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WHY WE USED 2 DIFFERENT CONCRETE MIXES FOR 1 POLE BARN
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ม.ค. 2024
- Here we are prepping and pouring out a pole barn concrete floor. In this job we used two different kinds of concrete. I explain why we did this in the video. There are also hundreds of tips for anyone interested in how to do this work. Enjoy.
From Georgia don’t you think it’s strange that the people who criticize the most are the ones know the least
I think that’s a universal truth as a contractor I enjoy your channel
Yes the haters on here probably have never even done a sidewalk flag. LOL
Gotta agree with you. Armchair contractors I call them.
Another great job guys 💪
I like to rewatch your videos. This is the second time for this one. I wish I could like it twice.
Welp, your channel paid off for me in spades this week. Had a contractor out bidding several slabs, one for a greenhouse and one for an external pallet rack. I said I wanted the external slab to be done with air-entrained concrete and he looked at me like I had asked him for a ride on a UFO. He went back to the office and their foreman told him that it is a bit extra but if I wanted it they could do it for sure. I live in Reno above the snow line, and it amazed me that their estimator had no clue. Thanks so much Ron for all your educational videos, I'm learning a ton!
That is an awesome story. Glad I could help you.
Whoever critiques your work probably hasn’t done much themselves. I think you do a hell of a job. Keep up the good work and you got one hell of a good crew
Thanks Gary and I have to agree about the haters
I would never put my poles in the ground but your work is amazing I watch every video of yours you would make a killing here in my state
Last week we had to replace 6 poles, due tou excess moisture in the ground and rotted the poles. The building was 40 x 60. My buildings are always on slab with wet set saddles.
ADDICTED TO YOUR VIDEOS. GREAT JOB
Thanks and just keep watching and I will keep making them. LOL
Love the pride you take in your work, and a tought crew too, hard workers.
Thanks.
Another success story. Looks nice. I have some refrigeration talk for the Karens. Thanks for the videos.
I like it when you put the love it your work and you will see it yrs after ! It's your reputation ❤😊
I watch your channel because you say "Here comes the Mud" and also "Hmmm". Good to me.
Awesome and thanks for that. Have some grumpy haters sometimes.
not bad work from a few guys and a gopher!!
Ya Chris every good team needs a biscuit and a gopher. LOL
I called it Mud all my life. I am 72 now and no one will convince me its not mud. I formed poured and finished many yards .my back and knees finally gave up.
It will always be mud to me too buddy. Glad you older concrete guys watch my channel as I will be doing when I retire because we are all cut from the same cloth. 😀
Hmmm Is your trademark. And Her comes the mud. Keep up the great work and videos. The Governor
Thanks buddy.
Love big biscuit, reminds me so much of myself as a kid/young man. Little fluff on the outside but big and strong, and he can work like a horse. Keep on keepin on, hoss.
He is a good worker. Some like his shirt off and some do not. LOL
Those front unloading trucks are so much better than the rear ones. The rear ones with a newby driver are challenging.
Yes for sure we used rear loaders for years now love the fronts.
they called it mud all my life i am 67 years old great job
Then you get it. Some of these haters don't like it when I call it mud. LOL
Great job Bondo!
Thanks DB 😀
Awesome work guys! That pvc drain pipe will support a cement truck, who knew.. I’ve always been afraid to let them drive across em..
Once they are buried a foot and gravel tamped over it they do support a truck.
You and the guys do good work enjoy watching and learning even though I don’t do much concrete work anymore age took over but it’s good to see and watch how you and your team do it . And it’s seems like you’re not afraid of different jobs it’s good to be a thinker and trying different ways .
Thanks David and we are a learning company and I always want to try different things.
Bondo, I look forward to hearing you say," here comes the mud guys". And that Hmmm makes me laugh. You guys do great work, and this is a great channel. Im not too far away from you guys. I live in Camillus.
Thats awesome and thanks for letting me know. I just try and have fun and goof around just enough to make the day go by and the video to be funny. I find that we get way more done and the day flies by if we have fun doing this work.
Great Job
Nice work as always!!😊
Very nice job .... and it's the extras that make you special 😉
Thanks we always do a little extra that was not included for free and I always get paid at the end.
I am a Drywall guy and we call compound mud too 😊 I have aways Did my own Concrete work but I did learn from good friends that just do your line of work and I always have to put the hussel on when the truck rool in its go time I say 😅
Lovely neat job, nice to gravel up to the apron after. Just sets the job off nice 👍 atb to you
Thanks Adam. 😀
Great job, Bondo and crew. Shout out to Circle T. Thxs for the vids!
thank you.
Looks great
Thanks.
great pour bondo !! thanks for the video !
You bet Steve
Man yall sure do good work!!
Thanks Todd
nice work again ron
Thanks
Prefect for Canadian ball hockey !!
Yup LOL
Bondo Bob was kickn your ass. Beer On Brain
Ya beer can do that. LOL
The "mud police" and "wire mesh police" ! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Ya no kidding. LMAO 🤣😂
Nice job guys
Thanks.
Nice job Bondo, I do have to say I know who the identity of Spiderman is now HAHA. That would make Biscuit your side kick HAHA. Btw on the apron did you do a slop in that as well since you sloped the edge with that wood on the floor? Also tell gopher nice job on the brooming, should give him a raise.
Anyway, nice job. Look forward to the next video.
Thanks and yes we pitched the apron about an inch from where the lower part of the door pitch was so water drains away.
good video. We like seeing the cement being pushed around and then finished. Show some of that detail work more often, because i dont know if you've shown yourself grinding the lines further out.
Ok I will try and remember that the next time I edit a video.
Nice job men well done good crew...takr care.😊
Ken can kick rocks with broken glass mixed in wearing sandles 😂
Take that Ken. LOL
Bondo, wish you and your crew were in Eastern Washington... I'd hire you guys... Dave
Thanks Dave.
On door edges, saw where they lay a length of 1 1/2-2" pipe across where the door rubber sits. water wont run over, Mice can crawl under and its straight, seals dont wanna freeze to it either.
Pulling the wire up, but then walking on it, which pushes it down. Should cut some slips of block and put them under, that way it’s lifted and you can walk on it. 🎉😊
The blocks under the wire actually make a weak spot because there is a void in the concrete where the block is so I do not think that is the answer.
@@bondobuilt386 cut them small enough to sit at the X of the wire about 3x3 inch and they won’t be a weak point but will hold the wire up.
pick would be handy
Ya I don't think we brought it that day.
1/16/24..yes am a Subscriber, been watching beginning with insulating yur add-on garage (some 1 component foam & FbrGls). So I enjoy your casual & conversational style with mostly voice over instructional comments & little bit of 'live' chat with guys, all fine.
I also watch O'Dell in SoCalf & Tom Hause in Penn. All of you guys seem to be intermittent using those 'chairs/dobies' to center t mesh before pouring your (x, 5,6 y,z) slump slurry. Hause, doing mostly new construction, large garage slabs & long driveways uses power buggies to transport long distances (up/down hill/slopes) from street to target. Both you & O'Dell are doing big patio jobs & pole barn floors using occasional pump trucks but mostly dual tire wheel barrows. So centering the mesh seems to be a common problem solved by your 'potato rake'.. this issue of centering steel mesh seem to be kinda unwanted 'stepchild' in your manipulating the slurry for 'good enough' purposes given time sensitive nature of events but as an observer, it seems your industry needs a better way to center the wire mesh yet allow for foot/buggy or wheelbarrow traffic without slamming/squishing the mesh out of its best 'centered' position.
So Bondo, is your 'Potato Rake' an inexpensive/practical centering method? Or, is their a better (more $$$) mesh with little 3-D donuts/ circles & with 'feet' welded to mesh intersections a product tooo cumbersome or costly.. + difficult to manipulate on job site situations?
Also much appreciated your video on 'inside' t cc 'batch' plant..chemistry lab, test samples, accelerator tests etc. That was great, your awareness of our lacking this info/education was terrific...so to what do you owe you r awareness of our collective viewer lack of cement chemestry??..humm..gotta be that 'beer therapy' aye?😊
Stay safe & carry on💪⚙️🛠🍺👍😊
I think the potato rake work quite nice and if you pour it at a relatively. low slump the stone stays underr the wire and hold it up a inch or so and you want it on the bottom part of the slab the tension side as the slab is loaded from the top. Thanks for the comments. 😀
That one guy is Pink as the starfish on SpongeBob SquarePants😂
Yup he is fair skinned. LOL
114 👍's up BB thank you for sharing 😅
Thanks Scott
Quick question for you, don't you usually put a felt expansion piece between the floor and apron for movement? This spring we will be pouring my shop floor, building is 60x120x18 with in floor heat. Do I need to add any type of sealer before I put down the epoxy or just leave the bare floor open so the pours absorb the chemicals and do I need to wait about a month before applying the coating? I've learned so much from watching your channel, thanks for all the tips and tricks! Take care and don't work to hard!
Hi. you do not want to seal the concrete if you plan to epoxy it. Yes you want to wait for the floor to cure before the epoxy. I find the floor and the apron shrink a little as it dries so I do not put felt board between anymore. The ants come up through it Thanks for the comment.
That came out really nice, how do I go about getting a price on a barn floor? Thanks Kc
Well if you are local to Oswego county I could give you a price. Just email me. rbond360@yahoo.com
Amazing how quick the job progresses still put in full 8-10 hours and then some work on the video editing out all the f-bombs!
Ya the boys were throwing the bombs that day for some reason. LOL
Hey Bondo you need to put the camera on the float.. lol
Looking great! Do the inspectors ignore the toilet drain? 🤫
I think it is just a future what if we want it.
listen Ken..it's mud. If you know you, you know!🤣
Nice!1 :-)
Thanks Robert
Great channel. Was looking for info on ‘slump’ and came across it. What slump would you recommend for 12” round piers appx 5’ deep I need to set 12 of them and have enough time to set in a Simpson post base in each one. I’m thinking about 4-5k psi with 5” slump. Worried about having maybe an hour to set all 12 post bases before things cure too much. Thanks in advance
Hi. I think 4000 at a 5” to 6” maximum would be good. Have the plant add some retardant to slow it down a bit if it’s hot or pour it in the morning when it’s cooler
@@bondobuilt386 thank you so much for responding… much appreciated
you bet @@TheNorthwoodsBuild
Is there any way to install a thermal break between the floor and the apron? need to replace my shop floor soon and have noticed the concrete is very cold inside the bay doors and the snow melts on the apron, seems inefficient? not a troll but a legit question.
Definetly a good question. You can put some foam board between them but there is still about 6" of concrete sticking out from where the door goes down so I do not bother doing it. I have cut a 2" piece of foam at a 45 angle on the top and put it between but the thin concrete on top will crack as you drive over it. You could use 1"2" foam expansion and caulk the peel out top. It might do something but not much to stop the heat migration.
Pulling up the wire mesh is a must if you want in the slab instead of under, but what happens when it gets walked on while the concrete is still runny? I understand its better then nothing, but is it possible to screed and finish the slab work without walking on it once its pulled up?
Not really posible to screed without walking on it. We pour it stiff and the stone holds it up also we don't walk over every inch so it stays up pretty good.
At the 36:50 it was said the inside and outside should not be tied together. My garage slab and driveway were pinned together so is that going to be a problem?
Hi. If you are in a cold climate with wet soils the outside pad will tend to want to heave a little and the inside will not because it is warmer inside the building. That is why you want them separate. Also there should be more air in the outside pad than the inside in colder climates. So it depends if that is going to be a problem or not.
@@bondobuilt386 Ok Thanks. I live in Oshkosh Wisconsin so it can get cold in the winter. I don't know what are considered wet soils and I don't know how much air was in the mix. It's been 4 years since it was poured and I haven't had any problems yet except for the 4 foot diameter low spot lol. Thanks again and keep the mud vids coming.
At what depth in the concrete should the rebar be?
You want the rebar or mesh about 1" to 2" off the bottom as that put it on the tension side as the weight is loaded on a floor from the top.
My grandfather had a drain in the middle of his garage floor. I think it probably drained to a 55-gallon drum with holes in the bottom. I think when he changed fluids in his car and when he butchered deer it all went down the drain. And away go troubles down the drain? This is not a good idea. Your Home inspector needs to look at floor drains.
Well common sense should play into having a floor drain. Also a trap box could be put on the exit drain if someone was going to use it careless and let oil and deer blood run into it. The drains are nice to have but like I said about the common sense
I just put the same style drains in my garage, the Zurn drains require 6” of concrete all the way around
We did a drain in an auto body shop that was suspended like you say and concrete went all the way around it. It was real nice but like $3000 for the drain. LOL
th-cam.com/video/4KdoJY3JjeE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Xkh8omGD_ciY5PoV
@@bondobuilt386 yeah three 80” x 6” drain cost me $2000
@@gorillaman08zx wow that’s pricey bud.
@@bondobuilt386 we pour just under 100 yards of concrete in my yard, no point in going cheap on the drains and having something fail
You forgot to pull up the wire hmmmmm! LOL.
HMMMMMMMMM LMAO 🤣😂
Why did you put plastic down? Love your channel
yes we did lay 6 mill plastic down.
it is a vapor barrier. Keeps the slab from wicking up water from the soil below it.
I like it better when the door fits down into a channel and that way no water will come in.
We get no water this way either. Sometimes that channel it a toe catch isn't it?
@@bondobuilt386 yes if you are clumsy
Or had a few to many beers. LOL @@jakeschisler7525
I would like to see you put foam around the posts.....or at least put something around those post so the concrete is not directly touching those posts.
Are you supposed to put a layer of clear stone for drainage? I am doing a floor and don't want to add it. Not sure if it's required.
You can use crushed gravel or stone. As long as it has fines in it so it packs. Basements I want stone for drainage so water can migrate to the perimeter drains.
@@bondobuilt386 Why do you treat the shop floor different than a basement? Why do you want it to pack for shops but in basements you don't? Thanks
The stone is for drainage in a basement. Also we do not drive a truck into the basement. Stone will push around when you drive on it if it does not have fine dust in it. clean stone is self packing. but it rolls around if you drive a concrete truck on it. @@stevenpringle7813
@@bondobuilt386 Okay, that's what I thought but I wasn't sure. Thanks for the clarification. I didn't want to bring in clear stone for my shop. I have a lot of cement gravel and it's all compacted. It's been in the shop for years with backhoes and tractors driving on it. The quarry calls it cement gravel. I believe it's just taken right from the pit and put through a screed so you get small stones all the way down to sand. It packs very well. I won't have trucks because I am going to put down foam and PEX for in floor heating. I like your video on spraying foam on the floor. I might do that instead of the foam boards.
awesome. that cement gravel is a hell of base fr your floor. @@stevenpringle7813
climb dat wood bondo !!!.
LOL had to rescue his coffee.
I would of put more cuts in that floor.....I like
8' x 8' sections.
Kabota Miskota...amen...
😀
Comment.
Sound?
Your volume must be off?
The builders intended for the concrete to be poured against the boards around the bottom of the 'barn'???
Yes that is how they build these barns around here. Im not a fan of the wood in the ground.
Another good video nice! Hey I was in the Fulton Walmarts the other day and I saw a girl with 3 arms. Some sort of genetic thing. Her grand pappy was a spider. Them Fultonites are wild.
Bondo, your funny, no its mud. Nice job and some real pros with you, so much easier with out rookies.
I just don't trust treated poles in the ground. They are doing this with barndominums in my area. I see huge problems in 15 years. The timbers just don't last. Nice job!
I built one almost 30 years ago, no problems yet.
It depends on there poles and ground water in your soil. @@JRP3
I am not a fan of the wood in the ground.
@@bondobuilt386 Yeah probably if the soil is wet with poor drainage it's not good but isn't that the way most of them are built around here in CNY?
Yes I wish they used the song tube and metal brackets around here like some builders do on TH-cam. Much better building for minimal added cost IMO. @@JRP3
nice work cowboys.what the pourpose off white chemical you spray on?🙏💎🍾🍸🥂🐓🌴🏝👙🎉🍞🇹🇹
Sealer I think.
It is a cure and seal. Helps slow the curing down and evade salt damage.
yup @@JRP3
As long as you don't call it cement
NO WAY!!!
beer 30
Ya buddy 😀
I don't think pulling the mesh up even matters with big biscuit walking all over it afterwards.
Thank god someone mentioned the wire mesh I was worried nobody would talk about it. LOL
It is mud, Hmmm...
Ya it is. LOL
That there MUD, looks right nice! Hmmmmm! 👍😉👌You should learn to speak Russian, that way you could tell them, very politely, mind you, BIZ NAMEDA SARAKA! It’s an old Russian saying, that explains your position on points of disagreement! Politely, sorta! LOL🤣😂🤦♂️
LOL I love it.
@@bondobuilt386 I’ll meet you one day, and translate it for you, it will be your go to saying once I do! LOL To bad Dad’s isn’t open anymore in Mexico, I would buy you lunch, I miss that place. 👍 Lost them and Gramdma Browns.
@@Musclecar1972 yes it’s a shame they closed down. Sad to loose these small businesses in our small towns.
It just doesn’t sound right if you yell…….”HEY COMES THE CONCRETE”. Good job Ronbo! Hmmmm……that’s how we do it hmmm.
guy should describe the skill as X (easy), or XX (harder), or XXX (really hard), That way you can tell people you star in XXX videos ?????
Your Miller light boycott didn't last very long
It was Bud light boycott LOL