There are model makers, then master model makers makers & then, there is you- A Super Skilled Master Model Maker! I watch your work with awe! Superb workmanship.
Yes, my test spraying of the paint has left me very pleased! It looks awesome and really gives that rainbow prism effect. Perfect for the aztec panels of these ships.
Is that iridescent paint used all over? I noticed in your part one the first layer of paint looks like a much darker gray, closer to what the instructions tell you to paint, but this coat looks much "white-r"? did you do your own color mix for the base and then the iridescent for the aztec accents?
Its an evolution in design. The TOS ship and the Refit are my personal favorites but the new design appeals to a modern generation of Trek fans who I am sure will look back on it as their favorite as well.
Sounds like you got enough to stay busy so that's good. Excellent video as always. Love the way you explain so much in detail. Very helpful to a beginner modeler like myself. Appreciate your vids Sir.
On this model I mounted a wood block inside it which was fastened in place with some 2 part epoxy. Very strong. The wood was drilled out to accept the rod but not go all the way through. A smaller hole allows the wiring to pass through it into the model. The model can pivot 360 and is held in place by gravity. In other cases I have used threaded rod and a lock nut on top and bottom to hold the model in place.
Hey Boyd. That's one beautiful looking ship. I love how your blues turned out, and it's coming along great. I can't stop looking at it. Very well done.
How you doing Mr Crompton, the soldiers and myself of the WTB Ft. Sam Houston would like to say your doing an outstanding job! This is one of the hobbies the soldiers here have picked up while waiting to complete there treatments. They have learned a great deal from your videos. Very professional and you don't stray of the task. We will send you some pictures of our models soon. "Keep up the Fire Sir".
SMD surface mounted diode. They are basically very tiny light emitting diodes. I have been using these as of late as they will fit in very tight spots and put out a lot of light for their size.
Awesome ship! I also like that you have the lighting coming from the piece leading to the impulse engines! QMX's Artisan Replica doesn't even have that lit!
Some very nice ideas for sure: One thing however, you frequently say "If the lights were down you'd see the lighting effects much better...." You might flick the light switch on the wall once or twice, I'd wait a few seconds personally. Verbal descriptions never equal the shot, a pic being worth a thousand words & all. I know we'll likely see it at the end, but I want it ALL RIGHT NOW AAARRRGH! :-D Cheers and Thanks for posting.
I STILL need to see the movie :( But the model looks great. I really need to try and pick your brain sometime over the techniques you use to build, seam filling and sanding after painting for a start. But anyway, great build and another great video.
Hi Boyd, Question do you spray a clear coat eg gloss or futures before you start laying the aztec masks. Also when you weather with a spray gun do you apply is straight on your finished paint surface or are you also applying a gloss and or dull coat first. Thanks for your help. Keep up the great work.
Hi Boyd.If/when you have the time can you say if you painted the clear bussard pieces as they seem to be a shade of blue before you fire up the lighting.Thanks for any pointers.
hi there, fantastic model am building one myself. the spine on the top of the saucer behind the bridge, how did you get light coming out of those? its not a clear part. did u cut them out and put clear pieces in? many thanks. joe
Sorry to bother you "again" but where do you get your brass rods and bases from? Just had my kit delivered so looking forward top getting started on it sometime soon.
Really been enjoying your videos, I'm in awe at your models they are fantastic. I'm just beginner really, I've been building this model myself without lighting, step too far for me at the moment, but it's great to see what is possible. It's probably a boring topic but I noticed how much of your model you have built and how many clear parts you have painted before the main spraying, how are you masking all that stuff?! Keep up the good work.
I know I asked about y'all Voyager lighting kit (thank you again for the information) but where can I get a lighting kit for this? I just need to finish getting this kit and the Voyager and put them together and then I'll be done. I'm putting together a diorama for a competition.
P.S.: I commented on this before but it's not meant as 'trolling', I just want things to be clear for you and, no less important, your viewers. As your video's are also, in part, 'instructional', I believe that should be clear. I have seen comments like "I looked up "SMD" but could not find the part.". It's like calling any ship from "TOS", "a TOS". The "D" in "SMD" is coincidental; you would also not say that "TOS" stands for "The Original Ship". :-) The model looks great, happy modelling!!
Hi, I ike your videos and they are very useful. You are a artist! I am 58 years old, I came back to modelling 3 years ago. I have some questions: What kind of circuit you choose for the flashing? What to type and brand paint your using for the base coat? To you use transparent paint for all the translucid windows, or just let de LED color it? Outstanding job! Phil
hi, your models are fantastic. I am planning on building this very model but I absolutely love your lighting kit. May I ask where you obtained it from, where I could get it from, is it a self build and if so do you have plans that I could follow. I would love to have a ship like this. I have built models for years but never to this standard. thank you for listening Gary
When you used the stripe masks on the deflector dish, after you removed them, did you paint the stripes or leave them clear? The lighting is looking awesome.
Boyd, the progress you've made on this is just spectacular, it looks amazing! Shame how overexposed the blue comes in thru the camera but I bet it looks great in person! The spinning effect is a nice touch, very creative. Question for you, would you ever consider making a one off version of this, possibly with some red bussards more akin to the prime universe and what was seen in TOS? A gold deflector would be awesome to see on that one, too ;)
Hi, I've only recently got in to modelling and your videos are and amazing source of info, extremely helpful! So a big thanks for that! I'm building the Revell 1/600 Enterprise NCC1701 (TOS version). I've lit the model and it's all glued together but not painted. I've watched lots of your videos but I don't think I've ever seen you mention how you mask windows before painting, and how long is it safe to leave the windows masked? Can you do multiple coats before removing them? Sorry for adding a comment to an old video, and thanks again for an excellent channel!
i wish that don at DON"S LIGHT AND MAGIC would make an upgrade parts kit for the into darkness enterprise model like he did for the refit enterprise models .
im planning to buy one t build...whats the total length of it?..away thought this enterprice is the best looking one..out of all the enterprise that was made..
Boyd, i´m just amateur, but i use pearl used in car paint. those are more cheap than mckensie, and you fund in every repair car shop, and have over 45 types big pearl small pearl and a lot of colours
lovely model work :-) 5:03 I for one don't consider the J.J Abrams "cannon", you could stick a third Nacelle on it for me lol ( just don't do it to a TMP Enterprise, that would be blasphemy) :-P
No need to look closely. The shape of the primary and sec hulls are obvious tributes to the sttmp refit and the nacelle supports were lifted from "1701D" but the nacelle shape looks like something from 1940s Flash Gordon! Very appropriate that Boyd is using taxidermy paints for the JJ Roadkill prize. LOL!! To each his own I guess but I'm not a fan. That said I can't wait to see the aztec paint applied. Just bcus I'm not crazy about the ship doesn't mean I'm not a fan of Boyds work!
Thank you for your reply, Boyd. However, I'm sorry for having 'tricked' you, but: "SMD "does NOT stand for "Surface Mounted Diode". "SMD" stands for "Surface-Mounted Device" as used in "SMT", "Surface-Mounted Technology". - In contrast to the older "through-hole technology" where components have "leads". - A "surface-mounted diode" exists, but a "diode" does not emit light. A "surface-mounted Light Emitting Diode", however, does. So, it's: "an SMD LED" or "a surface-mounted LED". ;-)
Nahhh lynchings too good for him! Haha!! OH and don't get me started on the uniforms or bridge! Ahhh look what ya made me do here! Ok...The TOS uniforms they're wearing are completely out of place in that movie...and the bridge with all that glass and 20 thousand watts of halogen lights looks like a unisex salon. The crew needs to be wearing sunglasses to keep from getting cataracts on that bridge! LOL!!
There are model makers, then master model makers makers & then, there is you- A Super Skilled Master Model Maker! I watch your work with awe! Superb workmanship.
Yes, my test spraying of the paint has left me very pleased! It looks awesome and really gives that rainbow prism effect. Perfect for the aztec panels of these ships.
Is that iridescent paint used all over? I noticed in your part one the first layer of paint looks like a much darker gray, closer to what the instructions tell you to paint, but this coat looks much "white-r"? did you do your own color mix for the base and then the iridescent for the aztec accents?
Its an evolution in design. The TOS ship and the Refit are my personal favorites but the new design appeals to a modern generation of Trek fans who I am sure will look back on it as their favorite as well.
Sounds like you got enough to stay busy so that's good. Excellent video as always. Love the way you explain so much in detail. Very helpful to a beginner modeler like myself. Appreciate your vids Sir.
Wow....another amazing piece Boyd!!
Ahh nothing like fresh JJPrise to make your day! I am looking forward to the big "projects" coming up Boyd
Looks great so far Boyd! Was glad you decided to build this one! Cannot wait to see it azteced up!
On this model I mounted a wood block inside it which was fastened in place with some 2 part epoxy. Very strong. The wood was drilled out to accept the rod but not go all the way through. A smaller hole allows the wiring to pass through it into the model. The model can pivot 360 and is held in place by gravity. In other cases I have used threaded rod and a lock nut on top and bottom to hold the model in place.
Looking good on the bussard lighting man! The Aztecs are going to fabulous.
Nice work. I like the effect on the impulse deck and the bussard collectors.
She's already looking beautiful, I can't wait to see her finished.
Hey Boyd. That's one beautiful looking ship. I love how your blues turned out, and it's coming along great. I can't stop looking at it. Very well done.
Well thank you very much! Would really like to see the works you guys are producing. Thanks for your service to our Country. Carry On :)
How you doing Mr Crompton, the soldiers and myself of the WTB Ft. Sam Houston would like to say your doing an outstanding job! This is one of the hobbies the soldiers here have picked up while waiting to complete there treatments. They have learned a great deal from your videos. Very professional and you don't stray of the task. We will send you some pictures of our models soon. "Keep up the Fire Sir".
SMD surface mounted diode. They are basically very tiny light emitting diodes.
I have been using these as of late as they will fit in very tight spots and put out a lot of light for their size.
Looking good Boyd, ordering the poly paints, that is an Awesome look
Really miss you Boyd.
Curious Hmmm, :) I'll be showing more on that in the next video which should be later tonight.
One day this will be considered 'retro'.
I really appreciate your time and effort in this . THIS IS GREAT . and I like this one better . it's a far more superior federation vessel .
Yes, this model requires quite a bit of seam repair work but that will seal up all of those leaks.
I just love it! Great vid. You might just make me like this ship design!
Awesome ship! I also like that you have the lighting coming from the piece leading to the impulse engines! QMX's Artisan Replica doesn't even have that lit!
The paint works great and looks sweet.
Some very nice ideas for sure: One thing however, you frequently say "If the lights were down you'd see the lighting effects much better...." You might flick the light switch on the wall once or twice, I'd wait a few seconds personally. Verbal descriptions never equal the shot, a pic being worth a thousand words & all. I know we'll likely see it at the end, but I want it ALL RIGHT NOW AAARRRGH! :-D Cheers and Thanks for posting.
Great job!
I STILL need to see the movie :(
But the model looks great. I really need to try and pick your brain sometime over the techniques you use to build, seam filling and sanding after painting for a start. But anyway, great build and another great video.
Thanks Dave, It looks a little plain right now but things will start looking really good when the aztec paint work begins on this one :)
You tube won't let us post links in the comments area. Look for Tenacontrols on the net.
Hi Boyd, Question do you spray a clear coat eg gloss or futures before you start laying the aztec masks. Also when you weather with a spray gun do you apply is straight on your finished paint surface or are you also applying a gloss and or dull coat first. Thanks for your help. Keep up the great work.
you guys are the best at star ships , I would love to see you do some star wars kits ( falcon ) etc.
I'll be building the Fine Molds 1:72 Falcon at some point here on the channel.
Will the process of puttying the seams eliminate the light leaks?
Looks great!
Awesome model I can not find this model I have looked at all hobby shops could not find
Wouldn't you normally do the aztecing in sections before gluing it all together? I thought that is how you do it.
Great work! What do you think of the design of this new Enterprise compared to the original series classic design?
Looks amazing!
Yes I do commission work. You can send me a PM here to talk about what you would like to have built.
What gauge wire are you using?
Hi Boyd.If/when you have the time can you say if you painted the clear bussard pieces as they seem to be a shade of blue before you fire up the lighting.Thanks for any pointers.
hi there, fantastic model am building one myself. the spine on the top of the saucer behind the bridge, how did you get light coming out of those? its not a clear part. did u cut them out and put clear pieces in? many thanks. joe
Sorry to bother you "again" but where do you get your brass rods and bases from?
Just had my kit delivered so looking forward top getting started on it sometime soon.
Hi I have this model in its box. Have you got instructions on how to put the lights in?
Really been enjoying your videos, I'm in awe at your models they are fantastic. I'm just beginner really, I've been building this model myself without lighting, step too far for me at the moment, but it's great to see what is possible. It's probably a boring topic but I noticed how much of your model you have built and how many clear parts you have painted before the main spraying, how are you masking all that stuff?! Keep up the good work.
What are "SMD's", Boyd?
I know I asked about y'all Voyager lighting kit (thank you again for the information) but where can I get a lighting kit for this? I just need to finish getting this kit and the Voyager and put them together and then I'll be done. I'm putting together a diorama for a competition.
if you study the design closely he took aspects of all the enterprises put them all in one ship
P.S.: I commented on this before but it's not meant as 'trolling', I just want things to be clear for you and, no less important, your viewers. As your video's are also, in part, 'instructional', I believe that should be clear. I have seen comments like "I looked up "SMD" but could not find the part.". It's like calling any ship from "TOS", "a TOS". The "D" in "SMD" is coincidental; you would also not say that "TOS" stands for "The Original Ship". :-)
The model looks great, happy modelling!!
Hi,
I ike your videos and they are very useful. You are a artist! I am 58 years old, I came back to modelling 3 years ago. I have some questions:
What kind of circuit you choose for the flashing?
What to type and brand paint your using for the base coat? To you use transparent paint for all the translucid windows, or just let de LED color it?
Outstanding job!
Phil
hi,
your models are fantastic. I am planning on building this very model but I absolutely love your lighting kit. May I ask where you obtained it from, where I could get it from, is it a self build and if so do you have plans that I could follow. I would love to have a ship like this. I have built models for years but never to this standard.
thank you for listening
Gary
Gary Train The blinking lights and spinning engines were done with a kit from Tenacontrols. The other lighting was done with LED strip lighting.
When you used the stripe masks on the deflector dish, after you removed them, did you paint the stripes or leave them clear?
The lighting is looking awesome.
Where can i get the kit to light this plz
Yes I am just wondering what the name is for those SMD's you are using?
Boyd, the progress you've made on this is just spectacular, it looks amazing! Shame how overexposed the blue comes in thru the camera but I bet it looks great in person! The spinning effect is a nice touch, very creative.
Question for you, would you ever consider making a one off version of this, possibly with some red bussards more akin to the prime universe and what was seen in TOS? A gold deflector would be awesome to see on that one, too ;)
that is soo cool!
Lookin good Boyd, though there is more paint on your hands than there is on the model. LOL
Hi,
I've only recently got in to modelling and your videos are and amazing source of info, extremely helpful! So a big thanks for that! I'm building the Revell 1/600 Enterprise NCC1701 (TOS version). I've lit the model and it's all glued together but not painted. I've watched lots of your videos but I don't think I've ever seen you mention how you mask windows before painting, and how long is it safe to leave the windows masked? Can you do multiple coats before removing them? Sorry for adding a comment to an old video, and thanks again for an excellent channel!
There are masking sets available for some of the Star Trek ships. You can leave them on through the whole painting process and remove them at the end.
Thanks! :)
i wish that don at DON"S LIGHT AND MAGIC would make an upgrade parts kit for the into darkness enterprise model like he did for the refit enterprise models .
im planning to buy one t build...whats the total length of it?..away thought this enterprice is the best looking one..out of all the enterprise that was made..
Joe Pinto The model in 1/500 scale is right around 20 inches long.
For the lighting kit, are you only using the Tenacontrols kit or are you combining it with another kit or your own work?
The Tenacontrols kit is just for the spinning engines and the blinking lights. The rest I did with LED strip lighting and some small LED's.
@@TrekWorks Okay thank you!
Boyd, i´m just amateur, but i use pearl used in car paint. those are more cheap than mckensie, and you fund in every repair car shop, and have over 45 types big pearl small pearl and a lot of colours
Still don't like this CARICATURE of the Enterprise but I do enjoy your work and it's coming out great!
lovely model work :-) 5:03 I for one don't consider the J.J Abrams "cannon", you could stick a third Nacelle on it for me lol ( just don't do it to a TMP Enterprise, that would be blasphemy) :-P
No need to look closely. The shape of the primary and sec hulls are obvious tributes to the sttmp refit and the nacelle supports were lifted from "1701D" but the nacelle shape looks like something from 1940s Flash Gordon! Very appropriate that Boyd is using taxidermy paints for the JJ Roadkill prize. LOL!! To each his own I guess but I'm not a fan. That said I can't wait to see the aztec paint applied. Just bcus I'm not crazy about the ship doesn't mean I'm not a fan of Boyds work!
Maybe one day :)
How can I get this starship? I've looked through every resource I could find.
If you live in Europe go to hobbycraft if you live in Australia like me go to ebay or in my case a comic store
I like !! I like !!! :D
Thank you for your reply, Boyd. However, I'm sorry for having 'tricked' you, but: "SMD "does NOT stand for "Surface Mounted Diode". "SMD" stands for "Surface-Mounted Device" as used in "SMT", "Surface-Mounted Technology". - In contrast to the older "through-hole technology" where components have "leads". - A "surface-mounted diode" exists, but a "diode" does not emit light. A "surface-mounted Light Emitting Diode", however, does. So, it's: "an SMD LED" or "a surface-mounted LED". ;-)
try createx pearlized they r awesome paint too
The JJ Enterprise looks like the original Enterprise with a thyroid problem.
Nahhh lynchings too good for him! Haha!! OH and don't get me started on the uniforms or bridge! Ahhh look what ya made me do here! Ok...The TOS uniforms they're wearing are completely out of place in that movie...and the bridge with all that glass and 20 thousand watts of halogen lights looks like a unisex salon. The crew needs to be wearing sunglasses to keep from getting cataracts on that bridge! LOL!!
PM me a price for one please!
You should paint stand in style of computer system Lcars from Star Trek movie (white, blue, green) because it's look quite ugly with this model.
lmao they change the uniforms every other show no one says a word, you change the ship and every ones ready to lynch the director