Very extremely nice video. What a treat. I was not aware that Sailrite carries this type of stuff and will certainly consider buying from you the next time I need some for a project. I have had very good luck using 1/2" thick structural fiberglass plate from McMaster Carr or even G-10 Garolite as a backer plate instead of stainless or (yuck) wood. Even G-10 is much easier to work with than stainless steel and can also be opoxied directly to the underside and even filleted around the outer edge to bond it tightly as a thickened structural integral section of the deck underneath. The same can be done on the top of the deck too, to add a "plinth" or raised section of the deck at the station base so the butyl tape never has to battle standing water at the through-bolts. If one is refinishing the deck or adding new grip texture compound it isn't hard to blend back in and cover up and protect the raw fiberglass from UV exposure.. If there is a core in the deck then it is best that a hole saw is used (drill-fill-drill) to remove the core at each bolthole and then be filled back in with thickened epoxy so it protects the rest of the core from water intrusion. These added pillars of thickened epoxy around the bolt holes resists compression of the deck and any movement of the bolts since they can be tightened much tighter. Adding a plinth on the top hides the filled-in holes and if properly prepped will tie in structurally to the deck with great strength as it is all one stretch of fiberglass to spread out the force. This technique is especially good for mounting cleats too, since it creates a solid unit tie in to the deck. G-10 on the undersides would certainly be as strong as stainless if large washers are used on the bottom. You could tie your anchor bridle to cleats mounted in such a way knowing the whole deck would pull off the hull before the cleats pulled out.
Countersinking the holes is the right way to go, but better to avoid turning the screws when installing to avoid dislodging the butel tape from the screw thread, so destroying the seal. Rather, use tightening the nut below deck to pull the screw down and through, then you just compress the butel rather than risk moving it (... likely need someone on deck to stop the screw from turning). BUT FIRST, before the final fit, dry-fit (no butel) the screws to check the fit: if any are too tight (or slightly off as you had it), work the hole bigger just enough so you don't need to turn the screw for it to be installed, and only then add the butel for the final fit.
Wonderful video. I think it is great to see a video getting into boat refit. What is the fabric that you have on the ceiling of the v-berth? Is it there for insulation, or aesthetics? The only addition I would suggest on the video is to keep the cap on while drilling the hole at the top of the stanchion and go a bit deeper into the cap. Then with a blind tap, tap stancion and the cap so the set screw can be secured with the set screw as the cap will need to take quite a bit of load from the life lines. Sometimes the lifelines are being pulled up while maneuvering around the boat.
Thanks for posting, question on drilling the deck, I have seen others drill larger holes and fill with epoxy and then drill their holes in the epoxy to help stop rot with water to wood contact. Any reason not to do that?
Yes, drill-fill-drill should always be done unless there is no core there, which may be the case here. Sometimes decks do not have any core at the far edges where the stanchions mount depending on the design of the deck-hull joint for added strength where they meet and connect.
@@svbarryduckworth628 There is raw timber under those plates, especially noticeable on the second one. I would have drilled and filled first to try and protect that timber from any water ingress, as well as to allow for further tightening of the bolts for strength and improved seal... as per your earlier post.
@@dinsdalepiranah8759 …was a bit surprised they didn’t replace a good chunk of the wood and then fiberglass over it to waterproof and strengthen the whole area.
@@dinsdalepiranah8759 I got very uncomfortable when I saw that. I just had a lot of damage with wood rot due to poorly installed stanchions. I basically have to redo all of them, and in many cases, I have about an A4 size marine ply to replace, and in two cases parts of the beams that is supposed to support the ply.
En castellano tengo un negocio en Argentina. Y fabrico en lonascon menos recursos que udes pero somos muy buenos los lonas salen sin arrugas trayectoria de 40 años con yugos cualquiera es brujos
It seems that you haven't done this before as you make too many rookie mistakes. Perhaps in similar case it would be prudent to avoid posting "how to" video. P.S. these hairline gelcoat cracks around the stanchion base need to be sorted out.
I believe it is useful to make how-to videos at any level of skill. I don't see any issues with this video, and they are open to showing mistakes that help the viewer not make the same mistakes. You don't know what you don't know but this is a great way to learn. I would love to see a video on your channel where you show every perfect method. I don't think I would learn as much with that type of video.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Very extremely nice video. What a treat. I was not aware that Sailrite carries this type of stuff and will certainly consider buying from you the next time I need some for a project.
I have had very good luck using 1/2" thick structural fiberglass plate from McMaster Carr or even G-10 Garolite as a backer plate instead of stainless or (yuck) wood. Even G-10 is much easier to work with than stainless steel and can also be opoxied directly to the underside and even filleted around the outer edge to bond it tightly as a thickened structural integral section of the deck underneath.
The same can be done on the top of the deck too, to add a "plinth" or raised section of the deck at the station base so the butyl tape never has to battle standing water at the through-bolts. If one is refinishing the deck or adding new grip texture compound it isn't hard to blend back in and cover up and protect the raw fiberglass from UV exposure..
If there is a core in the deck then it is best that a hole saw is used (drill-fill-drill) to remove the core at each bolthole and then be filled back in with thickened epoxy so it protects the rest of the core from water intrusion. These added pillars of thickened epoxy around the bolt holes resists compression of the deck and any movement of the bolts since they can be tightened much tighter. Adding a plinth on the top hides the filled-in holes and if properly prepped will tie in structurally to the deck with great strength as it is all one stretch of fiberglass to spread out the force.
This technique is especially good for mounting cleats too, since it creates a solid unit tie in to the deck. G-10 on the undersides would certainly be as strong as stainless if large washers are used on the bottom. You could tie your anchor bridle to cleats mounted in such a way knowing the whole deck would pull off the hull before the cleats pulled out.
Countersinking the holes is the right way to go, but better to avoid turning the screws when installing to avoid dislodging the butel tape from the screw thread, so destroying the seal. Rather, use tightening the nut below deck to pull the screw down and through, then you just compress the butel rather than risk moving it (... likely need someone on deck to stop the screw from turning). BUT FIRST, before the final fit, dry-fit (no butel) the screws to check the fit: if any are too tight (or slightly off as you had it), work the hole bigger just enough so you don't need to turn the screw for it to be installed, and only then add the butel for the final fit.
Wonderful video. I think it is great to see a video getting into boat refit.
What is the fabric that you have on the ceiling of the v-berth? Is it there for insulation, or aesthetics?
The only addition I would suggest on the video is to keep the cap on while drilling the hole at the top of the stanchion and go a bit deeper into the cap. Then with a blind tap, tap stancion and the cap so the set screw can be secured with the set screw as the cap will need to take quite a bit of load from the life lines. Sometimes the lifelines are being pulled up while maneuvering around the boat.
Great video. But aint no way im using phillips/cross screws bolts unless there is a gun to my head lol
Thanks for posting, question on drilling the deck, I have seen others drill larger holes and fill with epoxy and then drill their holes in the epoxy to help stop rot with water to wood contact. Any reason not to do that?
Yes, drill-fill-drill should always be done unless there is no core there, which may be the case here. Sometimes decks do not have any core at the far edges where the stanchions mount depending on the design of the deck-hull joint for added strength where they meet and connect.
@@svbarryduckworth628 There is raw timber under those plates, especially noticeable on the second one. I would have drilled and filled first to try and protect that timber from any water ingress, as well as to allow for further tightening of the bolts for strength and improved seal... as per your earlier post.
@@dinsdalepiranah8759 …was a bit surprised they didn’t replace a good chunk of the wood and then fiberglass over it to waterproof and strengthen the whole area.
@@dinsdalepiranah8759 I got very uncomfortable when I saw that. I just had a lot of damage with wood rot due to poorly installed stanchions. I basically have to redo all of them, and in many cases, I have about an A4 size marine ply to replace, and in two cases parts of the beams that is supposed to support the ply.
En castellano tengo un negocio en Argentina. Y fabrico en lonascon menos recursos que udes pero somos muy buenos los lonas salen sin arrugas trayectoria de 40 años con yugos cualquiera es brujos
It seems that you haven't done this before as you make too many rookie mistakes.
Perhaps in similar case it would be prudent to avoid posting "how to" video.
P.S. these hairline gelcoat cracks around the stanchion base need to be sorted out.
I believe it is useful to make how-to videos at any level of skill. I don't see any issues with this video, and they are open to showing mistakes that help the viewer not make the same mistakes. You don't know what you don't know but this is a great way to learn. I would love to see a video on your channel where you show every perfect method. I don't think I would learn as much with that type of video.