I had four garages fail to start my Citroen C4 Picasso (with similar 1.6 turbo diesel to this Peugeot) ) and all fuses checked out okay. They all stated that it must be the ECU but there are two diodes which look like small fuses which I checked out. One was open circuit in both directions (ie faulty) and the other one worked as a one way circuit as it should. New diode cost £4 and took 30 seconds to replace (after i bought one by post) and the engine started straight away. Garage and towing charges nearly £200. Check the diodes!
Had a very similar fault ...Contacted a Auto Electrician who did not have a clue !!...Manage to get hold of a Peugeot Technician who fixed the Fault in 30 mins ....Replacing the Module at the Positive Battery post ....Good Video 👍
Its called a BGPA unit, supplies and protection unit for heavy consumers. The block you pointed to is the main relay inside which fails and doesn't power the PSF1 etc, which is the engine fusebox. These are very common on the new and old Peugeot's... Not a bsi issue, its the relay sticking in that block and now is freed off. NOT THE BSI. 👍🏼
If you ever read data sheets of relays from manufacturers (OMRON etc), usually a nominal current is specified. That's to keep the contacts "clean", to remove oxidation through arcing. By jumping the wire across, it could have actually "cleaned" off the contacts inside the relay.
@@khalidacosta7133 wonder why the RAC/AA didn't pick up this fault or have knowledge of it ? They should have done 1. On their known faults 2. From experience
@@hereIam1965 Because, generally, the RAC and AA are monkeys!!! And Halfrauds aren't even that! Especially with electrics and electronic systems, which is a bit of a problem, given that cars have been packed with those systems for over 30 years!! They always go straight to batteries, alternators and starter motors, after that they are lost!! Example, although this was with a local garage, which I was compelled to use due to circumstances at the time. My Mazda 6 diesel was frequently going into limp mode, so significant power reduction. Did a scan and showed a boost control circuit fault. Told the garage that and left it with them. They called back some hours later and "diagnosed" a faulty turbo, £1500 please! So, given that the turbo hadn't presented any signs of failure I decided to do some research on the fault. This came up with an apparently common fault on this model, the vane position sensor. That part isn't available as a part from Mazda, it only comes with a new turbo. Screw that, Went on eBay and found a turbo specialist that had the part, £25! Bought one, took it to the garage and asked them to install it. They said, no that won't be it, blah, blah. I insisted, so they did, job done, fault sorted! They said It was just luck, yeah, luck that saved me £1500!!! Garage's make a living out of pulling scams like that on people that they know won't know any different, utter bar stewards!
Always the risk in these situations is when many hands have played before you, you don’t know how many extra faults have been added to the mix. 🥇for the fix.
For all the people commenting about a nut missing on the orange fuse, there is nothing connected to the other side of it, so it’s probably an unused accessory point, like maybe a tow hitch. Look at the connection below it, there is a wire leaving the terminal. I don’t think it’s part of the issue.
Changed a load of those battery modules. Switch engine off and leave it long enough and it'll do the same again. Solid state relay in there as well as the monitoring stuff. Also, the are a couple of fuses on the left, the tiny ones. Always check those. One of them blows with no explanation and both of them rot. Like you say, BSIs are not good on them but a lot of the issues are caused by clack clack start attempts. Changed a few ECUs as well. Luckily the BSIs and ECUs are clone able without too much issue.
I was seriously considering buying one of these but after a bit of research I decided no and bought a RAV4, one of my few more clever decisions 😊ps well done jimmy getting it started and diagnosing the issue
Had this on my Grand Picasso MK2 , flat batteries and adblue fault. Took it to an independent who diagnosed adblue tank pressure. Took it to my local main dealer and watched their diagnostic computer throw up loads of faults. Needed a replacement BSI and apparently the voltage faults had corrupted one of the ECU so needed a download from Citroen- which I was warned could take hours. Total cost was about £500 for the BSI and download, £460 for the adblue tank. Can’t help but feel the 2 were connected.😊
That unit under the bonnet is a psf1 power supply unit, the bsi is behind the glovebox and has to be programmed due to immobiliser being part of it. The car probably should have been told it had a new battery and it may have powered up the unit you jumped.
Merlin the magician! Conjure up a battery charger for them, please! Stiil didn't quite understand where or what the BSi module is, but it's easily replaced it seems. Great work!
This was very interesting , that type of electronic wizardry is not on the the cars I own . There are two comments that explain it very well . Always good to learn something new .
Problem with some not all younger mechanical fitters is the fact they are just that... Fitters not actual mechanics. Massive difference Being able to be called a mechanic normally comes with years of experience. Not just changing parts that the diagnosis machine tells you that might be the problem. Good video ❤
I spent 5 years learning the trade in 69 to 74. No computers then. LOOK,listen,feel, test, talk, drive. Timing light strobe was the height of technology back then.
I had this problem on a peugeot 307 . It's was the BPGA (the thing you were bridging) It contains a couple of relays that go faulty and don't always connect. High current, so probably pitted. Won't let the vehicle start or cuts the power. This is a safety device so don't run it bridged. About £250 for new one from Peugeot This car had been in a few garages by the time it darkened my door.
usual problem Jimmy mechanics ASUMING instead of carrying out the basic checks first i.e. fuses /power feeds the number of times I've seen this happen . well done mate
I can't believe none of those "mechanics" didn't think to check the fuses!!!! As for starter motor boi, He should apply to McDonalds and start reciting, "Would you like fries with that?" 🤣The FIRST place I check are the fuses on the BSM because they are prone to getting grotty which can have an effect on the voltage. Back in 2014, my wife's 07 Citroen C4 started playing up. I found all the (blade) fuses on the BSM were corroded with moisture playing a part (she was forbidden from then on from parking under tree's at work as the tree bits found their way into the cover & had built up moisture). I cleaned the connections with a woman's cardboard nail file and the fuses with a small wire brush. Popped it all backtogether and away she went. I had a funny issue a couple of months back with ABS playing dead! I undid the multiplug for a while, then reconnected & interrogated again. This time I was able to connect & it turned out the rear right ABS sensor had been pushed out with rust. The retaining bolt prevented it going straight, so it curved over time & got eaten away by the spinning hub. This likely caused a dead short which created a problem so the CAN network disconnected the ABS module for protection. Replaced the sensor after clearing the rust and all was fine once more. This car is now 17 years old on the original turbo and coming up 102,000 miles and still goes like a bat out of hell when required. I LOVE Citroen 🥰 My own Berlingo is on 162,000 miles and original turbo. Just change the oil at 8k folks. And don't forget those teeny tiny banjo bolt filters for the turbo oil line 😉
Had the same issue halfords replaced battery van wouldnt start recomended new starter motor left when i declined i metered battery out myself 'new battery ' was showing 10 volts crafty sod had fitted a dud battery i complained they came out checked and replaced the battery he fitted apperently it want the first time it had happened.
Had a citroen c3 auto that wouldn't start after the battery was changed the ecu had locked out after researching i found out it had to be started for the ecu to unlock so i had to bridge the starter to get it running was fine after that
Use tinned copper wire of correct gauge to make an adequate current fuse, or a card of bare fuse wire from DIY store 3 x 30 amp in parallel for 90 amp fuse etc..
The cable that wax bridged in this video is directly connected to the starter motor. When cranking, it has to provide close to 300 amps. Your bodge with three fuses would never work.
@@elliottpeters2996 I was only using 90 amp as an example of calculation, choose what's required. A starter for an average vehicle will never draw 300 amp continuously. Typical motor rating is 1.4kw at 10v so 140 amp, but often lower than this, around 100-130 amp. The only time it would get to 300+ amp is in a stall condition, or when initially powered before the engine is spinning. A 30 amp fuse does not blow at 30 amp, as an example BS1362 states a cartridge fuse must be capable of carrying 1.6 x rated current for at least 30 minutes and blow at 1.9 x rated current. 30 amp wire will handle hundreds of amps for for a brief period . Its obvious all you've stated is just your imagination, and you have no practical experience and have never actually measured starter current with a current probe and a scope
I think so as when I plugged my launch scan tool in to my citroen it had in the bsi section a "reprogram of bsi", so i'm guessing it does need it to be coded. But I think that only this button needs to be pressed in "special functions" in the scan tool and that's it. I could be wrong though.
Interesting you don't think it's worth cleaning out the contacts for the BSI. Why would it suddenly work couldn't get voltage before? is it a relay issue got stuck, maybe and connecting the voltage released it. They have relay or relays?
When car doesn't start, there are few culprits: fuel pump in the tank, high-pressure fuel pump in the engine bay, Suction Control Valve, Fuel Pressure Regulator on the common rail, air in the fuel lines that needs to bleed out, starter, injectors and battery.
This is the biggest issue with French cars. They're cheap to buy and often different/specific/difficult to maintain, so most owners don't bother. That's why old French cars are so often broken. Add to that the odd design failure.
Can perhaps see why them guys before went for battery when uhad multimeter it was 11.9 volts well below a good battery but thats a lesson too look deeper
The leads r the wrong way round the small lead joined to the positive lead should be in the position where the lead with the yellow tape is and the lead with yellow tape should be in the position where the small positive lead is
Have you checked the last recorded mileage in the mot history for this car? Is it any wonder 😂 theses always suffer with near side pothole butter suspension problem knocking sensors out
Must of those faults in brake system, is because it had a bad battery. Just drive the car above 18Mph and brake a couple of times. After that turn off and start the car again.
Actually looks like it's just missing a feed coming off it, like the others have the lead. So prewired for something but not installed in that particular vehicle
@@bills6093yep. That’s what u get for commenting before the end. However, he did ask whether it’d have been safe to temporarily bridge the fuse so my comment is still partially valid.
Start with the basics. Is there 12v between the battery + and the engine block when trying to crank? Just because the battery is good does not mean the voltage is going anywhere. Is there 12v at the starter? Is the solenoid getting 12v when attempting to crank? Having 12v when not trying to crank does not count, a corroded wire can give 12v when not under load, and drop out when under load. Being a Peugeot I suspect the entire electrical system has died of bad design.
Old time mechanic from way back, now retired. This electronic shit is way too teck. for me. Give me a set of points and a carbie any day. Mind you, a fuse is still a fuse.
BSI typically never ever need replacement, just re-flashing and all good to go. Obviously you do not know how to do that and complaining the BSI fault. These BSI is known to have instant "errors" if battery goes flat. Physically all good, just re-flash needed
Here's the biggest problem with French cars as opposed to most other manufacturers. They're cheap to buy, and difficult to fix because of weird French design choices. That's why most buyers don't bother to fix them. Add to that the odd cheap part and design failure and you get this reputation of bad quality unreliable car. The real trick is to buy a used French car from a hobbyist owner who did all necessary and unnecessary maintenance. You can get a cheap daily car that way. 😎👌
@JayMaverick could really say the same about VAG group though in my experience with em, with the newer stuff that is. Of course the old stuff was lovely and nicely laid out but new gen vag stuff I find is the same or worse! Agreed on the French car front yes, but hard to find enthusiasts that are getting rid of older PSA cars
Really? And how many French cars have you owned then? I’ve owned three Peugeots and now on my 6th Renault. Only issue I had with any of them was a window regulator on my second Megane. I found them all to be very reliable, easy to maintain and cheap to run. I’d safely say I’ve more experience of French cars than most and would gladly have one over some Nissan built in Sunderland that is poorly put together and breaks down every five minutes (ask me how I know🙄).
@davidmehlhorn726 sadly in this country seems people would rather blindly bash French cars while riding blindy on the german=reliability thing from 25 years ago. Same here number of French cars and no issues.
I'm a house mechanic.. 🏠 I'm plsd I'm out . Once upon a time there was 2 sockets in a kitchen , one for a kettle and the other for a toaster now it has to be hooked to its own grid .
I had four garages fail to start my Citroen C4 Picasso (with similar 1.6 turbo diesel to this Peugeot) ) and all fuses checked out okay. They all stated that it must be the ECU but there are two diodes which look like small fuses which I checked out. One was open circuit in both directions (ie faulty) and the other one worked as a one way circuit as it should. New diode cost £4 and took 30 seconds to replace (after i bought one by post) and the engine started straight away. Garage and towing charges nearly £200. Check the diodes!
Great!! Where were these diodes?
Had a very similar fault ...Contacted a Auto Electrician who did not have a clue !!...Manage to get hold of a Peugeot Technician who fixed the Fault in 30 mins ....Replacing the Module at the Positive Battery post ....Good Video 👍
Its called a BGPA unit, supplies and protection unit for heavy consumers. The block you pointed to is the main relay inside which fails and doesn't power the PSF1 etc, which is the engine fusebox. These are very common on the new and old Peugeot's... Not a bsi issue, its the relay sticking in that block and now is freed off.
NOT THE BSI. 👍🏼
If you ever read data sheets of relays from manufacturers (OMRON etc), usually a nominal current is specified. That's to keep the contacts "clean", to remove oxidation through arcing. By jumping the wire across, it could have actually "cleaned" off the contacts inside the relay.
@@khalidacosta7133 wonder why the RAC/AA didn't pick up this fault or have knowledge of it ? They should have done 1. On their known faults 2. From experience
@@hereIam1965 I've been on Peugeot for 23 years and not all techs know of this issue/fix either...
@@hereIam1965
Because, generally, the RAC and AA are monkeys!!! And Halfrauds aren't even that! Especially with electrics and electronic systems, which is a bit of a problem, given that cars have been packed with those systems for over 30 years!! They always go straight to batteries, alternators and starter motors, after that they are lost!! Example, although this was with a local garage, which I was compelled to use due to circumstances at the time. My Mazda 6 diesel was frequently going into limp mode, so significant power reduction. Did a scan and showed a boost control circuit fault. Told the garage that and left it with them. They called back some hours later and "diagnosed" a faulty turbo, £1500 please! So, given that the turbo hadn't presented any signs of failure I decided to do some research on the fault. This came up with an apparently common fault on this model, the vane position sensor. That part isn't available as a part from Mazda, it only comes with a new turbo. Screw that, Went on eBay and found a turbo specialist that had the part, £25! Bought one, took it to the garage and asked them to install it. They said, no that won't be it, blah, blah. I insisted, so they did, job done, fault sorted! They said It was just luck, yeah, luck that saved me £1500!!! Garage's make a living out of pulling scams like that on people that they know won't know any different, utter bar stewards!
Don't get this problem with my 1963 Hillman husky
Excellent deduction there! Well done on getting it running. Must be a satisfying job!
Always the risk in these situations is when many hands have played before you, you don’t know how many extra faults have been added to the mix. 🥇for the fix.
For all the people commenting about a nut missing on the orange fuse, there is nothing connected to the other side of it, so it’s probably an unused accessory point, like maybe a tow hitch. Look at the connection below it, there is a wire leaving the terminal. I don’t think it’s part of the issue.
Changed a load of those battery modules. Switch engine off and leave it long enough and it'll do the same again. Solid state relay in there as well as the monitoring stuff. Also, the are a couple of fuses on the left, the tiny ones. Always check those. One of them blows with no explanation and both of them rot. Like you say, BSIs are not good on them but a lot of the issues are caused by clack clack start attempts. Changed a few ECUs as well. Luckily the BSIs and ECUs are clone able without too much issue.
Battery protection electronic relay , someone's been handy with the jump leads ,
No surge protection device fitted in the jump leads ?
Good diagnosis - someone has jumped it cos of that flat battery and ended up compounding the issue by jumping to the wrong postive terminal
I was seriously considering buying one of these but after a bit of research I decided no and bought a RAV4, one of my few more clever decisions 😊ps well done jimmy getting it started and diagnosing the issue
Can’t go wrong with a Rav 4
Had this on my Grand Picasso MK2 , flat batteries and adblue fault. Took it to an independent who diagnosed adblue tank pressure. Took it to my local main dealer and watched their diagnostic computer throw up loads of faults. Needed a replacement BSI and apparently the voltage faults had corrupted one of the ECU so needed a download from Citroen- which I was warned could take hours. Total cost was about £500 for the BSI and download, £460 for the adblue tank. Can’t help but feel the 2 were connected.😊
That unit under the bonnet is a psf1 power supply unit, the bsi is behind the glovebox and has to be programmed due to immobiliser being part of it. The car probably should have been told it had a new battery and it may have powered up the unit you jumped.
You just rebooted BSI, nice one Jimmy.
Merlin the magician! Conjure up a battery charger for them, please! Stiil didn't quite understand where or what the BSi module is, but it's easily replaced it seems. Great work!
Great job Jimmy! Thanks for share it.
This was very interesting , that type of electronic wizardry is not on the the cars I own . There are two comments that explain it very well . Always good to learn something new .
Problem with some not all younger mechanical fitters is the fact they are just that... Fitters not actual mechanics.
Massive difference
Being able to be called a mechanic normally comes with years of experience.
Not just changing parts that the diagnosis machine tells you that might be the problem.
Good video ❤
I spent 5 years learning the trade in 69 to 74. No computers then.
LOOK,listen,feel, test, talk, drive. Timing light strobe was the height of technology back then.
I had this problem on a peugeot 307 . It's was the BPGA (the thing you were bridging)
It contains a couple of relays that go faulty and don't always connect. High current, so probably pitted. Won't let the vehicle start or cuts the power.
This is a safety device so don't run it bridged. About £250 for new one from Peugeot
This car had been in a few garages by the time it darkened my door.
Pitted relays can be very intermittent.
usual problem Jimmy mechanics ASUMING instead of carrying out the basic checks first i.e. fuses /power feeds the number of times I've seen this happen . well done mate
Well done Jimmy
Nice one Jimmy. There is a known hack which basically short the that fuse to live thst works.. its in the forums i think.
Great job Jimmy 👍
I can't believe none of those "mechanics" didn't think to check the fuses!!!! As for starter motor boi, He should apply to McDonalds and start reciting, "Would you like fries with that?" 🤣The FIRST place I check are the fuses on the BSM because they are prone to getting grotty which can have an effect on the voltage. Back in 2014, my wife's 07 Citroen C4 started playing up. I found all the (blade) fuses on the BSM were corroded with moisture playing a part (she was forbidden from then on from parking under tree's at work as the tree bits found their way into the cover & had built up moisture). I cleaned the connections with a woman's cardboard nail file and the fuses with a small wire brush. Popped it all backtogether and away she went. I had a funny issue a couple of months back with ABS playing dead! I undid the multiplug for a while, then reconnected & interrogated again. This time I was able to connect & it turned out the rear right ABS sensor had been pushed out with rust. The retaining bolt prevented it going straight, so it curved over time & got eaten away by the spinning hub. This likely caused a dead short which created a problem so the CAN network disconnected the ABS module for protection. Replaced the sensor after clearing the rust and all was fine once more. This car is now 17 years old on the original turbo and coming up 102,000 miles and still goes like a bat out of hell when required. I LOVE Citroen 🥰 My own Berlingo is on 162,000 miles and original turbo. Just change the oil at 8k folks. And don't forget those teeny tiny banjo bolt filters for the turbo oil line 😉
Had the same issue halfords replaced battery van wouldnt start recomended new starter motor left when i declined i metered battery out myself 'new battery ' was showing 10 volts crafty sod had fitted a dud battery i complained they came out checked and replaced the battery he fitted apperently it want the first time it had happened.
BSI is inside the car (inside fusebox), engine fusebox is PSF1/BSM
Not BSM, its BCM.. Body control module
Thanks for sharing Jimmy👍👍👍
Had the same issue a couple of years ago its either the BPGA unit or alternator needs replacing or both in my case that needs replacing.
Btilliant Diagnosis and Job! 💯
Dry connections'???? Well done, Jimmy!
Had a citroen c3 auto that wouldn't start after the battery was changed the ecu had locked out after researching i found out it had to be started for the ecu to unlock so i had to bridge the starter to get it running was fine after that
Excellent job thank you for sharing
Thank you! Cheers!
GEAT JOB NICE WORK 👍👍👍👍
That's a battery monitoring module can also drain battery parasitic drain weldone iv had plenty like this give mobile mechanic a goid name agen 👍🏾
Would like to see a bsi video jim
There's a few on YT
Use tinned copper wire of correct gauge to make an adequate current fuse, or a card of bare fuse wire from DIY store 3 x 30 amp in parallel for 90 amp fuse etc..
Not safe to do parallel 'fuses" or fuses, as one will always blow before the others and then the other two can't handle the current and blow also.
@@bills6093 What you've described is exactly what you want to happen
The cable that wax bridged in this video is directly connected to the starter motor. When cranking, it has to provide close to 300 amps. Your bodge with three fuses would never work.
@@elliottpeters2996 I was only using 90 amp as an example of calculation, choose what's required. A starter for an average vehicle will never draw 300 amp continuously. Typical motor rating is 1.4kw at 10v so 140 amp, but often lower than this, around 100-130 amp. The only time it would get to 300+ amp is in a stall condition, or when initially powered before the engine is spinning.
A 30 amp fuse does not blow at 30 amp, as an example BS1362 states a cartridge fuse must be capable of carrying 1.6 x rated current for at least 30 minutes and blow at 1.9 x rated current. 30 amp wire will handle hundreds of amps for for a brief period . Its obvious all you've stated is just your imagination, and you have no practical experience and have never actually measured starter current with a current probe and a scope
Odd failure.? corroded connections when Volt is low current can flow
With any issues on cars , First check the double sprocket gromel valve , in the upward lift chamber , under the bugger it lid .
Is that by the wiffle woffle shafts?
Farb now the glimrod
Intermittent faults are a nightmare 😊
Great job jimmy,👌
Maybe the green crusties have got right into the main cables? Simple enough to do a voltage drop test.
a brill mechanic
How about nut missing on orange fuse?
was there a nut on the othersude of that orange fuse???
Great videopity don’t live in Liverpool
Is there any downside to permanently bridging the BPGA?
That unit is a bgpa! Also that’s not a bsi under the bonnet thats the engine bay electronics psf1, The bsi is inside the car.
When the bsi is renewed on one of these, does it have to be coded or is it plug and play?
Needs coding
I think so as when I plugged my launch scan tool in to my citroen it had in the bsi section a "reprogram of bsi", so i'm guessing it does need it to be coded. But I think that only this button needs to be pressed in "special functions" in the scan tool and that's it. I could be wrong though.
Is that a nut missing on that 30A orange fuse?
Is the kin g blower a good diagnosis machine
Interesting you don't think it's worth cleaning out the contacts for the BSI.
Why would it suddenly work couldn't get voltage before? is it a relay issue got stuck, maybe and connecting the voltage released it. They have relay or relays?
Relays on the BSI or BSM are sealed in so not replaceable
When car doesn't start, there are few culprits: fuel pump in the tank, high-pressure fuel pump in the engine bay, Suction Control Valve, Fuel Pressure Regulator on the common rail, air in the fuel lines that needs to bleed out, starter, injectors and battery.
Well maintained vehicle 😂
Obviously a well maintained car!
That car wants a new owner
This is the biggest issue with French cars. They're cheap to buy and often different/specific/difficult to maintain, so most owners don't bother.
That's why old French cars are so often broken.
Add to that the odd design failure.
@@JayMaverickSo what specifically makes them difficult to service?
Halfords: "So you just had a new battery, well lets put another new one in anyway".
Maybe the new battery wasn't programmed to smart alternator so caused it to shut down some modules.?
No it wouldn't cause this
You can start a car without battery being progammed..it just wont last long
What age vehicle does one need to programed the battery please ?
@@frankythehousecat2681look up battery coding/battery registration.
runs nice
Great video
This is what you get when car manufacturers makes things overly complex.
Multiple faults spread out often points to a single point of failure though.
Can perhaps see why them guys before went for battery when uhad multimeter it was 11.9 volts well below a good battery but thats a lesson too look deeper
B S I what is it please ?
Body system interface. It's what PSA call their main module that communicates with the rest.
Look in that fuse block if it comes apart , there could be a crack in the fuse .
Bsi .... 100 percent 😂🎉
i'll hang onto my trusty W-reg 306 for a bit longer.
The leads r the wrong way round the small lead joined to the positive lead should be in the position where the lead with the yellow tape is and the lead with yellow tape should be in the position where the small positive lead is
Well spotted👍
Have you checked the last recorded mileage in the mot history for this car? Is it any wonder 😂 theses always suffer with near side pothole butter suspension problem knocking sensors out
Must of those faults in brake system, is because it had a bad battery. Just drive the car above 18Mph and brake a couple of times. After that turn off and start the car again.
Contacts all need a clean
Top man......
Is there a nut missing of the top of that small orange fuse or is it just me?
Indeed there is a nut missing. Good spot
Actually looks like it's just missing a feed coming off it, like the others have the lead. So prewired for something but not installed in that particular vehicle
Scrap yard or euro car parts, should get delivered in a day 🤷♂️
Where have you being Hiding Lately?
Super Hero
Yeah he would be if he wasn't wrong with his diagnosis😂 Bsi is inside the car and won't be faulty anyway
Good job 👍
Why has the fuse blown? That’s why I wouldn’t be just bridging it temporarily without a fuse-able link.
The fuse didn't blow.
@@bills6093yep. That’s what u get for commenting before the end. However, he did ask whether it’d have been safe to temporarily bridge the fuse so my comment is still partially valid.
a shame i don't live in your area
Cool
Overdue a service by 17000 miles I think that Peugeot is getting some revenge on its owner for neglecting it!!
Walk away car looks like a shed not looked after at all
Jimmy, was the battery coded in?
Battery coding is only to correctly charge the battery
Check linbus alternator intelligent bro
You are star 😂
Battery adaptation
Start with the basics.
Is there 12v between the battery + and the engine block when trying to crank? Just because the battery is good does not mean the voltage is going anywhere.
Is there 12v at the starter? Is the solenoid getting 12v when attempting to crank?
Having 12v when not trying to crank does not count, a corroded wire can give 12v when not under load, and drop out when under load.
Being a Peugeot I suspect the entire electrical system has died of bad design.
Had one and the battery went flat. It's a very complicated and overly stupid sequence to restart the electrics.
Paddy does it again.
Old time mechanic from way back, now retired. This electronic shit is way too teck. for me. Give me a set of points and a carbie any day. Mind you, a fuse is still a fuse.
French cars aren't too bad once you get used to the logic of how they are made . French do have their own way of doing things
Possibly a stuck really⁉️
BSI typically never ever need replacement, just re-flashing and all good to go. Obviously you do not know how to do that and complaining the BSI fault. These BSI is known to have instant "errors" if battery goes flat. Physically all good, just re-flash needed
How does one "reflash" the BSI please ?
@@frankythehousecat2681 using io terminal tool
@frankythehousecat2681 there's several YT vids
@@hereIam1965, just look up "How to Re - Flash the BSI ?
Bsi is ok definitely not your problem
One of those😅😅you are never really sure its been fixed
Don’t use acronyms please. What the heck is a BSI ?
Them 1.6 hdis are worst engine on the planet anyway😂😂
I presume the owner is a farmer who used the car for transporting live pigs and/or chickens
French cars, u will leave it there
.more over complacated , over enginnered shite.....
Because French
Still better than the VAG n Audi electronics!!
Here's the biggest problem with French cars as opposed to most other manufacturers.
They're cheap to buy, and difficult to fix because of weird French design choices. That's why most buyers don't bother to fix them.
Add to that the odd cheap part and design failure and you get this reputation of bad quality unreliable car.
The real trick is to buy a used French car from a hobbyist owner who did all necessary and unnecessary maintenance. You can get a cheap daily car that way. 😎👌
@JayMaverick could really say the same about VAG group though in my experience with em, with the newer stuff that is. Of course the old stuff was lovely and nicely laid out but new gen vag stuff I find is the same or worse! Agreed on the French car front yes, but hard to find enthusiasts that are getting rid of older PSA cars
Really? And how many French cars have you owned then? I’ve owned three Peugeots and now on my 6th Renault. Only issue I had with any of them was a window regulator on my second Megane. I found them all to be very reliable, easy to maintain and cheap to run. I’d safely say I’ve more experience of French cars than most and would gladly have one over some Nissan built in Sunderland that is poorly put together and breaks down every five minutes (ask me how I know🙄).
@davidmehlhorn726 sadly in this country seems people would rather blindly bash French cars while riding blindy on the german=reliability thing from 25 years ago. Same here number of French cars and no issues.
screw all these computer driven vehicles !!!! my 1997 Nissan TD 2.8 4 WD very easy to fix if it wont start. . and i can fix it myself , Ha ! Ha!
only clowns have looked at the car , so not surprised the car is not fixed
Its a Peugeot so its shit
so glad i quit the motor trade about 15 years ago, thereb are far too many gadgets and toys these daze !
I'm a house mechanic.. 🏠 I'm plsd I'm out . Once upon a time there was 2 sockets in a kitchen , one for a kettle and the other for a toaster now it has to be hooked to its own grid .