a service website that will either tell you where to ship it or tell you the closest place you can take your equipment to. Batteries can't be shipped so: www.toolservicenet.com/dewalt/en/findStorePage?Brand=dewalt
You're limited in the online tool repair scenarios (has to be certain models and such), but my local center is pretty decent at filling the gap. They've had freight trucks pick-up and deliver lawnmowers under warranty so try calling your local shop and seeing what they can do.
I’ve ran into this because of Airsoft.. they use lipos as well.. it’s come to be known as a zombie Li-Po.. never seen it with drill batteries.. thanks for the upload brother.. best of luck.
Any will do until you start getting into electronics. As long as it reads ac and dc you're good. They can be found from $1-$100+ but a cheap one is fine.
I have a 56v battery and it's the only 56v battery I have (a replacement costs $255!). Can I do it with a 20v battery or does it have to be the same voltage?
So I don't know the exact make up of your battery but what I would suggest is checking voltage on the different terminals. It could be that they have a bunch of cells in series that make it straight 56v, or it could be like the flex volt battery where they have cells in series to bring them up to 18/20v and then they connect those clusters in series to bring it to 54/60v. So if all you find on your multimeter is that it's straight 45-56v on your terminal then you can't use 20v to try and jump it, at least to my knowledge. So, I think you'll need to check it out a bit more.
I'm only getting 12.2 v across my one and only battery, B+ to B-. Can I use any method to jump the C4 ( reading 4.2v)? The other C terminals all read 8.1v. Thanks!
As far as I know, you can take it apart and replace the bad cell or jump it and then put it on a charger. There isn't a non-destructive way to isolate a cell from the rest. I had a battery that I jumped, charged and it still wouldn't take a full charge (maybe 20% before it thought it was "full") so I just left it on the charger for several weeks and it recovered. So, it's possible that just leaving it on a charger will slowly maintain the cells and could revive that 4.2v cell.
@@MyFortressConstruction thanks. It's still in the 3 year, so I'll try to get a new one. Also, I'll probably buy knock offs so I can use the one tool that takes these batteries. But I might also try another charger if I can find one to see what it does. I think I may have run it down too far on an older tool, but after jumping the Bs from a Ryobi 18v, out now shows 17v... But still won't charge on the charger. I even tried to juice up the C4 from the Ryobi and the B+, but I think the pack was too smart for that! Security Torx at work tomorrow, and I'll see if I can go directly to the cell packs... Edit: The charger is doing a weird two blinks then pause pattern. Thoughts?
@@paradoxworkshop4659 Two blinks and a pause mean a problem power line. Have you tried plugging into a different receptacle on a different circuit? I suppose you could check voltage on that circuit as well, but it could just be a loose connection inside the charger. I had a charger that wouldn't charge and when I took it apart it was a loose connection on the A/C cord and after splicing it together with a wire nut, it worked fine.
@@MyFortressConstruction I looked for this as a trouble code and couldn't find it. I'll try another charger before I do anything else, or fix this one!
I think I bought a multi pack of the little alligator clamps from harbor freight or Amazon and then I just used some 10 or 12 ga. thhn wire I had laying around. You just crimp the alligator clamps, or whatever kind of terminals you want, onto the wires.
How easy is it to ruin the other battery if this doesnt work.I have 2 12 amp batteries for watercraft that are very expensive .One will not take a charge as it got some moisture in it., so I dont want to ruin the good battery?Cheers
If you cross the wires and hook up + to - it could damage them, and if you discharge the other battery too far then it could be damaged, or if you did have too much too quickly and overheat the battery then it could be damaged. But that is why you pulse the batteries and keep checking every 5 seconds or so.
So connecting Negative to Negative and Positive to Positive for around 20 seconds is the trick to get the dead battery going again! Going to try it out now!
Any battery has the possibility of being revived this way but you'd have to open it up probably to get direct access to the battery. You'll need to pair it with the same voltage from another battery. Just be careful because there's always the risk of fire and/or explosion.
My charger shows that my 56v battery is fully charged even at 0%. The battery was at half and it said it was fully charged when put o the charger then, too. And then I used it till it was dead and now the charger says it's fully charged and won't charge. It's a $255 Mantis battery for a rototiller and I hate to spend that kind of money. The battery was only used a few hours but I let it sit in the barn all winter and the instructions said to charge it every month and I didn't do that. So it's not dead from use. Any way to fix this?
Forgot to mention: I would also suggest just leaving it on the charger. Sometimes they trickle charge which is why the mfg. Says to keep it on the charger when not in use. What generally happens is there is a single cell that is at the bottom of the series of cells that takes the brunt of discharge. It will fall below the correct voltage and basically render the entire battery faulty. If you can slowly bring it back up then the charger will recognize it again and start charging the whole battery. I had one battery I couldn't "jump" but left on the charger for a couple of weeks and it recovered completely.
There should be marks of - and +. If you don't see any then you'll need to use a multimeter to verify. You just need to make sure you don't crisscross terminals.
That sounds like a cell is bad, but I'd check voltage and see what it's at. Does it function as normal? It could also be a bad led on the indicator but that'd be unlikely because generally that goes completely, not just one diode. If it is still functioning as normal, but has reduced runtime then I would keep using it unless it's within warranty and can replace it.
Hopefully you wont, but as a DeWalt and Milwaukee rep told me, just take your batteries in before they're out of warranty and tell them they don't hold a charge as well as they use to, which is always true, and they'll give you new ones. 👍
@UCFpaAK1785W_ZLV9FQjDNZA A DeWalt/Stanley Black and Decker service center. I have one about 50 min. from me in Carrollton, TX. You can call 1-800-4-dewalt to find a place if you can't get on the internet and google the location of your nearest center. Because of Covid-19, my local service center was making exceptions for shipping things and might send you a label for batteries even though they typically don't allow it.
I don't, but I have never come across a bad board on any battery. It's always been a cell that was so discharged that it dropped the voltage below the "safe" level of the charger. If it was a bad management board then you could get it juiced back up again and then it would fall too low again, and so on and so forth. I actually had a battery like that that I had to jump 2 times and I thought it was a bad bms but after the second time it's been running fine on its own for about 9 months.
Thanks! Wish I had seen this before I trashed my Ryobi 5AH's. Because I didn't bother to register the batteries at purchase I was told exchange wasn't an option. It sounds like that is not the Dewalt terms?
DeWalt doesn't require registering, but it's only a 3 year warranty. If you have your receipt they will go 3 years from the date of the receipt, and if you don't have the receipt then they go off the battery mfg. date. They've been great with me and replaced several batteries without blinking an eye.
Yeah if the battery shows that it's only got one bar, but it says that it's full on the charger, then your problem is probably the same as mine. Check the voltage on the terminals and see what voltage you're at. If your voltage is low then you can try to jump it with this method. Once you get the voltage up a little bit then the charger should recognize it and start charging it.
I tried this with two dead Ryobi 40v and it didnt work after charging two minutes. Does it matter if they have different amp hour rating? How long can you safely jump them? Thx.
The amp hour rating won't matter too much though I would try to pull from a larger battery. As far as length of time, I'm not sure what would be safe. I recommend short pulses. You can try to monitor temperature, but if contacts cross or something else happens then you could have a cell or the whole battery explode or spark... Definitely wear PPE and have ventilation if you're concerned.
Have you checked voltage on the battery with a multimeter? I'm guessing you've tried it on different tools already to make sure it's not the tool. Besides that I would try to clean the contacts on the battery with a little sand paper (just slide it in and out). Hope you're able to get it working.
I tried this my DeWalt Flexvolt battery for just a few seconds but it didn't work. Didn't want to take a chance of it messing up my good Flexvolt battery. I might try again and leave it on for 20 seconds and see what happens.
Yeah, that's understandable and I can't guarantee anything, but I've done this multiple times and I've watched the discharge with a thermal imager and they haven't had an issue. Always better to be safe though and do what you're comfortable with. Pulsing for a few seconds is the safer option but with one of my batteries I had to leave it connected for about a minute to get it back. The thermal imager gives me peace of mind when I do that because I can see if anything is getting above 110⁰ F. This is definitely a "Do at your own risk" sort of project though!
My gosh! 18 months ago, purchased a Flymo Contour 20v Li grass trimmer in the autumn, fully charged the battery and then stored it till spring. When I came to use it for the first time, the battery was as flat as a pancake! Tried charging it, but the charger light remained on green and would not charge. Phoned the vendor Amazon, was unable to obtain through them a new battery under the 2 year guarantee as they are disgracefully unavailable. Arranged pick up of the unused trimmer for a full refund. The carrier arranged by Amazon, failed to pick it up (as they don’t!) phoned Amazon and was told to keep it and a refund would still be applied. So… I have a brand new unused Flymo trimmer, the batteries are still, unavailable anywhere including EBay.. And then I stumble across this TH-cam! Followed the instructions using a fully charged Bosch drill battery as the power source, and Wow!!!…the charger’s red charging light is “On” and the Flymo battery is now taking a charge!! What can I say but many, many thanks👍
Great! Yeah, lithium batteries store the best around 80% charged. This coming winter plug it in every once in a while. Some systems say to leave it on the charger all the time when stored.
What brand? Have you checked what it's voltage is? Sounds like the same problem I had in this video. The charger will run for 30 seconds or so and then stop because it's sensing that the voltage is too low. Typically the charger will flash an error code.
@@MyFortressConstruction Yes sorry, I guess I didn’t specify the battery. It is the 5amp dewalt. I’ll check the voltage and hopefully get a clear reading. I looked elsewhere online and it says that it’s probably a bad cell now.
@@aaronmoritz9878 it's possible it is a bad cell but even bad cells can recover. Sometimes they've been discharged too much and they can be jumped back to life. If the voltage is low you can try jumping to get it up.
My battery just went out. I will try your fix. If it doesn't work i will send it in. I think that my battery is still under warranty. I didn't know that the "Born On" date was on the battery. Thanks for the information.
@@ezelk1337 Yeah, a DeWalt rep told me to bring in any of my 6ah or larger batteries before the 3 years are up because they do seem to last 3 years and then get drained too much for the charger to recognize them. However, if you're careful with this method (quick pulses to bring up the voltage) then you should be able to save all your batteries. I have almost 5 year old flexvolt batteries that are still running because I did this to get them up. Just check and make sure it's low voltage and not dirty contacts keeping the charger from charging it. The contacts need to be cleaned every once in a while.
It has a 3 year warranty, so you probably have until 2022 to take it in. I mis-read. You are asking where. So, if you call 1-800-4-DEWALT they should help you find the nearest service center.
So you mean, you charge your battery, it sits for a few months, and then when you go to use it, it's dead? If so, then it's probably got a bad cell/connection internally. The circuitry in the batteries does take a little bit of power every hour and there is "leakage" of current, but it should take over a year for a full battery to be dead from such a minimal draw (amps and voltage play a part in loss so it would depend).
@@davekana8388 Most manufacturers have at least a 3 year warranty on batteries, so I would send it in to get replaced if you're serial # was manufactured within that timeframe. Otherwise it sounds like you would have to take off the casing and test each cell's voltage to see if you have a bad cell inside. Could be a bad connection or something else that is drawing power. Good luck to you.
Looking through a parts diagram and isolating your part, and then reaching out to a third party is the only way I would think it was possible. I know DeWalt isn't going to sell an individual electronic piece that goes inside of their batteries. Sorry I can't be of more help.
@Aptem Xychnrpob I am in the same boat. Mine blew out a diode on the circuit board. I fixed it with a diode I had laying around and it last for about 2 weeks, then I saw smoke coming out of batt pack. I don't think it was the correct diode that was needed. What a bummer!! Montana Rick.
I tried this with a similar battery and in seconds the red lead started to melt and got extremely hot. Does it matter if one is Dewalt and one is Ryobi?
It sounds like you crossed hot and positive. If not, then it sounds like you'll need to get a thicker lead and possibly put a fuse between to prevent too high of amperage passing through and then only pulse power through until you get the voltage of the other cells up a little.
Also note that the batteries have to be the same voltage rating. You can't jump a 12 volt battery with a 20 volt battery or vice versa because the voltage difference will pull too much current or it simply won't charge depending on which one is being jumped. And make sure to have the correct polarity (positive (+) to positive and negative (-) to negative) or you'll fry something.
Will this work for a 9,0ah that has two bars but will only charge a couple mins before stopping? Also have another 9.0 and 6.0 that don’t want to charge. Bloody dewalt
Yeah, I don't think it would help on the 2 bar batteries. It sounds like some of the individual cells inside died. I had a DeWalt rep tell me to bring in all my 6ah or higher batteries before the warranty period was up because they don't like to last for more than 3 years. I've had the same issue from Milwaukee M18 batteries that are 12ah. Seems like they bigger they are, the more issues they have with charging. Do you have a 3 year warranty on batteries where you live?
What you need to do is hook up every point of contact on that battery while you're trying to get it reset because those batteries are set up to charge and different sections they don't charge as one big 9 amp battery they charge at several 20 volt that's the reason they work on 20 v or 60 v but if you just plug into two wires to it you may have you may not been hitting the right point of that needs to be a little jump to be able to charge
Can any one help me ! With my 30 yeas old Hitachi power tool ? It's still charging but,when I used it why it drain out in 5 minute? It that mean the battery is dead or what?
Yeah, sounds like the battery is shot. You could look for a "new" battery, but it's probably time to move on to a new system like DeWalt, Milwaukee, or Makita.
Are these batteries interchangeable to work with all the Dewalt tools that runs on and uses batteries. How can it be known that the battery is full charged, when charging the red light flashes, so does the red light turn green when the battery is fully charged or it still stays red.
Flexvolt batteries are 20v/60v batteries so they will work with 20v or 60v tools (18v/54v everywhere else in the world). They won't work with the old 18v dewalt tools that have a stem, even with the slide adapter. On the fast chargers it blinks red until fully charged, then solid red to indicate full. The battery packs have indicators on them that let you know what charge level they are at, so that even if the charger stops blinking, you can push the battery indicator on the battery to see if it's actually charged. DeWalt should have made the chargers blink rapidly or something to indicate a bad battery though.
Didn't work. Mine is showing 15.95 volts. I have one bar on the charge level and after the battery jumping it would not charge at all. Then after trying it in the drill it ran. I put it back on the charger and it charged for 10 secs and then was still only one bar and same as above voltage.
It sounds like maybe it's getting a little bit of voltage each time, just be careful that you don't put too much energy through all at once. I've had to do this with four or five DeWalt batteries so it seems to be the most common problem. 15.95 is definitely too low for the charger to recognize, but within range to juice it back up. Make sure you are using an equal or higher amp hour battery and just carefully keep raising the voltage.
@@MyFortressConstruction Thanks for the reply. 2 of the cells are showing almost zero voltage. I did consider replacing those 2 but the cost is not worth trouble. I will keep it as a spare in case other batteries need the working cells.
@@messenger8279 It's good you checked. Sorry that it didn't work out. I just wonder how long those other cells will remain good if they stay connected together without a charge...
@@messenger8279 Yeah, they should be kept at room temperature and voltage should be maintained around 3 volts or so. Honestly, it might not be worth it. Probably better to sell it to someone that deals with bad batteries on eBay or the like.
I'd make a terrible President. I'd tell the truth and fire 90% of everyone, reduce the salary of senators and congressman to a living wage, remove lobbyists and introduce mass polling on different issues, then give all the tax money directly to local governing bodies and use remaining resources to keep major infrastructure and the military in operation. I'd be assassinated in my first week. 😅
I have a battery that showed mv and it jumped to 14v, but it doesn't look like it's going to charge. I will let it sit on the charger overnight to see if there is a change. It may have been to far gone. The crap battery as of now did not live a long life.
Sitting on the charger won't do anything because as soon as it detects low voltage it shuts off charging. I would try jumping it again since it seems like you got it up some. Worst case scenario is that it's beyond fixing. Just be careful.
@@MyFortressConstruction Thanks. I unplugged and plugged it a couple times and it started charging. It shows fully charged now. Thanks for showing how to save $100s of dollars. Happy.
@@Methodical2 Great, so it sounds like the contacts were just dirty. I had this happen to a 5ah a few days ago. A piece of 120 grit sand paper between the contacts can help in that scenario. Glad you stuck with it!
Hello there. I have a battery that I found at worksite. It’s currently fully charged but it doesn’t work on any dewalt tool? I clean the terminals already... any help @
If it was left outside it could show it being fully charged because there's water inside the casing that is giving it a false full charge or messing with the electronics somehow. I would use a multimeter across the + and - terminals to see what voltage is at (fully charged is 20 volts). otherwise look at the battery date code and if it's within 3 years just take it to DeWalt and tell them it won't work.
Did exactly this and did not work on my 2.0 a/h dewalt battery. Not sure what the issue is as this battery is around a year old and has not been abused… who knows… thanks for the informative video though…
Don't know much about PC batteries, but always start with the warranty. However, I assume if you're here that's not an option. So, you will need to take your multimeter and find the positive and negative terminals and find out what the voltage of the battery is at. Then take another fully charged battery and hook up the negatives together and then hook up positive together for a short amount of time and re-check your voltage on the drained battery. This is dangerous as you could explode one of the cells if you are not careful, so don't leave the batteries hooked together for too long (5 second connections at first). If you don't feel like taking the risk then new batteries are the way to go. If you keep hooking up the positive and the other battery isn't changing voltage, then it could be a bad connection at the terminal or something else going on. Sometimes the cells are fine and it's the connections that are preventing it from charging.
Battery full.. or battery low.. voltage should be that same. Its current(amps) that dies out. Hence the "Amp Hour" ratings they give. When a battery is fully dead yes voltage flops out too and it becomes completely dead. Point being you dont measure the functionality or performance for a battery by voltage. Voltage is the same at full or low battery.
I certainly am not an electrical engineer but, from my observance of real world usage, voltage begins to drop at around 50% capacity/amperage use. Lead acid batteries are more prone to this but lithium ion batteries do as well and you can hear it as a motor's rpms decrease.
No, this is factually incorrect. Nominal voltage for a Lion cell is 3.6V, fully charged is 4.2V. The voltage starts lowering immediately with current draw, and current is supplied continuously at an ever decreasing voltage until the battery chemistry has nothing more to offer, around 3.0V.
@@dave38x doing electronics for years I can confirm you and joey are correct, the voltage may drop slightly, but it is the current that keeps you drill going, once drained of current the drill will stop working, batteries are nominal 3.6v and charged are 4.2v.
Wooh, did you accidentally connect - and + together? I've done about a dozen batteries from different manufacturers like this and lead batteries and never had a flame (a small arc when connecting is normal). Interested to hear what you did.
@@MyFortressConstruction I wish I had a picture it's a Bauer 1701c-b and the serial number is 3638 32018 and the blue light is staying on in front of it
@@MyFortressConstruction Nothing to do with using them. Such a low percentage will fail in the first year, so it basically boils down to not having a warranty doesn’t it.
@@benclarkson4205 Yeah, I was kidding. That's just a cheap way for companies to say, "Sorry, tough luck." I have had more warranty issues with my Milwaukee tools than dewalt, but because of their 5 year warranty on a lot of tools (they're changing them to only 3 years now like DeWalt) I've been able to get stuff replaced past when dewalt would.
@@MyFortressConstruction FIVE YEARS!?!?... imagine another 1st world country getting FIVE TIMES less warranty protection, in my case, buying the battery, very lightly using it, it dying after 18 months and immediately being £100 out of pocket.
@@benclarkson4205 Yeah, that's just wrong. My DeWalt rep told me to bring in all of my batteries (5ah and greater) before they're out of their 3 year warranty period and to just tell them they didn't hold a charge like when they were new (which is always true) and they'll give me brand new ones, no questions asked.
Yeah, I watch a lot of videos I've made and think the same. I just have so many thoughts in my head, and a lot of the videos I make are off the cuff when I discover something, so there's no script I'm following. It's basically a conversation that I have, and so I try to explain my thought process and things I find interesting. Not everyone else will though...
It Works!! I just did it on a $225 Milwaukee red lithium heavy high output M18 that wouldn't charge. It now charges and no need to buy a new one!! Thank you so much for this post!!
Always good to hear!
Wow. Used a 14-2 wire to connect for 30 seconds. Plugged my 9ah dewalt. Charging back to life. Thank you!
Hurrah!
This worked. You helped me resurrect my battery. You’re a genius and I look like a hero.
Lol, glad it helped.
Thank you for the video. I have forgotten about this little trick and had a MACTOOL battery that was so low it would not charge. When you pressed the indicator button it would just give a flash and would not take a charge.
My tip to those that encounter this was taking two short pieces of 16 gauge wire or similar and I just pushed the stripped ends into the PROPER locations. After two minutes both batteries showed fully charge. I took this wires off and placed them on the charger until the process was complete.
Wow, you leave them plugged together for 2 minutes? I guess on 18 volt batteries that might be okay, but with the flexvolt batteries I found that pulsing them for 5 second spans or so was the safest way to pick-up the voltage high enough for the charger to recognize them again.
And I thought I was so smart for thinking this up. Lol...
@@MyFortressConstruction I am not sure but I think you sort of wake the battery up. Rechecking the battery it did not hold a charge so it might have a bad cell. I did see that these do not like extreme weather and the battery that failed was left in my black truck during the hot days we had recently so maybe that is part of the demise also. I think the heat is a current draw issue versus volts but not sure. Still messing with this but I did bring my lithium ion car battery back from the dead by using this method.
It's a good video!
What a great tip, I've just tried it on a "dead" battery, worked first time - now charging - thanks!
Great, I've been able to save about 5 batteries this way and they're all continuing to function. One I had to jump 3 times but it's been working fine for about 6 months now. However, I have had one battery completely give up the ghost so it's not always just a low voltage.
When the battery was flat again, the same trick didn’t work, so instead of connecting the battery to another one, or putting it directly into the charger, I connected it directly to the + and - terminals of the charger and it charged up ok. I think the other charger terminals must be doing something to stop the charge when it’s low. I kept an eye on the charger and the battery temperatures in case something blew up!
@@christaylor528 Cool, I didn't even think of that. I assumed the charger wouldn't work without the input from the other prongs. I recently had a flexvolt battery that wouldn't work with just hooking up + - so I hooked up every single prong to the prong of the other battery and it worked that way. Seems like there can be multiple things going on and you have to try different methods to trick the batteries.
I just watched this, tried it on my DCB606 that wouldn't charge, and within 1 minute, it was able to charge. Thanks for sharing!
Ima have to try this. I had a battery with 2 charge cycles die on me. Litterally a brand new battery. I warrantied it and they just sent a new one. Didnt havent to send the dead one which is cool since i can just fix it now
Thank you for sharing, I had two batteries that I thought had died! Both are now fully charged and working. Great presentation
Dude, the greatest !! Just saved me $100-$200 and possibly more in future uses ,this poor contractor thanks you greatly !!!
Great, glad it helped. I've saved 4 flexvolt batteries this way too. They seem to make it to 3 years and then start discharging too low. I had to hook up every pin to another flexvolt battery once when the simple + - trick didn't work.
Just tried this fix on my 80v Kobalt battery, and success! Thanks!
Thanks for the guide! You have saved me about £120! I’m very pleased!
Glad I could help.
Wow , I tried this on one of my tools that wasnt charging and HAY it WORKED Fantastic video thank you
Glad it helped!
I have the flexvolt system and have had 2 x 9amp batteries die on me right after warranty. One of which was sent back only to be told its useless and it was discarded. I've just brought my remaining 9amp battery back to life with this video.
Thankyou so much for your clear and concise video.
Yeah, I've had six do that to me. I've been able to save them all except one which seems like some cells have permanently failed inside cuz I jumped it a few times but now it won't charge completely. I had a DeWalt rep tell me that since batteries won't hold a charge as well as the first day just bring them in before warranty is out and tell them it's not holding a charge like it use to (which is always true since batteries degrade over time). They should swap it out right then and there.
DeWalt and Milwaukee know that these higher capacity batteries have a much higher fail rate after 3 years so now even Milwaukee doesn't offer 5 years on their large batteries. I have 5ah and smaller batteries from 2015 that haven't had a lick of trouble. Never had one fail. It's all 6ah and larger. Glad you saved at least one 9ah.
Well spoken, concise and factual are components of a good presentation. Well done and thanks for sharing this 👍
Thank you for your kind words.
It worked for my dead Makita clone battery ! Thanks for sharing !
worked like a dream and just saved me £100 thank you for the video
Great! Since figuring this out I've saved all of my batteries by either jumping them like this, or leaving them on my charger for multiple days and trying this on and off.
Mine was an original Dewalt that still had one light showing on the gauge. It was down to about 14 volts and the charger didn't like it and wouldn't charge. I have a variable power supply and added a small charge to bring up the voltage slightly and it charges fine now. I think the charger doesn't like to charge the battery once it gets too low, possibly would damage the charger with too much current...not sure.
Right, the charger is checking voltage so once you get it up to within the charger's parameters then it will charge again.
thanks for sharing. I tried it and so far it works. Hope it last's and time will tell
hello, can you help me find a board for a flexvolt devalt 60volt battery, since the chip has failed, the board now does not accept a charge?
Anyone wondering why this works, its because they run lithium ion batterys in series and parallel to increase the voltage and amps from 3.7v per battery to 20ish , and to charge a li ion battery like that they charge cells uneven and one overcharges and bust into flames, to stop this and have them charge within a millivolt of eachother equally they have an internal bms battery management system that measures while it charges and takes voltage from the highest cell and dumps it into the lowest to keep all cells equal at all times, when you over discharge one the bms turns off as it thinks the battery is damaged and dangerous to charge, hooking it up to another thats slightly more powerfull wakes up the bms as it feels the voltage from the good battery and the 20 second boost you put in it keeps it on till you put it on a proper charger, then the bms pulls amps from the charger and lets them to the cells again, reawakening a sleeping bms and saving the battery...
If it is within the warranty period where do you take it to get replaced? Home Depot or is there Dewalt retail stores?
DeWalt has a service website that will either tell you where to ship it or tell you the closest place you can take your equipment to. Batteries can't be shipped so: www.toolservicenet.com/dewalt/en/findStorePage?Brand=dewalt
You're limited in the online tool repair scenarios (has to be certain models and such), but my local center is pretty decent at filling the gap. They've had freight trucks pick-up and deliver lawnmowers under warranty so try calling your local shop and seeing what they can do.
I’ve ran into this because of Airsoft.. they use lipos as well.. it’s come to be known as a zombie Li-Po.. never seen it with drill batteries.. thanks for the upload brother.. best of luck.
What kind of multi volt reader would you recommend?
Any will do until you start getting into electronics. As long as it reads ac and dc you're good. They can be found from $1-$100+ but a cheap one is fine.
I have a 56v battery and it's the only 56v battery I have (a replacement costs $255!). Can I do it with a 20v battery or does it have to be the same voltage?
So I don't know the exact make up of your battery but what I would suggest is checking voltage on the different terminals. It could be that they have a bunch of cells in series that make it straight 56v, or it could be like the flex volt battery where they have cells in series to bring them up to 18/20v and then they connect those clusters in series to bring it to 54/60v. So if all you find on your multimeter is that it's straight 45-56v on your terminal then you can't use 20v to try and jump it, at least to my knowledge. So, I think you'll need to check it out a bit more.
@@MyFortressConstruction Thanks!
I'm only getting 12.2 v across my one and only battery, B+ to B-.
Can I use any method to jump the C4 ( reading 4.2v)? The other C terminals all read 8.1v.
Thanks!
As far as I know, you can take it apart and replace the bad cell or jump it and then put it on a charger. There isn't a non-destructive way to isolate a cell from the rest.
I had a battery that I jumped, charged and it still wouldn't take a full charge (maybe 20% before it thought it was "full") so I just left it on the charger for several weeks and it recovered. So, it's possible that just leaving it on a charger will slowly maintain the cells and could revive that 4.2v cell.
@@MyFortressConstruction thanks. It's still in the 3 year, so I'll try to get a new one.
Also, I'll probably buy knock offs so I can use the one tool that takes these batteries. But I might also try another charger if I can find one to see what it does.
I think I may have run it down too far on an older tool, but after jumping the Bs from a Ryobi 18v, out now shows 17v... But still won't charge on the charger.
I even tried to juice up the C4 from the Ryobi and the B+, but I think the pack was too smart for that!
Security Torx at work tomorrow, and I'll see if I can go directly to the cell packs...
Edit:
The charger is doing a weird two blinks then pause pattern. Thoughts?
@@paradoxworkshop4659 Two blinks and a pause mean a problem power line. Have you tried plugging into a different receptacle on a different circuit? I suppose you could check voltage on that circuit as well, but it could just be a loose connection inside the charger. I had a charger that wouldn't charge and when I took it apart it was a loose connection on the A/C cord and after splicing it together with a wire nut, it worked fine.
@@MyFortressConstruction I looked for this as a trouble code and couldn't find it. I'll try another charger before I do anything else, or fix this one!
where do u get small cables like that? everywhere i look they just have huge jumper cables for cars
I think I bought a multi pack of the little alligator clamps from harbor freight or Amazon and then I just used some 10 or 12 ga. thhn wire I had laying around. You just crimp the alligator clamps, or whatever kind of terminals you want, onto the wires.
Any tips for getting an old Power Wheels battery to charge or hooking up a power tools battery to a Power Wheels?
Sorry I don't, but I know there are lots of videos on that so I would just Google around. Be careful!
How easy is it to ruin the other battery if this doesnt work.I have 2 12 amp batteries for watercraft that are very expensive .One will not take a charge as it got some moisture in it., so I dont want to ruin the good battery?Cheers
If you cross the wires and hook up + to - it could damage them, and if you discharge the other battery too far then it could be damaged, or if you did have too much too quickly and overheat the battery then it could be damaged. But that is why you pulse the batteries and keep checking every 5 seconds or so.
So connecting Negative to Negative and Positive to Positive for around 20 seconds is the trick to get the dead battery going again! Going to try it out now!
Yep, just be careful. It's better to pulse it and check because even 20 seconds can heat up your batteries and overload the voltage.
can this be done with a car jump battery, little used but wont charge
Any battery has the possibility of being revived this way but you'd have to open it up probably to get direct access to the battery. You'll need to pair it with the same voltage from another battery. Just be careful because there's always the risk of fire and/or explosion.
It worked!!!! You saved me 65$
Yay!
My charger shows that my 56v battery is fully charged even at 0%. The battery was at half and it said it was fully charged when put o the charger then, too. And then I used it till it was dead and now the charger says it's fully charged and won't charge. It's a $255 Mantis battery for a rototiller and I hate to spend that kind of money. The battery was only used a few hours but I let it sit in the barn all winter and the instructions said to charge it every month and I didn't do that. So it's not dead from use. Any way to fix this?
Forgot to mention: I would also suggest just leaving it on the charger. Sometimes they trickle charge which is why the mfg. Says to keep it on the charger when not in use. What generally happens is there is a single cell that is at the bottom of the series of cells that takes the brunt of discharge. It will fall below the correct voltage and basically render the entire battery faulty. If you can slowly bring it back up then the charger will recognize it again and start charging the whole battery. I had one battery I couldn't "jump" but left on the charger for a couple of weeks and it recovered completely.
How do you know which one is positive and which one is negative on the slides of the battery?
There should be marks of - and +. If you don't see any then you'll need to use a multimeter to verify. You just need to make sure you don't crisscross terminals.
Just recovered one of my 60/20v doing this trick. Thx
What can be done to help a battery that seems to only charge to about 50%?
That sounds like a cell is bad, but I'd check voltage and see what it's at. Does it function as normal? It could also be a bad led on the indicator but that'd be unlikely because generally that goes completely, not just one diode. If it is still functioning as normal, but has reduced runtime then I would keep using it unless it's within warranty and can replace it.
Awesome tip if I ever need it... Thanks bro 👍
Hopefully you wont, but as a DeWalt and Milwaukee rep told me, just take your batteries in before they're out of warranty and tell them they don't hold a charge as well as they use to, which is always true, and they'll give you new ones. 👍
@UCFpaAK1785W_ZLV9FQjDNZA A DeWalt/Stanley Black and Decker service center. I have one about 50 min. from me in Carrollton, TX. You can call 1-800-4-dewalt to find a place if you can't get on the internet and google the location of your nearest center. Because of Covid-19, my local service center was making exceptions for shipping things and might send you a label for batteries even though they typically don't allow it.
So how do you know that battery does not have a bad BMS board??
I don't, but I have never come across a bad board on any battery. It's always been a cell that was so discharged that it dropped the voltage below the "safe" level of the charger. If it was a bad management board then you could get it juiced back up again and then it would fall too low again, and so on and so forth. I actually had a battery like that that I had to jump 2 times and I thought it was a bad bms but after the second time it's been running fine on its own for about 9 months.
How about my batteries,everytime I put it into my charger the charger say pack charged so its that ok or what should I do about it.?
That's the same issue I had in this video so check the voltage across the terminals (you'll see markings above that indicate + & -).
Thanks! Wish I had seen this before I trashed my Ryobi 5AH's. Because I didn't bother to register the batteries at purchase I was told exchange wasn't an option. It sounds like that is not the Dewalt terms?
DeWalt doesn't require registering, but it's only a 3 year warranty. If you have your receipt they will go 3 years from the date of the receipt, and if you don't have the receipt then they go off the battery mfg. date. They've been great with me and replaced several batteries without blinking an eye.
How about my case sir?everytime I insert my battery to the charger, the charger say pack charged, is my battery is defective?
Yeah if the battery shows that it's only got one bar, but it says that it's full on the charger, then your problem is probably the same as mine. Check the voltage on the terminals and see what voltage you're at. If your voltage is low then you can try to jump it with this method. Once you get the voltage up a little bit then the charger should recognize it and start charging it.
I tried this with two dead Ryobi 40v and it didnt work after charging two minutes. Does it matter if they have different amp hour rating? How long can you safely jump them? Thx.
The amp hour rating won't matter too much though I would try to pull from a larger battery. As far as length of time, I'm not sure what would be safe. I recommend short pulses. You can try to monitor temperature, but if contacts cross or something else happens then you could have a cell or the whole battery explode or spark... Definitely wear PPE and have ventilation if you're concerned.
The only part and input I have is your recharging time is cut in half of what it used to be..
Hey how are you?
I have a problem with my Battery it’s show me full charge but it’s doesn’t work
Have you checked voltage on the battery with a multimeter? I'm guessing you've tried it on different tools already to make sure it's not the tool. Besides that I would try to clean the contacts on the battery with a little sand paper (just slide it in and out). Hope you're able to get it working.
I tried this my DeWalt Flexvolt battery for just a few seconds but it didn't work. Didn't want to take a chance of it messing up my good Flexvolt battery. I might try again and leave it on for 20 seconds and see what happens.
Yeah, that's understandable and I can't guarantee anything, but I've done this multiple times and I've watched the discharge with a thermal imager and they haven't had an issue. Always better to be safe though and do what you're comfortable with. Pulsing for a few seconds is the safer option but with one of my batteries I had to leave it connected for about a minute to get it back. The thermal imager gives me peace of mind when I do that because I can see if anything is getting above 110⁰ F. This is definitely a "Do at your own risk" sort of project though!
My gosh!
18 months ago, purchased a Flymo Contour 20v Li grass trimmer in the autumn, fully charged the battery and then stored it till spring. When I came to use it for the first time, the battery was as flat as a pancake! Tried charging it, but the charger light remained on green and would not charge.
Phoned the vendor Amazon, was unable to obtain through them a new battery under the 2 year guarantee as they are disgracefully unavailable. Arranged pick up of the unused trimmer for a full refund. The carrier arranged by Amazon, failed to pick it up (as they don’t!) phoned Amazon and was told to keep it and a refund would still be applied.
So… I have a brand new unused Flymo trimmer, the batteries are still, unavailable anywhere including EBay..
And then I stumble across this TH-cam!
Followed the instructions using a fully charged Bosch drill battery as the power source, and Wow!!!…the charger’s red charging light is “On” and the Flymo battery is now taking a charge!!
What can I say but many, many thanks👍
Great! Yeah, lithium batteries store the best around 80% charged. This coming winter plug it in every once in a while. Some systems say to leave it on the charger all the time when stored.
So. I need help. I have a battery that will only charge up to one light bar and nothing more. How do I fix this issue.
What brand? Have you checked what it's voltage is? Sounds like the same problem I had in this video. The charger will run for 30 seconds or so and then stop because it's sensing that the voltage is too low. Typically the charger will flash an error code.
@@MyFortressConstruction Yes sorry, I guess I didn’t specify the battery. It is the 5amp dewalt. I’ll check the voltage and hopefully get a clear reading. I looked elsewhere online and it says that it’s probably a bad cell now.
@@aaronmoritz9878 it's possible it is a bad cell but even bad cells can recover. Sometimes they've been discharged too much and they can be jumped back to life. If the voltage is low you can try jumping to get it up.
Thank you! Works mint 👌
My battery just went out. I will try your fix. If it doesn't work i will send it in. I think that my battery is still under warranty. I didn't know that the "Born On" date was on the battery. Thanks for the information.
If you're still under warranty send it in! My "fix" could void your warranty and I only do it as a last ditch effort.
@@MyFortressConstruction I just looked. The warranty ran out last month. Bummer
@@ezelk1337 Yeah, a DeWalt rep told me to bring in any of my 6ah or larger batteries before the 3 years are up because they do seem to last 3 years and then get drained too much for the charger to recognize them. However, if you're careful with this method (quick pulses to bring up the voltage) then you should be able to save all your batteries. I have almost 5 year old flexvolt batteries that are still running because I did this to get them up. Just check and make sure it's low voltage and not dirty contacts keeping the charger from charging it. The contacts need to be cleaned every once in a while.
Where we should take the battery to make the replacement??? Mine its 2019
It has a 3 year warranty, so you probably have until 2022 to take it in.
I mis-read. You are asking where. So, if you call 1-800-4-DEWALT they should help you find the nearest service center.
Penneys work just as well and know sharp blade edges
Who has pennies anymore? 😉
@@MyFortressConstruction I have lots.
Anything for a battery that takes a charge and won’t hold it long term like a newer one?
So you mean, you charge your battery, it sits for a few months, and then when you go to use it, it's dead? If so, then it's probably got a bad cell/connection internally.
The circuitry in the batteries does take a little bit of power every hour and there is "leakage" of current, but it should take over a year for a full battery to be dead from such a minimal draw (amps and voltage play a part in loss so it would depend).
@@MyFortressConstruction it may leak down in just a few days.
@@davekana8388 Most manufacturers have at least a 3 year warranty on batteries, so I would send it in to get replaced if you're serial # was manufactured within that timeframe. Otherwise it sounds like you would have to take off the casing and test each cell's voltage to see if you have a bad cell inside. Could be a bad connection or something else that is drawing power. Good luck to you.
hello, can you help me find a board for a flexvolt devalt 60volt battery, since the microcircuit is out, the board now does not take charge?
Looking through a parts diagram and isolating your part, and then reaching out to a third party is the only way I would think it was possible. I know DeWalt isn't going to sell an individual electronic piece that goes inside of their batteries. Sorry I can't be of more help.
@Aptem Xychnrpob I am in the same boat. Mine blew out a diode on the circuit board. I fixed it with a diode I had laying around and it last for about 2 weeks, then I saw smoke coming out of batt pack. I don't think it was the correct diode that was needed. What a bummer!! Montana Rick.
You are a lifesaver dude
Thanks!
I tried this with a similar battery and in seconds the red lead started to melt and got extremely hot. Does it matter if one is Dewalt and one is Ryobi?
It sounds like you crossed hot and positive. If not, then it sounds like you'll need to get a thicker lead and possibly put a fuse between to prevent too high of amperage passing through and then only pulse power through until you get the voltage of the other cells up a little.
Also note that the batteries have to be the same voltage rating. You can't jump a 12 volt battery with a 20 volt battery or vice versa because the voltage difference will pull too much current or it simply won't charge depending on which one is being jumped. And make sure to have the correct polarity (positive (+) to positive and negative (-) to negative) or you'll fry something.
Will this work for a 9,0ah that has two bars but will only charge a couple mins before stopping? Also have another 9.0 and 6.0 that don’t want to charge. Bloody dewalt
Yeah, I don't think it would help on the 2 bar batteries. It sounds like some of the individual cells inside died. I had a DeWalt rep tell me to bring in all my 6ah or higher batteries before the warranty period was up because they don't like to last for more than 3 years. I've had the same issue from Milwaukee M18 batteries that are 12ah. Seems like they bigger they are, the more issues they have with charging. Do you have a 3 year warranty on batteries where you live?
@@MyFortressConstruction it sure but all my battery’s are stamped 2017. I’m in aus
Very good advice !!!! THANKS.
What you need to do is hook up every point of contact on that battery while you're trying to get it reset because those batteries are set up to charge and different sections they don't charge as one big 9 amp battery they charge at several 20 volt that's the reason they work on 20 v or 60 v but if you just plug into two wires to it you may have you may not been hitting the right point of that needs to be a little jump to be able to charge
Good points. I just find the lower voltage points and hit those, but hooking up every contact would ensure you're balancing all of the cells.
I need to try this.. hope It works for me. Thank you!
Thanks! Going to give this a try!
Thanks I am going to give it a shot 👍🏻
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Can any one help me ! With my 30 yeas old Hitachi power tool ? It's still charging but,when I used it why it drain out in 5 minute? It that mean the battery is dead or what?
Yeah, sounds like the battery is shot. You could look for a "new" battery, but it's probably time to move on to a new system like DeWalt, Milwaukee, or Makita.
@@MyFortressConstruction thank you for the tip. Hate to throw it out but,it is what is I guess time for a new one.
Well you just saved me $40 for a new camera battery. Part of me knew this was the solution since car batteries are no different.
Alright! This battery in the video had to be jumped one more time but now it's functioning like new.
I tried it an it still doesn't work any other ideas would be great
Watch this video. It might help you understand the batteries better and help you problem solve: th-cam.com/video/ewHfuA1J_jo/w-d-xo.html
Are these batteries interchangeable to work with all the Dewalt tools that runs on and uses batteries. How can it be known that the battery is full charged, when charging the red light flashes, so does the red light turn green when the battery is fully charged or it still stays red.
Flexvolt batteries are 20v/60v batteries so they will work with 20v or 60v tools (18v/54v everywhere else in the world). They won't work with the old 18v dewalt tools that have a stem, even with the slide adapter. On the fast chargers it blinks red until fully charged, then solid red to indicate full. The battery packs have indicators on them that let you know what charge level they are at, so that even if the charger stops blinking, you can push the battery indicator on the battery to see if it's actually charged. DeWalt should have made the chargers blink rapidly or something to indicate a bad battery though.
Didn't work. Mine is showing 15.95 volts. I have one bar on the charge level and after the battery jumping it would not charge at all. Then after trying it in the drill it ran. I put it back on the charger and it charged for 10 secs and then was still only one bar and same as above voltage.
It sounds like maybe it's getting a little bit of voltage each time, just be careful that you don't put too much energy through all at once. I've had to do this with four or five DeWalt batteries so it seems to be the most common problem. 15.95 is definitely too low for the charger to recognize, but within range to juice it back up. Make sure you are using an equal or higher amp hour battery and just carefully keep raising the voltage.
@@MyFortressConstruction Thanks for the reply. 2 of the cells are showing almost zero voltage. I did consider replacing those 2 but the cost is not worth trouble. I will keep it as a spare in case other batteries need the working cells.
@@messenger8279 It's good you checked. Sorry that it didn't work out. I just wonder how long those other cells will remain good if they stay connected together without a charge...
@@MyFortressConstruction Should I remove them and store separately.
@@messenger8279 Yeah, they should be kept at room temperature and voltage should be maintained around 3 volts or so. Honestly, it might not be worth it. Probably better to sell it to someone that deals with bad batteries on eBay or the like.
Dude for president.
I'd make a terrible President. I'd tell the truth and fire 90% of everyone, reduce the salary of senators and congressman to a living wage, remove lobbyists and introduce mass polling on different issues, then give all the tax money directly to local governing bodies and use remaining resources to keep major infrastructure and the military in operation.
I'd be assassinated in my first week. 😅
I have a battery that showed mv and it jumped to 14v, but it doesn't look like it's going to charge. I will let it sit on the charger overnight to see if there is a change. It may have been to far gone. The crap battery as of now did not live a long life.
Sitting on the charger won't do anything because as soon as it detects low voltage it shuts off charging. I would try jumping it again since it seems like you got it up some. Worst case scenario is that it's beyond fixing. Just be careful.
@@MyFortressConstruction Thanks. I unplugged and plugged it a couple times and it started charging. It shows fully charged now. Thanks for showing how to save $100s of dollars. Happy.
@@Methodical2 Great, so it sounds like the contacts were just dirty. I had this happen to a 5ah a few days ago. A piece of 120 grit sand paper between the contacts can help in that scenario. Glad you stuck with it!
@@MyFortressConstruction Thanks. I don't know what I did but it jump started the charging. I will get a chance to test it 1 day this week or weekend.
Many thanks. Really good.
Hello there. I have a battery that I found at worksite. It’s currently fully charged but it doesn’t work on any dewalt tool? I clean the terminals already... any help @
If it was left outside it could show it being fully charged because there's water inside the casing that is giving it a false full charge or messing with the electronics somehow. I would use a multimeter across the + and - terminals to see what voltage is at (fully charged is 20 volts). otherwise look at the battery date code and if it's within 3 years just take it to DeWalt and tell them it won't work.
I have same problem whit 9A flexvolt I going try this
Did it work?
Did exactly this and did not work on my 2.0 a/h dewalt battery. Not sure what the issue is as this battery is around a year old and has not been abused… who knows… thanks for the informative video though…
I need help to revive my old 18v porter cable batteries please help
Don't know much about PC batteries, but always start with the warranty. However, I assume if you're here that's not an option. So, you will need to take your multimeter and find the positive and negative terminals and find out what the voltage of the battery is at. Then take another fully charged battery and hook up the negatives together and then hook up positive together for a short amount of time and re-check your voltage on the drained battery. This is dangerous as you could explode one of the cells if you are not careful, so don't leave the batteries hooked together for too long (5 second connections at first). If you don't feel like taking the risk then new batteries are the way to go. If you keep hooking up the positive and the other battery isn't changing voltage, then it could be a bad connection at the terminal or something else going on. Sometimes the cells are fine and it's the connections that are preventing it from charging.
Thanks great tip!
And it’s good for the environment .
15 sek. is enaugh)
was 0.3 stay 19v
began charge)))
i'm happy
🙌
Metaphorically if you have a stick that is not on fire, all you have to do is set fire to it. The problem is, I don't have a match.
I see the issue. Well... Borrow a match?
No, honestly you might be able to use your car battery to do the same thing. But be careful! Messing with batteries is dangerous.
Battery full.. or battery low.. voltage should be that same. Its current(amps) that dies out. Hence the "Amp Hour" ratings they give. When a battery is fully dead yes voltage flops out too and it becomes completely dead. Point being you dont measure the functionality or performance for a battery by voltage. Voltage is the same at full or low battery.
I certainly am not an electrical engineer but, from my observance of real world usage, voltage begins to drop at around 50% capacity/amperage use. Lead acid batteries are more prone to this but lithium ion batteries do as well and you can hear it as a motor's rpms decrease.
No, this is factually incorrect. Nominal voltage for a Lion cell is 3.6V, fully charged is 4.2V. The voltage starts lowering immediately with current draw, and current is supplied continuously at an ever decreasing voltage until the battery chemistry has nothing more to offer, around 3.0V.
@@dave38x doing electronics for years I can confirm you and joey are correct, the voltage may drop slightly, but it is the current that keeps you drill going, once drained of current the drill will stop working, batteries are nominal 3.6v and charged are 4.2v.
Well, this method did *NOT* work on any of my (4) dead Makita batteries. I tried several times and for varying lengths of time. Sorry, not a believer.
I wonder if Makita's battery tech might be different. It seems like they put "brains" inside of their batteries. Sorry it didn't work.
@@MyFortressConstruction Oh, well. It was worth a try, at least! Thanks!
Got what I expected
We've all died and gone to battery hell trying to go green. Time for a Civil War.
time for you to go
Dat's so smot!
Thanks alot
You're welcome.
все працює!
дякую!
Careful! Did this and one of the wires overloaded and sparked a quick flame!
Wooh, did you accidentally connect - and + together? I've done about a dozen batteries from different manufacturers like this and lead batteries and never had a flame (a small arc when connecting is normal). Interested to hear what you did.
What is all that background noise??? I couldn't finish watching.
Haha, I guess I'm just used to it. That's the sound of cicadas in Texas. They are noisy buggers.
@@MyFortressConstruction holy crap man.
there's no date on my battery
Is it a DeWalt battery? Most mfgs have a code that you can get the date from.
@@MyFortressConstruction I wish I had a picture it's a Bauer 1701c-b and the serial number is 3638 32018 and the blue light is staying on in front of it
@@bonniej0 I don't know Bauer's code syst but it sounds like the 32018 might be referencing month and year (March 2018).
Expect in the UK... you get a ONE year warranty 👎🏻
Wow, one year? 3 years seems to be the tipping point for most of these batteries. You guys must be EXTRA tough on your tools! Lol
@@MyFortressConstruction Nothing to do with using them. Such a low percentage will fail in the first year, so it basically boils down to not having a warranty doesn’t it.
@@benclarkson4205 Yeah, I was kidding. That's just a cheap way for companies to say, "Sorry, tough luck." I have had more warranty issues with my Milwaukee tools than dewalt, but because of their 5 year warranty on a lot of tools (they're changing them to only 3 years now like DeWalt) I've been able to get stuff replaced past when dewalt would.
@@MyFortressConstruction FIVE YEARS!?!?... imagine another 1st world country getting FIVE TIMES less warranty protection, in my case, buying the battery, very lightly using it, it dying after 18 months and immediately being £100 out of pocket.
@@benclarkson4205 Yeah, that's just wrong. My DeWalt rep told me to bring in all of my batteries (5ah and greater) before they're out of their 3 year warranty period and to just tell them they didn't hold a charge like when they were new (which is always true) and they'll give me brand new ones, no questions asked.
N
Tried it and don’t work
Go to this video and it might help you troubleshoot when you understand the battery a little more: th-cam.com/video/ewHfuA1J_jo/w-d-xo.html
@@MyFortressConstruction yeah my battery just won’t charge
STOP CALLING PROBLEMS "ISSUES"......
#TRIGGERED
Zzzzzzzzzz
you talk too much, get to the point.
Yeah, I watch a lot of videos I've made and think the same. I just have so many thoughts in my head, and a lot of the videos I make are off the cuff when I discover something, so there's no script I'm following. It's basically a conversation that I have, and so I try to explain my thought process and things I find interesting. Not everyone else will though...
Nope. Sorry. Switched off when i saw the stanley blades. C'mon dude.
Lol. We be redneckin' here bud.
Duh...charge/balance outside of the proprietary system...feelin’ kind of stupid right now!...
Thanks for the insight!
Yeah, well, that's why we have google and TH-cam right? 😄 It's nice to be able to use someone else's brain sometimes...