I'm in east tn. Here everyone with a woods buggy is running big bore 1600s to strokers with duals. I've recently acquired an old rail that's been sitting 17yrs in a shed. It's an 1835 with a DPR cw balanced crankshaft and rotating assembly. It had 36 mm dellortos but I've removed them and going to a single 40 mm dellorto. It'll be a good month or so before I can get it cleaned up re wired etc and see how it does. Reason for swapping to a single is exactly what you said. My buddy has a 2276 with dual 44 webers on his rail and the breathers and carbs get 100 percent soaked in mud. Idk about sand type terrain but I personally wouldn't run duals on any off road type terrain especially in a rail. PS, for those that haven't personally rans duals, they are absolutely an upgrade as apposed to a single. I personally have ran single dellortos in woods buggys in the past with excellent results as long as you can keep trash out of the jets
Hey EZGZ, I've watched a few of your videos and realized you got a lot of knowledge crammed between your ears, this video confirms the direction I'm going with my build. I'm a little rusty at working on vdubs , haven't had one since the 70s and just gave my wife one for her birthday since we met when her 68 wouldn't start and I had 2, a 65 and a 67 and got hers running. That was 47 years ago and just wanted to go back and relive some memories. I rebuilt my engines to stock and they ran ok for a bug but I went to the drags and this guy had a bug that was beating everything it was going against and was going against a crowd favorite at the time Brutus GTO and was ahead till he broke an axle, I built my bug motors after that and never looked back. My bugs weren't as crazy as the bug at the drags but good enough to beat my share of camaros, mustangs, chevelles,etc. My initial mistake was only running 4 dowels on my crank. 1st time I ripped the flywheel off I thought I didn't tighten enough and had to replace crankshaft, within a week it did it again. I went to this old German mechanic with a German accent and asked what I was doing wrong and he laughed and showed me his jig to drill the 4extra holes in the crank and let me use his jig and sold me 8 oversized dowels that were like. 005 over and to put them in freezer till I was going to install and never had a problem after that. He even told me to to adjust lifters initially cold to spec and then take car out and get to operating temperature and bring in quick while still hot and tighten rockers and then back off till pushrods could be spun. Did with fingers like he said but was painful so I took a clothes line clip and modified to spin pushrods. I had the quietest valve train around. I've got a question about your engines, what's up with sparkplug in breather tube 🤔 and will give you a holler when complete, good video 😁
Cool story. The spark plug just happened to fit in that hose to block it off since I don't run it to my air cleaners but I like the bottom dump to relieve crankcase pressure. If you have the money go with a new aluminum engine block. Make it a 2 liter stroker. 78 x 90.5 With stock valve heads a real mild cam like Engel 100 dual carbs. VERY RELIABLE combo with plenty of power and you can keep the stock heater boxes. Just MHO
Awesome - I have a couple factory Solex dual carb set-ups I've been wanting to try on the wife's car.My car has a Progressive - I love. Runs very well.
Thanks , for the heads up on this video. Excellent information, I wasn’t watching 4 years ago, that Weber book sounds like a good investment. Thanks EZ.
@@TheEZGZ If ever you want to expand d your horizons... I had planned to convert my 1600 to a 2bl propane carb, you can actually burn propane or propylene instead of propane. Check it out, it was banned for racing. Of course it will work with a turbo too! Cheers 🍻
Thanks, It made for a long frustrating day while dealing with a new camera that I just got. That 120 is a little much for me. I must be getting old and crotchety. :-)
Great video, lots to digest. I'm liking the research that you are doing. Keep them rolling. PS, car show and drags great yesterday but video camera puked on me, friend is try to recover video. VW:)
What's up with camer's. Mine puked as well. Except I tipped over the tripod with the camera on it one to many times. Getting used to this new camera and it is different in many ways.
i hhad that double barrel progressive carb on my 1600dp, w freeway flyer, folks said they had a flat spot, i never had an issue i loved it, an you could feel it o er stock
just for anyone waffling like i was the cb performance over the top linkage is great! in my opinion on a buggy you can tap 1/8" npt the end of the cable housing use 1/8npt to compression fitting and continue line to pedal!
My Dellorto was idling on the first progression hole, so instead of drilling the butterflies, I used torx butterfly mounting bolts, drilled with a 1millimetre hole drilled through. Thanks for your help, it keeps me thinking.
Great informative video and thank you for doing this. My type 3 square is a dog and I hope new carbs can help. But unfortunately my choices are slim. Thanks for the video.
Hey EZGZ, I have a 1776 with centre mount DRL40. The jets etc are all the same as yours and even had 28mm venturis. It drove very well at anything above idle and pulled really hard through the gears but would stumble when accelerating from idle, particularly when warm. This was due to the carb getting very cold and fuel dropping out of suspension. The aftermarket exhaust has heat risers that don't work, not because they're blocked (it's brand new) but because they're not designed properly. One side should suck while the other blows. I popped 26mm venturis into it and the difference was astounding. Just that little extra vacuum improves the fuel atomisation. A vestige of a stumble is still there when warm but I feel an original muffler with proper heat risers will fix that. On another tack, I'm not sure your reasoning is correct when explaining the larger hole in the butterfly of the solex carb. It can't be because it's feeding 4 cylinders instead of two because the cylinders don't all breathe in at the same time. They all take turns, so the hole is satisfying one pot at a time. Good video, mate!
@@TheEZGZ thank for the reply. Forgot all about your situation. But an afr would allow you to pick a middle of the road jet. 🤔 anyway Mr ezgz I am wishing a very merry Christmas and a Happy NewYear. I also wish great health and wealth (in that order) and this is coming from Larry Lopez from the great state of Texas take care
Do all the two barrel Webers and Dellortos have the same base mounting pattern? I'd like to build a Type-III setup with reversed dual-port end-castings, and a center mount sidedraft, maybe using a modified center section like yours.
EZGZ what bypass do you recommend .. I noticed what you just said I have a center mount and Tryin to get dialed .. you’re right it don’t squirt right off..
It's called a zero bypass valve. It's the brass screw in the bottom of the float bowl that has ball in it. Any place that sells weber parts should carry it. Heat that manifold and good luck Air Correction Jet: 1.60 Emulsion Tube: F-11 Main Jet: 1.45 (drilled) Pump Jet: .50 (uses .0 bypass) Idle Jet: .65 Venturi: 28mm Zero Bypass check valve
@@TheEZGZ guys down here in so ca were telling me f7 emulsion for the center mounts but I ain’t going to do more until my heater manifold is hooked up.
I am having trouble finding linkage to attach the factor accelerator cable to this carburetor set up like the one you have used here. If you have made a video on this subject please let me know, like wise if anyone else has seen a tutorial on this please point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance.
great video and info EZGZ, at this moment i have had a nightmare trying to tune a single weber 40 idf 28mm venturies on a 1776 motor, bigger valves and 1:25 ratio rockers, i couldn´t idle it well, so i ended drilling holes in the plates, at this moment each hole is 3mm diameter, and still looks to need a little more because to have it turned on i need to open more than a half turn the throttle speed screw, and at this point it has a stumble when leaving idle to transition, do you think is it ok to open more the holes in the throttle plates? or do i need to check or try something different, i´m running msd ingnition dizzy with 6al box, timing is reaching 32 grades when accelerating, and other question, what gap do i need on spark plugs when running MSD ignition? thanks in advance
No. Not yet I have learned a lot since I made this video. You need a zero bypass valve (the brass check valve in the bottom of the float bowl) WEBER 40 IDF Factory Sizes Single Carb AIR CORRECTION 1.60 EMULSION TUBE F-11 MAIN JET 1.45 PUMP JET .50 . IDLE JET .65 . VENTURII 28mm NOTE: Drill 2mm Hole in each Throttle Valve for Single Carb setup. .0 Bypass
@@TheEZGZ thanks, i have been reading on forums, and i found that the manifold diameter i´m using is bigger than a normal manifold, so i assume that´s why for idle my carburator is needing more air, i will try to sleeve my manifold and see what happen, and thanks i also will try zero bypass valve to solve stumble when in transition
@@TheEZGZ Hi EZ, i sleeved the manifold to make it smaller diameter, it feels better when tuning idle, throttle velocity screw is almost out just 1/2 turn from touching, holes in throttle plates are 3mm each, but I still have hesitation in transition, I´m going to try zero bypass valve, thanks for the help
I have a 1915cc on my bay window bus & I went from dual Kadrons to a single large Weber & I lost a lot of power. Is that normal or to be expected? Does a single carb setup get better fuel economy? Thanks
VERY common if you don't heat the intake manifold with something as good as stock muffler set up. Even in a Bus engine compartment I'll bet if you put your hand below the carb it's Cold, Wet and or ice. That means your running LEAN and using more gas to do it. Liquid gas does not burn. I hope you can go back to those Kadrons and then you can complain about linkage and clogged idle jets. Sorry for your pain.
what's the best single carb for a standard 1600? I'm running a Solex 34, and It's really slow when i drove it on the hill or even highways. or maybe I should refurbish my carb?
That stock 34 pic-3 is hard to beat on a totally stock engine. It's hard for me to advise you about an old car with many miles. Get a book and make sure everything is in tune. Make sure your timing is correct and advance is working. New plugs and wires etc.
Hey EZGZ, I've been watching your videos.... you really know your stuff. I'm new to VW's, I have a signal Weber IDF carb set up. My engine was running fine but I wanted to try and smooth it out at bit so I tried to tune the carb by do the procedure I found online on Redline.com....... I really messed it up! hahaha I need help. I know the air bypass screws were open a bit but after turning from the instructions they are not now.....
how many miles per gallos you get with that carb , i m thinking to put a bigger carb, i m bug but i m going to rebuilt the engine and put a cam and maybe 74 mm crank but dont know what type of carb i want to used ,so what can you advise me , i dont want to get 15 miles to a gallon
If you run a single carb without heating the intake manifold your mileage will be in the mid teens most of the time. Dual carbs are the only way to go and if set up correctly will get over 20mpg I have taken some long trips 2k to 3k miles and averaged 25 MPG with dual two barrel carbs
Hey Brother how's it going just an update everything seems to be running good but when I am at Full Throttle after a couple seconds it seems like it loses power I'm aiming towards the regular fuel filters but I was wondering is there a fuel filter in the carburetor itself somewhere under the banjo if so could you show me so I don't have to take it apart again
I'm hoping it will stay the same but I have to put a few tanks threw it to be sure. You had also mentioned engine temp and that is something important on a air cooled. I know I'm not telling you anything Terry. You could write a book. You do amazing things at your place.:-)
Hi EZGZ, I was wondering what dual carburetor set up you would recommend for a beginner on a 1600 dual port engine? I have alot of mechanical knowledge and ability just wanted to get your opinion on what would be best for a car that will be driven alot and be the easiest to maintain while still getting good power and reliability. Thanks!
We are all beginners my friend. Don't be afraid, Don't buy someones used junk in a bucket. I was a beginner ounce too. I was hanging around a lot of sand junkies and folks with VW engines. I looked and listened and asked questions. I listened to the people who had good running cars and asked if they would give me a ride. That was 25 years ago. I ended up buying a brand new set of 36 DRLA dellortto carbs. They came from CB performance with the correct jetting. I am still running these carbs today on my 2276 sand car. I have put them on almost every engine I have owned because they work great. 1600dp, 1776, 2liter ,2110, 2276. WITHOUT CHANGING JETS. Just bolt them on and adjust the linkage and enjoy until you get a clogged jet. Then I cry because it is always a PITA to troubleshoot and it will always happen at the worst time. If I lost everything I owned and had to start over I would buy these in size 36 carcraftstore.com/newduald-seriescarbs.aspx I have not personally bought these yet or know anyone else who has but this is what I would choose. Sounds like they fixed all the problems I had with my old carbs that I am still running now. I wish you the very best luck on your adventure. You will be an expert in no time and have the confidence to drive anywhere anytime.
TheEZGZ Thanks so much for the Great response GZ. I knew you were the right person to ask! Do you recommend using a electric fuel pump or sticking with the factory mechanical pump? Also what fuel pressure regulator do you like for the dual carbs and what pressure do you run yours at?
Nothing wrong with the stock pump but I have been having problems on the new replacement pumps and some vapor lock issues with this new crummy gas. All 4 of my current VW cars now have electric low pressure fuel pumps on them. Since I drive hard and in the ruff I like my fuel pressure around 2.5 PSI to avoid spill over. Your new carbs might come with a book and some recommendations. I would follow them.
Hi EZGZ. I have been looking at all your videos on vw related builds. Ive been thinking of using a 40mm del orto side draught carb on a 1600 dual port motor. It has a custom manifold built for it. Recently rebuilt. Would like too get your opinion on it.
I don't have experience with that model carb but I can tell you that it is to big for a 1600 engine that is used for daily year around driving. Fuel economy will be horrible. On the flip side it might be fun to tinker with and it will sure be something fun to confuse VW friends.
The problem is not the jets. It is the venturi size. You will be able to get it to idle and run wide open throttle but nothing in between. You will need a good distributor to make it work as well. All that being said: You know you want it so get it. It's not life and death and you will learn from your experience. Let me know how it goes.
I tried both and when I got it running better the MPG was in the toilet big time. I need heat in the manifold at my altitude especially. Thanks for your help and advice.
TheEZGZ - To keep the manifold warm and cozy... Did anybody tried "heat wrap". Commonly used on exhaust pipes, etc. Suddenly it seems a simple and cheap way to keep the heat from the "heat riser" here it should be. Note I never tried it, but I´m curious if anybody did it and what where the results. Cheers
Yes, Not really worth it unless your single port is in top shape. You also going to have to get different Head studs. A lot of folks claim that the single port makes more torque at the low RPM range. When VW did it they also changed the oil cooler and added a wider cooling fan and bigger oil pump. Any way you look at it will cost a lot of money
![🎤 ไปกันต่อออ! จับฉลากร้องเพลง x P’ #XXSIVK [EP.2] (1/2) เพลงของใครจึ้งสุดน้าา 💓🎤 #MXFRUIT](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mLI_K0sAS4o/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm in east tn. Here everyone with a woods buggy is running big bore 1600s to strokers with duals. I've recently acquired an old rail that's been sitting 17yrs in a shed. It's an 1835 with a DPR cw balanced crankshaft and rotating assembly. It had 36 mm dellortos but I've removed them and going to a single 40 mm dellorto. It'll be a good month or so before I can get it cleaned up re wired etc and see how it does. Reason for swapping to a single is exactly what you said. My buddy has a 2276 with dual 44 webers on his rail and the breathers and carbs get 100 percent soaked in mud. Idk about sand type terrain but I personally wouldn't run duals on any off road type terrain especially in a rail. PS, for those that haven't personally rans duals, they are absolutely an upgrade as apposed to a single. I personally have ran single dellortos in woods buggys in the past with excellent results as long as you can keep trash out of the jets
www.cbperformance.com/product-p/7348.htm
Hey EZGZ, I've watched a few of your videos and realized you got a lot of knowledge crammed between your ears, this video confirms the direction I'm going with my build. I'm a little rusty at working on vdubs , haven't had one since the 70s and just gave my wife one for her birthday since we met when her 68 wouldn't start and I had 2, a 65 and a 67 and got hers running. That was 47 years ago and just wanted to go back and relive some memories. I rebuilt my engines to stock and they ran ok for a bug but I went to the drags and this guy had a bug that was beating everything it was going against and was going against a crowd favorite at the time Brutus GTO and was ahead till he broke an axle, I built my bug motors after that and never looked back. My bugs weren't as crazy as the bug at the drags but good enough to beat my share of camaros, mustangs, chevelles,etc. My initial mistake was only running 4 dowels on my crank. 1st time I ripped the flywheel off I thought I didn't tighten enough and had to replace crankshaft, within a week it did it again. I went to this old German mechanic with a German accent and asked what I was doing wrong and he laughed and showed me his jig to drill the 4extra holes in the crank and let me use his jig and sold me 8 oversized dowels that were like. 005 over and to put them in freezer till I was going to install and never had a problem after that. He even told me to to adjust lifters initially cold to spec and then take car out and get to operating temperature and bring in quick while still hot and tighten rockers and then back off till pushrods could be spun. Did with fingers like he said but was painful so I took a clothes line clip and modified to spin pushrods. I had the quietest valve train around. I've got a question about your engines, what's up with sparkplug in breather tube 🤔 and will give you a holler when complete, good video 😁
Cool story. The spark plug just happened to fit in that hose to block it off since I don't run it to my air cleaners but I like the bottom dump to relieve crankcase pressure.
If you have the money go with a new aluminum engine block. Make it a 2 liter stroker. 78 x 90.5 With stock valve heads a real mild cam like Engel 100 dual carbs. VERY RELIABLE combo with plenty of power and you can keep the stock heater boxes. Just MHO
Awesome - I have a couple factory Solex dual carb set-ups I've been wanting to try on the wife's car.My car has a Progressive - I love. Runs very well.
They are hard to set up but work well if you get it right
Thanks , for the heads up on this video. Excellent information, I wasn’t watching 4 years ago, that Weber book sounds like a good investment. Thanks EZ.
Glad it was helpful!
As always, I appreciate your videos EZGZ. Thanks for sharing! I was short on time today, so I watched this one at 2x speed. Hahaha, that was fun.
Thank you! Thank you! LOL
Very practical advice on drive ability at the end. Thanks. 😊
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@TheEZGZ If ever you want to expand d your horizons... I had planned to convert my 1600 to a 2bl propane carb, you can actually burn propane or propylene instead of propane. Check it out, it was banned for racing. Of course it will work with a turbo too!
Cheers 🍻
great info my friend! trial and error on all carbs and engines to find the sweet spot is how i do all my work!
i like the 120 cams on vw engines!
Thanks, It made for a long frustrating day while dealing with a new camera that I just got. That 120 is a little much for me. I must be getting old and crotchety. :-)
Great video, lots to digest. I'm liking the research that you are doing. Keep them rolling. PS, car show and drags great yesterday but video camera puked on me, friend is try to recover video. VW:)
What's up with camer's. Mine puked as well. Except I tipped over the tripod with the camera on it one to many times. Getting used to this new camera and it is different in many ways.
i hhad that double barrel progressive carb on my 1600dp, w freeway flyer, folks said they had a flat spot, i never had an issue i loved it, an you could feel it o er stock
I wish I would have known you then we would have both had fun.
just for anyone waffling like i was the cb performance over the top linkage is great! in my opinion on a buggy you can tap 1/8" npt the end of the cable housing use 1/8npt to compression fitting and continue line to pedal!
Great Idea !!! Thanks for sharing that tip :-)
My Dellorto was idling on the first progression hole, so instead of drilling the butterflies, I used torx butterfly mounting bolts, drilled with a 1millimetre hole drilled through.
Thanks for your help, it keeps me thinking.
I love Tim, What great idea....
Love the videos,what an unbelievable amount of knowledge thanks for sharing.Brenton. Australia.
Yeah, good knowledge but I can't always find it when I need it. LOL old age sucks
Great informative video and thank you for doing this. My type 3 square is a dog and I hope new carbs can help. But unfortunately my choices are slim. Thanks for the video.
Check these out! carcraftstore.com/newduald-seriescarbs.aspx
Nothing the matter with stock Dual carb set up though....
Some good explanation and points to pay attention to. But you forgot to add the part that it just looks cool up there too...ha ha
yup, lol
You the man buddy thank you for all the great videos 👍👍
Hey EZGZ, I have a 1776 with centre mount DRL40. The jets etc are all the same as yours and even had 28mm venturis. It drove very well at anything above idle and pulled really hard through the gears but would stumble when accelerating from idle, particularly when warm. This was due to the carb getting very cold and fuel dropping out of suspension. The aftermarket exhaust has heat risers that don't work, not because they're blocked (it's brand new) but because they're not designed properly. One side should suck while the other blows. I popped 26mm venturis into it and the difference was astounding. Just that little extra vacuum improves the fuel atomisation. A vestige of a stumble is still there when warm but I feel an original muffler with proper heat risers will fix that.
On another tack, I'm not sure your reasoning is correct when explaining the larger hole in the butterfly of the solex carb. It can't be because it's feeding 4 cylinders instead of two because the cylinders don't all breathe in at the same time. They all take turns, so the hole is satisfying one pot at a time.
Good video, mate!
whats missing on these set ups is adequate manifold heat. all center mounted carbs have got to have a hot manifold beneath the carb.
WHAT INTAKE DO YOU HAVE UNDER THAT CARB,,I HAVE THAT WEBER KIT FOR VW, AND I HAVE THAT MOUNT DOWN BELOW,IT SEEMS TO THROW THINGS OFF,
"you don't want to wear out or bend your shaft" Yeah, no kidding! I keep telling my wife that, she don't wanna listen!
it's all about lubrication....!
Gr8 vid, sir. Thanks for sharing.
All super cool info thanks man!!
I couldn't find the info so thought I would share what i learned
Thanks for the videos!
You need to do an o2 tune. Great work tho
02 is good stuff for sure but my altitude might change by 5k feet in a single ride. Carbs are a compromise at best.
@@TheEZGZ thank for the reply. Forgot all about your situation. But an afr would allow you to pick a middle of the road jet. 🤔 anyway Mr ezgz I am wishing a very merry Christmas and a Happy NewYear. I also wish great health and wealth (in that order) and this is coming from Larry Lopez from the great state of Texas take care
Do all the two barrel Webers and Dellortos have the same base mounting pattern? I'd like to build a Type-III setup with reversed dual-port end-castings, and a center mount sidedraft, maybe using a modified center section like yours.
yes, They are all the same. A spin off from the 48 IDA Weber
@@TheEZGZ Thanks. Otherwise, it should be all the same information except for laying down on its side.
EZGZ what bypass do you recommend .. I noticed what you just said I have a center mount and Tryin to get dialed .. you’re right it don’t squirt right off..
It's called a zero bypass valve. It's the brass screw in the bottom of the float bowl that has ball in it. Any place that sells weber parts should carry it. Heat that manifold and good luck
Air Correction Jet: 1.60
Emulsion Tube: F-11
Main Jet: 1.45 (drilled)
Pump Jet: .50 (uses .0 bypass)
Idle Jet: .65
Venturi: 28mm
Zero Bypass check valve
@@TheEZGZ guys down here in so ca were telling me f7 emulsion for the center mounts but I ain’t going to do more until my heater manifold is hooked up.
I am having trouble finding linkage to attach the factor accelerator cable to this carburetor set up like the one you have used here. If you have made a video on this subject please let me know, like wise if anyone else has seen a tutorial on this please point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance.
It's always a nightmare if you have to peace together your own linkage. Check this out. www.cbperformance.com/product-p/3122.htm
great video and info EZGZ, at this moment i have had a nightmare trying to tune a single weber 40 idf 28mm venturies on a 1776 motor, bigger valves and 1:25 ratio rockers, i couldn´t idle it well, so i ended drilling holes in the plates, at this moment each hole is 3mm diameter, and still looks to need a little more because to have it turned on i need to open more than a half turn the throttle speed screw, and at this point it has a stumble when leaving idle to transition, do you think is it ok to open more the holes in the throttle plates? or do i need to check or try something different, i´m running msd ingnition dizzy with 6al box, timing is reaching 32 grades when accelerating, and other question, what gap do i need on spark plugs when running MSD ignition? thanks in advance
No. Not yet I have learned a lot since I made this video.
You need a zero bypass valve (the brass check valve in the bottom of the float bowl)
WEBER 40 IDF Factory
Sizes Single
Carb
AIR CORRECTION 1.60
EMULSION TUBE F-11
MAIN JET 1.45
PUMP JET .50 .
IDLE JET .65 .
VENTURII 28mm
NOTE: Drill 2mm Hole in each Throttle Valve for Single Carb setup.
.0 Bypass
@@TheEZGZ thanks, i have been reading on forums, and i found that the manifold diameter i´m using is bigger than a normal manifold, so i assume that´s why for idle my carburator is needing more air, i will try to sleeve my manifold and see what happen, and thanks i also will try zero bypass valve to solve stumble when in transition
I would be more concerned about heat than size. Let me know how things turn out for you my friend.
@@TheEZGZ Hi EZ, i sleeved the manifold to make it smaller diameter, it feels better when tuning idle, throttle velocity screw is almost out just 1/2 turn from touching, holes in throttle plates are 3mm each, but I still have hesitation in transition, I´m going to try zero bypass valve, thanks for the help
I have a 1915cc on my bay window bus & I went from dual Kadrons to a single large Weber & I lost a lot of power. Is that normal or to be expected? Does a single carb setup get better fuel economy? Thanks
VERY common if you don't heat the intake manifold with something as good as stock muffler set up. Even in a Bus engine compartment I'll bet if you put your hand below the carb it's Cold, Wet and or ice. That means your running LEAN and using more gas to do it. Liquid gas does not burn. I hope you can go back to those Kadrons and then you can complain about linkage and clogged idle jets. Sorry for your pain.
I have a single Nikki carb but have not tried it yet.
I thought those were for small engines? Really though, carb principals are basically universal
what's the best single carb for a standard 1600? I'm running a Solex 34, and It's really slow when i drove it on the hill or even highways. or maybe I should refurbish my carb?
That stock 34 pic-3 is hard to beat on a totally stock engine. It's hard for me to advise you about an old car with many miles. Get a book and make sure everything is in tune. Make sure your timing is correct and advance is working. New plugs and wires etc.
Hey EZGZ, I've been watching your videos.... you really know your stuff. I'm new to VW's, I have a signal Weber IDF carb set up. My engine was running fine but I wanted to try and smooth it out at bit so I tried to tune the carb by do the procedure I found online on Redline.com....... I really messed it up! hahaha I need help. I know the air bypass screws were open a bit but after turning from the instructions they are not now.....
I feel your pain. "Heat the manifold". 7 Mary's 7 Our Fathers and $20 in the poor box please. :-)
Heat the manifold? Should the air bypass screws be open at all?
how many miles per gallos you get with that carb , i m thinking to put a bigger carb, i m bug but i m going to rebuilt the engine and put a cam and maybe 74 mm crank but dont know what type of carb i want to used ,so what can you advise me , i dont want to get 15 miles to a gallon
If you run a single carb without heating the intake manifold your mileage will be in the mid teens most of the time. Dual carbs are the only way to go and if set up correctly will get over 20mpg
I have taken some long trips 2k to 3k miles and averaged 25 MPG with dual two barrel carbs
Hey Brother how's it going just an update everything seems to be running good but when I am at Full Throttle after a couple seconds it seems like it loses power I'm aiming towards the regular fuel filters but I was wondering is there a fuel filter in the carburetor itself somewhere under the banjo if so could you show me so I don't have to take it apart again
Thats where it is under the banjo. Also check your fuel pressure 2 1/2 to 3 psi should be good for a street car
Cool, thx. My friend is planning to run a similar set up on a 1776cc. Any advice?
If it has a performance cam it will always have that stumble leaving a stop. The bigger the engine the better it works.
Wonder about over all fuel millage
I'm hoping it will stay the same but I have to put a few tanks threw it to be sure. You had also mentioned engine temp and that is something important on a air cooled. I know I'm not telling you anything Terry. You could write a book. You do amazing things at your place.:-)
Hi EZGZ,
I was wondering what dual carburetor set up you would recommend for a beginner on a 1600 dual port engine? I have alot of mechanical knowledge and ability just wanted to get your opinion on what would be best for a car that will be driven alot and be the easiest to maintain while still getting good power and reliability. Thanks!
We are all beginners my friend. Don't be afraid, Don't buy someones used junk in a bucket.
I was a beginner ounce too. I was hanging around a lot of sand junkies and folks with VW engines. I looked and listened and asked questions. I listened to the people who had good running cars and asked if they would give me a ride. That was 25 years ago. I ended up buying a brand new set of 36 DRLA dellortto carbs. They came from CB performance with the correct jetting. I am still running these carbs today on my 2276 sand car. I have put them on almost every engine I have owned because they work great. 1600dp, 1776, 2liter ,2110, 2276. WITHOUT CHANGING JETS. Just bolt them on and adjust the linkage and enjoy until you get a clogged jet. Then I cry because it is always a PITA to troubleshoot and it will always happen at the worst time. If I lost everything I owned and had to start over I would buy these in size 36 carcraftstore.com/newduald-seriescarbs.aspx I have not personally bought these yet or know anyone else who has but this is what I would choose. Sounds like they fixed all the problems I had with my old carbs that I am still running now. I wish you the very best luck on your adventure. You will be an expert in no time and have the confidence to drive anywhere anytime.
www.aircooled.net/vw-parts-cat/vw-carburetor-tech/
TheEZGZ
Thanks so much for the Great response GZ. I knew you were the right person to ask! Do you recommend using a electric fuel pump or sticking with the factory mechanical pump? Also what fuel pressure regulator do you like for the dual carbs and what pressure do you run yours at?
Nothing wrong with the stock pump but I have been having problems on the new replacement pumps and some vapor lock issues with this new crummy gas. All 4 of my current VW cars now have electric low pressure fuel pumps on them. Since I drive hard and in the ruff I like my fuel pressure around 2.5 PSI to avoid spill over. Your new carbs might come with a book and some recommendations. I would follow them.
Hi EZGZ. I have been looking at all your videos on vw related builds. Ive been thinking of using a 40mm del orto side draught carb on a 1600 dual port motor. It has a custom manifold built for it. Recently rebuilt. Would like too get your opinion on it.
I don't have experience with that model carb but I can tell you that it is to big for a 1600 engine that is used for daily year around driving. Fuel economy will be horrible. On the flip side it might be fun to tinker with and it will sure be something fun to confuse VW friends.
@@TheEZGZ if i rejet the carb with smaller jets it "might" help?
The problem is not the jets. It is the venturi size. You will be able to get it to idle and run wide open throttle but nothing in between. You will need a good distributor to make it work as well. All that being said: You know you want it so get it. It's not life and death and you will learn from your experience. Let me know how it goes.
@@TheEZGZ its my 1st try. Hopefully i can get it running smooth. Lets see how it works trail and error.
Good Luck with your project and please let me know your results. Win or Loose. Don't get your hopes up
try f7 emulsions and richer main jets, you'll be pleasantly surprised!
tried that. It didn't seem to work that well at 5,ooo ft above sea level and the MPG never was over 19
what was your set up?
+TheEZGZ did you try a vac advance distributor? I'd say an SVDA dizzy and f7 emulsions are the two essentials.
I tried both and when I got it running better the MPG was in the toilet big time. I need heat in the manifold at my altitude especially. Thanks for your help and advice.
TheEZGZ - To keep the manifold warm and cozy... Did anybody tried "heat wrap". Commonly used on exhaust pipes, etc.
Suddenly it seems a simple and cheap way to keep the heat from the "heat riser" here it should be.
Note I never tried it, but I´m curious if anybody did it and what where the results.
Cheers
What engine size is that? What altitude are you at?
1800cc 74X88 5280 ft. Denver Mile High
Can I convert single port engine to a dual port?
Yes, Not really worth it unless your single port is in top shape. You also going to have to get different Head studs. A lot of folks claim that the single port makes more torque at the low RPM range. When VW did it they also changed the oil cooler and added a wider cooling fan and bigger oil pump. Any way you look at it will cost a lot of money