Another great video! I was going to do this on the B46 but couldn’t figure out how to get the coil connector off. You never did disconnect them but just moved them out of the way. Thought of doing that but never tried it, should have. Appreciate this video again. Could you do a video on replacing B46/48 valve cover with the PCV system in the cover? Engine running rough and I think that’s what it is. 120k now on the F31. Thought it was the tank vent valve like it usually is but that didn’t completely take care of it this time as it normally does. Thanks!
Another great comment! Yeah you really don't need to remove the electrical connector for the coils BUT I did record a quick video today at work showing how to remove the connector easily with a pocket screwdriver and it should be up as a short to watch if I did it correctly. The way I learned to approach each job is to always have in mind that the less things that get removed means the less things need to get installed minimizing any room for error and saving time. F31? Wagon? Dope... I do wanna make a video on the valve cover but I might have to do that job at home if I wanna record it since it's a little more time consuming and worrying about recording while doing that job might slow me down. Any fault codes? You smoke tested the intake side to check for any air leaks?
Didn’t do a smoke test, no smoke machine and no codes oddly enough, just runs rough like it’s a tank vent valve but different. It has positive pressure in the system but when you take the oil cap off it gets better, sounds and idles a little better, that’s what I’m going by or how I’m diagnosing it having dealt with Volvo’s for many years and knowing that the PCV system is built into the valve cover on the B46. Yes, 17 B46 wagon Xdrive, possibly the best car I’ve ever owned but definitely more complicated to work on than the Volvo’s. 1999 sedan inline 5 168hp and 2004 wagon inline 5 300hp turbo. The sedan at 320k still runs great, unfortunately the wagon with 200k and the HP turbo developed a cylinder #3 misfire and haven’t totally figured it out yet but is likely serious. Possibly a burnt valve, cracked block or something else serious like that, has low compression in cylinder 3. It was a great car for the 180k miles I put on it until the misfire, purchased it with about 20k on it. Also wanted to ask you, is it okay to blow compressed air into the plug well even after the spark plugs are out? Did see what looked like rust smoke coming from the wells but won’t that contaminate the cylinder? Really appreciate the reply and your videos!
It does sound like a crankcase issue. We have a chart of possible causes to look at depending on what type of crankcase pressure the engine has, i'll see if I can post it somewhere to check out. Definitely a fun car and I would definitely go with the wagon apart from sedan or even coupe. It sounds like that Volvo gave you all it could though. When it comes to blowing compressed air the answer is yes. As per repair instructions you have to blow compressed air before removing the spark plugs to make sure nothing goes into the cylinder and after removing the spark plugs to clean out the cylinders. And as you can see it does clean them out. I actually look forward to and enjoy that part of replacing spark plugs, not sure why lol.
You technicians love your compressed air! Was once hit square between the eyes from a technician doing target practice on me with the cap of a Motorcraft fuel filter. Came with little red caps on each end that kept out contaminates. Very startling when not expecting it. This from a good 50-75 feet away. We both had a good laugh over it but unfortunately he got in trouble over it and eventually lost his job there about three months later. Too bad Tom was a good technician. Would love to see that chart. Used the mini screwdriver to pull another coil wiring terminal off and it works exactly like you said. Pull the white cap up, place the screwdriver between the black tab and coil, then gently pry up and back and it slides right off, leaving the coil nub intact. Really appreciate it again!
Sounds like Tom was a man with many talents. To hit a shot like that from 50 ft away is impressive. The workplace has been made safer but can't have it too dull. So it took me a while to set it up but I was able to post that technical information that we get on IG. I have the link under the description of both spark plug videos and I'll post here in case it's accessible, let me know if it comes up instagram.com/p/C8gGTDixEAA/?igsh=NjBxY2k1MDZwaTN6 and I'm glad it worked! There's some connectors that won't come out no matter how much you press on it so the pocket screwdriver with that technique will handle any of those type of connectors!
trying out a new camera and video style, let me know what you think of the video overall or if you have any questions
Another great video! I was going to do this on the B46 but couldn’t figure out how to get the coil connector off. You never did disconnect them but just moved them out of the way. Thought of doing that but never tried it, should have. Appreciate this video again. Could you do a video on replacing B46/48 valve cover with the PCV system in the cover? Engine running rough and I think that’s what it is. 120k now on the F31. Thought it was the tank vent valve like it usually is but that didn’t completely take care of it this time as it normally does. Thanks!
Another great comment! Yeah you really don't need to remove the electrical connector for the coils BUT I did record a quick video today at work showing how to remove the connector easily with a pocket screwdriver and it should be up as a short to watch if I did it correctly. The way I learned to approach each job is to always have in mind that the less things that get removed means the less things need to get installed minimizing any room for error and saving time. F31? Wagon? Dope... I do wanna make a video on the valve cover but I might have to do that job at home if I wanna record it since it's a little more time consuming and worrying about recording while doing that job might slow me down. Any fault codes? You smoke tested the intake side to check for any air leaks?
Didn’t do a smoke test, no smoke machine and no codes oddly enough, just runs rough like it’s a tank vent valve but different. It has positive pressure in the system but when you take the oil cap off it gets better, sounds and idles a little better, that’s what I’m going by or how I’m diagnosing it having dealt with Volvo’s for many years and knowing that the PCV system is built into the valve cover on the B46. Yes, 17 B46 wagon Xdrive, possibly the best car I’ve ever owned but definitely more complicated to work on than the Volvo’s. 1999 sedan inline 5 168hp and 2004 wagon inline 5 300hp turbo. The sedan at 320k still runs great, unfortunately the wagon with 200k and the HP turbo developed a cylinder #3 misfire and haven’t totally figured it out yet but is likely serious. Possibly a burnt valve, cracked block or something else serious like that, has low compression in cylinder 3. It was a great car for the 180k miles I put on it until the misfire, purchased it with about 20k on it. Also wanted to ask you, is it okay to blow compressed air into the plug well even after the spark plugs are out? Did see what looked like rust smoke coming from the wells but won’t that contaminate the cylinder? Really appreciate the reply and your videos!
It does sound like a crankcase issue. We have a chart of possible causes to look at depending on what type of crankcase pressure the engine has, i'll see if I can post it somewhere to check out. Definitely a fun car and I would definitely go with the wagon apart from sedan or even coupe. It sounds like that Volvo gave you all it could though. When it comes to blowing compressed air the answer is yes. As per repair instructions you have to blow compressed air before removing the spark plugs to make sure nothing goes into the cylinder and after removing the spark plugs to clean out the cylinders. And as you can see it does clean them out. I actually look forward to and enjoy that part of replacing spark plugs, not sure why lol.
You technicians love your compressed air! Was once hit square between the eyes from a technician doing target practice on me with the cap of a Motorcraft fuel filter. Came with little red caps on each end that kept out contaminates. Very startling when not expecting it. This from a good 50-75 feet away. We both had a good laugh over it but unfortunately he got in trouble over it and eventually lost his job there about three months later. Too bad Tom was a good technician. Would love to see that chart. Used the mini screwdriver to pull another coil wiring terminal off and it works exactly like you said. Pull the white cap up, place the screwdriver between the black tab and coil, then gently pry up and back and it slides right off, leaving the coil nub intact. Really appreciate it again!
Sounds like Tom was a man with many talents. To hit a shot like that from 50 ft away is impressive. The workplace has been made safer but can't have it too dull. So it took me a while to set it up but I was able to post that technical information that we get on IG. I have the link under the description of both spark plug videos and I'll post here in case it's accessible, let me know if it comes up instagram.com/p/C8gGTDixEAA/?igsh=NjBxY2k1MDZwaTN6 and I'm glad it worked! There's some connectors that won't come out no matter how much you press on it so the pocket screwdriver with that technique will handle any of those type of connectors!
After How many km its recomandated to replace them?
Dont quote me on this but from the information that im seeing on this car it should be every 60k miles or 72 months. Whichever comes first.
In my European country it is recommended every 80.000 km or every 48 months whichever come first
Alright so they're replaced 10k miles/2 years sooner in your area. I guess sooner is better rather than later
@@ALLBMW I guess our roads are tougher for the engine. I have done it today works like a charm.