Nice videos - old guy here who remembers when the e30 was introduced. I worked at a foreign car specialist while in college and remember being under these changing the oil when they were still new and not leaking😉 Years later, I still drive an e30! Mine is an '89 convertible and it's getting ready for its annual summer vacation down the Pacific coast highway. Cheers, and thanks for the excellent videos!
I think you're one of my favourite car channels. Great music, nice pacing and not inflating content, nice camerawork and great editing with explanation and timelapses. Most importantly though, you make cars seem a lot more approachable, especially complex stuff like pulling a transmission! All the best, I really hope your channel explodes! Oh, also, how do you know how far to drive the new bearings in?
Thank you! It means a lot to hear that. I only drove in new seals in this video - no bearings. Some seals are driven in until they stop against a backing surface leaving no room for adjustment. Others seals do allow you to drive them in at different depths (the rear main seal, in the case of this BMW). I first take a look at the surface that the seal rides against (in this case, the engine's crankshaft). If there is a ridge in the surface that can't be cleaned away with a scotch brite pad, then I know the seal needs to be driven in to different depth than the one that was removed. The crankshaft didn't have a groove, so I drove the seal back to same approximate location as the old one.
You are a smart man, I'm a back yard mechanic and I love how you describe everything your doing and something as simple as grinding pvc to fit that seal to make install easier is nothing short of brilliant.
Thanks for the reply and helpful information. One more question. My 170,000 mile clutch still working but the transmission is leaky. Do you think that it is possible to replace output shaft seal and gear selector seal when the transmission is still in place? I am following along your E30 series!
@@poching0521 Yep, you can change both those seals with the transmission installed. Space will be a little tight for the selector seal, but I've seen pictures of people doing it successfully. A note I'll make about replacing the output shaft seal: From the factory, the output shaft flange was installed with an anaerobic sealer on the splines which effectively acts as superglue holding the flange to the output shaft. Mine had obviously been pulled before and the sealer was not there. So, worst case scenario, be prepared to battle with a difficult to remove flange. Grab yourself a puller set to have on hand just in case that sealant is still there: www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/pullers/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-62620.html Also, when reinstalling the flange, be sure to put some sealant (anaerobic flange sealant or similar) back on the splines as this can be a source of a leak!
Hi good morning! I’m working on my 1988 BMW E 30 I’m doing the same job as you did . Replacing the manual transmission output shaft seal but I’m having a hard time getting the nut off. How did you get it off? I also have an Snap on impact gun ...still no luck.Please help and thank you
I have a 91 318is that has a ton of leakage. Thinking its the RMS, but now not sure since watching your vids. Where did you get your seals from? Are you going to change the valve cover seals since you found them to be leaking more than the RMS?
What sealant did you use on the flange that holds the input seal. Did u use the expensive stuff that’s hard to get as per Bentley or did u find substitute? Overall I really like your videos but sometimes you skim over the ‘harder’ details. Selection of sealants, for me, is one of those harder details because you have hundreds of products to choose from.
John M I couldn't agree more. I love watching his videos but he should really start mentioning what sealants or thread lockers he is using as well as torque specs. Not many of us have a bently manual which brought us here to TH-cam to search how to tackle this.
Mine just slid right off. No force required. I've heard that they can be stuck because of the sealant used on the splines and the only way to overcome that is with heat. Look into a mapp gas torch.
Nice videos - old guy here who remembers when the e30 was introduced. I worked at a foreign car specialist while in college and remember being under these changing the oil when they were still new and not leaking😉
Years later, I still drive an e30! Mine is an '89 convertible and it's getting ready for its annual summer vacation down the Pacific coast highway.
Cheers, and thanks for the excellent videos!
I think you're one of my favourite car channels. Great music, nice pacing and not inflating content, nice camerawork and great editing with explanation and timelapses. Most importantly though, you make cars seem a lot more approachable, especially complex stuff like pulling a transmission!
All the best, I really hope your channel explodes!
Oh, also, how do you know how far to drive the new bearings in?
Thank you! It means a lot to hear that.
I only drove in new seals in this video - no bearings. Some seals are driven in until they stop against a backing surface leaving no room for adjustment. Others seals do allow you to drive them in at different depths (the rear main seal, in the case of this BMW). I first take a look at the surface that the seal rides against (in this case, the engine's crankshaft). If there is a ridge in the surface that can't be cleaned away with a scotch brite pad, then I know the seal needs to be driven in to different depth than the one that was removed. The crankshaft didn't have a groove, so I drove the seal back to same approximate location as the old one.
rich_27 Very well said. My thoughts exactly.
I agree too. Great channel, I could do without the music though.
You are a smart man, I'm a back yard mechanic and I love how you describe everything your doing and something as simple as grinding pvc to fit that seal to make install easier is nothing short of brilliant.
Keep it going, awesome inspiration.. all things I want to do to my e30
great channel brah, i enjoy the perspective of an engineer
Hi do you know the part number of getrag 260 input shaft bearing?
Where did you get all your knowledge, and abilities to tackle these land mine problems?
did your oil pan leak where you resealed it with the RMS cover plate? trying to order sealants now. thanks!
Awesome thanks for videos I have 1988 e30 touring and is in much worst condition
What did you torque the output flange to Bentley says it is a 2 step process
dude... Thank You
Thanks for the awesome video! Could provide the list of part numbers? I am trying to reseal my E30 transmission as well.
I'll try and get those posted up in the description soon. Keep an eye out!
Thanks for the reply and helpful information. One more question. My 170,000 mile clutch still working but the transmission is leaky. Do you think that it is possible to replace output shaft seal and gear selector seal when the transmission is still in place? I am following along your E30 series!
@@poching0521 Yep, you can change both those seals with the transmission installed. Space will be a little tight for the selector seal, but I've seen pictures of people doing it successfully.
A note I'll make about replacing the output shaft seal: From the factory, the output shaft flange was installed with an anaerobic sealer on the splines which effectively acts as superglue holding the flange to the output shaft. Mine had obviously been pulled before and the sealer was not there. So, worst case scenario, be prepared to battle with a difficult to remove flange. Grab yourself a puller set to have on hand just in case that sealant is still there: www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/pullers/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-62620.html
Also, when reinstalling the flange, be sure to put some sealant (anaerobic flange sealant or similar) back on the splines as this can be a source of a leak!
I appreciate your advises!
Music at 1:15 is pure funky
@3:59, that was the input shaft bearing right? Is there a way to pull that out or would the bellhousing need to come apart to get to it?
Yep, that's input shaft bearing. I don't think there's a way to remove it without splitting the cases.
Would you recommend this car for a person who is a beginner with fixing up cars
Hi good morning! I’m working on my 1988 BMW E 30 I’m doing the same job as you did . Replacing the manual transmission output shaft seal but I’m having a hard time getting the nut off. How did you get it off? I also have an Snap on impact gun ...still no luck.Please help and thank you
What’s the exact part number for your input shaft seal ... I have the exact same one and can’t find any info on it
You really should have changed the oil pan gasket since the rear main seal carrier was removed. Really cutting corners there. It WILL leak.
what sealant did you use that was blue??
I have a 91 318is that has a ton of leakage. Thinking its the RMS, but now not sure since watching your vids. Where did you get your seals from? Are you going to change the valve cover seals since you found them to be leaking more than the RMS?
Love the videos, thanks! Whats the torque on the input shaft seal bolts? Is there a good reference you use for torque specs?
I don't recall off the top of my head but I got all torque specs from the Bentley E30 service manual. It's a great resource.
What sealant did you use on the flange that holds the input seal. Did u use the expensive stuff that’s hard to get as per Bentley or did u find substitute? Overall I really like your videos but sometimes you skim over the ‘harder’ details. Selection of sealants, for me, is one of those harder details because you have hundreds of products to choose from.
John M I couldn't agree more. I love watching his videos but he should really start mentioning what sealants or thread lockers he is using as well as torque specs. Not many of us have a bently manual which brought us here to TH-cam to search how to tackle this.
I hope you taped off the vent when power washing it. : )
So how did that hylomar blue sealant hold up for the input shaft?
It worked great!
First video of yours I seen def won’t be the last
How did you pull the flange off
Mine just slid right off. No force required. I've heard that they can be stuck because of the sealant used on the splines and the only way to overcome that is with heat. Look into a mapp gas torch.
Tips on getting the selector joint seal out ?
A really small flat blade screw driver under the lip of the seal. You can pry it out that way.