Just came across your channel! Watched all of the build. Very well done! I hope to build a ‘35 Factory Five Pickup Truck at some point in the few years when I retire.
Follow up videos are really important. Glad you put it out there. The car still looks great and I also like those handles for ingress. I have a 3 car garage with 4 cars in it (lift) so things are kind of tight and I find myself sliding into the cars at an odd angle and a handle like that would be perfect. Looking forward to your next project.
Question on your Dakota Digital Gauges and your Tremec transmission. What input did you use for your speed input (VSS, mechanical or GPS). Additionally, if you used the VSS (electronic speed sensor) on the RH side of the transmission, did you ground one of the two wires? Thanks. Bill
Hello Bill, I used the mechanical speed sensor. When you order the Dakota gauges, you select the type of transmission being used-- in my case a Tremec T5. I simply mounted it to the trani and plugged it in via the cable included with the gauges, and everything worked perfectly. I did the manual set-up, where I drove a measured 1 mile distance and hit start and stop on the gauge menu to calibrate it. These gauges are really pretty slick, the set up was a snap.
I have been referencing you videos so much! I just finished my footbox and was looking at mounting my brake reservoir. I noticed in this video it's mounted differently than before. Was the previous location no good?
Hey good catch. While I don't believe I would have had a problem and I have seen many mounted as I had it originally, a few of the "old timers" who know lots more than I do, said to move as high up as you can just to be safe. It was indeed higher than my brake master cylinders originally, but it was close.
Exhaust notes and Autumn colors; that's how you stimulate the senses. From Central Texas it is a long drive to "The Lost Maples" to get some real color, otherwise it is shades of orange and yellows in the ATX area. Very helpful note on the exhaust "leak". I didn't stop to consider what the effect of a "not so tight" ball joint might be. Something similar here too. Great walk around and looking forward to more Random Werks content.
I was just down in the Texas hill area south of Austin last week visiting my parents and brother who live near Canyon Lake. I was thinking how nice it would be to drive around on those fun roads-- after it cools down a bit of course...
Aaron, we have communicated a couple of time in the Forum. I live in North Carolina and we have the same Forte drive train. Would you tell me where you purchased your side mirrors and break light? As always your content is great, I plan to incorporate all of your suggestions in my build. Thank you so much for your time and effort. 👍
Hello and thanks for the nice comment. The mirrors are called "Hollywood Smoothies". I believe I got mine from Summit Racing if I remember correctly. You will absolutely LOVE that drivetrain! It is so smooth, easy to drive--at least until you don't want it to be easy, then it's scary (in a good way). Regarding the brake light, I ended up making it myself using individual LED's from a company called "superbright LEDs". Here's a link to the components units. Just choose red (obviously). At 55 lumens each that gives my third brake light 385 lumens-- which is very bright. The clear white versions are what I used for my reverse lights and just 2 light up the area behind my car nicely. www.superbrightleds.com/catalog/product/view/id/202752/s/bolt-beam-12mm-led-light-55-lumens/category/2/
First of all I love the car! I have watched all of the build videos and they are great. I know you mentioned that you have a size 12 shoe which I do as well but how tall are you? I'm just under 6'2" and have been concerned with being able to comfortably fit for long drives. Thanks for all the videos, Cheers!
Hello Kenneth, Thanks for the nice note. Oh yes, my size 12 EEE feet were a challenge, but with the right shoe and the widened foot box area, I have no problems whatsoever. I've been on a few long drives (300 miles in one day) and have been very comfortable. I'm about 6-feet so not as tall as you, but I don't suspect you'd be uncomfortable. My seat has about an inch more space behind it if I feel I need it, but so far so good. One thing that did help tremendously is to put a riser under the front part of the seat. Its supports the legs a bit better and makes things more comfortable. This essentially tips the whole seat back which changes the geometry a bit so it's worth experimenting with before permanently mounting it. I remember reading on the Factory Five Forum about someone who is 6'3" and he said the car fits him nicely. I believe the earlier kits where more confined, and one of the changes made on the most current iteration increased leg room.
Thanks for a great follow up! I've been wanting to put 3-point belts in since I started my build. Been looking but not sure what brand would work best: belt lengths etc. Would you be willing to put in a link as to what belts you used? Thanks for your great videos and any assistance you can give. Jim C. Kingman, AZ
Hi Jim, Thanks for the note. Here's a link to the seat belts I used. They are from Summit Racing-- part number ALL98115 www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all98115
Hey thanks for the comment. I did two videos on the construction of my exhaust. Check out these two links. th-cam.com/video/DgC1ER1ev9U/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/MbnuzMUmuv8/w-d-xo.html Over all, I'm very happy with my exhaust. it was a lot of work, but worth it. The car has a very different sound, and not so loud that I can't have a conversation while driving, but at the same time, it lets you know something is going on under the hood.
I take it you do not have a heater in the dash? I wondered how well the heated seats would work out. Do you have 2 stage seat heaters or single stage heaters? ( Seat only and seat and back together.)
Thanks for the confirmation. I'm based on Vancouver Island, temperate but with occasional snow in the winter. Sounds like I can survive with a seat and back heated unit which simplifies the build no end. @@randomwerks3763
Hi watched most of your videos. Unbelievable job! I’ve been looking to build a Daytona, coupe from factory five but haven’t pulled the trigger yet. It would be great to check your car Lu sometime and pick your brain about the build. I live in exeter so not far from you.
Hi Brandon, I’d love to chat with you about the build. I’m also available most days if you like to stop by and see the car and ask questions. I did the same prior to my build.
Hey sorry for the late response. The seat heaters are Dorman 628-040. I only used this single kit and instead of putting both elements on one seat, I simply put one on each seat back. The wiring was a bit tricky because the switch was designed for single/double stage (high/low) setting that would normally activate either one pad or two. In my case, I just have a simple on/off for each seat. Here's the link: www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-628-040?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyY6pBhA9EiwAMzmfwRX4FH5Rtp2Iz3-CvjEtMme7yhYs5Ik17XZCSQXpLq2slK9cV2RSnhoCr6gQAvD_BwE
I knew that was going to be the next question :). I'm trying to remember why it was a bit complicated. If I remember correctly, it was a series/ parallel thing between the two pads where in one scenario it was running at 6 volts and the other at 12 volts. But in the end configuration in the car, I believe it was simply running 12 volts to each with a switch. It was a pretty simple thing to figure out with a multimeter. @@bhig959
Hello Brandon, I tried replying via my phone earlier, but it didn't seem to show up in this thread. I'm not sure what you schedule is, but I'm open Wednesday and Friday mid-day for a visit. I'm working from home both of those times this week so if that fits your schedule I'm available
The seat heaters are Dorman 628-040. I only used this single kit and instead of putting both elements on one seat, I simply put one on each seat back. The wiring was a bit tricky because the switch was designed for single/double stage (high/low) setting that would normally activate either one pad or two. In my case, I just have a simple on/off for each seat. Here's the link: www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-628-040?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyY6pBhA9EiwAMzmfwRX4FH5Rtp2Iz3-CvjEtMme7yhYs5Ik17XZCSQXpLq2slK9cV2RSnhoCr6gQAvD_BwE
Wind noise is a problem for sound guys in the film industry (like me). Theymake sound blimps that help, but TBH, you're better off recording engine exhaust in your shop, and just dubbing it in in the edit. The film "Bullit" with the famous chase scene, the dubbed in the exhaust sound from the Ford GT40 for the stock sound.
@@randomwerks3763 I have never worked with a GoPro, but I'm sure they have a wind muff that can go over the mic. What I do in windy locations is boost the filter up to take care of the low frequencies. Wind is low frequency, so boosting the low pass filter up to 250 hz or so can really make a huge difference. Also, brining the mic into the car might help. An good external mic with a good wind muff is a good idea too. I've had luck with my Rycote wind muff on my Rode mic, but that costs $700 or so, pluss a couple hundred for the Rycote. What the pros do is just do ADR, meaning record the audio in studio or in a quiet location, the use your editing software to dub it in.
@@TeddyRumble Teddy, thanks for input I'm going to try a friends microphone that has a muff over it, to see if I can a better recording. I did record a few clips inside the car and from the street in my "1000 Mile Review". Those came out ok, but not great.
What a COLOSSAL waste of time! I made it to 3 1/2 ish minutes...enough. If your mic doesn't function, if you can't record the engine/exhaust OF A COBRA, what possible reason is there for watching this crap? BUT WAIT, there's more...a musical overdub that is beyond absurd! (and I'm being more than kind in NOT mentioning a dash that I swear had Shelby himself moaning from the grave...)
@@randomwerks3763 I wasn't referencing the vehicle, rather, the unfortunate excuse for a video. What's the old saw...'proper planning and preparation prevent piss poor performance.'
I’m sorry I wasted your time. The video was more about a 3000 mile review of the build- and the microphone issue was unexpected- it’s always worked well in the past. My “it’s not a cobra” comment was referencing your opinion of my dash-
![[UNCUT] "บอสณวัฒน์" แฉ! แหล่งซุกเงินแก๊งบอส ขยันผิดที่ไม่กี่ปีก็เข้าคุก l คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ l17ต.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BL56qIfXYZM/mqdefault.jpg)
I cannot even begin to tell you how much I love your custom dash. It looks so damn good.
Thank you very much for saying that. I too am very happy with it.
Love the review and absolutely love the build! The color and interior is absolutely amazing.
Thanks! I had a blast building it and am loving driving it.
Just came across your channel! Watched all of the build. Very well done! I hope to build a ‘35 Factory Five Pickup Truck at some point in the few years when I retire.
Thanks for the comment. This was my “Kids left for college” project.
Follow up videos are really important. Glad you put it out there. The car still looks great and I also like those handles for ingress. I have a 3 car garage with 4 cars in it (lift) so things are kind of tight and I find myself sliding into the cars at an odd angle and a handle like that would be perfect. Looking forward to your next project.
Thanks. And I've enjoyed our conversations over the past year!
Question on your Dakota Digital Gauges and your Tremec transmission. What input did you use for your speed input (VSS, mechanical or GPS). Additionally, if you used the VSS (electronic speed sensor) on the RH side of the transmission, did you ground one of the two wires? Thanks. Bill
Hello Bill,
I used the mechanical speed sensor. When you order the Dakota gauges, you select the type of transmission being used-- in my case a Tremec T5. I simply mounted it to the trani and plugged it in via the cable included with the gauges, and everything worked perfectly. I did the manual set-up, where I drove a measured 1 mile distance and hit start and stop on the gauge menu to calibrate it. These gauges are really pretty slick, the set up was a snap.
I have been referencing you videos so much! I just finished my footbox and was looking at mounting my brake reservoir. I noticed in this video it's mounted differently than before. Was the previous location no good?
Hey good catch. While I don't believe I would have had a problem and I have seen many mounted as I had it originally, a few of the "old timers" who know lots more than I do, said to move as high up as you can just to be safe. It was indeed higher than my brake master cylinders originally, but it was close.
Ah, sounds good. Thank you Sir!🙂
Exhaust notes and Autumn colors; that's how you stimulate the senses. From Central Texas it is a long drive to "The Lost Maples" to get some real color, otherwise it is shades of orange and yellows in the ATX area.
Very helpful note on the exhaust "leak". I didn't stop to consider what the effect of a "not so tight" ball joint might be. Something similar here too.
Great walk around and looking forward to more Random Werks content.
I was just down in the Texas hill area south of Austin last week visiting my parents and brother who live near Canyon Lake. I was thinking how nice it would be to drive around on those fun roads-- after it cools down a bit of course...
Aaron, we have communicated a couple of time in the Forum. I live in North Carolina and we have the same Forte drive train. Would you tell me where you purchased your side mirrors and break light? As always your content is great, I plan to incorporate all of your suggestions in my build. Thank you so much for your time and effort. 👍
Hello and thanks for the nice comment. The mirrors are called "Hollywood Smoothies". I believe I got mine from Summit Racing if I remember correctly. You will absolutely LOVE that drivetrain! It is so smooth, easy to drive--at least until you don't want it to be easy, then it's scary (in a good way). Regarding the brake light, I ended up making it myself using individual LED's from a company called "superbright LEDs". Here's a link to the components units. Just choose red (obviously). At 55 lumens each that gives my third brake light 385 lumens-- which is very bright. The clear white versions are what I used for my reverse lights and just 2 light up the area behind my car nicely. www.superbrightleds.com/catalog/product/view/id/202752/s/bolt-beam-12mm-led-light-55-lumens/category/2/
Thanks for the updated observations. Very interesting 👍
what camera are you using? if that's a gopro 7 or newer it's broken.
It's an older go-pro and I didn't realize the wind noise was so bad until after I got home and downloaded the video. Bummer.
First of all I love the car! I have watched all of the build videos and they are great. I know you mentioned that you have a size 12 shoe which I do as well but how tall are you? I'm just under 6'2" and have been concerned with being able to comfortably fit for long drives. Thanks for all the videos, Cheers!
Hello Kenneth,
Thanks for the nice note. Oh yes, my size 12 EEE feet were a challenge, but with the right shoe and the widened foot box area, I have no problems whatsoever. I've been on a few long drives (300 miles in one day) and have been very comfortable. I'm about 6-feet so not as tall as you, but I don't suspect you'd be uncomfortable. My seat has about an inch more space behind it if I feel I need it, but so far so good. One thing that did help tremendously is to put a riser under the front part of the seat. Its supports the legs a bit better and makes things more comfortable. This essentially tips the whole seat back which changes the geometry a bit so it's worth experimenting with before permanently mounting it. I remember reading on the Factory Five Forum about someone who is 6'3" and he said the car fits him nicely. I believe the earlier kits where more confined, and one of the changes made on the most current iteration increased leg room.
Thanks for a great follow up! I've been wanting to put 3-point belts in since I started my build. Been looking but not sure what brand would work best: belt lengths etc. Would you be willing to put in a link as to what belts you used? Thanks for your great videos and any assistance you can give. Jim C. Kingman, AZ
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the note. Here's a link to the seat belts I used. They are from Summit Racing-- part number ALL98115
www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all98115
Thanks! Got them ordered.
Here's the link for the seatbelts I used:
www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all98115
glad to see a follow up video ,
Hi, nice build I love the dash. Tell me about that exhaust system.
Hey thanks for the comment. I did two videos on the construction of my exhaust. Check out these two links.
th-cam.com/video/DgC1ER1ev9U/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/MbnuzMUmuv8/w-d-xo.html
Over all, I'm very happy with my exhaust. it was a lot of work, but worth it. The car has a very different sound, and not so loud that I can't have a conversation while driving, but at the same time, it lets you know something is going on under the hood.
I take it you do not have a heater in the dash? I wondered how well the heated seats would work out. Do you have 2 stage seat heaters or single stage heaters? ( Seat only and seat and back together.)
You are correct I do not have heat. The seat heaters are a single stage and I only have them on the backs- which seems to be plenty.
Thanks for the confirmation. I'm based on Vancouver Island, temperate but with occasional snow in the winter. Sounds like I can survive with a seat and back heated unit which simplifies the build no end. @@randomwerks3763
Hi watched most of your videos. Unbelievable job! I’ve been looking to build a Daytona, coupe from factory five but haven’t pulled the trigger yet. It would be great to check your car Lu sometime and pick your brain about the build. I live in exeter so not far from you.
Hi Brandon,
I’d love to chat with you about the build. I’m also available most days if you like to stop by and see the car and ask questions. I did the same prior to my build.
Do you have a link for the seat heaters? Car looks great! Higgy
Hey sorry for the late response. The seat heaters are Dorman 628-040. I only used this single kit and instead of putting both elements on one seat, I simply put one on each seat back. The wiring was a bit tricky because the switch was designed for single/double stage (high/low) setting that would normally activate either one pad or two. In my case, I just have a simple on/off for each seat. Here's the link: www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-628-040?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyY6pBhA9EiwAMzmfwRX4FH5Rtp2Iz3-CvjEtMme7yhYs5Ik17XZCSQXpLq2slK9cV2RSnhoCr6gQAvD_BwE
@randomwerks3763 perfect! Is it just basically the 2 wires from a top/back to a FF on off switch?
I knew that was going to be the next question :). I'm trying to remember why it was a bit complicated. If I remember correctly, it was a series/ parallel thing between the two pads where in one scenario it was running at 6 volts and the other at 12 volts. But in the end configuration in the car, I believe it was simply running 12 volts to each with a switch. It was a pretty simple thing to figure out with a multimeter. @@bhig959
Great advice.... thanks for this video!!
Yeah back up lights would really be a must
I work in Portsmouth and York on a weekly basis so that would be great to come by and take a look.
Thankyou,
Brandon
Hello Brandon,
I tried replying via my phone earlier, but it didn't seem to show up in this thread. I'm not sure what you schedule is, but I'm open Wednesday and Friday mid-day for a visit. I'm working from home both of those times this week so if that fits your schedule I'm available
@@randomwerks3763 I tried leaving my number as well but does not allow me to.
Great job...thanks for sharing...
Hey thanks!
The seat heaters are Dorman 628-040. I only used this single kit and instead of putting both elements on one seat, I simply put one on each seat back. The wiring was a bit tricky because the switch was designed for single/double stage (high/low) setting that would normally activate either one pad or two. In my case, I just have a simple on/off for each seat. Here's the link: www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-628-040?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyY6pBhA9EiwAMzmfwRX4FH5Rtp2Iz3-CvjEtMme7yhYs5Ik17XZCSQXpLq2slK9cV2RSnhoCr6gQAvD_BwE
It used to be called A HIGH LEVEL BRAKE LIGHT; HIGH LEVEL, SO THAT SOULS could see them above a trailer or other cars
Take a look at the door bushings on a Miata.
Will do. Thanks!
Wind noise is a problem for sound guys in the film industry (like me). Theymake sound blimps that help, but TBH, you're better off recording engine exhaust in your shop, and just dubbing it in in the edit.
The film "Bullit" with the famous chase scene, the dubbed in the exhaust sound from the Ford GT40 for the stock sound.
I've learned a lot since recording that in October. :) However, my mic was the real problem.
@@randomwerks3763 I have never worked with a GoPro, but I'm sure they have a wind muff that can go over the mic.
What I do in windy locations is boost the filter up to take care of the low frequencies. Wind is low frequency, so boosting the low pass filter up to 250 hz or so can really make a huge difference. Also, brining the mic into the car might help. An good external mic with a good wind muff is a good idea too. I've had luck with my Rycote wind muff on my Rode mic, but that costs $700 or so, pluss a couple hundred for the Rycote.
What the pros do is just do ADR, meaning record the audio in studio or in a quiet location, the use your editing software to dub it in.
@@TeddyRumble Teddy, thanks for input I'm going to try a friends microphone that has a muff over it, to see if I can a better recording. I did record a few clips inside the car and from the street in my "1000 Mile Review". Those came out ok, but not great.
What a COLOSSAL waste of time! I made it to 3 1/2 ish minutes...enough. If your mic doesn't function, if you can't record the engine/exhaust OF A COBRA, what possible reason is there for watching this crap? BUT WAIT, there's more...a musical overdub that is beyond absurd! (and I'm being more than kind in NOT mentioning a dash that I swear had Shelby himself moaning from the grave...)
Yep, not a Shelby Cobra.
But thanks.
@@randomwerks3763 I wasn't referencing the vehicle, rather, the unfortunate excuse for a video. What's the old saw...'proper planning and preparation prevent piss poor performance.'
I’m sorry I wasted your time. The video was more about a 3000 mile review of the build- and the microphone issue was unexpected- it’s always worked well in the past. My “it’s not a cobra” comment was referencing your opinion of my dash-
@@randomwerks3763your video is fine. I enjoyed it
@@TeddyRumble Thanks!