.015" at full open throttle as far as "available travel" is key; not .015" gap at full open throttle. You're checking to make sure there's .015" of travel left until the pump arm bottoms out at full open. When you're checking with a feeler gauge, you want to make sure you're not compressing the spring on the adjusting nut and you are actually getting .015" of additional movement on the pump arm.
I have a 4160 600cfm on my stock 302 and it stumbles and coughes and dies really bad unless im high in the rpms! Is it too rich and I need to jet down??
600 cfm is a little bit to much for a 302 as long as it is in factory stock specs!check your vacuum leaks for starters and then adjust the accelarator pump like the guy in this video!also adjust the idle mixture screws.
I have a question on my holley. It had a hesitation in it and I had someone adjust and it got the hesitation out of it but now I have to ease into the throttle from dead stop or it want to really take of like I stomped the gas. Is that a possible accelerator pump adjustment. It wouldn’t bother me to bad but it wants to spin especially if it wet. No posi in it so the one wheel spins easy.
Sounds like it's adjusted well. Perhaps you could relocate the throttle cable position on throttle lever. Decreasing amount of throttle movement in relation the pedal movement. Just be sure to recheck WOT (with engine off) to be sure you don't loose any there. Generally the higher up on throttle arm, the less movement.
Back it off until you have lash, then go back the other way to zero lash. Your spring won't bottom out unless you have something way out of whack. The only way the spring will bottom is if you go to zero lash then keep going WAY beyond that point.
Zero lash the thing and put the dam feeler gauges away. Some where long ago someone came up with that stupid feeler guage check, which is absolutely useless. All that matters is the spring does not bottom out, which is nearly impossible unless you crank the thing WAY beyond where it should be.
Great video and teacher but ,Its just not that simple if you just bring it to zero its under adjusted because play in the squirter lever , you almost have to preload it a little so it squirts of touch new 750 so no its not worn out seems like 10thou on preload to me anyway absolutely need road test car for proper results
Yes a little pre load is ok. But, any preload reduces overall travel (volume) by the same amount. So no more than needed. I always considered zero lash to mean taking all the play out, including the play in lever.
Old video, still very useful for us old guys. Thank you.
Very professional advice in my opinion 👍I'm working on a 65 loadstar with a very old 2barrel holley .. still kicking . 💪
I would be nice if you guys did a video on the secondary metering plate upgrade for the 1850.
.015" at full open throttle as far as "available travel" is key; not .015" gap at full open throttle. You're checking to make sure there's .015" of travel left until the pump arm bottoms out at full open. When you're checking with a feeler gauge, you want to make sure you're not compressing the spring on the adjusting nut and you are actually getting .015" of additional movement on the pump arm.
thank you Holley for the new video on this. you actually cleared up a couple things for me. :)
Thank you ,very well explained
Good Video , I just learned something , thanks.
when you changing the power valve do you have to change the jets at the same time
Nice video Tom!
I have a 4160 600cfm on my stock 302 and it stumbles and coughes and dies really bad unless im high in the rpms! Is it too rich and I need to jet down??
600 cfm is a little bit to much for a 302 as long as it is in factory stock specs!check your vacuum leaks for starters and then adjust the accelarator pump like the guy in this video!also adjust the idle mixture screws.
I have a question on my holley. It had a hesitation in it and I had someone adjust and it got the hesitation out of it but now I have to ease into the throttle from dead stop or it want to really take of like I stomped the gas. Is that a possible accelerator pump adjustment. It wouldn’t bother me to bad but it wants to spin especially if it wet. No posi in it so the one wheel spins easy.
Sounds like it's adjusted well. Perhaps you could relocate the throttle cable position on throttle lever. Decreasing amount of throttle movement in relation the pedal movement. Just be sure to recheck WOT (with engine off) to be sure you don't loose any there. Generally the higher up on throttle arm, the less movement.
So if I have "0" lash at idle but when i open the throttle full the pump arm bottoms out then what do i do??
Back it off until you have lash, then go back the other way to zero lash. Your spring won't bottom out unless you have something way out of whack. The only way the spring will bottom is if you go to zero lash then keep going WAY beyond that point.
Zero lash the thing and put the dam feeler gauges away. Some where long ago someone came up with that stupid feeler guage check, which is absolutely useless. All that matters is the spring does not bottom out, which is nearly impossible unless you crank the thing WAY beyond where it should be.
You don’t disengage fast idle before doing this?
YES! absolutely have the Throttle closed without fast idle.
Great video and teacher but ,Its just not that simple if you just bring it to zero its under adjusted because play in the squirter lever , you almost have to preload it a little so it squirts of touch new 750 so no its not worn out seems like 10thou on preload to me anyway absolutely need road test car for proper results
Yes a little pre load is ok. But, any preload reduces overall travel (volume) by the same amount. So no more than needed. I always considered zero lash to mean taking all the play out, including the play in lever.
Wanna waste money and be pissed all the time? Buy a Holley!
Spoken like a true Edelbrock user D. Aldridge. Must not know how to properly tune a carburetor let alone anything else.
My Holley has never worked right
Holley are great at leaking fuel all over your loved classic
feel free to give us a call and we'll help you with any issues. 866-464-6553
And edelbrock is good at lasting 3 months until the idle circuit gives up 🤷🏻♂️