Eric, I believe the hum is due to the controler having a reastat coil and your 110 voltage feed is leaking back . This is usually due to old unbalanced and misgrounded main panel wiring. Somewhere your neutral and hot feeds are reversed this was a common condition prior to modern electrical national codes. That is one reason that today's outlets and plugs are made with the neutral prong slightly larger to keep reversals from being a balance issue. Simple fix is take a new line from your main panel wired correctly. Neutral , hot and ground directly. This hum will go away and the circuit will be safe.
Hello Eric, have you figured out your hum problem by now? If not try unplugging it and plugging it in another outlet to see if it stop. If the hum goes away then it is your Amps, you are not getting enough amps to your fan and if you leave it plugged in the way you had it you will burn out your fan over time.
Hi Eric, first I want to say that for the 3 guitars I have built, your videos have been very good and useful to me, I wish you sucess! As to the humming problem, you may find it useful to think of the 60 hertz (cycle) hum that you hear in terms of guitar strings. When you pluck the high E string, the low E will also ring to a lesser amount in sympathy. In my work, I used to use a harmonic analyzer to trace problems like yours at the university where I worked. Many times, like John G. above mentioned, the problem was related to grounding issues but really a hard thing to pin down without doing a good look. At any rate, you can think of the air fan moving in sympathy with the 60 hz generated by the temp control. The fan is a good suspect for making that noise, so maybe you could, like the man said, unplug it - or move it to a different circuit. A good electrician should be able to help you make sure you are safe with your grounding.
Hi Eric the strip you are using is a master and slave, first single port is master, as your thermo controller attached to the master as it turns on it controls the other slave ports where your fan is plugged. Hope this is the issue. So if you change your strip to a much cheaper one you will be ok lol. I use one of these for home theatre as i turn on my tv it turns on hifi speakers receivers all at once.
I think you can just avoid using that first port. That should make both pieces slaves and will de-couple them. Because the heating blankets have the potential to draw quite a few amps, I would make sure you have good wiring from the panel to the device. Since most power strips are lower amperage with lighter gauge wire, I would ditch the power strip and wire a 4-plex receptacle in. That should clean up your power a bit. Also, my heating blanket circuits are 20 amp, not 15. I think most blankets are around 1200W, so that's a 10 amp draw if there's not voltage drop in the circuit. I like a LOT of headroom on heating circuits, so a 20 amp breaker with 12 ga wire is the combo I like.
Eric, you've just successfully made me hungry for a Bologna and Cheese sandwich. Lol. Great demo. I just bent my sides a few days ago with a friend's bender and this process.
I have a Jet AFS1000 which looks like yours. So I did a test plugging in my manual bending iron into the same outlet as the purifier. My Jet hummed when the iron (controlled by an incandescent light dimmer switch) was at a low setting. When it was on max no hum.
The obvious solution is to teach the purifier the words…. More seriously, dimmer controls use a variety of schemes to chop up the AC power delivered to the light or heater being controlled. I suspect the induction motor in the purifier sees the voltage kick from the heater control’s internal switching. These spikes surge to the motor’s start capacitor creating enough current to roll over the motor even when it is off. The simplest solution is to run the purifier on low while bending. I have found that my bending iron produces particulate when I bend. I don’t know if it is the steam generated or smoke from the iron’s wooden base. Anyway my particulate meter spikes up pretty high and I run the purifier while I bend.
After some additional tests the hum was strong when the heater was connected to the same outlet as the Jet and weak when connected to the same circuit but connected to an outlet on the same circuit but 6 feet away. When on a different circuit it went away. The suggestion of putting the heater on a separate heavy duty drop cord will work I suspect. Testing with an oscilloscope showed the hum coincided with he occurrence of switching spikes from my dimmer. My bending iron is only 150W at max. A larger wattage heater would probably produce larger spikes, and louder hum. My hum is not very loud.
You have ground hookednup wrong . So what's happening is : When you hook up your controller, the live wire is actually going through the ground and completing a circuit.... Because it's going the the coil of the the controller which is wrapped with a zillion turns of wire , its actually not only completing the circuit, Its also changing the voltage because of all the resistance in all that wire.. That is my best guess... Been there done that .. when only one thing is plugged in , you don't notice it.. But eith 2 things you do .. Heres the bad part .. if you plug in say , a drill press .. it can go into the motor , turning the windings into a transformer ... and actually raise the voltage in your iut let to 250 ir 410v ... of course the amperage would be down and it can also effect the cycle rate ... this can destroy electronic components that are plugged into the same circuit .. I know its a long explanation but it needes to be .
Eric, I believe the hum is due to the controler having a reastat coil and your 110 voltage feed is leaking back . This is usually due to old unbalanced and misgrounded main panel wiring. Somewhere your neutral and hot feeds are reversed this was a common condition prior to modern electrical national codes. That is one reason that today's outlets and plugs are made with the neutral prong slightly larger to keep reversals from being a balance issue. Simple fix is take a new line from your main panel wired correctly. Neutral , hot and ground directly. This hum will go away and the circuit will be safe.
That's much higher than 60 Hz. I think it's a switch mode style power controller which varies the duty cycle to control the power to heater.
Hello Eric, have you figured out your hum problem by now? If not try unplugging it and plugging it in another outlet to see if it stop. If the hum goes away then it is your Amps, you are not getting enough amps to your fan and if you leave it plugged in the way you had it you will burn out your fan over time.
Hi Eric, first I want to say that for the 3 guitars I have built, your videos have been very good and useful to me, I wish you sucess! As to the humming problem, you may find it useful to think of the 60 hertz (cycle) hum that you hear in terms of guitar strings. When you pluck the high E string, the low E will also ring to a lesser amount in sympathy. In my work, I used to use a harmonic analyzer to trace problems like yours at the university where I worked. Many times, like John G. above mentioned, the problem was related to grounding issues but really a hard thing to pin down without doing a good look. At any rate, you can think of the air fan moving in sympathy with the 60 hz generated by the temp control. The fan is a good suspect for making that noise, so maybe you could, like the man said, unplug it - or move it to a different circuit. A good electrician should be able to help you make sure you are safe with your grounding.
Hi Eric the strip you are using is a master and slave, first single port is master, as your thermo controller attached to the master as it turns on it controls the other slave ports where your fan is plugged. Hope this is the issue. So if you change your strip to a much cheaper one you will be ok lol. I use one of these for home theatre as i turn on my tv it turns on hifi speakers receivers all at once.
I think you can just avoid using that first port. That should make both pieces slaves and will de-couple them. Because the heating blankets have the potential to draw quite a few amps, I would make sure you have good wiring from the panel to the device. Since most power strips are lower amperage with lighter gauge wire, I would ditch the power strip and wire a 4-plex receptacle in. That should clean up your power a bit. Also, my heating blanket circuits are 20 amp, not 15. I think most blankets are around 1200W, so that's a 10 amp draw if there's not voltage drop in the circuit. I like a LOT of headroom on heating circuits, so a 20 amp breaker with 12 ga wire is the combo I like.
Eric, you've just successfully made me hungry for a Bologna and Cheese sandwich. Lol. Great demo. I just bent my sides a few days ago with a friend's bender and this process.
I have a Jet AFS1000 which looks like yours. So I did a test plugging in my manual bending iron into the same outlet as the purifier. My Jet hummed when the iron (controlled by an incandescent light dimmer switch) was at a low setting. When it was on max no hum.
The obvious solution is to teach the purifier the words….
More seriously, dimmer controls use a variety of schemes to chop up the AC power delivered to the light or heater being controlled. I suspect the induction motor in the purifier sees the voltage kick from the heater control’s internal switching. These spikes surge to the motor’s start capacitor creating enough current to roll over the motor even when it is off.
The simplest solution is to run the purifier on low while bending. I have found that my bending iron produces particulate when I bend. I don’t know if it is the steam generated or smoke from the iron’s wooden base. Anyway my particulate meter spikes up pretty high and I run the purifier while I bend.
After some additional tests the hum was strong when the heater was connected to the same outlet as the Jet and weak when connected to the same circuit but connected to an outlet on the same circuit but 6 feet away. When on a different circuit it went away.
The suggestion of putting the heater on a separate heavy duty drop cord will work I suspect.
Testing with an oscilloscope showed the hum coincided with he occurrence of switching spikes from my dimmer. My bending iron is only 150W at max. A larger wattage heater would probably produce larger spikes, and louder hum. My hum is not very loud.
And a video of my experiments... th-cam.com/users/shortsDO48TCcTe78
One of your devices has reversed polarity neutral wire is getting power. Probably the heating pad. That’s my guess.
Hi Eric, what is the width of your side slats? Are you making deep body OM’s? They look wider than an OM side? Thanks…
Thanks, Eric. This is useful information. You didn't tell us how long to leave the bent piece of wood in the machine, though.
I've responded to your comment in this Q&A video. Check it out! th-cam.com/video/Ma-I2E0HwkI/w-d-xo.html
Great info Eric. How thick is the spring steel?
You have ground hookednup wrong . So what's happening is :
When you hook up your controller, the live wire is actually going through the ground and completing a circuit.... Because it's going the the coil of the the controller which is wrapped with a zillion turns of wire , its actually not only completing the circuit, Its also changing the voltage because of all the resistance in all that wire..
That is my best guess... Been there done that .. when only one thing is plugged in , you don't notice it..
But eith 2 things you do .. Heres the bad part .. if you plug in say , a drill press .. it can go into the motor , turning the windings into a transformer ... and actually raise the voltage in your iut let to 250 ir 410v ... of course the amperage would be down and it can also effect the cycle rate ... this can destroy electronic components that are plugged into the same circuit ..
I know its a long explanation but it needes to be .
Love from india
Unplug it!
Don't listen to John,your shop is haunted 🤣!