One of the more better more proper techniques is about 30% base paint if its not a metallic. Metallics U go a little heavier. If U have an average cheapo gun usually 2 coats is norm and look for oppies misses can come back to bite ya. There are problematic areas when mirrors are left in place as well as where wheel arches stand out notably some of the Fords Hyundai cars got them wheel arch areas that make ya back yourself up some so the gun doesn't give U any mercy as you back away from the panel to readjust your body. This stuff is perfect to make sure you got some color already in the areas. Some times if there is still paint on the panel or car I just concentrate on the worked areas and those sunken areas by the wheel arches is all I do with the stuff and that will save U time & money in the material if U pick up the habit of noticing there are only certain areas that really require this product. Otherwise U can even tint cheap primers too. This stuff also has thickness a body to it as to fill pores and slight sanding marks. Painting a whole panel is one thing but not necessary where there is still the same color present. I mainly use this stuff where I put the body work or got down to bare metal or I got areas where the clear coat peeled up & sanded a heavier. That is what this product is for as opposed to doing whole panels and bumper covers. I mean if its a totally new bumper cover no body work I will just tint a cheap primer sealer it saves cash and comes out fine. It is where body work is right smack in the middle of the original paint is where this product is intended to be used.
I am absolutely amazed at the perfect blend. I couldn’t even tell if it was blended before he even applied the clear coat
I’ve got to say I don’t know a lot about this but I’m picking it up and man what a finish he he paint my car looks really good. Thanks for the video.
Man that guy can paint!!!
Hey excellent paint job , what ratio do you reduce or mix the S1918 blend base ?
It mixes 2:1 with reducer 👍🏻
good video that is that the iwatta series 2 WS400 AND LS400
Hiya for light silver do u mix the blander with the base coat 50 /50
Yep! There are a couple ways to do it but that’s probably the most common.
One of the more better more proper techniques is about 30% base paint if its not a metallic. Metallics U go a little heavier. If U have an average cheapo gun usually 2 coats is norm and look for oppies misses can come back to bite ya. There are problematic areas when mirrors are left in place as well as where wheel arches stand out notably some of the Fords Hyundai cars got them wheel arch areas that make ya back yourself up some so the gun doesn't give U any mercy as you back away from the panel to readjust your body. This stuff is perfect to make sure you got some color already in the areas. Some times if there is still paint on the panel or car I just concentrate on the worked areas and those sunken areas by the wheel arches is all I do with the stuff and that will save U time & money in the material if U pick up the habit of noticing there are only certain areas that really require this product. Otherwise U can even tint cheap primers too. This stuff also has thickness a body to it as to fill pores and slight sanding marks. Painting a whole panel is one thing but not necessary where there is still the same color present. I mainly use this stuff where I put the body work or got down to bare metal or I got areas where the clear coat peeled up & sanded a heavier. That is what this product is for as opposed to doing whole panels and bumper covers. I mean if its a totally new bumper cover no body work I will just tint a cheap primer sealer it saves cash and comes out fine. It is where body work is right smack in the middle of the original paint is where this product is intended to be used.
hello from north Idaho
Hello fellow Idahoan!!! 🤚🏻
@@autopaintplusid4197 how much is a gal of blender
$145 for a 4.5L