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It's actually finished. I think it turned-out real nice! I recorded the intro to my last video "Thoughts on Wiring" after it was finished - so you can catch a glimpse of the results there. I have most of the steps recorded, I'm still working through editing my clips. As I'm still fairly new to recording & editing it's taking me a while, but I hope to finish posting videos of the entire project. Thank you for posting!

@@shawgod I’m just a boring guy discussing a boring topic. Merry Christmas!

@@alwayssearching1882 Not to worry - I have an access door!

Given what I've learned from the comments since I published this video. I highly recommend using a product that is more resistant to moisture other then joint compound - at least for the initial coat. I would be REALLY tempted to try straight portland cement. I do not have any experience with block wall construction, but every time I see one now - I wish I had the opportunity to make one flat and smooth. I believe it can be done. Research 'parging' - it should help you learn what is possible. In terms of cost - you may be surprised by the amount of material you will need if your goal is to hide all the mortar lines. Good luck! I hope you report back on your experience. Better yet, set-up a camera and press record!

Thank you very much! I really appreciate the feedback. Merry Christmas!

I'm sorry to hear you are having issues with your locomotive. I have no idea of the rotating RPM of the drive wheels. I see that the Bachmann Trains store carries fewer replacement parts then when I recorded this video. Your best bet would be to replace the entire chassis - a candidate is Model: CH-90037 - but it's NOT cheap! Another option (which you've likely already considered) is to purchase a used locomotive on eBay for parts. If replacing the drive unit with an aftermarket unit, I would hope you could find some discussion of someone that has already done the same. I'm sorry I can't provide more help, but good luck and Merry Christmas!

"Not all heroes wear capes!" and "No capes!" -Edna (from the Incredibles)

Thank you! I appreciate the feedback.

Perhaps - but it does the job!

Good question - it depends! It depends on how smooth/rough your surface is to begin with, how proficient you are at applying mud (whatever material you happen to use) AND how 'nice' of a finish you hope to achieve. Did I only show 5? It was probably closer to 8! As they say - "Your mileage may vary". Good luck and thank you for the question!

That sounds like a really good solution - I wish I had known then! Thanks for the tip!

I assume you mean when I attached the top-plate to the studs. Whether using 16d nails or construction screws, they are driven into the end grain of a 2x4 stud - which does not resist pull-out very well. The 'toe-screws' cross the grain of the top plate - which are far more secure. This is an easy experiment to try if you happen to be new to this. Thank you for the comment!

You are correct! That is an option - but I use both sets of screws on the receptacles on one circuit to feed the input to the next outlet box. If I cut the tabs, I would have another pair of splices (wire-nuts, etc.) - plus 4 pigtails. If I decide at some point in the future that I need to switch circuits in a specific box, I just need to switch from one pair of wires to the other. Easy-peasy! Thank you for posting!

@@Kuragari562 If adhesion is important for your fake brick - joint compound by itself my nat be your best bet. Perhaps once it’s painted it may work. Consider researching ‘parking’. Thanks for posting and good luck!

Thanks - a proper spray-paint booth was a long time coming. I've been using it now for about a year. I think I need to raise the height - maybe use it while standing. Since I own what I bought - it's what I will use. I will say - it works well and is reasonably quiet. Thanks again!

Good point! I've had the (unfortunate) experience of working with hacks - typically more often than not - which is why I prefer to do most of my own work. It seems like many 'professionals' either don't enjoy their work or are so accustomed to having to work fast - that they can't (or won't) do quality work. That said - I have had a few 'gems' along the way. If you can find them - use them! Thank you!

⁠​⁠@@KevinTaberskiagreed Kevin! I’ve found that there’s two different types of DIYers - the ones who do it because they want it done cheap, and the ones who do it because they want it done right. Did my own service upgrade, and while I saved money, I did it myself because I wanted things done in a very particular way - and to a standard beyond what the average electrician is willing to do because of the labor involved.

@@Braindead154 It's the 'particular way' piece that really keeps me from hiring any type of contractor. I can almost never get what I want. I've had a few welcome exceptions. I suppose I'm just picky! Thank you for posting!

I'm glad you found this as well! It appears you have your work cut-out for you. Rats and mice does not sound like much fun. Hopefully - once you get all of that cleaned-up you will be able to design and build a nice space for yourself. Gook luck and thank you for posting!

Excellent! Finally one of my videos is found by someone in need. Thank you!

Thank you! I did leave a gap between the foam board and the floor - for 2 reasons: 1. I floated the walls, so there is a chance that the floor itself will move up. 2. In case we get a leak somewhere in the concrete wall, I would like to know. The gap should allow a place for any water to present itself. Perhaps this is not best practice - but is what I elected to do. BTW - when I say 'gap' - I mean I did not fill the gap that forms naturally when standing-up a sheet of foam board. I did not intentionally raise the foam board.

That's a first! Thanks - I'll take it as a compliment.

I would never have thought to use Portland on its own. I would expect it to set-up WAY too quick. I would love to see a demonstration using just Portland. If it works as well as you suggest - I wish I had another wall to try it on! Any takers?

@@KevinTaberski I do a bit of concrete work. Just portland does not setup fast. Mix it to a consistency a bit more fluid than drywall mud, it will give you 40 min working time easy

@@franksfamily I believe you - I'm just surprised that this is the case. Unfortunately, I don't have any projects involving concrete in my near future - so I don't have ready access to Portland. I wish I could experiment. Maybe - if I get bored - I'll buy a bag of Portland and give it a try. Thanks again for the tip!

Thank you!

@@ThinkerTinker74 It’s been lurking about hiding in the shadows of TH-cam’s servers. I’m glad it finally found you! Thanks for posting and good luck with your project.

I can not offer any direct guidance on your specific application - from what you have described, it appears foam board would be suitable. I suggest contacting your local building authority and see what is recommended for your area. Are you able to reach-out to the builder of your home? Do you have neighbors will house of a similar age? Good luck!

@@KevinTaberski Thank you, I’ll do that. May I ask how do you determine that you need foam board? You just always use it on concrete because why take any risk? or are there instances where you skip this step and why? Thank you, Enjoying channel.

@@RC.56 I added foam board mainly to increase the R-Value of my insulation. After I framed, I also added fiberglass batt insulation. I live in an area where the frost depth is around 30” or so and we experience sub-zero (Fahrenheit) temperatures. Unfortunately, the north wall contains the 2 windows. If I lived in a wetter climate (we see approximately 12” of moisture per year) I would be concerned about mold - that is the main concern with using foam board as it creates a vapor barrier. Thank you for the kind words - it helps me a LOT!

Excellent! I’m happy to hear that you found a product that will help seal the concrete. I appreciate the feedback and good luck with your project.

Good catch! Up until the time I had recorded this video - we had not used the shower. I add antifreeze to the P-trap when we do. Thank you!

Good question! I would prefer a floating/stand-alone deck - I have 2 reasons why I decided to use a ledger board instead of all piers: 1. We replaced the east (left) window well - which is 5 feet deep - along with the water main - which disturbed the dirt in the area. Though it was tamped - I wasn't comfortable with setting piers at the depth that I will and had no interest in digging 5+ feet deep. 2. I have a single joist I need to install between the west (right) window well and the front steps. I have no way to sink a pier next to the house here, so I need to attach to the basement wall. Based on these 2 factors, it just made sense (to me) to use a ledger board.

Thank you for posting! I often learn something I overlooked or didn't know about AFTER doing something - so I really appreciate you alerting me to this oversight. Had I known, I would have used galvanized steel. I need to think how I might correct this - both for my deck and this video. Thanks again!

I'm sorry - I don't understand your question - specifically "blocking 'through' the studs". Can you be more specific?

@@KevinTaberski sorry, horizontal blocking? Not sure the proper lingo.

@@JDillahead I think I understand. Some people add blocking between the studs - approximately at the midpoint of the stud - this could add some stability, strength and stiffness - though I suspect a minimal about - but may also minimize any twisting of the studs. If this is what would meant, I just have never done this - mainly because it didn't occur to me. I'm not convinced it necessary, but I don't see any harm.

@@seereds Thank you!

@@timwhite8013 Wow - what an interesting question! I have never done this and can not claim to know how this is (or would be) done. With the tub setting on the concrete floor, screwing the lip to the floating wall studs would defeat the purpose of floating the walls in the first place. You need to provide a gap somewhere. One possibility is floating the walls from the floor rather than the ceiling - which is to say place the gap at the ceiling rather than the floor. This would mean hanging the ceiling below the gap which would reduce your ceiling height. Plus, you would need to frame the entire basement the same way. I have NO experience with doing this nor do I know if this would meet code. I have to believe installing tubs in basements with floating walls is a thing and that someone, somewhere has a solution. Good luck with this, I’d love to hear your solution.

To each their own I suppose - though I appreciate the feedback!

@@LeperKing1174 Thank you for your interest - it helps!

Excellent question! Adding length to the trailer tongue would be better (IMO) that adding a hitch extension. With exactly the same truck & load and the same trailer & load, the weight on the ball would be less and would be closer to the rear axle. My guess (and once again I'm no trailer expert) the trailer would track a bit nicer. I've seen this done with a horse trailer for this exact purpose. All of that said, this may only make sense if you only haul one trailer that you can modify. Plus, be careful driving over any dips - as the camper overhang can contact the trailer tongue. Good luck!

@@KevinTaberski the "fulton folding trailer tongue" looks intriguing? it folds away when not in use and you're able to make custom length trailer tongues with a 7500lb capacity ...maybe too good to be true?

The basement itself is actually finished! I have ALL my clips - I just need to finish editing. I'm still working on the next video, but got distracted - partly by summer activities, but also my next (and current) project. I hope to get back to my basement videos this fall. Thank you for your interest - it really helps.

Unfortunately yes! Any additional length is bound to add some flex to the system. That said, it will all depend upon the tow vehicle, the trailer and the ratio of the load on the trailer versus the weight and stability of the tow vehicle. In my particular case, the tow vehicle (with our camper load) was significantly heavier than the trailer with load (a 1994 Toyota 4x4 pickup or my tractor) - plus our trailer has a long tongue and tows and tracks very well. I have not detected any additional sway - but I AM increasing my risk when towing. I can not provide any additional guidance I'm afraid - other than to suggest you try it and see. Of course, start-out slow and be safe!

@@KevinTaberski Thank you

@@vitbing You're welcome!

This is a tough one! First of all - this is WAY beyond my experience. Foam Board is meant to reduce thermal transfer, it will not help with moisture and will likely make it worse. If you already HAVE black mold, you have a much bigger problem than controlling temperature. At a minimum, you would need to de-water the soil around and underneath the basement AND waterproof the concrete (including the floor) then remove the existing mold (I have no idea how this is done). Once the basement is sealed, free of mold and dry - then insulating the walls would help control the temperature - but don't forget you will still lose heat through the floor - assuming it is concrete. I really hope you can change your living situation. Good luck!

@@KevinTaberski thanks yeah, we noticed this recently, the basement was flooded few times over the years when there were heavy rains..but we fixed that and everything was fine until recently we checked this basement. We suspect that moisture might come from the other side of the wall from the neighbour since that side of the wall has mostly that black mold and the layers of wall finish material are falling off easily. Its impossible to fix the land outside the walls since this basement is under ground level and sourrounded from all sides with tall walls and infrastracture which would make this impossible...its just a bad base building of this basement I think...

Interesting use case. Thank you for the feedback and good luck!

Thank you for taking the time to respond. I appreciate it and I'm happy to hear you found it useful. Good luck on your project!

Hmmm - I've not heard of anyone using foam board on the ceiling in a cellar. Foam board will act just like a sheet of plastic as far as moisture is concerned. I would expect if you were to do this, your cellar would get even more damp. I would definitely be concerned about mold.

@@KevinTaberski Thank you so much for responding. I'm confused. Foamboard is used for basement and cellar walls, correct? Currently have cellar ceiling panels up that are like particle board (in an old, 100 yr old home). Apparently they absorbed moisture thru the years, and are a bit bowed because of it. Currently use a dehumidifier, try to keep the place as dry as possible. Do you have any other recommendation? Perhaps leave it open with backed insulation???

@@KevinTaberski P.S. I think the cellar walls are made of pressed cinders. Not cinder blocks... This is in the coal region of PA.

@@nancyk5203 Foam board is used for thermal insulation, but it is known to trap moisture. Moisture - if present - needs to be mitigated before installing foam board on basement walls. Mitigating basement moisture is WAY beyond my experience, but ideally you would seal the outside of your basement walls against water/moisture. Baring that, you may be able to seal the inside of your walls. The only advice that I can offer would be to research moisture mitigation for basements in your specific area. What have people around you done for example? Good luck!

Thanks - I really appreciate you taking the time to read the comments and reply!

Thank you very much! I appreciate the feedback.

Yes! The Hitch Extension (HE) essentially amplifies the tongue weight with respect to the rear axle. More importantly perhaps is that the HE amplifies the effect of lightening the weight on the front axle - possibly affecting steerage.

I am happy to hear you found this video useful. Thank you for taking the time to let me know.

Yes it is 120V! At least they are in the US.

Thank you happy 4th of july