That's weird everybody always goes on about how overspeed model trains are and the consolidation you have has footboard so it could do switching which normally would be done at a slow speed. They usually complain about slow speed running being uneven or stalling but here it is you have a good motor
You never mentioned that these brass engines are mostly a hand assemble work of art. They will last many more years then the molded plastic ones and become passed on in the future.
I agree with your first comment but disagree with the second as there is no reason a plastic bodied locomotive will not last for many years if looked after. One area plastic has it over brass is the level of detail that is being achieved today with specialist machinery and techniques, it's mind boggling how fine and crisp this detail is and improving! I collect both.
@@anthonyxuereb792 To be fair, plastic has improved considerably. There are a few companies out there that do try to produce a quality product. But still, it is hard to match the weight of brass.
Plastic is a patrolieum base product and will never stand the test of time (why do plastic gears crack) because they shrink. A good investment is a brass train. They can always be repaired by a craftsman. @@anthonyxuereb792
Wonderful explanation and detail. I currently aquired a approximately 65 year old Tenshodo Big Boy...H0 scale. I've a lot a head of me. Thank you for your wisdom!
Nice brass engine. I replaced all the magnets in my Pitman motors with rare earth magnets and it made a BIG difference in current draw and now they will "creep" around the tracks. Cheers from eastern TN
If that is the case, try practicing on some other things first. With practice comes familiarity, and you will soon gain the confidence you need to tackle the loco.
Pittman were high quality American-made Motors. An older Model Railroader Magazine from the 40s and 50s you will see advertisements for their various Motors that they produced as well as spare parts when they would make an upgraded motor they would make sure that it would be physically the same as the previous one so you could upgrade your locomotive to the new engine. In the old days they were the best there was a mark of quality. For a Japanese company to use American Motors in there steam locomotives and Diesel's shows how good they were at the time.
Brass locomotives are nice!!!! I own both brass and plastic locomotives,I love the level of detail and the fact that they're more prototypically correct size wise,but there are problems, I'm a 19th century modeler,and there hasn't been much produced or made in decades as far as new locos for this time period,all of my brass locomotives that i have,has been out of production decades ago,it is hard to find parts,unless I fabricate them myself,and whereas the locomotives themselves are very nice, they all have the same cheap crappy open frame motors that you find in that tyco/mantua stuff,and they're very very hard to come by as well!! Especially when you look at the fact that some of brass locos I have were only a (limited run) when they were being made,but I also have plastic locomotives,I have a bunch of the rivarossi 4-4-0s,the last ones that rivarossi made, before going out of business,not only do they have better more powerful smooth running motors but they outperform a lot of expensive brass locomotives!!!! And I can run them for hours on end without any problems!!!! Yeah I love my brass locomotives,but I am not getting rid of my plastic workhorse rivarossi 4-4-0s anytime soon..................
I may seem like I am all brass, but plastic has it's place as well. I have had many plastic locos that have performed well, after some adjustments. But brass is more durable, and can be worked on and modified more effectively than plastic, IMO. And yes... The old open-frame motors are one of the first things to replace. They are okay motors, but just not for this application.
nice narrative, do you have video showing the actual work? would love to see dismantling and reassembly..... I have purchased a couple of good used brass and want to dive into them
Matthew - I think you'd be surprised what sound decoders you can actually fit into a brass locomotive boiler - even with the weight installed. I installed a Loksound 5 micro and speaker into the boiler of a PSC 0-8-0 switcher. Yea, it's a tight fit but it works. And I only have two wires running to the tender (instead of 6 to the boiler) for the rear headlamp. Each type of installation has its pluses & minuses but I really like having the sound come from the locomotive rather than the tender. Beautiful job on getting your 2-8-0 running so smoothly at low speed. I just LOVE seeing any locomotive operate at
Very nice model there! Living down under I don't tend to see sprung wheels too often (we never had anything of the sort from memory!) but that's a very cool way to keep contact with the rails. Out of curiosity what motor do you use to replace the pittman? I have an old tenshodo model (some GN 2-8-2 converted to an SP 2-8-4) and the motor is very worn so I'd like to replace it. Cheers.
Since I found out about Right of Way Industries, I’ve become fascinated by brass trains. While I don’t own any, they’re very nice to look at. The Koreans are great at brass trains. The downside however is that they’re very expensive. I model O gauge but you got a nice HO collection.
Nice video. I just picked up a United PFM articulated Y6 2-8-8-2 my first HO brass loco. Has the same motor. Was wondering what Faulhaber motor you used to replace the original. Also do you know where I can get the stub shaft the connects the rear driven gear to the front drive gear?
I would suggest checking NWSL first, since they are back in business. That is North West Short Lines as I recall. As far as the motor, I believe it was a 1624. Just do a youtube search on that size, and it should provide some answers.
Excellent video ! May I ask you what is your source for American brass locomotives ?. I already know suppliers for European brass locomotives but I would like to build some American locos as well.
Actually, I don't know of any current suppliers. All of mine are old, mostly from the 50s-80s. I get mine mostly from ebay, but I know a lot of guys use brasstrains.com as an exchange.
great, now i've become a brass fanatic...... Besides the regular maintenance oiling, motor,bearings. What other work does brass require. Soldering when things come off?.. I've been highly interested in my first brass like the 2-6-0 B&M B-15 Mogul. great idea using JB or hot glue. Interesting motor choice..lol, i've been buying some very cheap 5 pole motors with flywheels by the dozens. always good to have spare parts. Those NWSL springs were a good idea and thanx for the demo
It should never be necessary to solder anything on a well maintained brass loco... Just lubrication and wheel cleaning is all it should take. And yes... JB weld can make a great motor mount.
NTheChocolateFactory Eventually I will, but life issues interfere with progress so often. I believe brass should be painted if it is to be used on a working model RR.
Show notes fill in the parts links you can update this video by using a link in ur reply that way u can keep people up to date without having to do the whole thing over
In this case, David, it is a Faulhaber 2230 which was salvage from an old HP printer. They can be found second-hand for sale on auction sites, but they are pricey, even used. I am sure a more affordable alternative is available.
Actually, this is a motor made by a German company named Faulhaber. It was taken out of an old Hewlett Packard plotter, IIRC. The gearing is original to the locomotive though, so the performance is really in the motor, which can't be beat, IMO. Of course, using a non-standard motor like this, I mounted it using epoxy putty from JB Weld, and a coupling kit from NWSL.
Severus Barrowstone I just wanted to say that as someone who is beginning to dip into brass locomotives, this video is incredibly helpful! I’m surprised at how much of a difference the springs make. Quick question: I often see many models that appear to be slanted and/or sagging. Example: one part of the loco or tender is leaning towards the front, vice versa. What could be the reason for that to happen? Can it be fixed?
@@CaptainDynamite110 there could be a few reasons for this. Most likely is, that they had the body off the frame, and didn't get it back on properly. But it could also be something more serious, like a bent or broken frame caused by droppage. It really depends on the individual case, but I think these issues can usually be corrected.
@@CaptainDynamite110 Often times this can be caused by a bent frame, or tender truck that are also bent. Gentle bending can usually correct this problem.
Yes... I am still around. Just working a lot lately, and have not had a chance to put up many vids. In the near future though, I do plan on doing a video on how I go about evaluating and refurbishing a brass engine. I just need to find the right candidate, and the time to do the work and record it. Stay tuned.
@@matthewpering8091 i have a texas pacific m1 hallmark model made in 1981 that i purchased through the big auction site. it is my first brass engine. i know nothing of how to work on them. would you consider me sending you the engine for your video series and of course pay you whatever you ask for repairs and decoder install? it would be a great service to me although of course you dont know me so thats irrelevant haha.
@@briarfire4924 It is worth considering. What kind of decoder do you have, and would this also be a sound and light install as well? Perhaps you could post a private video of what you have, and we can go from there. Thanks.
@@matthewpering8091 im not sure how to make private videos. i can try but all i have is the engine and tender. it is the only piece of ho equipment i have. im completely new to ho. i dont even have a piece of track yet. however i do know i want all my engines dcc and sound and lights. i would need you to direct me to the parts id need as again, i have nothing other than the engine and tender
Yes, I do my own painting. But there are many videos out there covering this subject. I will tell you I use automotive primer, not model primer, and make sure it is not filler primer, or you will lose detail.
Do you know any other manufacturers who make springs for brass engines, NWSL is going out of business. I just bought a Westside Models FEF-3 and it has the same problem of having springs that are too hard.
I am sorry, but I know of no other supplier who carries these springs. This is indeed sad news about NWSL. With some experimentation, I could make my own springs, but that also requires sourcing the right wire to make the springs, too. But this is unfortunate for you guys that don't already have a supply. Maybe someone else reading this will offer some guidance.
Just for added clarification, I don't advocate ignoring proper lubrication that long just because the oil claims it will last that long. A model loco operates under very different conditions than a clock in a case, shielded for dust and dirt. With regular running, 3-6 months would be the longest I would push it.
Best I got so far with Faulhaber motor. Has not been completely stripped. Just re-motored and oiled and gearbox cleaned and re-lubed. th-cam.com/video/T3cw_WZS8Bc/w-d-xo.html
Really smooth , and the suspension is wonderful.
Sprung drivers were advertised as being able to keep and rail contact on uneven rail as well as the locomotive running better
That's weird everybody always goes on about how overspeed model trains are and the consolidation you have has footboard so it could do switching which normally would be done at a slow speed. They usually complain about slow speed running being uneven or stalling but here it is you have a good motor
Wow...just beautiful.
I have the same loco off of ebay. Cost me a little over 150. Runs beautifully
You never mentioned that these brass engines are mostly a hand assemble work of art. They will last many more years then the molded plastic ones and become passed on in the future.
You are correct, Martin, I did fail to do so. Those to are very important points as well.
I agree with your first comment but disagree with the second as there is no reason a plastic bodied locomotive will not last for many years if looked after. One area plastic has it over brass is the level of detail that is being achieved today with specialist machinery and techniques, it's mind boggling how fine and crisp this detail is and improving! I collect both.
@@anthonyxuereb792 To be fair, plastic has improved considerably. There are a few companies out there that do try to produce a quality product. But still, it is hard to match the weight of brass.
Yes I agree with you there.@@matthewpering8091
Plastic is a patrolieum base product and will never stand the test of time (why do plastic gears crack) because they shrink. A good investment is a brass train. They can always be repaired by a craftsman. @@anthonyxuereb792
Wonderful explanation and detail. I currently aquired a approximately 65 year old Tenshodo Big Boy...H0 scale. I've a lot a head of me. Thank you for your wisdom!
Nice brass engine. I replaced all the magnets in my Pitman motors with rare earth magnets and it made a BIG difference in current draw and now they will "creep" around the tracks. Cheers from eastern TN
Is there a source for magnets that specifically fit them?
enjoyed the video a lot and i leaned a few things. Thanks for sharing.
Layout tour Layout tour layout tour
Very,very nice representation of a scale brass locomotive. Thanks for sharing. I just started my collection.
I just purchased my first brass diesel , its an SD7 for B&O . I am afraid to paint it .
If that is the case, try practicing on some other things first. With practice comes familiarity, and you will soon gain the confidence you need to tackle the loco.
Whistle sound is really remarkable - sooooo real.
Pittman were high quality American-made Motors. An older Model Railroader Magazine from the 40s and 50s you will see advertisements for their various Motors that they produced as well as spare parts when they would make an upgraded motor they would make sure that it would be physically the same as the previous one so you could upgrade your locomotive to the new engine. In the old days they were the best there was a mark of quality. For a Japanese company to use American Motors in there steam locomotives and Diesel's shows how good they were at the time.
Let's face it regardless of scale we all run our trains at Lionel speed. Most of us just turn our train on and watch them run.
If I had a brass locomotive I would not have the nerve even try to take it apart. I know my limitations
Brass locomotives are nice!!!! I own both brass and plastic locomotives,I love the level of detail and the fact that they're more prototypically correct size wise,but there are problems, I'm a 19th century modeler,and there hasn't been much produced or made in decades as far as new locos for this time period,all of my brass locomotives that i have,has been out of production decades ago,it is hard to find parts,unless I fabricate them myself,and whereas the locomotives themselves are very nice, they all have the same cheap crappy open frame motors that you find in that tyco/mantua stuff,and they're very very hard to come by as well!! Especially when you look at the fact that some of brass locos I have were only a (limited run) when they were being made,but I also have plastic locomotives,I have a bunch of the rivarossi 4-4-0s,the last ones that rivarossi made, before going out of business,not only do they have better more powerful smooth running motors but they outperform a lot of expensive brass locomotives!!!! And I can run them for hours on end without any problems!!!! Yeah I love my brass locomotives,but I am not getting rid of my plastic workhorse rivarossi 4-4-0s anytime soon..................
I may seem like I am all brass, but plastic has it's place as well. I have had many plastic locos that have performed well, after some adjustments. But brass is more durable, and can be worked on and modified more effectively than plastic, IMO. And yes... The old open-frame motors are one of the first things to replace. They are okay motors, but just not for this application.
Do you have the golden spike set by balboa or united?
Yes, Rivarossi made very smooth running locomotives and delicately detailed.
nice narrative, do you have video showing the actual work? would love to see dismantling and reassembly..... I have purchased a couple of good used brass and want to dive into them
I do not have video of the work I did on this particular engine, however, I am planning to shoot video of the next one I do. Stay tuned.
I also would really like to watch a video on how you do the work on these jewels....please hurry!!! lol@@matthewpering8091
Smooth!
Matthew - I think you'd be surprised what sound decoders you can actually fit into a brass locomotive boiler - even with the weight installed. I installed a Loksound 5 micro and speaker into the boiler of a PSC 0-8-0 switcher. Yea, it's a tight fit but it works. And I only have two wires running to the tender (instead of 6 to the boiler) for the rear headlamp. Each type of installation has its pluses & minuses but I really like having the sound come from the locomotive rather than the tender.
Beautiful job on getting your 2-8-0 running so smoothly at low speed. I just LOVE seeing any locomotive operate at
Very nice model there! Living down under I don't tend to see sprung wheels too often (we never had anything of the sort from memory!) but that's a very cool way to keep contact with the rails. Out of curiosity what motor do you use to replace the pittman? I have an old tenshodo model (some GN 2-8-2 converted to an SP 2-8-4) and the motor is very worn so I'd like to replace it. Cheers.
Since I found out about Right of Way Industries, I’ve become fascinated by brass trains. While I don’t own any, they’re very nice to look at. The Koreans are great at brass trains. The downside however is that they’re very expensive. I model O gauge but you got a nice HO collection.
Nice video. I just picked up a United PFM articulated Y6 2-8-8-2 my first HO brass loco. Has the same motor. Was wondering what Faulhaber motor you used to replace the original. Also do you know where I can get the stub shaft the connects the rear driven gear to the front drive gear?
I would suggest checking NWSL first, since they are back in business. That is North West Short Lines as I recall. As far as the motor, I believe it was a 1624. Just do a youtube search on that size, and it should provide some answers.
Great video even after 2 years! Brass rules!!!!
What about graphite for lubrication?
Excellent video ! May I ask you what is your source for American brass locomotives ?. I already know suppliers for European brass locomotives but I would like to build some American locos as well.
Actually, I don't know of any current suppliers. All of mine are old, mostly from the 50s-80s. I get mine mostly from ebay, but I know a lot of guys use brasstrains.com as an exchange.
@@matthewpering8091 Thanks for the answer.
Search Proxibid or CalAuctions.com. Most auction houses offer shipping for a fee.
@@bruteforce76 Thank you very much.
I say yes but my wallet says no.
great, now i've become a brass fanatic...... Besides the regular maintenance oiling, motor,bearings. What other work does brass require. Soldering when things come off?.. I've been highly interested in my first brass like the 2-6-0 B&M B-15 Mogul. great idea using JB or hot glue. Interesting motor choice..lol, i've been buying some very cheap 5 pole motors with flywheels by the dozens. always good to have spare parts. Those NWSL springs were a good idea and thanx for the demo
It should never be necessary to solder anything on a well maintained brass loco... Just lubrication and wheel cleaning is all it should take. And yes... JB weld can make a great motor mount.
Exactly why I buy brass too :)
Do you eventually paint your brass locos?
Yes... This loco will eventually get paint and decals.
@@matthewpering8091 thanks
Are you going to paint this model?
NTheChocolateFactory Eventually I will, but life issues interfere with progress so often. I believe brass should be painted if it is to be used on a working model RR.
Show notes fill in the parts links you can update this video by using a link in ur reply that way u can keep people up to date without having to do the whole thing over
Why don't you say the name of the auction site? Are you talking about eBay?
Yeah... It is Ebay. Just not wanting to promote any auction site over any other.
Nice engine btw 👍😁
Too bad they reversing levers do not move like the real thing
Wow! Really liked your video. I’m trying to learn more about brass locomotives. Thank you, very informative. I wish you had more videos!
I should have the next out by Christmas.
@@matthewpering8091 Wonderful, I’m looking forward to seeing it! Thank you.
@@matthewpering8091 Any new brass locomotive videos to share?? I now have 3 locomotives. :-)
What motor do you install?
In this case, David, it is a Faulhaber 2230 which was salvage from an old HP printer. They can be found second-hand for sale on auction sites, but they are pricey, even used. I am sure a more affordable alternative is available.
Great job! What sort of motor did you use to replace the original?
Actually, this is a motor made by a German company named Faulhaber. It was taken out of an old Hewlett Packard plotter, IIRC. The gearing is original to the locomotive though, so the performance is really in the motor, which can't be beat, IMO. Of course, using a non-standard motor like this, I mounted it using epoxy putty from JB Weld, and a coupling kit from NWSL.
Severus Barrowstone I just wanted to say that as someone who is beginning to dip into brass locomotives, this video is incredibly helpful! I’m surprised at how much of a difference the springs make.
Quick question: I often see many models that appear to be slanted and/or sagging. Example: one part of the loco or tender is leaning towards the front, vice versa. What could be the reason for that to happen? Can it be fixed?
@@CaptainDynamite110 there could be a few reasons for this. Most likely is, that they had the body off the frame, and didn't get it back on properly. But it could also be something more serious, like a bent or broken frame caused by droppage. It really depends on the individual case, but I think these issues can usually be corrected.
@@CaptainDynamite110 Often times this can be caused by a bent frame, or tender truck that are also bent. Gentle bending can usually correct this problem.
U still around u have skills ever one in the hobby needs i want more know how
Yes... I am still around. Just working a lot lately, and have not had a chance to put up many vids. In the near future though, I do plan on doing a video on how I go about evaluating and refurbishing a brass engine. I just need to find the right candidate, and the time to do the work and record it. Stay tuned.
@@matthewpering8091 That would be much appreciated!
@@matthewpering8091 i have a texas pacific m1 hallmark model made in 1981 that i purchased through the big auction site. it is my first brass engine. i know nothing of how to work on them. would you consider me sending you the engine for your video series and of course pay you whatever you ask for repairs and decoder install? it would be a great service to me although of course you dont know me so thats irrelevant haha.
@@briarfire4924 It is worth considering. What kind of decoder do you have, and would this also be a sound and light install as well? Perhaps you could post a private video of what you have, and we can go from there. Thanks.
@@matthewpering8091 im not sure how to make private videos. i can try but all i have is the engine and tender. it is the only piece of ho equipment i have. im completely new to ho. i dont even have a piece of track yet. however i do know i want all my engines dcc and sound and lights. i would need you to direct me to the parts id need as again, i have nothing other than the engine and tender
Awesome ! Do you do your own painting as well?
Yes, I do my own painting. But there are many videos out there covering this subject. I will tell you I use automotive primer, not model primer, and make sure it is not filler primer, or you will lose detail.
U can't keep this train u have to give to me
Nice!
What scale is this brass?
This is HO scale... 1:87
Do you know any other manufacturers who make springs for brass engines, NWSL is going out of business. I just bought a Westside Models FEF-3 and it has the same problem of having springs that are too hard.
I am sorry, but I know of no other supplier who carries these springs. This is indeed sad news about NWSL. With some experimentation, I could make my own springs, but that also requires sourcing the right wire to make the springs, too. But this is unfortunate for you guys that don't already have a supply. Maybe someone else reading this will offer some guidance.
maybe, thanks anyways!
@@Trublemaker12 NWSL is open for business again. Springs available for 2.95 per package of 8
Try greenway products for scratch building supplies
Matthew, really nice work on upgrading this engine. What motor did you use?
EdithHead... It is a Faulhaber 2230.
Five years of service? Sounds like a lazy engineer who forgot his oilcan at home. Still, it is great oil.
Just for added clarification, I don't advocate ignoring proper lubrication that long just because the oil claims it will last that long. A model loco operates under very different conditions than a clock in a case, shielded for dust and dirt. With regular running, 3-6 months would be the longest I would push it.
Nice. But expensive locomotives.
Best I got so far with Faulhaber motor. Has not been completely stripped. Just re-motored and oiled and gearbox cleaned and re-lubed.
th-cam.com/video/T3cw_WZS8Bc/w-d-xo.html
Net std
Bernard fall books