Very nice looking Cobra. Years back I built an MKII. Loved it although as you know you can get in trouble quickly if you don't respect it. ONLY reason I sold it when I did was it was like sitting in a toaster on hot days.
Bradley my man, you are a natural born video star. Great insight, pleasant voice and demeanor, and compelling subject matter. If you don't mind, I'd like to use this as an example of my paint work when talking to new or potential Cobral customers.
You can put 3m clear poly on rear fenders to prevent gravel pitting from the road pipe rock ricochet. I did this on mine and you can not even see them. Easily replace them if they get chips with no paint scuffing.Cheap also.
I’ve seen that done. It does look good. Personally, I’ve had an attitude towards this build where I avoid any extra weight unless I really want it or have to have it, so I skipped a lot of things like that.
@@Bradatp I hear ya. To be frank, mine was a simple, rattle-can spray on "bed liner" application. But it's held up well, easy to touch up, and has reduced the noise of road debris clattering around in the wheel wells.
What a really nice detailed build... I had an MK II that I loved. BUT it seemed to run seriously hot and sitting in it on a typical summer day here in New England was brutal. I know what toaster pop tart feels like. That's honestly the reason I sold it. But what a blast to drive. Miss it but then remember the heat issue. I ended up building a 32 Ford Roadster.
Wow I really really like your build. I will probably use it as a guideline for almost exactly what I want for myself if I ever get to my bucket list. Been wanting to build one since I was 12 and now I'm 55 and still not quite ready. Awesome build though. A daily driver that you can be proud of.
@@Bradatp I appreciate optimistic reply. Unfortunately every penny is going into a new business right now. But it is still part of the big plan someday.
I had an MK II which I loved. The ONLY reason I sold it after 2 years was it was like sitting in a toaster. I never got a top because the older tops years back were ugly. Also it did not like sitting in traffic in the summer. I do miss it though. Maybe someday buy one already build and try and insulate all the panels. Very pretty car you have and helpful overview. Thanks
There are lots of things you can do. Some have installed AC and on the Coyote it's easy. Panel insulation, vent blowers and most effective is blocking the air from traveling from engine compartment into the cockpit. The Bimini tops are popular too.
Blue Loctite is your best friend, every time something comes loose, blue Loctite, it'll take a little bit but you will get all your Fasteners and it'll never happen again
I've seen that others have used that, but I'm not sure of the need. The underside of the body is painted black, but I avoided putting anything else on to avoid the additional weight, as I did with so many other things.
Getting into the comments a little late, but you mentioned going on a long a recent (to the video) trip with lots of altitude changes. Also noticed your Colorado plates. If part of your trip was Wolf Creek Pass in mid-July, we saw you. We were staying in Creede and had headed down to Pagosa for the day. Passed by just as you were coming off the pass and dropping down into South Fork. Beautiful car. Sounds great!
Wasn't me, I have been down that way in the Cobra yet. I was in Steamboat Springs for the trip mentioned in the video. Four or five of us Cobra guys are planning to do that area in Summer 2021 after the pandemic is gone.
If I ever have to pull the drive's side header I'm darn sure going to cut the foot box to do it because those header bolts are a nightmare to access. I can modify it then. Thanks.
Theres a lot of power and rumble in that little car. The original Shelby V8 Cobras had similar issues. The first few thousand miles you'll be re-tightening some things. It's like a kitty cat with a Lion's power and speed.
Thank you. I got the ugly soft top by Whitby motor cars. www.whitbymotorcars.com/product/soft-top/ I had a local guy put a zippered back window on it recently.
@@Bradatp very cool, I’m planning on getting one, I seen superformance offers a top with the zipper back window & love the idea of that extra airflow. Thanks.
Rule of thumb, built not bought, bolt in hand, nut in hand, blue loctite in hand,, problem solved. I'm an ol dirt bike rider. Ride, break, replace, loctite, fasteners never come loose again.. Winning
Thank you for a very informative and interesting video! I really like the traditional look your interior have. I am building a mk4 IRS and are looking for a supplier for a tonneau cover and soft top. Where did you get yours?
Great video. Do you have the stock brakes that came with the kit? I bought a booster kit from whitby, and have had nothing but problems with it, so I'm thinking about going back to the original non power brakes. How does the braking on your car compare to a power brake automobile? Thanks in advance.
Thanks. I upgraded to the Wilwoods at order time, so I don't have the other brakes. I can tell you that you definitely do not need power brakes with the Wilwoods. They stop fantastically without it, however it is a different feel from power brakes on my daily driver, they feel more firm. The way I look at it, with the light weight of this car power steering and power brakes are unnecessary - I did do power steering for different reasons - and add expense and weight.
@@TeddyRumble It was like a lot of things on projects like this where customization is needed. In this case, the hard part was laying out the studs in the appropriate locations, since they can’t be moved once installed. All in all, not too bad.
Beautiful job. I'm new to these and am finishing one. Can I ask what you used to trimthe holes front and rear where the bumper bolts go through the body? Thanks
Yes, those are from Finish line Accessories. If you are building a Factory Five the SS tubes are just slightly small for the grommets and I bought larger diameter tubes from McMaster Carr. www.finishlineaccessories.com/p-106-bumper-grommets-front.aspx
That's a metal cover plate, it conceals the 5 lugs. The spinner is real only in that it spins on to the center piece, it doesn't hold the wheels on like pin drive hubs do.
They are for moving fresh air to the foot wells, one on each side with push/pull shut off valves. They each have their own fan. It took a bit of trial and error to keep engine bay heat off the ducts, but I finally figured out that the radiant heat from the headers was the biggest issue and deflectors fixed that.
Good information, Where did you get your black dash knobs for the lights, heater, vents and such? I've looking all over for them and cant find any. Any info would be appreciated.
I found those through Ashley Hinton in England. They are pricey and you have to modify them, but I think they were worth it for the 60s look. www.mg-cars.org.uk/ah/
They are not required in my, and many other, states. In states where they are required people typically mount white LED strip lighting in various places.
I just watched this whole thing again. Have you noticed any micro-scratches from your top or or tonneau cover? Mine is black, and I have micro-scratches on the tops of the doors just from rubbing from normal jacket arms, etc.
I haven't noticed any, but I'm kind of taking a high level view of the car knowing that it is going to see some use. I'm sure a show only car would be negatively affected by the top, but I think it's worth it for the functionality and versatility.
@@Bradatp I'm searching and can't find that. Can you post a thread link? I LOVE that idea. Also love your cubby. Really nice car. Oh, never mind, I found it in your build thread. Thanks.
No code, it's a custom creation, but what I can tell you is that if you take the Ford Guardsman Blue from the 1964 mustang and remove the black tint you'll get this color.
Looks good, mate - believe it or not, it's time to check and/or re-grease your upper control arms. Likely the most over-looked part of maintaining Factory Fives.
It depends on what your definition of expensive is, but the short answer, at least compared to manufactured cars cost, is: yes it is. The typical range for FFR builds is $35k to 85. It really depends on how much you decide to upgrade and and race components. Go to the Factory Five Racing website and do the build the way you want it. Don't forget you'll still need tires, engine, transmission and paint. I hope this helps.
Technically the new Coyote motor came straight from Ford as a “crate” engine, but I ordered it through Mike Forte’s with clutch and TKO600 transmission. fortesparts.com
@@TeddyRumble Same here. I’ve done the engine rebuild before, but in this case, I like the dependability of a modern engine. It comes down to the use you plan for the car and for us it is traveling more than showing.
dude if your brake fluid is turning brown then switch, to the synthetic DOT4 brake fluid that has a very high boiling point!. then you wont have to worry about losing your brakes!
The DOT 4 brake fluid is is just amber and it gets that way naturally. The reservoir is also in a fairly hot area of the engine compartment, but not hot enough to be concerned about - temps max at about 220°F
I would have installed them even if I wasn't going to use them because I like the original look. I have tried Rain-X for plastic and it only works so-so, but the wipers are very helpful while driving in rain and I've done a lot more since this review was done.
Very nice looking Cobra. Years back I built an MKII. Loved it although as you know you can get in trouble quickly if you don't respect it. ONLY reason I sold it when I did was it was like sitting in a toaster on hot days.
Bradley my man, you are a natural born video star. Great insight, pleasant voice and demeanor, and compelling subject matter. If you don't mind, I'd like to use this as an example of my paint work when talking to new or potential Cobral customers.
Thanks Bart and no problem, go right ahead.
What a great review! Thanks for sharing. Exactly what I was looking for! Great video!
You can put 3m clear poly on rear fenders to prevent gravel pitting from the road pipe rock ricochet. I did this on mine and you can not even see them. Easily replace them if they get chips with no paint scuffing.Cheap also.
That thing is laid out. My dream car and color 👍👍😃
The raw look on the panels is awesome!
Rhino-lined my wheel wells. Inexpensive, easy to DIY, and the look is great.
I’ve seen that done. It does look good. Personally, I’ve had an attitude towards this build where I avoid any extra weight unless I really want it or have to have it, so I skipped a lot of things like that.
@@Bradatp I hear ya. To be frank, mine was a simple, rattle-can spray on "bed liner" application. But it's held up well, easy to touch up, and has reduced the noise of road debris clattering around in the wheel wells.
What a really nice detailed build... I had an MK II that I loved. BUT it seemed to run seriously hot and sitting in it on a typical summer day here in New England was brutal. I know what toaster pop tart feels like. That's honestly the reason I sold it. But what a blast to drive. Miss it but then remember the heat issue. I ended up building a 32 Ford Roadster.
Wow I really really like your build.
I will probably use it as a guideline for almost exactly what I want for myself if I ever get to my bucket list.
Been wanting to build one since I was 12 and now I'm 55 and still not quite ready.
Awesome build though. A daily driver that you can be proud of.
All I can say is squirrel away any and all money you can, I saved for ten years for this.
@@Bradatp I appreciate optimistic reply.
Unfortunately every penny is going into a new business right now. But it is still part of the big plan someday.
I had an MK II which I loved. The ONLY reason I sold it after 2 years was it was like sitting in a toaster. I never got a top because the older tops years back were ugly. Also it did not like sitting in traffic in the summer. I do miss it though. Maybe someday buy one already build and try and insulate all the panels.
Very pretty car you have and helpful overview. Thanks
There are lots of things you can do. Some have installed AC and on the Coyote it's easy. Panel insulation, vent blowers and most effective is blocking the air from traveling from engine compartment into the cockpit. The Bimini tops are popular too.
Sacramento gets to 110° several times a year, and 95° regularly. AC really is a must. Not period though!
Blue Loctite is your best friend, every time something comes loose, blue Loctite, it'll take a little bit but you will get all your Fasteners and it'll never happen again
Dupli Color rubberized undercoating ( in aerosol spray) works really well under fender/wheel well.
I've seen that others have used that, but I'm not sure of the need. The underside of the body is painted black, but I avoided putting anything else on to avoid the additional weight, as I did with so many other things.
Excellent overview/review. Thank you
Getting into the comments a little late, but you mentioned going on a long a recent (to the video) trip with lots of altitude changes. Also noticed your Colorado plates. If part of your trip was Wolf Creek Pass in mid-July, we saw you. We were staying in Creede and had headed down to Pagosa for the day. Passed by just as you were coming off the pass and dropping down into South Fork. Beautiful car. Sounds great!
Wasn't me, I have been down that way in the Cobra yet. I was in Steamboat Springs for the trip mentioned in the video. Four or five of us Cobra guys are planning to do that area in Summer 2021 after the pandemic is gone.
put a small heat shield under your master cylinder and you won't see brown fluid again ;)
And wrap your headers. Makes a huge difference.
Yep did that. It looks good too. I'll do a 10,000 mile vid soon and highlight the upgrades since 3500 miles.
I modified my coyote footbox exactly where you pointed out. It wouldn't be very fun on a completed car but probably doable.
If I ever have to pull the drive's side header I'm darn sure going to cut the foot box to do it because those header bolts are a nightmare to access. I can modify it then. Thanks.
Theres a lot of power and rumble in that little car. The original Shelby V8 Cobras had similar issues. The first few thousand miles you'll be re-tightening some things. It's like a kitty cat with a Lion's power and speed.
Make a cardboard pattern, buy sheet cut it out and wet it with dishsoap . It sticks. Great Perfection. Unnoticeable. You will love it.
Very nice job. What brand top do you have there. I’m wanting to add a top to my FFR MK4. Thanks for the video.
Thank you. I got the ugly soft top by Whitby motor cars. www.whitbymotorcars.com/product/soft-top/
I had a local guy put a zippered back window on it recently.
Ugly is better in my opinion because it’s way cheaper and it looks like the original.
@@Bradatp very cool, I’m planning on getting one, I seen superformance offers a top with the zipper back window & love the idea of that extra airflow. Thanks.
Love the honeycomb cover for the radiator. Can you post a link to find it?
I found it on Amazon: www.amazon.com/dp/B006K8IP6M/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_N1GDX9CBH650QKWH1A1C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@Bradatp Thanks, just ordered one.
Rule of thumb, built not bought, bolt in hand, nut in hand, blue loctite in hand,, problem solved. I'm an ol dirt bike rider. Ride, break, replace, loctite, fasteners never come loose again.. Winning
Excellent video. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
This was very informative and helpful...thanks!
You are so welcome!
I think the cobra was one of the most beautiful cars ever made!
Thank you for a very informative and interesting video! I really like the traditional look your interior have. I am building a mk4 IRS and are looking for a supplier for a tonneau cover and soft top. Where did you get yours?
The top and tonneau I got from Whitby Motorcars at the same time. www.whitbymotorcars.com
Great video. Do you have the stock brakes that came with the kit? I bought a booster kit from whitby, and have had nothing but problems with it, so I'm thinking about going back to the original non power brakes. How does the braking on your car compare to a power brake automobile? Thanks in advance.
Thanks.
I upgraded to the Wilwoods at order time, so I don't have the other brakes. I can tell you that you definitely do not need power brakes with the Wilwoods. They stop fantastically without it, however it is a different feel from power brakes on my daily driver, they feel more firm. The way I look at it, with the light weight of this car power steering and power brakes are unnecessary - I did do power steering for different reasons - and add expense and weight.
Excellent video! Are you still driving the car? How has the soft top held up?
Every chance I get! I use the top for longer trips that are either too windy, cold or rainy. The top has held up well!
@@Bradatphow difficult was it to install?
@@TeddyRumble It was like a lot of things on projects like this where customization is needed. In this case, the hard part was laying out the studs in the appropriate locations, since they can’t be moved once installed. All in all, not too bad.
all high performance vehicles should use DOT4 brake fluid!
Beautiful job. I'm new to these and am finishing one. Can I ask what you used to trimthe holes front and rear where the bumper bolts go through the body? Thanks
Yes, those are from Finish line Accessories. If you are building a Factory Five the SS tubes are just slightly small for the grommets and I bought larger diameter tubes from McMaster Carr. www.finishlineaccessories.com/p-106-bumper-grommets-front.aspx
@@Bradatp thank you
Why do you have those plastic caps over the lugs if you're using the spinner?
That's a metal cover plate, it conceals the 5 lugs. The spinner is real only in that it spins on to the center piece, it doesn't hold the wheels on like pin drive hubs do.
Wow, it’s a beauty! What paint color/code is that?
Thanks. It is a custom paint. We used the original Guardsman blue color and removed the black tint.
What are those cooling ducts for? the cabin ? are there 2 or only the one on the left side?
They are for moving fresh air to the foot wells, one on each side with push/pull shut off valves. They each have their own fan. It took a bit of trial and error to keep engine bay heat off the ducts, but I finally figured out that the radiant heat from the headers was the biggest issue and deflectors fixed that.
Great car. What did the build end up costing
At about $62K I stopped keeping track, but it wouldn't be more than high 60s at this point.
😍 👍
Good information, Where did you get your black dash knobs for the lights, heater, vents and such? I've looking all over for them and cant find any. Any info would be appreciated.
I found those through Ashley Hinton in England. They are pricey and you have to modify them, but I think they were worth it for the 60s look. www.mg-cars.org.uk/ah/
How do the reverse lights work on the roadster and type 65 coupe? I don’t see a reverse light.
They are not required in my, and many other, states. In states where they are required people typically mount white LED strip lighting in various places.
Great build, Coyote always the right choice. "Not good for long trip"- Even the original CSX cars were not designed for long trips.
I just did a 900 mile trip and I won't claim that it's way comfortable, but it wasn't too bad and I won't hesitate to do more.
Except for Le Mans, lol
Where did you get the bracket that holds your overflow? I’d like to pick one up
The radiator overflow tank comes as a kit from FFR: www.factoryfiveparts.com/16576-aluminum-overflow-tank-kit/
@@Bradatp they must have updated it. When I ordered mine it didn’t come with the fancy bracket, just a little L bracket
I just watched this whole thing again. Have you noticed any micro-scratches from your top or or tonneau cover? Mine is black, and I have micro-scratches on the tops of the doors just from rubbing from normal jacket arms, etc.
I haven't noticed any, but I'm kind of taking a high level view of the car knowing that it is going to see some use. I'm sure a show only car would be negatively affected by the top, but I think it's worth it for the functionality and versatility.
Nice report, is your honey comb radiator description in the FFR forum?
Yes, see "Radiator Protection" on post # 370
@@Bradatp I'm searching and can't find that. Can you post a thread link? I LOVE that idea. Also love your cubby. Really nice car. Oh, never mind, I found it in your build thread. Thanks.
@@AdamIsAdam Post 371 click the word Honeycomb, it's hyperlinked to Amazon.
www.amazon.com/dp/B006K8IP6M/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_dlXJFb2BHT7VZ
I must build a shelby for myself !
I love the paint job!! What’s the color code for that blue? That’s exactly the color I want to do
No code, it's a custom creation, but what I can tell you is that if you take the Ford Guardsman Blue from the 1964 mustang and remove the black tint you'll get this color.
Beautiful Car! Looks well built! how long did it take you to build?
Thank you. From delivery to safety inspection was 10 months and that included paint, but lots of mods and upgrades after that.
@@Bradatp awesome! I am thinking about purchasing a factory five cobra and makes me more interested!
Looks good, mate - believe it or not, it's time to check and/or re-grease your upper control arms. Likely the most over-looked part of maintaining Factory Fives.
Thanks for the heads-up, but mine are the new style plus I checked and they are jamb-packed with grease. Cheers!
Are the seats adjustable forward and reverse ?
They can be adjusted to four different positions, but not on the fly. It takes about ten minutes to unbolt and reposition.
I’m curious what the final build cost on these kits end up around.
A basic build will run about $35K, or so I've read. A fully equipped roadster is commonly $65K though.
@@Bradatp After looking at used trucks a couple of times lately, that sounds like a bargain.
@@Duke_of_Prunes don’t forget to value the hours of labor you’ll need to commit.
@@kalasmournrex1470That is a given. No one buys these thinking it will be a cheap daily driver.
Awesome video 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
many pieces seems to be stainless steel and expensive parts. What does it the budget for this car? It seems very expensive
It depends on what your definition of expensive is, but the short answer, at least compared to manufactured cars cost, is: yes it is. The typical range for FFR builds is $35k to 85. It really depends on how much you decide to upgrade and and race components. Go to the Factory Five Racing website and do the build the way you want it. Don't forget you'll still need tires, engine, transmission and paint. I hope this helps.
The average car is now $35k+. This is reasonable, and the basic kit plus engine can be $45k. What price glory???
Where did you get the 5.0 motor, blue print engines seems to be offering only pushrod motors.
Technically the new Coyote motor came straight from Ford as a “crate” engine, but I ordered it through Mike Forte’s with clutch and TKO600 transmission. fortesparts.com
@@BradatpThat is the way to go!
Where did you source your engine and transmission? Thanks!
Mike Forte's Parts Connection. Hands down the best customer service I've ever had! Great guy too. fortesparts.com
@@BradatpThe Coyote is the way to go. I love the guys who buy an engine from a wrecking yard and rebuild it but that is way beyond my skill level.
@@TeddyRumble Same here. I’ve done the engine rebuild before, but in this case, I like the dependability of a modern engine. It comes down to the use you plan for the car and for us it is traveling more than showing.
dude if your brake fluid is turning brown then switch, to the synthetic DOT4 brake fluid that has a very high boiling point!. then you wont have to worry about losing your brakes!
Thanks, it has DOT 4, with Wildwood racing brakes I wouldn't use anything else.
Beautiful car!
Who makes the wipers and top ?
Whitby Motorcars www.whitbymotorcars.com/product/soft-top/ for the top and tonneau. The wipers I got through Factory Five.
What tire pressure are you running?
22 psi. I tried high twenties, but traction is much better at 22.
@@Bradatp
I'll try dropping mine.
Thanks
link to that honeycomb?
www.amazon.com/dp/B006K8IP6M/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_N1GDX9CBH650QKWH1A1C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
you can go a thousand miles an hour, but if you can't stop your screwed. because nothing will make your ass pucker like losing your brakes!.
The DOT 4 brake fluid is is just amber and it gets that way naturally. The reservoir is also in a fairly hot area of the engine compartment, but not hot enough to be concerned about - temps max at about 220°F
I'd think Rain-X would make wipers almost unnecessary.
I would have installed them even if I wasn't going to use them because I like the original look. I have tried Rain-X for plastic and it only works so-so, but the wipers are very helpful while driving in rain and I've done a lot more since this review was done.
That top, when deployed....is hideous.Otherwise, nice vid
Why, thank you very much! That’s what I was going for as the original Cobras looked the same.
@@Bradatp You're welcome...clearly THE car
True. A weak spot for sure. Someone should make a better top.
Boring
Got anything exciting for us?
@@Bradatphaters gotta hate. Mental problems is my guess.