Couple of issues with this guys reviews. The machines are sponsored, but he never mentiones it. He only talks about positive points of a printer, negative points are often dismissed quickly or conveniently overlooked. He also never replies to any comment, another reason I have started to distrust his point of view. Its interesting how he manages to avoid the bad parts so well.
Another great review, Winter is coming, you need a bit better lighting 😁 some of the shots are dark. Maybe I’m just getting old. I appreciate the time you’re putting into these. I’m looking for a 3D printer to make templates. Looking forward to future stuff.
I can't tell the difference between the Anet ET 5, ET 5 X, ET 5 PRO What is a good reference point for deciding which Anet 5 model to buy? The Anet website doesn't really differentiate.
Thanks for the video, helped alot to understand the parts considering this is my first printer and havent done any research on machines or software or anything, o had issues with the levelling, it kept touching the glass with some pressure, and the filament wouldnt come out, after hours of trying to fix the auto levelling, i tried manual and still messed up, so i started the dog print, and i adjusted the bed while it was printing, and its printing flawlessly silky smooth now, not sure if ill have to readjist on the next print or what but ill figure that out on the next print, time to learn how to design things, and yes i did buy it on a whim lol
Can someone tell me if it is really worth being in a voxelab? Aquila I would like to have the plus of printing larger for some situations since they cost almost the same but I do not know if the quality is compromised
this is a nice video for et5x, i have it for around 4-5months, it is a solid 3d printer if you set it up properly from first start, i thought it the most value for the price, the cons is too noisy, i will upgrade it with better board and drivers in the future
I have ender 3v2 but now im planning to buy new one, but i need it to be 300×300×400, direct drive, dual axes, 32 bit board, and auto level but less than 600$ What do u recommend ?
If you want to upgrade to m-s direct drive all metall hot ass extruder, you will need 3-4 1mm O-rings to get the extruder-stepper aside the q-code thing. And later a custom printed cooling case. This printer has a very good price-performance ratio.
I just got mine and wasn't really happy with how it arrived, the LCD screen wasn't even seated properly and basically fell out of alignment, and when it moves the bed its like gears are grinding and the whole thing starts shaking, I'm not sure what exactly the deal is, but it's hard to describe exactly what the issues are
I just got this printer and the extruder is roughly 16cm from the hot plate but the z-axis is apparently at 0 and when I do the auto levelling the extruder goes up to that 16cm from the hotbed and try’s the level from there. Any idea what might be wrong?
How do you change where it starts cuz I printed the first dog and it printed fine but when I go to print other things it prints off the pad in the front not even touching if you know how to fix I really appreciate it
i am curious do you have any ideas on the heating issue for the nozzle mine flucuates as well, i have left a msg for anet but its been about month ago with no answer.
@@od_studios Agreed and they get beat up pretty soundly for many relevant reasons. I'll say this. I got my Anet A8 plus in Nov. It's my first printer so my judgement is skewed because I've never used the better printers. However, if I stopped using it today, it did it's job for 240 bucks. It has taught me an insane amount about 3D printing and I've managed to make some pretty awesome prints. My next printer is going to be a Voron. I built the Anet A8 plus from kit, piece by piece and it was a ROYAL PITA with the instructions given however, it taught me I'm up to the task. Would I buy another Anet? Not sure. I'd prefer they come with Marlin, and follow industry standards much closer. With advancements in CoreXY, etc... like I said, i'm leaning towards building my own. After a thousand vids, I'd probably head directly for a Prusa if I was to drop a thousand on that type of printer at this point.
For all those who are wondering, you can fix the temperature fluctuation by doing a 5 minute PID autotune. Idk why he didn't do that. teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#pid
Hi @UC3Gh-hVVdZXDuTMNlqyHYBw! Maybe you already know this but the temp can be very different from machine to another machine. I saw a video clip with a guy tested two different machines and he came up that the difference was 15 celsius wrong... but they both showed the same temp in the display. Maybe it is common for 3d printer to not have a accurate tempsensor....but i also agree what happen to the temp on your machine
I have seen some pretty bad prints come off the printers you review but they are always described as great, I would love to see what quality of print it takes for you to describe it as bad.
It hard to make everyone happy, I guess he doesnt want to be too negative about it, for the Fans and for the companies that paying him for these reviews.
@@zero00tolerance He's not being paid for reviews and no matter what should remain objective, other YTbers make an objective review and still get sent units for review
Esp. with 300by300 heavy bed with glas and dual z. Bowden is O.K on Bedshakers with light smal bed less than 200by200 or with single z for extreme low cost (like Ender3 or ET4) - and of course on high-speed CoreXY, CrossingRod or Delta. Also with a 5-colour mixing nozzle I can understand the need of bowdens. But with heavy bed accelerating in y you have no advantage with a light bowden printhead. And even for smaler printers in bedshaker design and with single z, there is always the Orbiter Extruder, (its price from china is about 45€, as it use SLS-printed parts - but if a comany would use it for stock printers, price would drop signifitly). It works for most Core XY, CrossingRod and Delta (exept something very smal like the MP Delta Mini) also. My favorite extruder for bedshakers is the "Bondtech mk3s upgrade" or the Mosiqito version. There are versions on thingiverse for print them in FDM yourself (I use mostly thing:3754163 for v6 and thing:3755063 for Mosquito). Updated some of my chineese printers I have to that extruder and be quite happy with the result (only I hope the filament autoload feature in prusa´s fork of Marlin will get to the main Fork of Marlin). Of course, some printers like the Ender 3 need a second z first. I also ordered the Orbiter for my Sapphire S (which is strange design anyway - heavy steel x-axis with linear rail and bowden extruder - even bondtech direct extruder + carbon rods would have less moving mass). If it works, I might also will rework my effector on the AC Predetor for Orbiter). So you are totally right. Theese bowden extruders are a bad thing (with exeption of very very smal printers there it does not matter). And direct extruder would not even cost more, esp. when geared (you even only need a smaller motor). If you thing that even a toy-size printer like the EasyTreeed (de.aliexpress.com/item/4000535750845.html) uses direct extruder, so I can not understand chineese manufacturers still produce this sick bowden style printers in big size. But anyway, I also do not understand the sense in bedshakers bigger than 220*220. The design is from a time only 2,85mm filament was available, so you need a geared direct extruder with big motor. To move the x-gantry including motor for x and direct extruder in y it was more easy (less weight) to move the bed in y. So the bedshaker design was same (or even better) and less costly than a cube. The last printer that followed the rules was Prusas mk2. Even on the mk3s the bed is a little bigger than making sense (actually mk3 prints a bit, but just a bit, slower than mk2 for this reason). With Ender 3 with only one z (or the Prusa Mini, also only 1 z) to make a printer more affordable is not optimal in an engeneering sense, but still in economic to do so, as the effect on the prints is "acceptable". Bigger printers you need second z anyway. So no need to use bowden to reduce cost to make the printer more affordable. But bedshaking is already a questionable desission. Yes, it cost less. But to avoid ringing, acelleration gets lower, print time increases. The cost of using a cube design insted would maybe a third more (or in big numbers only 20% more). But you would get much faster printing time. Here we got into a trap: most potential customers got used to bedshaker design. They also much to often decide by a printvolume to price comparision; more expensive cubes are sold in smaler numbers, so they stay more expensive. So, by engeneering thoughts a 300by300 bedshaker is nonsense. Using bowden is nonsense² (exept than using mixing extruders). As bigger a printer gets, as bigger the nonsense gets. The chineese simply scaled up designs which are well developed for smal size. The bowden style extruders are only one point of the mess.
New Channel: www.youtube.com/@Just_Print
Buy it here: geni.us/eeeuQX
Recommended: geni.us/JustVlads
Couple of issues with this guys reviews. The machines are sponsored, but he never mentiones it. He only talks about positive points of a printer, negative points are often dismissed quickly or conveniently overlooked. He also never replies to any comment, another reason I have started to distrust his point of view. Its interesting how he manages to avoid the bad parts so well.
Thank you for testing. Very informative.
Absolutely PERFECT review. It answered all of my questions. Thank you very much.
Another great review,
Winter is coming, you need a bit better lighting 😁 some of the shots are dark. Maybe I’m just getting old.
I appreciate the time you’re putting into these. I’m looking for a 3D printer to make templates. Looking forward to future stuff.
I can't tell the difference between the Anet ET 5, ET 5 X, ET 5 PRO
What is a good reference point for deciding which Anet 5 model to buy? The Anet website doesn't really differentiate.
Thanks for the video, helped alot to understand the parts considering this is my first printer and havent done any research on machines or software or anything, o had issues with the levelling, it kept touching the glass with some pressure, and the filament wouldnt come out, after hours of trying to fix the auto levelling, i tried manual and still messed up, so i started the dog print, and i adjusted the bed while it was printing, and its printing flawlessly silky smooth now, not sure if ill have to readjist on the next print or what but ill figure that out on the next print, time to learn how to design things, and yes i did buy it on a whim lol
Can someone tell me if it is really worth being in a voxelab? Aquila I would like to have the plus of printing larger for some situations since they cost almost the same but I do not know if the quality is compromised
I am a newbie and just ordered this last week. I could use a tutorial on how to setup my printer settings for Repetier.
Hi on that printer you using stock firmware or did you upgrade to Marlin
Will you have Biqu BX for review? I like your reviews. Thx :)
Thank you for the video.👍
this is a nice video for et5x, i have it for around 4-5months, it is a solid 3d printer if you set it up properly from first start, i thought it the most value for the price, the cons is too noisy, i will upgrade it with better board and drivers in the future
What board
I have ender 3v2 but now im planning to buy new one, but i need it to be 300×300×400, direct drive, dual axes, 32 bit board, and auto level but less than 600$ What do u recommend ?
Artillery Sidewinder X1. Although only has an 8 bit board i think, but quality prints out of the box
@@georgietorrance dos is have bltouch ?
Ender 5 Plus 👍👍👍
@@vrich3733 its not direct drive
@@salman1sa easy to change....
If you want to upgrade to m-s direct drive all metall hot ass extruder, you will need 3-4 1mm O-rings to get the extruder-stepper aside the q-code thing. And later a custom printed cooling case. This printer has a very good price-performance ratio.
I just got mine and wasn't really happy with how it arrived, the LCD screen wasn't even seated properly and basically fell out of alignment, and when it moves the bed its like gears are grinding and the whole thing starts shaking, I'm not sure what exactly the deal is, but it's hard to describe exactly what the issues are
Is there any difference between this and the et5?
Thanks for the video , so its worth to buy ? Btw how do you get the patern ? is it easy software to use ?
I just got this printer and the extruder is roughly 16cm from the hot plate but the z-axis is apparently at 0 and when I do the auto levelling the extruder goes up to that 16cm from the hotbed and try’s the level from there. Any idea what might be wrong?
Should I get this printer or the ender 3 v2? I like that the anet has auto bed leveling, I would be adding it to the ender 3.
Artillery genius or sidewinder x1 are better
Go with Cr6se or v2
Should I get the Et4 or Et5.
So you can’t print on fabric then what is the point of this printer???
How do you change where it starts cuz I printed the first dog and it printed fine but when I go to print other things it prints off the pad in the front not even touching if you know how to fix I really appreciate it
i am curious do you have any ideas on the heating issue for the nozzle mine flucuates as well, i have left a msg for anet but its been about month ago with no answer.
replace the heater, makes sure u get 24v, its a cheap part.
So replacing the heater? Are you referring to the thermistor for the nozzle?
Hey Vlads which camera do you usinf and lights
The market is becoming more and more flooded by unknown brands that you just have to hope will stick around long enough.
I'd say Anet is pretty well known though
@@od_studios Agreed and they get beat up pretty soundly for many relevant reasons. I'll say this. I got my Anet A8 plus in Nov. It's my first printer so my judgement is skewed because I've never used the better printers. However, if I stopped using it today, it did it's job for 240 bucks. It has taught me an insane amount about 3D printing and I've managed to make some pretty awesome prints. My next printer is going to be a Voron. I built the Anet A8 plus from kit, piece by piece and it was a ROYAL PITA with the instructions given however, it taught me I'm up to the task. Would I buy another Anet? Not sure. I'd prefer they come with Marlin, and follow industry standards much closer. With advancements in CoreXY, etc... like I said, i'm leaning towards building my own. After a thousand vids, I'd probably head directly for a Prusa if I was to drop a thousand on that type of printer at this point.
Big Like for you 😻❤️
How is it compared to CR10 Pro V2?
For all those who are wondering, you can fix the temperature fluctuation by doing a 5 minute PID autotune. Idk why he didn't do that. teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#pid
Hi @UC3Gh-hVVdZXDuTMNlqyHYBw! Maybe you already know this but the temp can be very different from machine to another machine. I saw a video clip with a guy tested two different machines and he came up that the difference was 15 celsius wrong... but they both showed the same temp in the display. Maybe it is common for 3d printer to not have a accurate tempsensor....but i also agree what happen to the temp on your machine
I have seen some pretty bad prints come off the printers you review but they are always described as great, I would love to see what quality of print it takes for you to describe it as bad.
It hard to make everyone happy, I guess he doesnt want to be too negative about it, for the Fans and for the companies that paying him for these reviews.
@@zero00tolerance He's not being paid for reviews and no matter what should remain objective, other YTbers make an objective review and still get sent units for review
they are un calibrated 180$ printers be happy it even finished a print from the factory lol.
Dont glue on glass... just use fine sandpaper. 400+
Would love to try that rocket on my printer but can’t find the stl file, is it available?
The rocket is this I think www.thingiverse.com/thing:1535483
What brand is that gold filament you printed the rocket with?
its actually silk copper: geni.us/2C3q41R
What cameras do you use?
A6400 in this video and a7siii more recently.
Does anybody have the link to the starships .STL?
All these companies must be the same
👌👍
Oh great another Chinese printer with bowden tube, so sick of it ! Direct Drive
Esp. with 300by300 heavy bed with glas and dual z.
Bowden is O.K on Bedshakers with light smal bed less than 200by200 or with single z for extreme low cost (like Ender3 or ET4) - and of course on high-speed CoreXY, CrossingRod or Delta. Also with a 5-colour mixing nozzle I can understand the need of bowdens.
But with heavy bed accelerating in y you have no advantage with a light bowden printhead.
And even for smaler printers in bedshaker design and with single z, there is always the Orbiter Extruder, (its price from china is about 45€, as it use SLS-printed parts - but if a comany would use it for stock printers, price would drop signifitly). It works for most Core XY, CrossingRod and Delta (exept something very smal like the MP Delta Mini) also.
My favorite extruder for bedshakers is the "Bondtech mk3s upgrade" or the Mosiqito version. There are versions on thingiverse for print them in FDM yourself (I use mostly thing:3754163 for v6 and thing:3755063 for Mosquito). Updated some of my chineese printers I have to that extruder and be quite happy with the result (only I hope the filament autoload feature in prusa´s fork of Marlin will get to the main Fork of Marlin). Of course, some printers like the Ender 3 need a second z first.
I also ordered the Orbiter for my Sapphire S (which is strange design anyway - heavy steel x-axis with linear rail and bowden extruder - even bondtech direct extruder + carbon rods would have less moving mass). If it works, I might also will rework my effector on the AC Predetor for Orbiter).
So you are totally right. Theese bowden extruders are a bad thing (with exeption of very very smal printers there it does not matter). And direct extruder would not even cost more, esp. when geared (you even only need a smaller motor). If you thing that even a toy-size printer like the EasyTreeed (de.aliexpress.com/item/4000535750845.html) uses direct extruder, so I can not understand chineese manufacturers still produce this sick bowden style printers in big size.
But anyway, I also do not understand the sense in bedshakers bigger than 220*220. The design is from a time only 2,85mm filament was available, so you need a geared direct extruder with big motor. To move the x-gantry including motor for x and direct extruder in y it was more easy (less weight) to move the bed in y. So the bedshaker design was same (or even better) and less costly than a cube. The last printer that followed the rules was Prusas mk2. Even on the mk3s the bed is a little bigger than making sense (actually mk3 prints a bit, but just a bit, slower than mk2 for this reason).
With Ender 3 with only one z (or the Prusa Mini, also only 1 z) to make a printer more affordable is not optimal in an engeneering sense, but still in economic to do so, as the effect on the prints is "acceptable". Bigger printers you need second z anyway. So no need to use bowden to reduce cost to make the printer more affordable. But bedshaking is already a questionable desission. Yes, it cost less. But to avoid ringing, acelleration gets lower, print time increases. The cost of using a cube design insted would maybe a third more (or in big numbers only 20% more). But you would get much faster printing time. Here we got into a trap: most potential customers got used to bedshaker design. They also much to often decide by a printvolume to price comparision; more expensive cubes are sold in smaler numbers, so they stay more expensive.
So, by engeneering thoughts a 300by300 bedshaker is nonsense. Using bowden is nonsense² (exept than using mixing extruders). As bigger a printer gets, as bigger the nonsense gets. The chineese simply scaled up designs which are well developed for smal size. The bowden style extruders are only one point of the mess.
I wouldn't describe that filament as "premium" it's pretty janky, as bent as a cartoon lightning bolt.
This company isn't that new lol
Wo
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SOPUDAR ... fire hazard