You’ve helped tremendously throughout my rebuild process not only by providing this video, but also with your prompt and knowledgeable replies to my questions. After all, I replaced the small gasket at the bottom of fork slider piston, as well as the grinded slider gear and the above grinded gear. Voila! My 98 Accord coupe drives like a dream both forward AND backward. Thank you Tom! Don’t stop doing what you do.
Morning Man, I have done it quite a few times the 4-speed B7XA automatic Odyssey 3.5 L, also the 5-speed BYBA automatic... very similar to this one...even after 2002 Honda never get it right with the 5-speed BYBA @ 1:20:40 fork and the (selector installed it wrong upside down) the first time Good video! always something new to learn ....(scotch brite) technique to polish the valves @ 21:10 I never see you using a torque wrench in any of your videos I watched, I guess you can torque properly by hand using just your good judgement and experience. That's amazing! Some builders can monitor their confidence when not using a torque wrench. Keep up the good work Man!!!
I get comments all the time about not using a torque wrench. There comes a time where you have done it so many times that you get a feel for it. A lot of this job relies on how things feel when you are putting something together you can just tell when something is not right. Those 2 cpc valves are the most important thing in those Hondas, that is where most of your shifting problems are going to be. If you get those nice and free and you still have shifting problems then it is probably the linear solenoids. Very rarely the shift solenoids themselves. Thanks, have a great one.
I am currently stuck where you were at 48:16. I was replacing bearings, one I could get from Honda (91122-p7v-J02) (24 bearings) but the other one (91121-p7v-J02)(20 bearings) will not be available for Two months. I called WIT and they had none and said they get theirs from Honda, so I am in same boat with them. I believe the part number D20292CK is another part number for this. Any other place you can recommend to try to get them? Dead in the water for two months on a bearing is so unbelievable... Thanks again
Got the B7XA done and in the car. Thank you so much. I must ask for help again as there is an issue. Everything works fine except when shifting from D4 to Reverse (And only at that time). It sounds like a big click or clunk (It is not the CV axle as I hoped). It is coming from inside the transmission. When moving the gear shift from drive to reverse it sounds like a loud clicking like you would get from actuators on door locks all going at the same time. This is the best way I can describe it. It doesn't really sound like a gear mesh or anything. I reused the old the solenoids, could that have anything to do with it? The previous owner put all new Amazon solenoids on it, when I rebuilt it, I put back on the OEM solenoids (he kept them). Also, this does not happen when shifting from Park to reverse or Neutral to reverse. Only when you have gone to the D4 (or D3,2,1) and then moved it back to reverse. I can keep it from happening by moving the gearshift quickly and directly to park, but I don't want to have to do that. Can't figure out where I went wrong. Your help here would be so appreciated! Thanks!
Addition: I had used the B and C solenoids that were amazon. I just took those off and put the old ones back on. I tested them both. The amazon were so weak you could barely feel a click, the OEM gave off a good solid click. Anyway after I did that I barely hear a click when I shift from D4 to reverse. Probably wouldn't notice it if you werent looking for it. However, when braking and coming to a stop at low speed the downshift to 1st feels kinda funny. Also 2nd to 3d and 3 to 4th have what I would call a "Flat" hesitation for just a moment. Sorry I cant describe better. Should I replace all of the OEM solenoids, and also what would cause those shifting issues (I.E. linear solenoid, A, B, C). Thanks again.
The dual linear on top is what controls shift feel and pressure on these. Have not had good success with aftermarket ones. What you are hearing is the slider meshing with the gear. Think of these as an automatically shifted standard.
Im rebuilding a b7xa now and your videos have been great. The clutch spring compressor I bought is kinda garbage and I swear I was going to have it explode and smash my teeth in taking the balance pistons out to change the orings. Is it ok to leave those in and just change the steels and friction plates? Thanks.
It can be dangerous. I would recommend you replace them. That rubber gets hard and quits sealing properly. Might wanna wear a face shield and safety goggles. Keep your hands outta there until absolutely necessary.
Got a B7XA dissasembled ready for cleaning. When this trans went bad it would not move at all. All i have noticed is the one of the top drums had scorched fluid all arounf the top perimeter of it. The scorching did come off with a wire wheel. Is this drum still usable? Also I havent located and sticking valves and the bearings were all good. Any idea what killed it? It had about 230k miles on it. Thanks for all you do!
The drum is still probably usable. Usually what happens is the T/C comes apart and plugs the filter. The amount of damage after that is determined by how much they tried to drive it after that. Usually the valves are free in Honda's. With the exception of the CPC valves. Even if they seem free, take them out of the bore and clean the piss out of them. Lube them up well. I like to use Aerokroil on them. When the converter comes apart it will plug up the cooler in the radiator also.You CANNOT flush it out. It will just circulate around the fins and still be plugged. Best solution is to put a new radiator AND an auxilliary cooler. Bare minimum bypass the radiator and put a cooler on it. Sonnax makes several valves for it. I don't find them totally necessary, but I do like to put the end plug kit in. One kit will not do them all. Usually takes at least 2 on this unit. Each kit will have 1 large, 1 medium and 3 small plugs. They do sell them separately as well.
Hello again sir! In your disassembly video, I shared a problem with you and you mentioned that "the slider and/or hub for reverse is upside down". Specifically, are you referring to the reverse idler that falls when you take the top cover off? If not, please point me in the right direction. Your video has been very helpful in my journey so far and I really appreciate it.
That can be upside down as well. However I am tallking about the slider that is bolted to the servo, that you can now see with the case off. It and the hub it slides on. The hub should have the recess up. And the slider should have the lip up.
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionI’ve made a discovery. The reverse gear slider is not upside down, however, the top of the inner teeth are eaten and rounded. The bottom of the gear that goes directly above the slider is also eaten and rounded. My guess is that the grinding and lack of engagement is directly caused by this. Could it be that I simply replace the slider and the gear that goes directly above to solve the problem?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yes the hub is on correctly and the recess faces up, such that the cage bearing sits on top snug. Thankfully, I also have my original transmission to compare to alongside your video!
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionI’ve made another discovery! When I click the shift fork in place, it settles in lower than yours and does not align with the 10mm hole, unless I slide it up about an 8th of an inch. Come to find out, the bracket with the two ball bearings held down by two 10mm is different than yours and different than the one on my old transmission. I swapped the two brackets and sure enough, it clicked in place and aligned with the 10mm hole. Could the difference in that bracket have caused the gears to misalign when reverse was engaged?
Is it possible with a good torque converter, ported pump, trans cooler, Carbon clutch kit and some gear shot peening the B7XA can handle a 12 PSI supercharged build? I have had one with a failed pump & broken 3rd gear before and I'm planning a build on a second B7XA. Thanks in advance!
I work at DAF, we assemble truck engines, so im lucky to have some mechanical experience, i want to start rebuilding broken transmissions first to practice and learn, my B7XA just gave up at 160k miles, for now i will ask a shop to repair it, because i don't have my tools and garage yet to do it myself. Do you recommend upgrading any parts or install the replacement parts and thats all? Thanks in advance, ur awesome!
Thanks. I would put 2 of the Sonnax end plug kits in. Get Transtec rebuild kit with Raybestos clutches. Filtran filter. Good T/C from someplace like Precision of New Hampton. Add an auxilliary cooler in parallel not series and replace the radiator. There are usually some motor and transmission mounts that are broken on these so plan on replacing them. DO NOT try to cheap out on the mounts, you will regret it. Some of the mounts can get quite expensive. You can get by with a synthetic fluid on these but for the best shifts use Honda fluid.
Hey Curudgeon, one more question.. I notice you are measuring everything to verify their are the right component. Do you have a list of all the parts as you assemble them and if so, where would I find one?
I did that for you. I don't measure them on every one. I know how much of the bolt should be sticking up. The ATSG Manual may have it, I don't know I don't have one. Go to their website and the bookstore. Link is in the description.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks a lot bro.. I have a b7xa unit all torn down and am in the process of kind of studying everything so I have a good understanding of what I'm doing.
@@olbricky6824 For some reason it is not showing your last comment so I will respond on this one. Probably 30 years ago I read an article that stated the smooth rolled side should face the gear it is riding on and the side that has the groove should face the other way. I don't remember where I read it, can't find it. It is not in any manual. A few years back I was at a seminar, think it was an ATRA one, and that question came up. They stated it does not matter.
atawesome..thanks again for your help.. I noticed as I was taking apart the rest of the mainshaft, the other two thrust needle bearings were facing opposite directions so I thought it may not matter for reassembly. There seems to be what could be interpreted as a lube groove, on the grooved size that goes around the inner circumfrence of the bearing
Hi I don't know if you still rebuild, I have a question though, I noticed you removed the little filter on the valve body, why? Am about to rebuild a unit b7xa and i want to know the advantage of taking them off like u did or I should just leave it
You can do either. I choose not to put them in. They just get clogged, especially if it doesn't get flushed properly. They are a fairly large mesh so they only stop large particles.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission so I can do without them then, the 2 of them. Thanks so much. I quite agree with the fact that the mesh are large. I'll remove them
Out of curiosity, how hard would removing just the differential be? I want to put an LSD conversion kit in and I’m having a hard time finding info on just the differential.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission oh yeah I know what that is...I usually use a large socket to drive them in....I was talking about that "snappy pen thing" you were going around inside of the bearing with. That thing caught my eye!
I get comments all the time about this. You do not HAVE to soak them. Back when I first started building none of the builders did it. I read that also and soaked them. Then I tried it without doing it and compared them and guess what, you could not tell the difference. I know alot of builders and none of them pre soak their clutches. I have not done it except in rare instances and I have been doing this for 36 years now. Only time I soak them is for a racing build or a carryout that they tell me it is going to sit for a long time before they install it.
You’ve helped tremendously throughout my rebuild process not only by providing this video, but also with your prompt and knowledgeable replies to my questions.
After all, I replaced the small gasket at the bottom of fork slider piston, as well as the grinded slider gear and the above grinded gear. Voila! My 98 Accord coupe drives like a dream both forward AND backward. Thank you Tom! Don’t stop doing what you do.
Glad I could help. Thanks for the donation.
Morning Man,
I have done it quite a few times the 4-speed B7XA automatic Odyssey 3.5 L, also the 5-speed BYBA automatic...
very similar to this one...even after 2002 Honda never get it right with the 5-speed BYBA
@ 1:20:40 fork and the (selector installed it wrong upside down) the first time
Good video! always something new to learn ....(scotch brite) technique to polish the valves @ 21:10
I never see you using a torque wrench in any of your videos I watched, I guess you can torque properly by hand using just your good judgement and experience.
That's amazing!
Some builders can monitor their confidence when not using a torque wrench.
Keep up the good work Man!!!
I get comments all the time about not using a torque wrench. There comes a time where you have done it so many times that you get a feel for it. A lot of this job relies on how things feel when you are putting something together you can just tell when something is not right. Those 2 cpc valves are the most important thing in those Hondas, that is where most of your shifting problems are going to be. If you get those nice and free and you still have shifting problems then it is probably the linear solenoids. Very rarely the shift solenoids themselves. Thanks, have a great one.
I am rebuilding 1 along side this video. Thank you
Thanks for watching.
How did it work out?
Howd it go you finished?
Hey mann i just sat here and watched the complete video
Thanks for watching.
I am currently stuck where you were at 48:16. I was replacing bearings, one I could get from Honda (91122-p7v-J02) (24 bearings) but the other one (91121-p7v-J02)(20 bearings) will not be available for Two months. I called WIT and they had none and said they get theirs from Honda, so I am in same boat with them. I believe the part number D20292CK is another part number for this. Any other place you can recommend to try to get them? Dead in the water for two months on a bearing is so unbelievable... Thanks again
Try Transtar. Other than that I don't know. You can try Ebay. There is a guy on there selling transmission parts. Don't know anything about him.
Got the B7XA done and in the car. Thank you so much. I must ask for help again as there is an issue. Everything works fine except when shifting from D4 to Reverse (And only at that time). It sounds like a big click or clunk (It is not the CV axle as I hoped). It is coming from inside the transmission. When moving the gear shift from drive to reverse it sounds like a loud clicking like you would get from actuators on door locks all going at the same time. This is the best way I can describe it. It doesn't really sound like a gear mesh or anything. I reused the old the solenoids, could that have anything to do with it? The previous owner put all new Amazon solenoids on it, when I rebuilt it, I put back on the OEM solenoids (he kept them). Also, this does not happen when shifting from Park to reverse or Neutral to reverse. Only when you have gone to the D4 (or D3,2,1) and then moved it back to reverse. I can keep it from happening by moving the gearshift quickly and directly to park, but I don't want to have to do that. Can't figure out where I went wrong. Your help here would be so appreciated! Thanks!
Addition: I had used the B and C solenoids that were amazon. I just took those off and put the old ones back on. I tested them both. The amazon were so weak you could barely feel a click, the OEM gave off a good solid click. Anyway after I did that I barely hear a click when I shift from D4 to reverse. Probably wouldn't notice it if you werent looking for it. However, when braking and coming to a stop at low speed the downshift to 1st feels kinda funny. Also 2nd to 3d and 3 to 4th have what I would call a "Flat" hesitation for just a moment. Sorry I cant describe better. Should I replace all of the OEM solenoids, and also what would cause those shifting issues (I.E. linear solenoid, A, B, C). Thanks again.
The dual linear on top is what controls shift feel and pressure on these. Have not had good success with aftermarket ones. What you are hearing is the slider meshing with the gear. Think of these as an automatically shifted standard.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for taking the time. I am going to try to replace the linear solenoids and live with the clicking slider.
Im rebuilding a b7xa now and your videos have been great. The clutch spring compressor I bought is kinda garbage and I swear I was going to have it explode and smash my teeth in taking the balance pistons out to change the orings. Is it ok to leave those in and just change the steels and friction plates? Thanks.
It can be dangerous. I would recommend you replace them. That rubber gets hard and quits sealing properly. Might wanna wear a face shield and safety goggles. Keep your hands outta there until absolutely necessary.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you so much. Will do
@@CurmudgeonTransmission got em all done. Figured out a better way of setting the tool up
Not to pester you too much, but who do you use for differential carrier bearings? The Honda parts guy I called didn’t have a clue.
WIT or Transtar carry them.
Got a B7XA dissasembled ready for cleaning. When this trans went bad it would not move at all. All i have noticed is the one of the top drums had scorched fluid all arounf the top perimeter of it. The scorching did come off with a wire wheel. Is this drum still usable? Also I havent located and sticking valves and the bearings were all good. Any idea what killed it? It had about 230k miles on it. Thanks for all you do!
The drum is still probably usable. Usually what happens is the T/C comes apart and plugs the filter. The amount of damage after that is determined by how much they tried to drive it after that. Usually the valves are free in Honda's. With the exception of the CPC valves. Even if they seem free, take them out of the bore and clean the piss out of them. Lube them up well. I like to use Aerokroil on them. When the converter comes apart it will plug up the cooler in the radiator also.You CANNOT flush it out. It will just circulate around the fins and still be plugged. Best solution is to put a new radiator AND an auxilliary cooler. Bare minimum bypass the radiator and put a cooler on it. Sonnax makes several valves for it. I don't find them totally necessary, but I do like to put the end plug kit in. One kit will not do them all. Usually takes at least 2 on this unit. Each kit will have 1 large, 1 medium and 3 small plugs. They do sell them separately as well.
Thanks so much for taking the time to answer.. i will follow your directions exactly!
Hello again sir! In your disassembly video, I shared a problem with you and you mentioned that "the slider and/or hub for reverse is upside down". Specifically, are you referring to the reverse idler that falls when you take the top cover off? If not, please point me in the right direction. Your video has been very helpful in my journey so far and I really appreciate it.
That can be upside down as well. However I am tallking about the slider that is bolted to the servo, that you can now see with the case off. It and the hub it slides on. The hub should have the recess up. And the slider should have the lip up.
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionI’ve made a discovery. The reverse gear slider is not upside down, however, the top of the inner teeth are eaten and rounded. The bottom of the gear that goes directly above the slider is also eaten and rounded. My guess is that the grinding and lack of engagement is directly caused by this.
Could it be that I simply replace the slider and the gear that goes directly above to solve the problem?
Could be. Is the hub on correctly also? The piece the slider slides on. The recess should face up.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yes the hub is on correctly and the recess faces up, such that the cage bearing sits on top snug.
Thankfully, I also have my original transmission to compare to alongside your video!
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionI’ve made another discovery! When I click the shift fork in place, it settles in lower than yours and does not align with the 10mm hole, unless I slide it up about an 8th of an inch.
Come to find out, the bracket with the two ball bearings held down by two 10mm is different than yours and different than the one on my old transmission. I swapped the two brackets and sure enough, it clicked in place and aligned with the 10mm hole.
Could the difference in that bracket have caused the gears to misalign when reverse was engaged?
Is it possible with a good torque converter, ported pump, trans cooler, Carbon clutch kit and some gear shot peening the B7XA can handle a 12 PSI supercharged build? I have had one with a failed pump & broken 3rd gear before and I'm planning a build on a second B7XA.
Thanks in advance!
It is impossible to say. Anytime you modify something and start boosting power it will shorten its life. How much depends on too many factors to say.
What grease did you use on the assembly?
Transgel gold. No longer available. Dr. Tranny red, blue and green is all that is available now.
I work at DAF, we assemble truck engines, so im lucky to have some mechanical experience, i want to start rebuilding broken transmissions first to practice and learn, my B7XA just gave up at 160k miles, for now i will ask a shop to repair it, because i don't have my tools and garage yet to do it myself. Do you recommend upgrading any parts or install the replacement parts and thats all? Thanks in advance, ur awesome!
Thanks. I would put 2 of the Sonnax end plug kits in. Get Transtec rebuild kit with Raybestos clutches. Filtran filter. Good T/C from someplace like Precision of New Hampton. Add an auxilliary cooler in parallel not series and replace the radiator. There are usually some motor and transmission mounts that are broken on these so plan on replacing them. DO NOT try to cheap out on the mounts, you will regret it. Some of the mounts can get quite expensive. You can get by with a synthetic fluid on these but for the best shifts use Honda fluid.
Hey Curudgeon, one more question.. I notice you are measuring everything to verify their are the right component. Do you have a list of all the parts as you assemble them and if so, where would I find one?
I did that for you. I don't measure them on every one. I know how much of the bolt should be sticking up. The ATSG Manual may have it, I don't know I don't have one. Go to their website and the bookstore. Link is in the description.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks a lot bro.. I have a b7xa unit all torn down and am in the process of kind of studying everything so I have a good understanding of what I'm doing.
@@olbricky6824 For some reason it is not showing your last comment so I will respond on this one. Probably 30 years ago I read an article that stated the smooth rolled side should face the gear it is riding on and the side that has the groove should face the other way. I don't remember where I read it, can't find it. It is not in any manual. A few years back I was at a seminar, think it was an ATRA one, and that question came up. They stated it does not matter.
atawesome..thanks again for your help.. I noticed as I was taking apart the rest of the mainshaft, the other two thrust needle bearings were facing opposite directions so I thought it may not matter for reassembly. There seems to be what could be interpreted as a lube groove, on the grooved size that goes around the inner circumfrence of the bearing
Hi I don't know if you still rebuild, I have a question though, I noticed you removed the little filter on the valve body, why? Am about to rebuild a unit b7xa and i want to know the advantage of taking them off like u did or I should just leave it
You can do either. I choose not to put them in. They just get clogged, especially if it doesn't get flushed properly. They are a fairly large mesh so they only stop large particles.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission so I can do without them then, the 2 of them. Thanks so much. I quite agree with the fact that the mesh are large. I'll remove them
Out of curiosity, how hard would removing just the differential be? I want to put an LSD conversion kit in and I’m having a hard time finding info on just the differential.
You will be taking it all the way apart. Might as well rebuild it while you are there. It is that involved.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I thought it would be.
but was really hoping it wouldn't. I appreciate the info
Awesome video! What do you think is the main issue with these B7XA units? I keep hearing the design from the factory was not sufficient
Torque converter failure. Plugs up the radiator.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission What is the tool you are using on the mainshaft bearing @2:50
It's a bushing driver. Don't have to have it, you can use just about anything to push it back.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission oh yeah I know what that is...I usually use a large socket to drive them in....I was talking about that "snappy pen thing" you were going around inside of the bearing with. That thing caught my eye!
@@CurmudgeonTransmission disregard! I figured it out, it's a spring loaded center punch
How about friction plates? You installed dry ones? as i know, these friction plates must be soaked in AT fluid before installation?
I get comments all the time about this. You do not HAVE to soak them. Back when I first started building none of the builders did it. I read that also and soaked them. Then I tried it without doing it and compared them and guess what, you could not tell the difference. I know alot of builders and none of them pre soak their clutches. I have not done it except in rare instances and I have been doing this for 36 years now. Only time I soak them is for a racing build or a carryout that they tell me it is going to sit for a long time before they install it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank's for the answer sir!
No problem, happy rebuilding.