Hi Terry, I use a brass drift to remove the cone washers. Hit the stud on the end and it should come loose. It is the easiest way I have found for removing them. Enjoying the build. Cheers
Removing those retaining screws for the bearing tension nut I have found getting a small punch and tapping the tension nut slightly anti clockwise will remove the tension from the screws.
You know you are watching TH-cam gold when you almost feel guilty (almost) for all the pitfalls and bruised knuckles you are dodging by stealing from the hard-earned experience of a maestro.😁 Brilliant video! Cheers and thanks from South Africa.
They are pretty bloody good. You just need an air compressor with the grunt to run it. Thanks for watching and commenting mate, I sincerely appreciate it 😎👍
That’s too funny Steve. I’m only going to be around on the planet for another 20 years or so. As such, I refuse to own any lame ass cars in my short time left😂😎👍
all through this i was saying to myself.... "break out the sand blaster machine".... and ive got a handbrake in my cruiser..... she sits in the passenger's front seat afor rhe last 32 years... great videos champion...mick
Indeed mate. I love it, and tend to find excuses to use it😂😂. I just replaced the sand in it because I wore my sand out. I did not think you could actually do that🤔🙃
Thanks for video. I found the hand brake used to stick on the ones mounted on the drum, where the ones on the back of the box didnt do that. Rather than fix the hand brake i just never used it, this bit me on the arse when the battery died and i wanted to let it idle and it rolled away. I parked in a garden while i went to the bank to pay for battery
Hi Terry, love your work mate. The trick I’ve found to getting the cone washers out is to wind a nut on the stud until it’s more or less flush with the end of the stud, then give it a solid whack with a fairly good sized hammer. This pops the cone washer out. If it doesn’t pop out you give it a few more whacks and it should. Be wary of how hard you hit though as too hard and you can damage thread and then you have to re-tap them to clean up the thread.
Thanks for the suggestion mate, I’ll give that a try the next time Mr Cone washer and I encounter one and other (which I trust is a long time away😂). I appreciate you taking the time to watch and share. Cheers😎👍
Thank you Keith you are very kind. I’m having a great time despite some of the challenges this build is throwing at me (or perhaps because of it!). Cheers😎👍
To get the car washes out all I do is tap the hub to get the about when put a screwdriver in between the gap on them in and spin anticlockwise like a nut
That’s great news mate, I’m glad you found some useful information here. New vids come out weekly on Friday, with FJ45 subject matter probably around 1 in 4 videos. Cheers
Hi Terry, another great pull down and rebuild. Not sure where you get your patience, but good old perserverance and a great bunch of specialist tools and techniques, and another complex job finished. Thoroughly enjoying the journey and totally engaged as you proceed. looking forward to the next installment.
Thanks Andrew. It’s amazing how things don’t go to plan more often than they do🤔. Believe it or not, I kinda like that because it gets one thinking. Thanks for watching and commenting mate, I sincerely appreciate it 😎👍
Run a bead of weld on the old bearing race surface while in the dirty hub, the dirt and grease stops the splatter sticking and as the weld cools the race will fall out due to shrinkage. The shrinkage is permanent so when replacing the new race the old race will be a few thou smaller and will not jam.
g/day terry if you have a lathe just take a couple of thou of the race or a belt sander just spin it with a couple of fingers and then no more sticking cheers
Will do Alex, in fact I’ll probably have an entire episode on the subject. I’m a long way off from that currently however, as the tub is still not mounted onto the chassis. Thanks for the suggestion. Cheers😎👍
I’m not sure what year the FJ45’s changed from semi to full floating. You will certainly need a full floating diff for the 60 or 80 series backing plates to work. My 74 model was semi floating hence the reason I had to change it out. Cheers👍😎
Hi mate Ive done the same thing. But im having an issue where the handbrake cable hits the rear struts is there any solution around this issue. And what handbrake cable did you use? Thanks
Hi Jamie, I have not sourced nor run the handbrake cable yet so can’t help I’m afraid. If you do find a solution let me know, you might save me some heartache. Cheers😎👍
hi terry i copied you on the rear 80 backing plate conversion for my 47 , are you only doing this to one side and just using this for the handbrake or are u doing both sides and complete conversion , cheers mateeeeee!!!!
Yes mate, I did the complete conversion on both sides, so I have a left and right backing plate off an 80 Series. I release videos every Friday at 3pm Qld time. On Friday January 14th I will publish a video on how to hook up the 79 Series handbrake cable to the 80/60 series backing plates, and how to connect the 79 cable to the original 45 Series cable so you have the same handbrake pull lever under the dash. I don't know if you are subscribed or not, but it might be worthwhile to do this if that video might be of interest. Cheers!
@@JafffaAdventures so i really should order the other side backing plate and brake gear , because otherwise ill have one side 47 series brake system and the other side with 80 series brake system , hope that makes sense!
Yes I certainly would You will have only half a handbrake if you don’t. If you are 4WDing on uneven ground and the wheel with no brake is in the air you’re sunk (plus it’s probably illegal from a roadworthy perspective as well. Cheers
Grab a wheel bearing needle to grease them up. Pokes in the bearing between the rollers and you use a grease gun to fill them up. I used the hand method and its not pleasant!
Thanks for the idea, it’s a good one that’s for sure. Anything to avoid the crappy hand method has got to be worth a crack. Will try it the next time I have to grease a bearing. Cheers😎👍
Yes that’s what I have heard as well mate. I’m not sure on the width of the 75 diff, but that is certainly an option. Thanks for watching and commenting mate, I sincerely appreciate it 😎👍
Hi terry any chance you have the part number for the new rear brake hubs to suit the 80 series backing plate , trying to order some and not a 100% sure which ones to get , cheers mate
Hey Jaffa. Excuse the possibly stuipid question but given all of that effort, why didn't you convert the rear to disc? Loving this build mate. Am dreaming of doing similar to a '40 one day!
Good stuff mate, great to see another person with a love of 40’s keeping the dream alive! Good question re rear discs mate. I think front discs and rear drums will provide me with plenty of stopping power, especially when coupled to a hydroboost unit that will be going under the bonnet. Plenty more build vids to come Greg so hang in there mate. Cheers😎👍
Hi Terry, I use a brass drift to remove the cone washers. Hit the stud on the end and it should come loose. It is the easiest way I have found for removing them. Enjoying the build. Cheers
Cheers mate, I too have employed the drift method. Thanks for sharing😎👍
Removing those retaining screws for the bearing tension nut I have found getting a small punch and tapping the tension nut slightly anti clockwise will remove the tension from the screws.
Good tip mate, thanks for sharing😎❤️
You know you are watching TH-cam gold when you almost feel guilty (almost) for all the pitfalls and bruised knuckles you are dodging by stealing from the hard-earned experience of a maestro.😁 Brilliant video! Cheers and thanks from South Africa.
That is very kind of you to say Henk, thank you very much. Lots more bruises and bone head mistakes coming your way, stay tuned😎👍
@@JafffaAdventures hey brother wanted to ask what t case u used I noticed it wasn't a split
No Wayne, it’s an 80 series transfer case. There is an entire video in the library on that one mate. Cheers👍😎
@@JafffaAdventures hit the stud with a brass hammer
Indeed, need to get me one of those😂👍😎
👍👍👍Gotta get me one of them little sand blasters
They are pretty bloody good. You just need an air compressor with the grunt to run it. Thanks for watching and commenting mate, I sincerely appreciate it 😎👍
I was told never use grease when driving new races in, also bearing races driver is around $40 for whole set. Well worth bying.
Definitely like the idea of a bearing race driver and I have since bought one, but for one offs this method works fantastic. 😎
I love it "I want to light both those suckers up" You remind me of me lol. Cheers Steve
That’s too funny Steve. I’m only going to be around on the planet for another 20 years or so. As such, I refuse to own any lame ass cars in my short time left😂😎👍
@@JafffaAdventures I agree lol that’s why I have a 200 too
Awesome truck❤️👍
If you cut through the old race, it's easy to knock the new race in and get the old one out
That’s what I did mate and detailed it in the video. Cheers👍😎
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, I enjoy watching your videos.
Thank you for your kind words Oscar. Stay tuned lots more to come and I am certainly learning along the way too!! Cheers
all through this i was saying to myself.... "break out the sand blaster machine".... and ive got a handbrake in my cruiser..... she sits in the passenger's front seat afor rhe last 32 years... great videos champion...mick
Indeed mate. I love it, and tend to find excuses to use it😂😂. I just replaced the sand in it because I wore my sand out. I did not think you could actually do that🤔🙃
You can also put a cut in the old race so you can use it for driving in the new one without getting jammed in.
Yep, very good idea David. Thanks for sharing with everyone, just awesome mate. Cheers😎👍
Thanks for video. I found the hand brake used to stick on the ones mounted on the drum, where the ones on the back of the box didnt do that. Rather than fix the hand brake i just never used it, this bit me on the arse when the battery died and i wanted to let it idle and it rolled away. I parked in a garden while i went to the bank to pay for battery
That is an awesome story mAte, had me cracking up. Every Toyota 4WD owner, no matter what model I bet has a handbrake story😂👍
Hi Terry, love your work mate. The trick I’ve found to getting the cone washers out is to wind a nut on the stud until it’s more or less flush with the end of the stud, then give it a solid whack with a fairly good sized hammer. This pops the cone washer out. If it doesn’t pop out you give it a few more whacks and it should. Be wary of how hard you hit though as too hard and you can damage thread and then you have to re-tap them to clean up the thread.
Thanks for the suggestion mate, I’ll give that a try the next time Mr Cone washer and I encounter one and other (which I trust is a long time away😂). I appreciate you taking the time to watch and share. Cheers😎👍
Another great vid Terry.
Thanks Matt, I appreciate you taking the time to say so. Cheers😎👍
Neodymium ring magnet
Thanks for watching and commenting 😎👍
Great video Terry. Love watching a maestro at work. Cheers.
Thank you Keith you are very kind. I’m having a great time despite some of the challenges this build is throwing at me (or perhaps because of it!). Cheers😎👍
To get the car washes out all I do is tap the hub to get the about when put a screwdriver in between the gap on them in and spin anticlockwise like a nut
Good advice Nicole, thanks for sharing and watching😎👍
Awesome videos
Thank you mate, that’s very kind of you to say. Cheers👍😎
Great informative work mate, will definitely come in handy for my 40 series resto! cheers
That’s great news mate, I’m glad you found some useful information here. New vids come out weekly on Friday, with FJ45 subject matter probably around 1 in 4 videos. Cheers
Hi Terry, another great pull down and rebuild. Not sure where you get your patience, but good old perserverance and a great bunch of specialist tools and techniques, and another complex job finished. Thoroughly enjoying the journey and totally engaged as you proceed. looking forward to the next installment.
Thanks Andrew. It’s amazing how things don’t go to plan more often than they do🤔. Believe it or not, I kinda like that because it gets one thinking. Thanks for watching and commenting mate, I sincerely appreciate it 😎👍
Run a bead of weld on the old bearing race surface while in the dirty hub, the dirt and grease stops the splatter sticking and as the weld cools the race will fall out due to shrinkage. The shrinkage is permanent so when replacing the new race the old race will be a few thou smaller and will not jam.
Good tip mate, thanks 👍😎
g/day terry if you have a lathe just take a couple of thou of the race or a belt sander just spin it with a couple of fingers and then no more sticking cheers
Nice one Jim, very clever. Thanks for sharing mate, really appreciate it 😎👍
Can you please post a few pics of how you ran the cable and what brake cable did you use
Will do Alex, in fact I’ll probably have an entire episode on the subject. I’m a long way off from that currently however, as the tub is still not mounted onto the chassis. Thanks for the suggestion. Cheers😎👍
Much easier to put a thin kerf cut in the old race mate, makes it much easier! Cheers, Andy
Yes, very good advise Andy. Thanks for taking the time to share it with everyone mate, cheers😎👍
Mechanic once told me If you make a cut in the old brace then it’s easier to get it out again,
That’s great advice Hans, thanks for sharing. Lots more to come mate. Cheers😎👍
Another entertaining and informative video terry. Love your work.😁
Thanks David, you are very kind mate and I appreciate you sharing. Keep the shiny side up mate😎👍
I found if U hammer a small flat blade screw driver into the split in the cone washer they will come out stuck to the end of the screw driver
Good option to try mate, thanks for sharing😎👍
take out studs first to remove cone washers ?
Yep, that may just do the trick Dale. Thanks for sharing, I sincerely appreciate it 😎👍
Will that fj-45 unit full float assy fit a 78 fj-40 ??
I’m not sure what year the FJ45’s changed from semi to full floating. You will certainly need a full floating diff for the 60 or 80 series backing plates to work. My 74 model was semi floating hence the reason I had to change it out. Cheers👍😎
Hi mate Ive done the same thing. But im having an issue where the handbrake cable hits the rear struts is there any solution around this issue. And what handbrake cable did you use?
Thanks
Hi Jamie, I have not sourced nor run the handbrake cable yet so can’t help I’m afraid. If you do find a solution let me know, you might save me some heartache. Cheers😎👍
hi terry i copied you on the rear 80 backing plate conversion for my 47 , are you only doing this to one side and just using this for the handbrake or are u doing both sides and complete conversion , cheers mateeeeee!!!!
Yes mate, I did the complete conversion on both sides, so I have a left and right backing plate off an 80 Series. I release videos every Friday at 3pm Qld time. On Friday January 14th I will publish a video on how to hook up the 79 Series handbrake cable to the 80/60 series backing plates, and how to connect the 79 cable to the original 45 Series cable so you have the same handbrake pull lever under the dash. I don't know if you are subscribed or not, but it might be worthwhile to do this if that video might be of interest. Cheers!
@@JafffaAdventures thanks i have definitely subscribed , i look forward to the video 📹, these will make more sense to me then lol , cheers mate
No worries mate, glad I could be helpful 👍😎
@@JafffaAdventures so i really should order the other side backing plate and brake gear , because otherwise ill have one side 47 series brake system and the other side with 80 series brake system , hope that makes sense!
Yes I certainly would
You will have only half a handbrake if you don’t.
If you are 4WDing on uneven ground and the wheel with no brake is in the air you’re sunk (plus it’s probably illegal from a roadworthy perspective as well. Cheers
Grab a wheel bearing needle to grease them up. Pokes in the bearing between the rollers and you use a grease gun to fill them up. I used the hand method and its not pleasant!
Thanks for the idea, it’s a good one that’s for sure. Anything to avoid the crappy hand method has got to be worth a crack. Will try it the next time I have to grease a bearing. Cheers😎👍
how much wider is the 75 series diff ? i;ve heard you can just run a whole 75 series diff and just pull the spring out to the purches ?
Yes that’s what I have heard as well mate. I’m not sure on the width of the 75 diff, but that is certainly an option. Thanks for watching and commenting mate, I sincerely appreciate it 😎👍
Hi terry any chance you have the part number for the new rear brake hubs to suit the 80 series backing plate , trying to order some and not a 100% sure which ones to get , cheers mate
No sorry mate
I got mine second hand. Cheers
@@JafffaAdventures all good mate cheers 🍻
Cheers
Hey Jaffa. Excuse the possibly stuipid question but given all of that effort, why didn't you convert the rear to disc? Loving this build mate. Am dreaming of doing similar to a '40 one day!
Good stuff mate, great to see another person with a love of 40’s keeping the dream alive! Good question re rear discs mate. I think front discs and rear drums will provide me with plenty of stopping power, especially when coupled to a hydroboost unit that will be going under the bonnet. Plenty more build vids to come Greg so hang in there mate. Cheers😎👍