Hey Joe, Thanks. Yeah it's much easier to repair/fix than let's say a poly finish. And it's supposed to keep looking better over time from playing and touching the instrument.
OSMO hardwax oil is available basically everywhere. Woodcraft here in the States has it now along with a ton of other OSMO products. Really awesome stuff!
Thank you for showing: accidental shielding paint, on the wax finish, easily wipes away. Your building/video process is well planned and well executed. Beware Great Guitar Build Off! ;) This builder is Outstanding!
Hi Michael, Thank you very much! That is exactly the reason why I finish the guitar before adding the shielding paint. Spilling a drip of that stuff on bare wood isn't fun. I think planning is key when trying to get the best result possible with limited tools and workspace.
Thanks Daniel! I too, have just ordered my first kit, ES335 clone, and sincerely appreciate your guidance here! Btw, the music that accompanies your videos is always excellent, and really resonates with my taste in music. Could watch and learn from you all day!
Hi Michael, Thank you very much for the compliments. I really appreciate it and it's nice to read you're enjoying my videos. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Hi Leon, Thank you for your comment. I have to give Osmo a try one day, but I guess it gives the same result. Such a smooth finish on both a neck and the body without feeling 'sticky' like some other finishes.
Hi Daniel, being a German made product, I would think most OSMO products will be available in the Netherlands? I have actually used the Poly-X Hardwax oil on my kitchen counter tops (European Beech) and after 7 years of heavy use they are still in great shape. I also used it on a table top and same story! It is really a great product. I'm not sure of the difference between the wood wax and the Poly-X but on the label of the Poly-X it clearly says "The original Hardwax oil" the fact that is high solids means that it builds a little better than a lower solids product. You probably know that already,. I am an Automotive Paint tech rep so paint and finish is what I do! Just trying to be helpful my friend. Peace. Have a great day!
I'm loving your videos .I'm learning so much. I watched your shop tour video. I was wondering how you heat your shop in the winter so you can work? Or do you work on the house in the winter? Thanks again for making such quality videos.
Hi Sean, Once again thank you very much! I have both a gas and an electric heater in the shop for when it's cold. And I have a heated cabinet to store all my glues, stains and stuff to keep them from freezing while I'm not in the shed.
Hello maestro. Ukraine is in touch. I may not have looked, but do you make an angle when the neck and body are articulated? Or do they fit in the same plane like Fender guitars?
Hi Tuxuu, I do have a very slight neck break angle, but it is very little. Check out my previous video in which I explain this. th-cam.com/video/kU-MJ475LS8/w-d-xo.html
Hi Reality Studios Custom Shop, Thank you very much. You should definitely give it a try. It's such a smooth and hard wearing finish when applied correctly.
Use a heat gun or a hair dryer to warm up your wax and your rag and it'll get rid of those streaks you're talking about. It also make application way easier And wiping off easier as well!
Hi Sweet T guitars, Great tip. I used to do this with bees wax, but didn't know this could also be done with the Microcrystalline wax or if the heat would mess up the crystalline structure. I have to give it a try.
Now that we have discussed this issue, I think what would be really great is to use the woodwax for the first 2 coats then change to the Poly-X for the last coats if you're going for a high build finish that can be buffed to whatever sheen desired! My thoughts anyway. I may try this soon as I'll film it when I do!
They hard wax oil you linked in your description is actually different from the actual Hardwax oil OSMO makes. It is great as well but the Hardwax oil is called PolyX-Oil. High solids Hardwax oil. It is the stuff my friend.
Hi Sweet T Guitars, Thank you for your input. By my understanding both are basically Hard Wax Oils with the difference that the PolyX-Oil has more solids suspended in it which makes it to penetrate harder wood types less, according to the Osmo data sheet. I had to research this a bit and found out that Osmo doesn't recommend the Poly-X on harder woods but recommends the Wood Wax instead. It might have been better to clarify this in my description perhaps. Once again thank you for your thoughts. I now want to test both products to experience the difference and be able provide better or more complete advice next time.
No big deal. I actually did add just a little linseed oil to the Poly-X to thin it a little so it would penetrate a little better, so I do agree with that info for sure. It's all good man. I just thought I'd add a little info in case someone needed the info! Have a great evening.
I wanted to correct myself for a comment that I made earlier! The OSMO poky-x Hardwax oil is Osmo's original Hardwax oil. The stuff listed in the description "wood wax" is killer stuff as well. You may get a little better mileage out if the poky-x due to the fact that it's high solids. Just wanted to let you guys know that I am in no way contradicting Daniel. He is a great builder and he knows what works!
Hi Sweet T Guitars, Thank you very much for this clarification. Although I think it wasn't necessary . I appreciate all input and thoughts as long as it is given respectfully which you certainly did.
I honestly didn't mean for this to turn into a long drawn out discussion. I, like I said was really just trying to add info to your recommendations due to my experience. No big deal. I love your channel and I look forward to your next video!
We can move on to the chemical signature of a Hersey bar now man😁. I'm sorry I got so into the whole Hardwax oil thing. I hope you can overlook my enthusiasm! Peace brother.
Hi buddy, do you find the finish has a weird tacky feel to it at all? Mine seems to, not like really sticky, just a weird tacky feel. The neck still feels very slick though. Cheers Ps it's to much hardwax oil, I've put it on to thick.
Hi Daniel I am wanting to finish a walnut body guitar, with osmos hard oil wax which is available here in Canada. I usually grain fill walnut by wet sanding using danish oil as a lubricant to make a slurry, fills nicely and really brings out the wood grain. Does this make sense to you? I watched your video on finishing your two guitars with the hard wax oil and noticed that you sand between each coat, why and what grit of sandpaper do you use? How many coats do you apply in total? Can’t find microcrystalline wax here in Winnipeg, what alternative do you suggest?
I didn't know how to finish my DIY kit guitar, now I know. Thank you! Just a couple of questiona, have you used any kind of grain filler? do you recommend it? what if you want to stain the body? Is hard wax oil good with stains?
Hi Aitor Plaza, To answer your questions. No I haven't used grain filler. An Oil finish needs to penetrate the wood as much as possible. Grain filler can hinder this so I don't recommend it. In my experience a Hard Wax oil, or any oil, can be used over stains. I did this on several guitars, but I highly recommend to TEST yours FIRST on a piece of scrap. It might depend on the brand/type of stains and/or hard wax oil.
Hi Maurice, Ik weet niet of er een Nederlandse naam voor is, en of dat er een Nederlands merk is die iets vergelijkbaars maakt. Maar de Chestnut Microcrystalline was is ook hier goed verkrijgbaar bij bijv. Baptist. Microcrystalline wax is vergelijkbaar met meubelwas, maar in plaats van op basis van bijenwas o.i.d. is het een volledig kunstmatige was met een specifieke kristalstructuur waardoor het slijtvaster, water-bestendiger en beter bestand tegen warmte is.
Sorry to bother you again, but before I mess something up I have to ask: I see people often applying several coats on an oil finish, is there a reason you only applied 2 with the hard wax oil? Does it protect the guitar enough in your opinion?
Hi Sekor, No problem, It kinda depends on the type of wood and on how thick you apply the hard wax oil. According to the manufacturer 1 or 2 thin coats are sufficient. These days I apply several very very thin coats which I wipe down immediately. This finish is intended for flooring so it gives good protection once it is fully hardened. Although I have finished several guitars like this I'm still experimenting to get even better results easier and faster.
@Unquendor Guitars I think I'm gonna try with 3 coats then :) i really have to thank you as I'm new at this and my guitar would look awful right now if it weren't for your videos ahah. I'll stay tuned for new projects of yours. Have a nice day ☺️
Hi Richard, It should last for a long while. The hard wax oil is meant to be used on flooring and although the manufacturer doesn't mention any specific expected ' life time' I do believe it should hold up for a very long time on a guitar. For maintenance I advice to annually clean the guitar and apply some wax. Just to keep it nice and even more shiny.
Hi Edad, I'll be fine... I hope. I use very cheap or old tea towels that are banned from the kitchen. Old very well used Tea Towels just seem to work the best in my opinion.
Hi Aga Doo, Yes I do sell my guitars and I'm open to do commissions as well. For more information I recommend visiting my website or sending me an email.
Hi Mr. Waffles. I suspected something like that... But surely it isn't called a tin can of paint?? Is it? Or do you refer to it by the amount of paint and not the type of packaging like we are used to here in the Netherlands.
@@UnquendorGuitars if you're referring to a tin can of something specific we usually say can of... paint, tuna, uranium, etc. But if we're talking about the tin can as an object by itself it's a tin can. Of course the US is a big country with a different patois for every region, race, ethnicity, even generations. So it's different depending on where you are and who you're talking to. This is all even more amusing to me because they're rarely made of tin anymore, everything is aluminum? alumninium?... the 13th element on the periodic table.
That finish is fantastic. I absolutely love the fact that if you mess it up, it's not a long drawn out fix.
Hey Joe,
Thanks.
Yeah it's much easier to repair/fix than let's say a poly finish. And it's supposed to keep looking better over time from playing and touching the instrument.
@@UnquendorGuitars Well, I believe I will try this with my build.
OSMO hardwax oil is available basically everywhere. Woodcraft here in the States has it now along with a ton of other OSMO products. Really awesome stuff!
Hi Sweet T Guitars,
Thank you for sharing the info.
It's sometimes hard to find out which products are available in any specific country.
Thank you for showing: accidental shielding paint, on the wax finish, easily wipes away.
Your building/video process is well planned and well executed.
Beware Great Guitar Build Off! ;) This builder is Outstanding!
Hi Michael,
Thank you very much!
That is exactly the reason why I finish the guitar before adding the shielding paint.
Spilling a drip of that stuff on bare wood isn't fun.
I think planning is key when trying to get the best result possible with limited tools and workspace.
some people call it aa tin can..... polishing compound will remove the line for the wax.. Looks wonderful!!!
Hi Donals,
Thank you for the tip and the compliment.
Thanks Daniel! I too, have just ordered my first kit, ES335 clone, and sincerely appreciate your guidance here!
Btw, the music that accompanies your videos is always excellent, and really resonates with my taste in music. Could watch and learn from you all day!
The valute on your necks look awesome! You have gotten good.
Thank you,
B
This is a zen art. Thank you for this great video my friend. Cheers from Istanbul..
Hey Tarkan,
Thank you and you're welcome!
Cheers from the Netherlands!
Beautiful work and very original instruments.
Hi Angus,
Thank you very much for the compliments.
Cheers from Texas!
Beautiful Guitars!
Wonderful teachings.
I enjoy the pace at which your videos are produced. Fantastic!
🤘😎🤘❤️❤️
Michael Francis
Hi Michael,
Thank you very much for the compliments.
I really appreciate it and it's nice to read you're enjoying my videos.
Greetings from the Netherlands.
Another Phenomenal Video !! Buy the tee shirts everyone !! They're awesome !!!
Hi Bert Rodriguez,
Thank you very much for your support!
I love the Osmo finish on a neck. I use nothing else. I use it on the body as well by the way.
Hi Leon,
Thank you for your comment.
I have to give Osmo a try one day, but I guess it gives the same result.
Such a smooth finish on both a neck and the body without feeling 'sticky' like some other finishes.
Wonderfull result, what a nice Wood, what a nice finish!
Hi FAVRE Jeam-Michel,
Thank you very much for the compliments.
I really like to body shape and the neck to body carve. Great looking guitars.
Hey Bill,
Thank you very much for the compliments.
I learned a lot watching your video. Beautiful guitars as well. Thanks for the video.
Hi John,
Thank you very much.
Nice to hear you got some useful information from my videos.
Really nice finish. High gloss lacquer or poly are nice but oil has it's charm and place, especially without using the stains.
Hey Nick Guitar,
Thank you very much for the compliment.
Also. Killer music! Great choice...
Gorgeous Guitars!
Hi Michael,
Thank you once again.
These guitars are gorgeous!
Hi Jeff,
Thank you very much.
OSMO also makes really great stain. Another great Video Daniel. Awesome guitars! I really love them both
Hi Sweet T Guitars,
Thank you very much.
I might need to check them out. I haven't tried any Osmo products myself yet.
Hi Daniel, being a German made product, I would think most OSMO products will be available in the Netherlands? I have actually used the Poly-X Hardwax oil on my kitchen counter tops (European Beech) and after 7 years of heavy use they are still in great shape. I also used it on a table top and same story! It is really a great product. I'm not sure of the difference between the wood wax and the Poly-X but on the label of the Poly-X it clearly says "The original Hardwax oil" the fact that is high solids means that it builds a little better than a lower solids product. You probably know that already,. I am an Automotive Paint tech rep so paint and finish is what I do! Just trying to be helpful my friend. Peace. Have a great day!
I’m looking forward to hearing how these black limba single cuts sound!
Hi Jeff,
I don't know if you've already found the demo for these guitars, but here's a link for you.
th-cam.com/video/RrqNNXLoG8Q/w-d-xo.html
I'm loving your videos .I'm learning so much. I watched your shop tour video. I was wondering how you heat your shop in the winter so you can work? Or do you work on the house in the winter? Thanks again for making such quality videos.
Hi Sean,
Once again thank you very much!
I have both a gas and an electric heater in the shop for when it's cold.
And I have a heated cabinet to store all my glues, stains and stuff to keep them from freezing while I'm not in the shed.
Hello maestro. Ukraine is in touch. I may not have looked, but do you make an angle when the neck and body are articulated? Or do they fit in the same plane like Fender guitars?
Hi Tuxuu,
I do have a very slight neck break angle, but it is very little.
Check out my previous video in which I explain this.
th-cam.com/video/kU-MJ475LS8/w-d-xo.html
Fantastic looking finish, Daniel. I've defaulted to danish oil in the past but may consider this approach in the future
Hi Reality Studios Custom Shop,
Thank you very much.
You should definitely give it a try. It's such a smooth and hard wearing finish when applied correctly.
@@UnquendorGuitars no prob, duly noted!
Use a heat gun or a hair dryer to warm up your wax and your rag and it'll get rid of those streaks you're talking about. It also make application way easier And wiping off easier as well!
Hi Sweet T guitars,
Great tip.
I used to do this with bees wax, but didn't know this could also be done with the Microcrystalline wax or if the heat would mess up the crystalline structure. I have to give it a try.
Now that we have discussed this issue, I think what would be really great is to use the woodwax for the first 2 coats then change to the Poly-X for the last coats if you're going for a high build finish that can be buffed to whatever sheen desired! My thoughts anyway. I may try this soon as I'll film it when I do!
Top top work Daniel. Ty
Hi Steve,
Thank you!
A bit of tweeking at the back of the guitar to improve the model for a nicer finish and better usage 💪🤩
Hi KMarie,
Thanks.
They hard wax oil you linked in your description is actually different from the actual Hardwax oil OSMO makes. It is great as well but the Hardwax oil is called PolyX-Oil. High solids Hardwax oil. It is the stuff my friend.
Hi Sweet T Guitars,
Thank you for your input.
By my understanding both are basically Hard Wax Oils with the difference that the PolyX-Oil has more solids suspended in it which makes it to penetrate harder wood types less, according to the Osmo data sheet.
I had to research this a bit and found out that Osmo doesn't recommend the Poly-X on harder woods but recommends the Wood Wax instead.
It might have been better to clarify this in my description perhaps.
Once again thank you for your thoughts. I now want to test both products to experience the difference and be able provide better or more complete advice next time.
No big deal. I actually did add just a little linseed oil to the Poly-X to thin it a little so it would penetrate a little better, so I do agree with that info for sure. It's all good man. I just thought I'd add a little info in case someone needed the info! Have a great evening.
I wanted to correct myself for a comment that I made earlier! The OSMO poky-x Hardwax oil is Osmo's original Hardwax oil. The stuff listed in the description "wood wax" is killer stuff as well. You may get a little better mileage out if the poky-x due to the fact that it's high solids. Just wanted to let you guys know that I am in no way contradicting Daniel. He is a great builder and he knows what works!
Hi Sweet T Guitars,
Thank you very much for this clarification.
Although I think it wasn't necessary . I appreciate all input and thoughts as long as it is given respectfully which you certainly did.
I honestly didn't mean for this to turn into a long drawn out discussion. I, like I said was really just trying to add info to your recommendations due to my experience. No big deal. I love your channel and I look forward to your next video!
We can move on to the chemical signature of a Hersey bar now man😁. I'm sorry I got so into the whole Hardwax oil thing. I hope you can overlook my enthusiasm! Peace brother.
@@SweetTGuitars No worries mate. I really appreciate your enthusiasm and replies. Stay save and have fun building your guitars.
Peace Brother.
Hi buddy, do you find the finish has a weird tacky feel to it at all? Mine seems to, not like really sticky, just a weird tacky feel. The neck still feels very slick though. Cheers
Ps it's to much hardwax oil, I've put it on to thick.
Hi Daniel
I am wanting to finish a walnut body guitar, with osmos hard oil wax which is available here in Canada. I usually grain fill walnut by wet sanding using danish oil as a lubricant to make a slurry, fills nicely and really brings out the wood grain. Does this make sense to you? I watched your video on finishing your two guitars with the hard wax oil and noticed that you sand between each coat, why and what grit of sandpaper do you use? How many coats do you apply in total? Can’t find microcrystalline wax here in Winnipeg, what alternative do you suggest?
I had those same questions. Thanks for asking them. Cheers from Oregon!
Great audio background track.
I didn't know how to finish my DIY kit guitar, now I know. Thank you!
Just a couple of questiona, have you used any kind of grain filler? do you recommend it? what if you want to stain the body? Is hard wax oil good with stains?
Hi Aitor Plaza,
To answer your questions.
No I haven't used grain filler. An Oil finish needs to penetrate the wood as much as possible.
Grain filler can hinder this so I don't recommend it.
In my experience a Hard Wax oil, or any oil, can be used over stains. I did this on several guitars, but I highly recommend to TEST yours FIRST on a piece of scrap. It might depend on the brand/type of stains and/or hard wax oil.
@@UnquendorGuitars Thanks four you fast response. I think that I will try stain + hard wax oil.
Echt heel mooi! Weet je ook wat de Nederlandse naam is van Microcrystalline Wax? Is dat gewoon een soort meubelwas of een soort commandant cleaner?
Hi Maurice,
Ik weet niet of er een Nederlandse naam voor is, en of dat er een Nederlands merk is die iets vergelijkbaars maakt.
Maar de Chestnut Microcrystalline was is ook hier goed verkrijgbaar bij bijv. Baptist.
Microcrystalline wax is vergelijkbaar met meubelwas, maar in plaats van op basis van bijenwas o.i.d. is het een volledig kunstmatige was met een specifieke kristalstructuur waardoor het slijtvaster, water-bestendiger en beter bestand tegen warmte is.
@@UnquendorGuitars Top, dankjewel!
Very good job done mate and the guita👍,I am spray painter by trade but
Counting 🤝, but you're honest builder and crafts man which I did appreciate it hand finished that came up to the very next level 👍👍👍cheers
Sorry to bother you again, but before I mess something up I have to ask: I see people often applying several coats on an oil finish, is there a reason you only applied 2 with the hard wax oil? Does it protect the guitar enough in your opinion?
Oh, wrong video, I was referring to the Morinessa :)
Hi Sekor,
No problem,
It kinda depends on the type of wood and on how thick you apply the hard wax oil. According to the manufacturer 1 or 2 thin coats are sufficient. These days I apply several very very thin coats which I wipe down immediately.
This finish is intended for flooring so it gives good protection once it is fully hardened.
Although I have finished several guitars like this I'm still experimenting to get even better results easier and faster.
@Unquendor Guitars I think I'm gonna try with 3 coats then :) i really have to thank you as I'm new at this and my guitar would look awful right now if it weren't for your videos ahah. I'll stay tuned for new projects of yours. Have a nice day ☺️
Fantastic
How long will the finish last.?Do you have to maintain it ?
Hi Richard,
It should last for a long while. The hard wax oil is meant to be used on flooring and although the manufacturer doesn't mention any specific expected ' life time' I do believe it should hold up for a very long time on a guitar.
For maintenance I advice to annually clean the guitar and apply some wax. Just to keep it nice and even more shiny.
Oh your in big trouble taking your wives tea towels ,don’t let her see this video😬ask me how I know!
Hi Edad,
I'll be fine... I hope.
I use very cheap or old tea towels that are banned from the kitchen.
Old very well used Tea Towels just seem to work the best in my opinion.
I'd say tin :)
Hi MrKrazyKap,
Thank you.
Good to know.
Do you sell guitar?
Hi Aga Doo,
Yes I do sell my guitars and I'm open to do commissions as well.
For more information I recommend visiting my website or sending me an email.
We call them tin cans. lol
Hi Mr. Waffles.
I suspected something like that...
But surely it isn't called a tin can of paint?? Is it?
Or do you refer to it by the amount of paint and not the type of packaging like we are used to here in the Netherlands.
@@UnquendorGuitars if you're referring to a tin can of something specific we usually say can of... paint, tuna, uranium, etc. But if we're talking about the tin can as an object by itself it's a tin can. Of course the US is a big country with a different patois for every region, race, ethnicity, even generations. So it's different depending on where you are and who you're talking to.
This is all even more amusing to me because they're rarely made of tin anymore, everything is aluminum? alumninium?... the 13th element on the periodic table.