I have a number of Westside and a few Sunset SP brass locomotives. They are beautiful models from the 1970-80's era. Most are still unpainted. The foam packaging has deteriorated with age and is no longer useful (or desirable). I installed DCC & sound in my On3 locomotives but never got the nerve to modify my HO brass. I'm no longer active in the hobby but still love to look at these beautiful steam locomotives. My heirs will get them.
Brass locos, especially older ones, have a reputation of being "finicky" as far as their running goes. They are made to be beautiful first and foremost. That short is probably because of the sprung drivers touching the body somewhere as it hit the dip between track sections. To get them to be reliable runners is a matter of having really good track and finding the spots where the gaps are tiny and either slightly widening it or putting some kind of insulating material there. I picked up a non running brass model and the problem was deteriorated insulation on the drawbar. It was a 5 minute fix. Anyway, thanks for the video and enjoy this new facet of model railroading.
I think my issue came down to the pilot catching on the rails over dips in the track. Carpet wasn’t exactly the best place for the test track. Thanks for the tips, I’ll definitely keep them in mind!
@@michaelstrains4014 also it could have been a truck on the tender was flipped too! the tender wheels should have the insulated side on the opposite rail from the locomotive.
I thought it was one of those videos TH-cam recomends that already have some million views till i look at the views!, Very good video, your channel looks very promising keep up the amazing work!
Just saw this via "Suggested". Nice video. I actually have 5 WM 2-10-2 SP, very similar to yours. About the tender. After removing the bottom plate, check if you can tap the dome end. A lot of times it is just pressed in, not soldered (though I have found a few that were soldered, but you can see that if you shine a light inside). As for the motor, I have replaced a few, and also used the original KTM (as long as they were strong and not noisy). For the can motor, I used Canon motors (DN-22 or CN-22, I do not remember), using a special bracket made by Precision Scale #126. It does not come with screws, but it fits the Canon motor perfectly. You have to drill holes for the bracket. I did not put a flywheel, as the decoder takes care of the slow start and stop. I cut part of the weight in the boiler and put (at the time) a small 1W round speaker (now I would use a sugar cube) in the front. The effect is tremendous. One last thing: soldering. You need to use Silver Solder, which is much stronger that regular solder. It does require a higher temp to flow reliably. I regularly use 750 degrees, 850 for silver solder. My Hakko FX888D-23BY can go up to 899 degrees. Cheers
If I ever stumble on one of these again I’ll definitely keep this in mind, but I ended up selling this for a PFM UP 0-6-0. Still a lot of what you’re saying here applies. Thanks a lot!
I think you need to invest in a tripod for the camera especially if you continue to do videos. Nice looking brass locomotive. I haven't purchased any brass yet. I would drill out the headlight and wire in an LED. I changed out all the magnets on all my open frame motors (Pittman) to rare earth magnets and it made a really BIG difference in current draw and the engines will now "creep". Cheers from eastern TN
I am looking into the tripod, long overdue for one lol. I have another brass engine I’ll be doing a video on when I have the time, bought it after selling this one off. Kinda regret it but I didn’t need this on top of my BLI MT-73. Maybe one day I’ll buy another one.
I’m building a LA&SL UP 7850-7869 MT in O Scale. After watching your video, it amazes me the HO version is much better detailed. Look forward to the next update.
Yep, the factory motors have app 8500 rpm. I would suggest a coreless motor with flywheel as f.e. Faulhaber 1724018SR with 8700 rmp at 12 Volts. And this engine would get a smooth and silent runner.
![ไข้ขึ้นเลย! เมื่อแฝดโดนจัดเต็มวัคซีนครบ2เดือน🤒 [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.54 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z2VHItnyyvY/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a number of Westside and a few Sunset SP brass locomotives. They are beautiful models from the 1970-80's era. Most are still unpainted. The foam packaging has deteriorated with age and is no longer useful (or desirable). I installed DCC & sound in my On3 locomotives but never got the nerve to modify my HO brass. I'm no longer active in the hobby but still love to look at these beautiful steam locomotives. My heirs will get them.
Brass locos, especially older ones, have a reputation of being "finicky" as far as their running goes. They are made to be beautiful first and foremost. That short is probably because of the sprung drivers touching the body somewhere as it hit the dip between track sections. To get them to be reliable runners is a matter of having really good track and finding the spots where the gaps are tiny and either slightly widening it or putting some kind of insulating material there. I picked up a non running brass model and the problem was deteriorated insulation on the drawbar. It was a 5 minute fix. Anyway, thanks for the video and enjoy this new facet of model railroading.
I think my issue came down to the pilot catching on the rails over dips in the track. Carpet wasn’t exactly the best place for the test track. Thanks for the tips, I’ll definitely keep them in mind!
@@michaelstrains4014 also it could have been a truck on the tender was flipped too! the tender wheels should have the insulated side on the opposite rail from the locomotive.
I thought it was one of those videos TH-cam recomends that already have some million views till i look at the views!, Very good video, your channel looks very promising keep up the amazing work!
Your kind words are appreciated!
Just saw this via "Suggested". Nice video. I actually have 5 WM 2-10-2 SP, very similar to yours. About the tender. After removing the bottom plate, check if you can tap the dome end. A lot of times it is just pressed in, not soldered (though I have found a few that were soldered, but you can see that if you shine a light inside). As for the motor, I have replaced a few, and also used the original KTM (as long as they were strong and not noisy). For the can motor, I used Canon motors (DN-22 or CN-22, I do not remember), using a special bracket made by Precision Scale #126. It does not come with screws, but it fits the Canon motor perfectly. You have to drill holes for the bracket. I did not put a flywheel, as the decoder takes care of the slow start and stop. I cut part of the weight in the boiler and put (at the time) a small 1W round speaker (now I would use a sugar cube) in the front. The effect is tremendous. One last thing: soldering. You need to use Silver Solder, which is much stronger that regular solder. It does require a higher temp to flow reliably. I regularly use 750 degrees, 850 for silver solder. My Hakko FX888D-23BY can go up to 899 degrees. Cheers
If I ever stumble on one of these again I’ll definitely keep this in mind, but I ended up selling this for a PFM UP 0-6-0. Still a lot of what you’re saying here applies. Thanks a lot!
I think you need to invest in a tripod for the camera especially if you continue to do videos. Nice looking brass locomotive. I haven't purchased any brass yet. I would drill out the headlight and wire in an LED. I changed out all the magnets on all my open frame motors (Pittman) to rare earth magnets and it made a really BIG difference in current draw and the engines will now "creep". Cheers from eastern TN
I am looking into the tripod, long overdue for one lol. I have another brass engine I’ll be doing a video on when I have the time, bought it after selling this one off. Kinda regret it but I didn’t need this on top of my BLI MT-73. Maybe one day I’ll buy another one.
I’m building a LA&SL UP 7850-7869 MT in O Scale. After watching your video, it amazes me the HO version is much better detailed. Look forward to the next update.
The next update won’t actually be on this engine…
Very nice model, westside has always made great models.
I almost bought an fef3 by them in the greyhound scheme.
Nice
I work on a few of these locomotives that gear looks to be after market. Most of the ones I’ve had don’t have a idler gear box.
That’s the original KTM gearbox. These were outstanding models in the 70s
Dang now I regret selling it, might have to snag another one when I have the money.
@@michaelstrains4014 did you sell it because of the gearbox?
@@adaribros No, sold it to fund a different project, had to choose between it and a PFM UP 0-6-0 at the time and already had a BLI MT-73.
Good Job.
Nice work, thats baking Soda not powder right?
No it was baking powder. Mixture is two parts baking powder to one part lemon juice.
@@michaelstrains4014 acetone and lacquer thinner are good fro cleaning brass as well. solvents don't affect the metal
Not Too Shabby.👍
I don't recommend leaving the original motors in if they work well for you just because The engines were geared for the factory motor's rpm
Yep, the factory motors have app 8500 rpm. I would suggest a coreless motor with flywheel as f.e. Faulhaber 1724018SR with 8700 rmp at 12 Volts. And this engine would get a smooth and silent runner.
If I still had it I would be replacing the motor and gearbox, sold it off for other projects.
Plan to paint it?
I did and then sold it for a different model, more on that soon…
its not atrain
*visible confusion*