I put Anti-Seize on everything I take off. Bought a brand new truck five years ago and the first week I had it I removed every exhaust flange bolt and lubed them up.
Be careful when using anti-sneeze on O2 sensors. You can risk ruining the sensor if you use too much or get it at the exhaust inlet ports, and some sensors are grounded via the exhaust and the never-sneeze can create a higher resistance.
Some O2 sensors already come with anti-seize all over it but yes you can add more I suggest you get the copper kind because it's designed for hotter temperature.
I have some old school kopper kote my dad gave me. He used it in Cali as a pipe fitter in the refinery. Also got all his brass tools. Kinda cool to have.
Not regular anti-seize! Constant heating and cooling will leak it down onto the sensor element and burn out a new sensor. You're supposed to use the special glass bead anti-seize that comes with the new O2 sensors
Absolutely. Never use your own, only what they supply with the new sensor. These things get so hot, all of the hydrocarbons in the antiseize are burned off within a few cycles anyway, and they may damage the sensor. Only the glass beads remain.
Turn the Vehicle on until it gets to Operating Temperature then Remove the O2 sensor.. Just because you have tools doesn’t mean you know how to use them..
A week before I plan on changing O2 sensors I spray with PB Blaster everyday in the morning and at night. The heating and cooling down process works away all the rust and they come off like butter
That's why you use an acetylene torch to heat it up first and then try to break it free. I had an O2 sensor on my Ram 1500 that was rust welded. I took a torch to it and it broke free.
If they're REALLY stuck, a trick I've done that's never failed is to put a worm gear style hose clamp around the O2 sensor socket to keep it from spreading under too much force. That combined with a healthy dose of what's called Mouse Milk lets you get even the worst ones out. Also copper anti-seize rather than the normal silver colored stuff is what you want for exhaust parts & hardware (looks like you use copper but I couldn't tell for sure on my screen).
Heat it and rub a wax candle around the threads. Had a rounded 02 sensor on my 04 Silverado that I could not for the life of me get off. That was the only things that worked.
No, absolutely not. You can use some anti seize on the outer threads but candle wax will melt and go the only way it can go, into the exhaust where it will hit the sensor and fuck it up for good. Candle wax is not anti seize, anti seize is aluminium or copper paste depending on what you are using it on.
Quick tip especially on Toyota sensors. If you get a sensor that is really stuck or is starting to pull threads heat it up but not to long to the point of destroying the sensor and spray brake fluid on it. it will break the rust down fast. Also that car was running lean as fuck, a sensor is likely not the only problem.
Anti-seize isn't a solution to a 20+ year old oxygen sensor originally installed at the factory. Once you get it out you can use anti-seize with the replacement. If the vehicle is still around in another 20 years, the oxygen sensor will be easy to get out.
The best way to help your O2 sensors last longer is to run Chevron fuel injector cleaner every other tank full of gas..I've been running my O2 sensors for 8 years now
My O2 sensors were so stuck, I pulled all threads off. Torching, oiling didn't help at all. Luckily it was sensor threads that got pulled, so I tapped threads again and got new sensors in.
LOL, this will be good, what is your explanation? you really SHOULD use dielectric grease on the connector. I'm going to assume you are thinking about how vulcanised rubber reacts with dielectric grease but that isn't used in a high temperature environment anyway, it's just PVC.
@@JohnSmith-xu7ev We're talking about applying dielectric grease ON THE CONNECTOR, not on the sensor. Besides, dielectric grease does NOT contain silicone.
I put anti-seize on everything and maybe it works in the south where they don't use salt and don't get the freezing temperatures on the O2 sensors but they still seize in in the north even with it. Don't get me wrong though- I still use it. That and heat helps.
Last Oxy sensor I removed: cut harness off, wack it out with impact gun, chase threads, install new one with anti sieze and barely more than hand tight. Works perfect.(my own car)
Brake fluid bro! If she feels like she's galling. Put some brake fluid into threads and tighten back up. 5 min later it'll come out like a brand new car
Cleared the engine light and it didn't come back. Mustve fixed it. Not like it's still in open loop or anything. Thanks for the 150$ Mr customer. 'laayyytuuuuur'
@@FredJones122 soulsnatcher is probably right yeah It temporally fixed it.... cool you made 150 but a few months later they will be back for the same reason or the actual reason the 02 went bad in the first place gets worse and causes different problems. Hey it's fixed for now so you have no lesson to learn right.... never think you know everything because then you can't learn anything past that point but hey good luck let us know when customer comes back
One of my trucks i needed to use a jack to push on the wrench when doing my 02 sensors lol. Just did my 01 suburban and they came with antisieze on them
that's why you just hit it with a torch for a minute, and it comes right out. Everytime I have ever seen anti seize used on shit like that it dries out to rock hard and makes it harder to remove,
@@Alberthoward3right9up it was broken anyway. The special socket wouldn't have made any difference in that case. Install doesn't require much torque and is usually a lot easier than removal.
I didn't fight the one in my 85 S10 when it went bad but better to sensor was up underneath the hood when they exhaust manifold it wasn't underneath the truck where it can get access to salt in the winter so it came out a lot easier than that a whole lot easier
Be careful with the anti seize though, only on the outer threads because the smallest copper/aluminium particle on that sensor and it's fucked for good.
anti sieze aint gonna do shit after many heat cycles it will be cooked! so after 5+ years you go to replace it again and you will have the same problem
I ended up rounding the hex nut from fighting it so much and the socket started slipping. I used a 14" pipe wrench which can grip the rounded hex nut pretty well. I alternated between spraying rust penetrant, banging it with a sledge hammer, and pulling on the wrench and it finally came loose. Don't give up
Wasn’t even bad I took one out that was cross threaded with a 1/2 impact cut the wire right at the end of the sensor and threw a deep 7/8 uga duga that shit out and re tapped the threads
I love Anti-Seize!
Permatex Anti-Seize: amzn.to/3OW3a5T
Use this stuff!!
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That is the new formula.
Old formula contained lead which was far superior.
I put Anti-Seize on everything I take off. Bought a brand new truck five years ago and the first week I had it I removed every exhaust flange bolt and lubed them up.
The grey stuff is great. But the copper colored stuff is even better.
You never anti seize this stuff. You want to make sure the next guy takes out as much grief as you did what the heck.
Lol never! Because the next guy is going to be you doing it again!
Lmao only if you're selling the car 😂
That ain't stuck lol you haven't seen stuck yet
Laughs in salt belt 🤣
LOL I'm sitting here seeing the socket not even spread under the force and going "man that ain't bad...."
There's a rooster in there.
This reminds me of when I fart and then tell my 3 year old that there must be a duck in the house that keeps quacking.
I thought the very same!
The squeak is your friend
Looked for this comment
Callin geese over yonder haha
Be careful when using anti-sneeze on O2 sensors.
You can risk ruining the sensor if you use too much or get it at the exhaust inlet ports, and some sensors are grounded via the exhaust and the never-sneeze can create a higher resistance.
Anti seize is just oil with copper/nickel/aluminum shavings mixed in. It’s conductive.
Some O2 sensors already come with anti-seize all over it but yes you can add more I suggest you get the copper kind because it's designed for hotter temperature.
Yea! The copper anti-seize helps!
Yeah the cooper stuff works best especially for the hot 🔥 things . I've had exhaust bolts easily come right off after 5 Wisconsin ☃️ winters 🥶
I have some old school kopper kote my dad gave me. He used it in Cali as a pipe fitter in the refinery. Also got all his brass tools. Kinda cool to have.
@@MattsShop Nickel based is even a higher temp. 2,400 F
Not regular anti-seize! Constant heating and cooling will leak it down onto the sensor element and burn out a new sensor. You're supposed to use the special glass bead anti-seize that comes with the new O2 sensors
I'll look into that. Makes sense. Thanks for the tip as I need to do that
Absolutely. Never use your own, only what they supply with the new sensor. These things get so hot, all of the hydrocarbons in the antiseize are burned off within a few cycles anyway, and they may damage the sensor. Only the glass beads remain.
For good measure, put a hose clamp around the tip of the O2 socket. Keep that slot good and tight against the bolt sides of the sensor.
When I know I'm pulling them and not reinstalling ,I just cut the wires off and use a normal socket.
Wish I knew that. I ended up rounding the hex nut and had to use a pipe wrench to finally get it off
You've been battling because that is the worst socket ever made for them
Turn the Vehicle on until it gets to Operating Temperature then Remove the O2 sensor.. Just because you have tools doesn’t mean you know how to use them..
A week before I plan on changing O2 sensors I spray with PB Blaster everyday in the morning and at night. The heating and cooling down process works away all the rust and they come off like butter
That's why you use an acetylene torch to heat it up first and then try to break it free. I had an O2 sensor on my Ram 1500 that was rust welded. I took a torch to it and it broke free.
If they're REALLY stuck, a trick I've done that's never failed is to put a worm gear style hose clamp around the O2 sensor socket to keep it from spreading under too much force. That combined with a healthy dose of what's called Mouse Milk lets you get even the worst ones out.
Also copper anti-seize rather than the normal silver colored stuff is what you want for exhaust parts & hardware (looks like you use copper but I couldn't tell for sure on my screen).
Yes I love that trick it works great!
I schedule the Italian tune up just before the o2 sensor replacement, and leave it running till its loose.
Heat it and rub a wax candle around the threads. Had a rounded 02 sensor on my 04 Silverado that I could not for the life of me get off. That was the only things that worked.
No, absolutely not. You can use some anti seize on the outer threads but candle wax will melt and go the only way it can go, into the exhaust where it will hit the sensor and fuck it up for good.
Candle wax is not anti seize, anti seize is aluminium or copper paste depending on what you are using it on.
Quick tip especially on Toyota sensors. If you get a sensor that is really stuck or is starting to pull threads heat it up but not to long to the point of destroying the sensor and spray brake fluid on it. it will break the rust down fast. Also that car was running lean as fuck, a sensor is likely not the only problem.
Anti-seize isn't a solution to a 20+ year old oxygen sensor originally installed at the factory. Once you get it out you can use anti-seize with the replacement. If the vehicle is still around in another 20 years, the oxygen sensor will be easy to get out.
Great point!
The best way to help your O2 sensors last longer is to run Chevron fuel injector cleaner every other tank full of gas..I've been running my O2 sensors for 8 years now
That's why I hate doing O2 sensors
Aerocroil. Leave a few hours. Turn no problem....we use that on stuck turbine blades
Sounded like a rooster when he was wrenching.
Good ear!
Just make sure its high temp antiseize. Yes there are different formulations of antiseize.
My O2 sensors were so stuck, I pulled all threads off. Torching, oiling didn't help at all. Luckily it was sensor threads that got pulled, so I tapped threads again and got new sensors in.
Don’t use dielectric grease in O2 sensor connectors, there’s a good reason for that, and it ain’t what you think.
LOL, this will be good, what is your explanation? you really SHOULD use dielectric grease on the connector.
I'm going to assume you are thinking about how vulcanised rubber reacts with dielectric grease but that isn't used in a high temperature environment anyway, it's just PVC.
@@michaelmay5453
Oxygen sensor is the only sensor that shouldn't have silicone on the plug or anywhere near it
@@JohnSmith-xu7ev We're talking about applying dielectric grease ON THE CONNECTOR, not on the sensor.
Besides, dielectric grease does NOT contain silicone.
@@michaelmay5453
Now reread my comment because im replying about not doing that
@@JohnSmith-xu7ev You were wrong, but you're 'murican so you can't ever learn anything because you can't admit that you are wrong.
Just... stop.
I put anti-seize on everything and maybe it works in the south where they don't use salt and don't get the freezing temperatures on the O2 sensors but they still seize in in the north even with it. Don't get me wrong though- I still use it. That and heat helps.
That sensor sounded like a rooster.
Last Oxy sensor I removed: cut harness off, wack it out with impact gun, chase threads, install new one with anti sieze and barely more than hand tight. Works perfect.(my own car)
Brake fluid bro! If she feels like she's galling. Put some brake fluid into threads and tighten back up. 5 min later it'll come out like a brand new car
This or wax works everytime
Try removing the sensor with the exhaust fully hot. It usually helps when they are difficult to remove. Old mechanics trick.
Use heat. Works every time. Anti-seize doesn't help much because it burns off.
No it cooks to a crispy golden brown and solidifies.
Its not the o2 its obviously running lean as hell look how hot that o2 got
Cleared the engine light and it didn't come back. Mustve fixed it. Not like it's still in open loop or anything. Thanks for the 150$ Mr customer. 'laayyytuuuuur'
Problem vacuum leak or min take mainifold leak
@@FredJones122 soulsnatcher is probably right yeah It temporally fixed it.... cool you made 150 but a few months later they will be back for the same reason or the actual reason the 02 went bad in the first place gets worse and causes different problems. Hey it's fixed for now so you have no lesson to learn right.... never think you know everything because then you can't learn anything past that point but hey good luck let us know when customer comes back
Instead of "later" more like..."awkward" 🤣
Isn’t that white coating a sign of antifreeze fouling signaling the car has some sort of coolant intrusion issue?…
Heat then quench. If that sensor is rough on you don’t get into the diesels after treatment systems…
Put in everything - a door hinge bolt. A door latch screw. A bumper bolt. A battery clamp bolt. The list goes on and on.
One of my trucks i needed to use a jack to push on the wrench when doing my 02 sensors lol.
Just did my 01 suburban and they came with antisieze on them
The new one will look like that soon if you don't fix the real problem.
I swear that 3rd creaking sounded like a rooster crowing!!
that's why you just hit it with a torch for a minute, and it comes right out. Everytime I have ever seen anti seize used on shit like that it dries out to rock hard and makes it harder to remove,
Still need to chase the threads for the anti seize to really work
it helps when you run the engine to get the sensor hot.
sometimes the antiseize on a new install isn't going to solve things...thats why you should chase the threads before a replacement install
It came out without breaking. No anti-seize necessary.
doesent matter if u use anti-seize it will still get stuck cause of the heat
The brown/ red high temp anti seize works great for those sensors.
Nice job. I would have been scared to crank hard on that thing.
That's why I bought a tap
You forgot to run a thread chaser or tap through the female threads. That actually makes a difference.
Never anti seize. It weld's them eventually. Use the copper ir gold stuff. Listen to those thread's screaming
Unless you plan to reuse it...
CUT the wires and throw a socket on that bugger! 🤙🏽
Work smarter
I'm a hoarder!!!
@@MattsShop 😅 I always think I'm gonna weld some figurine together with all the scraps. Until I end up with a half ton that needs to go. Lol
What happens if you cut the wore off and can't get it ?.
@@Alberthoward3right9up it was broken anyway. The special socket wouldn't have made any difference in that case. Install doesn't require much torque and is usually a lot easier than removal.
Just get an o2 sensor socket, pretty cheap and can definitely come in handy
Wow. It’s a miracle.
I didn't fight the one in my 85 S10 when it went bad but better to sensor was up underneath the hood when they exhaust manifold it wasn't underneath the truck where it can get access to salt in the winter so it came out a lot easier than that a whole lot easier
sounds like a damn rooster
Dielectric grease not good for O2 plug. Don't do it.
Yes it does. It helps a lot.
Who told you that ? Of course it's OK to use dielectric grease in that application,
Gregg is right. Don't use grease on the connector it can ruin the sensor
Use copper anti seize i worked were the bolts heat cycled over 200 times at pretty high steam temp works okay
Got lucky the threads didn’t come out with it
When bolts are seized and can’t come out it’s best to buy a new car😂😂😂😂❤❤❤
Later you find out that that was perfectly fine sensor and the problem is the EGR valve. You're welcome. 📡👽🇺🇸 RUN!!!
Be careful with the anti seize though, only on the outer threads because the smallest copper/aluminium particle on that sensor and it's fucked for good.
The ol rooster in the shop
Before u attempt to pull it out. Tighten it up first the pull it out and that want happen
Drive in the right part of the US and even that anti-seize won't help... lol
Leave the car running so the heat of the exhaust will expand the metal a lil bit
You do know that anti-seize will burn off when you run the engine
You used the aluminum anti seize instead of the copper "high heat" anti seize
LIKE THE ANTI SEIZE AINT GONNA BURN OFF MELT
AND, Don't over tighten.
Sounds like a rooster.
Great ears!
Hmm just replaced mine on my 21 year old Toyota. Came out nice and smooth 🤔
Or just run the engine for a bit. Steel contracts when it's cooled.
Good job.
You know if you had warmed the car up the 02 sensor probably would have come right outb
It was!
Did Joe Dirt just fix my O2?
But why did it fail?
You got anti seize on the sensor. Not good for it. Thermal paste is bad on anything but what it's meant for
anti sieze aint gonna do shit after many heat cycles it will be cooked! so after 5+ years you go to replace it again and you will have the same problem
Hearing it squeak makes me cringe, spray lube and work it back and forth.
Sounds like a rooster 🐓
Good ears!
It’ll get stuck because you’re using the silver. You have to use the gold.
Funny have never had to replace one....320k Nissan.
Lean condition?
I had to use an impact on mine 😂
Haha sometimes!!
The color of the o2 sensor looks like silicone poisoning
Anyone ever heated one up so hot you pull the threads coming out
Hit it with heat first
always works
I change the two oxygen sensor and the check engine light still on idk what else to do
Is that downstream or upstream 02 sensor
It can't be tight if it's a liquid
Been trying to take out my o2 for weeks now it won’t budge
I ended up rounding the hex nut from fighting it so much and the socket started slipping. I used a 14" pipe wrench which can grip the rounded hex nut pretty well. I alternated between spraying rust penetrant, banging it with a sledge hammer, and pulling on the wrench and it finally came loose. Don't give up
@@raiden031 took a saws all to it 3 weeks ago and just welded a new thread lol
Yeah that's one that's easy to get to😂
Cut wires use deep socket
wait.
there's a socket for this????
....
Yeaa
Wasn’t even bad I took one out that was cross threaded with a 1/2 impact cut the wire right at the end of the sensor and threw a deep 7/8 uga duga that shit out and re tapped the threads
Good luck screwing the new one in
Does it come with antiseize from the factory?
This one did.
Some do,
Mine just stripped off while using the o2 socket
But you don't put them on o2 sensors
What are you smoking anti seize on an O2 sensor it's going to burn off back to square one
U should not tighten them with breaker bars and they should be torqued. U think thats contributing to why ur struggling to remove it.
Sounds like a rooster…
Only use 02 sensor anti seize though or use what's included in package