This Broke One Week out of Warranty... Can I Fix it for Cheap?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ค. 2024
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Plouffe's old Asus VG27AQ monitor broke after three years of service, just out of warranty. We're not sure WHY it's power cycling, but a new mainboard is inexpensive enough and we're comfortable tinkering with electronics... what's the worst that could happen?
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CHAPTERS
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0:00 Intro
0:57 It's Dead, Jim
2:30 Replacement parts
4:00 Teardown
6:35 Replacing Parts
9:00 Uh Oh
11:45 Try Again
13:30 Conclusion
15:48 Outro - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[TH] VCT Pacific - Playoffs // T1 vs PRX | GEN vs DRX](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8FpC03jCU_Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey folks, if you're encountering a similar problem and your monitor has an external power brick, it may be worth replacing that first. These often fail before the monitor's internals, and are much simpler to replace. If you're having trouble finding an exact replacement, often you can get away with using one with EXACTLY the same voltage and the same or higher amperage. YMMV though; LMG isn't assumes no liability, this is not financial advice, etc :p
ok
“LMG isn’t assumes no liability...”
Roger that! 😂
Absolutely agree, one critical thing you forgot though when using a connector like in the video: please make sure it's center is the same. So both the old and new should be either center positive or center negative! Otherwise your device will thoroughly hate you... Unless you're using a power connector that uses a different standard like IEC C13, IEC C5, (non)polar C7 or something like that.
Lmao alright 😂
😊😊😊😂
Linus Drop Tips went 28 seconds without dropping a thing, new world record
@@Noob._gamer thanks Einstein
@@Noob._gamer It's the end of you, send your last wishes to your family, for now thou shall never be seen again.
The way he managed it, you could get away with calling it "Linus Toss Tips". That way you'd even keep the LTT.
He put all his points in luck, charisma and intelligence, none in dexterity.
@@DragonOfTheMortalKombat what did they say?
Engineers are becoming more and more precise with when the product fails immediately after the warranty expires. Truly a technological marvel.
Marketing*. Engineers want your sh*t to work, that's what we get paid to do.
No kidding 😅
And I have the same monitor 😮
Ya that engineer needs to be fired who designs a monitor that's just taped on especially where it's vesa mounted on.🫣
Any manufacturer/retailer that doesn't honor a warranty one week after it expires should be ashamed.
I think the engineering involved in making products work until just after the warranty runs out should be a story within itself.
There is a documentary about this on youtube called the light bulb conspiracy. Not sure if it is still online though it was made years ago, about this exact issue
@@Johninadelaide2022 Yep, when they made the first incandescent bulbs they found they lasted a long time. In fact there is one in an American fire station going for over 100 years. Of course the greedy bean counters didn't like that so they started making them more fragile so they wouldn't last and people would have to keep replacing them. That is where engineered obsolescence was born.
@@anth5189 Granted the bulb that was on for 100 years is a bit more complicated since IIRC it's not run at full power and never turns off so it doesn't heat cycle, but still, yeah that's pretty accepted to be a thing. Nowadays I think it's less of a big conspiracy and more just people want cheap stuff, so companies make cheap stuff. People complain, but then buy another cheap thing to replace it.
The exception I'll make is Apple's earpods. Went through like 6-8 pairs, 11 months each, almost to the day. That's impressive. (My ears are weird and I had a pile of them for EDC, don't judge)
@@Lizlodude Yes, that bulb is not an analogue for normal use, but even at 10% you are still looking at a decade or more. Especially in this greed driven society we have now, if they could get away with things lasting only days, they would.
@@Lizlodude I wouldn't call a $300 monitor cheap 🤷🏼♀️
Just some remarks:
- The small PCB is NOT the power supply for the LVDS board, but for the panel back light.
- Therefore the power supply is on the main board
- This monitor uses an external power brick, so the supply is not the mains, but about 19..24V.
- For the VESA mount to work correctly, you dont need to fix the metal box inside. The weight of the monitor is hold by the plastic housing. The box just behaves like captive nut.
- If you are not afraid to grab a soldering iron, I recommend to replace all biggest electrolitic capacitors on the main board. I have the suspition, that it will solve the problem for less than 10 CAD.
- I repared a lot of the early Samsung monitors that were prone to the dried out electrolitics. a set of those Elcos was about 6 EUR.
He needs to replace the capacitor on the LED driver, its ESR increased and it shorts the circuit (its a very sensitive circuit) so the monitor backlight driver shuts it down. This will fix it
maybe opt out for extras, OS-CON or Hybrid capacitors if the voltage and capacitance is available. Watch out for the ripple current!
Everything he has said is correct. Nice.
It's does wonders to get certified at soldering.
@@MyszkoServe I might remember incorrectly, but changing the backlight panel did not solve the problem, only changing the LVDS logic board.
The thing about replacing parts one at a time is that sometimes more than one part is bad. Especially troubling is when you replace the first broken part but the other broken part shorts in a way that breaks the new part.
My friend had a bad power supply that kept taking out his Hard Drive. They thought they hard drive was bad so they replaced it, which the power supply then took out the new hard drive as well.
My thought exactly. You got all the new stuff, just put in all the new stuff.
you can replace parts cumulatively until you get it working, then remove the first items you replaced to see if they were indeed broken.
I spend the last two weeks mainly searching failures. And exactly that happened. One part broke, I replaced it with another and that did break as well. Shit happens. Usually things just don't work correctly and not break right away, but it can happen.
Also, with different board revisions and firmware, you can't be sure that all parts work together.
I had that happen to a processor once. I replaced the cpu, but the psu was also bad and shorted out the new one so I had to get a new cpu (thankfully Amazon replaced it no questions asked) and a new psu. On the plus side, it introduced me to the joys of modular power units.
That "spend 3 hours troubleshooting cables" thing is so real. I helped a buddy build a PC a few years back, and it didn't boot. Half an hour later, I figured out that the power button in his case was busted
Only took half an hour? You’re some kind of troubleshooting speed-runner 😂
@@davidcassidy602 it was mostly just me looking at all the parts I'd need to try one at a time in his small form factor case and saying "screw that, sanity check first"
Checked all the cables, reseated the CPU, tried with one stick of ram, and just decided to bridge the power pins as a hail mary when none of that turned up anything
I probably tried 5-6 trying to fix a bug with my monitor disconnecting on boot.
Turns out the last 7 months of Nvidia drivers are broken with my specific monitor and GPU and I never updated them until then.
In other news, I hear books are fun. They don't need driver updates.
I was repairing my brothers pc, it turned on but with no output. After a while it didn't even turn on, and i spend like half an hour figuring out what did I fuck up. Turns out i connected the power button wrong.
The dual complementary MOSFET driving the backlit is the part you needed to replace. It looks like a chip with either six or eight pins.
The designer make it working at 80 °C; if one places a 4 °C/W heatsink on it, it will no longer fail and the next piece in line to fail is the main rectifier capacitors.
Thanks for the video...
Anthony
Any specific source? What you call dual complementary MOSFET is a real thing, but a dcdc converter will use a dual N FET, not a complementary pair...
Also at 3:46 you can see the backlight driver board and it has one switching fet or LDO and 2 caps and an integrated chip with the FETs and pmic in one single ic.
Are you THE Anthony?
At last, someone that knows what he's doing. Did you find this video a little cringe-worthy?
@@Amber57499 she is going by Emily now so I'm pretty sure this isn't her.
@@deki9827 ahahahahhahahahah lmao
The irony of "what's the worst that could happen" being said literally as Linus is in the process of smacking the screen with a screwdrivers is not lost on me
I'm glad you have two working eyeballs and at least half a braincell.
Can't really make this shid up lmao
Then the nonchalant "tell me what happened".
"You stabbed the poor monitor with your damned screwdriver, that's what happened! Oh, and the screen went _ploof_ a while ago after a week of functioning in terminally ill mode."
Asus is under a lot of fire lately. Both literally and metaphorically.
As soon as I hear that, I hear Han Solo say in my head, "I got a bad feeling about this.."
Can't believe we're at the point where Linus dropping something feels nostalgic
lmaoo😂
lol
i miss it
@Audiction, yeah man, LTT just isn't the same anymore. Linus has definitely changed. He doesn't drop as much stuff as he used to!
When you replaced the board for the first time, you may have accidentally shorted the circuit to the ground by placing it on the metal back side of the screen. This caused the power adapter to go into protection mode and disable the power output. Another thing to note is that the plastic case at the back is responsible for holding the metal case in place, which is why there are no screws.
Good observation.... And some bricks won't auto restart unless you unplug them for 10sec or so.
One of the SUPER easy things to fix on these boards that goes bad often and can be replaced even by a beginner is caps. If you see any swollen caps in old electronics that are having issues like this you can often just replace those and get yourself back up and running.
pretty sure that wasn't the case here, this is a device that barely has 3 years of use, was produced WAY after the capacitor plague, my guess is some mosfets or ic with no heatshink has been owrking a few degress over the recommended temperature and died, had to replace some on my fridge (it literally has 4 mosfets without any kind of cooling at all)
Bad caps was a big scandal about 13 years ago. Lot of fake ones out there. But not had anything go due to caps for many years now. Things have improved on that front.
@@jabezhane very true but I've still run into this issue repeatedly over the years with many different things ranging from my old amps, old consoles, newer flat screen tv's, to my electric toothbrush. Either this is just a common issue no matter the age of a device or I just have shit luck when it comes to buying devices with cheaply made caps lol.
Even if it's out of warranty I'll always reach out to the company to see if they'll replace it. The worst they can say is no but some companies understand that helping customers out can build brand loyalty.
Lol I'm sure ASUS cares about you. For sure.
@@Aggnog I wasn't talking about any company in particular I'm just saying it's a good practice in general.
Reached out to ASUS about my broken monitor, got an RMA # after telling them multiple times it was out of warranty, spent $40 to send it to them, they sent it back without even opening it because it was out of warranty, then I got yelled at by a customer service manager because I should have known that their customer service rep who gave me the RMA # and the actual RMA dept aren't in contact, and that.. I should have emailed that department, who I had never had contact with, wasn't told to contact, etc. They offered to ship it back for free if I covered the $100 repair of my years-old $120 monitor. Turned out to be one of the six capacitors I replaced myself for less than $2.
Moral of the story, research the company you're buying from- ASUS had 1/10 stars with the BBB for customer service, "reaching out" is nothing but a waste of time.
I filled their contact form out online, then the first email I received from a service rep asked me to email them a bunch of information... that was literally already in the email they sent me. My initial contact form from the website, where I entered all the information they were asking for, was IN THE EMAIL they sent asking for that very information. They genuinely don't want to work with you, the highest manager I was able to escalate to YELLED at me for not contacting the RMA department I was never told to contact or given an address for.
Astro helped me a week out of warranty
Or if you're in the EU, you have a grace period after the warranty ends to make claims, so no "product ded on last day of warranty at 22:00" and no claim.
I wonder how many products break right out of the warranty
A LOT
inconvenience
Probably a lot, considering warranty are an "estimate" for the product's life.
Gotta love that planned obsolescence
alot, my 32" 1440p monitor broke a week after warranty, i had to then shell another £350 on a replacement, so annoying lol
Really enjoyed this, I've missed the Linus that likes to tinker and mess with stuff, more of this please :)
also...
8:18 Thank you for standing up to us folks on a budget with the $20, that's a lot of money for a lot of people right now and it really was nice that you acknowledged that and called out Nick for his reaction, I'm glad Nick recognized that as well after being called out, well done guys :)
The circuit board angle mounting helps prevent excess emi interference with other devices. I learned this while making a DIY Wacom Cintiq (years ago, before they became affordable).
Something to keep in mind. Alot of newer monitors, lg, Asus, etc, the external power supply can actually go into a fault state when power spikes repeatedly. Example, a brownout, or sudden power loss. All that's needed is it to be completely unplugged on the AC side long enough to discharge the capacitors, and it'll exit the fault state and start right back up
long enough to charge the capacitors is ~10 seconds of holding the power button down on the device whilst it's plugged in with the outlet switch off
oh wait, Americans don't have ground pins or plug switches... haha have fun waiting half an hour
@@glebglub a lot of plugs have the third prong. And bathrooms often have an off switch (not sure if that works here), or you can use your breaker to turn off power to a whole area
@@glebglub Even in countries where all plugs have to have a ground pin they often just use a plastic one for this type of thing.
@@TheAkashicTraveller say that to my laptop, metal ground pin and if I don't have the switch turned off when plugging/unplugging it trips the breaker lol. plastic ground pins are on lower amp devices, so old 0.5A phone chargers up to 3A devices, anything 5A and above have metallic ground, or if it has a transformer built directly into the plug itself. at least that's been my observations with tech over the years
@@jeffreyg5209 Turning off the switch or breaker is like unplugging the power supply, you just open the circuit. When you use the ground pin there is a path for the remaining charges to escape quicker
With your platform it's an awesome move to push more "fix-it-yourself" content, build that sustainable mindset, and also one thing that I liked is the fact that you said that you can't break something that is already broken. My brother with that advice got me to fixing my own stuff, keep that content coming.
I've done this for ages. When something breaks, I have no concerns about digging in, seeing what's inside, and potentially fixing it.
@@NotTheCIA1961 I just like digging in. If I manage to fix it that's a bonus.
People are far too ready to throw things away though.
Love all your comment and all the replys .......fam its broken...... is it gonna get more dead
And its also important to show that it doesnt work everytime. Sometimes a dead component is just dead. That is an important message too
I would like to argue... Long time ago I tried repairing broken lcd backlight for a washing machine together with my dad, but machine itself was still working. Device was plugged in, but turned off and my soldering iron was grounded. Tried to desolder a faulty LED and a gigantic spark happened and lights went out. It's power supply mustn't have been galvanicaly separated or at least that's our only explanation for this. Anyway... It never turned on again 😂... oh and learned the hard way to unplug things even when you think it's fine to repair a section that's powered off anyway...
we were laughing, mom was not so happy
2:09 I have one of these thingies that I swear came off my index but I could never figure out what it was or where it goes and it has been bugging me forever.
I kept it and didn't lose it and it's been over a year and I would see it often enough that I remember what it looks like and immediately recognized it as the "mystery thingy."
I dug it out of the box I finally threw it in just a week ago and finally managed to find the slots that it goes into and restore it to its rightful place.
Glad that this LTT video solved a totally unrelated problem I've had for such a long time.
Please make more episodes like this, help further the idea of DIY and restoration projects in the electronic community
When I did TV repair years ago, having different revisions of mainboards could cause issues. Could have garbled output, no output at all, OSD/menu would not work correctly or hardware differences in where headers were located, differences in pin counts or even the mainboard being matched with the panel. Worth making sure you get the same revision of the board you are trying to replace or at least verifying it will work as a direct replacement.
One of my favourite things with especially game consoles is where they used different voltages and pin-outs on the PSU and main board. The Sega Saturn for example, where it uses 5 or 9VDC, and the pin-out of the PSU between these system revisions is different too. Makes for very exciting repairs and replacements.
I do TV repairs currently and in a lot of cases it's still like that. Samsung for example can have 2 or more versions of a specific model and there's no guarantee that a main board from one version will work for another. They may physically look identical but because the firmware to communicate with the panel is slightly different they are completely incompatible. You might not even get a picture at all.
@@tonyborrill1789 Yes, I remember Samsung being one of the worst with that... Sony was the one that would move stuff around or change pinouts...
With regard to the bracket with the vesa mount holes being taped on, I would imagine that the plastic back is, ultimately, what's keeping it in place. The tape will just be holding it there until assembled.
Also, the screws through the back provide fixture for the bracket that's taped on.
^ This. Also, the back part is what holds up the front panel assembly, so it doesn't matter if that internal bracket is just taped on the panel.
Btw, That "Power Supply" is a Backlight driver module, and your suppose to put grounding tape across not non-conductive tape as the cage has to be grounded to the panel to reduce electric shocks due to the high voltage coming from the backlight driver.
Truly gratifying to see Someone else have a good result with zero idea what changed.
I have seen very similar issues twice but with PCs failing on boot. Those machines started booting then did power cycling. In both cases some capacitors failed. Maybe it would be interesting to look at the caps on the main board...
Seriously, before going straight for a whole new board they should've recapped the old board. Power cycling is a pretty common side effect of bad capacitors and capacitors are easy to replace on the cheap. I managed to repair an otherwise great PSU that had a bad 5V standby due to some bad caps that was doing something similar.
It's almost always the caps. I've brought two monitors and an old LCD HDTV back to life simply by replacing the electrolytic capacitors. I didn't even bother trying to do any diagnosis. All had power cycling issues.
yeah i have seen it multiple times with tv an pc monitors and it was always the capacitors
Came here just to +1 the capacitor check.
bad caps was my initial idea too. Sad to see they didn't try to find the faulty cap. The board doesn't look very complex, a multimeter and 15 minutes should've been enough to find the problem. I'm actually surprised that with all the lab people they hired, there's no one who's into repairs or just electrical engineering in general. That would've been tons more interesting to watch instead of "muh we replace whole board alright"
In a way, this is a nice sequel to Alex replacing the panel of his monitor.
This kind of video is exactly why I love, and watch, LTT. I've been watching for a decade at this point. Crazy.
0:00 The transition between thumbnail and video was amazing!
Usually, issues with power cycling are caused by leaked capacitor. You may just touch the parts by hand to check which are the hottest ones, or check capacitors by multimeter for like dozen of minutes and then replace it with very simple soldering :) usually it takes like 5 bucks to get brand new capacitor even for the power circuit.
ya but if it doesnt work it is waste money
Slava ukraini
@@realcartoongirl most capacitors cost pennies, most repair shops will have drawers and drawers of em. The biggest problem usually is the time sink, or the skilled labor (if it is a low-skill repair shop)
Yea, but LTT tends to want to show the easiest, even if not cheapest, option for repair
The average person runs in fear the minute you pull out a soldering iron
@@realcartoongirl and that's still like 20 bucks less than in that case :)
And there are much more chances to fail with used parts than with brand new capacitor :) if you are at least somewhat competent in basic physics :)
I would guess that the secondary board is a driver for the backlight rather than a power supply for the motherboard.
When you didn't see anything on the screen at all, it's possible that the backlight was just off. You might have been able to see an image by shining a bright light on the panel.
Yeah, you can even see the wires coming off it going into the bottom of the panel (where the LED array likely is).
Also you could clearly see it has an external power brick, so the daughter board is 100% backlight, backlight often runs at 48V and LVDS at 12V and it needs to be seperated.
To check for missing backlight your smartphone flashlight will do the trick, but not a lot of people know that. Replacing the LVDS cables was total nonesense, especially because it used 4, if one is broken, you'll get a broken image in the part of the screen the cable is responsible for, if you unplug one, the responsible part becomes white. It would have neen interesting to see, how the display is driven. If one cable does every fourth pixel, some kind of alternating in every display half or one quarter of the screen.
@@webfischiI think the display is probably divided vertically into 4 quarters. I'm not sure that any other arrangement would make sense with that packaging (you'd have to route wires all over the place within the panel).
There are also likely to be other DC-DC converters on the motherboard that could be 'failed power supplies'.
100% agree with all comments here. My brain kept screaming this. This needs to be a higher-rated comment.
That Asus logo is what's shown when the monitor powers on for the first time, and then will go away and be replaced with an input, or an input not found. Each time it cycled, it showed the initial logo. So the original fault wasn't a backlight issue. When they weren't getting any power at all, the power LED wasn't turning on either. So that wasn't a backlight fault either.
Love what you did there with the thumbnail and the start of the video
I'm glad I'm not the only one that goes through this nonsense every time I try to repair some electronic component
The likely issue was Pinouts differing between the power board and main board. Remember, different revisions. I've had to change wire order in the past for this reason
The video starting right from the thumbnail is amazing and honestly something you should consider continuing going forward.
Love the transformation from thumbnail to video
Glad to see the Intro back!
And that's one reason why I usually buy used stuff that is well outside its warranty. If it survives the first year after that it's probably gonna last. The other option is talking the sales associate into giving you extended warranty. They have a margin to play with and will usually give in :D
I use that monitor as my main. Bought it cuz the LTT crew gave a good review when it came out. Very pleased with it.
Are you happy to own a monitor that holds together just by a sticky tape? Does not seem like the best investment.
@@elukok most moniters are holded together like that. And the stand (vesa mount) is the thing that hold it together
@@Gokul_Yt The vesa mount is also sticky taped to the monitor. It does not even have a supporting frame, it is held together just by the pannel itself. That is horrible. Would never buy anything like this. Total lowest cost garbage in terms of build quality.
@@elukok if it works it works
@@elukok it hasnt fallen apart yet after a few years. So until it that happens, ill say yes im happy with it.
im so happy the intro is back
Loved this. One of the best videos and shout out to the editor who did some crazy stuff in there as well!!!
The whole time I was watching this I was thinking, it's probably the power brick, not the circuit board! The actual power supply of this monitor is the power brick with the DC barrel, it doesn't have an internal power supply... If the monitor is power cycling there is a fat chance that thing is actually faulty. I don't know if they'd actually tried another power brick, but if they didn't that definitely the first thing they should have tried...
Thank you.. i was almost yelling at the screen... External PSU!!
It does have a psu: the 2 coils, caps and other components
The board gets some base voltage and uses buck/boost converters for all other voltages since it saves weight/space in the actual monitor (dont have to include that psu)
Manufacturer's responsibility doesn't end at warranty. And since the symptoms started within the warranty period they should just fix or replace that monitor.
Basically this. Just contact them. Name brands don't actually want you to feel like they screwed you. They want you to buy more of their stuff. So if you're just a bit out of warranty they might just replace it anyway, or offer a discounted repair. Worst case they'll say no and nothing changed.
@@jfolz Discounted repair for only $180. Kidding but not kidding, you're right though.
they should provide a way to repair device even after warranty period for a reasonable price
Yeah except then everyone will say "yeah it stopped worked last week/month/year when it was under warranty, I just haven't gotten around to letting you know until today"
@@thesexywarden They do though? They sell replacement parts but as Linus said in the video, you can wait quite a while to get one.
Love seeing the LTT intro again!
6:47 Thank you for not wasting the opportunity to at least narrow down the issue to the module/component level.
I had similar issue with my Samsung 22" monitor like 12 years ago. Had to buy 1 capacitor (or whatever its called) for like 50 cents and asks someone to replace broken one. Monitor works today.
You could see broken one with naked eye, it was enlarged compared to others.
Why no one has tried replacing the power brick first? That seems like much more likely culprit than the main board.
This video felt so scuffed that it made it more relatable. What a banger. Good work.
The amount of times that I ran into breaking things more and then the relief when you get it back to where you started. And also the amount of times that doing something that should not have resulted in a fix, but somehow managed to fix it.
Also board revisions and the panels, from my experience, should match the old. Newer revisions are not always a plus when ordering replacement parts. That's just been my experiences though. Maybe these newer HIGHER refresh rate monitors, they decided to change it up, to be more repair friendly. Trust me I know how rediculous that sounds. Not the idea, the idea sounds great, but I have little faith that they are making anything more repair friendly. I'm talking about the industry as a whole obviously. There are those that go against the trend, sometimes for the better and sometimes for the worse.
Replacing parts one by one can cause a cascading failure, as if the part with the fault connects to a part without a fault, the bad part can kill the good part. In the case of a dead short where there shouldn't be a dead short, you see one board that has a blown chip and you replace that board, but a secondary board actually has a short and is sending 40v down a line that should only be 5v for example. So the new board gets a cool new blown chip of its own, and you're out a replacement part. Not to say that you should never replace parts one by one, but depending on the scale/cost of the equipment, or the scarcity of parts, it may be worth being far more methodical (voltage probing, logic analysis, or even just replacing all the parts anyways) in some cases. If I had all the parts, I'd just go ahead and replace all of them. I might try to scope the broken parts out of curiosity, especially now that I (hopefully) have a working monitor that I can reference (rather than sketchy schematics or educated guesswork if there's no schematics).
Exactly, and here it was for the sake of maybe saving $20, as Plouffe mentioned. They were crazy not to just change it all as they had the full kit.
The VESA mount goes into that but it goes through the plastic cover, as well. I guess the cover does carry and distribute the weight of the display.
I'm at the start of the video just hearing the explanation of the screen and it inmediatly makes me think of an issue I had before where I used the same workaround. The issue was quite simple, the power cable of the monitor was broken, once changed out it was fixed
Thanks for teaching us about monitors whether you tried too or not!
I would have been really interested in seeing Linus put the old main board in the oven before replacing it just to see if it saved it for free
That only really works if the device has what is called a cold solder joint that has finally failed from thermal shock, or from being moved around often. You're essentially melting the solder again, in order to (hopefully) restore electrical connections.
I'd presume that the mainboard of a monitor wouldn't have either scenario.
louis rossman is rolling in his grave
@@ckl33 Louis Rossman is still very much alive.
@@smalltime0 or bad balls under a chip. A flaw at manufacture may fail after X amount of heat cycles
@@TsubasaSyaoran Yeah, but he's rolling in his grave anyway, that's how much he hates the idea of baking electronics in an oven in the naive hope of fixing them.
I've fixed over a hundred different monitors that had these exact symptoms, most of which I've acquired for free because no one wants to pay to fix things anymore.
Moral of the story, make sure to check the power button or OSD control board first. As the end user you are always powering it up and turning it off and or adjusting settings continually. Those little click-y, tactile, switches have the tendency to fail and get stuck closed or open. It could also be the rectifier in the power adapter which is expected to have a variable and continual heat cycle throughout it's lifetime especially in poor ventilated areas (pile of cords and adapters "cable managed" underneath a desk) which COULD degrade or reduce it's efficiency thus disallowing it to provide the proper voltage or current.
one time my pc-s power button kept turning on and off my pc ... took me 6+ hours to figure it out ... i tought it was so many other things before i was like ok i am gonna pull everything out and see if jumping the pins work and it doesn't just start power cycling....
it was one of my hardest fixes to find cause i never expected that the power button shorts or breaks ... it was a relatively new case too so i wasn't rly suspecting it
When powercycling it's usualy the cheap electrolytic capacitors. You can even see that the ones on the old power supply are a bit bloated.
Same here. And from all the ASUS one i had, it was the external AC adapter. Same thing when a cheap light LED panel flicker. Always the AC adapter.
the split second where the monitor turns off and on at 0:31 is gold
the transition from thumbnail to video is great
Would be good to have a follow up video trying to fix the board at a component level. Many comments here suggesting to try changing capacitors although I reckon it could be a different component such as a power management IC or mosfet that has gone bad.
Came to say this! Far more interesting than a board swap.
I've had a very similar issue, monitor wouldn't turn on for a while and then suddenly work again every few days, after it died I got a new one and tried to fix the old one just out of curiosity and learning board repair. The issue was the 5V voltage regulator for the main IC, it was outputting less than 2 volts and instantly getting very hot. At the time I didn't have tools for SMD soldering so I just forcefully removed the old one and added 3 cables to a different and slightly higher current step-down voltage regulator set to 5V and it worked. The old regulator's part number was MP1584EN and I've seen it fail in a few other devices.
Am I the only one who during the first half minute thought capacitor plague? Happened to a monitor of mine once, replaced all the caps, works like a charm for several years now :) .... now to watch the rest of the video.
Same. Most broken monitors are just blown caps
Yeah that could have been a bad capacitor or a loose connector or some other easy to fix thing, would have tried those first before going for spare parts.
shorted smd cap would trigger protection circuit in power supply, hence the power cycling.
@@kingeric1992 That's rather unlikely because a shorted smd cap will pull its related power rail low thus preventing actual circuitry from working on that power rail. In this case it's clear that actual circuitry gets to quite late stage of starting because there is some image on the screen. With a shorted smd cap it will stop long before that stage.
To me this seems more like a power supply issue with the PSU unable to deliver enough current or going into some kind of undervoltage protection due to most probably failed bulk electrolytic caps on the output of the main PSU and it seems this monitor has external PSU which are prone to running very hot and degrade its caps rather expeditiously.
You're not the only one, this is a clear case of capacitor plague. They should've went straight for the caps rather than an entire replacement board.
Linus, you are such fun to watch. Whether by act or coming naturally it's good to see you being human. Some peoples pride would prevent them but you come across like our friendly next door neighbor. Thank You.
i have a monitor that required sort of a "pump start" i had to switch it back off before the backlight came on and then on again a couple of times before some charge pump in the back light powersupply was "saturated" enough to not pull down and reset the entire main power supply when it started.
i also have a dumpster find UHD monitor that works perfectly fine if i supply it with auxilary power through a port that is meant to DELIVER power to an optional soundbar module except for the backlight which i found out had a component that litterally blew up.(when i disassemble the panel stack and remove the backlight diffusor i can see the regular image when i hold it against a lightsource) i found the other half of the packet ratteling inside the case when i disassembled it.
Linus dropped that screwdriver faster than they dropped Anker as a sponsor.
Would have been cool if they tried troubleshooting the old board for the individual component that failed. I know it would be a ballache, but mainboards for old devices can be impossible to find. But using replacement components can (sometimes) be an easier and cheaper solution if you have the right equipment.
my guess is that they should try reflow cpu
I love these videos. Please keep them coming!
I was very anxious the whole time Linus was waving that back panel around without unpluging the ribbon cable first. Everything I know about repair was telling me that was a terrible idea.
0:27 the monitor was already broken, you don't need to break it more!
I actually had a similar issue recently with my ASUS monitor - but it ended up not being an issue with the panel or monitor itself - it was infact the power cord and the AC/DC transformer in the cord that was the issue. Bought a replacement online and not had an issue since.
Man, with Linus moving to CVO, it really feels like the videos are more fun. Keep up the great work!
Very cool video, especially as I happen to have the same monitor! Pretty cool to see what is on the inside.
Actually Linus brings up a good point. Would it be possible to get a rundown of power efficient, low refresh monitors for text monitoring?
E-ink isn't there yet, but something else that sips power would be really cool!
literally check the cheapest shittiest monitor on your fav etailer or even second hand and that one, i have a 150€ 2017 aoc monitor that i daily drive until i can get a better one and this consumes less than many laptops, looks ok enough it's IPS at least and of course only 60hz 1080p (you can force an up to 75Hz output without problems tho). Only HDR and highr refresh rate monitors consume a lot, the bare minimum 60hz 1080p 20-25' monitors we have nowadays are all sub 45W
Unless you have an industrial need for it to be low power then just the cheapest one would probably be best. Getting a more efficient one would probably cost more than the amount you would ever save on power
Poor guy... It's almost like these companies design for the warranty periods to be just short enough that your computer will last just barely longer!
I miss the intro, please keep it for good. It adds so much life to the video
This video is a godsend! I had the same issue with my work issued monitor but was my fault because i dropped it (the stand was crazy heavy) however from what i can tell the display itself is fine. Absolutely going to attempt a repair now that i have some clue as to the insides of a monitor
Asus really got that warranty down pat.
meanwhile acer monitor is 10 year old and works like new lol
@Taistelupelto420 hahaha i love when someone points out confirmation bias
Linus has come a long way from dropping items we can all say he’s improved drastically. Good Job Linus💪
Hey Cool! I watched this video on that exact same monitor! I also noticed it was one of the items in the amazon cleaning supply challenge.
Thank you for bringing the Intro back 😅
My 10+ years LG monitor just had the same thing like a month or two ago. Had to buy a new monitor. Finally 1080p! AND 75 HZ. My gaming skills have gone through the roof... 20 years ago. Never came back.
Jokes aside, mine started making some noise, like a slight coil whine. If I turned it off, it would have a hard time going back on. So I left my pc on for like a week with the monitor on. The panel is still intact (even though it's old and crappy). But something must be going on with the connector or whatever it is. If you press the button to turn it on, the button has a red LED light when it's ok. So it tries to power on and then goes back to off. This was slow at first until it turned on, like an old man trying to get up from his chair. But after a while the "cycling" started going faster and for longer periods of time until it didn't turn back on anymore.
The sad part of it is that it would be great to have 2 monitors now, finally! even if one is just 720p. But it has VGA in it, and lo and behold, my GPU (580) does not have VGA nor DVI (I have some DVI to VGA adapters somewhere). It has DP only (THREE OF THEM, something at least in my country I've never heard anyone use) and only ONE HDMI, which is what I'm using right now directly since the new mon has HDMI. All this considering if it IS fixable and/or easy or cheap to do so. But I don't think so either.
I mean of course this is uploaded 5 minutes before WWDC :( will have to watch this after lol
Ik same situation here
I DIY repaired my old Samsung monitor when the CCFL backlight died. I disassembled the monitor COMPLETELY (yes, even separating t he glass/plexi panel) and boy was it a PITA to get it back together. Took me a few hours actually but I fixed it so was happy 😃
Replaced the CCFL with LED strips which doesn’t look as good but it’s definitely useable.
love these repair videos!
3:03 I’m 99.999% sure the other board would work. Most of the subtle model name things are geographic changes or case changes (adjustable stand); they’re usually the same inside (possibly binned differently)
that other model has a VA panel, I dom't think it would fit in this monitor
About a month out of warranty for my dell laptop, it started having so many problems.
I would recommend trying to measure the continuity (between the foil on top and the adhesive) of the tape holding the main card cage in the monitor. Chances are it does double duty of tape + conductor.
The first thing one can always try on a monitor that has power cycling issues like this one is replacing the capacitors. They are dirt-cheap and soldering them isn't very hard at all.
Little tip for longevity of your monitors: Do not cut mains power to your monitor every day. Every time you cut power, the caps will drain and refill again when it comes back on. This will put more strain on them than if you just let them powered. (Please correct me if I'm wrong on that and you know what you are talking about.)
almost a RIP plooffe's monitor, glad they could fix it!!
I REALLY hope that the team behind the ROG Ally have been able to push back on upper management and will have some sort of repair program.
I share an earnest hope that the esteemed team responsible for the development of the ROG Ally has successfully exerted their influence over upper management, advocating for the implementation of a comprehensive repair program. Such a program would undoubtedly serve as a testament to their commitment to customer satisfaction and their dedication to rectifying any issues that may arise with the product.
And some internal training to teach them how to use screws instead of tape.
@@elukok Its quite standard, there are more manufacturers building monitors like that
@@elukok There's no problem with using tape. It's not like it was built to be tossed around
@@squidwardo7074 It was build to last at least few years. Do you really trust tape to be long lasting?
And it is taped directly to the panel. No supporting frame. That is really crap. I would expect Chinese copy of this monitor to be build better.
I hope everyone at LTT is having a good day
this guy has the same monitor i have and i have the same problem too but only sometimes
thank you for tips!
If they do another monitor fix like this, they should put the monitor on a glass table with a mirror underneath (Obvs not entirely on the glass because that could break it, but like supported by something soft on the sides of the monitor) or maybe propped up on a stand that supports the sides and allows the monitor to be seen.
I have had a similar thing with my monitor that was running smoothly since 2012. The board had friendly labels on the silk screen and I was able to find a replacement within a minute. However, I also found a comment that said that usually one of the 6 large capacitors goes bad because they are barely within the voltage range of that driver and that replacing them can save the whole thing. I replaced these capacitors for 65 cents each and the monitor is working fine again.
I did almost the same exact thing back in 2019. I bought a broken Asus PG278Q for £120 delivered and a PG278QR mainboard for £50 delivered. The main issue I ran into was that the QR moved the power plug to a separate board that I couldn't buy, so I ended up working out where to solder wires and mounted my own barrel socket. I also had to modify the metal casing as the ports were different. Other than that, they are interchangeable though.
I'm still using it right now, although it's now my second monitor. Been working flawlessly for almost four years now, the QR is also the newer model with more features compared to the Q which is nice.
I fixed so many flatscreen TV's by just replacing some capacitors (since they often use the 85 degrees ones) or replacing some fly-back transformers. Often takes like less than an hour or so.
i kinda want to get into this especially since my dad was an electrician but i dont know how to start or hat to start learning
@@poopslayer6863 By just doing it, haha! There are plenty of videos and tutorials out there. Just watch a bunch to get an idea what skills are involved. If you think it's something you would like to do and are capable of, just find a broken TV and start trying. You do have to be able to solder and be comfortable working around potentially lethal voltages.
@@p_mouse8676 i can say i have been hit with lethal voltages and burned myself with a soldering iron quite a few times lmao so i got some experience there. i think i need to watch some tutorials so i understand what i am actually doing lol thank you for recommending that
Cool tip! Even if your device is fine, try taking in before the warranty ends anyway.
honestly the camera audio is good enough that i didn't notice after the initial switch lol
From a perspective of an EE, i would call the two PCB's: Scaler board and DC/DC boost converter for the backlight LED's.
I have a laptop that died at right under one and a half years old, with a one year warranty. It was just about a week ago, and I'm blaming myself a lot for not taking 2 or 3 year warranty, but the motherboard died, so I lost an i7-11800H and rtx 3060 laptop out of nowhere. I know your pain Plouffe.
if you're from the EU/UK, take it to small claims court or the shop you bought it from, citing the Consumer Protection Act x
@@glebglub thanks for the tip, but I’m not from there unfortunately
Could we get small warnings at the bottom whenever Linus is on video that state "Linus is a Professional Dropper, please do not try this at home."
I had a Samsung 245T that had issues turning on after ~7 years I think? After reading around I pulled it apart to figure out what the caps were on the power board and ordered replacements as similar as was available. That thing was interesting to figure out how to get into it. I basically learned to solder on a $700 CAD monitor with really bad tools. Stay away from cheap irons. It was still working for another 7 years until I replaced it. I did the same repair for a friend who also had a 245T that developed the same issues. It also held up until it was replaced later on.
My friend had this exact same monitor and same issue , but repaired under warranty about 2 weeks ago. Crazy timing
remember people it might be broken, but it's not really broken till Linus gets his hands on it!