How To Finish a Concrete Basement Wall Using Joint Compound
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ย. 2024
- I demonstrate how I finish a concrete basement wall using general purpose drywall joint compound. I extend a section of wall that I had previously finished using this method from start to 'finish'.
Video Gear:
Cameras - Canon M50 mirrorless camera with 15-45mm "Kit" lens and a GoPro Hero 8 Black
Lavalier Microphone- BOYA BY-M1
Tripod - K&F Concept TM2534T
Braun Dual-Head LED Worklight
Editing Software:
DaVinci Resolve 16 by Black Magic Design
👍👍 I live in the Bahamas and we do this alot. Our building code is concrete block walls so if one want a smooth look joint compound is the way to go. Thank you for sharing.
That is pretty interesting! I learned something new today. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks so much for this comment. Saves me a lot of time and money using joint compound instead of another layer of concrete/cement
Hi Ms Margaret😁my fellow 242ian. I was just rNdomly watching vids and saw ur comment. Not that i refer to actual code,so bear wit me. however,i would add to your comment that,more times than none we use drywall/sheetrock over studs before we apply the joint compound to interior walls. Our climate def wouldnt encourage JC directly to concrete in regards to moisture. Im currently chipping a way a disaster job from this exact scenario. This guy in yhe vid may live in some cold or non humid country/state/province to allow it to last longer.Nonetheless, cant is too strong of a word to use,it certainly can be done but i think especially nowadays there are more intricate mixed compounds that would allow for a better application. Just my 2 cents mam u very well know more of the actual code than me.
With love from "roun da corna"❤
@@ZereauxC u a Carey u might be 242ian too✊✊
@@KevinTaberski texture is for sissies!lol that was funny. You might have a lil 242(Bahamian) in you too sir. 😅 Thanks for sharing.
Drywall compound chemically is calcium sulfate. I would use quick setting 'hot mud' or as others have pointed out Structolight plaster which is calcium sulfate with lime added to it. If you're worried about moisture there is a Drylock alternative making a waterproof cement paint by mixing 3 parts white portland cement to 5 parts hydrated lime to 1 part calcium chloride, mix with water until a thick paint consistency. Wet the walls first so that it will stick and brush or roll on. This recipe was originally found in the older edition of Taunton's Concrete
This is some really useful information! All of these great tips 'almost' make me wish I had another basement wall to finish. Thanks for posting - I'm sure someone else may use your tips.
Phenomenal video!
I'm planning to retouch my horrible concrete basement walls and drywall mud was my first suggestion but I didn't know how to go about and apply it without flaking off.
The end product you showed looks amazing.
Thank you for the comment! Make sure you do not have a moisture problem if using drywall mud (joint compound). The key is no moisture and a reasonably clean surface.
FWIW - my wall still looks amazing!
Good luck!
This was an informative video. I appreciated your discussion about the project and why you made certain decisions. Thank you!
Thank you for taking the time to comment. I'm happy to hear you found it informative.
Poured walls do well with just a white stucco color coat; you can also get white Portland cement and make your own with some ultra fine white/light sand for some added strength. A little lime added will also help with flexibility. We used to just white wash our walls with some lime slurry. I’ve also done this with a 45 minute setting compound to about a slightly thicker than paint consistency, rolled on, and smoothed with a trowel, knife, or squeegee; I actually like Marshalltown’s skimming squeegee for this as it’s fast and leaves a nice surface. One nice thing about using gypsum plasters (joint compound) is they’re sand-able whereas most lime and concrete products aren’t and take more skill to apply. You can also hit any holes/voids with a fast setting hydronic cement first. I live in NY and we use CMT (cinder or concrete blocks) quite a bit especially in garages where this type of finish is fast and inexpensive compared to say a scratch, brown, and color coat of stucco or even a skim or skim and color coat. I’d avoid all purpose of topping muds for this as they shrink too much and also re-hydrate too easily; if you’re going to do this I’d use a setting at a minimum or mix in some plaster of Paris as well as some glue to aid with bonding or use a bonding agent. An acrylic concrete bonding agent can help with adhesion as well as with water permeation though interior solutions are never an absolute or even good fix for water ingress but something can be better than nothing.
Chris - Thank you for all of this in-depth information. I wish I had known half as much 16+ years ago as I've learned in the past few months and wish I had another finishing project to use this information. Hopefully, some viewers of this video will read through the comments and benefit from all this knowledge and experience. Thanks again!
So I am trying to do the same thing. After doing my research, I was told to put a cement all purpose primer that is mildew resistant to moisture, first. Then put whatever it is you are going to use.
I recently found a product called, quikwall cement with fiber glass in it. So far it has held up. There's an interesting video on that on TH-cam.
Excellent! I’m happy to hear that you found a product that will help seal the concrete. I appreciate the feedback and good luck with your project.
I did this to my walls in basement. It worked fine. I primed it them painted it. I don't have moisture issue. Thank you for information
I'm happy to hear you found my video informative. Thank you for posting!
I would recommend to thin the mud apply it with a roller, use a 12” blade to skim it, would go much faster
Ed - the roller sounds like a good idea. The key is to fill all the voids. Thanks for the tip!
You can do the same thing with portland cement. Its a fine power. You can make it into a joint compound consistency. You can make it just as smooth and work with it just as long. And it cfan get wet after it dries without worry
I would never have thought to use Portland on its own. I would expect it to set-up WAY too quick.
I would love to see a demonstration using just Portland. If it works as well as you suggest - I wish I had another wall to try it on!
Any takers?
@@KevinTaberski I do a bit of concrete work. Just portland does not setup fast. Mix it to a consistency a bit more fluid than drywall mud, it will give you 40 min working time easy
@@franksfamily I believe you - I'm just surprised that this is the case.
Unfortunately, I don't have any projects involving concrete in my near future - so I don't have ready access to Portland. I wish I could experiment.
Maybe - if I get bored - I'll buy a bag of Portland and give it a try.
Thanks again for the tip!
Had me at 3 inch drywall knife , hence the (16 years later) "sponge Bob voice"
Nice vdo
If concrete wasn't so abrasive, I may have used a bigger knife - just didn't care to abuse my good knives. With respect to my "Sponge Bob voice" - I'm flattered! One can only hope to be compared to Tom Kenny. Thanks for posting!
I like the comparison at 12:30 between what you did and what was before. It is a big difference.
Yes - most of the improvement comes from knocking down the high spots and filling-in the voids. The rest is just icing on the cake, which really makes the results stand-out.
Where was this video a month ago when i was looking into how to plumb and make a nice finished wall surface? I started using hot (setting) mud already 😅
@@ThinkerTinker74 It’s been lurking about hiding in the shadows of TH-cam’s servers. I’m glad it finally found you! Thanks for posting and good luck with your project.
Thanks! This might solve a problem I'm having with painting a backdrop to my o-guage layout..
Interesting use case. Thank you for the feedback and good luck!
Awesome video - Thank you!...and the comments below are very helpful. gotta luv youtube
Thanks - I really appreciate you taking the time to read the comments and reply!
I wish I saw this video before I stared smoothing out two concrete walls in my garage.Im on the second wall now and will use your technique. Looking how you did it I did a lot unnecessary standing in dust. I did primer all the walls before applying joint compound Thank you for your video
Paul - I believe you are the first viewer that actually attempted to do what I did. I am very interested to hear how it goes for you. Thank you for posting!
Speeding it up to 1.5 makes this presentation enjoyable. My youtube education is way too precious to wait around.
I'd like to think I'm learning as I record more videos. Thank you for the feedback!
Amazing work!! Thanks for sharing 💛💛💛💛
Thank you very much! I appreciate the feedback.
I was looking for a video on skim coating white modified thinset mortar on cement board with drywall joint compound. I found your video. I wonder, could you skim your cement wall with white modified thinset, then do a final skim with drywall joint compound?
A trick I learned, from Vancouver Carpenter here on TH-cam, is to add white glue to the water of the joint compound mix. That little trick has added strength to seams and repairs and build outs. I even use thinned white glue to repair torn paper facing on drywall prior to mudding. It dries hard as rock, so I wouldn't suggest the glue additive to final skim coats.
As I've learned since posting this video, there are a number of products and techniques that one can use. It all depends on the condition of the surface, the level of moisture/water present and the level of finish you are attempting to achieve. Common terms are 'parging' and 'rendering', both of which tend to use heavy aggregate/filler (typically sand) in the mud/mortar than I wanted.
Depending on your situation - wetness of the environment - thinset may prove a worthy material. If I had to do my basement again, I would apply the first coat with a material that contains cement (portland) with a fine filler, then apply joint-compound for my finish coats.
Good luck and thank you for posting!
Thank you. This is a nice demonstration.
I really appreciate the feedback - Thanks!
Interesting video and I like the fact that Kevin is thinking "out of the Box." However, I live in Michigan. No way would this work in Michigan. With the Great Lakes surrounding us, we have water literally everywhere. This is combined with a high water table. Our house has a "Michigan Basement," which goes down only halfway into the ground with the rest above grade. None the less, I still get a lot of moisture coming in. I am presently painting my basement with Drylock Extreme. It seems to be working very well and basement is much dryer. I don't know how long it will last though, because as they say - "Water Always Wins!". I could see this video's technique working in Las Vegas.
I totally agree! I'm hopeful that someone actually tries this using a more appropriate material and reports back - or better yet posts a video. Thanks for sharing.
You could use henry feather finish the one that self seals
@@pearlperlitavenegas2023 I had never heard of this product before - but it looks quite promising! Is this the one you are thinking of?
www.wwhenry.com/product/henry-549-featherfinish/
Thanks!
Thank goodness I found this video. I thought I was using concrete on the walls in the basement to touch up a crumbling bathroom but it looks like it was joint compound! Oops. Well it worked :) but now worried about sustainability. Time will tell!
I suspect how well it holds-up for you will be a function of how much moisture you have. If moisture was the cause of the 'crumbling', then not so much. Good luck and thanks for posting.
this is so helpful thank you
You're welcome!
Well done, very helpful content
Thank you for the positive feedback!
I actually found this informative 😂
Excellent!
I was thinking if you paint the wall with dry lox paint to seal out moisture first that may help .
Ken - I'm not familiar with Dry Lox, but as it's a paint I would expect one would have the same problem with working it into the voids/pores of the concrete. Based on my continued research on this subject - I think some form of plaster as is used in lath and plaster might be a good choice at least for the first couple of coats. The remaining question (for me) is what IS the plaster and where is it obtained. The term 'parging' kind of covers the process, but the examples that I've seen to date result in too coarse of a finish for my liking.
We're wanting to do this in our unfinished basement. What's the cost comparison to drywall?
I would expect drywall to be more expensive - but this is not a fair comparison. A framed wall covered with drywall provides a much different finish - and far superior in my opinion. The only reason that I used this method in my utility room is because it IS a utility space. I ultimately framed the remaining walls which I insulated and covered with drywall.
I hope this helps.
do you think you could do this to cover the lines of the cinder block walls?
I do! Every time I see a cinder block wall - especially one that is unpainted and well laid-up - I think, wouldn't it look better finished?
It may (WILL) take a LOT of mud, but it could be worth it.
If it's below grade - definitely consider using something with cement (portland) in the mix. Research 'Parging' and 'Rendering' - in which case sand is typically used in the mix.
Good luck and thank you for the question.
Hi Kevin, thank you for providing this informational content. Could you share the time spent finishing that section of wall?
Vincent - I probably spent a couple of weeks - of evenings - finishing this section. Not that it took that much time, but I applied more coats then any rational person would likely apply. The biggest/longest step is the prep - especially knocking-down the high spots. Once the first coat is applied, the rest is just like skim coating a textured wall. That said, it is a labor of love!
Thanks for the question.
@@KevinTaberski Thank you for the prompt reply! Knowing what you do now, would you have still performed this method, parging or stucco instead?
@@vincentye72 - Based on the condition of my walls (i.e. relatively flat and even), I would still use this method, but I would select a material that was more water resistant, but still fairly thin - so closer to parging I think - but only for the first coat or two. Then, I would still consider switching to drywall mud (unless I found something else) to get it nice and smooth because it is sandable. Unfortunately, I do not have another application for this method. FWIW - I now have the basement near finished (all the walls are framed, drywalled and painted) and the wall in this video still looks great.
@@KevinTaberski Would love to see a video of the basement when complete. Thanks for sharing.
@@vincentye72 Thanks for that. I've been recording some of my progress, but I haven't (yet) taken the time to edit - as I still find the process time consuming. I 'plan' to edit once the project is complete - perhaps this fall.
Interesting video! Thank you, Kevin. Read through the comments and was intrigued by the suggestion of "Concrete Fill." Unfortunately, when I tried to find CGC Synko Concrete Fill, I've read it is only available in Western Canada. I'm curious if the DryLoc Paint would result in the joint compound not adhering well. Has anyone tried it?
Cynthia - I have no experience with any of the other products mentioned other than 'hot' mud (aka quickset/EZ Sand, etc) while taping drywall later in this project. I have now concluded that they don't hold-up to moisture very well either. I also used portland cement for laying brick and have used plasters in the past - specifically Hydrocal, but I don't know if that would be appropriate in this application . I would be tempted to use portland (perhaps with lime) as mentioned in the comments or do a bit more research on plasters. Also, research 'parging' - a term I was unaware of when I started all of this, but seems closer to what I was attempting to do.
Thank you! I’ll check parging and do some more research!
Ok nice so can i used this same method on sheetrock ceiling.
Anthony, the methods are the same. FWIW - there are many excellent tutorials on TH-cam on finishing drywall/sheetrock - "Vancover Carpenter" and "That Kilted Guy DIY Home Improvement" are 2 that come to mind.
Did u use the powder or one in the bucket . thank u
I used the ready-mixed joint compound in the bucket.
Could you do this same technique with cement blocks?
Tessa - though I've not used this technique on cement blocks, I don't see why it wouldn't work the same. Good luck and let us know if you try it.
Drywall mud is not the best choice to fill concrete! there is a product called Concrete Fill (nick named Con-Fill). this product i used in concrete High-rises primarily on Ceilings so to make them look like drywall. Con-fill is better for for filling and Darby walls voids. it is sand able and paintable. It is tougher than drywall compound and sold as a powder product. When you are doing any drywall work, it is also used in drywall mud to speed up drying and to help fill large voids that require strength
Thank you for this information. Could you supply a bit more information on the specific product - perhaps a link? The only product that I could find is CGC SYNKO Brand Concrete Fill - which is ONLY available in Westen Canada. It also is fiberglass reiforced, so I would be curious to know how fine it is and how well it spreads (see: www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en_CA_east/products/walls/drywall/joint-compound/concrete-finishing-compounds/synko-concrete-fill.html)
To get a better seal on the concrete I would have squirted some wood glue or some other adhesive into the mix of compound... same as drywallers use in taping mud for adhesion. That, in theory, might give you a higher "waterproofing level"... we all know a rubber outside sealer is best for that.
Daniel - I am not familiar with the idea of adding wood glue to joint compound. Thanks for the tip - I look into this.
Elmer's glue also use the green box mud which contains the most glue
So you added 5 coat of joint compound to fill in the holes an the lower spots on wall an then you added 1 coat of semi gloss paint for the finish.
I don't recall the total number of coats of joint compound, but I applied at least 5, but then I applied primer and 2 coats of semi-gloss white paint. FWIW - I could have applied fewer coats of joint compound, but I was going for a nice flat and even finish - it is a personal preference. The primer is important to seal the joint compound and I always apply 2 coats of paint.
Are you saying add the paint in the compound?
Hi Kevin, we have painted cinder block walls in portions of our basement. do you think this method would work to cover those? Is there any moisture concerns that you have to take into account?
Moisture is the biggest concern. However - IF the paint has been there a while and moisture has not affected it, then I would be tempted to try my method. In my (limited) experience, drywall mud covers paint pretty well. I would first clean it real good, perhaps wire (stainless steel) brush it and maybe clean with TSP.
Good luck!
Painted with what (Not Latex?)
Wow, nice work.
Thanks for the feedback!
With structo-lite it is better and it suit you better
Victor - Structo-Lite looks promising. Thank you for the feedback! See: www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/products/walls/drywall/plasters/structo-lite-basecoat-plaster.html
This looks great. How long does it last?
The initial section (~25 linear feet) has stood-up for over 16 years. Works fine, lasts a long time and doesn't rust, bust or take-on any dust! YMMV.
@@KevinTaberski thank you!
Thank you
Can do the same for exterior please
You're welcome! Unfortunately, I do not have any exposed exterior surfaces to work on. Do a search on 'parging' - you may find what you are looking for.
How did you mix the compound an what primer did you used ??? ...
Anthony - I used the All Purpose (green) Joint Compound straight out of the bucket. I did not thin in this case. If there is any water floating on top, I will mix with a paddle mixer in a drill and will add a bit of water if the mud is too thick. I used Benjamin Moore Super Spec Latex Undercoater & Primer Sealer (253). I top coated with 2 coats of Benjamin Moore Regal Select Interior Semi-gloss (White).
Ok thanks alot kevin.
@@anthonyembleton6385 you're welcome!
Seems like overkill .5coats+ drying time?
I can't argue with that, but I had the time and I'm real happy with the results. One of the big advantages IMHO of DIY!
What about a block wall?
I think about this every time I see a block wall now. A couple of thoughts:
I would expect a block wall to be more porous, so if in a basement it needs to be coated with something water proof.
It will take a LOT of material to make flat, which means either THICK coats or MANY coats - especially if the blocks were not laid-up evenly.
I suggest researching parging - I've not done it nor worked with block, but I expect that given time and determination a block wall CAN be made smooth.
Good luck and thank you for the question.
Is 5 coats of compound standard?
I don't know what might be standard or typical for a finish on 'normal' drywall - or what a professional can accomplish. I just keep going until I achieve a finish that I'm happy with. Starting on concrete requires a few more steps. I tend to apply multiple thin coats to reduce sanding.
Most basement concrete walls are very uneven and rough. It takes a lot of compound to cover completely
Yes it can take a lot of compound! One needs to decide for themselves how even is even enough. At the very least, it helps to fill-in the surface voids.
I WOULD BE CURIOUS TO KNOW HOW IT HOLDS UP AFTER A WHILE.
Luc - in this video, I extended the section that I had finished approximately 16 years ago - so it's held-up for me for 16 years. If I had the opportunity to start the entire project from scratch, I think I would now try 'hot' mud/setting mud. I believe it would be more resistant to moisture - though in my case moisture has not been a problem.
My dads has been done like this for ~20 years
Some small spots below leaky windows have a bit of water damage but as long as you put the primer on heavy it should soak in and waterproof it
20 years in a michigan basement says it works
@@retardedsandwich101 - this is great to hear! Glad I'm not the only one to have tried this. Thank for posting!
@@KevinTaberski Is hotmud known as Durabond?
John - I have not used setting joint compound, but I believe it is referred to as hot mud. Based on a quick internet search, I learned that USG (U.S Gypsum) is the maker of DuraBond) which is a 'setting' joint compound, which by extension is hot mud. see: www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/products/walls/drywall/joint-compound/setting-type-powder-joint-compounds.html. USG also sells 'EasySand' - which is readily available in our area at the local home improvement stores.
He said “texture is for sissy’s”………HAHAHAHHAHAHAHA! That was good!
Mark - probably not the best choice of words - but I really dislike texture. Thanks for posting - you made me smile!
👍👍👍
Thank you!
Finish stucco coat or structolite.
Also white Portland cement with color additive thinned into a roll on paint
These all sound like excellent options. Too late for my project, but hopefully useful to future viewers. Thank you for sharing!
Just buy drylock
Thanks for the suggestion!
Why not just grind the wall smooth?
Having ground the epoxy paint off of a section of my basement floor, I can't even image what the process of grinding the walls would entail. Plus, you would STILL have voids that would need to be filled. So, a combination of knocking down the high spots and filling in the low spots seems (to me) the way to go.
Set speed at 1.5
I'll consider this in future videos - thanks!
VERY INTERESTING VIDEO!
YOU HAVE SOME GOOD INFO AND IDEAS,,
BUT,,. YOU COULD HAVE ALSO MADE THE WALLS TEXTURED USING THE COMPOUND,,SINCE THE WALLS HAD ALOT OF VOIDS,,,
OH NO !
YOU JUST SAID IT,,,
"TEXTURED WALLS ARE FOR SISSYS"
BUT ANYWAY
YOU DID A GREAT JOB!
Thanks for the reply. I suppose there is a place for texture - I just found that I could NOT find a contractor that could (or would) provide a reasonably smooth finish. They ALWAYS used texture as a means to cover a poor finish - at least in the area in which we live.
Trowel is easier….. and faster
Makes sense - Thanks!
"Texture is for sissies"
Wake me up when he gets to the point
Tom ... Tom ... wake up Tom! The point is - smooth concrete walls!
@@KevinTaberski thats actually a very serious medicaL condition. Pray for him
@@Lawless187indika LOL!
Water/moisture will ruin the joint compound lol
One would think - but the area I finished when I recorded this video is still going strong - as-is the rest of the area I finished almost 20 years ago. The key is reasonably dry soil & climate, good exterior water-proofing and good drainage. That said, IF I had to do it over again, I would use a material that was more moisture resistant - as others have suggested. The point of this video is that one can 'finish' concrete to make it more suitable for painting.