As these vehicles start to come into their prime, these videos are invaluable, thanks for your efforts in the whole process (recording/editing/the actual repairs)
Excellent video thank you. It showed me where all the hidden aspects of removing this were without me having to find them myself. But my suggestion to make it much easier is this: Undo all the bolts you undo and the electrical connections. But there is no need to remove the plastic plenum tube. Do everything you did but just release the big jubilee clips on each end of the plenum and rotate the whole shebang upwards. Then you can unbolt the two bolts underneath easily. Then the two top bolts. Then it comes out without a fight. Once the throttle body is removed you can just stick your hand in there and clean it manually. Take the throttle body away and use 0000 fine woolwire to get the carbon off both the body and the edge of the butterfly. This is crucial to solving why it's got a bad idle. This is what is causing bad running as air is escaping around the carbon build up highs spots causing poor idle because the butterfly is not closing properly. With zero disrespect to your efforts, you eventually got this part of the fix right but main point is don't remove the plenum box as there is no need to as long as you can then rotate it for ease of removal. Don't mess with the electrical connections, use contact cleaner. Carefully check the screws in the electrical bits attached to the throttle body in case they have come loose. Not too hard. if they were loose you will know it. You need to make sure no air leaks is why I mention this. Then check the gasket from the throttle body to the plenum box. Mine was old and flat meaning potential air leak. Use a flat hand sander around 120 corse. This will make sure your throttle body side is totally flat. Then even if you don't buy a new gasket which I didn't, use a suitable silicon gasket maker that can't later get sucked into the works. Be aware that the throttle body is alluminium and where the steel butterfly and the body meet may be corroded. The original car is nearly 30 years old. Mine was a bit pitted. Reassemble. Stable idle and proper throttle response will follow. Brisbane Australia
+@InpointmediaAuSydney Great additional info! Thanks. The title is how to remove it, and many people need to completely remove it for other reasons than just cleaning
Thanks got the video! Followed your steps and got the job done. I found out that driving the car to operating temperature helped heat up the tubes and consequently it was easier to remove the throttle body.
Thank you so much for putting this video together. It helped me a lot. Quick tip it’s easier to push the rubber clamps in on the throttle body when removing it after the metal clamps have been loosened. I learned that after taking my out after watching your video which came in super handy. Mine is a 1997 Boxster Guard red with grey interior. So after I took the throttle body out to clean it I found oil inside the intake. Which right away made me think of the AOS because I saw your video on that and it came to my attention that my Boxster already had the new design on it which tells me it was replaced at some point. I don’t have a lot of the history on my Boxster. It have 82k on it now. So this tells me that the first one failed. And now the second. I don’t think the intake should have this much oil in it. This all started when my right side bank was misfiring. Cyl 1-2-3. Took the coils and plugs out and inspected. It looked decent. I have a new set on order. Since you are so knowledgeable and experienced do you think I need a new AOS put in? And will this cause me to need a new catalytic converter? Please advise and again thanks so much for these videos.
+eboueiri you’re welcome for the videos. I’ve never heard of anyone NOT finding oil in there, so it’s hard to say if you need a new AOS. I have a video on testing the AOS.
I'll be changing the starter on my 98' 986 this weekend and removing the throttle body to gain access to the starter bolts. I always like to clean the idle air control valve and throttle body while the intake is apart, easy enough to do. Next weekend is spark plug tube replacement.
Hey I have a 2001 986 Boxster S 3.2L and my car has been making a strange rattling sound. The sound comes from the rear area of the car. It sounds like marbles in a tin can or sheet metal rattling. It is only noticeable in low gears and accelerating. At steady throttle there was no rattle. Any thoughts? by any chance. Thanks
WD-40 is helpful when removing the rubber collars on either side of the cross pipe. on reinstall, I put all the plastics in a bucket of near boiling water while I am cleaning the throttle body. They are a lot more flexible going in. Obviously need to dry carefully, but do not go crazy. Although my 2000 is a little easier, I try to remove brackets rather than fight with clips. Most times the brackets are bolted - awkwardly to be sure. But they don't break like the plastic stuff.
Thanks for another solid video! I did this over the weekend along with the AOS, and really just wanted to cry. AOS was cramped for space but not bad at all. The throttle body removal? Wow. Your brain thinks it’s going to be easier because it’s so exposed. But no! It’s every bit as tedious and exacting as it looks in the video here, and then some. I recommend a clear calendar, cold beverages, and contemplative pauses. Are everyone’s screws to release/tighten the gasket clamps set completely under (!) the assembly on their car, positioned impossibly toward the interior like a sick joke, or am I just lucky? All good now though. Runs great 😁
Any particular reason for removing and inspecting this part Aaron? Or just for the fun of it? I have to say the engine bay on my 1998 is by no means clean but somewhat cleaner than yours.
@@HelpMeDIY Of course your screeching starter. I had no idea the starter was on top of the crankcase. I assumed it was something one would attack from underneath the car.
As these vehicles start to come into their prime, these videos are invaluable, thanks for your efforts in the whole process (recording/editing/the actual repairs)
+Jacob L. Thank you sir!
Excellent video thank you. It showed me where all the hidden aspects of removing this were without me having to find them myself. But my suggestion to make it much easier is this: Undo all the bolts you undo and the electrical connections. But there is no need to remove the plastic plenum tube. Do everything you did but just release the big jubilee clips on each end of the plenum and rotate the whole shebang upwards. Then you can unbolt the two bolts underneath easily. Then the two top bolts. Then it comes out without a fight. Once the throttle body is removed you can just stick your hand in there and clean it manually. Take the throttle body away and use 0000 fine woolwire to get the carbon off both the body and the edge of the butterfly. This is crucial to solving why it's got a bad idle. This is what is causing bad running as air is escaping around the carbon build up highs spots causing poor idle because the butterfly is not closing properly. With zero disrespect to your efforts, you eventually got this part of the fix right but main point is don't remove the plenum box as there is no need to as long as you can then rotate it for ease of removal. Don't mess with the electrical connections, use contact cleaner. Carefully check the screws in the electrical bits attached to the throttle body in case they have come loose. Not too hard. if they were loose you will know it. You need to make sure no air leaks is why I mention this. Then check the gasket from the throttle body to the plenum box. Mine was old and flat meaning potential air leak. Use a flat hand sander around 120 corse. This will make sure your throttle body side is totally flat. Then even if you don't buy a new gasket which I didn't, use a suitable silicon gasket maker that can't later get sucked into the works. Be aware that the throttle body is alluminium and where the steel butterfly and the body meet may be corroded. The original car is nearly 30 years old. Mine was a bit pitted. Reassemble. Stable idle and proper throttle response will follow. Brisbane Australia
+@InpointmediaAuSydney Great additional info! Thanks. The title is how to remove it, and many people need to completely remove it for other reasons than just cleaning
Thanks got the video! Followed your steps and got the job done. I found out that driving the car to operating temperature helped heat up the tubes and consequently it was easier to remove the throttle body.
+@siyangsun3075 congrats!🍻
Thank you so much for putting this video together. It helped me a lot. Quick tip it’s easier to push the rubber clamps in on the throttle body when removing it after the metal clamps have been loosened. I learned that after taking my out after watching your video which came in super handy. Mine is a 1997 Boxster Guard red with grey interior. So after I took the throttle body out to clean it I found oil inside the intake. Which right away made me think of the AOS because I saw your video on that and it came to my attention that my Boxster already had the new design on it which tells me it was replaced at some point. I don’t have a lot of the history on my Boxster. It have 82k on it now. So this tells me that the first one failed. And now the second. I don’t think the intake should have this much oil in it. This all started when my right side bank was misfiring. Cyl 1-2-3. Took the coils and plugs out and inspected. It looked decent. I have a new set on order. Since you are so knowledgeable and experienced do you think I need a new AOS put in? And will this cause me to need a new catalytic converter? Please advise and again thanks so much for these videos.
+eboueiri you’re welcome for the videos. I’ve never heard of anyone NOT finding oil in there, so it’s hard to say if you need a new AOS. I have a video on testing the AOS.
I'll be changing the starter on my 98' 986 this weekend and removing the throttle body to gain access to the starter bolts. I always like to clean the idle air control valve and throttle body while the intake is apart, easy enough to do. Next weekend is spark plug tube replacement.
+Lauterbornie that’s why I was removing this. Starter replacement video coming soon
I M amazed at the complexity of this operation…You are a very patient person! 🤓👍
+Bob Fognozzle thanks 😊
Stuck on this clip that comes out to the right of the air filter housing no idea any tips on this wire?
+RealCameronP oof… not sure sorry
Looks like the first step for all Boxter engine repairs should …remove engine and place in rotisserie stand, Porsche pn…….
+Bob Fognozzle 😂
Hey I have a 2001 986 Boxster S 3.2L and my car has been making a strange rattling sound. The sound comes from the rear area of the car. It sounds like marbles in a tin can or sheet metal rattling. It is only noticeable in low gears and accelerating. At steady throttle there was no rattle. Any thoughts? by any chance. Thanks
+g florezz maybe a loose heat shield? I’d have to be there and even then I probably wouldn’t know 🤷♂️. Sorry I suck at diagnosing
Probably the cat
How do you sign up to win the BMW?
+Andy Roberts there’s a link in the description
Thanks for these videos!
+Rick Beacham you’re welcome 🍻
Currently elbow deep in the motor pulling it for a 3.2
+RealCameronP sounds fun! You’re way ahead of me then.
WD-40 is helpful when removing the rubber collars on either side of the cross pipe. on reinstall, I put all the plastics in a bucket of near boiling water while I am cleaning the throttle body. They are a lot more flexible going in. Obviously need to dry carefully, but do not go crazy.
Although my 2000 is a little easier, I try to remove brackets rather than fight with clips. Most times the brackets are bolted - awkwardly to be sure. But they don't break like the plastic stuff.
+John Morgan thanks for the tips!
Thanks for another solid video! I did this over the weekend along with the AOS, and really just wanted to cry.
AOS was cramped for space but not bad at all. The throttle body removal? Wow. Your brain thinks it’s going to be easier because it’s so exposed. But no! It’s every bit as tedious and exacting as it looks in the video here, and then some. I recommend a clear calendar, cold beverages, and contemplative pauses. Are everyone’s screws to release/tighten the gasket clamps set completely under (!) the assembly on their car, positioned impossibly toward the interior like a sick joke, or am I just lucky?
All good now though. Runs great 😁
+mxkaybee kaybeemx haha glad you got it sorted!
I like how you said "I hate these things" for each connector on the AOS hose lol
+Michael Long #facts 😆
Any particular reason for removing and inspecting this part Aaron? Or just for the fun of it? I have to say the engine bay on my 1998 is by no means clean but somewhat cleaner than yours.
+Andrew Farrow I was replacing the starter. Broke out into two videos
@@HelpMeDIY Of course your screeching starter. I had no idea the starter was on top of the crankcase. I assumed it was something one would attack from underneath the car.