Air Cooled VW IDF Cleaning and Bench Set
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2019
- This video will take you through the process of disassembling a new Weber carburetor, cleaning it and reassembling. Please Like, Comment and subscribe.
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We didn't show cleaning the carb top or the jets before putting them back in. Sorry, we didn't film that part. Just spray them off with carb cleaner and blow them out with compressed air. Especially the idle jets. Those things are tiny and it does not take much to clog on!
Do they sell the jets separately?
Thanks for posting this. I have the same carb and it needs to be rebuilt. You provided very derailed description giving me the confidence to take this on😀
I bought my last set of Webers that were redline. Very nice!!
Thanks for positing this! Very informative !
Rick knows his stuff when it comes to cleaning/rebuilding carbs If you have ever seen his work you would agree with me for sure.
Just replaced all the gaskets and diaphragm on my IDFs on my Alfa Sprint . Never done it before but your video was vey useful thanks . Set the floats to what you recommend too
Very informative for cleaning idf carbs
That's how should be. Nice & clear. Thank You
Really good info! Thanks!
I've been having a lot of trouble with my carbs on my boom motorcycle (has empi carbs). Main jets keep plugging up so this will help me a lot, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for good video!
Good info.
what about drilling a hole in each valve for the single carb setup.
I am in the process of rebuilding some EMPIs and I was wondering if the settings for the bowl would be any different for mine versus what you discussed in the video for the legit Webers.
nice!
Old feller taught me many years ago use original chapstick on all carb gaskets and they never stick
good information for those using webers! #nochinacopies
Can I set my colones up this way. I have a set of 40 idfs forms cip1 and I have found that you can’t set them like you would a Webber. Also where can I get a jet kit. I am running to rich at idle and stumbles when you put it at full throttle. They are on a 1914.
In my opinion I think that's a bad example if you're going that far to have the carburetor off not to thoroughly go through it as in removing all the plugs the fuel mixture screws the bypass screws etc, and completely disassembling the Jets and blowing through every single hole and passage, I do get that those carbs were clean to begin with but it doesn't take but a very tiny piece of any dirt to be left in any of the passages that could require removing the carbs to clean them out, if you're going to go through the carbs, go through it completely, it just makes sense.
Well put.. Ive heard of a lot of these carb problems are the low speed circuit. I've surfed the net hoping to find a good video of a thorough cleaning of the carb body and well/ports. What is the most effective way to clean these areas aside from carb cleaner and lp air? Where does the port/well end up once the low speed jet has been removed? Can it be chased with a small wire to ensure it is clear?
Respectfully
Thank you!
@@09roushsupercharged26 I myself have thought about making a video about properly rebuilding the IDF or the drla carb, like you had mentioned there is not a video that shows the complete disassembly and proper cleaning and reassembly and all the pre adjustmentd needed to do a proper rebuild, I do have an advantage due to the fact I have an ultrasonic cleaner and a soda blaster and have access to a vapor blaster if needed but the home mechanic can do a good job with carb spray, compressed air, and a good gasket set and the knowledge to properly go through it and what to look for, I may just have to make that video, I have done hundreds of rebuilds, with close to almost 30 years have experience with these dual carbs, and I'm still doing them today.
. Any and all info you may share will be greatly appreciated by all. Thank you in advance!
This video is about cleaning and bench setting brand new Redline Weber carbs. It has nothing to do with removing or rebuilding them. We are simply calling out that you can't pull them out of the box and throw them on the car. We try to show things that the average home mechanic can do and most people do not have an ultrasonic cleaner, a soda blaster and an assortment of parts and jets to choose from. Again, this is not about rebuild, simply cleaning a brand new set of carbs which are 2 very different things.
Do these carbs come already tunef
Fully Open what wrench can we use to get 23mm? U said fully close is 12mm wrench.
That's for cleaning clones as well right? Thanks
howdy any ideas what accelerator nut should be adjusted too? i have stock 1600 ,40 idf running 55s and has slight stumble
Need to reduce Venturi to 28mm to improve flat spot
@@1catbrains motor is currently apart ,I'm gonna rebuild wen I get cash and might go with dual carbs
GREAT VIDEO!!! What a SHAME, that the CUSTOMER should be responsible for CLEANING and ADJUSTING a BRAND NEW carb!! And believe me when I say that I realize that it is necessary!!
With as much as these things cost, it is a shame they are not clean when you get them.
What does IDF stand for please ? I've heard different things.
There is plate on other side with 2 screws and I noticed I have jets there u don't have...why?
What does the bypass valve in the bottom of the bowl do? I can't get mine out and its running terrible at light throttle. I have thoroughly cleaned the rest with no improvement. Could this be the problem?
Bypass valve lets fuel not used in pump jets back to bowl. if you run a single weber centermount, you'll usually get a stumble during acceleration, try running a .000 bypass valve, this allows for all gas coming from acceleration pump to go to the pump jets instead of letting some back in the carb bowl
Nice video, but why would you have to clean out a new set of Weber especially from Redline I know there a little pricey compared to the copies out there but shouldn't they already be cleaned and set and ready to go for being new?
Even new carbs direct from Redline are dirty inside. The test run them and do not clean them out. You should always clean them before running them.
I find the easiest way to set the float level is to use the head of a 11-12 mm bolt
That is a great idea. Thanks for sharing!
On a similar note. You can make metric Allen wrenches from bolts too. I made a transmission plug wrench from a body bolt over 40years ago. Still using it to this day. Just weld the appropriate bolt to whatever you want
You said “ bench set”.
Set at what?
Is the customer going to jet them to his motor?
Do they come with a 0 by pass value or some thing different?
I have Italian 44 IDF Weber’s on my 2276 sand rail,and I’m always interested in info on these Carbs.
The customer will be jetting and doing a final tune on the carbs himself. However, we set them at what should be a reasonable starting point. From the factory, the single carb setups come with a 0 by pass valve, but the dual sets don't. In my experience, you don't need to change the valve in a dual carb setup. Weber has told me otherwise, but I feel like they recommend jetting that is quite rich and using a 0 in the bowel is just another example of that.
Redline and Pierce Manifold have told me the same about the bypass value , 0 is recommended.
I’ve used both and different sizes.
I think my motor runs better with the 50 size bypass value. The pump jets, I like the smaller one for a longer stream then the bigger one with the short stream.
Enjoy your videos.
por que los subtítulos en ESPAÑOL NO SE MUESTRAN ???
Bolt them on, that's why they sell fuel filters. You will have more problems from the open fuel line when the engine is out than the New carbs. Jets will need to be swapped for each application.
Fuel filter does not help when the fuel inside the carb is dirty. Idle jets are very small and plug easily, so a dirty bowel will cause problems.
@@VintageVolks Because new Carbs are filthy why would anyone run them....
@@doginu Used carbs in good condition are a great option if you can find them. If not, then clean your new carbs before you run them. That is the whole point behind this video. It was not intended to be a debate on new vs used.
Noticed you guys haven't produced any vids in many months.
We have been busy over the summer but are getting back into the shop now. We will be shooting the Hoover Mods Stock Rocker Arm video soon.
Where is the cleaning of the Idle circuits? The major problems on these carbs.... blocked idle jet circuits!
Lol eye goggles... opposed to feet goggles?
Why do I get a warning your site is not secure?
We're having a problem with the SSL certificate. Our vendor is working on it. Hopefully in the next day or 2 they will have it fixed.
Please. Don't breath carburetor cleaner vapors. Permanent lung damage will result.