I've got to say that this is probably the best video regarding the use, care and description of tung oil application for wooden guitar parts. - mention of reading into MSDS (material safety and data sheets, for those reading this comment) of the product - drying characteristics - clear delineation between untreated and polymerized tung oil - comparison of chatoyancy and texture over time for boiled linseed oil - chatoyancy and texture for polymerized tung oil - emphasis on DIY-ers attempt on heading raw tungoil to make their own polymerization (literally read my mind as I was listening thinking I could make my own) - tung oil tinting color description to figured maple - top product recommendation - original manufacture of recommendation research (this was pretty above and beyond for me at this point in the video) - correct application instructions by the manufacturer
Good video! Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner is the go to book. He covers some of the marketing myths we've all fallen for at one time or another. Unlike other oil finishes, polymerized tung oil actually builds a film. I'm glad it's getting some recognition beyond Tru-oil.
I purchased some Sutherland Welles tung oil the, original stuff, high luster. Got a practice piece of figured maple. Wow that stuff works great!! Thanks so much for this very informative video. It will be put to use on a AAA Flame Maple Warmoth warhead neck!
I've been following you for a while and just wanted to say thanks for the lessons. I never thought I'd be able to build my own bass or guitar. But u helped that become a reality, and I just wanted to say thank you.
I came here for the tung oil. Been really researching Sutherland Welles polymerized tung oil. I think it’s exactly what I’m looking for and I like the fact you can dilute it to achieve different levels of sheen. Guitar neck looks great. I like building furniture so I want to use it for that, but I think you’ve e made my decision for me. 👍
Thanks for the information. I was going to go this route and then a friend said he had some Tru Oil I could use. It was more work than I thought. I tried using my finger like everyone says to do but it left too much on and too much texture. When I sanded it smooth again it went through in spots. I then re coated it and used a rag almost wiping it all off as I rubbed it on. I am on a 3rd application and it’s finally coming around. Not too shiny and it’s smooth. I just hope it dries hard and not sticky. Next time I will try this product and process. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the well presented info. Oil finishes are great in that they're easy to apply and don't require any extra equipment. I kinda decided to try a french polish on my current build, but now I'm curious to try this instead.
Firm beliver in patiently listening to the universe (bare with me I'm not off topic)... years back I found a Jem Kit for very little..when I opened the kit I met the wall of WHICH COLOR?! So the kit remained un-built. Toyed around with many samples but none stayed. This application is the only way to go! JEM a la N4 Hybrd. Thank you!
I watched one of your videos on palomarized tung oil that didn't come out right but you know what I mean and I went to the site you suggested Sutherland that's not right either but you know what I mean and the first time I found a whole kit with everything you need to refinish and maple fretboard but every time I go back to their website it's all deck stained and old furniture so I cannot get back to their website where they have products that were just for guitars if you can help let me know thanks
Another consideration is that linseed oil (and BLO) is reported to darken over time. Tung oil is reported to remain with its original light color. Many "Tung oil" products are mixes that have various amounts of Tung oil in them. Oil marketed as 100% Tung Oil should be exactly that.
Use extreme caution if you purchase pure tung oil. It takes great patience and a long, long time to build up a good finish. For the first year or 2, pure tung oil requires periodic applications.
How protective is Sutherland Welles polymerized tung oil? I really like the Watco Danish oil look but I want more abrasion protection. I have a mahogany body with a birdseye neck-thru. Thank you.
Have you tried the polomerized tung oil sealer for the base before applying the actual finish? Just trying to figure out the best application before finishing a mahogany neck.
Watch my video next Tuesday, October 1, 2024. Sam’s approach is a poor man’s method that is similar to the Katana fret leveling system from Rectify Masters.
Thanks for the video. I have a question for you. How would several coats of the polymerized Lee Valley Tung Oil finish work if, applied after the Lee Valley filler/sealer was applied over a 400 grit finished sanded white rock maple squire tele neck the was stained with Stew-mac amber and mahogany oil stain mixed with denatured alcohol? (No clear lacquer after Polymerized Tung Oil)
How protective is it when cured, as compared to Boiled Linseed oil? Also, is there a solvent that can help you remove excess boiled linseed oil after it has hardened. I just finished a neck with Boiled linseed oil and after the third coat, I had left a little too much on the surface and did not hang it up to dry, I laid it down on two dowels on the fretboard. The oil pooled around the dowels and hardened leaving some ugly thick layers that now I need to remove. The frets are already inserted so, you can see the task I have to accomplish. I learned the lesson!
Thanks for the helpful video. I just have one question: what is the shelf life of an opened can of polymerized tung oil (with the lid closed, of course)?
Thanks for a very informative video. I have one question though (which probably applies to all oil-finished necks regardless of what oil is used): Can I put a water slide decal on a neck finished with polymerized tung oil and if so, how do I go about sealing it onto the surface? (normally there would be a few clear coats of lacquer over the top on a lacquered neck build but I don't know if I can [or should] lacquer over oil).
Informative video as always! I wonder what you think of the Tried & True finishes, which are based on polymerized linseed oil without toxic solvents, driers, etc? Have you tried them?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us! I wish I had seen this video before I did the BLO after watching your previous video on using BLO for the neck/fingerboard. Can I use this polymerized tung oil process on top of the BLO I applied? I applied three layers of BLO but I'm not that happy with the result, so I'd like to put the tung oil on top for the reason you mention in this video. Thank you!
I love pure tong oil, cheap, easy to apply, wipe of the excess that's it. It gives a matt look but on the neck it get polished from playing. If I get a mayor ding I just steam it out of the wood and add again some tung oil, much better then a crack on a regular finnish.
Has anyone ever heard of Waterlox, which is a resin-modified Tung Oil? I have never used it on a guitar, but I have on countertops, and it is very hard and durable.
I don't really like the look of shiny pulled oil finishes, but that's just a personal preference. You guys are really spoiled for choice in the US. We have so few options for these type of finishes in my part of the world. In fact, until this vid, I've never heard of boiled tung. Pure tung is very expensive here in Australia. I usually end up mixing my own pulled finish, so I can get the de-glossed look I'm going for. TBH, I would still use a poly mix for durability and chemical resistance though, especially on a neck. Thanks as always, for your content mate!
I'm a beginner, so thanks for this and your other videos, which are supremely helpful. Question, did you apply the polymerized tung oil to the fretboard as well or use a different finish?
Hi! First of all I want to say you I really appreciate the quality of your videos... I'd have a question: recently I found a nice used strato figured maple neck and it's oil finished. At the moment the finish appears not detailed and boring. Is it possible to apply the polymerized oil on the old oil finish to try to make the wood look nicer and figured like it actually is? thanks
It's always a toss up on whether to go with a natural finish or one with driers and hardeners. I've used pure tung oil before on some food safe stuff, it does take quite a while to harden
So useful Im your new subscriber :>) I have a question sir I have a Rosewood Stratocaster I have been using Howards Feed-N-Wax bees wax & Orange oil wood polish and conditioner on now hoping for a lasting shine :>( when it drys Im back to a flat looking wood .It feels wonderful ! So much so I had origenally intended to poly coat the guitar yet now love the feel and SOUND of the Stratocaster the way it is.Now after watching you'r video hope had returned that it can indeed be very nice looking as well the way I had hoped for. If you can please reply to let me know if I have ruened my chances by using the Howards now for two years perhaps 40 applications . Thank you.
Hi Chris, per your suggestion I've gone ahead and applied the four coats of the Lee Valley product all over my bass. I'm wondering what you thoughts are on the durability of this finish long term, will it withstand normal wear and tear? With that in mind would you apply another product afterwards? Thanks, Dan
sweet finish I love oil for the neck... ever use rosewood oil? yessir real rosewood oil, smells like rosewood and has a very different look and feel.. I use it on my fretboards, ebony and rosewood, lil' spendy but you can adulterate it with alcohol to stretch it and make it not so thick and apply quickly.. works nice and LASTS a long time, rosewood necks LOVE IT as its their natural oils... its strong at first but then after a month or so you actually have to put your nose on it to smell it, for the first week or so it permeates the room but smells very good, like a sandalwood or nag champa aroma.. stuff it in your case right away.. :-)
Rosewood oil is rosewood in name only. It is not made from the same species used for making guitars. Rosewood oil is used for making perfume and I would NEVER use it on a guitar.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks. I assumed not. I really like the feel of an oil finish as opposed to a poly, there's just that tradeoff in durability, but if you play you're gonna get dings and scratches anyway.
the best ringing guitars i have ever played were the ones that were stripped to bare wood. those electric guitars were like acoustics they rang so well. it is well accepted that the drier and more open the wood is the better the instrument rings and sounds (i.e. 50s LesPauls) that was one reason the old lacquer finishes sounder good. lacquer is thin when applied, hence why cars that were painted in the stuff were given so many coats. my concern with tung oil is that it is a thick gummy oil. i give you it will look great, but my concern is that the product will seal and plug up the wood, thereby deadening the acoustic nature of the instrument. idk, many times sound and aesthetics are at odds on instruments. However, fender dips theirs in poly and people love their instruments. so who knows.
They quit making the Formby's tung oil that I used on my previous Music Man, so I've been in search of a replacement for my next build, appreciate the recommendation!
@@HighlineGuitars The bottle says “Pure Tung Oil” but the drying time is 12hrs between coats. It has no formulation written on the side so I guess I’ll just apply lightly, wipe off and let dry/cure for 12 hrs between coats. It says maximum of 4 coats. Thanks for the advice. I’m thinking of thinning it it with Mineral Spirits to get better penetration. Good idea ??
According to violin, viola and cello makers and those who restore masterpieces such oils are the worst villain of tone because it dampens the sound and is too deep into the wood to remove even if you have removed it from the look and feel once it is done they say your screwed. They recommend varnish.
@@Paul_Lenard_Ewing Electric guitars are TOTALLY DIFFERENT than violins, violas, and cellos. That should be obvious. None of those instruments are equipped with pickups. They rely on the vibration of the wood to produce sound. Electric guitars don’t. They rely on their pickups to produce sound. You can saturate the wood with BLO or tung oil and it won’t make any difference. I know this because I have made hundreds of electric guitars and dozens of acoustic guitars, mandolins, and violins.
Wow, @shippyshop, thanks! Your support is greatly appreciated. I hope you'll consider polymerized tung oil as a finish and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
I've got to say that this is probably the best video regarding the use, care and description of tung oil application for wooden guitar parts.
- mention of reading into MSDS (material safety and data sheets, for those reading this comment) of the product
- drying characteristics
- clear delineation between untreated and polymerized tung oil
- comparison of chatoyancy and texture over time for boiled linseed oil
- chatoyancy and texture for polymerized tung oil
- emphasis on DIY-ers attempt on heading raw tungoil to make their own polymerization (literally read my mind as I was listening thinking I could make my own)
- tung oil tinting color description to figured maple
- top product recommendation
- original manufacture of recommendation research (this was pretty above and beyond for me at this point in the video)
- correct application instructions by the manufacturer
Good video! Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner is the go to book. He covers some of the marketing myths we've all fallen for at one time or another. Unlike other oil finishes, polymerized tung oil actually builds a film. I'm glad it's getting some recognition beyond Tru-oil.
I'm in Ottawa Canada where Lee Valley has it's head office. I've used their polymerized tung oil. It's good stuff.
Thanks! I have been watching a number of your videos on finishing guitars and find them very informative and they have helped a lot
Thanks Ken! I really appreciate the bump. I'm planning to purchase a cheap spray gun that I will dedicate to spraying Solarex ICBINL.
I purchased some Sutherland Welles tung oil the, original stuff, high luster. Got a practice piece of figured maple. Wow that stuff works great!! Thanks so much for this very informative video. It will be put to use on a AAA Flame Maple Warmoth warhead neck!
Awesome! Glad to hear it's working for you.
I've been following you for a while and just wanted to say thanks for the lessons. I never thought I'd be able to build my own bass or guitar. But u helped that become a reality, and I just wanted to say thank you.
Great to hear!
Thanks!
It's I who should be thanking you Matt. Very much appreciated!!
I came here for the tung oil. Been really researching Sutherland Welles polymerized tung oil. I think it’s exactly what I’m looking for and I like the fact you can dilute it to achieve different levels of sheen. Guitar neck looks great. I like building furniture so I want to use it for that, but I think you’ve e made my decision for me. 👍
Thanks for the shout out!
In a world of Tru Oil, your product is better.
Thanks for the information. I was going to go this route and then a friend said he had some Tru Oil I could use. It was more work than I thought. I tried using my finger like everyone says to do but it left too much on and too much texture. When I sanded it smooth again it went through in spots. I then re coated it and used a rag almost wiping it all off as I rubbed it on. I am on a 3rd application and it’s finally coming around. Not too shiny and it’s smooth. I just hope it dries hard and not sticky. Next time I will try this product and process. Thanks for sharing.
Very nice, love the finish. And I just bought a guitar to rebuild. Perfect timing.
I am super keen to try Tung oil finish and have a couple of necks soon the be ready… great timing, thanks!
Thanks for your channel and videos. I like when new video pops up they always deliver new info and inspiration
Thanks so much for sharing all the information !
Thanks for the info. It looks great. Also, the warmer hue will ensure warmer tone. ;)
Thanks for the well presented info. Oil finishes are great in that they're easy to apply and don't require any extra equipment. I kinda decided to try a french polish on my current build, but now I'm curious to try this instead.
Looking forward to see build series for this guitar
Firm beliver in patiently listening to the universe (bare with me I'm not off topic)... years back I found a Jem Kit for very little..when I opened the kit I met the wall of WHICH COLOR?! So the kit remained un-built. Toyed around with many samples but none stayed. This application is the only way to go! JEM a la N4 Hybrd. Thank you!
thank you
Can you get it on thick enough to hide the edge of a water slide decal?
Very helpful, indeed. Thanks!
Great idea! I think it looked fantastic. I’ve got a new build coming together and I think I’m going to go this route. Thanks for the heads-up 👍🏼
I watched one of your videos on palomarized tung oil that didn't come out right but you know what I mean and I went to the site you suggested Sutherland that's not right either but you know what I mean and the first time I found a whole kit with everything you need to refinish and maple fretboard but every time I go back to their website it's all deck stained and old furniture so I cannot get back to their website where they have products that were just for guitars if you can help let me know thanks
Would love to see you review the Botanical / citrus version of this tung oil finish!
Watch today's video.
How does differ from using Tru-oil & wax ?
Thank for the thanks! I really appreciate the support. I don’t use Tru Oil, so I can’t say what if any difference there might be.
Thanks
Talking about Transtint with his Jeff Jewitt tee shirt on. Nice! That's good video making.
I didn't even think about it. LOL!!
Another consideration is that linseed oil (and BLO) is reported to darken over time. Tung oil is reported to remain with its original light color.
Many "Tung oil" products are mixes that have various amounts of Tung oil in them. Oil marketed as 100% Tung Oil should be exactly that.
Use extreme caution if you purchase pure tung oil. It takes great patience and a long, long time to build up a good finish. For the first year or 2, pure tung oil requires periodic applications.
My advice is to stay away from pure tung oil for the exact reasons you mentioned.
How protective is Sutherland Welles polymerized tung oil? I really like the Watco Danish oil look but I want more abrasion protection. I have a mahogany body with a birdseye neck-thru. Thank you.
If you're worried about abrasion protection, an oil finish is not for you.
@@HighlineGuitars Of all the oil finishes you've used, which is your preferred?
@@pigjubby1 Polymerized tung oil.
How many coats did you use for the neck, body and fretboard? I'd think the fretboard would have less coats, 2-3?
Whatever looks right.
Nice hat, nice guitar!
Maybe I missed it, but did you also apply it to the fretboard? I that chechen? Thanks again Chris!
Yes and yes.
Have you tried the polomerized tung oil sealer for the base before applying the actual finish? Just trying to figure out the best application before finishing a mahogany neck.
No. I just use the regular PTO.
Do I need to use the Lee Valley Tung Oil Sealer before the High Sheen Oil?
Watch my video next Tuesday, October 1, 2024. Sam’s approach is a poor man’s method that is similar to the Katana fret leveling system from Rectify Masters.
Thanks for the video. I have a question for you. How would several coats of the polymerized Lee Valley Tung Oil finish work if, applied after the Lee Valley filler/sealer was applied over a 400 grit finished sanded white rock maple squire tele neck the was stained with Stew-mac amber and mahogany oil stain mixed with denatured alcohol? (No clear lacquer after Polymerized Tung Oil)
It will work fine. Test on scrap.
Thanks, that is just what I needed to know.
How protective is it when cured, as compared to Boiled Linseed oil? Also, is there a solvent that can help you remove excess boiled linseed oil after it has hardened. I just finished a neck with Boiled linseed oil and after the third coat, I had left a little too much on the surface and did not hang it up to dry, I laid it down on two dowels on the fretboard. The oil pooled around the dowels and hardened leaving some ugly thick layers that now I need to remove. The frets are already inserted so, you can see the task I have to accomplish. I learned the lesson!
Polymerized tung oil offers more protection than BLO. The only way I know of to remove dried BLO is sandpaper.
Nice hat! I've got the same one... 😂
Thanks for the product recommendations!
Thanks for the helpful video. I just have one question: what is the shelf life of an opened can of polymerized tung oil (with the lid closed, of course)?
No idea.
Sutherland's website says that it will last forever.
Thanks for a very informative video.
I have one question though (which probably applies to all oil-finished necks regardless of what oil is used): Can I put a water slide decal on a neck finished with polymerized tung oil and if so, how do I go about sealing it onto the surface? (normally there would be a few clear coats of lacquer over the top on a lacquered neck build but I don't know if I can [or should] lacquer over oil).
I get this question all the time. Yes you can lacquer over cured oil.
Informative video as always! I wonder what you think of the Tried & True finishes, which are based on polymerized linseed oil without toxic solvents, driers, etc? Have you tried them?
No, I have not tried them.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us! I wish I had seen this video before I did the BLO after watching your previous video on using BLO for the neck/fingerboard. Can I use this polymerized tung oil process on top of the BLO I applied? I applied three layers of BLO but I'm not that happy with the result, so I'd like to put the tung oil on top for the reason you mention in this video. Thank you!
I don't think you'll like the results. The tung oil needs to soak into the wood and the BLO will prevent that.
@@HighlineGuitars BLO it is then. Thank you!
I love pure tong oil, cheap, easy to apply, wipe of the excess that's it. It gives a matt look but on the neck it get polished from playing. If I get a mayor ding I just steam it out of the wood and add again some tung oil, much better then a crack on a regular finnish.
Try polymerized tung oil for a real treat.
Has anyone ever heard of Waterlox, which is a resin-modified Tung Oil? I have never used it on a guitar, but I have on countertops, and it is very hard and durable.
I haven't used it but have heard of furniture builders using it. Sounds like a good product from what I've gathered
We make two different resin/polymerized tung oil products. Our Murdoch's line and our wiping varnish.
Order placed :>) 1 Quart on its way :>) Thank you very much Tom.
Lots of great knowledge from this video. Thank you very much!
That looks great! Did you use the "Medium Brown" flavour of Transtint? Or a different Brown?
Yes I did.
Do you have a link for the trans-tint brown dye stain you used?
Unfortunately, I don’t.
@@HighlineGuitars do you know where I could get some? Or will any brown dye work?
@@jazzguardians homesteadfinishingproducts.com/products-we-offer/stains-and-colorants/
Can it be applied over boiled linseed oil?
Sure.
Looks great!! Can it be buffed out if needed/wanted?
I've just seen your linseed oil finish video and I wonder wich one you recommend, this tung oil or linseed oil for a flamed maple neck ? thank you
Either one. They both work well.
@@HighlineGuitars thank you
Thanks great info
I don't really like the look of shiny pulled oil finishes, but that's just a personal preference. You guys are really spoiled for choice in the US. We have so few options for these type of finishes in my part of the world. In fact, until this vid, I've never heard of boiled tung. Pure tung is very expensive here in Australia. I usually end up mixing my own pulled finish, so I can get the de-glossed look I'm going for. TBH, I would still use a poly mix for durability and chemical resistance though, especially on a neck. Thanks as always, for your content mate!
Hi, do you know if there is a similar alternative in Europe? It seems a very good product
Sorry, I don't know what's available in Europe.
Do these finishes play well with water slide decals?
Yes, but you need to make sure they are fully dry before applying a decal.
Great video. Are you adding your name or logo to the headstock in some way?
No.
I'm a beginner, so thanks for this and your other videos, which are supremely helpful. Question, did you apply the polymerized tung oil to the fretboard as well or use a different finish?
PTO for the whole thing.
Hi! First of all I want to say you I really appreciate the quality of your videos...
I'd have a question: recently I found a nice used strato figured maple neck and it's oil finished.
At the moment the finish appears not detailed and boring. Is it possible to apply the polymerized oil on the old oil finish to try to make the wood look nicer and figured like it actually is?
thanks
Without having it in my hands to examine, there is no way I can advise.
It's always a toss up on whether to go with a natural finish or one with driers and hardeners. I've used pure tung oil before on some food safe stuff, it does take quite a while to harden
Polymerized tung oil doesn't contain driers or hardeners.
So useful Im your new subscriber :>) I have a question sir I have a Rosewood Stratocaster I have been using Howards Feed-N-Wax
bees wax & Orange oil wood polish and conditioner on now hoping for a lasting shine :>( when it drys Im back to a flat looking wood .It feels wonderful ! So much so I had origenally intended to poly coat the guitar yet now love the feel and SOUND of the Stratocaster the way it is.Now after watching you'r video hope had returned that it can indeed be very nice looking as well the way I had hoped for. If you can please reply to let me know if I have ruened my chances by using the Howards now for two years perhaps 40 applications . Thank you.
Are there any issues using polymerized tung oil on a neck or body with binding? Will it adhere to the binding? Thanks!
I don't know. I haven't tested it yet.
Have you or anyone here tried the Botanical product and if so what's your experience?
Hi Chris, per your suggestion I've gone ahead and applied the four coats of the Lee Valley product all over my bass. I'm wondering what you thoughts are on the durability of this finish long term, will it withstand normal wear and tear? With that in mind would you apply another product afterwards? Thanks, Dan
Yes and no.
What oil or products do you use for your rosewood and rosewood like fingerboards? Thanks
The same as the neck. BLO or polymerized tung oil.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks!!!
great video. how does this product work on the fingerboard of a fretless bass to keep it from wearing out so fast?
It won't prevent wear. For that, you need a clear coat.
sweet finish I love oil for the neck... ever use rosewood oil? yessir real rosewood oil, smells like rosewood and has a very different look and feel.. I use it on my fretboards, ebony and rosewood, lil' spendy but you can adulterate it with alcohol to stretch it and make it not so thick and apply quickly.. works nice and LASTS a long time, rosewood necks LOVE IT as its their natural oils... its strong at first but then after a month or so you actually have to put your nose on it to smell it, for the first week or so it permeates the room but smells very good, like a sandalwood or nag champa aroma.. stuff it in your case right away.. :-)
Rosewood oil is rosewood in name only. It is not made from the same species used for making guitars. Rosewood oil is used for making perfume and I would NEVER use it on a guitar.
On a guitar body, I'm guessing you still need to use grain filler and sanding sealer first?
Only if you want a smooth surface with no grain texture.
What would be different about using “pure Tung oil” than polymerized? Is pure ok? I can’t find any polymerized Tung oil locally… thanks!
Pure tung oil takes weeks to dry and cure. Polymerized tung oil takes hours.
Will you be adding any other topcoat to the body or just sticking with the tung oil?
No topcoat.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks. I assumed not. I really like the feel of an oil finish as opposed to a poly, there's just that tradeoff in durability, but if you play you're gonna get dings and scratches anyway.
the best ringing guitars i have ever played were the ones that were stripped to bare wood. those electric guitars were like acoustics they rang so well.
it is well accepted that the drier and more open the wood is the better the instrument rings and sounds (i.e. 50s LesPauls)
that was one reason the old lacquer finishes sounder good. lacquer is thin when applied, hence why cars that were painted in the stuff were given so many coats.
my concern with tung oil is that it is a thick gummy oil.
i give you it will look great, but my concern is that the product will seal and plug up the wood, thereby deadening the acoustic nature of the instrument.
idk, many times sound and aesthetics are at odds on instruments. However, fender dips theirs in poly and people love their instruments. so who knows.
Not everyone likes guitars that ring. For many, sustain is overrated.
Thanks for your dedicated video! And I have a question. Do you think that we can apply tung oil after dyeing guitar with leather dye?
Yes, you can. As with any dye, make sure it is completely dry before you apply any type of oil.
Can Stew Mac color tone be used instead of transtint?
I think Colortone is made by Transtint so yes, but test first.
They quit making the Formby's tung oil that I used on my previous Music Man, so I've been in search of a replacement for my next build, appreciate the recommendation!
Can you still apply eurethane over it or will it ruin the look and feel?
Probably. But why? It doesn't need it.
Dang it!! So it's tung oil and not tongue oil? I've been doing it all wrong. So spitting on the neck is not going to do any good?
Maybe I should do a video about how to apply tongue oil so you don't get splinters. ;-)
@@HighlineGuitars - It's too late for me. I got scars to prove it. Thanks for the nice vid.
You making me jealous of that tung oil. Let me grab one! hahahah Nice intro man!
Great advice. What’s your thoughts on regular tung oil [not polymerised] (my bottle says 12 hrs drying time between coats) ?
It's probably not pure tung oil. It probably has chemical drying agents and thinners added to speed up drying. Wear a mask and gloves.
@@HighlineGuitars The bottle says “Pure Tung Oil” but the drying time is 12hrs between coats. It has no formulation written on the side so I guess I’ll just apply lightly, wipe off and let dry/cure for 12 hrs between coats. It says maximum of 4 coats. Thanks for the advice. I’m thinking of thinning it it with Mineral Spirits to get better penetration. Good idea ??
@@GodzillaGoesGaga Sorry, but I can't offer advice on a product I know nothing about and haven't used. You should contact the manufacturer.
@@HighlineGuitars afair comment. Thanks for your thoughts and videos through. Very useful stuff.
New subscriber based on this video. 👍🏼
whats your opinion of osmo 1101 extra thin?
It's great for woods like Cocobolo, Rosewood, and other oily species.
@@HighlineGuitars I’m using black limba and maple with a walnut top and wenge fretboard, should I try P-tung oil? Or osmo good
@@xfiremaidenx1 I would use the Osmo since Wenge is an oily wood.
@@HighlineGuitars thank you! I have been really enjoying your channel have been checking out your back log and learning lots!
hi, Can You Put Shellac Over Polyurethane ?
Sure. But you need to scuff sand the polyurethane so the shellac will stick. TEST ON SCRAP!!
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you
0:01-0:07 could easily be a guitar meme 😆
i always get nervous when I see an open container next to the person working away - I have knocked things over so many times!!
According to violin, viola and cello makers and those who restore masterpieces such oils are the worst villain of tone because it dampens the sound and is too deep into the wood to remove even if you have removed it from the look and feel once it is done they say your screwed. They recommend varnish.
So what. I don’t make violins, violas, or cellos.
@@HighlineGuitars Why strive for the best when good enough will do. Interesting argument.
@@Paul_Lenard_Ewing Electric guitars are TOTALLY DIFFERENT than violins, violas, and cellos. That should be obvious. None of those instruments are equipped with pickups. They rely on the vibration of the wood to produce sound. Electric guitars don’t. They rely on their pickups to produce sound. You can saturate the wood with BLO or tung oil and it won’t make any difference. I know this because I have made hundreds of electric guitars and dozens of acoustic guitars, mandolins, and violins.
Apocalypse Now napalm clip
hahaha.. funny intro on this one..
dont snff that tounge oil it cant be good for you
Thanks!
Wow, @shippyshop, thanks! Your support is greatly appreciated. I hope you'll consider polymerized tung oil as a finish and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Thanks
Thanks for the bump!! Very much appreciated.
Thanks!
Hey, THANKS! I really appreciate your tip.