Well Rounded Video, Showed an Explained What Needed to be Done, than Immediately Moved to Footage Showing Part Removed. Next Time Position Fixed Lighting each clip And your video results would have been Perfect Execution, Good Job, thanks for Taking the time to help Others Understand and The Confidence to Forge Ahead...... "The Finest Kind"
Got a tip for anyone putting that lower control arm rear position bushing in if they can’t hammer it to get it started. I tried with a hammer but it kept bouncing out and I couldn’t get it started and my ball joint tool was not big enough. I went and got a foot of threaded rod (9/16 or 5/8 - I can’t remember but it fit through the bushing opening), with a nut and washer on each side. I think I used one of the ball joint tool kit discs as well but it gave me what was effectively just a longer tool and I threaded it in far enough till I could use the normal tool.
Important to note that you do not torque your control arms until they are sitting in their final resting position. Otherwise you could damage the mount bushings.
@@Geowhiz236 TRW is good, they make a lot of oem parts, other than that try to get actual oem. My fords I spend twice as much to get motorcraft, so far every motorcraft ball joint says made in usa
@@nastysoda9212 Hi, since you brought it up… do you know if meevotech is any good? Or should I just focus on oem parts made in USA as a rule and go from there?
This is exactly what I needed to get the same job done on my LLY. I also went with Moog, and had to get get a new steering gear box as well. I have probably rewatched the bearing and bushing pressing 20 times to get it right.
I didn't use one. I have in the past, but if you are completely disassembling like this you don't need it. Just make sure you support the lower arm when you pop the ball joint lose.
Great video, I'm starting this rebuild this week. Ball joint question- "Harbor Freight Ball Joint Service Kit for 2WD and 4WD Vehicle" Do I need the add on kit for this work also? Thank you! 2001Suburban 2500 4x4.
Hi, I really enjoy your videos. Curious, how big of an improvement in ride quality and steering? I have the same truck and will tackle this job soon but also considering changing body mounts. I get quite a bit of jarring on rough roads and cant quite pinpoint if its control arm bushings or body mounts. Thanks in advance
Great video im about the rebuild my LLY this will be a great help ive seen some saying you have to take the torsion bar bolts loose before removing the shocks but seems strange to me is this true?
That's was a big job! Nicely done. Looks like you've got lots of experience working on cars to tackle something like this... As well as the cam install on Camaro. Are you a pro mechanic or an avid diy'er? Enjoyed watching it. Thanks!
@@ccr6844 absolutely honestly I avoid moog, I got lower ball joints from them and it was more loose than the one I was replacing, better off going with Acdelco gold or if your looking to upgrade kryptonite is by far the best better design UCA ball joint and just a lot beefier their sway bar links, tie rods and controls are the best the other stuff you can shop around for but you also get a lifetime warranty
Great video. This job must have been 100% easier when using the lift. lol. Great job.
Well Rounded Video,
Showed an Explained
What Needed to be Done, than Immediately
Moved to Footage Showing Part Removed.
Next Time Position Fixed Lighting each clip
And your video results
would have been Perfect Execution,
Good Job, thanks for
Taking the time to help
Others Understand and
The Confidence to
Forge Ahead......
"The Finest Kind"
Got a tip for anyone putting that lower control arm rear position bushing in if they can’t hammer it to get it started. I tried with a hammer but it kept bouncing out and I couldn’t get it started and my ball joint tool was not big enough. I went and got a foot of threaded rod (9/16 or 5/8 - I can’t remember but it fit through the bushing opening), with a nut and washer on each side. I think I used one of the ball joint tool kit discs as well but it gave me what was effectively just a longer tool and I threaded it in far enough till I could use the normal tool.
Nice tip! Sometimes you have to do what works with what you have!
Important to note that you do not torque your control arms until they are sitting in their final resting position. Otherwise you could damage the mount bushings.
I didn't realize that the MOOG stuff was considered so bad these days. Great video though!
holy moly, all MOOG.. You must REALLY enjoy rebuilding front ends
I am looking to do this job soon and staying away from moog...having a hard time picking quality parts for reasonable $$$
@@Geowhiz236 TRW is good, they make a lot of oem parts, other than that try to get actual oem. My fords I spend twice as much to get motorcraft, so far every motorcraft ball joint says made in usa
@@nastysoda9212 Hi, since you brought it up… do you know if meevotech is any good? Or should I just focus on oem parts made in USA as a rule and go from there?
is moog bad? just bought a pair of lower CA’s seems pretty solid to me. things weigh a ton and the ball joints feel solid
@@_N4VE_ used to be good, last 4 years or more everything is from china and absolute trash quality.
This is exactly what I needed to get the same job done on my LLY. I also went with Moog, and had to get get a new steering gear box as well. I have probably rewatched the bearing and bushing pressing 20 times to get it right.
Same exact scenario w me Sigmund.
How was the ride post rebuild Sigmund?
Thanks for the detailed information 👊
Do you have a list of part numbers ?
Great video, but LMAO when you said "torsion bar just slips right out.".
How do you get the pitman off the centerline ?? Can I hit it with hammer to try and push it off centerlink or do I need a puller tool
Wait, did you tighten the bushings down without preloading the suspension? 🤦🏽
I wonder if u could burn them out🤔
So you didnt need like a key or special tool to take torsion bar out? U thought you did thats why i have not done my truck uet.
I didn't use one. I have in the past, but if you are completely disassembling like this you don't need it. Just make sure you support the lower arm when you pop the ball joint lose.
This would’ve been a great video. But nooooo lights!!!
I went with a full kryptonite front end 💪🏽
Nice!
Smart man must wanna do this one time
Great video, I'm starting this rebuild this week. Ball joint question- "Harbor Freight Ball Joint Service Kit for 2WD and 4WD Vehicle" Do I need the add on kit for this work also? Thank you! 2001Suburban 2500 4x4.
What bushings did you use for the LCA? Also what ball joint press is that? HF or Amazon?
Too bad you didn’t drive the truck after this job, the body language and voice tone would have described the after job performance.
Hi, I really enjoy your videos. Curious, how big of an improvement in ride quality and steering? I have the same truck and will tackle this job soon but also considering changing body mounts. I get quite a bit of jarring on rough roads and cant quite pinpoint if its control arm bushings or body mounts. Thanks in advance
It makes a huge difference! The body mounts are pricey, but i'm sure would also be a noticeable difference.
Imma watch this 100 times
Thanks, keep watching!
Great video im about the rebuild my LLY this will be a great help ive seen some saying you have to take the torsion bar bolts loose before removing the shocks but seems strange to me is this true?
Wish you would have shown how you actually did the lower control arm bushings instead of skipping 👍😢
Commenting for support!
Appreciate the support!!
video started great until you started showing everything without a head lamp
I just helped a friend of mine work on his suspension. I could have used your help then Danny...oh well, next time!
That's was a big job! Nicely done. Looks like you've got lots of experience working on cars to tackle something like this... As well as the cam install on Camaro. Are you a pro mechanic or an avid diy'er? Enjoyed watching it. Thanks!
Thanks! I've been at it for a while, I appreciate the support.
@@slow_restoration thanks!
Are you going to keep it or sell it?
Still undecided.
I do not see the best parts. I mean Kryptonite.
No, but these are still an upgrade!
About to rebuild the front end on my Tahoe. Is Kryptonite that much better than Moog?
@@ccr6844 absolutely honestly I avoid moog, I got lower ball joints from them and it was more loose than the one I was replacing, better off going with Acdelco gold or if your looking to upgrade kryptonite is by far the best better design UCA ball joint and just a lot beefier their sway bar links, tie rods and controls are the best the other stuff you can shop around for but you also get a lifetime warranty
How are those moog parts holding up
So far good.
Won't last 20k miles
@@fredstewartjr2196 you mean 20 miles